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rch701

Swage Stops

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I am running a second hand Etchells 22 jib on my H-boat 27 and it is a few inches longer on the luff than my boat's halyard was setup for. My halyard is wire to rope with a swage barrel stop that catches on a track with a magic block setup for luff tension adjusting. Since my jib is taller the stop no longer lands on the track. I am not super familiar with swages. Can you come after the fact with a stop and crimp it on the cable? Or should I cut off the end of the cable and shorten it?

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  All stop sleeves are sized to the wire - so to add/change you have to have a bare end to slide the stop on. Then you need to re-make the end of the wire. So in practice it consumes a lot of cable length.

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Convert to all rope halyard which is better in all ways, install clutch/cam/cleat on mast or in cockpit.

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6 hours ago, cdodge581 said:

Convert to all rope halyard which is better in all ways, install clutch/cam/cleat on mast or in cockpit.

Why? The halyard lock/ ball set up is great on small boats it’s easy and constant at the leeward mark. 

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Wire beats up masts, sheaves, and gets fishhooks. If and when he changes the sail the ball(s) will be in the wrong place again. There is no way to capture the wire until it is on the shank ball. With a rope halyard it can run through a cam during hoist to capture progress if the sail comes into pressure during rounding. Also rope will be an easier diy. Could be used as halyard for any sail in emergency and gives you the option to run other sized headsails with full luff tension adjustment.

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2 hours ago, cdodge581 said:

Wire beats up masts, sheaves, and gets fishhooks. If and when he changes the sail the ball(s) will be in the wrong place again. There is no way to capture the wire until it is on the shank ball. With a rope halyard it can run through a cam during hoist to capture progress if the sail comes into pressure during rounding. Also rope will be an easier diy. Could be used as halyard for any sail in emergency and gives you the option to run other sized headsails with full luff tension adjustment.

We switched back to wire and run a spectra pennant on our jibs. The repeat ability is outstanding. A halyard lock with a jib Cunningham ensures the jib sheet leed is perfect every time. 

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IMR - do you convert your cars to carburetors and bias ply tires as well?

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6 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

IMR - do you convert your cars to carburetors and bias ply tires as well?

I do have bias ply tires and a carburetor on my 1969 fj40. Works perfectly for rock clawing.  Right tool for the right job. 

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Cut the old swage stop off the wire with a Dremel, clean up the wire end if necessary, put a new one where you want it (and maybe another one where you MIGHT want it), and put a new one on the very end to preserve the wire length. It’ll cost, what, $6 in swage stops?

I put a cheap used old eBay wire reel on my mast a couple of years ago with an Amsteel halyard for the roller furling Genoa. Works a treat. I barely touch it ever once the genny is up for the season and the halyard is completely out of the way of the mast or cockpit.

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I currently have wire to rope on everything. Main, jib, spin, and spin topping lift. As I replace the aging wire I will likely go back with a low stretch line and stoppers. For now the only real path forward is to cut the wire end off and remake the loop and jib clip. This will shorten the halyard about 6". If my existing stopper is too short than I can add a shackle or two to make up the extra length if not just a loop of 1/4" line. Thanks for the help!

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11 hours ago, rch701 said:

I currently have wire to rope on everything. Main, jib, spin, and spin topping lift. As I replace the aging wire I will likely go back with a low stretch line and stoppers. For now the only real path forward is to cut the wire end off and remake the loop and jib clip. This will shorten the halyard about 6". If my existing stopper is too short than I can add a shackle or two to make up the extra length if not just a loop of 1/4" line. Thanks for the help!

if you need to make up a strop - try a length of dyneema with a fixed eye splice at one end and an adjustable eye splice* in the other. 

These are surprisingly stable and will let you tweak the length of the strop.

 

* - a simple tucked splice with the tail exiting after the bury so you can adjust it.

 

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