Rasputin22

Surf Anarchy

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, bridhb said:

"About the only surfer nuttier than JOB (Jaime O'Brien) is Gravy Wavy. (Ben Gravy)"  For the dream!

Speaking of....say someone that is too stupid old to be thinking of such things, wanted to do the Atlantic Circle in a small boat, surfing  some head highish or less waves along the way.  Any suggestions for an old fart "expedition" type board?  I think I can fit about an 8' board in the "garage" quarter berth.  Those soft tops are looking sort of neat.

Some time ago there was a surf school at the beach I was surfing at. All they use are soft tops so I talked the guy into letting me try one. It was an 8’ and very very wide. Kinda like a big pillow with a blunt nose at each end. It was actually fun. It paddles okay. It isn’t very responsive, forget any big bottom turns you might otherwise contemplate but..........for 90% of the waves on the planet and as long as you’re happy just cruising along......it would be fine. My style of surfing is pretty laid back, no snapbacks off the lip :P so as a boat travel board it would be fine for me. I wouldn’t want it as my full time only board though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Point Break said:

Some time ago there was a surf school at the beach I was surfing at. All they use are soft tops so I talked the guy into letting me try one. It was an 8’ and very very wide. Kinda like a big pillow with a blunt nose at each end. It was actually fun. It paddles okay. It isn’t very responsive, forget any big bottom turns you might otherwise contemplate but..........for 90% of the waves on the planet and as long as you’re happy just cruising along......it would be fine. My style of surfing is pretty laid back, no snapbacks off the lip :P so as a boat travel board it would be fine for me. I wouldn’t want it as my full time only board though.

I have been east coast for all my life unfortunately (Bahamas can go off though!)  except for 4 months, fall in Encinitas, latish 70's, working as a dishwasher / sou chef at "Rocco's Vegetarian Italian" at night (owners had steaks brought in for their meals) and surfing every day.  Anyway, Dale Dobson would show up at D Street occasionally, absolutely ripping on a Morey Doyle soft board, without a fin.  I had a 5'-6" fish which seemed perfect for Swami's!  I will never forget watching Dobson  ripping on that finless soft board though....best surfer I ever watched in person.  No idea how he did it.  Pure poetry in motion.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

 

Old Farts Rule!

Yea and claimed for wave bumping the hardboarders who dropped in on him.   Cool.

Admit to usually dropping in on spongers when it’s shitty mush.  There, my conscience clean. 

I look over quick and see a mat with grey beard guy tearing it up?   Stay clear - who knows, might be Greenough and I don’t wanna be “that guy” in that movie.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, blunderfull said:

Yea and claimed for wave bumping the hardboarders who dropped in on him.   Cool.

Admit to usually dropping in on spongers when it’s shitty mush.  There, my conscience clean. 

I look over quick and see a mat with grey beard guy tearing it up?   Stay clear - who knows, might be Greenough and I don’t wanna be “that guy” in that movie.

:lol:

For me it usually depends on how stupid clueless the sponger is. If they seem to know what is going on and don't flail after every wave, I treat em like anybody else out. If they are flailing idiots always in the way........they get a verbal "Hey dude, leave some for everybody else"....still stupid........get ready for a fiberglass shampoo...............usually only takes once to square them away.

Now that I aspire to be an old janitor, it'll be a whole new set of frowns............but I'm no barney, I know the rules.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, bridhb said:

I have been east coast for all my life unfortunately (Bahamas can go off though!)  except for 4 months, fall in Encinitas, latish 70's, working as a dishwasher / sou chef at "Rocco's Vegetarian Italian" at night (owners had steaks brought in for their meals) and surfing every day.  Anyway, Dale Dobson would show up at D Street occasionally, absolutely ripping on a Morey Doyle soft board, without a fin.  I had a 5'-6" fish which seemed perfect for Swami's!  I will never forget watching Dobson  ripping on that finless soft board though....best surfer I ever watched in person.  No idea how he did it.  Pure poetry in motion.

I spent quite a bit of time in and around Encinitas/Leucadia in high school in the late 60's. Great surf and good vibe. Spent most of my time in south Carlsbad and foot of Tamarack street. Hada buddy who lived in those homes just south of the power plant and therefore access to the "private" beach down there (pre surfrider). Pretty good waves there as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, Willin' said:

It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.

Don’t forget the yellow poly rope around it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And it was quite the work out to get thru the break out to the line up - you got used to waiting for the break between sets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I was 5 or so, I “surfed” my first waves in Hawaii on the ankle slappers at Kaneohe where we lived and occasionally Waimea - in the summer of course - where Mom used to love to go for a beach picnic. So we’re talking 1956ish. Pop would let me take a inflatable “Field Mattress” or in the slang....a “rubber lady” along to the beach. It was a blow up full length mattress (grey/green of course) that was so thick it was impossible to puncture with a also air inflated “pillow” at the head. At 5 it was almost unmanageable if there was any wind. It was a nipple killer as well so after the first “surf session” I was required to wear a tee shirt when I “rode” it. Boy was it fun. 

So there......I started as a sponger on a rubber lady that rubbed your nipples raw.

There.....I feel better for getting that out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Willin' said:

It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.

I remember those when I was a little kid.  Crap they tore you up!  Kids these days have it so easy with boogie boards!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Willin' said:

It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.

Versatile!  IMG_5009.thumb.jpg.7ae6e49660a7d81471245fb792dde51e.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
58 minutes ago, Owen said:

Versatile!  IMG_5009.thumb.jpg.7ae6e49660a7d81471245fb792dde51e.jpg

That's what I'm talkin' about. Guys used to do incredible things with them. I guess the long tubes helped hold it to the face so they could almost plane out of steep tuby situations. Woody Woodworth shot a lot of pix of matt riders back in the late 70s. A quick google shows folk are still ripping it up.

Image+1.jpg

 

krypt3.jpg

Maybe I need one!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did the mats in Va Beach as a kid and remember the nipple rash well. Looks like there is a whole new breed of mats from Australia (go figure!) that are much advanced. The video of the old bearded guys really opened my eyes and I was surprised at how under inflated theirs seemed to be. One guy mentioned that the new mats are the closest thing to the way pelicans glide effortlessly for miles on any wave supported by WIG (wing in ground effect) and I see how this seems to be the case for these new mats. This video just blew me away, I'm ready to get one for my geriatric surfing days!

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

    I was lucky enough to see George surf Big Rock back in the early 70's on one of his FB/foam 'spoons' that looked like a horse collar with the inside of the U filled in with a thin flexible sheet of glass. Those boards would flex diagonally down their length in a hard turn and then snap back and just project down the wave like a bar of soap squirting out of your hands when squeezed. We all though he must have been beamed down from some alien mothership he was so out on his own level.

Image result for george greenough spoon design

Image result for george greenough spoon design

He had a few other tricks up his sleeve too!

Image result for george greenough spoon design

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Rasputin22 said:

    I was lucky enough to see George surf Big Rock back in the early 70's on one of his FB/foam 'spoons' that looked like a horse collar with the inside of the U filled in with a thin flexible sheet of glass. Those boards would flex diagonally down their length in a hard turn and then snap back and just project down the wave like a bar of soap squirting out of your hands when squeezed. We all though he must have been beamed down from some alien mothership he was so out on his own level.

Image result for george greenough spoon design

 

 

 

 

I last saw one of these on the wall of the Restaurant at Angourie in about 2004.  Nat Young was managing his accommodation and we organised a piss-up weekend with some clients.  Whatever the year it was not that long after Nat got bashed.

Imagine what would have happened if George has put three fins on that puppy?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those mats look awesome........one thing about sponging....like bodysurfing you are right there intimately in the wave face....inches away but going much faster than bodysurfing. Buddy of mine has moved to surf ski's (knees are low back issues) and he really likes it a lot.............

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right now I'm working on the janitor surfing. Very much like the old longboarding style I love so much. My boardsurfing days might be over but this next step has me stoked to get good at it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, hobot said:

"janitor surfing" hah!!

Had a kid shoot that term at me in the parking lot just before my hip surgery (f*&^ing janitor)........he didn't mean it as a compliment but.......I thought it was frigging hilarious............since I've been surfing for about 60 years now in one form or another........pretty hard to get me riled up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, Point Break said:

Had a kid shoot that term at me in the parking lot just before my hip surgery (f*&^ing janitor)........he didn't mean it as a compliment but.......I thought it was frigging hilarious............since I've been surfing for about 60 years now in one form or another........pretty hard to get me riled up.

Not sure bout that.  It's easy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Point Break said:

Had a kid shoot that term at me in the parking lot just before my hip surgery (f*&^ing janitor)........he didn't mean it as a compliment but.......I thought it was frigging hilarious............since I've been surfing for about 60 years now in one form or another........pretty hard to get me riled up.

Grems best duct taped to t-pole for smack talking tribal elders.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, blunderfull said:

Grems best duct taped to t-pole for smack talking tribal elders.

 

:lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And then of course there is the old dependable........an inflatable bed mattress........

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I always preferred the old Water Wonder  at the Wedge . Very popular pre boogie board back in the late 70's . It's a learn how to swim board for kids.  It has just enough buoyancy to help you float while resting  but also you can dive deep under the big swells and get a good foiling edge  to hold your body up when on the wave as well as very helpful arm-oar paddling quickly back out beyond the break. The  old handgun was cool but had no buoyancy .. Also the advent of churchil fins were a great advantage over the oldschool duckfins in helping to  preventing leg cramps 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wave Ranch is a smokin’ fast ride.  That day looked like 2-3’ overhead and firing.

Very cool vibe @ Wave Ranch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, random said:

Looks just to uniform.  Bit boring.

Is what it is.   They continue to ramp up the size and power and we got a whole new sport.

Never gonna replace North Shore winters in our minds but, for a bazillion young gamers this slots in nicely to their fantasy worlds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, VOA said:

You call it boring? I say you'd get drilled, wouldn't make the take off.

Yea, I was glad to see Ben G nail his first one.  Jordan was stressing he’d blow the drop.

Some of those righthander Ranch waves rivalled Backdoor for speed and punch.  Not surprising given that Slater was out there. 

They can amp things up when they want to.  I think they want to keep it reasonable, even for the pros, so no one gets mangled in all that apparatus in the back.  Another reason I like Wave Lake in Oz - easier on the eyes. Train & trestle at Ranch a rough look as it is now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How many grams of CO2 are produced each wave?

As interesting as it is watching perfect waves it's an abomination.  Sorry Kelly, it's not what surfing is about.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 When you consider the amortization of the investment and the energy required to drive that sled, I wonder just how much it costs to produce a single wave.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know it takes time to make good gravy, but come on it was 16 minutes before the guy even got wet! And then another 3 minutes until he caught a wave. He knows his way around a tube but could use some help on the editing.

    Interesting that you get an occasional glimpse of the foil just under the surface of the water near the trestle. I'm sure Kelly wants to keep that configuration under wraps. They have done a lot since this video to hide the workings of the sled and foil now that it is getting more video coverage. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're gonna surf a lake, surf Lake Superior. 

Here's a friend of mine paddling into a decent dawn patrol set last January. I didn't take the picture, so can't take credit.

IMG_3565.JPG (1).jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At least the Aussie mushroom makes four waves per splash - that's a great commercial advantage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, longy said:

At least the Aussie mushroom makes four waves per splash - that's a great commercial advantage.

I was thinking the same thing, and since they control the bottom conditions you can get very different waves off each push.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, ajbram said:

If you're gonna surf a lake, surf Lake Superior. 

Here's a friend of mine paddling into a decent dawn patrol set last January. I didn't take the picture, so can't take credit.

IMG_3565.JPG (1).jpeg

Nice !

But you can never find the dead guys this time of year. :mellow:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just drove through Lemoore leaving Sequoia/ Kings Canyon. No sign at the off ramp for the wave pool yet.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hit an afternoon session with my son on saturday after a month of wave-less busy schedules. the waves were nothing close to good, but to be honest, it didn't even matter...sharing sets with your kid regardless of size and shape is the greatest reward in and of itself. then having him tell me on the ride home "the waves weren't great, but thanks dad, we needed that!" was just the icing on the cake

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, aA said:

hit an afternoon session with my son on saturday after a month of wave-less busy schedules. the waves were nothing close to good, but to be honest, it didn't even matter...sharing sets with your kid regardless of size and shape is the greatest reward in and of itself. then having him tell me on the ride home "the waves weren't great, but thanks dad, we needed that!" was just the icing on the cake

Been there...done that....and you're right. Its awesome. He is 40 now. :lol:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Drove past Rincon yesterday aft and was surprised that there were quite a few desperados out in ankle to knee high conditions. I guess the need to get in shape before the big northwests arrive is kicking in.

Also found C street pretty well packed with longboarders all day long.  Can't say I blame them... easy parking and paddle out in beautiful weather.

Alas, I'll be back in Maine tonight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, Bruno said:

Nice how he can make hard cutbacks and keep speed.

His boards just slice & carry like few others.  

One of the Kings of the tribe. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

THIS

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like Mavericks next week....maybe Thursday. Big wave surfers all on their way..........predictions are maybe 50 feet! That’s a big wave. Might have to head up........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Point Break said:

Looks like Mavericks next week

gallery_xlarge.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

H2O missing .................

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Point Break said:

Looks like Mavericks next week....maybe Thursday. Big wave surfers all on their way..........predictions are maybe 50 feet! That’s a big wave. Might have to head up........

Flying out on Sunday afternoon

High surf warning for Bay Area beaches, waves up to 50-feet expected

 

https://www.kron4.com/weather/high-surf-warning-for-bay-area-beaches-waves-up-to-50-feet-expected/1660969148

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pipe Masters 2018

 

 

@ 4:00 - Slater Skills: Falls off in deep, gets back up & finishes in barrel.   See 2 believe.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Surf height
35-50ft
7-10 times overhead
Tide
2.6ft
Low tide 1.4ft
at 12:54pm
Wind
7kts
W (261°)
Swells
22.2ft at 18s WNW 283º
1.1ft at 11s S 190º
0.5ft at 8s SSE 162º
0º45º90º135º180º225º270º315º
 

Water Temp

Maverick's Water Temp56 - 58ºf

Weather

Maverick's Wind & Weather56ºf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two breaks I never, ever, even in my youngest, fittest, wildest youth would have found remotely fun to surf... Mavericks and Shipsterns. They're painful to even watch. I just don't get them.

 

BTW, that clip where Slater falls off, finds his board, gets back up and exits the tube was awe fucking some!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't read the entire thread, but NPR was talking about Kelly Slater's 20 million dollar perfect wave machine that might make surfing like the NFL, have championships all over the world, where everyone surfs the exact same wave, so it becomes a real test of who is best!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kinda takes away from the spontaneity of surfing IMHO.  A lot of judging is how the rider utilizes the wave he gets. If they all get the same wave... who cares?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Slater surfing right now in second semi-final or the Pipe Masters. It will some time before a machine can match the waves that this contest has been held in. Have snowmaking machines on ski mountains ruined ski competition?

Slater lost at the first contest at 'his' wave machine. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, Willin' said:

Two breaks I never, ever, even in my youngest, fittest, wildest youth would have found remotely fun to surf... Mavericks and Shipsterns. They're painful to even watch. I just don't get them.

 

BTW, that clip where Slater falls off, finds his board, gets back up and exits the tube was awe fucking some!

Never seen anyone pull that off , much less stuffed in at Pipe.  Slats throwin’ some for the young bucks to chew on.

Mavs somehow seems doable to about 25’ and after that?   No way.

Shipsterns is psycho.   Wouldn’t want any part of that pit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, blunderfull said:

Never seen anyone pull that off , much less stuffed in at Pipe.  Slats throwin’ some for the young bucks to chew on.

Mavs somehow seems doable to about 25’ and after that?   No way.

Shipsterns is psycho.   Wouldn’t want any part of that pit.

It's just the color of Mavs that turns me off. Always muddy brown, always a cold gray sky and full boots and gloves temps. Oh, and the long assed paddle out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yah, sat up on the bluff one time watching the paddle out. Peak shifts and you’re in for some crazy sheit just getting out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

MSGA

Mavericks Sharks Great Again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I stumbled across this nicely done surf flick for the mainstream on NetFlix a couple of nights ago. Pretty good job of showing the surfer lifestyle and dedication without getting too cliche. I don't remember any surf chicks getting freaky with asphixiation though. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Added that to my Queue, thanks.

Along the same lines, and another Aussie flick, is Drift.

 

Gotta love a film named after my boat!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/18/2018 at 3:38 PM, Point Break said:

I can’t even imagine what taking off on that monster is like.

Can you imagine what falling is like?

When that happens, it becomes clear who really rules the waves, and it's not surfers. It's jet skiers.

F'in privacy settings. Worth watching on Vimeo and anyone who disagrees with me, just let me know what kind of boat you'd be happy to see if you were that guy.

Serious skillz and ballz from both of those guys. I note with amusement that the really good driver who actually got the guy appears to have no PFD of any kind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm amazed that those Jet Skis can get any traction in such aerated waters especially from a dead stop after the poor surfer barely manages to crawl on the sled. Talk about last second to gun the motor. Great work by the rescue guys. It looks like the rescue driver has lots of protective padding under that white pullover and may even have one of the inflatable vests the riders wear. No helmet is a bigger surprize to me.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

I'm amazed that those Jet Skis can get any traction in such aerated waters especially from a dead stop after the poor surfer barely manages to crawl on the sled. Talk about last second to gun the motor. Great work by the rescue guys. It looks like the rescue driver has lots of protective padding under that white pullover and may even have one of the inflatable vests the riders wear. No helmet is a bigger surprize to me.  

I was guessing there's a wetsuit under that white suit. Why wear an inflatable under clothing? Undressing didn't look like a possibility in those conditions.

A white suit? In white foam? So he can stand out, I guess. Whatever, that guy was GOOD and that's one lucky surfer he was that good.

2 hours ago, SailBlueH2O said:

I'd pay big bucks to get an hour on one of those sleds in big waves...

What he's doing is very dangerous but the reason people can get as good as he is may shock sailors: jet ski's are fun to drive! You don't even need life-threatening conditions to make them entertaining, just any old waves will do, or even flat water if you're creative.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites