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norcold refrigerator

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i've got a de/ev 0061, 7.0 cubic foot ac/dc refrigerator onboard, and have recently experienced it clicking on and off.  it seems to click on and i can hear the unit running for about 3-5 seconds, then it clicks back off. it does this about 3-5 times and then remains off. has anyone had this experience or know of a fix? the norcold folks sent me to the local tech guy and they mentioned that it may just need to be 100% replaced. any thoughts would be appreciated.

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7 minutes ago, full circle said:

i've got a de/ev 0061, 7.0 cubic foot ac/dc refrigerator onboard, and have recently experienced it clicking on and off.  it seems to click on and i can hear the unit running for about 3-5 seconds, then it clicks back off. it does this about 3-5 times and then remains off. has anyone had this experience or know of a fix? the norcold folks sent me to the local tech guy and they mentioned that it may just need to be 100% replaced. any thoughts would be appreciated.

I had one of those couple years back, same issue. Same result, remove and replace.

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1 minute ago, Raz'r said:

I had one of those couple years back, same issue. Same result, remove and replace.

oh great....

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10 minutes ago, full circle said:

oh great....

sorry for the news. The only good news is I was able to do it myself. Was a simple pull out and replace.  Boat was a 1999, and the refrigerator model has not changed. At all.

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6 minutes ago, Raz'r said:

sorry for the news. The only good news is I was able to do it myself. Was a simple pull out and replace.  Boat was a 1999, and the refrigerator model has not changed. At all.

true. i can see that being good news. now i just need to prepare to come up with the money to replace it.

wasn't sure if there was a thermometer or wire board that could be replaced.

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9 minutes ago, full circle said:

true. i can see that being good news. now i just need to prepare to come up with the money to replace it.

wasn't sure if there was a thermometer or wire board that could be replaced.

Yeah, same....

its some sort of sealed system.

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2 minutes ago, Raz'r said:

Yeah, same....

its some sort of sealed system.

thank you for your input. if the tech cannot help when they come to see it, i wont feel overly bad about having to replace it.

seriously, thank you.

 

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5 hours ago, Raz'r said:

its some sort of sealed system.

Of this I know nothing. So, just FWIW, the last drawing in the parts list makes it look like it's based on a Danfoss compressor. If you squint it looks like the high and low pressure side have Schrader valves. https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/PL_DE_DCEV0061_624380_20180530.pdf

So you kinda sorta ought to be able to do the usual trouble shooting. My WAG from the symptoms would be some kind of blockage is causing a compressor fault. For sure that or something else. Good luck.

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Test the module. Look it up...Danfoss module test.

connect a 12vdc led across the SMALL "+" (not the main "+" power input) and "D". 

the flashes on it will tell the story

Most issues related to these are:

The fan is overloading the module, I think the cut out is .7amps. The easy fix and very cheap.

Lo-volt cut out is 10.4 on 12vdc and 23.4 on 24vdc.

Bad or resistive wire.

Faulty t-stat  (easy to jumper and test).

The fact that it cycles off and on points to an electrical /control issue, rather than a leak or low refrigerant issue, as it would just keep running until it hit the compressor's thermal overload point.

Hope it helps.

 

 

 

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Up until it started malfunctioning did it work well for you? I ended up replacing my dual voltage nevercold with a frigoboat system and never looked back.

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sorry for not responding. i have been gone. anyways, i shut the unit off for two days, did some follow up calls to norcold, and they asked me to try turning it back on but only using dc.

they also recommended a few other things but...i turned it on using dc power only, and it started up and ran just fine. after thirty minutes of proper running and cooling, i switched over to ac and the unit has been working like a dream from that time on. there is some discussion that the unit was trying to decide which power source to use. i'm sure it will be something i will need to watch, but currently all is well. 

 

i did talk to people with some of your input, so thank you to you all. if the status changes i will let you know, but for now, all is well.

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As with most boat related refrigerator issues, it is a "balance" issue. Log on to your bank and you will likely find that one of your accounts finally has a "high balance" issue. Remove the excess balance and your sparkling new refrigeration unit will run fine.

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well...here we go again. unit seems to work fine for about ten minutes when I first turn it on using ac or dc power. but then, it begins to shut off for about 2-3 seconds, then turn on for 2-3 seconds, then off and on until I finally turn the unit off for good. the light remains on the front of the unit, it is the motor/cooling unit that is shutting off and turning on. i'm reaching out to others who may not have seen this thread for ideas, before I call someone to come see it and/or prepare to replace it. any help would be appreciative.

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2 hours ago, full circle said:

unit seems to work fine for about ten minutes when I first turn it on using ac or dc power. but then, it begins to shut off for about 2-3 seconds, then turn on for 2-3 seconds, then off and on until I finally turn the unit off for good.

That'd be typical if there was an obstruction in the system. The compressor faults with over-pressure on the high side, shuts down, waits retries. Rinse, repeat.  If you put gauges on the thing you can see the pressure. Just looking at it you might notice the compressor periodically bumps but otherwise doesn't run while the cooling fan runs continuously. It will draw just enough current for the fan. So if you're tracking that (say a clamp meter) that's a clue, too. If your controller has the LED trouble light it'll flash a generic error code. I believe they don't install them by default because they shoot out a lot of false errors.

I suspect the default cure is a new capillary and drier. Those are usually brazed. Maybe a bit beyond the average home gamer. In theory solder should be strong enough and easier for the DIYer. The flux might be problematic. I dunno.  

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4 minutes ago, weightless said:

That'd be typical if there was an obstruction in the system. The compressor faults with over-pressure on the high side, shuts down, waits retries. Rinse, repeat.  If you put gauges on the thing you can see the pressure. Just looking at it you might notice the compressor periodically bumps but otherwise doesn't run while the cooling fan runs continuously. It will draw just enough current for the fan. So if you're tracking that (say a clamp meter) that's a clue, too. If your controller has the LED trouble light it'll flash a generic error code. I believe they don't install them by default because they shoot out a lot of false errors.

I suspect the default cure is a new capillary and drier. Those are usually brazed. Maybe a bit beyond the average home gamer. In theory solder should be strong enough and easier for the DIYer. The flux might be problematic. I dunno.  

 

 

thank you. i will look into this.

 

 

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Do not open the system to the atmosphere, no matter what anyone tells you, in fact, if you do not understand the refrigeration cycle, do not hook gauges to it either. I assume you read my post above, #9, and have checked all of these things first? Is the compressor hot? How is it cooled, air, water, or a keel cooler? All are options, when you start it up, can you hear the refrigerant moving in the plate?

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Ok, not a norcold, but an engine driven refrigeration system. 

Mid 90s system. Boats been sitting for years so system seems empty. Standard system, everything you’d expect. I’ve found all the pieces. Including the sight glass, the danfoss connection right before the expansion chamber, (which had the high pressure access valve) - all of it EXCEPT the low pressure access. Is it even possible there isn’t a low pressure access port?

ive traced the low back to the engine except where it goes behind the box and where it’s under the engine. They wouldn’t put it there, would they?

how did they fill this damn thing?

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Please accept sarcasm where it belongs - here. Of course it is behind, under the engine and also between the keel bolts and the lead. Probably insulated from vibration with a good amount of 3M 5200. It was originally filled at the factory with unicorn farts.

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16 minutes ago, Caca Cabeza said:

Please accept sarcasm where it belongs - here. Of course it is behind, under the engine and also between the keel bolts and the lead. Probably insulated from vibration with a good amount of 3M 5200. It was originally filled at the factory with unicorn farts.

Those fuckers....

but seriously, it has to have one, right?

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12 hours ago, Raz'r said:

Ok, not a norcold, but an engine driven refrigeration system. 

Mid 90s system. Boats been sitting for years so system seems empty. Standard system, everything you’d expect. I’ve found all the pieces. Including the sight glass, the danfoss connection right before the expansion chamber, (which had the high pressure access valve) - all of it EXCEPT the low pressure access. Is it even possible there isn’t a low pressure access port?

ive traced the low back to the engine except where it goes behind the box and where it’s under the engine. They wouldn’t put it there, would they?

how did they fill this damn thing?

The compressor will have an access port on it if its a generic Sanden 505, some of the later ones came without fittings on the compressor itself, but they had them on the flex line fittings. If its a Seafrost system (the compressor may be blue), look for the rectangle black epoxy case which has the TXV in it, usually close to the box it is cooling, it should also have an access fitting, though it may be an automotive style, and not a 1/4" Male flare. The expansion chamber is actually the receiver, it has the sight glass on the top of it. it has a 1/4"male flare fitting.

If it is empty, then the liquid line filter drier will need to be replaced/added and the system checked for leaks with dry nitrogen and evacuated for at least 8 hours.

 

DO NOT ADD AUTOMOTIVE SEALER /REFRIGERANT TO A MARINE REFER SYSTEM. PAG OIL WILL KILL IT .

Take pics and ill see what I can do.

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On ‎9‎/‎4‎/‎2018 at 2:16 PM, Raz'r said:

I had one of those couple years back, same issue. Same result, remove and replace.

Wanting to put a retrofit reefer in the ice box of my boat. Would you recommend the Norcold?

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