Sign in to follow this  
trimmer

Dyneema Covered Line Splice

Recommended Posts

I am looking for some tips or tricks to splicing lines with a tightly woven 24-plait cover (ie Atlas Backstay 99/NER WR2).  Does anyone out there have any experience they are willing to share?   I've been trying to find some info online but haven't been able to find anything.  Thanks!

 

https://www.alpha-ropes.com/index.php?id=433&fam=32&subfam=99&cat=10&pid=495

 

https://www.neropes.com/products/grand-prix-racing/product/detail/wr2-ultra/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Patience. It’s been awhile since I spliced wr2. I remember that the core comes out easily enough. I think the eye itself I spliced with no cover and neatly tucked the cover through the throat, or had some other remarkably clever way dealing with cover. 

 

What kind of issue are you having?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes a little mc lube helps. it has helped me through some frustrating splices/burrows. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
52 minutes ago, mgs said:

Patience. It’s been awhile since I spliced wr2. I remember that the core comes out easily enough. I think the eye itself I spliced with no cover and neatly tucked the cover through the throat, or had some other remarkably clever way dealing with cover. 

 

What kind of issue are you having?

Haven't run into any issues yet as I haven't started the project, but from experience splicing other lines with a tight cover (typically extracting the core or burying the splice) I was wondering if anyone had any tricks or special tools they use to help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, trimmer said:

Haven't run into any issues yet as I haven't started the project, but from experience splicing other lines with a tight cover (typically extracting the core or burying the splice) I was wondering if anyone had any tricks or special tools they use to help.

Nothing special. I typically use a small awl to extract the core, and magic scissors* for burying if difficult 

*scissors, well shears technically, big enough to use the handle as a blunt object 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, mgs said:

Nothing special. I typically use a small awl to extract the core, and magic scissors* for burying if difficult 

*scissors, well shears technically, big enough to use the handle as a blunt object 

Do you start the attack with the sharp end or the blunt end?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, trimmer said:

Haven't run into any issues yet as I haven't started the project, but from experience splicing other lines with a tight cover (typically extracting the core or burying the splice) I was wondering if anyone had any tricks or special tools they use to help.

I long ago gave up stuffing the core into the fids and just use a coat hanger wire with a short L bent into one end.  Taped into the center of the core, the L pulls the core through cleanly and doesn't pull out mid bury.  

The joy soap is good.  The awl is good. The manufacturer's directions are good.  

Oh...another of my tricks?  Remembering to put the snap shackle in the loop before you start the bury.   Yeah...that's important.

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, IStream said:

Do you start the attack with the sharp end or the blunt end?

The Blunt end of course, I’m not a monster. 

Although may haps I should try reasoning with it first to get my point across, might save some time...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Left Shift said:

I long ago gave up stuffing the core into the fids and just use a coat hanger wire with a short L bent into one end.  Taped into the center of the core, the L pulls the core through cleanly and doesn't pull out mid bury.  

 

Using fids is like raping the dyneema. Not cool. 

I only use a D-splicer now. Might make one myself if I ever need one to be longer, but for just working with sheets and halyards, the ones bought from the store do the job. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, everyone.  I appreciate the help!

 

I saw the D-splicer and have a kit on order...Seems like the ticket as far as tools go.  I have the Selma's but they only get you so far...

 

Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, NORBowGirl said:

Using fids is like raping the dyneema. Not cool. 

I only use a D-splicer now. Might make one myself if I ever need one to be longer, but for just working with sheets and halyards, the ones bought from the store do the job. 

You can by an extra long XL series.  Love my d-splicers, but I've seen people do the same with a bent bit of stiff wire with a rope tail swaged on.

https://d-splicer.com/

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, European Bloke said:

You can by an extra long XL series.  Love my d-splicers, but I've seen people do the same with a bent bit of stiff wire with a rope tail swaged on.

https://d-splicer.com/

Stainless (I think) welding rod is perfect for this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

the d-splicer kit says only up to 4mm  ... you'd think with 4 fids they'd have a greater size range..

D-Splicer has fixed handles as well that go up to 10mm. I really like those. Selma fids work great as well. But not with Dyneema

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had to splice some NER WR2 this past summer and there was so much dye in it I had to beat it with a mallet it could loosen up and take the splice when I burried the crossover of the cover/eye back into throat of the eye. Eventually I got it to set however it took quite a bit of effort. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

the d-splicer kit says only up to 4mm  ... you'd think with 4 fids they'd have a greater size range..

Brion Toss has similar tools for the big stuff.

briontoss.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've just done my lifelines, not with wr2 but similar but the cover was so tight there was no way it was going over a splice so I ended up cutting the cover back, doing a splice with a brummel in the core, whipping it then covering the whole thing with adhesive heatshrink. The purists will hate it but I think it looks pretty sharp. 

Be sure to allow a heap for the set of the rope, in my 35' lifelines they have grown about 4" before they even start to look like settling down. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I contemplated the wr2, as the cover has nice properties for lifelines, but I went with 3/16" Samson dyneema, as I knew I could get the job done with little frustration, and a solid result. Yes I'm aware 3/16" is shy of the mm diameter spec'd in the rule book, but Samson (from Fisheries Supply) doesn't seem to make Amsteel in mm yet! 

I see mention of forgetting to splice the shackle on... I have been using the luggage tag method for years, and am yet to have a failure. Is there a reason why folks are choosing not to do that? 

Love the D splicer

Cheers, 

Amalfi

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this