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Alex W

sourcing phenolic or g10 bushing?

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Colligo uses electrically isolating G10 or similar bushings in some of their hardware.  You can see one here:

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Where can I order such bushings?  The vang tang on my boom has an elongated hole, and I want to ream it out one size and use such a bushing between the pin and tang.  In a backup I can use stainless with lots of tefgel, but I'd prefer something electrically isolated since the boom and vang tang are aluminum.

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mcmaster-carr has lots of g10 tubing

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They do, but nothing with that thin of a wall.  I can machine it out, but hate abusing my lathe by working with g10 (the dust is quite abrasive).

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It's not that bad. It's not abuse to use a tool. Yes, it will wear a drill or cutting tool but that is why you have stores to buy new ones.

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21 minutes ago, Zonker said:

It's not that bad. It's not abuse to use a tool. Yes, it will wear a drill or cutting tool but that is why you have stores to buy new ones.

If you're worried about abrasive damage to anything except the consumables, couldn't you just rig up a dust extractor at the the least a shop vac to catch most of it? 

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Another thought is to use a drill bit rather than a single point cutter to keep the chip size large and easier to police.

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It’s the abrasive dust on the ways that I’m less of a fan of. My lathe is an old south bend without hardened ways.  I don’t care about wear on a drill bit, those are easy to sharpen  

I also emailed Ballenger to see what a new tang sells for, a lot of the options for G10 come with about 50x more material than I need and so are a bit spendy. 

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I was thinking that the drill bit would generate much less dust than a single point cutter. Ditto on a shop vac mounted near the business end of the tool to draw the chips/dust before they can fall on the ways.

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Alex, I'm with you on the dust, if I have to do it I lay rags or paper towels on the ways under the chuck, and run the vacuum on it while I drill/turn. The other thing I've done making G10 bushings (and I've made a lot...) is make some quick soft jaws for a drill vice and do it in the drill press. Couple pieces of aluminum in the jaws, space with 1/16 scrap, drill for the OD, remove the scrap and now you can do two or three a minute. I'll hot melt glue the alu to the jaws if I'm doing a few. 

But for that purpose, why not use PEEK? It isn't quite the compressive strength of G10, but pretty good - maybe 20 KSI. Machines beautifully and the black stuff seems to last quite a while even in the sun (which isn't a problem in Seattle :)). McMaster has it, not a cheap plastic but if you don't need much....

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Thanks, I didn’t know about PEEK. That looks like a good option and short drops are reasonable on eBay. UV isn’t an issue both because I’m in Seattle and because the vang completely covers the bushing. 

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That kevlar tube looks great, but the smallest ID is .5", too big for any pin on my boat.  Some 1/4" ID non-conductive bushings would be really handy for dealing with wallowed holes in Al castings.

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Can anyone in Australia point me in the right direction as to where I can purchase G10 plate ? On line searches haven't been too successful and visits to electrical suppliers are showing me plate that I think contains asbestos .

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3 hours ago, Justaquickone said:

Can anyone in Australia point me in the right direction as to where I can purchase G10 plate ? On line searches haven't been too successful and visits to electrical suppliers are showing me plate that I think contains asbestos .

try searching on FRP   instead of g10...  same diff

 

 

oh and going back to the OP, I don't understand why people just don't call the manuf. first,  I have had several ship me parts for free...   why go through a lot of hassle for diy

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I did and it’s not free. The price is reasonable but the repair was less hassle since I don’t need to take the boom apart again. 

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14 hours ago, Justaquickone said:

Can anyone in Australia point me in the right direction as to where I can purchase G10 plate ? On line searches haven't been too successful and visits to electrical suppliers are showing me plate that I think contains asbestos .

I got thin stuff from ausrocketry.com.au, good price and service.

 

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23 hours ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

try searching on FRP   instead of g10...  same diff

 

 

oh and going back to the OP, I don't understand why people just don't call the manuf. first,  I have had several ship me parts for free...   why go through a lot of hassle for diy

 

12 hours ago, Fleetwood said:

I got thin stuff from ausrocketry.com.au, good price and service.

 

Thanks GMD & Fleetwood , hopefully has pointed me in the right direction .

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Igus has a lot of sleeve and flanged bearings and bushings that might meet your needs.  Thin walls and a range diameters and lengths,  McMaster sells some of them, but they have  a lot more options

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On 6/16/2018 at 8:20 AM, Justaquickone said:

Can anyone in Australia point me in the right direction as to where I can purchase G10 plate ? On line searches haven't been too successful and visits to electrical suppliers are showing me plate that I think contains asbestos .

I have just finished a job with 20mm thick Isoval 11 (similar to g10 but epoxy & up a notch) and they cut the part I needed from a .DXF file from an AutoCAD drawing I did of the part. They have all the g10 stuff and more, see the link.

Associated Gaskets at Revesby.  They are very helpful & worth a call. Ask for their tech bloke.

Phone 02 9774 3333

http://agaus.com.au/contact-ag/

Cheers,

Jim B)

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I was worried about one of those breaking under the load.  There has clearly been enough load to distort the aluminum over time.

I bought a small piece of PEEK at DDW's suggestion and made a bushing on the lathe.  I guess you can ask me in a year or two how it is holding up.  PEEK was nice to work with.

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