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Rasputin22

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On 22/04/2018 at 9:06 AM, Point Break said:

The only one I kept in touch with is dead....................skin cancer. They were almost all pretty hearty partiers.......I reckon unless one of them stumbled into some rich lady or invented something or other that none of them are comfortable.....at least thats what I keep telling myself. Although I took a pretty darn good road and loved every minute so I have no complaints.

I got a 50th Anniversary of the Board-riders club to go to this year.  Should be catching up with some people I haven't seen for many years.

 

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Past week..Ports closed due to high surf advisory... A lot of big waves from southern Indian Ocean swell

 

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Back in the day when the Newport Harbor entrance was completely closed out the Big Corona side of the jetty could go off. Occasionally a wave could go all the way through to Little Corona/ Cameo Shores. Matt surfers were the big obstacle back then. I wonder if anyone ever matt surfs there or EL Morro any more?

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14 hours ago, blunderfull said:

Last week:  Big Wedge & Nub Nation do the channel

Classic........most excellent.

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10 hours ago, Willin' said:

Back in the day when the Newport Harbor entrance was completely closed out the Big Corona side of the jetty could go off. Occasionally a wave could go all the way through to Little Corona/ Cameo Shores. Matt surfers were the big obstacle back then. I wonder if anyone ever matt surfs there or EL Morro any more?

Prolly still do.  When it’s coming over top of the jetty I ck Big C cause that’s usually when it’s good.  

Matts don’t go away - just need to know where to look.  See a couple kneelos out there still.  It all goes around /round - JOB & Ben G hard hittin Big Wedge on softops.  Killah stuff that.   

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"About the only surfer nuttier than JOB (Jaime O'Brien) is Gravy Wavy. (Ben Gravy)"  For the dream!

Speaking of....say someone that is too stupid old to be thinking of such things, wanted to do the Atlantic Circle in a small boat, surfing  some head highish or less waves along the way.  Any suggestions for an old fart "expedition" type board?  I think I can fit about an 8' board in the "garage" quarter berth.  Those soft tops are looking sort of neat.

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1 hour ago, bridhb said:

"About the only surfer nuttier than JOB (Jaime O'Brien) is Gravy Wavy. (Ben Gravy)"  For the dream!

Speaking of....say someone that is too stupid old to be thinking of such things, wanted to do the Atlantic Circle in a small boat, surfing  some head highish or less waves along the way.  Any suggestions for an old fart "expedition" type board?  I think I can fit about an 8' board in the "garage" quarter berth.  Those soft tops are looking sort of neat.

Some time ago there was a surf school at the beach I was surfing at. All they use are soft tops so I talked the guy into letting me try one. It was an 8’ and very very wide. Kinda like a big pillow with a blunt nose at each end. It was actually fun. It paddles okay. It isn’t very responsive, forget any big bottom turns you might otherwise contemplate but..........for 90% of the waves on the planet and as long as you’re happy just cruising along......it would be fine. My style of surfing is pretty laid back, no snapbacks off the lip :P so as a boat travel board it would be fine for me. I wouldn’t want it as my full time only board though.

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3 hours ago, Point Break said:

Some time ago there was a surf school at the beach I was surfing at. All they use are soft tops so I talked the guy into letting me try one. It was an 8’ and very very wide. Kinda like a big pillow with a blunt nose at each end. It was actually fun. It paddles okay. It isn’t very responsive, forget any big bottom turns you might otherwise contemplate but..........for 90% of the waves on the planet and as long as you’re happy just cruising along......it would be fine. My style of surfing is pretty laid back, no snapbacks off the lip :P so as a boat travel board it would be fine for me. I wouldn’t want it as my full time only board though.

I have been east coast for all my life unfortunately (Bahamas can go off though!)  except for 4 months, fall in Encinitas, latish 70's, working as a dishwasher / sou chef at "Rocco's Vegetarian Italian" at night (owners had steaks brought in for their meals) and surfing every day.  Anyway, Dale Dobson would show up at D Street occasionally, absolutely ripping on a Morey Doyle soft board, without a fin.  I had a 5'-6" fish which seemed perfect for Swami's!  I will never forget watching Dobson  ripping on that finless soft board though....best surfer I ever watched in person.  No idea how he did it.  Pure poetry in motion.

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5 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

 

Old Farts Rule!

Yea and claimed for wave bumping the hardboarders who dropped in on him.   Cool.

Admit to usually dropping in on spongers when it’s shitty mush.  There, my conscience clean. 

I look over quick and see a mat with grey beard guy tearing it up?   Stay clear - who knows, might be Greenough and I don’t wanna be “that guy” in that movie.

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1 minute ago, blunderfull said:

Yea and claimed for wave bumping the hardboarders who dropped in on him.   Cool.

Admit to usually dropping in on spongers when it’s shitty mush.  There, my conscience clean. 

I look over quick and see a mat with grey beard guy tearing it up?   Stay clear - who knows, might be Greenough and I don’t wanna be “that guy” in that movie.

:lol:

For me it usually depends on how stupid clueless the sponger is. If they seem to know what is going on and don't flail after every wave, I treat em like anybody else out. If they are flailing idiots always in the way........they get a verbal "Hey dude, leave some for everybody else"....still stupid........get ready for a fiberglass shampoo...............usually only takes once to square them away.

Now that I aspire to be an old janitor, it'll be a whole new set of frowns............but I'm no barney, I know the rules.

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37 minutes ago, bridhb said:

I have been east coast for all my life unfortunately (Bahamas can go off though!)  except for 4 months, fall in Encinitas, latish 70's, working as a dishwasher / sou chef at "Rocco's Vegetarian Italian" at night (owners had steaks brought in for their meals) and surfing every day.  Anyway, Dale Dobson would show up at D Street occasionally, absolutely ripping on a Morey Doyle soft board, without a fin.  I had a 5'-6" fish which seemed perfect for Swami's!  I will never forget watching Dobson  ripping on that finless soft board though....best surfer I ever watched in person.  No idea how he did it.  Pure poetry in motion.

I spent quite a bit of time in and around Encinitas/Leucadia in high school in the late 60's. Great surf and good vibe. Spent most of my time in south Carlsbad and foot of Tamarack street. Hada buddy who lived in those homes just south of the power plant and therefore access to the "private" beach down there (pre surfrider). Pretty good waves there as well.

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It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.

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20 minutes ago, Willin' said:

It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.

Don’t forget the yellow poly rope around it.

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And it was quite the work out to get thru the break out to the line up - you got used to waiting for the break between sets.

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When I was 5 or so, I “surfed” my first waves in Hawaii on the ankle slappers at Kaneohe where we lived and occasionally Waimea - in the summer of course - where Mom used to love to go for a beach picnic. So we’re talking 1956ish. Pop would let me take a inflatable “Field Mattress” or in the slang....a “rubber lady” along to the beach. It was a blow up full length mattress (grey/green of course) that was so thick it was impossible to puncture with a also air inflated “pillow” at the head. At 5 it was almost unmanageable if there was any wind. It was a nipple killer as well so after the first “surf session” I was required to wear a tee shirt when I “rode” it. Boy was it fun. 

So there......I started as a sponger on a rubber lady that rubbed your nipples raw.

There.....I feel better for getting that out.

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9 hours ago, Willin' said:

It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.

I remember those when I was a little kid.  Crap they tore you up!  Kids these days have it so easy with boogie boards!

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17 hours ago, Willin' said:

It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.

Versatile!  IMG_5009.thumb.jpg.7ae6e49660a7d81471245fb792dde51e.jpg

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58 minutes ago, Owen said:

Versatile!  IMG_5009.thumb.jpg.7ae6e49660a7d81471245fb792dde51e.jpg

That's what I'm talkin' about. Guys used to do incredible things with them. I guess the long tubes helped hold it to the face so they could almost plane out of steep tuby situations. Woody Woodworth shot a lot of pix of matt riders back in the late 70s. A quick google shows folk are still ripping it up.

Image+1.jpg

 

krypt3.jpg

Maybe I need one!

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I did the mats in Va Beach as a kid and remember the nipple rash well. Looks like there is a whole new breed of mats from Australia (go figure!) that are much advanced. The video of the old bearded guys really opened my eyes and I was surprised at how under inflated theirs seemed to be. One guy mentioned that the new mats are the closest thing to the way pelicans glide effortlessly for miles on any wave supported by WIG (wing in ground effect) and I see how this seems to be the case for these new mats. This video just blew me away, I'm ready to get one for my geriatric surfing days!

 

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    I was lucky enough to see George surf Big Rock back in the early 70's on one of his FB/foam 'spoons' that looked like a horse collar with the inside of the U filled in with a thin flexible sheet of glass. Those boards would flex diagonally down their length in a hard turn and then snap back and just project down the wave like a bar of soap squirting out of your hands when squeezed. We all though he must have been beamed down from some alien mothership he was so out on his own level.

Image result for george greenough spoon design

Image result for george greenough spoon design

He had a few other tricks up his sleeve too!

Image result for george greenough spoon design

 

 

 

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12 minutes ago, Rasputin22 said:

    I was lucky enough to see George surf Big Rock back in the early 70's on one of his FB/foam 'spoons' that looked like a horse collar with the inside of the U filled in with a thin flexible sheet of glass. Those boards would flex diagonally down their length in a hard turn and then snap back and just project down the wave like a bar of soap squirting out of your hands when squeezed. We all though he must have been beamed down from some alien mothership he was so out on his own level.

Image result for george greenough spoon design

 

 

 

 

I last saw one of these on the wall of the Restaurant at Angourie in about 2004.  Nat Young was managing his accommodation and we organised a piss-up weekend with some clients.  Whatever the year it was not that long after Nat got bashed.

Imagine what would have happened if George has put three fins on that puppy?

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Those mats look awesome........one thing about sponging....like bodysurfing you are right there intimately in the wave face....inches away but going much faster than bodysurfing. Buddy of mine has moved to surf ski's (knees are low back issues) and he really likes it a lot.............

 

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Right now I'm working on the janitor surfing. Very much like the old longboarding style I love so much. My boardsurfing days might be over but this next step has me stoked to get good at it.

 

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1 minute ago, hobot said:

"janitor surfing" hah!!

Had a kid shoot that term at me in the parking lot just before my hip surgery (f*&^ing janitor)........he didn't mean it as a compliment but.......I thought it was frigging hilarious............since I've been surfing for about 60 years now in one form or another........pretty hard to get me riled up.

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55 minutes ago, Point Break said:

Had a kid shoot that term at me in the parking lot just before my hip surgery (f*&^ing janitor)........he didn't mean it as a compliment but.......I thought it was frigging hilarious............since I've been surfing for about 60 years now in one form or another........pretty hard to get me riled up.

Not sure bout that.  It's easy.

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1 hour ago, Point Break said:

Had a kid shoot that term at me in the parking lot just before my hip surgery (f*&^ing janitor)........he didn't mean it as a compliment but.......I thought it was frigging hilarious............since I've been surfing for about 60 years now in one form or another........pretty hard to get me riled up.

Grems best duct taped to t-pole for smack talking tribal elders.

 

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3 minutes ago, blunderfull said:

Grems best duct taped to t-pole for smack talking tribal elders.

 

:lol:

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I always preferred the old Water Wonder  at the Wedge . Very popular pre boogie board back in the late 70's . It's a learn how to swim board for kids.  It has just enough buoyancy to help you float while resting  but also you can dive deep under the big swells and get a good foiling edge  to hold your body up when on the wave as well as very helpful arm-oar paddling quickly back out beyond the break. The  old handgun was cool but had no buoyancy .. Also the advent of churchil fins were a great advantage over the oldschool duckfins in helping to  preventing leg cramps 

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Wave Ranch is a smokin’ fast ride.  That day looked like 2-3’ overhead and firing.

Very cool vibe @ Wave Ranch.

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Looks just to uniform.  Bit boring.

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30 minutes ago, random said:

Looks just to uniform.  Bit boring.

Is what it is.   They continue to ramp up the size and power and we got a whole new sport.

Never gonna replace North Shore winters in our minds but, for a bazillion young gamers this slots in nicely to their fantasy worlds.

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3 minutes ago, VOA said:

You call it boring? I say you'd get drilled, wouldn't make the take off.

Yea, I was glad to see Ben G nail his first one.  Jordan was stressing he’d blow the drop.

Some of those righthander Ranch waves rivalled Backdoor for speed and punch.  Not surprising given that Slater was out there. 

They can amp things up when they want to.  I think they want to keep it reasonable, even for the pros, so no one gets mangled in all that apparatus in the back.  Another reason I like Wave Lake in Oz - easier on the eyes. Train & trestle at Ranch a rough look as it is now.

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How many grams of CO2 are produced each wave?

As interesting as it is watching perfect waves it's an abomination.  Sorry Kelly, it's not what surfing is about.

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 When you consider the amortization of the investment and the energy required to drive that sled, I wonder just how much it costs to produce a single wave.

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I know it takes time to make good gravy, but come on it was 16 minutes before the guy even got wet! And then another 3 minutes until he caught a wave. He knows his way around a tube but could use some help on the editing.

    Interesting that you get an occasional glimpse of the foil just under the surface of the water near the trestle. I'm sure Kelly wants to keep that configuration under wraps. They have done a lot since this video to hide the workings of the sled and foil now that it is getting more video coverage. 

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If you're gonna surf a lake, surf Lake Superior. 

Here's a friend of mine paddling into a decent dawn patrol set last January. I didn't take the picture, so can't take credit.

IMG_3565.JPG (1).jpeg

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At least the Aussie mushroom makes four waves per splash - that's a great commercial advantage.

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1 hour ago, longy said:

At least the Aussie mushroom makes four waves per splash - that's a great commercial advantage.

I was thinking the same thing, and since they control the bottom conditions you can get very different waves off each push.

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5 hours ago, ajbram said:

If you're gonna surf a lake, surf Lake Superior. 

Here's a friend of mine paddling into a decent dawn patrol set last January. I didn't take the picture, so can't take credit.

IMG_3565.JPG (1).jpeg

Nice !

But you can never find the dead guys this time of year. :mellow:

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Just drove through Lemoore leaving Sequoia/ Kings Canyon. No sign at the off ramp for the wave pool yet.

 

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hit an afternoon session with my son on saturday after a month of wave-less busy schedules. the waves were nothing close to good, but to be honest, it didn't even matter...sharing sets with your kid regardless of size and shape is the greatest reward in and of itself. then having him tell me on the ride home "the waves weren't great, but thanks dad, we needed that!" was just the icing on the cake

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10 minutes ago, aA said:

hit an afternoon session with my son on saturday after a month of wave-less busy schedules. the waves were nothing close to good, but to be honest, it didn't even matter...sharing sets with your kid regardless of size and shape is the greatest reward in and of itself. then having him tell me on the ride home "the waves weren't great, but thanks dad, we needed that!" was just the icing on the cake

Been there...done that....and you're right. Its awesome. He is 40 now. :lol:

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Drove past Rincon yesterday aft and was surprised that there were quite a few desperados out in ankle to knee high conditions. I guess the need to get in shape before the big northwests arrive is kicking in.

Also found C street pretty well packed with longboarders all day long.  Can't say I blame them... easy parking and paddle out in beautiful weather.

Alas, I'll be back in Maine tonight.

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19 minutes ago, Bruno said:

Nice how he can make hard cutbacks and keep speed.

His boards just slice & carry like few others.  

One of the Kings of the tribe. 

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THIS

 

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Looks like Mavericks next week....maybe Thursday. Big wave surfers all on their way..........predictions are maybe 50 feet! That’s a big wave. Might have to head up........

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4 minutes ago, Point Break said:

Looks like Mavericks next week

gallery_xlarge.jpg

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H2O missing .................

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3 hours ago, Point Break said:

Looks like Mavericks next week....maybe Thursday. Big wave surfers all on their way..........predictions are maybe 50 feet! That’s a big wave. Might have to head up........

Flying out on Sunday afternoon

High surf warning for Bay Area beaches, waves up to 50-feet expected

 

https://www.kron4.com/weather/high-surf-warning-for-bay-area-beaches-waves-up-to-50-feet-expected/1660969148

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Pipe Masters 2018

 

 

@ 4:00 - Slater Skills: Falls off in deep, gets back up & finishes in barrel.   See 2 believe.

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