Rasputin22

Surf Anarchy

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I know we have a Kitesurfing Anarchy but why not one for surfing in general and SUP since SUP is growing so fast.

     Just for the hell of it I'll start with this!

 

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When she does it in 4" stilettos - then I'll be impressed. :D

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33 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

When she does it in 4" stilettos - then I'll be impressed. :D

This is more your speed

lena-dunham-080215-3.jpg

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image.thumb.png.9deb8da457de79d57c1486b07fbbb15f.png

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ab0f30c866cfa4977466326e812c888c--bethan

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1 hour ago, Rasputin22 said:

I know we have a Kitesurfing Anarchy but why not one for surfing in general and SUP since SUP is growing so fast.

     Just for the hell of it I'll start with this!

 

Way to screw up a perfectly good board....heels? On fiberglass??!!! But I'll acknowledge.......it is pretty classy looking.................

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Someone say surfing an SUP.................soon as my hips get better post operatively, I'll be back at it. I aspire to be this good.....................turn up the speakers and enjoy............

 

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theoriginalwindsurfer2.jpg

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So for those of you who are kite surfers........is there much impact loading on the hips/knees? I'm seriously considering giving it a try but I'm supposed to avoid impact loads on the new artificial hips so no more tennis or snow skiing etc. I can still SUP surf but that kite surfing looks fun. I have zero upper body injuries/problems.......well.....not zero but nothing I can't manage. :lol:

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26 minutes ago, Point Break said:

So for those of you who are kite surfers........is there much impact loading on the hips/knees? I'm seriously considering giving it a try but I'm supposed to avoid impact loads on the new artificial hips so no more tennis or snow skiing etc. I can still SUP surf but that kite surfing looks fun. I have zero upper body injuries/problems.......well.....not zero but nothing I can't manage. :lol:

PB,

     Would this impact load you hips/knees?

 

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Maybe one of you Surf Nazi's can answer a question I have long wondered about (I've never lived within 150 miles of surfing waves).

I was told once that when you are "in the tube" of a big wave that the world goes quite silent.

True?

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1 hour ago, VWAP said:

This is more your speed

lena-dunham-080215-3.jpg

My wife is looking for you.

I'd be afraid, I'd be very afraid.

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1 hour ago, Rasputin22 said:

PB,

     Would this impact load you hips/knees?

 

Actually, I don't think so. My experience with wipeouts is that not much in the way of impact loading on any joint happens. I experienced torsional loads and those can be a problem as well, so I'd have to be mindful of that when I fall....that is something you can control or minimize by body position during the fall. Besides...............I am long past my triple or double overhead days.............WAY PAST. I'm thinking I'm probably in the chest high limit age group now....and have been for a while. Frankly, here on the So Cal coast waist high days are good days and chest high days are less frequent. Overhead days are rare and easy to skip. Those are the days I bodysurf. B)

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18 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

Maybe one of you Surf Nazi's can answer a question I have long wondered about (I've never lived within 150 miles of surfing waves).

I was told once that when you are "in the tube" of a big wave that the world goes quite silent.

True?

Well..............not having ever been in a true "standup tube" I suppose I really don't know. However, I have been covered by head high waves in a crouched position and it definitely is not silent. Even if you rule out my screaming "frigging yahoo" at the top my lungs :P there is still plenty of sound.....mostly a loud "hissing" sound as the board drives through the water and some slight wave tumble/whitewater noise. Not very unlike the sound you get off a boat hull driving at hull speed on relatively flat water. If there are any elite surfers who have spent time in a standup tube they may have a different experience.

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My experience is much like PBs.... But to be honest, I think that enjoying the moment sort of puts you in another zone. So maybe it does go silent, but only in your one mind.... Your other mind hears every nuance of wave, foam, air..... It's quite a trip really.

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1 hour ago, Mrleft8 said:

My experience is much like PBs.... But to be honest, I think that enjoying the moment sort of puts you in another zone. So maybe it does go silent, but only in your one mind.... Your other mind hears every nuance of wave, foam, air..... It's quite a trip really.

I agree with you. It is unbelievable........hard to explain....and why I have been surfing for - well if you include using air mats as a kid - about 60 years. If you limit me to fiberglass and standing its been around 50. The whole experience is something hard to explain. From sitting quietly between sets as the sun sinks into the west, to dawn patrol paddling out just before it gets light, to surfing on strong offshore days when the air is warm and the wind is blowing the top off each wave in a big spray zone, to cooking breakfast on the beach after a morning session....big pan of eggs, bacon and biscuits on the fire, to sitting around the fire in the evening with a few brews and some buddies after an afternoon session. If I couldn't surf.......I don't know what I'd do...............

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2 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

Maybe one of you Surf Nazi's can answer a question I have long wondered about (I've never lived within 150 miles of surfing waves).

I was told once that when you are "in the tube" of a big wave that the world goes quite silent.

True?

Yes, sort of but not really. Not only that but time expands. It's hard to explain but those few seconds are burned in to your brain permanently and the memories are still as vivid today as they were 35 years ago. There's a break north of Santa Cruz called Scott's Creek that will deliver freezing overhead right barrels, but you better be at the top of your game and fully committed or it will eat you alive. 

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5 minutes ago, Dorado said:

Yes, sort of but not really. Not only that but time expands. It's hard to explain but those few seconds are burned in to your brain permanently and the memories are still as vivid today as they were 35 years ago.

I allwayes thick when you fulley intergratte, you our the wave, your the source of noise, mottion, and powere.  They our no longuere ouside stimullie.                    :)

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There's nothing like a barrel when you finally line one up - the few seconds you are inside feel like eternity when it's happening. I got my first legit barrel in my 20s at Ma'alaea a year or so after I moved to Maui, but they have been few and far between. My son, OTOH, snagged his first barrel when he was 7, at Keiki bowls on the inside of Honolua Bay. By the time he was 9, he was a better surfer than I ever was - he surfed Teahupo'o for the first time when he was 12, you couldn't pay me to paddle out there.

These days he's all about the airs, but when it's on, he goes deep. Here he is a couple years ago, when he was 14:
 

 

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8 minutes ago, surfsailor said:

There's nothing like a barrel when you finally line one up - the few seconds you are inside feel like eternity when it's happening. I got my first legit barrel in my 20s at Ma'alaea a year or so after I moved to Maui, but they have been few and far between. My son, OTOH, snagged his first barrel when he was 7, at Keiki bowls on the inside of Honolua Bay. By the time he was 9, he was a better surfer than I ever was - he surfed Teahupo'o for the first time when he was 12, you couldn't pay me to paddle out there.

These days he's all about the airs, but when it's on, he goes deep. Here he is a couple years ago, when he was 14:
 

 

Nice...........very.

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6 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

My wife is looking for you.

I'd be afraid, I'd be very afraid.

Sad to be you

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8 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

image.thumb.png.9deb8da457de79d57c1486b07fbbb15f.png

Don't laugh but this is how she waxes her pussy

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7 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

Maybe one of you Surf Nazi's can answer a question I have long wondered about (I've never lived within 150 miles of surfing waves).

I was told once that when you are "in the tube" of a big wave that the world goes quite silent.

True?

Fact. Everytime you get barreled you'll hear Ted Nugent's stanglehold, and nothing else

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12 hours ago, surfsailor said:

There's nothing like a barrel when you finally line one up - the few seconds you are inside feel like eternity when it's happening. I got my first legit barrel in my 20s at Ma'alaea a year or so after I moved to Maui, but they have been few and far between. My son, OTOH, snagged his first barrel when he was 7, at Keiki bowls on the inside of Honolua Bay. By the time he was 9, he was a better surfer than I ever was - he surfed Teahupo'o for the first time when he was 12, you couldn't pay me to paddle out there.

These days he's all about the airs, but when it's on, he goes deep. Here he is a couple years ago, when he was 14:
 

 

That kid has sticky feet! At my best I wasn't anywhere near that agile.

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2 hours ago, VWAP said:

 

Doesn't really look like fun - succeed or die.

How many people can actually do that? A dozen or so worldwide?

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52 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

Doesn't really look like fun - succeed or die.

How many people can actually do that? A dozen or so worldwide?

No....quite a few more. I'm just guessing but I'd think in the hundreds are surfing those, maybe more....including a fair number of women nowadays. Heck, Mavericks had 22 qualify for the contest last year with another 16 or so listed as alternates. 

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A few years back there was quite a discussion about the tribal attitude of so called locals who would drive visitors from "their" surf spot. Resorting to violence and vandalism. Has that gone away or does it still exist?

 

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9 minutes ago, bmiller said:

A few years back there was quite a discussion about the tribal attitude of so called locals who would drive visitors from "their" surf spot. Resorting to violence and vandalism. Has that gone away or does it still exist?

 

Was a trial in San Diego. Conclusion was, surfers are not gangs.

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29 minutes ago, bmiller said:

A few years back there was quite a discussion about the tribal attitude of so called locals who would drive visitors from "their" surf spot. Resorting to violence and vandalism. Has that gone away or does it still exist?

 

Varies from spot to spot....but it’s the same except those places that got lots of news coverage. But that’s temporary, as soon as the attention dies down it’ll go back. I told a smart ass kid one day “I got more time on the shitter than you have at this break”. His buddies thought it was hilarious and we got along fine. GENERALLY, if you’re not an idiot or a Barney it’s not hard to get along.

 

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18 hours ago, Point Break said:

Nice...........very.

 

6 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

That kid has sticky feet! At my best I wasn't anywhere near that agile.

Thanks, guys. He's pretty amazing, I couldn't surf like that in my wildest dreams - he's a natural athlete like his mom. When that video was filmed, he was still recovering from a broken femur and multiple related operations, it's been fun and inspirational watching his progress since then. The ocean is truly his home - he was 2 time jr sailor of the year at LYC when he was a little kid, but he's been 100% surfing focused for the last 5 years. Hoping to get him back into sailing at some point.

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Not much a fan of SUPers poaching waves, but I'm loving how women seem to be rediscovering cross step walking and nose riding...

https://surfersmag.de/video/josie-prendergast-born-here.html

 

 

 

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40 minutes ago, Willin' said:

Not much a fan of SUPers poaching waves, 

Explain that to me. What difference does it make if the next guy to catch the wave has a stick in his hand or not? How is that poaching? 

That's like me saying those damn snowboarders poached my line. Does it really matter the tool one uses to ride a wave or carve a turn?

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7 minutes ago, bmiller said:

Explain that to me. What difference does it make if the next guy to catch the wave has a stick in his hand or not? How is that poaching? 

That's like me saying those damn snowboarders poached my line. Does it really matter the tool one uses to ride a wave or carve a turn?

It's a powerboat sitting on the shoulder constantly stealing shit. It's a shitbag move to do. Clearly you don't surf, what the fuck does it matter to you? 

people are shitty tribal creatures at surf breaks because surf breaks can't support lots of people. it's not fucking skiing. it's not colorado. one good wave, one person.

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1 minute ago, bmiller said:

Explain that to me. What difference does it make if the next guy to catch the wave has a stick in his hand or not? How is that poaching? 

That's like me saying those damn snowboarders poached my line. Does it really matter the tool one uses to ride a wave or carve a turn?

Short board v long board sniveling. The short version is a longer board (think waterline length) can get into a wave further out in the lineup. Short boards need to wait till the wave is nearly breaking to catch it because less waterline means less paddling glide. So an SUP or a long board can sit further out and already be in the wave surfing before the short board is even trying to paddle into the wave. It pisses them off and they call it poaching. This is especially a conflict if the long board/SUP takes every single wave that comes along. Hogging all the waves because of a paddling advantage can really piss the short boarders off. Frankly, I see their point. When I’m in the lineup with short boards inside I’m attentive to not being a wave hog. Skipping a set isn’t a big deal to me.....in my mind it’s about sharing this wonderful experience we call surfing. There are always enough waves to share unless you’re an asshole. Also.....at my age....I need to take a break once in a while. :lol:

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2 minutes ago, Point Break said:

 This is especially a conflict if the long board/SUP takes every single wave that comes along. Hogging all the waves

which is often what they do. usually some kooky inlander hogging waves thinking they rule.

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1 hour ago, Willin' said:

Not much a fan of SUPers poaching waves, but I'm loving how women seem to be rediscovering cross step walking and nose riding...

 

Funny, when started surfing a short board was around 8 feet......and tri-fin? No such thing. Then when short boards started to be popular I went to my shortest board ever......a 7’6” Gordon & Smith pintail trifin. I gave it away a year later. But one of the things I love about surfing is the many ways short and long that you can express yourself. I’m amazed at the athleticism of some of the short boards. They pull off high energy unbelievable moves. But I’ve never lost my love of the classic long board style cross walk, nose ride, arched back, drop knee cut backs.........love it. I hope when I heal up I can bring that experience to SUP riding as well. We’ll see. 

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23 minutes ago, Mismoyled Jiblet. said:

which is often what they do. usually some kooky inlander hogging waves thinking they rule.

If you notice those idiots are usually hogging, dropping on and cutting off other long boarders as well. Nobody appreciates those idiots.

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21 minutes ago, Mismoyled Jiblet. said:

It's a powerboat sitting on the shoulder constantly stealing shit. It's a shitbag move to do. Clearly you don't surf, what the fuck does it matter to you? 

people are shitty tribal creatures at surf breaks because surf breaks can't support lots of people. it's not fucking skiing. it's not colorado. one good wave, one person.

Dood, relax. It was a sincere question. I don't understand the surf culture and was just asking. I thought about taking it up after retiring but if it means dealing assholes every time out I'll pass.

On the other hand, I've spent a few days in the backcountry and countless days lift served skiing. I can honestly say the vast majority of the people I run into in the bc are pretty cool. Always willing to discuss a line, share a snack or the merits of the local IPA. And most importantly discuss the state of the snowpack and avy safety. You never know, that stranger may help save your ass. And vice versa.

 

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8 minutes ago, Point Break said:

If you notice those idiots are usually hogging, dropping on and cutting off other long boarders as well. Nobody appreciates those idiots.

I have. It only takes a couple idiots to screw up a break. And ime, like life, a bunch of them never get their comeuppance.

 Brasilians, ime, get a bad rep for wave hogging but I've had more than one look at a decent wave and say - have that one, it's yours man. 

anyways, surfing is perfection with a few other people out. with more than that it's hell.

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22 minutes ago, Mismoyled Jiblet. said:

anyways, surfing is perfection with a few other people out. with more than that it's hell.

Well.....those days are over......or at least pretty rare anymore. My view is we can figure it out. It’s different when it’s crowded but I still manage to enjoy it. I try to avoid crowds but sometimes that’s what is. I gotta say, I always got up REAL early and was paddling out at sunrise. Unless there is a monster swell it’s rarely crowded then. So when it crowds up around 9-10, I’m usually done. There are too many hassles in life to bring hassles to the lineup. 

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You can still find places where not many people have found the waves..... But they are far away, and few.

 Bacolette Beach on Tobago was one place, but then some asshole built a resort on the bluff above it, and now it's over run with fat elderly Germans.... Surf? not there anymore.

 That's the place I saw the hammerhead shark silhouetted in the curl just after my last ride of the day..... It wasn't going to be my last ride until I saw that....

 It was fun to run in from the foam shouting "Hi! Hi! Hi!" to the people on the beach though..... In German "Hi!" is "Shark!"

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37 minutes ago, bmiller said:

Dood, relax. It was a sincere question. I don't understand the surf culture and was just asking. I thought about taking it up after retiring but if it means dealing assholes every time out I'll pass.

 

Other than a few spots the legendary animosity of locals is overstated. After 50 years of surfing most of the California Coast I’ve rarely had a problem and even then it’s just some puffy jaw jacking.....whatever. I’ve never been vandalized or physically assaulted. The secret is at a break you don’t know, don’t paddle out into the middle, spin around and take off. If I don’t know the break, I paddle out on the edge and watch for a little. Maybe sit outside and strike up a conversation or two. Take a wave - not the best of the set - a few times. Don’t crowd anybody right away, and in a while they figure out you’re not an idiot, not a hog, not an asshole, you play by the rules of the road and eventually you can surf pretty much unmolested. 

When learning stay out of the lineup and work on the edges or down from the peak. Nobody wants somebody who is working on paddling, standing and taking off sitting in the middle of the break spraying the board all over when they fall. That jacks up everybody’s day. Eventually when you master the basics you can begin to move toward the actual break. 

My experiance has been people are generally pretty nice out there. 

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BTW, the worst locals I’ve ever encountered was surfing in Hawaii. They’re pretty touchy there......at least that’s been my experiance. Maybe they have to put up with more Barney’s.

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32 minutes ago, Point Break said:

BTW, the worst locals I’ve ever encountered was surfing in Hawaii. They’re pretty touchy there......at least that’s been my experiance. Maybe they have to put up with more Barney’s.

What's  a Barney?

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24 minutes ago, Rasputin22 said:

I guess you never had a go at Big Rock? Those guys had some attitude. 

No, not exactly a long board wave.....but no...the Wind n Sea crowd is one of the groups it’s not worth being around.....and I guarded Boomers/Children’s Pool and the Cove. 

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31 minutes ago, Point Break said:

the Wind n Sea crowd is one of the groups it’s not worth being around

Interesting. Tom Wolfe wrote about them being tribal assholes 50 years ago.

I guess it's become a family tradition.

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10 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

Interesting. Tom Wolfe wrote about them being tribal assholes 50 years ago.

I guess it's become a family tradition.

Well....I guarded there in 1976 after I got out of the military......so that was 42 years ago....

The problem places that really everyone knew about back then were Wind n Sea, Huntington south side of the pier, PV Lunada Bay, some spots in the South Bay, Ventura County Line, Rincon, and Santa Cruz Steamer Lane.....and really only Wind n Sea, Rincon, and Lunada were REALLY bad. On a whole coast that’s not so bad.

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6 hours ago, Point Break said:

Well.....those days are over......or at least pretty rare anymore. My view is we can figure it out. It’s different when it’s crowded but I still manage to enjoy it. I try to avoid crowds but sometimes that’s what is. I gotta say, I always got up REAL early and was paddling out at sunrise. Unless there is a monster swell it’s rarely crowded then. So when it crowds up around 9-10, I’m usually done. There are too many hassles in life to bring hassles to the lineup. 

Took an early mark yesterday when my son rang me to tell me the entire Gold Coast was 2-3 and a complete glass out. Checked out the points - they were nuts then found a little peak all to my self on a beach break. Spent 2 hours getting barrel after barrel with only a few dolfins for company, then went and watched the pros ripping perfect Dbar. An afternoon like that makes life worth living despite the horror show 2 hour drive home.

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You might find this interesting. My brother had this 9'1" Meyerhoffer made about 20 years ago and he gave it to my oldest lad for his 21st birthday today. It is weird but I can not wait to try it! My sons Quiver is now over 20 boards. We are going to need a bigger house.

IMG_6788.JPG

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7 hours ago, LB 15 said:

You might find this interesting. My brother had this 9'1" Meyerhoffer made about 20 years ago and he gave it to my oldest lad for his 21st birthday today. It is weird but I can not wait to try it! My sons Quiver is now over 20 boards. We are going to need a bigger house.

 

 

Looks like Mr Peanuts surfboard!

Image result for mr peanut

Image result for mr peanut surfing

    Goes to show you that any dude with a nice surfboard can get a hot chick. Look at Mr Peanuts GF!

Image result for mr peanut

 

    Is that Melania?

 

     I guess that is OK since Trump has just appointed Donald to the post of Secretary of Agriculture!

Image result for mr peanuts girlfriend

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11 hours ago, Point Break said:

Well....I guarded there in 1976 after I got out of the military......so that was 42 years ago....

The problem places that really everyone knew about back then were Wind n Sea, Huntington south side of the pier, PV Lunada Bay, some spots in the South Bay, Ventura County Line, Rincon, and Santa Cruz Steamer Lane.....and really only Wind n Sea, Rincon, and Lunada were REALLY bad. On a whole coast that’s not so bad.

I used to get a bit nervous when I first started surfing WInd'an'Sea in 1970 but the rock ledge at Big Rock scared me more than the goons that claimed it as there own. You didn't even dare point a camera out at the break there! My surfing buddy rode kneeboards and he got bold enough to paddle out at Big Rock and he was surprised that a couple of guys greeted him when he got to the line up. Strictly kneeboards there at that time and one guy started chatting him up in a congenial way. The other guy smiled and nodded and paddled around behind him and my buddy didn't pay much attention to what that guy was up too. He kept talking with the friendly one who saw a set coming and told him to follow him south to catch the peak or they wouldn't catch a wave at all. He couldn't believe that he was getting such help as a beginner in such a notorious spot and followed as told. The guy kept saying that the wave would double on the other side of the shallow ledge and the paddle in would be easy and early. The swell comes out of a deep canyon and when it pushed skyward the whole crew started yelling at the new guy 'Go for it man, you in just the right spot!'

    He thought is was  a suicidal takeoff but couldn't turn it down with the whole crew cheering him on so he did a late drop and just kept going straight down at the bottom of the square wave and hit the nose of his board on the rocky reef and got pretty well worked over himself. When he popped to the surface he reached for his 'kook cord' to snag his board which was right in front of the exposed 'rock' that gave the break its name. No drag on the cord and he wound that it had been cleanly slashed. His board got caught up under the overhanging ledge and eventually washed up on top of the rock. He had no choice but to swim back to the channel and on the way passed the two guys who had 'greeted' him who were snickering and the dude who he hadn't paid attention to was holding up a little dive knife and had apparently kicked off his board and swam underwater to cut the newbies leash. They said 'Welcome to Big Rock' as he swam past...

     After recovering his board he went to his car and found his tires slashed too!

    Not long after that some East Coast Florida youngster paddles out at Big Rock on a stand up board which was unheard of and paddled in and got tube after tube much to the amazement of the Big Rock Posse and survived the wave and the crowd. We watched this audacious performance from W&S and figured that the guy would bet mobbed when he got back to his car, but his ballsy surfing impressed Da Boyz that they adopted him instantly. I think it was the fact that he was a Florida surfer and his respect he gave to the locals was what saved his ass that day.  Jeff Crawford was just stopping in San Diego on his way to Hawaii where he wowed the competitive circuit there. 

In the summer of 1973, Jeff (Crawford) continued his streak and became the first East Coaster to grace the cover of a major surf publication-an amazing Warren Bolster tube shot taken at Big Rock in La Jolla, California. (Five years later, Jeff scored the cover again, this time at Pipeline. The shot was noted as one of the most tech surf images of its time.) People were starting to take notice of this relatively unknown badass from back East.

Image result for surfing

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30 minutes ago, Rasputin22 said:

Not long after that some East Coast Florida youngster paddles out at Big Rock on a stand up board which was unheard of and paddled in and got tube after tube much to the amazement of the Big Rock Posse and survived the wave and the crowd.

SUP at Big Rock!!!?? :blink: Holy cow!! That is such a steep fast barrel I can't imagine it with a long board much less an SUP! How the hell did he ever make the bottom turn?? I'd have stopped and watched as well. 

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41 minutes ago, SailBlueH2O said:

Never had much opportunity with a board..Miami and all....but did spend the summer 1969 chasing a dream living on the water side of Mission Blvd in Pacific Beach...between odd jobs was in the water any time there were waves body surfing...never had  any trouble mixing in with the boards...then standing in line @ Maynard's for 50 cent paper plate spaghetti dinners ....it was wonderful !

I guarded two seasons (well, 1.5 seasons) as a SD City seasonal before I got picked up at the FD. The advantage of being one of the lowest seniority seasonals was I was extra and not assigned to any specific beach.That meant I got used to fill in for sick and vacation staffing anywhere. Some guys hated that because you didn't have a home, you didn't have regular start and stop hours, if a beach wasn't busy you were the first to get sent home, and once in a while you'd get sent down to the bay to guard something like Crown Point or Bonita etc (yuck!!). What I liked was I probably worked almost every beach we had at one point or another, and often got to ride the wet seat in the jeep with the Sgt or Lt. Jeep days were fun because you backed up pretty much every significant rescue which meant I went into the water a lot on those days. So, I remember PB & MB really well. I liked it there because the boardwalk in MB was always entertaining and the rescues were pretty easy. On the weekend, all it took was a short walk down from the tower and someone was certain to feed you great BBQ. "Hey lifeguard, want some food?" Uh.......yes.....

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I have another sincere question.

In the lexicon of mountain living the term "dirtbag" is a badge of honor. It's generally used by climbers, skiers and recently mountain bikers. A dirtbag is someone who gives up everything, including employment, in the pursuit of their chosen sport. Dirtbags eat ramen noodles and wash it down with PBRs. They crash on anybodies couch or for the truly fortunate in their van. Their wardrobe is goodwill but their equipment is usually top notch, never new. In general they eschew social norms.

Is there a similar term for surfer dudes? If so I have a theory.

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38 minutes ago, bmiller said:

I have another sincere question.

In the lexicon of mountain living the term "dirtbag" is a badge of honor. It's generally used by climbers, skiers and recently mountain bikers. A dirtbag is someone who gives up everything, including employment, in the pursuit of their chosen sport. Dirtbags eat ramen noodles and wash it down with PBRs. They crash on anybodies couch or for the truly fortunate in their van. Their wardrobe is goodwill but their equipment is usually top notch, never new. In general they eschew social norms.

Is there a similar term for surfer dudes? If so I have a theory.

http://blog.panamajack.com/the-surf-bum-rv-lifestyle/

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12 minutes ago, Point Break said:

SUP at Big Rock!!!?? :blink: Holy cow!! That is such a steep fast barrel I can't imagine it with a long board much less an SUP! How the hell did he ever make the bottom turn?? I'd have stopped and watched as well. 

I didn't phrase that well. It was long before SUP. I guess it was maybe a 6'6" standard shortboard for that era. No bottom turn at Big Rock for sure. From some of the reading I just did about Crawford was that he was pretty well known as a Surf Nazi back at his home break at Sebastians Inlet.  I think the his stop in San Diego was that he was trying to get his hands on the local homegrown Fish Twin fins that Steve Lis was shaping for the kneeboarders starting about 1970. Big Rock was pretty much the breeding grounds for the Fish. 

    When the '72 Worlds was held a couple years later, David Nuuiwha had shown up with a whole quiver of fish boards and was acting like he had invented the design. The San Diego bad boys pulled a little stunt to set the record straight.

image.png.91d8a2c63d2738bb4457159abc1df653.png

 

 

 

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27 minutes ago, Rasputin22 said:

Mpora-investigates-US-Army-Surfing-in-Vietnam-LOGO.jpg

 

China Beach surfing during Vietnam War.

Charley don't surf.

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Here is the real deal about China Beach. An filmaker friend of mine over in Pensacola met a vet who said he surfed in Viet Nam and was actually the president of the China Beach Surf Club. They started digging up old film footage that he had archived and ended up putting together a documentary about the experience. They put a Surf Flick Festival of sorts about this time last year at the Flora-Bama and released this preview. I'll have to make a call and see if the whole film is finished yet. I think that they flew back to China Beach and were surprised to see how popular the sport is with the locals. The club had left all the surfboards when the military left and the guy actually found some local kids that were still surfing on his old board! 

http://www.pnj.com/videos/news/2017/06/09/documentary-explores-vietnam-surf-scene/102675042/

More old stock military footage

 

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Nice little history of Black's Beach, where I usually surfed since I lived just over the hill in Universal City and could ride my Honda 50 Trail through the railroad right of ways and stay off of public roads for the most part.

 

Or wait until Sunday and borrow my Dad's Mustang!

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Well, I'd reply to BMiller's question about my dislike of SUPers poaching in the lineup, but it's been about thrashed to death  by others. As much as I'd like to comment about my one time, in the water, near punch out at Big Rock by locals, that's been sufficiently covered by others as well. If living in your van for years at a time to follow your surf jones makes you a dirtbag, somebody hand me a bar of soap.

I see someone mentioned Blacks, where I've never quite actually surfed, but I have paddled out at Scripps Pier and LJ Shores and Cove. Reminds me of the good ol' days surfing nekkid at a break just west of Isla Vita called Sands. There's a natural seafloor crude oil seep not far offshore there and surfing nude pretty much guaranteed going home with a messy board to clean up and even messier belly and arms that needed serious Wesson Oil treatment... good news if your GF surfed with you. I always dreamt of surfing naked in the tropics somewhere clean, but sadly, that never happened for me

Not much nude surfing in Maine nowadays.

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6 minutes ago, Willin' said:

Well, I'd reply to BMiller's question about my dislike of SUPers poaching in the lineup, but it's been about thrashed to death  by others. As much as I'd like to comment about my one time, in the water, near punch out at Big Rock by locals, that's been sufficiently covered by others as well. If living in your van for years at a time to follow your surf jones makes you a dirtbag, somebody hand me a bar of soap.

I see someone mentioned Blacks, where I've never quite actually surfed, but I have paddled out at Scripps Pier and LJ Shores and Cove. Reminds me of the good ol' days surfing nekkid at a break just west of Isla Vita called Sands. There's a natural seafloor crude oil seep not far offshore there and surfing nude pretty much guaranteed going home with a messy board to clean up and even messier belly and arms that needed serious Wesson Oil treatment... good news if your GF surfed with you. I always dreamt of surfing naked in the tropics somewhere clean, but sadly, that never happened for me

Not much nude surfing in Maine nowadays.

Maine is pretty though. I could never leave the beach but if I did Maine would be pretty high on my list..........seasonally of course!! :lol:

I guarded Blacks for about two weeks.........different. Worst was at high tide you were not getting any backup from the south on rescues. So 3 guards, 2 at opening and 1 late in the day toward evening. The bottom there was pretty shifting. Get a flash or traveling rip that sweeps a dozen tourists out and you are on your own......the state guards next beach up north never came down to help. 

I worked with a couple guards back then who were "permanent seasonals". They guarded for City in the summer and worked ski patrol in the winter. The gap in the seasons was world travel time. Those boys had it figured out................. 

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3 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

I didn't phrase that well. It was long before SUP. I guess it was maybe a 6'6" standard shortboard for that era. No bottom turn at Big Rock for sure. 

 

I'm sorry, I understand now what you meant, standup as opposed to kneeboard or bellies.......got it. Duh........I'm slow lately.

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4 hours ago, bmiller said:

I have another sincere question.

In the lexicon of mountain living the term "dirtbag" is a badge of honor. It's generally used by climbers, skiers and recently mountain bikers. A dirtbag is someone who gives up everything, including employment, in the pursuit of their chosen sport. Dirtbags eat ramen noodles and wash it down with PBRs. They crash on anybodies couch or for the truly fortunate in their van. Their wardrobe is goodwill but their equipment is usually top notch, never new. In general they eschew social norms.

Is there a similar term for surfer dudes? If so I have a theory.

Unemploymend Douchebag?

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25 minutes ago, Point Break said:

I worked with a couple guards back then who were "permanent seasonals". They guarded for City in the summer and worked ski patrol in the winter. The gap in the seasons was world travel time. Those boys had it figured out................. 

Wonder how they're doing now? ;)

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3 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

Wonder how they're doing now? ;)

The only one I kept in touch with is dead....................skin cancer. They were almost all pretty hearty partiers.......I reckon unless one of them stumbled into some rich lady or invented something or other that none of them are comfortable.....at least thats what I keep telling myself. Although I took a pretty darn good road and loved every minute so I have no complaints.

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On 4/21/2018 at 5:26 PM, Rasputin22 said:

 

 

I see a bright future for the young man.

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On 4/20/2018 at 2:40 AM, Snaggletooth said:

I allwayes thick when you fulley intergratte, you our the wave, your the source of noise, mottion, and powere.  They our no longuere ouside stimullie.                    :)

I always thought that it was because if you are in a wave that big, your butt is clenched so tight, that all of your openings close up!

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7 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

Looks like the dolphins have been learning from the thug surfers described above. :D

He wants to try paddle boarding too!

 

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1 hour ago, hobot said:

 

Doheny is a great little family break! In the middle the waves are like the video.....tiny little things great for kids learning. On a decent day, both the section at the harbor mouth (although mid break at low tide it sucks out over a few rocks that you MUST avoid or you jack up your board.....never mind how I know this) and at pipes in front of the lifeguard tower can be very nice. Had some very nice south swell days there. Very nice. Then after the whole family surfs, the park area is awesome for a BBQ. I used to really like Do-Ho.

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i was never/ arnt a surfer, however i racer thundercats in the surf for a few seasons. Last year however we built a bach close to a surf beach and enrolled yhe 2 youngest in the nippers class at the surf lifesaving club. 9yo will surf as much as he can and 6yo will stay in the surf on her body board till she is blue. one of the best things we have done for them. 

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17 hours ago, random said:

  But I am not recommending drugs to anyone, even though it worked for me.

You might want to get a second opinion on that.

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Past week..Ports closed due to high surf advisory... A lot of big waves from southern Indian Ocean swell

 

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