Jubblies

S2 9.1 reaching sails, PHRF Lake Erie & filling the inventory gaps

Recommended Posts

I am sitting here considering expanding our inventory next season for our S2 9.1. Our current inventory is in a state of flux. There's a blend of a few older sails and the rest are either new or still not at the replacement stage yet. The big three (main, 155%, jib, and runner) are all either still in good shape or brand new. So this season I want to work on filling the gaps in the inventory based on where we keep getting spanked for not keeping up with the Joneses when we do nearshore and around the islands courses.

The first area is our #2. This one is easy, just buy a new one.

The area I really need to think out is between about 60° - 100°. In most conditions up to about 12 knots, we can carry the AP runner up to about 100°, and in the softer breeze we can push that to about 90°. After this we are forced to go to our #1 and we consequently get killed by either fractional rig boats like the Abbott 33s that can sail much higher angles with a full kite, or the other boats in out fleet that have gone the route of adding either an A3 or a C0 to their arsenal.

Because I am already planning on buying a new #2 this winter, I can't go gangbusters on filling this gap. My thoughts are...
 

  1. Follow the pack and get an A3 we launch from the pole. My understanding of PHRF Lake Erie is that the rating is not adjusted as long as the mid girth is correct and the finished sail area is the same as a symmetrical kite would be.
     
  2. Take the rating hit on a Code 0 (If I am reading this correctly we would see 3 seconds a mile for this)

     
    Quote

    11.6.3. Code Zero (Code 0) Sails Code Zero are asymmetrical sails with a mid-girth of ≥ 55% and less than 75% of the foot length of the sail.
    11.6.3.1. The minimum penalty for a Code 0 sail will be 3 seconds per mile, adjusted for sail area as per the asymmetrical rules.

     

  3. Go the route of a Jib Top and Staysail combination.
     

I'm trending towards #3 for a couple of reasons. The biggest reason being versatility. The Job Top would give me a higher angle range than an A3 would, and if I need/want extra power the staysail would provide this and the added bonus of helm balance. Although I am not shy about spinnaker changes, my crew is still on a learning curve. I think that putting up an A3 and doing spinnaker peels is a whole new skill set, and I want to focus on developing other skill sets first with them. This leaves me with one BIG question though, and that is how deep can I go with this configuration? I can see easily how it helps at say about 50° to maybe 80°, but am I negating any advantage over an A3 at 90° to say 100°?

And talking heads go...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

#3 would be the last thing I would advocate.  Even old-timers are too young to remember when that combo was popular and even then, it has no place in light air and Lake Erie is not a heavy air venue.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cable less code 0. Hands down.  Surely PHRF LE is still up to the same old shenanigans and will find some way to smack you down for using present day technology. Better yet, get rated through DRYA or the Edgewater PHRF!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, airacer said:

Cable less code 0. Hands down.

Yea, I really like the idea of a Code 0, it fills the gap all the way through the range I want to fill. The challenge is the question of whether 3 seconds a mile for 3 or 4 races a year is worth it. This is of course assuming I'm not missing something in my interpretation of the rule, or if the sailmakers in the area already have a work around for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you would use an A3 or S3 a lot more then you would a code 0.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, LCC said:

I think you would use an A3 or S3 a lot more then you would a code 0.

S2 9.1 Skipper here.  I've never used a C0, but have raced many miles with reaching with the S3 up and the pole all the way forward.  Works well for us.  In light wind we can carry that to 60-70 degrees AWA.  When the wind builds and we start getting overpowered, we can change to a genoa with little or no loss of speed because weather helm goes down and we can straighten the rudder out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Jubblies said:

Yea, I really like the idea of a Code 0, it fills the gap all the way through the range I want to fill. The challenge is the question of whether 3 seconds a mile for 3 or 4 races a year is worth it. This is of course assuming I'm not missing something in my interpretation of the rule, or if the sailmakers in the area already have a work around for it.

Get 2 different certificates.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never understood the appeal of a Code 0 on an old school boat that is rated to carry 155% head sails. Especially a masthead. A code 0 does not give you that much more sail area. Code 0s are best on boats like a J/111.

I raced on a Peterson 43 that had a jib top and I can tell you it was a secret weapon. We would sheet it outboard and aft and it worked great. While we did have a spinnaker staysail which hoisted on the jib halyard and went to the masthead, we did not have a jib staysail that was designed to go with the jib top. I think that type of staysail hoists on the topping lift sheets to the #3 cars.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Having owned a 9.1, and given that you talking 3-4 races a year, I'd go with the jib top option, assuming you have a dual slotted headfoil 

You don't suffer a rating penalty the rest of the time (i.e. the other 20 or so times you race)

You will likely have more weather helm with a code sail than a jib top, and given the barn door of a rudder the 9.1 has, less weather helm means more speed

You can add a staysail later for light air/more sail area if needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now