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TufLuff Foil Screw Fail

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Two segments of my jib furler foil separated (Harken). The foil is an aluminum extrusion with plastic couplers that have small custom screw holes tapped into them to prevent the foil from separating. The screws keep falling out - even with Red Locktite.

Is there a better way to do this?

 

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it may be that the threads in the aluminum connector have worn and won't grip the screw threads any more. You may be able to take it apart and add a helicoil to the connector.  Is this a single connector or multiple ones? 

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I wouldn't expect a screw to hold in plastic very long in that application, would you? I also don't know if Loctite would work with plastic. 

I'd surprised if the screws are custom, how old is the furler?

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The furler is about 5 years old - and I think that ctut is right - not plastic, aluminum connectors. The threads are not stripped, but clearly the red Locktite isn't getting the job done. I'm mulling on setting them with 5200 and letting my rigger worry about getting them out again some time in the future.

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Have you talked to Harken?

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Loctite primer helps, but not if the screws are stripped.

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If it's an ESP furler it may be easier just to replace the connector. Would have to disassemble the furler a bit for that.

if it's an MKIV and the foils are pulling apart it sounds like the furler wasn't assembled with 5200.

not sure how the helicopter tape would hold up with the swivel.

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If the unit was new five years ago it is either a Mark IV furler or ESP. The Mark IV uses 5200 to retain the connectors and fasteners. The ESP uses blue loctite. A photo would tell the collective which model it is. 

If it is a Mark IV then someone used the wrong stuff to assemble it.

If it is an ESP then my first question is did the assembler make sure to THOROUGHLY clean both parts with acetone before assembly? "Standard" loctite used will not kick with the presense of any lubricant or grease. 243-blue and 263-red, instead of 242 or 262, are "okay" with contaminates but are not what you usually find on the shelf. Using red on the ESP would be no problem and, probably, preferred if you know how to use a torch with care taking it apart for service later. Loctite also requires the absence of air to kick so I am surprised that they use it on the ESP. The tolerances on the Mark IV were loose enough to go 5200 so they somehow made the cheaper version better? (What say you Harken peeps? I know you are watching.)

Chris asked the next logical question. Those threads are tiny, fine pitched and into anodized aluminum instead of hardcoat so an aggressive rigger could strip it no problem. (done it)

So, yeah, find out what model. Check that it was assembled with the right stuff. Check and see if the connector is stripped. Once you have that info in hand call Harken as someone earlier suggested. They are pretty great and will REALLY love the call if you have all the info ahead of time.

 

Wow, really geeked out on that one.

Thanks.

Mark

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