Dwight Schute

Gunwale damage on high performance dinghy

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Unfortunately on Wednesday we were involved in a collision which resulted on a crack between the deck and hull of the boat. Boat is currently on the road so won't be able to be repaired until the beginning of September. However one event still need to be completed before a complete professional fix. The boat is currently upside down on the trailer so water is free to saturate the damage but the sun can also dry it out. I will see the boat a few days before the event so I'm wondering how to best fix it so we can complete the regatta and get home with minimizing any further damage. Currently I am looking at 2 options but would love suggestions. 1: Grind away the chipped gelcoat and some glass. Fill the crack with thickened epoxy and clamp. 2: Tape it up well and let it dry out during the dry nights. I am a little weary about #1 because it will make it harder for the pros to do their work it they choose to salvage the edge of the deck. I am worried about water getting inside and adding extra weight and down the road possible causing soft-spots. If it would help i could get a friend to tape over the damaged area while the boat is out of my reach. Any advice is much appreciated. Pictures below.

 

 

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36 minutes ago, Brokefromsailing said:

Unfortunately on Wednesday we were involved in a collision which resulted on a crack between the deck and hull of the boat. Boat is currently on the road so won't be able to be repaired until the beginning of September. However one event still need to be completed before a complete professional fix. The boat is currently upside down on the trailer so water is free to saturate the damage but the sun can also dry it out. I will see the boat a few days before the event so I'm wondering how to best fix it so we can complete the regatta and get home with minimizing any further damage. Currently I am looking at 2 options but would love suggestions. 1: Grind away the chipped gelcoat and some glass. Fill the crack with thickened epoxy and clamp. 2: Tape it up well and let it dry out during the dry nights. I am a little weary about #1 because it will make it harder for the pros to do their work it they choose to salvage the edge of the deck. I am worried about water getting inside and adding extra weight and down the road possible causing soft-spots. If it would help i could get a friend to tape over the damaged area while the boat is out of my reach. Any advice is much appreciated. Pictures below.

 

 

unnamed.thumb.jpg.3373ea1db38ab29ef8be05b70545fae8.jpgunnamed-3.thumb.jpg.77bc4386079e033f9cb7634e7d8f320d.jpg

 

 

 

Since you are having it fixed later - don't make it harder - drill holes and through-bolt with some ss screws/nuts to keep it together until it gets fixed.  If you are worried about water - tape it over with some gorilla tape

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8 minutes ago, Christian said:

Since you are having it fixed later - don't make it harder - drill holes and through-bolt with some ss screws/nuts to keep it together until it gets fixed.  If you are worried about water - tape it over with some gorilla tape

Thanks for the reply, if I were to do something like this I could temporarily water-proof it with some 3M 4200 which wouldn't be too much of a struggle to pick out in a few weeks time. 

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Pry the crack open as wide as you can.  Shoot it full of Six10.  clamp it, scrape the excess while wet and let it kick.  Looks to me like the rest of the deck repairs can be handled from the outside with a grinder, if there's any areas it's fully cracked through to the joint, they'll hit it when they get there with the grinder, if they cut a chunk out, well the rest is properly bonded still and so the work is minimized. DON'T fill it with 4200.  Hate when people do that.  Faster to grind out a bit of resin and at least it doesn't fuck with the rest of the repair, sealant is always a pain. 

 

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16 hours ago, jgbrown said:

Pry the crack open as wide as you can.  Shoot it full of Six10.  clamp it, scrape the excess while wet and let it kick.  Looks to me like the rest of the deck repairs can be handled from the outside with a grinder, if there's any areas it's fully cracked through to the joint, they'll hit it when they get there with the grinder, if they cut a chunk out, well the rest is properly bonded still and so the work is minimized. DON'T fill it with 4200.  Hate when people do that.  Faster to grind out a bit of resin and at least it doesn't fuck with the rest of the repair, sealant is always a pain. 

 

Yep. 

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Plus 2 to that.

I'd get your friend to put clear tape over it when nice and dry, that way you aren't trying to dry the damaged area before injecting resin.

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Yeah, I am with the 'fix the crack now' crew , even while 'on the road' just need a few things:  epoxy, thickener if you want ... and some clamps.

On the gel-coated areas maybe lay-in /patch some epoxy just  below the gelcoat surface so the fiberglass  doesn't absorb much water. . Be sure to leave space for gel coat later. 

 

Then worry about the cosmetics this winter. Looks like a bit of Gel Coat. ..  and paint to match.

 

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similar damage on the front of my kids opti. Filled it with 5200 thinking id never have t deal with it again but it is peeling out. The tough part is opening the gap big enough to prep and get enough adhesive or epoxy in there.

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The thing is- the split-apart bits are nearly together already.  I think we are saying.... Don't squirt a polyurethane glue like 4200 material in there unless it is not ever repairable. Properly.  Several long screws will hold all the parts well together, then tape it and don't worry.  Later these screws will pull the dried parts together nicely-- using epoxy with some filler,  and you will then have a proper, excellent structurally tight repair (Permanent).   (Probably stronger than the starboard side, too!)

 

 

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why not find a fibreglass repairer close to where the boat is and getting them to epoxy it back together, it's a pretty straightforward and quick repair to bond the deck back on and then do the cosmetic stuff whenever

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On 8/19/2018 at 10:52 PM, jgbrown said:

Pry the crack open as wide as you can.  Shoot it full of Six10.  clamp it, scrape the excess while wet and let it kick.  Looks to me like the rest of the deck repairs can be handled from the outside with a grinder, if there's any areas it's fully cracked through to the joint, they'll hit it when they get there with the grinder, if they cut a chunk out, well the rest is properly bonded still and so the work is minimized. DON'T fill it with 4200.  Hate when people do that.  Faster to grind out a bit of resin and at least it doesn't fuck with the rest of the repair, sealant is always a pain. 

 

+1

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