Alcatraz5768

Spraying the inside

Recommended Posts

I am going to paint the inside of the boat, from quarter berths to main bulkhead. I will have a big fan set up blowing through the cockpit sole locker, entering the cabin through the ends of the quarter berths, and set up a filter panel on the door through the main bulkhead. 

My paint supplier has told me that the epoxy undercoat can be sprayed directly over (no sanding) up to 72 hrs after application, so the plan is to mask everything, spray the undercoat, spot fill and spot prime, then spray the top coat which will be satin white.

2 compressors, one for paint and one for the forced air respirator. 

 

What have i forgotton?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A regular compressor for your respirator?  Hopefully you have one meant for this purpose..

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have use an airless with Pettit Cabin ez paint on a few different boats. primer in the paint. mask once, spray and done. if you use epoxy primer don't let the primer set up on the masking tape, it will be hell to get off. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks and thanks. I might mask with 2 layers at the edges, primer then peel the first, then top coat. I like the look of the petit product but can't get it here. I also like the longevity of a good 2 pack finish. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only thing I'd add if you're double taping is to offset your primer tape a hair past the finish tape so the finish paint will roll that edge and not leave a nasty primer coloured line around your nice work. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thought.  Don't paint the inside pink.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, southerncross said:

One thought.  Don't paint the inside pink.

Aren't the best things in life though?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, jgbrown said:

Only thing I'd add if you're double taping is to offset your primer tape a hair past the finish tape so the finish paint will roll that edge and not leave a nasty primer coloured line around your nice work. 

Good idea. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, southerncross said:

One thought.  Don't paint the inside pink.

Satin white with some carbon bits. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Satin white with some carbon bits. 

Carbon tits?!!?? Oh no, misread that, sorry. We need pictures, before and after.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, casc27 said:

Carbon tits?!!?? Oh no, misread that, sorry. We need pictures, before and after.

I wonder if I still have pictures of the mannequin with fiberglass ones someone made at the yard I started in

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, jgbrown said:

I wonder if I still have pictures of the mannequin with fiberglass ones someone made at the yard I started in

I actually meant pics of Alcatraz's interior (the boat's, not the owner's!) but what the hell some fiberglass tits seem appropriate around here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never sprayed in an enclosed space like a cabin, only rolled and tipped but if I did a whole interior again would definitely spray. Its all been done before, anyone that paints professionally has the gear/skills so I'd be asking any car painter mates for tips.  Just make sure that youve got a good helmet and air supply, two pot isnt the best for you

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quit complaining and just close your eyes and hold your breath. Piece of cake!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And yet you still didn't learn why God created paint brushes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just finished doing our interior w/Brightside one part, with 3:1 mix of flattening agent for a satin finish. We brushed tight spaces, rolled and tipped the open areas. Really hard to tell from sprayed, the stuff lays down really well. There's also a brushing agent that will further enhance the flow.  Spraying inside a boat sounds like a deathwish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, voodoochile said:

Just finished doing our interior w/Brightside one part, with 3:1 mix of flattening agent for a satin finish. We brushed tight spaces, rolled and tipped the open areas. Really hard to tell from sprayed, the stuff lays down really well. There's also a brushing agent that will further enhance the flow.  Spraying inside a boat sounds like a deathwish.

i'm quite open to that idea.  easy to touch up also. pics please. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dont think we can get Brightside, its all Toplac. Awesome paint, obviously its not 2 pot but miles ahead of any other single pack. High gloss, levels out nicely and looks like a spray job if you get the reducer right. Totally rate it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know everyone else is thinking it, so I ask it.

I've never heard of anyone spraying any top coat over epoxy primer without sanding. The 72 hour window would only help if it was an epoxy paint, which in theory would chemically bond with the primer. 72 hours is a hell of a longtime to expect a green spray finish. Wet System would say nah with their straight epoxy.

The reason why we spray is for better finish. Otherwise rolling and tipping gives excellent results. That is in ideal spray conditions like a hull. You are in a tight enclosed space. The overspray will be hard to control.

Spraying primer never gives an ideal base coat. What about orange peel, runs, dust, overspray. 

The whole plan makes no sense. Brush roll and tip the primer. Fill and sand out the defects. brush and roll the interior. Once again its the interior of a boat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Gutterblack said:

Dont think we can get Brightside, its all Toplac. Awesome paint, obviously its not 2 pot but miles ahead of any other single pack. High gloss, levels out nicely and looks like a spray job if you get the reducer right. Totally rate it.

I believe Toplac is Brightside.  Toplac was renamed Brightside (at least in NA) quite a few years go.  I assume Interlux retained the Toplac name in Australia and the like.  Similarly Interthane was renamed Perfection.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Toplace, at least in Oz, is supposed to have a silicone additive, the local Brightside didn't, at the time. Both go on very easily with just a splash of thinner.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

i'm quite open to that idea.  easy to touch up also. pics please. 

My broker took some interior pics last weekend, I'll post as soon as I get them.  Interior shots aren't always easy to see. As I mentioned earlier, we used a satin finish which is much more forgiving that gloss.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not just more forgiving, way better looking. Semi-gloss or satin paint in a boat is the only way to go IMO. Full gloss creates glare, highlights every defect and in white looks cold and institutional.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've just finished doing some tests on flattened, softened Toplac for interiors. To my eye, 15g/l of flattener and 2% Cream added to Toplac White looks great! 

We'll see how it looks on the boat.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/12/2018 at 11:50 AM, CaptainAhab said:

I know everyone else is thinking it, so I ask it.

I've never heard of anyone spraying any top coat over epoxy primer without sanding. The 72 hour window would only help if it was an epoxy paint, which in theory would chemically bond with the primer. 72 hours is a hell of a longtime to expect a green spray finish. Wet System would say nah with their straight epoxy.

The reason why we spray is for better finish. Otherwise rolling and tipping gives excellent results. That is in ideal spray conditions like a hull. You are in a tight enclosed space. The overspray will be hard to control.

Spraying primer never gives an ideal base coat. What about orange peel, runs, dust, overspray. 

The whole plan makes no sense. Brush roll and tip the primer. Fill and sand out the defects. brush and roll the interior. Once again its the interior of a boat.

I understand all this, my reasoning for this way of doing it was simply to save time. I have to trust my paint supplier on the recoat time, so it's a case of going in there, firing a light undercoat over most of it (quarter berths, lockers, under the side decks etc) for adhesion reasons, and a heavier coat over the main saloon panels. Sand these and spot fill, then suit up again and squirt a top coat on. Satin white. 

I really don't care if there is a rough patch or a run under the side decks, or in rhe quarter berth, but it means I can hopefully get the whole lot painted over Easter. Brushing and rolling the whole interior, then having to sand between multiple coats will take forever, and be a ball ache. 

Remember this isn't a glass boat, there are stringers every 6" 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One other thought: If your fan is ignition proof, I would run the other way,  suck through your filter and out the fan.  Build a box out of filters for better filtration and seal to the intake side of the fan(5 sides mean slower moving air, more time for paint to drop/stick).    Another filter on the intake(no fan)(just the cheap loose mesh electrostatic ones work fine for this) box it as well, same thing, low flow = better painting.  This way you are sucking air in any little gaps as well anywhere instead of blowing paint out.   Not sure how much your boat is put together at the moment, but paint blowing out around ports seals or unexpected places is irritating and if there's an air gap it can get under masking tape etc. Can you guess how I learned that one :P(If you guessed by spending hundreds of dollars and lots of cursing because somebody who knew better fucked up you are correct!) If it's just a shell at the moment then no need to worry.  Definitely filter both ends either way.  Nothing worse than a bunch of crap blowing in your nice new paint.  

I wouldn't mess about with a brush and roller on a job like this either.   Pick away masking as you have time to prep, no rush.  Then shoot in one go, pull your first masking stripe and GTFO.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good idea for it to be in vacuum rather than under pressure. I hadn't thought of the overspray finding its way out. Thanx. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I trust you will be using an HVLP gun to minimize the cloud of overspray?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Probably, because it's a satin finish, however because I'm just a hack I find I always get a better finish with my old vacuum type gun. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IME, epoxy primer is more toxic and has longer offgas period than LPU. Supplied air to a full face mask with tearoff shields, check your filters often. Knock on LPU with hvlp is poor aerosolization at low pressure so less flow out, if you go satin then who cares, no DOI. Way better overspray wise so pays for itself, guys have used cheap heated hvlp guns to good effect. Actually epoxy primer is a good coating by itself in non cosmetic areas. As its a plywood boat (I think) why not use a softer less toxic paint? Chemical overcoat window is fine, usually scuff sand to improve adhesion and knock down texture for better finish but not necessary in window, watch temps for the period.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Water based 2 component  polyurethane  works  well with a cheap  big  box store  household airless sprayer. .......

And it not so toxic 

both primer and topcoat.

the topcoat is semigloss 

 

 sysyem three is one supplier...others are a ailable 

https://www.systemthree.com/products/wr-lpu-polyurethane-topcoat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just searching for the petit ez cabin paint but can't get it here. I was looking and it looks similar to Zinsser perma-white, self priming, waterbased single pot anti fungal paint. 

It would be easy to go through, squirt on a couple of coats and be done. Easy to touch up, recoat etc. 

anyone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Just searching for the petit ez cabin paint but can't get it here. I was looking and it looks similar to Zinsser perma-white, self priming, waterbased single pot anti fungal paint. 

It would be easy to go through, squirt on a couple of coats and be done. Easy to touch up, recoat etc. 

anyone?

I did my own boat's cabin way back before I had a shop with Zinsser anti-fungal paint IIRC(could also have been a Cloverdale(a local paint chain) house brand, memory is a bit foggy) after reading about people having success with it on boats.    Was expensive(for what it was) supposedly for high traffic bathrooms, supposed to be bomb proof some sort of new technology, a water based alkyd hybrid or something. Boat was sanded, washed and rinsed and totally clean.  I had my humidity and temp dead center (within 5% humidity and 2 degrees) of recommended range for a week before painting, bilges bone dry as well.    Laid down beautifully, looked great for a couple hours and then... the fucking shit fucking bubbled up thousands of tiny bubbles everywhere!   They offered me a free can to make up for it.   Sales rep swore up and down it was great, ideally suited to a boat when he was selling me on the idea, then refused to even come look after it had a problem.  He said said warranty was for a free can, take it or leave it as it was out of recommended use and it was probably an issue with using it over fiberglass(same rep).  When I called his manager about it the story changed and they said instead there was a bad batch that was missing it's anti-foaming additives, that it was being recalled, and they'd give me two cans instead.    Just thinking about it now pisses me off and that was a long time ago.     So might work great, might not, I wouldn't do it again given the time involved vs the cost of paint.  

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, jgbrown said:

 So might work great, might not, I wouldn't do it again given the time involved vs the cost of paint. 

Use a paint that you know, and which you know works. Don't do experiments on the finished product!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
56 minutes ago, Fleetwood said:

Use a paint that you know, and which you know works. Don't do experiments on the finished product!

Exactly.   Just imagine looking back in a decade and still being pissed about the paint after you sell the boat.  :lol:  not worth saving a couple hundred dollars.  A good tough cleanable surface on top of all that work you did is worth a lot, and it's much easier to get results from a supplier when you are using the product for intended use, plus if you have a problem they'll probably have seen it before and are more likely to help out.  I had a problem with one paint couple months ago that had a problem, within 24 hours they'd determined the supplier had sold expired product with a price tag over the date(naughty...).  
As an alternative do you have Hempalin paint available where you are?  It's a 1 part paint, not too expensive.   I just shot a little racing powerboat with it the other day(customer supplied it, I've never used it before) and I was quite happy how it sprayed and the scratch resistance.  Supplier said sales rep told them you could thin it with mineral spirits for spraying to save a few bucks but it did funky stuff on a couple oz test batch and seemed to slow the cure time, xylene+benzene thinner worked much better and was a close match to the MSDS for the branded one.    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to the 2k finish. My painter mate told me essentially the same thing, use the stuff that you know works, he still declined my offer for him to show me how it's done. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Back to the 2k finish. My painter mate told me essentially the same thing, use the stuff that you know works, he still declined my offer for him to show me how it's done. 

This is true .  For exterior surfaces I only use awlgrip...because I know it . 

but...professionally,  yacht painters are using water based 2 components on interior surfaces.

http://www.alexseal.com/interior/topcoats/waterborne-topcoat

 

the only complaint I hear is that its difficult to control " wet edge " cure time . Proper  substrate temp and humidity is important 

i recently renewed  interior varnish surfaces , semi gloss.  Floors, counter tops, bulkhead......I used Epifanes water based varnish .  Roll and tip....Very nice to use and it produced a  hard surface. 

https://www.epifanes.nl/uk/the-epifanes-range-of-paints-amp-varnishes/yachting/clear-finishes/epifanes-rubbed-effect-low-voc-58

 

keep your eyes open, ask around ..... and see what the pro painters are using in your area.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Back to the 2k finish. My painter mate told me essentially the same thing, use the stuff that you know works, he still declined my offer for him to show me how it's done. 

Did you offer to hand him a nice stack of dollars in exchange for getting to show you :p? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not paying that lazy motherfucker anything. Ps I've hung with him for about 25years now, we help each other with lots of stuff, but not this apparently. 

I think it's time to go back to the original plan, I know the products and trust the supplier. It's not worth the gamble on such a big and arkward surface. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I'm not paying that lazy motherfucker anything. Ps I've hung with him for about 25years now, we help each other with lots of stuff, but not this apparently. 

I think it's time to go back to the original plan, I know the products and trust the supplier. It's not worth the gamble on such a big and arkward surface. 

I was half teasing.  It sounds like he wants to stay friends with you :P  I think that is an excellent plan!  Good supplier support, good material, good choice.   

Working on friends projects:

 -Do it right with the right materials,right tools and charge em because it's a real job, then you're an asshole for charging them. 

-Do it with the cheap crap they're trying to use, and the corners they want to cut because you're doing it free, then you're an asshole when it doesn't last/look like the proper job. 

-Give em pointers and a gentle warning about the risks with their cheap version, try to try to manage expectations, then you're an asshole at the end cause you didn't tell them so bluntly not to do it. 

-Tell em bluntly not to do it, then you're a fussy asshole who is stuck in his ways and doesn't understand there's a great new cheap way to do things.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is possibly an easy answer to this outside my sphere of knowledge, but apart from weight and cost implications, wouldn't "Flowcoat" sprayed or brushed, be a superior solution to 2k paint in the longevity, durability, sealing and looks department?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/21/2018 at 1:24 PM, jgbrown said:

I was half teasing.  It sounds like he wants to stay friends with you :P  I think that is an excellent plan!  Good supplier support, good material, good choice.   

Working on friends projects:

 -Do it right with the right materials,right tools and charge em because it's a real job, then you're an asshole for charging them. 

-Do it with the cheap crap they're trying to use, and the corners they want to cut because you're doing it free, then you're an asshole when it doesn't last/look like the proper job. 

-Give em pointers and a gentle warning about the risks with their cheap version, try to try to manage expectations, then you're an asshole at the end cause you didn't tell them so bluntly not to do it. 

-Tell em bluntly not to do it, then you're a fussy asshole who is stuck in his ways and doesn't understand there's a great new cheap way to do things.  

 

+1

Even though my tri isn't long it has a lot of area, I broke down painting the freeboard and deck into 3 or 4 phases, much more tractable for a solo act.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

painting the outside is easy, the inside freaks me out. My main drama is deciding what standard im working to. I was taught to only be happy with a superyacht finish, however i still want to sail the thing one day, so ive got to cut a few corners, and i get a bit goosed finding the compromise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 27/03/2018 at 4:39 PM, Alcatraz5768 said:

Sure would, on a glass boat. Mines old school timber though. 

Alc I have used Flowcoat over primed marine ply in wet areas and it has worked well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

painting the outside is easy, the inside freaks me out. My main drama is deciding what standard im working to. I was taught to only be happy with a superyacht finish, however i still want to sail the thing one day, so ive got to cut a few corners, and i get a bit goosed finding the compromise.

Are you spraying the head compartment or any smaller area that has a break in the paint between it and the rest of the boat?  Or have a little project you feel like spraying(wife with some ugly chest of drawers sitting around the house somewhere? lol).

It's a little more work, but a good way to check you've got everything dialed in.   Spray the head or whatever small section is separated with a break in the paint line.  Go away and come back in a couple days, if you like it and everything went well proceed.  If not, adjust standards, and continue.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good idea. I can make a break point at the main bulkhead. Paint the quarter berths and engine box first, if no dramas keep going, if it's not working, stop and sort it out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will need to evacuate all the  overspray mist from the interior .  It will be a cloud of mist .

we use a powerful blower.    The intake pipe is rigid   ducting and located close to your work zone .

The exhaust pipe is a long  piece of poly flat ducting 

this poly discharge ducting  must be long so it can blow the overspray mist away from the exterior of your boat and onto the decks  or topsides of your neighbors boat 

a simple heating system type filter  is fit to  the discharge end to knock down the mist before discharging onto the neighbors  boat 

you may wish to also filter incoming air at a hatch. 

IMG_8433.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanx slug, plan is to have outgoing air out through the saildrive hole. The openings in the engine box will be covered with a foam stuff that my mate uses in his spray booth.Air will enter through the fwd and cockpit sole hatch through cheesecloth "filters". I was just going to make a pool under the boat with water in it to catch any overspray that gets through the filters but i like the duct idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/17/2018 at 3:06 AM, Alcatraz5768 said:

Good idea for it to be in vacuum rather than under pressure. I hadn't thought of the overspray finding its way out. Thanx. 

The really important qualifier being jgbrown's "...If your fan is ignition proof." You don't really want to be pulling atomized petroleum distillates thru a sparking exhaust fan motor.  Leave a smoking crater where the boatyard used to be.

I spray coatings nearly every day of my life, but it's brushes and rollers for me on the interior. Would never even consider shooting pigmented inside a boat. Lots of complicated suck for little upside. But that's just me.:)

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/1/2018 at 5:00 AM, Diarmuid said:

The really important qualifier being jgbrown's "...If your fan is ignition proof." You don't really want to be pulling atomized petroleum distillates thru a sparking exhaust fan motor.  Leave a smoking crater where the boatyard used to be.

I spray coatings nearly every day of my life, but it's brushes and rollers for me on the interior. Would never even consider shooting pigmented inside a boat. Lots of complicated suck for little upside. But that's just me.:)

 

 

All well and good, and I would roll and brush if it were a glass boat, however it is timber and has stringers every 6" including under the deck. Rolling and brushing would suck and take forever. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For cheap flexible ducting, hunters and fishers use a continuous clear bag for vacuum sealing game.  

Works a treat for exhaust.  I even pulled the diffuser grills in my heating system and ran tubes of it from ceiling to 6' off the floor.  Cut my heating costs significantly, and reduced temperature gradient in the shop a lot.   Just brushes over boats on the move. 

 

If you go flexible, Cut a slit about 2" long at the far end, overlap the cit edges and tape. Making a small reduction in diameter pressurizes the tube and stops it flailing around and making a racket or spraying mist where you don't want.  I'd go farther, just out the bottom could get messy.  

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last thing, many tool rental places have ignition protected fans for liability.  100$ for a week and no crater is a good deal.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

remember im sucking the air through booth filters before it sees the fan of the pool.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

remember im sucking the air through booth filters before it sees the fan of the pool.

Yeah, it's almost certainly fine.  But for 5$ worth of plastic, I might go a little farther just in case.   The bag as a duct trick is very handy.  I use one of these with it:

www.seci.com/Aerospace_Mighty_Mite_negative_air_machine_p/9180.htm

and the 5$ bag has lasted several years.  On a side note these fans are fucking amazing.  1800CFM, quiet and double as a work table/step to boot.  Their filters are very good as well, but I still find some evidence of stuff getting through after a day of grinding.  

I got mine for free with a broken switch, don't know if they're worth a grand but they do work great.   They also make me think that other companies overstate the cfm ratings.   Side by side with a 2000CFM regular blower it seems to be moving a massive amount of air in comparison, the biggest problem is making sure to vent the tent enough it doesn't collapse it.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks like cool kit, however im hoping to use this once and never have to go through this again, so im not going to spend a fortune in setup stuff. I may well duct the outlet further away though, no harm in that at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

That looks like cool kit, however im hoping to use this once and never have to go through this again, so im not going to spend a fortune in setup stuff. I may well duct the outlet further away though, no harm in that at all.

For one time I'd just find a rental place close with a ignition proof one if you don't own one.   Better theirs than yours :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cool way to die though, an enormous fireball leaving a crater. Better than just petering out when im to old to even realise im dying

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah - along with the spectacular exit you don't even leave your heirs the problem of disposing of your boat. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting closer. Spent a whole day masking and not all done yet. A whole fucking day.

Got the kids in there the other day to vacuum it out and clean it. They did a good job, started with a petrol powered weed blower. Funny little fuckers.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sprayed the undercoat. It wasnt to bad, the fan system worked a treat. Lots of runs, cause im a bit shit. ill run a sander over the worst bits and squirt on the top coat early next week. Feels like progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You'll get pics after the top coat. I'm a bit embarrassed by the finish of the primer. I started off with a too big tip, then i thinned it to much etc. generally a fuck up, but nothing that can't be sanded out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just squirted the topcoat. So far so good, fingers crossed, but it looks pretty good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

You'll get pics after the top coat. I'm a bit embarrassed by the finish of the primer. I started off with a too big tip, then i thinned it to much etc. generally a fuck up,  a great learning experience. but nothing that can't be sanded out. 

Can't wait to see pics!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Having the extractor fans howling was great. No mist of overspray at all. Def went better today, paint sprayed super easy, covered really well. Better result than I thought given the corner cutting with the prep. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now