Grande Mastere Dreade

need help from you furniture makers

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we had a guy build some cabinets...   this one drawer just won't stay closed.. i've raised the drawer in the slides as high as it goes, still issues.. so the question , how to i get this thing to come out so i can lower the back of the slide..  that black clip seems to hold it in, but it looks like i have to break it to remove the drawer,  and that little screw on the left inside the slot is just about impossible to get to..

 

IMG_0471.JPG

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20 minutes ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

we had a guy build some cabinets...   this one drawer just won't stay closed..

Have the guy fix his mistake?

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Have the wife ‘put stuff in it’, it will never open again without a fight.

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You push the black lever down on one side and up on the other. You'll figure it out.

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7 minutes ago, Ishmael said:

You push the black lever down on one side and up on the other. You'll figure it out.

The black lever can sometimes bend without releasing, a flat head screwdriver used closer to the metal bit can help

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10 minutes ago, Ishmael said:

You push the black lever down on one side and up on the other. You'll figure it out.

this

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25 minutes ago, Gissie said:

Replace then with soft close ones.

Be aware some soft close versions are thicker requiring more room between the drawer and cabinet

Dont ask how I know this

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10 hours ago, justsomeguy! said:

Have the guy fix his mistake?

don't want that fucker anywhere near my house... 

 

thanks ,  i didn't think up or down...    

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12 hours ago, Rushman said:

Be aware some soft close versions are thicker requiring more room between the drawer and cabinet

Dont ask how I know this

Thanks for the warning, at least something good has come from your cockup. :D

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29 minutes ago, Gissie said:

Thanks for the warning, at least something good has come from your cockup. :D

It does depend on the brand that you choose, not all sliders are the same

Goliath do a soft close version that is the same dimension as the basic slider 

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The soft close side mounted full extension slides suck, (or used to), and the drawer box will be too narrow and likely the wrong depth for the undermount style. 

Your drawer should close with those slides.  There's a detent to hold it in the closed position.  Perhaps they're mounted too close to the front edge of the gable.  

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Sawzall, with a demolition blade.

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11 minutes ago, luminary said:

Sawzall and sledge hammer. My favorite tools.

I like a normal hammer. I save the sledgehammer for the difficult to reach things.

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3 minutes ago, Ease the sheet. said:

I like a normal hammer. I save the sledgehammer for the difficult to reach things.

If at first you don't succeed, hit it with a BIGGER hammer.

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2 minutes ago, Ease the sheet. said:

I like a normal hammer. I save the sledgehammer for the difficult to reach things.

But nothing is difficult to reach with a sledge. Some things may act coy but come out in the end...

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When employed, my short handled  two pound sledge has yet to let me down.

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50 minutes ago, hobot said:

When employed, my short handled  two pound sledge has yet to let me down.

Do you pawn it when you're unemployed?

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I donate blood for extra money..

 

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Don't have it all the way out when you try to activate the levers. Push it in a bit then the levers will work and the thing will pull straight out. 

I cannot figure out why moving the drawer box up would help it keep closed. If anything the slides may be too deep in the cabinet keeping the retainer clip from fully closing.

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10 hours ago, hobot said:

When employed, my short handled  two pound sledge has yet to let me down.

I took apart a "hollow" door step with one of those.  unlike current cast steps, there wasn't a ot of hollow in that monster built in 1956. 3 inches thick, wire and rebar...it was lot of smacks.  i tried a long handle 8lber but it was unwieldy and tiring.  in the end, smack after smack close to the edges broke it apart piece by piece.

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11 hours ago, Point Break said:

Nothing says skilled craftsman like a metric hammer set.......

18-volt, cordless digital metric hammer set.

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2 hours ago, bplipschitz said:

18-volt, cordless digital metric hammer set.

:lol:

I am going to steal that...............without attribution and pretend its mine.

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3 hours ago, chester said:

I took apart a "hollow" door step with one of those.  unlike current cast steps, there wasn't a ot of hollow in that monster built in 1956. 3 inches thick, wire and rebar...it was lot of smacks.  i tried a long handle 8lber but it was unwieldy and tiring.  in the end, smack after smack close to the edges broke it apart piece by piece.

A couple years ago when I remodeled my master bathroom, I took out a shower pan poured in 1958...................OMG....................even the sledge was barely a match.............

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18 minutes ago, Point Break said:

A couple years ago when I remodeled my master bathroom, I took out a shower pan poured in 1958...................OMG....................even the sledge was barely a match.............

Usseng standarde or metrick?

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23 minutes ago, Point Break said:

A couple years ago when I remodeled my master bathroom, I took out a shower pan poured in 1958...................OMG....................even the sledge was barely a match.............

they done build shit to last in the '50's

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 Somebody remind me to never ask you guy's for advice.

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37 minutes ago, Point Break said:

A couple years ago when I remodeled my master bathroom, I took out a shower pan poured in 1958...................OMG....................even the sledge was barely a match.............

C-4

(Pro tip, use it sparingly.)

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18 hours ago, hobot said:

Sawzall, with a demolition blade.

 

have a late 90's porter cable tigersaw sawsall   made in the usa before they were built overseas ..

 

the drawer closes all the way flush with all the drawers, for some reason this one just likes to roll out on it's own..  too me it seems the rails are not level,  i tried raising the box on the slide as the front of the boxes screw was at the bottom of the slot on each side..        i was trying to get the drawers out, so i can see what's going on..   it's not soft close either.

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Here is that frigging pan.................40 feet thick with rebar (well.....maybe only 6 inches but still). And the second one is most of it finally in the bed of the pickup on the way to the dump. Jeepers that was a tough demo.................

Pan.jpg

Pan in PU.jpg

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i was super lucky on disposal of the bomb proof step.  my neighbour has a business doing pool installs and maintainence and was doing work in his basement.  he ambles down and says "don't worry", then backs his big trailer into my drive way so i could hand bomb the rubble into it!  Thanks Colton, yer the best!

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4 hours ago, Bluto said:

 Somebody remind me to never ask you guy's for advice.

Here, hold my beer!

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Just now, hobot said:
4 hours ago, Bluto said:

 Somebody remind me to never ask you guy's for advice.

Here, hold my beer!

Wache thisse!                                :)

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6 hours ago, Bluto said:

 Somebody remind me to never ask you guy's for advice.

You should remove that hyphen in "guy's".

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1 hour ago, Ishmael said:

You should remove that hyphen in "guy's".

 You should stop giving punctuation advice. 

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Just now, Bluto said:

 You should stop giving punctuation advice. 

:lol:

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9 hours ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

 

have a late 90's porter cable tigersaw sawsall   made in the usa before they were built overseas ..

 

the drawer closes all the way flush with all the drawers, for some reason this one just likes to roll out on it's own..  too me it seems the rails are not level,  i tried raising the box on the slide as the front of the boxes screw was at the bottom of the slot on each side..        i was trying to get the drawers out, so i can see what's going on..   it's not soft close either.

Take all the drawers out, cut a piece of timber that just fits between the base of the cabinet and the bottom rail, then check both rails are the same height above the base

Once the bottom rail is level, cut a second pice of timber to fit between the bottom rail and 2nd bottom rail, adjust if necessary.

Repeat as required, hopefully you will not need to cut more timber

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17 hours ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

 

have a late 90's porter cable tigersaw sawsall   made in the usa before they were built overseas ..

 

the drawer closes all the way flush with all thscrew e drawers, for some reason this one just likes to roll out on it's own..  too me it seems the rails are not level,  i tried raising the box on the slide as the front of the boxes was at the bottom of the slot on each side..        i was trying to get the drawers out, so i can see what's going on..   it's not soft close either.

Take an awl (or other fine pointy instrument) and poke a little hole above the existing screw into the wood near the center, or just up from center of the slot. Get  1/16" drill bit and drill a hole where you made your awl mark.

 Remove the screws and reinsert them in the new holes. In theory the slides should be level with the drawer bottom but having a little upward slant might solve your problem.

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17 hours ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

the drawer closes all the way flush with all the drawers, for some reason this one just likes to roll out on it's own..  too me it seems the rails are not level,  i tried raising the box on the slide as the front of the boxes screw was at the bottom of the slot on each side..        i was trying to get the drawers out, so i can see what's going on..   it's not soft close either.

It sounds to me like the problem is the slides are mounted on the cabinet out of level.  You have to take the drawer box out and check to see how level the slides are mounted on the cabinet.  If they are level, push each slide all the way in (without the drawer box attached) and see if either springs back out.  If that happens, there could be something jammed in the slide, preventing it from closing all the way. 

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1 hour ago, Jules said:

It sounds to me like the problem is the slides are mounted on the cabinet out of level.  You have to take the drawer box out and check to see how level the slides are mounted on the cabinet.  If they are level, push each slide all the way in (without the drawer box attached) and see if either springs back out.  If that happens, there could be something jammed in the slide, preventing it from closing all the way. 

this is what i'm thinking ,  but couldn't get the drawers out..        it's not the screw location , as I've raised the front of the box as high as it will go given the travel the screw gets in the slide slot...

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It could be that the entire cabinet box is twisted (installation error), so that one side is level, or slightly tilted "back", and the other side is slightly tilted "forward".....

 A level, and some shims should fix that, but you really shouldn't be having to do that. The guy did a fairly pitiful job from what I can see (torn out face veneer on the drawer side), but you should make him come back and fix it.

 

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43 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

It could be that the entire cabinet box is twisted (installation error), so that one side is level, or slightly tilted "back", and the other side is slightly tilted "forward".....

 A level, and some shims should fix that, but you really shouldn't be having to do that. The guy did a fairly pitiful job from what I can see (torn out face veneer on the drawer side), but you should make him come back and fix it.

 

 

you've probably never had to deal with east texas rednecks...  so no... getting it fixed isn't the issue,  it's getting those stupid drawers out because the stupid homeowner can't figure it out ...  it's my project tomorrow morning as i watch minnesota, maryland , and vanderbilt pull off upsets  :D

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1 hour ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

 

you've probably never had to deal with east texas rednecks...  so no... getting it fixed isn't the issue,  it's getting those stupid drawers out because the stupid homeowner can't figure it out ...  it's my project tomorrow morning as i watch minnesota, maryland , and vanderbilt pull off upsets  :D

Sometimes the full extension rails are difficult to disengage, there's a lot of friction at that point. Pull harder.

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3 hours ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

this is what i'm thinking ,  but couldn't get the drawers out..        it's not the screw location , as I've raised the front of the box as high as it will go given the travel the screw gets in the slide slot...

Depending on how the slides were mounted to the carcase, you might be able to tap the slides up or down.  Some of the screw holes in the slides are elongated to allow for fine tuning. 

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53 minutes ago, Ishmael said:

Sometimes the full extension rails are difficult to disengage, there's a lot of friction at that point. Pull harder.

... And have a pillow on the floor behind you.

 

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20 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

... And have a pillow on the floor behind you.

I won't ask you how you know that as long as you don't ask me how I know that's good advice.

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8 minutes ago, Jules said:

I won't ask you how you know that as long as you don't ask me how I know that's good advice.

Let's just say that right now I have a cracked rib, and I remember the last time I had a cracked rib, and how it happened....

(this one was not paying attention to where I was stepping, and tripping over a logging skidder rut in a partially regrown field.)

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10 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

Let's just say that right now I have a cracked rib, and I remember the last time I had a cracked rib, and how it happened....

(this one was not paying attention to where I was stepping, and tripping over a logging skidder rut in a partially regrown field.)

OUCH!

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2 hours ago, Jules said:

OUCH!

Not as bad as breaking my thigh in 2 places last June by tripping over my own feet chasing deer out of the vegetable garden..... That was a serious "OUCH!"

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On 11/6/2019 at 10:24 PM, Point Break said:

Nothing says skilled craftsman like a metric hammer set.......

Woodpecker's probably makes them....

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5 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

Not as bad as breaking my thigh in 2 places last June by tripping over my own feet chasing deer out of the vegetable garden..... That was a serious "OUCH!"

Buy vegetables at the market, growing them hurts too much....

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1 hour ago, warbird said:

Buy vegetables at the market, growing them hurts too much....

All the vegetables in the "market" here come from Mexico, or Chile.....

 All the good stuff grown here gets shipped up north.

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20 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

All the vegetables in the "market" here come from Mexico, or Chile.....

 All the good stuff grown here gets shipped up north.

Source matters?

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When you get the drawer box off the runners - trust me you will do this part - just check that the runners are not flexing downwards as the drawer extends, because if it is flexing downwards as the draw extends it effectively runs downhill  - check the ball bearing carrier has all its ball bearings loaded and operational. If the runners are full bottle and still flexing then possibly the fwit who built it, has used undersized runners for weight of drawer it is asked to carry.....

Once satisfied that the runners are as should be - with a little time and patience, as decribed above, establish them to set level or fractionally uphill (only a Mill or two)  will see you right.

I note from your picture that your runner mechanisms are right along the bottom edge of the drawer carcass - they do not need to be - so if struggling to remount horizontally - refix them a small amount higher up in completely fresh timber - just nut out your drawer face clearance when calculating  new hole locations.

Good Luck

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5 hours ago, Boink said:

When you get the drawer box off the runners - trust me you will do this part - just check that the runners are not flexing downwards as the drawer extends, because if it is flexing downwards as the draw extends it effectively runs downhill  - check the ball bearing carrier has all its ball bearings loaded and operational. If the runners are full bottle and still flexing then possibly the fwit who built it, has used undersized runners for weight of drawer it is asked to carry.....

Once satisfied that the runners are as should be - with a little time and patience, as decribed above, establish them to set level or fractionally uphill (only a Mill or two)  will see you right.

I note from your picture that your runner mechanisms are right along the bottom edge of the drawer carcass - they do not need to be - so if struggling to remount horizontally - refix them a small amount higher up in completely fresh timber - just nut out your drawer face clearance when calculating  new hole locations.

Good Luck

there's 4 drawers in the stack with the same hardware ,  only one has an issue  and since the weather was nice this weekend i went sailing instead...  :D

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6 hours ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

there's 4 drawers in the stack with the same hardware ,  only one has an issue  and since the weather was nice this weekend i went sailing instead...  :D

 

and now it's 36*...   good decision..

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