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alifish

JBoat Chain Plate core replacement

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So I've approached my balsa core replacement on a J/29 from the top side, leaving the inner skin intact (god only knows what J/Boats was thinking when they built balsa cored decks and didn't ever do any thing that isolates the core from thru deck holes)!  Recently was at an industry show and spoke with one of the Grudgeon family (can't remember his first name) about filling holes from attached deck hardware with West epoxy with silica (which is what their manual still says). His recommendation was to use 610 because it wouldn't be as stiff and prone to cracking out when I re-drilled my deck hardware, thought well he's obviously more in touch with their products than I am.  Think their manual was written prior to 610?

So I've cleaned out an area out to dry wood that surrounds my thru deck holes for chain plates, would the collective brain trust here suggest just placing the new core in and go back and take out the core in the area/holes the chain plates will go through about 1/4" out, wrap the chain plates with release (Maybe just leave them there w/o release) and put 610 back into the holes to fill the area between the surrounding core and the chain plates? Because the chain plates are gonna move around slightly as the mast flexes around, they are held in place by the bulkhead under the deck as we all know so the deck doesn't really do a whole bunch other than keep the water out with some sealant!

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Replace the core, leaving the 1/4" space for the epoxy "pad" to surround the chain plate. Do NOT epoxy them in place - wrap them with packing tape - the clear stuff - or otherwise ensure they will release.

When everything is cured, pull the chains and put a bevel around the opening - like countersinking a bolt hole - that will provide a better grip and seal for the chain caulking.

Also, ensure the slot for the chains is not too tight - it needs to hold a reasonable amount of sealant to permit the flexing you mention.

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So I'm going to do the core over the entire area, go back and drill out the hole for the plates, take it out a bit, put the plates back in with a wrap around them, then fill it all back up with 610, after it fixes up take the plates out, remove the wrap and add sealant!

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When you reinstall the chain played DO NOT DRILL HOLES AND PUT SCREWS IN THOSE SLOTTED CAPS!!!!

Ehen you put the 5200 sealant around the chain plates squish the slotted caps in place. 

If caulk does not squeeze out all around the caps and squirt up through the screw holes, add more caulk and try again 

Scrape off the extra with  a putty knife and rinse away the rest with rubbing alcohol on as many paper towels as it takes. DO NOT OVER SOLVE AND UNDERCUT 

when the  caps work loose in a few years, that will remind you to reseal every fitting in the boat. And you won’t have rot from those idiot screws 

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13 hours ago, Gouvernail said:

When you reinstall the chain played DO NOT DRILL HOLES AND PUT SCREWS IN THOSE SLOTTED CAPS!!!!

Ehen you put the 5200 sealant around the chain plates squish the slotted caps in place. 

If caulk does not squeeze out all around the caps and squirt up through the screw holes, add more caulk and try again 

Scrape off the extra with  a putty knife and rinse away the rest with rubbing alcohol on as many paper towels as it takes. DO NOT OVER SOLVE AND UNDERCUT 

when the  caps work loose in a few years, that will remind you to reseal every fitting in the boat. And you won’t have rot from those idiot screws 

Second this, except I would use 4000UV rather than 5200.  More paste, less runny, more UV resistance too.

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