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TQA

Is it OK to use my anchor windlass to lift my dinghy like this?

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I have had recent shoulder problems and I want to avoid lifting my 250 - 300 lb dinghy and OB by hand. 

I have a rear arch fitted with 2 x 2 pulley block and tackles. So by my calculation the pull required is about 75 lbs. If I join the 2 pulley lines together I can then take a single line forward above my bimini to a pulley on the mast then down to the anchor windlass, a Lofrans Tigres, which I would use to lift the dink. 

Can anyone see any problems with this.
 

dinghy dangle idea.jpg

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Only problem is stopping the lift at the right time to avoid bending the arch. Windlasses have a tendency to spool down under low load.

Also you need a lower lead into the capstain to avoid overrides.

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If your body is turning to shit like all of us maybe time to power convert some of those winches in the cockpit, then you have something more manageable.

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Even if you don't power convert them, running the purchase system to the manual winches in the cockpit will make it trivial to haul the thing up with some easy cranking. Simplest to rig but fussiest would be to forget the join and run each block and tackle to its corresponding winch on each side. You'll have tons of mechanical advantage but you'll have to move back and forth a bit as you pull it up. If you want to join them as shown, just run the joined line forward to a turning block on the deck and then back to whichever side winch you prefer. 

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1 hour ago, jack_sparrow said:

If your body is turning to shit like all of us maybe time to power convert some of those winches in the cockpit, then you have something more manageable.

I can manage the sailing bit OK but my physio wants me to stop pulling the dink up.  I have thought about electric winches but for now the disruption required to fit them would be considerable as would the cost. The quote was 14000 US for a pair of Lewmar 50s. 

I might prefer a pair of 4 speed manual winches anyway. I often have inexperienced crew and power genoa winches scare me. 

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11 minutes ago, IStream said:

Even if you don't power convert them, running the purchase system to the manual winches in the cockpit will make it trivial to haul the thing up with some easy cranking. Simplest to rig but fussiest would be to forget the join and run each block and tackle to its corresponding winch on each side. You'll have tons of mechanical advantage but you'll have to move back and forth a bit as you pull it up. If you want to join them as shown, just run the joined line forward to a turning block on the deck and then back to whichever side winch you prefer. 

I was using the genoa winches but am getting a recurrence of my rotator cuff problem which went away as soon as I stopped to it.

So definitely going power for the daily grind to lift the dink. Just got to work out how. 

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You don't need to electrify your genoa winches, just a small halyard winch (e.g. Lewmar 30) will do the job. I did the conversion on mine for about $1000 in parts (Seattle prices). Double that if you have someone else to do it for you. Lewmar regularly runs two-for-one sales on their electric winches as well. 

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43 minutes ago, TQA said:

I have thought about electric winches but for now the disruption required to fit them would be considerable as would the cost. The quote was 14000 US for a pair of Lewmar 50s. 

I might prefer a pair of 4 speed manual winches anyway. I often have inexperienced crew and power genoa winches scare me. 

Kits available even from third party providers for old ocean pre 90's Lewmars take the $ sting out. Simply turn the power off and use in manual mode if inexperience OB a concern, handle in disengages the drive. NB. Something you don't see enough if is a isolation switch in the cockpit in case operating relay sticks...imagine body going into top mast sheeve.

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Good point. I didn't mount my thermal breakers in the cockpit but they're right inside the companionway. I also decided not to use the stock Lewmar contactor, which appears to be rated for about 70A and used a 200A Gigavac unit instead. You can buy cheaper contactors but the GVs are bulletproof.

http://www.gigavac.com/sites/default/files/catalog/spec_sheet/gv220.pdf

I see that Gigavac was just acquired by Sensata, which is probably a good thing. Gigavac has great designs but seems to have had some operational difficulties (poor stock keeping, an online store implementation from the mid-1990's, etc.).

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As the slight risk of blasphemy...  For $50-$100  you can buy a very capable 12V, compact winch.  I have been using a $50 masterlock version to yard around tree parts in my back woods for years now.  I haven't tried, but suspect it could be marinized with little effort.   It does get used hard and put away wet and really doesn't look the worse for it. The switch assembly is for sure the weak link but I haven't had any issues.  The galvy cable could easily be replaced with synthetic.  The motor is probably identical to the marine versions for 2000% more and is weathersealed just fine as it is. 

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Actually, I'd recommend this:

Not that I sell them in Spain or anything...:rolleyes:

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Maybe get a lighter dinghy? Walker Bay makes a superlight a@270 cm (ca 9’) at around 70lb. Get a 2-stroke to push it. It’s working for me and especially my wife who can muscle the thing around by herself. 

Another option is a Takacat Lite. Had a 1st gen version and liked it very much. Wish I could have got another but circumstances didn’t work

Or add purchase?

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I used my anchor windlass to lift me to the masthead all the time. Weighed more than your dinghy and that was a 1:1 purchase... but it would trip the breaker if the motor wasn't running because it was a long vertical lift.

Should be no sweat with your windlass using a purchase and much shorter lift.

Or get the Milwaulkee right angle drill.

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Not changing size and type of dink. I often anchor well away from the madding crowd like to go shopping snorkeling at speed. NB It is REALLY difficult to get back into a Walker Bay from the water.

Using a Winchrite might make sense 700 $ though

A small truck winch with a remote might work. 70 $ Possibly not reliable but I could buy 2 and a big can of WD 40.

OK I will go ahead with the Experiment when I get down to Dominica. 

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19 hours ago, chuso007 said:

Actually, I'd recommend this:

Not that I sell them in Spain or anything...:rolleyes:

Pretty exy in Oz but I like the idea, just move it from winch to winch.  About 4K AU$

Cheers,

Jim B)

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I thought it was expensive too, but then realized that when you're getting older and you can no longer hoist your mainsail easily, it's either selling the boat, getting crew or buying a real electric winch, which is maybe 3x more expensive. 

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And why is it 8x better thsn an 18' cordless drill that you can buy for about $400 US!? 

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The Milwaukee, which we use is excellent value for $400 ish US, it will power a winch, not that heavy, can be used as a dill if needed, mix bottom paint or a bucket of slushy drinks. Best value going.

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Just had a look at the Milwaukee, it is available in Oz, at Total Tools, Taren Point for AU$367 skin only.  I was concerned that these gizmos were an "impact" type drill but they are a right angled drill.  Charging on board cruising would need an inverter which should have specs checked to ensure the charger would accept the inverter's output?

Somebody on here would know that.  This is starting to sound practical given getting one of these.

image.png.ec50f15651fa6c332d12001b0328a4e8.png

More checking to be done...

Cheers,

Jim ;)

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11 hours ago, TQA said:

Not changing size and type of dink. I often anchor well away from the madding crowd like to go shopping snorkeling at speed. NB It is REALLY difficult to get back into a Walker Bay from the water.

I do the same, and I would like to differ. Wife is the avid snorkeler, nearing 60, and arthritic and gets into the WB without particular difficulty.

—wait: are you thinking I’m referring to the WB plastic hard dink? This is their RIB

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The M18 FUEL™ HOLE HAWG® 1/2" Right Angle Drill Milwaukee drill looks like a possible but there are reviews that suggest it does not have huge amounts of torque failing to drive 3/4 drills through regular lumber. 

This one seems to have more grunt and a low gear MILWAUKEE 0721-20 M28 28-VOLT LITHIUM-ION 1/2-INCH CORDLESS RIGHT ANGLE DRILL/DRIVER KIT

Hmm could also use the batteries in a cordless grinder which I would like as an emergency tool. 

 

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6 hours ago, TQA said:

The M18 FUEL™ HOLE HAWG® 1/2" Right Angle Drill Milwaukee drill looks like a possible but there are reviews that suggest it does not have huge amounts of torque failing to drive 3/4 drills through regular lumber. 

This one seems to have more grunt and a low gear MILWAUKEE 0721-20 M28 28-VOLT LITHIUM-ION 1/2-INCH CORDLESS RIGHT ANGLE DRILL/DRIVER KIT

Hmm could also use the batteries in a cordless grinder which I would like as an emergency tool. 

 

One of our skippers is doing just that in his emergency tool kit for rig removal.

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7 hours ago, TQA said:

The M18 FUEL™ HOLE HAWG® 1/2" Right Angle Drill Milwaukee drill looks like a possible but there are reviews that suggest it does not have huge amounts of torque failing to drive 3/4 drills through regular lumber. 

This one seems to have more grunt and a low gear MILWAUKEE 0721-20 M28 28-VOLT LITHIUM-ION 1/2-INCH CORDLESS RIGHT ANGLE DRILL/DRIVER KIT

Hmm could also use the batteries in a cordless grinder which I would like as an emergency tool. 

 

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Drilling/Right-Angle-Drills/2709-20

 

Just get the right one for the job.  This one will drive a 6" bit.  Tops out at 950RPM in top gear vs 1200 but has a low gear(350).

M18 plus the 12V charger works great.  The grinders survive years of fiberglass work.  Not waterproof though.  Drown em in the bilge and they stop working, but no complaints at warranty time so...  If it was single purpose rigging cutting, grinder and a diamond and metal  cutting disk(not zip disk) would be ok but...

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Electrical-Termination/Electrical-Cutters/2777-21

uses a 9T hydraulic pump. Probably expensive though. 

The new M18 12AH batteries are massive. 

 

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On 10/19/2018 at 11:57 AM, Zonker said:

And why is it 8x better thsn an 18' cordless drill that you can buy for about $400 US!? 

Haven't even taken a look at it, have ya?

It's a lot more than a drill...

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Yes, it's a $2500 electric winch handle that connects to your smartphone. Or you could buy say 6 Milwaukee drills for the same money. Keep 2 (1 is a spare). Sell the other 4 to older cruisers as you travel at a small profit and treat yourself to a nice dinner out on the proceeds.

 

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