Alcatraz5768

Bottom paint dust removal

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OMG im a fucking idiot. i dry sanded the bottom paint off my boat, and didn't immediately wash off the deck, now a week later i climb up there and its covered with antifoam dust. Luckily its gotten wet then the suns come out for a couple of days, so its pretty well stuck.

Does anyone know what cleaner to use to scrub it off? Thanks in advance, Dave

 

 

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That's pretty extreme for paint that wasn't cured on the surface. Have you tried pressure washing? Assuming it's a copper based paint, perhaps treat with dilute acid (e.g. vinegar)?

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Same thing just happened to me. I bought an electric pressure washer for $99 at Lowes. That, some boat soap, some West Marine fiberglass stain remover, a little Soft Scrub, and four hours of elbow grease got about 99% of it off. I have a few soft spots to repair so the whole deck will be painted next year when I do that. Until then I can live with my results. No one but me can tell the deck was ever covered in bottom paint dust. The worst thing is that I had brought plastic to the yard to cover the deck. I just dove in and forgot about it. SMH—at myself.  

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dont panic team, stop looking. I spent an hour with a long handled brush and some simple green, cream cleanser combo, and got it clean. Theres still a bit of black shit on the non skid but i think thats from the neighbours tree so ill lay on some wet-and-forget this week. 

Good as a year ago, not as good as 2 years ago. Goddamn time flies.

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You should always hang a wind screen from the top when sanding the bottom.

Many boat yards require this because of other boats in the yard.
In fact many yards (states) do not allow you the owner to sand your bottom because the dust is considered toxic.

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Vacuum on the sander is important!  Shouldn't be much dust with that+mesh abrasives for next time... Also helps if the decks are recently waxed.  

For this time I'd use something more than the normal boat soap.  Sudbury Boat Soap Plus or something similar(non skid cleaners) should work fairly well, they seem to lift better than a straight soap for paint dust that is potentially staining.  Vacuum dry first to get what will move moved before washing.   If there's a bunch of small areas that just won't come up after, magic eraser them with a dilute degreaser, wash the whole thing and re-polish.  I found this to be usually faster and less agressive than sanding, works better on non-skid too. 

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Tricky to fit a vac to a 8" sanding disc on a full size rupee polisher. Fast though. 

 I hosed off the hull after but completely forgot about the deck. Out of sight out of mind I suppose. 

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18 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Boats at home bro. 

that's cool and all , but that shit is bad news , the shit in that paint is toxic.. you shouldn't be breathing or touching that crap..   before spraying that shit everywhere with the pressure washer, i would shop vac whatever a  i could..  then get some DAWN dishwashing liquid soap if you have it there and a scrub brush and go at what's left carefully.

if you got critters that roam your yard you probably want to blow or wash that off everything back there..

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I know. Not my first rodeo, kept it contained as much as possible whilst still getting the job actually done, Dog found some and ate it and vommited on my fucking bed, so that serves me right for not locking her away. Probably the worst job so far. 

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On 6/24/2018 at 10:42 PM, Alcatraz5768 said:

Tricky to fit a vac to a 8" sanding disc on a full size rupee polisher. Fast though. 

 I hosed off the hull after but completely forgot about the deck. Out of sight out of mind I suppose. 

That dust loves the deck.  If you can't control the dust at sanding time easily, waxing away from the waterline area just before will make cleanup a lot easier.  Even half-assing it with a quick wash with wash and wax soap can save a few oh shits when somebody leaves the bag out of the vac...

Biggest shroud I know of is a 7" so that's a no go. 

Got any photos of your setup with the pad on the polisher? 

 

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On 6/29/2018 at 3:14 PM, jgbrown said:

That dust loves the deck.  If you can't control the dust at sanding time easily, waxing away from the waterline area just before will make cleanup a lot easier.  Even half-assing it with a quick wash with wash and wax soap can save a few oh shits when somebody leaves the bag out of the vac...

Biggest shroud I know of is a 7" so that's a no go. 

Got any photos of your setup with the pad on the polisher? 

 

200mm velcro discs. 200mm velcro foam backing pad that just screws on. Gold 

IMG_1918.JPG

IMG_1919.JPG

IMG_1920.JPG

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On 6/25/2018 at 1:05 PM, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

it must be great to have a boat near you,  spreading toxic dust around to your neighbors..  nothing like airborn  biocides and copper..   it ain't that hard to deal with

 

116429-438x.jpg?1264886251

Nice looking dust collectors. How do you make sure that the dust gets from the point where the abrasive meets the paint and into the hose?

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On 6/28/2018 at 11:14 PM, jgbrown said:

Biggest shroud I know of is a 7" so that's a no go. 

Got any photos of your setup with the pad on the polisher? 

 

Is there one that you recommend JGB? I'm in the market.

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That one in the photo is the Bomb Diggity for antifoal removal, as long as you are ready to get covered in shit and hose everything down later. Not EPA approved in any way and probably unsafe at any level, but it sure gets the job done fast, and that job sucks dick, (not the good sort).

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3 hours ago, Monkey Butler said:

Is there one that you recommend JGB? I'm in the market.

Yup, there's only one I'd recommend.  I've tried a half dozen variations and only one works well IMO, especially overhead.  Unfortunately they have changed the design recently so it's not as good(went from nuts to C-clips and bored out the hex section that held the nuts). which used to be very helpful since that allowed you to adjust how it 'floated'.  

The key benefits:

It's clear polycarbonate so you can see wtf is going on.

It has a removeable section, they use it for getting close to walls in concrete, but it's very handy for glass where precise is important and you can live with a little dust getting out.

The best backing plates are the rubber ones with a taller shaft section with a hex profile to the locking ring that puts the  pad slightly farther from the grinder. 

http://www.dustlesstools.com/productdetails/D1850/GrindingShrouds.php

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On 7/3/2018 at 1:52 AM, jgbrown said:

Yup, there's only one I'd recommend.  I've tried a half dozen variations and only one works well IMO, especially overhead.  Unfortunately they have changed the design recently so it's not as good(went from nuts to C-clips and bored out the hex section that held the nuts). which used to be very helpful since that allowed you to adjust how it 'floated'.  

The key benefits:

It's clear polycarbonate so you can see wtf is going on.

It has a removeable section, they use it for getting close to walls in concrete, but it's very handy for glass where precise is important and you can live with a little dust getting out.

The best backing plates are the rubber ones with a taller shaft section with a hex profile to the locking ring that puts the  pad slightly farther from the grinder. 

http://www.dustlesstools.com/productdetails/D1850/GrindingShrouds.php

Thanks JGB I will be ordering one of these. It does look interesting.

On 7/3/2018 at 3:37 PM, jamhass said:

This one with a GOOD shop vac works great.

https://www.toolbarn.com/portercable-97466.html

My boatyard only allows owners to use (and rent) their own Festool sander and vacuum.  But when I showed them how fast and clean the PC sander worked, they allowed me to use my own setup.

jamhass. I'm going to be taking off the gelcoat as well as the bottom paint. I'm going to need to use a big 7" right angle grinder. For doing bottom paint only though that looks pretty good. I have a Bosch that is similar but the guard must have sucked because I don't have it. I must have thrown it away.

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19 minutes ago, Monkey Butler said:

Thanks JGB I will be ordering one of these. It does look interesting.

jamhass. I'm going to be taking off the gelcoat as well as the bottom paint. I'm going to need to use a big 7" right angle grinder. For doing bottom paint only though that looks pretty good. I have a Bosch that is similar but the guard must have sucked because I don't have it. I must have thrown it away.

Do yourself a big favour and don't dick around with cheap pads.  Always amazes me how many people will go out and spring huge money on a grinder, then buy cheap pads at the auto shop.  Given the grinder is basically just there to spin the pad... 3M Cubitron II 36+ and 80+ grit pads.  Purely on a cost point of view they are worth it, nevermind the added speed and reduced arm pain.  Just watch your hands, they make the regular pads look friendly if they bite, nasty sharp points on em.

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3 minutes ago, jgbrown said:

Do yourself a big favour and don't dick around with cheap pads.  Always amazes me how many people will go out and spring huge money on a grinder, then buy cheap pads at the auto shop.  Given the grinder is basically just there to spin the pad... 3M Cubitron II 36+ and 80+ grit pads.  Purely on a cost point of view they are worth it, nevermind the added speed and reduced arm pain.  Just watch your hands, they make the regular pads look friendly if they bite, nasty sharp points on em.

You call 'em pads, I call 'em discs. I work for a 3M distributor and I scored some samples of the Cubitron II. They are amazing. I also got a bunch of dead stock discontinued 3M "Green Corp" discs which work almost as well as the Cubitron so I'll be using those to start.

But, yeah, crappy abrasives will wear you out mentally and physically.

Like you say, good discs be like Honey Badger, they don't care bout nuthin'. BTDT. Hey, you have any tricks for doing the tuck where the keel and hull meet? TIA. 

IMG_20150629_201431.thumb.jpg.60a8a0baefbf3d0e3bea22acc7c1ba08.jpg

 

 

IMG_20150627_185749.thumb.jpg.5bc3776153b86c1e3a709db998f0b719.jpg

 

IMG_20150627_220130.jpg.93334f812d8683e8ced3c7b6d2812cc5.jpg

 

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16 hours ago, Monkey Butler said:

You call 'em pads, I call 'em discs. I work for a 3M distributor and I scored some samples of the Cubitron II. They are amazing. I also got a bunch of dead stock discontinued 3M "Green Corp" discs which work almost as well as the Cubitron so I'll be using those to start.

But, yeah, crappy abrasives will wear you out mentally and physically.

Like you say, good discs be like Honey Badger, they don't care bout nuthin'. BTDT. Hey, you have any tricks for doing the tuck where the keel and hull meet? TIA. 

IMG_20150629_201431.thumb.jpg.60a8a0baefbf3d0e3bea22acc7c1ba08.jpg

 

 

IMG_20150627_185749.thumb.jpg.5bc3776153b86c1e3a709db998f0b719.jpg

 

IMG_20150627_220130.jpg.93334f812d8683e8ced3c7b6d2812cc5.jpg

 

I never liked the green corps ones much, not as much shape to the grains, they make dust just as fast but imo wear out quicker and don't remove as much per pass. Can't argue with free though and change them out often and you can get almost the same rate. 

Couple general thoughts.  The more the surface changes in a given area, the smaller the tool that will fit.  2 and 3" 36+ rolocs on a right angle air grinder or a Milwaukee m12 buffer/grinder on a 2" backing pad work well.  A bit of flexible plastic in between on the 3s and the edge will flex nicely.  If really tight a die grinder and flap wheel work nice at an angle.  Change out before the flaps wear down to be so tight that they don't flex around.  Going to a finer grit(80) can help too.  

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On 7/3/2018 at 1:52 AM, jgbrown said:

Yup, there's only one I'd recommend.  I've tried a half dozen variations and only one works well IMO, especially overhead.  Unfortunately they have changed the design recently so it's not as good(went from nuts to C-clips and bored out the hex section that held the nuts). which used to be very helpful since that allowed you to adjust how it 'floated'.  

The key benefits:

It's clear polycarbonate so you can see wtf is going on.

It has a removeable section, they use it for getting close to walls in concrete, but it's very handy for glass where precise is important and you can live with a little dust getting out.

The best backing plates are the rubber ones with a taller shaft section with a hex profile to the locking ring that puts the  pad slightly farther from the grinder. 

http://www.dustlesstools.com/productdetails/D1850/GrindingShrouds.php

jgbrown, took your advice and tried out the DustBuddie. Love it. Thank You.

See my review at this link: 

 

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