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Steve

repainting oxidized molded non skid

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I have perfectly good molded non skid that is oxidized and needs to be sealed to stop it washing down over the windows. I have looked into kiwigrip but at 80ft2 coverage for about 600ft2 its a bit pricy, interdeck would be ok but very limited colors available and I don't want to highlight the non skid. I painted the smooths with oyster white quantum 99 last year and really just want to seal the non skid with oyster white also so. In my experience anything darker than some shade of white just gets too hot. So, it seems that everyone re doing non skid uses some type of other non skid but what im wondering is if I already have a good, reasonably aggressive molded non skid could I just roll on a coat of awlgrip to lock in the oxidation without adding any paticles, without making it slippery. It seems to me that it should not be any more so than when it was new as it was just the same texture that provided the non skid properties. I'm doing it under shrink wrap so rolling is the only practical method. Anyone sealed it without particles with success?

 

 

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Any paint will, to a degree fiil the molded nonskid, so you really do need to add some particles. 

I have not been happy with adding particles to the paint and rolling.  The distribution of the grit is uneven.

I've had good luck sifting coarse griptex lavishly into wet Awlgrip, sweeping it off after it dries and covering with another PISS THIN coat of Awlgrip.

 

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Yes, that's what I was hoping to avoid. Normally you would add the griptex to the paint, put a ball bearing or large nut in the pot  and spray from a height shaking it to keep it mixed but I don't have that option plus I want to avoid all the masking involved with spraying. Im not ready to take the shrink wrap off yet. It just seems to me if I just did one thin coat it should not fill the texture much. Im really not changing color so it should cover without much paint.Probably I should do an experiment on one of the deck hatches. I really don't need it any grippier, just seal in the oxidation. Obviously a deep scrub first with dawn and a stiff brush and plenty of water to get rid of all the loose powdery stuff and contaminents then seal it. Yep, I think I just talked myself into an experiment.

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1 hour ago, Diamond Jim said:

Any paint will, to a degree fiil the molded nonskid, so you really do need to add some particles. 

I have not been happy with adding particles to the paint and rolling.  The distribution of the grit is uneven.

I've had good luck sifting coarse griptex lavishly into wet Awlgrip, sweeping it off after it dries and covering with another PISS THIN coat of Awlgrip.

 

This is generally the right way to do it.  Take a coffee can, punch holes in it, attach it to a broom handle, and fill it with beads.  Then shake until there is a thorough coat.  Vaccuum up into a clean shop vac afterwards to reclaim the beads.  Those buggers are pricy.

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Plain 2 part paint will be slippery as hell. We had really agressive textured gelcoat on last boat. A single coat of 2 part on top of it and it was lethal with a light dew.

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32 minutes ago, Zonker said:

Plain 2 part paint will be slippery as hell. We had really agressive textured gelcoat on last boat. A single coat of 2 part on top of it and it was lethal with a light dew.

I've found adding a flattening agent helps, but then it makes the paint porous.  That allows dirt to get in, but it increases traction and reduces glare.

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Agreed. Never knew about it making it porous.

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13 hours ago, Zonker said:

Plain 2 part paint will be slippery as hell. We had really agressive textured gelcoat on last boat. A single coat of 2 part on top of it and it was lethal with a light dew.

Painted the deck and moulded non-skid areas of our last boat with Awlgrip Oyster White and it worked just fine, kept its non-skid properties, so I suppose it depends on how thick the coating is (we did 2 coats, sprayed) and/or the mould patterns (ours was ~3mm flattened diamonds).

It was the first area to show degradation - some bare spots began showing up after about 8 years, the smooth areas of the cabintop were still good after 10 years (boat has a full cover). Maybe wasn't prepped as well (can't sand in the moulding)?

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Fleetwood, that's encouraging to hear. I did a test today on the anchor well hatch rolling on quantum 99 as thin as I could, i'll see how it feels tomorrow. All moulded non skid is shiny gelcoat when its new and probably grips better as it ages  If ruins the non skid properties I will use awlcraft with broadcast griptex.  

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On 7/2/2018 at 6:01 AM, chuso007 said:

This is better than Kiwigrip. http://www.coltechmarine.com/gripelast/

More flexible, chemically resistant and way cheaper.

Why is it superior?  Just curious as it seems like it's new and relatively unproven.

Available in the US?

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On 7/3/2018 at 4:15 PM, DrewR said:

Why is it superior?  Just curious as it seems like it's new and relatively unproven.

Available in the US?

To be honest, I have no idea if it's available there... I find it better because it won't chip when you drop something hard and heavy on it, it's more durable (or so they say) and it's applied pretty much the same way.

Plus it's cheaper, which for a dinghy it may not matter much, but for larger areas it does.

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