IanA.

Young and Full of Promise

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These guys finally arrived today as well. Its the best solution I could find for the halyard turning blocks. 

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R.I.P Jim young                                                                         
 

The rocket is probably the first modern planing yacht design and still looking wicked after all these years .

 

keep up with the sterling work Ian 

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Yeah a bit somber loosing Jim. Even more motivation to get this refit along and get back out on the water. Its been a bit hectic with work and also selling our house to move somewhere with a bit bigger garage...

But cracking along non the less. Starting all the masking on the deck and figuring out where the deck hardware will go. Also finding all the last little spots that need sanding while crawling on my hands and knees laying tape lines.

 

 

 

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I got along to the funeral service for Jim last week and watched the sail past.

Everything from Tango to Relapse was out. Plus plenty of Y88s and a surprising number of 11s.

It was a nice farewell. Lots of talk of Camp Freddie. Where is she again? Plus the Y88 Keruru now on the English South Coast. It was originally built for Jim's son Frank and went to Singapore first off. I sailed on it in the late 90s. Scored a 4th at the IRC Nats with no optimisation.

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Yeah it was cool.  I managed to snag a ride on Honeywell/Thor .

camp Freddie is still in the UK and has been extended quite a bit , still owned by the expat kiwi boatbuilder I believe .

 

 

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Damn cool boat. Looked at the plan-view design and thought "Yeah that's a rocket all right".

 

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The guy who was going to spray the boat(has full size paint booth down the road) took a digger off the deck of another project and broke both his ankles. Poor bastard only owns a bicycle and lives at his shop so a few of the locals have been looking out for him, bringing him groceries, etc.. until he is mobile again.

So a bit of set back as I just got the boat fully masked, papered and ready for paint. Now with the summer humidty I will probably have to pull all the tape and do it over once I know when we can spray again.

So re-focusing efforts back onto the mast build and interior work. This year has barely gone to plan...

 

(throwback to simpler times)

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So push came to shove with getting the deck going. Decided on a bit of an expriement for the all the gloss and vertical surfaces. After a bunch of research I found a supplier of 2 part linear urethane paint(similar to awlcraft..) in spray cans. The kind where you pop the inner can and shake like crazy. It was a bit of a gamble trying to figure out the cost effectiveness of feasibility. I couldn't find anything online of other who have done this much surface area with the 2 part rattle can method.

Overall, Im sort of happy with the results. The spray quality from the can was better then expected. I had one of those trigger handle attachments which gave a spray gun sort of feel. The paint itself seems okay in quality, not as high solids as used to from spraying awlgrip and found I had to apply more coats then planned. (about 4).

My lighting was terrible and I didn't give myself the best working environment as the heat was killer and I couldn't stand up properly so was spraying from hands and knees around the cabin top. There are a few runs that I will have to take care of post curing. I think I would rate mysef about 60 out of 100 from a pro job and total cost at just shy of 360euros (including consumables).

For the prep, we did soap and water twice, then wipe down with Isopropyl alchohol using special paper shop towels and only swiping once per folded side. Was a pain in the ass crawling all around doing this but amazing what you would still pick up when re-swiping an area. The final wipe was with the same cloth but then using the water based silicone removing spray that also acts as a anit-static spray. I normally just use a wipe on anti-silicone solution but they guy selling me the paint said I should really try this stuff. It feels a bit like using break cleaner but the results were pretty outstanding. One can covered all the surfaces and it somehow was just that much cleaner then even after all the soap and alchohol. Im happy I ended up buying a few of these cans as they are my new go to for surface prep.

So anyways, it was worth it but probably at the limit of surface area achievable because of the running around, shaking cans and getting back to over coating before the surface tacks off. Giving it a solid 24 hours before going up there an will see if my opinion changes on the final result. Will keep you posted...

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Well I am super impressed with the paint quality and super happy that i've gone down this route.

It was a bit thin in some areas due to bad maths for how many cans I needed. Also had a few runs and some orange peel....  So decided to block it back one more time with the 3M 400 grit pads and will try to re-shoot this weekend.

I learned a few things from the first round and will try to apply those lessons going forward.

-Heat: Even though I sprayed mid-morning, it was already to warm in the shead. They paint is fairly thinned but I can't make any adjustments myself so I need to match the climate to my paint. A lot of the orange peel I was getting was from the paint flashing off before it had time to flow out properly. Also I think some humidity was at play inside the tent but not sure if this had a big effect or not. All the orange peel was mild enough that it could be buffed to a shine but would like to get this next round as close to the final look as possible.

-Lighting: The shed has skylights but with typical Dutch weather you have dark clouds blowing through so the light is always changing. I've riggeg up some party lights over head and will set up my shop lights and try to catch nice angles on all the flats. It won't make me a better painter but gives me a fighting chace.

 

Anyways, never would have imagined rattle canning my own boat but the 2 part cans are really impressive. 

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I've used the 2 part SprayMax Clear recently on my self made carbon bits and was also impressed with the hard finish. Time will tell how it holds up in the SoCal sun.

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Loving the spraymax system. Took some learning but the second round this weekend went off without a hitch. Went down today to start pulling off some masking and super pleased with the results. Definitly some orange peel here and there but that is purely from the operator. Will hit it with the denim pads and some cutting paste to get it to its full gloss.

The goal is to roll the kiwi grip this coming weekend.

I had the family deisel mechanic (takes care of the parent and also brother in-laws' boats) come by to check out the volvo and sail drive. After some discussion we decided its best to pull the motor and drive out for a full re-build as there is some suspect things going on. He's got a big shop as well so the new plan is that we will move the boat to his shed in 2 months for the winter where he can go to town on the mechanics side of things and I can finish on the interior. We are also moving houses in October and just happens to be much closer to his shop so that works much better for me as well.

 

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Next round of taping and masking going on. Getting closer to the final look... I made a test panel uner the boat were I used 6 different shaped/size toothed trowels for applying the kiwigrip and rolled it all out. Will check on it this afternoon and see what we like best for traction, attractiveness, etc..

Looking to possibly get this going sooner then the weekend depending if our nearly 1 year old will stick to her normal sleep pattern or not. 

Im trying to get quotes from a local vinyl wrap company that does boats in the area. Would really like to do the full repaint on the topsides but it seems my local guy is not going to be active for some time and the only other options in the region are superyacht painters who won't even pick up the phone when you call. So vinyl might just be good enough for the next few years until we take the boat somewhere else..

I haven't talked much about the rig in a while but the design has kicked off again. Doing some work in finalizing the layout(moving the hounds up 800mm) so we know what the laminate needs to be.

Im also messing around with the mast base design. Would really like to go with a mast jack cylinder but the one I have is looking a bit to big to fit inside the section and I don't want to buy a new one. Also its not totally needed for a boat this size, just cool to have if possible.

So looking to use the cup and ball system since it will be a tacking collar and needs some ability to articulate. The base of the mast tube would have a thick G-10 plate drilled and tapped for the stud of the ball to fit. I will have about 25mm of adjustment to play with and will just use some split shim washers as needed to fill the gap from the flange so the load is on the flange and not the threads.  Im thinking to mount the cup on a g-10 plate as well with slots for the bolt attachments to the keel step so I have some fore and aft adjustment to play with.

Basically a poor man's super serires 52 mast step. Shouldn't weight very much at least..

 

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This is the sample board for the different trowel sizing with the kiwigrip. Not sure yet what I like the most. Thinking going a bit grippier in the cockpit floor area since it will see the heaviest foot traffic and maybe something a bit softer on the side decks to save our asses. Luckily most of our crew works in the same office so i'm able to do a bit of polling for opinions. So far the trimming team is in favour of a more agressive approach while our foredeck(who bleeds on everything) wants to go smoother.

 

 

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Decided to play it safe and start small with the forward cockpit floor. I was a bit worried about ending up to rough so I figured this was the best area since it will get the most foot traffic and least amount of ass and knees. So far it looks really rough, definitly more then we would want for the side decks and coach roof. Want to give it a full 24 hours before walking on it though just to be sure. I want to feel it on bare feet before we decided on the final trowel sizing for the rest of the boat.

Anyways at least it is looking better by having some solid colors. Happy with the white on white combo. Definitly hides better any taping errors.

 

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The in-laws sailed over to our side of Zeeland for the weekend which meant we could take advantage of some babysitting. We managed to get the rest of the cockpit floor done with not more than the normal amount of argueing. It was near 40c in the shed so half of the work involved was sweat mitigation. Our technique is slowly improving or at least we don't feel totally unsure of ourselves with getting the texture we want. Its not perfect but it looks plenty good enough and we should have plenty of traction.

I really can't waiting to start mounting the deck hardware soon. Looking at some Ti bolts, washers and nuts for the main traveller (3 meeters of track is a lot of fastners) and maybe some other bits as well depending what the budget can handle..

 

 

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Looks great.  Congrats..

If you find a supplier with reasonably priced Ti hardware please pass the info along.  Everything I have found has been priced as if they were unobtanium.

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27 minutes ago, yoyo said:

Looks great.  Congrats..

If you find a supplier with reasonably priced Ti hardware please pass the info along.  Everything I have found has been priced as if they were unobtanium.

Depends where you're based and what your expectations on price are...

This is cheaper than what I can get in the EU currently. 

https://www.ti64.com/metric-countersunk-screws-s/110760.htm

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Thanks - I think I have seen that site before.  Sadly still hard for me to justify the price difference between Ti and 316.  Especially when I need to burn more $$ on a bunch of other stuff.  

 

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Fair enough, it would seems a bit counter-inuitive to use Ti bolts to mount an alloy toe-rail. I've gotten to the point where switching out the traveller fastners from SS will actually help save noticable weight off the transom. I won't for example use Ti for stuff around the mast collar, down below or on the cabin top. But will probably do some pins and other fastners up high on the new rig since the benefits are greater. Its a bit of a balance of price vs. performance and knowing where your own line is.

 

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That's a clean looking setup.  Was it custom made? 

Mast base turning blocks I assume.  

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Nice - Do you know if there is a published load rating for the loop base?

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Don't know anything published load-wise. But it uses 4 M10 bolts to hold her down which seems more then enough for my purposes. At most I will probably see less then 900kgf on one side at any one time and that would be at 45ish degree angles. The weakest link in this system would be the karver blocks. The big ones are .8tons mwl and the smaller are .6

What kind of loads are you running?

 

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Airing out some of the sails and deided to open up the storm sail bags. Found these guys, must be original from when the boat was built. Never seen a trysail for a sport boat before. They are both mint and have never been used from the looks of it. Might chop the pendant off and remove the lashings off the storm jib to make it potentially usable.

Not sure what to do with the trysail...

 

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19 minutes ago, IanA. said:

Don't know anything published load-wise. But it uses 4 M10 bolts to hold her down which seems more then enough for my purposes. At most I will probably see less then 900kgf on one side at any one time and that would be at 45ish degree angles. The weakest link in this system would be the karver blocks. The big ones are .8tons mwl and the smaller are .6

What kind of loads are you running?

 

Thanks -  I'm just surprised it doesn't show a load rating in the specs.  My loads are maybe a bit higher than yours.  I ended up going with Harken mast base blocks.  I might have considered that one if I had discovered it.  A bit late for this project but always keeping eyes open for the next.

If you do any offshore stuff the storm jib and trysail may be a requirement.  

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22 hours ago, yoyo said:

Thanks -  I'm just surprised it doesn't show a load rating in the specs.  My loads are maybe a bit higher than yours.  I ended up going with Harken mast base blocks.  I might have considered that one if I had discovered it.  A bit late for this project but always keeping eyes open for the next.

If you do any offshore stuff the storm jib and trysail may be a requirement.  

I think the storm sails need to be Hi-Vis material for Cat 1 now so I dont think these will qualify being white. Not entirely sure though but pretty sure. 

Maybe a rattle can of safety paint....

 

 

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When the time comes to need them check the current rules.  As of now I think you need at least 50% colored area on old white storm sails.  New storm sails must be full color.  There was a thread here awhile back about painting sails.  I'm too lazy to look it up but I think a high quality outdoor rated latex paint was suggested.

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Color of the sails matters based on their construction date. If they were built before a certain date then they are grandfathered in.

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That's right - I looked it up. 

World Sailing - "4.26.1 a) The material of the body of a storm sail purchased after 2013 shall have a highly-visible colour (e.g. dayglo pink, orange or yellow)"

US Sailing 3.33.2 "Storm sails manufactured after 01/01/2014 shall be constructed from a highly visible material"  

Out dated and not relevant now but I remembered reading something about colored patches.  Did a search and found this from ISAF dated 2012 -- 4.26.2 High Visibility a) Every storm jib shall either be of highly-visible coloured material (e.g. dayglo pink, orange or yellow) or have a highly-visible coloured patch at least 50% of the area of the sail (up to a maximum diameter of 3m) added on each side; and also that a rotating wing mast should have a highly-visible coloured patch on each side. A storm sail purchased after January 2014 shall have the material of the body of the sail a highly-visible colour.

Funny how memory works - just cant trust it as much as I used to..  

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Got around to the underside this weekend. Did a big fair up on saturday of the keel and rudder and then got a nice heavy coat of high-build primer on. Used Alexseal superbuild 302. Was the first time for me and was impressed. It mixed and went on much smoother than Awlgrip ultra-build which I am more used to. 

The next day I was able to convince some of the team to join in on some overhead bottom fairing. Was a hell of a job but we made better progress than expected. We used a variety of tools and learned a few techniques along the way. Our neighbor loaned us his Mirka Deros electric DA which gave me serious tool envy. We also had the old school Rupes powered longboard going which was pretty effective but weighs a shit ton and could only be used in short runs. 

We got just a bit past halfway which is a huge step forward for the program. Just need to finish up the back end and then can get solid coat of highbuild on and do the final fairing. 

 

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2 hours ago, Will1073 said:

I hate to be that guy... but maybe treat your crew to some PPE? 

Don’t be such a fascist. I’m almost offended you think I wouldn’t have safety equipment on standby for anyone that wants to come by and help.  
 

These are my two mates who also happen to be industry experts in marine composite manufacturing and know full well what all the risks are. On this day they felt like safety glasses, sandals and a few beers were appropriate for the work at hand. 
 

I’m no slave driver and happy to support anyone with whatever PPE they want to wear and feel comfortable with. When my wife is helping, she wants to be fully suited up with mask and gloves before I even open a can of paint. I obviously oblige her. 

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I have an old pair of boat shoes as my safety footwear. I always worry about tripping up in my jandals and spilling the paint. The current painting t shirt dates back to Cowes Week 2001.

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I was born and raised in the tropics so safety footwear is still a devloping concept for me.

Anyways I have been getting through the rest of the sails and trying to figure out what is what. So far there are 4 #1 genoas(2 light,1 medium, 1 heavy). There's also 2 others, one of which is a pretty straightforward finger licker. They other is somewhere in between. The bag has it labeled Code 0 but it isnt a code sail at all being that its fixed luff bolt rope for the tuff-luff. Its actually in really good condition given its age and doesn't look like it was used at all. My guess is some sort of light air reaching genoa, like a blast reacher but for sub 10 knots or so given the material weight.

Theres 5 kites, 3 are standard mast head asyms, the other two are fractional which doesn't make much sense since there wasnt a fractional halyard before. They are all pretty blown out. Theres also a plethora or random sail bags which are all toast with fucked zippers. Most of the bags are from different sailmakers than from who supplied the sails.

Theres also a clapped out #3, an actually pretty decent dacron #4 and of course the storm sails talked about above. I got rid of all the wire fittings and replaced with dyneema where needed.

I will try to ditch most of these, try and give them away where possible. Theres a few that can be re-used but most are toast for my purposes. 

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First round of bottom sanding complete. Was a hell of a job. Doesn’t look much in the photos but she is way more fair and ready now for primer. The mvp if this part of the project is definitely the Rupes electric longboard. She weighs about 4kgs but she sure removes material. I can barely lift my arms to drink a beer after that but totally worth it. 

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On 8/24/2020 at 11:42 AM, Tropical Madness said:

Damn! looking good. Cant wait to see the launch - how far away you think?

Thats the million dollar question! 

Really though... Would like to be out the shed and sailing by March, 2021. The main goal is to have all the substanial outside sanding and paint completed by Octoboer 1st. That means underside primed, faired and barrier coated(antifoul will go on just before launching)

Im trying to sort out the topsides now, either paint or vinyl wrap. Either way the surface needs to be smoothed out so theres a bit more sanding to do there. And I have to sort out with the wife about what color option we go with.

That way I can focus on building the mast and finishing out the interior through the winter. Its going to big a big push to actually make this all happen but its still theoretically possible......

 

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Got another section gripped. Plugging away between work, family, baby duties.

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Got some highbuild on. Sticking with the Alexseal, was pretty stoked with the results on the keel so far. Was working to build a lot of thickess at the waterline. Will need to get this really fair since I will be lowering the waterline to its correct position. Basically 3-4 coats on the waterline and 2 everywhere else. Will be a bit of longboarding to come but all part of the process. Just happy to get some white on there...

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Got a bit more kiwi grip on as well. Starting to get a feel for it, will probably have it down by the time I get finished with it...

Anyways pretty happy with the results and will be more happy when we are done with the stage. I'm getting itchy to start mounting some hardware..

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Having just spent the weekend wet sanding the reaction lacquer on my daughter's Starling, my arms are spent. Wish I could justify a Rupes for a 3 metre sailing dinghy!

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Bit of a delay on things. Went on quick surf holiday to the SW corner of France with the family. Back in Holland now but will be a bit hectic since moving houses at the end of this month. Will try to sneak away to finish up the remaining sections of kiwi grip and continue finsihing the high-build on the underside.

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Had these guys show up on my desk while I was out. Actually I already had the double 57mm block, but the car(missing 1 ball), toggle, and end stops are finally in. Still need to get some double 40mm carbo blocks for the traveler purrchase which attach to the toggle ears. Should be a beefy system when all said and done. I just need to go and actually measure out properly the length of track I need with the correct bolt hole spacing. The whole thing will be raised up with black uhmw risers to let water and other crap mostly flow under. 

 

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On 9/14/2020 at 2:43 AM, Jono said:

Having just spent the weekend wet sanding the reaction lacquer on my daughter's Starling, my arms are spent. Wish I could justify a Rupes for a 3 metre sailing dinghy!

The Rupes is pretty epic but you'd need a second mortgage to buy new. This one is an older model that was tossed out when it just needed new brushes and the cord repaired. I dabbled in boatbuilding profesionally out of high school but it felt like 90% of the job was just sanding and changed my focus slightly.

Now I just sand for sport I guess...

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15 hours ago, sjmiles34 said:

:lol:

Was wondering when you would show up to regulate/instigate.

Could use your hand on a few bits if you were ever allowed back in europe..

 

Do you like my solvent dispenser? 

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Loving this thread, so much hard work has gone on but the boat looks awesome! I hope you have a good scrubber for cleaning the kiwi grip later on though, its a bugger to keep clean but you won't slip on it!

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On 6/4/2020 at 8:26 AM, IanA. said:

These guys finally arrived today as well. Its the best solution I could find for the halyard turning blocks. 

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Interesting concept for turning blocks. There is nothing holding the arch (dogbone) in other than the loop of line in the block?
I see they have swivels too. 

The boat looks like fun.

On 8/11/2020 at 6:54 AM, IanA. said:

http://loopproducts.de/datenblaetter/Datenblatt_LOOP_Base.pdf

Cheaper/lighter than padeyes or fixed/standing turning blocks. Not a big fan or the Karver blocks themselves but its what I have at the moment. 

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The dog bones are fully captive. Theres maybe 1mm of play for the arched dogbone between the bottom SS plate and the alloy top plate. Do the dogbones can go anywhere unless you dissasemble the entire thing.

I wouldn't go with the swivel option, the stick to high up and sort of ruin the whole point of this low profile and sleek design. You might as well just mount padyeys or eyebolts. I think this whole thing is only really good if you're going with loop attachments like I have done. Its means a bit of custom splicing but the end result is pretty nice.

On a seperate note, had Steve Young drop by the boat briefly to check on the progress. He was passing through our office and I couldn't waste the opportunity. I've asked him to do a bit of digging for more design details for our boat. Was interesting to compare notes on what he did with Positive Touch. 

 

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On 10/21/2020 at 4:16 PM, IMR said:

Updates???

Yeah mate ! What’s the guts ? 

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Sorry guys, moved houses at the beignning of this month and got tricked into a few renovations by the misses that have been eating up my time. Feeling a bit guilty but cant change that now.

We did meet up with the local vinyl wrap guy to talk over some options. I don't want to give it away yet because its not 100% but we're leaning towards a more disruptive color scheme then I ever thought I'd have considered. 

Will be going in this weekend to finish up the Kiwi-grip and maybe get another coat of High build on the bottom. Will get some more photos for proof.

Also the in-laws spend most weekends on their comfy Maxi1100 in the harbor just walking distance from our new place which means we have a better setup for babysitting. This in theory should mean im not working on my own as much.

 

Pretty much a year ago now we got to see under her dress for the first time...

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I understand the home renovation they keep me from sailing all to often, well that and my three kids. 

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Brilliant thread, loving the quality of the work!

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Felt good to be back in the shed, which probably isnt healthy but it was nice to get back into things. Ended up just spending a few hours doing a massive tidy up and re-organization of tools and materials. Was starting to lose track of what I had and what I still need. Was somewhat meditative and general positivity of what I still need to do is there.

I then mixed up 1.1 litres of Alexseal highbuild and started rolling. I really hate painting bottoms because its difficult to do a good job and I can't stand thinking the boat might by slower because the paint is to uneven, So i'll probably end up burning most of this off again trying to fair it out. But its nice to see it white anyways for now and it does feel like a good step forward. 

Still need to finish the kiwi-grip on the foredeck and cabin top as well... 

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Got an early start on Sunday morning in the shed. The one year old is awake around 5am so my days are skewed a bit. Was able to stream the Vendee globe dock out and start which made working alone slightly less lonely.

Had a bit of spastic OCD and gave the deck a thourough cleaning, first a complete vacuum with the horse hair bristle and then a hand scrub with soap and water and then a final wipe down with 100% ethanol. The ethanol was mainly to get off some tape residue and some sort of bug shit the came off the shed ceiling over the summer. I didn't have enough carpet the cover all that I wanted and will try to get back this week after making a hardware store run. 

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Im sort of meeting my expectations where im finally getting a hang of this kiwi-grip right when im finally done with the deck. Its definitly not perfect but I finally have found my groove a bit with the amount of thinning needed for the given air temp as well as rolling techniques to get a consistent texture. Will be happy though when this stage is over as I generally kick myself if it doesn't look perfect. 

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One thing I really don't like with Kiwi-grip is that you need to pull the tape before it cures. I understand why you need to, I just find it to be a pain in the ass to go back to areas after you rolled and tobe able to pull the tape cleanly and without ruining the work you've just done as well as trying to to get the wet paint covered tape onto other surfaces. Its a messy process with lots of room for ruining clean surfaces. 

 

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Also got a new bench-vise mounted in the new garage so I could get started on re-furbishing the folding prop. Would way rather buy a new gori- 2 blade but that budget is long out the door now. Im stuggling to loosen the shaft nut on the inside to be able to pull the body from the spline. Got gas torch so will see what I can loosen up this week. I have a feeling this one will be a bit of a process. 

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Ended up having to order in a specific 27mm socket for the propeller job so decided to get started on some back plates for the winches. Will be doing a fair bit more of this work coming up as we start mounting more hardware this winter. Ended up using the 7mm c-plate for the primaries and 4.5mm for the cabing top. The decision had more to do with what I have in stock and what I think im going to need for some other hardware backing plates.

The 7mm is probably overkill but felt better than the 4.5mm for the bigger loads the primary should see. I went with 1 paint stick+1/2 diameter bic pen from the outside drum surface to establish the backing plate diameter. Seems about right...

 

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32 minutes ago, IanA. said:

. I went with 1 paint stick+1/2 diameter bic pen

:D

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I knew this part of the project was going to give me grief... The bloody shaft and hub didn't want to seperate from each other. I used the steel frame of the garage as a strong point and the bench vise as the means to wind on tension. This got scary tight and still no movement. I tried smacking with the mallet under load and still nothing...

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So I changed it up, added in a purchase an re-secured the dead end points to stronger bases. I dont have a load cell here but the 10mm heat set dyneema was carrying a high tune. Still no movement and I was either going to cave in the garage or snap something and lose an eye or a testicle. 

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So I decided to cut my losses (sad pun intended) and destroy the propeller in order to at least try and save the shaft. Was surprisingly easy with the carbide toothed cutter head from Fein. At this point I've come to terms with the financial gouge this is going to cause my and now my main focus was purely on salvaging as much as possible to avoid giving and more money to the Volvo mafia...

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The compression of the rubber dampner inside shot the side of the cut hub nearly into my face, wasn't expecting that..

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Had to whip out the ultimate destroyer tool (with carbide cutter) to do some very finite triming of the innards with damaging the spline on the shaft inside. 

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The shaft and bearings were pretty cruddy so I soaked them in a bath of mild Oxallic acid over night and then gave it a good scotch brite the nextday to get the rest of the gunk out. Its a bit rough in some places and definitely some wear here and there but I think it will past muster.

I was hoping to be able to salvage the outer bearing housing as well which is where the seals are fitted on the shaft to keep the saltwater and oil seperated. Unfortually after getting it all apart and removing the old seals, it appears the last person who changed these out didn't use the proper method of heating the housing while frezzing the seals to get them together. Instead they just hacked up the inside surface with a file until it fit. This is why I think there was water in the sail drive leg...

 

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So that was another 240 euros out the door but at least it was fast turnaround for the new part. I got the bearing race press fit into the new housing and the O rings on. The new anode is a good fit so now I just need the new shaft seals to show up in the mail and a new propeller...

I contacted Flex o Fold and Gori for pricing options. The Flex o fold is interesting with the composite Hub but im not sure I like the mini custom Zincs needed for each blade and I don't think the drag profile is as smooth as it could be. They want 1400euros for it but its not clear if it includes VAT and if thats EXworks or delivered.

The Gori guys are very slow to respond and still waiting for pricing. A bit frustrating as im generally an impatient person and I really want to get this expensive ordeal done and behind me..

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Managed also a couple quick hours at the boat. Decided to change things up at the last minute(always a great idea) and roll some straight white primer(545) on the remaining un-kiwi gripped section of the foredeck.

What I was doing on all the other sections was first rolling a coat of kiwi grip with a standard nap roller and then comng back when it was tacky to roll the grip layer. Was really happy with this technique but I have some space/confinement issues with the foredeck now and can only roll one coat and then I have to let it full dry before I come back.

So I used the 545 just to get the base more white so when I roll the Kiwi-grip, there shouldnt be any dark patches. I probably should have just done this for the whole deck to begin with but that was back then when I wasn't really thinking about foredeck painting logistics.

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I also got a few more coats of high build along the water line as it was still a bit to low to fair in evenly. No more stalling now, really need to buck up and get to fairing this...

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