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monsters inc

Splicing a split tailed mainsheet

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I would be interested in splicing a split mainsheet , but have not had much luck finding information on how to make the splice. There is one YouTube video,( from Rooster Sailing ) that talks about a twin core rope to accomplish the two tails. Anyone tried this before with a single core? The splice with the double core gets tapered to run through the last block on the boom. Not sure how common the dual core line is , but suspect it is harder to find than regular single cored double braid. I may end up trying a spliced eye and two shackles for simplicity. The boat is an 18 foot sport boat , so loads on the sheet won't be anywhere near breaking strength . Any advice is appreciated, cheers.

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4 hours ago, Diamond Jim said:

Eye splice

Cut

 

That, or think of the splice as an eye splice just with a wicked big eye. Pull the core out of the cover, bury the other core...

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Strip, taper make a big'ol eye splice  and then cut the eye splice ion the middle. That will result in the two "legs" of the bridle.

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On 7/2/2018 at 11:03 AM, monsters inc said:

I would be interested in splicing a split mainsheet , but have not had much luck finding information on how to make the splice. There is one YouTube video,( from Rooster Sailing ) that talks about a twin core rope to accomplish the two tails. Anyone tried this before with a single core? The splice with the double core gets tapered to run through the last block on the boom. Not sure how common the dual core line is , but suspect it is harder to find than regular single cored double braid. I may end up trying a spliced eye and two shackles for simplicity. The boat is an 18 foot sport boat , so loads on the sheet won't be anywhere near breaking strength . Any advice is appreciated, cheers.

You want an endless mainsheet?
I've done this with the Yale PHD Racer 8mm and it worked out great four out endless mainsheet.. I should have tapered it a bit more as there is a bit of bulk at the cleats but under load it works great.

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I hope I can explain this correctly... What I do is pull the core out the end of the sheet, take the line you'll be using as legs by the middle and run it inside the core for some length, pull the loop out at some point and run the whole mainsheet through that loop. Pull it it tight, run the cover again to the end and stitch whip it.

This has worked for me on dinghies, it's easy and clean.

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interesting topic, but there are few things more difficult than understanding a splice with words and no pictures! I´ll try strings theory, seems easier

pictures are a lot of work, though

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Depends on the load.  Most catamarans use a split tail for the traveller termination - core as one leg, and cover as the other leg.

Take a dyneema core double braid and pull the core out through the cover a couple of inches above the length of the split.  Then pass the cover through the core, and the cover through the cover and whip that point.  now you have a brummel splice, split tail.

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What I did with my 18ft TY is to take the end of the 8mm mainsheet and tie it to a circular s/s ring.  Then I took two 5mm spectra lines and tied them to the ring, the other ends went to a block on the windward and leeward sides (they were adjustable to a cleat).

Clearly the ring won't go through the block but by adjusting the spectra it didn't have to.  This achieves the objective of pulling the main using the leverage from the windward side.

This allowed me to change from 4:1 blocks to 2:1 which provided a much faster adjustment.  You need to have a good vang though (mine was a 32:1 cascade).

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I dove into the project a few nights ago. I wanted 48" legs on the bridal, so made an 96" around ,eye. Followed the YouTube videos on eye splicing measured , marked, tapered etc. It all went pretty easily , until I was bringing the core back into the cover at the point where it meets itself inside the cover . At that point , the fid got stuck. 2 lessons came out of that. Use as small a fid as possible and the fid had a hook on the end to hold the core. The hook came through the tape that I eased to smooth out the bottom  of the fid/core and then snagged the outer braid.managed to crochet the outer braid out of the way, but it was time consuming. In the end the rest of the splice was okay after getting the ends adjusted and bring the cover down over them . I sewed and whipped the fork, and up the splice where the cover was buried, for insurance. Thanks for all the info. I will be leaving the legs adjustable as noted in several comments above. Cheers

image.jpeg

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On 7/6/2018 at 6:40 AM, monsters inc said:

I dove into the project a few nights ago. I wanted 48" legs on the bridal, so made an 96" around ,eye. Followed the YouTube videos on eye splicing measured , marked, tapered etc. It all went pretty easily , until I was bringing the core back into the cover at the point where it meets itself inside the cover . At that point , the fid got stuck. 2 lessons came out of that. Use as small a fid as possible and the fid had a hook on the end to hold the core. The hook came through the tape that I eased to smooth out the bottom  of the fid/core and then snagged the outer braid.managed to crochet the outer braid out of the way, but it was time consuming. In the end the rest of the splice was okay after getting the ends adjusted and bring the cover down over them . I sewed and whipped the fork, and up the splice where the cover was buried, for insurance. Thanks for all the info. I will be leaving the legs adjustable as noted in several comments above. Cheers

image.jpeg

I need to see this in use. I've never seen this configuration and cannot imagine how it works.

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This is what I am trying to build. Without a backstay, and with a gnav. It was lifted from the viper640 class rules. The adjustable legs allow some latitude for wind strength, however , I haven't put in the boat yet.  What type of cleats ? Cam cleat is only rated to 300 lbs., any suggestions?

image.png

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On 7/6/2018 at 9:40 AM, monsters inc said:

I dove into the project a few nights ago. I wanted 48" legs on the bridal, so made an 96" around ,eye. Followed the YouTube videos on eye splicing measured , marked, tapered etc. It all went pretty easily , until I was bringing the core back into the cover at the point where it meets itself inside the cover . At that point , the fid got stuck. 2 lessons came out of that. Use as small a fid as possible and the fid had a hook on the end to hold the core. The hook came through the tape that I eased to smooth out the bottom  of the fid/core and then snagged the outer braid.managed to crochet the outer braid out of the way, but it was time consuming. In the end the rest of the splice was okay after getting the ends adjusted and bring the cover down over them . I sewed and whipped the fork, and up the splice where the cover was buried, for insurance. Thanks for all the info. I will be leaving the legs adjustable as noted in several comments above. Cheers

image.jpeg

I agree that's the most creative way to do it.  I would add that you should make sure the splice is Brummel locked as well.

 keep in mind, an eye splice is designed to take equal load on each leg going into the splice.  you're application will most often load the leg's unevenly depending on the tack and how much of the bridal you release.  So your splice is really only as strong as the whipping/stitching you added at the end.  (if you didn't do a brummel splice.)

  Cool floor btw...

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