Rasputin22

Surf Anarchy

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Am I the only guy that remembers a SoCal radio spot, circa late 1970s where a very New York Jewish mother sounding lady is talking about buying a Kowalski Jetski for her son? It was hilarious! It was back in the day when Jewish, Italian, Irish, German  and Polish jokes were not only accepted, they were expected. 

I so remember laughing my ass off hearing it on the radio driving to Trestles for a go out and thinking how no one that thinks jetskis are cool will buy one after listening to this ad.

Or was it a Dr. Demento spot? I dunno man, there were a lot of roaches  in the beanbag ashtray on my van's console back then.

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24 minutes ago, Willin' said:

Am I the only guy that remembers a SoCal radio spot, circa late 1970s where a very New York Jewish mother sounding lady is talking about buying a Kowalski Jetski for her son? It was hilarious! It was back in the day when Jewish, Italian, Irish, German  and Polish jokes were not only accepted, they were expected. 

I so remember laughing my ass off hearing it on the radio driving to Trestles for a go out and thinking how no one that thinks jetskis are cool will buy one after listening to this ad.

Or was it a Dr. Demento spot? I dunno man, there were a lot of roaches  in the beanbag ashtray on my van's console back then.

Demento was on locally in LA (like 1970?) before he was syndicated while I was in the military. I listened later but thought he was on at night? I can’t recall...but he was funny. He must be an old fart now.....

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49439936_10155748977546922_4236696319348965376_n.jpg

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Seeing as this SA and this thread is Surf, I wonder how JJ Florence enjoyed the Sydney to Hobart race on Winning Appliances?

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On 5/8/2018 at 6:34 PM, SailBlueH2O said:

OK...I'll park this vent here not wanting to start a thread...I've loved the water from as long as I can remember...earliest recollection standing on the bottom of a pool  as bubbles from my mouth floated in front of my face  as my fathers legs walked toward me after I raised my hands in a floating ring and slipped to the bottom . Fast forward...a millennial mom next door the past 3 years gives "drown proofing"  lessons to very young children, many  millennial moms have their expensive rides parked at the curb  ...maybe I don't hear the ones that don't cry in the same voice....3 years the same voice, universal cry of panic !....in any other millennial judgmental court this would be torture and marches organized for barbaric practice .... I can still feel the anxiousness waiting to be allowed back into the water...WTF are these kids going to feel the same ?...

I hear you.  I too love the water more than anything in nature (I hate mountains).  I almost drowned in a little lake with my parents sitting about 20 feet away, when I was around 2 years old.  I wasn't at all panicked, my father said I was just lying there calmly floating face down in about 2' of water.  After the initial shock, I don't think my parents made a big deal about it and in the later years it was just another family story.  I have never had any fear of the water and I was a reasonably good swimmer in my youth, having grown up on the shores of Lake Erie.

I am all for child safety but I think people nowadays overreact to many situations when it comes to kids.  Teach them common sense but don't scare the shit out of the little buggers!

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On 1/9/2019 at 7:00 PM, Ed Lada said:

I hear you.  I too love the water more than anything in nature (I hate mountains).  I almost drowned in a little lake with my parents sitting about 20 feet away, when I was around 2 years old.  I wasn't at all panicked, my father said I was just lying there calmly floating face down in about 2' of water.  After the initial shock, I don't think my parents made a big deal about it and in the later years it was just another family story.  I have never had any fear of the water and I was a reasonably good swimmer in my youth, having grown up on the shores of Lake Erie.

I am all for child safety but I think people nowadays overreact to many situations when it comes to kids.  Teach them common sense but don't scare the shit out of the little buggers!

to teach it, one must have it in first place. and common sense is tragically not so common nowadays...

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1 hour ago, Trovão said:

to teach it, one must have it in first place. and common sense is tragically not so common nowadays...

 

common_sense_-_so_rare_its_a_god_damn_super_power.jpg

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On 1/10/2019 at 10:00 AM, Ed Lada said:

I hear you.  I too love the water more than anything in nature (I hate mountains).  I almost drowned in a little lake with my parents sitting about 20 feet away, when I was around 2 years old.  I wasn't at all panicked, my father said I was just lying there calmly floating face down in about 2' of water.  After the initial shock, I don't think my parents made a big deal about it and in the later years it was just another family story.  I have never had any fear of the water and I was a reasonably good swimmer in my youth, having grown up on the shores of Lake Erie.

I am all for child safety but I think people nowadays overreact to many situations when it comes to kids.  Teach them common sense but don't scare the shit out of the little buggers!

My wife teaches babies (parents), toddlers a lot. She also has no problem ripping teachers that have screaming kids a new one. If they aren’t enjoying it or are scared you are doing it wrong. 

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10 hours ago, VWAP said:

 

https://www.sanluisobispo.com/news/local/article224117535.html

‘It had one of my legs in its mouth’: How surfer escaped shark attack at Montaña de Oro

Another story on this referred to the attack as     a “exploratory bite.“.  After a near bleed out and 50 stitches, pretty sure “type” of attack ain’t real important to the story.   FFS.

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  The 'real' bite involves a LOT of side to side head shaking, which lets the teeth cut right thru anything (almost) that's between them. So it does matter. GW are apparently very cautious about injuring themselves, so the tentative "tasting' nip is common.

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2 hours ago, longy said:

  The 'real' bite involves a LOT of side to side head shaking, which lets the teeth cut right thru anything (almost) that's between them. So it does matter. GW are apparently very cautious about injuring themselves, so the tentative "tasting' nip is common.

Of course but, this reads to me like a Mick Fanning story.  The kid fought/kicked with his free leg while in the jaws of that beast.  That’s some badass stuff.

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Holy shit! That's a hard wave to read! 

We're going to Portugal in March. Even my wife wants to go up to Nazare' for a few days to see this.

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Big days are loud......I can’t even imagine what that monster sounds like as the lip is pitching over behind you....

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That shot of three waves breaking with riders and skis was insane.   That place gets more surreal everytime you see new footage like this.   

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2 hours ago, Willin' said:

Holy shit! That's a hard wave to read! 

We're going to Portugal in March. Even my wife wants to go up to Nazare' for a few days to see this.

Yea, long time cutting across the top section till he dropped in.  Looks like he kept hopping down off little ramp sections to keep his speed up.   Guy took off like a rocket once he dove into the beast.

Post your trip to Nazare if you would.?  Would dig seeing the ins/outs of that trip.   Much want to do same some day.

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1 hour ago, Point Break said:

Big days are loud......I can’t even imagine what that monster sounds like as the lip is pitching over behind you....

Wonder if those guys even notice the roar?   Prolly dialed in to the drop and staying upright off the bumps.   

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On 12/19/2018 at 1:28 AM, Rasputin22 said:

I stumbled across this nicely done surf flick for the mainstream on NetFlix a couple of nights ago. Pretty good job of showing the surfer lifestyle and dedication without getting too cliche. I don't remember any surf chicks getting freaky with asphixiation though. 

 

Yep great film. Shot just down the road from me in and around Denmark on the South Coast of WA. Glad you enjoyed it and glad it's on Netflix in the US. Shame it isn't on the Aussie version yet :(

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7 hours ago, blunderfull said:

Jacuzzi Surfer with big chops on his drone work @ BIG Nazarre.  

 

I want to see more of what came next after some of the aborts and falls. Some looked like they were in kinda bad places for a swim with a surfboard.

How did people do it before jet ski's?

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Well, as a result of this thread I've gone ahead and ordered a new Fourth Gear Flyer surf mat. I'd been thinking of building a Grain Paipo for winter use when we go south but the mat just makes so much more sense from a transport perspective. 

Got a nice personal note from the owner letting me know he's building it now and will ship it this week. Nice business model, that.

lhttp://www.surfmats.com/vespa-roundtail.html

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Surfmats? I called them rafts as a kid. I had one like the Classic at the link. I jumped on it enough times that all the seams gave up and it became nearly cylindrical. Balancing on top of it got very difficult.

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this is the only surf mat i know of

 

418njM3vpgL._SX466_.jpg

 

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Getting a matt back out to the line up can be really hard - if there's no way out around the waves. 

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On 1/16/2019 at 3:03 AM, dogballs Tom said:

I want to see more of what came next after some of the aborts and falls. Some looked like they were in kinda bad places for a swim with a surfboard.

How did people do it before jet ski's?

This.

I can also tell you it’s REALLY tough to swim in that much white water. All that aerated foamy soup doesn’t give much “traction” in swim motions. 

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8 hours ago, Point Break said:

I can also tell you it’s REALLY tough to swim in that much white water. All that aerated foamy soup doesn’t give much “traction” in swim motions. 

The closest I have come was one day as a boy in New Smyrna Beach when a tropical storm was passing by offshore. The adults reacted by mixing gin fizzes and the kids reacted by going bodysurfing. The waves were yuge by Florida standards. I remember trying to find and ride the smallest ones and swimming very hard to get out of a rip. If we were not all on swim teams we'd have probably died.

The captioning in the video is funny. It says the jet ski can't rescue him, then it does. OK, so it could. Still leaves me wondering how this was done before they were around.

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Remember the term 'waterman'?  People like Jose Angel (RIP), Titus Kinimaka and of course Eddie were watermen. They dove deep, paddled and swam hard and went when most others wouldn't. They were essentially fearless due to a lifetime doing all kinds of water activities in all kinds of conditions without support.

Watch the guys out at Nazare' sometime. In addition to ski drivers for tow and catch, they have pfds and bailout bottles. Sure they have huevos  grande, but I think they'd mostly be dead or a lot more conservative without all the gadgetry.

I think, especially in light of the proliferation of wave pools, that we may be seeing the last generation of watermen aging out right now.

 

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4 minutes ago, Willin' said:

I think, especially in light of the proliferation of wave pools, that we may be seeing the last generation of watermen aging out right now.

 

I understand that view but I attended a informal lifeguard reunion (mostly Class of 76) a few years ago and the current crop of "kids" are every bit as good watermen as any (of course we didn't tell them that :lol:)......in fact there are some legitimate bad asses - men and women - in that new group. New tools but no less tough and ocean savy. The tradition of good watermen is in safe hands.

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2 hours ago, Willin' said:

Remember the term 'waterman'?  People like Jose Angel (RIP), Titus Kinimaka and of course Eddie were watermen. They dove deep, paddled and swam hard and went when most others wouldn't. They were essentially fearless due to a lifetime doing all kinds of water activities in all kinds of conditions without support.

Watch the guys out at Nazare' sometime. In addition to ski drivers for tow and catch, they have pfds and bailout bottles. Sure they have huevos  grande, but I think they'd mostly be dead or a lot more conservative without all the gadgetry.

I think, especially in light of the proliferation of wave pools, that we may be seeing the last generation of watermen aging out right now.

 

Today people are surfing spots never even thought about back then. And don't forget how Angel died - complete dis regard for decompression tables, chasing black coral. Quite a few 'watermen'  died that way off Maui chasing coral.

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1 hour ago, longy said:

Today people are surfing spots never even thought about back then. And don't forget how Angel died - complete dis regard for decompression tables, chasing black coral. Quite a few 'watermen'  died that way off Maui chasing coral.

My understanding was he was free diving, but he would tie a big rock to his chest to get down in a hurry. No decompression needed, however a fundamental knowledge of good knot tying is required.

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300' maybe deeper for his last dive, previously bent bad in '74, which pushed him more into diving as surfing was very difficult.  Supposedly you can't get bent free diving, not enuff time or gas in the lungs to fill the bloodstream.  All the record free dives I've seen (t-tube) are bounce dives. And below 120-150 ft even in the channels it's dark, & harvesting coral took lights, lift bags & hammer

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Its important to point out some of those really big spots were not surfable until the advent of PWC & tow in surfing. Cortes is a good example. Speaking of Cortes.......check out this Nat Geo about a very unique big wave. A couple of guys who qualify as watermen here...........BTW - one of the guys is one of our firefighters now.

 

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13 hours ago, Point Break said:

Its important to point out some of those really big spots were not surfable until the advent of PWC & tow in surfing.

That answers my question, thanks.

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Portugese coast on alert friday.   Bay Biscay 20-25’ -which scales up to ~80’ @ Nazare.

 

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9 minutes ago, blunderfull said:

Portugese coast on alert friday.   Bay Biscay 20-25’ -which scales up to ~80’ @ Nazare.

 

Does not appeal to me at all....

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I pulled a tick off my dog that looked like that!:D

Watching the attempts to duck dive brought a couple of smiles!

I

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That guy sure makes surfing gin clear water look easy.

I was stationed at Key West for 6 months when I was in the Navy. There was a little point on the base that could actually break rideable wind waves when the wind came out of the west. 

It's fricking hard to hit a bottom turn in water that clear and harder still knowing when to kick out. I broke a couple fins  on the broken coral beach there. 

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4 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

This shows that you don't have to have big waves to have fun!

 

Sweet......

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36 minutes ago, Rasputin22 said:

How about some nice mellow distaff surfing?

 

Where Corky?

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12 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

How about some nice mellow distaff surfing?

 

Song still gives me chills.....drove a 16 year old boys imagination Mad~~~~~~

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13 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

How about some nice mellow distaff surfing?

 

i was in sayulita last week...didn't run into those girls though :D

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I loved surfing that whole stretch between Punta Mita and Punta Raza. Used to hire a panga off the beach at Playa la Manzanilla. Get the right one and it will have a little bimini and hibachi. Load up with beers and chow from the restaurant and spend the day anchoring at surf spot after surf spot and eating/drinking in between. Finish off with beers (see a theme?) and dinner at the open air "restaurant" on the beach before heading back to the hotel (on the bus :o) in Vallarta. Wonder if that's all still there.............I hear they developed Punta Mita with a 4 Seasons etc. Bet that ruined everything.

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Now that I'm old......der........and into "Janitor Surfing", I'll just leave this here...................

 

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14 minutes ago, Point Break said:

I loved surfing that whole stretch between Punta Mita and Punta Raza. Used to hire a panga off the beach at Playa la Manzanilla. Get the right one and it will have a little bimini and hibachi. Load up with beers and chow from the restaurant and spend the day anchoring at surf spot after surf spot and eating/drinking in between. Finish off with beers (see a theme?) and dinner at the open air "restaurant" on the beach before heading back to the hotel (on the bus :o) in Vallarta. Wonder if that's all still there.............I hear they developed Punta Mita with a 4 Seasons etc. Bet that ruined everything.

punta minta has gone pretty upscale...all inclusives and the like.  sayulita itself seems pretty expensive now....pretty hard for "surf bums" to live and surf cheap now.

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1 hour ago, chester said:

punta minta has gone pretty upscale...all inclusives and the like.  sayulita itself seems pretty expensive now....pretty hard for "surf bums" to live and surf cheap now.

Too bad............it was perfect back then. Good people....good waves....VERY inexpensive.....no shirt or shoes required.....slow easy living on a VERY slow trip to Costa Rica (didn't make it to Costa Rica...but that's for another time).

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1 hour ago, Point Break said:

Too bad............it was perfect back then. Good people....good waves....VERY inexpensive.....no shirt or shoes required.....slow easy living on a VERY slow trip to Costa Rica (didn't make it to Costa Rica...but that's for another time).

I have a condo rented right on the beach in front of Stinky's (right next to the panga harbor) in Punta Mita from 04/30 thru 05/06. I'm going there to fish for 3 days. But they rent SUPs on the beach and I may try to SUP surf the ankle slappers at Stinky's. 

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Reno Abellira is homeless on the streets of Costa Mesa.   FFS is their someone out there to give him a lifeline?   He’s 69 years old.  Forget the past history - he’s bottomed out.  

Think about how iconic his image & surfing, along with Lopez & Brewer,  were for us.   This is f’ed up.   Really sad.

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On 2/26/2019 at 2:28 AM, Rasputin22 said:

Tea Tree Bay, Noosa,  Sunshine Coast 

Image result for Tea Tree, Noosa

 

 

On 2/26/2019 at 2:31 AM, Rasputin22 said:

Those rocks look pretty gnarly at that size!

Those waves in the vid uploaded by trt131 are actually at the ‘boiling pot’ which is located between ‘national park’ and ‘ti tree bay’ .Ti tree bay can be seen as a separate wave behind some of the shots. (Apologies for my pedanticism!)

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Image result for reno abellira

l-r:   Eddie Aikau, Rory Russell,  Gerry Lopez,  Larry Bertleman,  Michael Ho,  Reno Abellira

 

 

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That vid was awesome, B-full! Too bad all my childhood heroes got old though!

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51 minutes ago, Willin' said:

That vid was awesome, B-full! Too bad all my childhood heroes got old though!

Yes.   

I’m hoping someone who remembers those Good Vibes will get stuck in on Reno’s probs. He had his cars impounded by police and then ends up homeless.  No one should be taken down that low by DMV issues- if that’s all it is.

Remember Buttons?   Wishing to see this end before it gets that bad.

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Here is a blast from the past! Rory Russell.

    I bothered me how much he sounded like Drunken Uncle on SNL but he still knows how to shape and glass a fine Pipe tool!

 

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On 3/4/2019 at 6:08 PM, Rasputin22 said:

Here is a blast from the past! Rory Russell.

    I bothered me how much he sounded like Drunken Uncle on SNL but he still knows how to shape and glass a fine Pipe tool!

 

That was fun! Still stoked after all these years.

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On 3/4/2019 at 3:08 PM, Rasputin22 said:

Here is a blast from the past! Rory Russell.

    I bothered me how much he sounded like Drunken Uncle on SNL but he still knows how to shape and glass a fine Pipe tool!

 

Good lord.............when I lived in Capistrano, I surfed Sano nearly everyday for decades.....haven't been down there for a number of years (8 or 9) since I moved to north county its not a real convenient drive....this made me miss it. "BBQ" breakfast bacon and egg burrito's after the morning session while enjoying the sun.............gonna have to call some old buddies who still live down there and arrange a session.

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Interesting that this came into my feed the same day I saw that Rory Russell vid. I guess if Lopez says this is the future it must be, but I'd have a hard time keeping the stoke alive on a 6 hour drive through the central valley to get to 'that' ranch as opposed to 'the' ranch'.

 

I also noticed that in the earlier vid, Rory's boards had a lightning bolt on them. I wonder if he got the trademark rights and if there's bad blood as a result. Enquiring minds...

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4 minutes ago, Willin' said:

Interesting that this came into my feed the same day I saw that Rory Russell vid. I guess if Lopez says this is the future it must be, but I'd have a hard time keeping the stoke alive on a 6 hour drive through the central valley to get to 'that' ranch as opposed to 'the' ranch'.

 

Maybe for surf contests.........same wave for everybody....kinda like one design racing I suppose. Even that would be sad.....takes away wave selection etc as a variable. Then instead of a waterman you're just a technician. Surfing is about a lot more than just the wave. Its about being in intimate contact with the ocean. Sitting in the lineup between sets, sun on your back, just sitting. Dolphin, seals.......the smell and sound. The beach before and after with a cold one. No..........its not the future of surfing...not the surfing I know.

It would be nice if it pulls some folks out of the lineup though. :lol:

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On 1/16/2019 at 1:26 AM, blunderfull said:

Yea, long time cutting across the top section till he dropped in.  Looks like he kept hopping down off little ramp sections to keep his speed up.   Guy took off like a rocket once he dove into the beast.

Post your trip to Nazare if you would.?  Would dig seeing the ins/outs of that trip.   Much want to do same some day.

Well, we did the trip up to Nazare' from the Algarve. I knew we were nearing the end of the winter swell season but thought it would be an interesting tourist stop anyhow.  Four hours of driving for not very much reward,  but still glad we did it. It's a hard place to shoot due to the topography even with good photo gear which is why most of the photos of big waves from the land look the same. I got nothing for surf shots, so here's a little travelogue.

Basically, Nazare' is a humble fishing village nestled on the southern flank of a massive headland. The town has a broad sandy, featureless beach,  a nice harbor of mostly fishing boats and a not very charming demeanor. It reminds me of Avalon, a long stretch of beachfront restaurants and bars , a wonderful small mercado full of fresh caught fish,  produce and meat, and not much else. It was a local tourist destination during the summer months and a ghost town the rest of the year until McNamara surfed it big for the first time in 2011. Since then, the town has realized there's big $$$ in surf tourism and is embracing the new wave of international attention. Quite a bit of new hotel construction on the south end.

enhance

  The fort at Nazare' has been turned into a big wave surfing museum/ shrine. There are two rooms enshrining the boards of big wave riders that have surfed there, from full on rhino chasers to tow in strappers to boogies, each with a bio of the surfer. There's still a very strong body boarder presence, since they were there first, and a surprising number of woman big wave surfers. They also have a fascinating  room dedicated to explaining the genesis of the waves including bathymetry/ hydrology and swell generation that has only been documented since 2011. Unfortunately the whole beautiful headland has been desecrated, OK that may be excessive, but the locals seem to have given up on good taste in the rush for schlocky tourist bucks...

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The north side of the headland is the completely undeveloped Praia do Norte, which stretches for miles. It has been the habitat of body boarders since the 70s and 80s, but the fat, slopy waves don't seem to draw much attention from surfers until things get huge. On this day it was a mushy 8 to 10' slight onshore and there were only 3 boogie boarders out.

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The very small, fairly charming village of Sitio abuts the cathedral and fort on the headland and is a nice place for a meal or a drink or two, but after two days, and lacking any hope of a big swell rolling in, we bailed and headed down to Lisbon for our last 2 days of vacay. 

ETA, we stopped into the town of Peniche, about 30 k down the coast, on our way out. This was a full on surf beach town. We saw at least 10 different small, clean breaks working in the 2-3k  drive around the peninsula, and a number of surf shops. I only saw one surf shop in Nazare' and it looked to be closed for the season .already

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Ya beat me to it. File this under how not to rescue/ recover your surfer.

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I'm amazed that the ski driver was able to accelerate out from right under the falling lip from a dead start after snagging the surfer. Looked like he had made it until getting inside where the water was so aeriated that his jet pump started cavitating. Not sure cavitating is even the proper term because the foam just didn't provide any traction to the forward drive of the pump. The backwash from the shorebreak then started launching them until that there was little hope of just running the ski up on the sand. All three, the surfer, rescue driver and the waverunner are remarkably tough units! 

     I would call it a day after that...

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12 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

All three, the surfer, rescue driver and the waverunner are remarkably tough units! 

I liked that the machine self-rescued and made it ashore upright while the surfers were still struggling. Not a lawn darting but impressive design. Getting hit by a breaker like that would be the last thing that happened to most boats.

 

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Nice paddle in action at several big, cold spots...

 

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Not exactly surf oriented, but still awful pretty to watch...

 

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