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11235

Thinking of adding a Code 0 to my J/112E

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Happy Spring everyone! Almost time for the boat (a J/112E named dopodomani) to get back in the water for her first full season, after a short first year in 2018 with a July delivery. The bit of sailing we did last year with our standard jib and main along with an A1.5 and an A2 spinnaker found the boat going pretty well in most conditions. One area she struggled was in close reaching in the very light stuff, or as we call it up in Massachusetts Bay, summer!

As such, I am considering adding a Code 0 to the inventory this year, which I think will be very helpful especially when cruising double-handed with the wife when the wind is down in the single digits. There are a bunch of code 0 threads in the archives about the sails, the bowsprit/bobstay configuration and such for the J/109/111/121, and the 112 should not be all that different. But my question to all that are using code zeros with their sprit boats is what is the state of the art? And what did you do that you had to go back and change??

For example:
- Do you extend the bowsprit all the way, or just partially?
- Do you use a bobstay? If so, how did you add it to the boat?
- Do you tack the code 0 to the end of the sprit, or have a soft collar around the middle of the sprit making it easier to “peel” to an asym?
- Are you using a cabled or cableless code 0?
- What are the preferred furlers?
- If close reaching in light breeze, how high can you point?
- If beam reaching, do you keep the jib out and trimmed as well?
- What blocks do you run the code 0 sheets through, the existing spinnaker blocks or dedicated blocks at a different position than the spin blocks?

And of course, if you’ve added a code 0 to the quiver, how has it performed, how often do you use it, and at what true/apparent wind speed/angles can it operate?

As you can see, I’m looking for a good data dump to help me to decide how to best add this to my J/112E. And as I said, I’ve gone through a lot of different posts both in the J/Boat Anarchy section and the Gear section (I do know how to do a search) as well as some other great websites like the Blur site, but I’m looking for the latest/greatest Spring 2019 setups that people may be using.

Thanks in advance!

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Hey Chris, doing the exact same, for the exact same reasons.

I'd like to see all the answers to your questions as well.

So far we went with a HARKEN REFLEX UNIT 2, Soft Tack, with 2:1 Downhaul. 

Ullman Sails is designing the sail.

We had the Bobstay added by International Marine while the boat was there for the bottom job last spring.

C3C9BD68-C40C-4EE3-BEF4-F02A02D62FD4.jpeg

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Tim,

Looking good with Elevation...and nice trim with that jib with the inhaulers!! 

I'm leaning towards going with the cableless code 0 from Doyle, makes the storage of the sail when not deployed a bit easier. Lots of different ways to go, I'll be interested to see what the latest/greatest setups people are using.

When do you splash? Almost got to 70 degrees in Boston today, it won't be long!!

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 You'll have to take my experiences and recommendations with a grain of salt because I don't know the typical conditions you see in your area or the type of sailing you do.  However, generally speaking I think you'd get more use out of an A3 if you don't already have one.  The code 0 is a great sail but it has a relatively narrow groove you can use it in.  I personally feel like a code 0 is one of the last sails that should be added once you have a full set of kites and headsails.  That's just me and our situation though.  You'll probably use the code 0 less than most of your other sails but when there's a use for it it's like no other sail and will win races for you.  Another option is getting a bigger headsail which will be much more versatile and useful instead of the code 0 but depending on your local PHRF rules your rating would likely change.  That rating hit is especially painful if you sail in conditions where typically you wouldn't use the genoa very often anyway.

With our Code 0 we've found it's difficult to hold it higher than about 65-70 TWA and even that high we often have to rig up a makeshift inhauler to hold it that high.  It seems to work best at angles of about 75-125 TWA with TWS of about 5-18.  It's a good sail for longer point to point races but not much utility for a windward leeward course.  A couple other drawbacks that come to mind: 
-To furl it up you have to go downwind to de-power the sail thus if you're carrying it on a higher angle you'll lose some ground in the process.  For example if you're carrying it at a twa of 80 you'll probably have to turn down to about twa 150-160 to get it to furl, (unless winds are light).
-I've been told you shouldn't be able to gybe or tack the code 0 without furling it but we've been able to do both in lighter winds with some help from the foredeck.  But definitely in winds above 10-ish you'll probably have to furl before gybing or tacking
 
You will definitely need a bobstay if you use it off the end of the sprit, it's very important to get the halyard tension really tight for the code 0 to work well.
 
I've had a ronstan furler on my last boat for the code 0 and my latest boat has it on a Karver furler.  The Karver works much better but is more expensive. The Ronstan worked fine too, just not quite as easy to use as the Karver. 
 
I just re-read your initial post and saw that one of your plans is to use the code 0 when DH cruising with your wife.  For that purpose it would be a great sail and you could probably use it in a broader range of conditions than I initially mentioned if you're not looking for optimal performance.  We've used ours a number of times for the same situation and it works well for casual DH cruising too.

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On 3/29/2019 at 5:38 PM, 11235 said:

 For example:
- Do you extend the bowsprit all the way, or just partially?
- Do you use a bobstay? If so, how did you add it to the boat?
- Do you tack the code 0 to the end of the sprit, or have a soft collar around the middle of the sprit making it easier to “peel” to an asym?
- Are you using a cabled or cableless code 0?
- What are the preferred furlers?
- If close reaching in light breeze, how high can you point?
- If beam reaching, do you keep the jib out and trimmed as well?
 - What blocks do you run the code 0 sheets through, the existing spinnaker blocks or dedicated blocks at a different position than the spin blocks?

 And of course, if you’ve added a code 0 to the quiver, how has it performed, how often do you use it, and at what true/apparent wind speed/angles can it operate?

 

In order:

Yes

Yes. Reinforce inside of bow knuckle, drill a hole through the stem and reinforce/waterproof it using a G10 tube. Splice the bobstay through that and use a lashing fitting to tension it at the end of the bowsprit.

End of the sprit

Cableless seems to be the rage right now so why not

Ubi Maior

Depends on the cut of the sail. Usually max 65TWA

Probably not

Spinnaker blocks with a tweaker at midships to close the leech

 

It's a crucial sail for modern boats with nonoverlapping headsails and high aspect rigs.

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Jackolantern, good stuff. Pretty much sums up the best practices I've seen on a bunch of other posts. Already using Ubi Maior for my jin furler, so that would be the natural fit here. And Pscho Tiller, yes, a smaller, flatter asym was another thought, but looking to run this in light breeze short handed, so the furling ease of the Code 0 seems like the way to go.

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