Marcjsmith

Refurb 1988 Moody 376

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Well I took the plunge from small boat to big boats.   Target date for being ready to use is March 1.    going to be a wild ride with lots of uplifting moments and likely just as many "what was I thinking" types of moments.

First day on the boat I removed half a dozen 50 gallon garbage bags full of trash.  old paperbacks,  20 year old boating guides, dozens of plates, glasses, cookwares, crab pots, casts nets fishing pole ect.,  I replaced all running rigging with messenger lines cleaned up V berth area, clean out anchor well started cleaning the bilge, removed damage teak veneer from cockpit sole and seats, flushed all scuppers.   the in boom outhaul,  did not want to be removed, and now my messenger line and the line i was trying to replace are stuck in the boom.  so I'll likely have to drill out the rivets on the endcap of the boom to access.  

 

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friends have one like that, located in Greece, have been sailing with them quite a lot : bloody heavy & solid yacht that is, backing it needs skill and luck so if you feel like adding a bowthruster then go for it, the one real problem was/is the electrical wiring and the big instrument panel ... bit of a disaster zone, but mostly due to previous owners adding stuff, then taking it out and leaving tons of cabling, most of it unused but only way to know is to disconnect and see what happens, the original documentation shows how/where the wiring goes but in a very simple way and there don't seem to be real electrical conduits, it's squeezed behind panels etc... so if you are stripping the inside for some reason then you might as well redo the whole wiring. Another problem area as the owners are not that young anymore is size of the winches, that's one of the reasons they like me to come along, I can still handle them but it's tough, they have been considering electrical winches for the sheets but cost is quite high and not any type can be built in.

 

sounds like time for your first crate

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When you removed all the crap it must have felt like you bought a bigger boat.

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The in-boom outhaul may have a purchase and the control line may dead end to a block becket. Ours is like this and you have to take an end cap off to remove that line, even then it's a bit tricky. 

Maybe try to bring the boom home with you to make it easier to work on. 

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4 hours ago, TUBBY said:

Sound like time for your first boat beer!

a bottle of Tito's was one of the things that I left behind on board.   when the bag of ice is fully melted/gone, then that means the day is over.

4 hours ago, Bristol-Cruiser said:

When you removed all the crap it must have felt like you bought a bigger boat.

it definitely helped make it easier to see what going on and easier to clean up.  I know some stuff is going to find its way back on board, just in a clean newer state, and quite possibly fewer qty.  the boat is heavy enough, doesn't need too much extra weight...

3 hours ago, Slick470 said:

The in-boom outhaul may have a purchase and the control line may dead end to a block becket. Ours is like this and you have to take an end cap off to remove that line, even then it's a bit tricky. 

Maybe try to bring the boom home with you to make it easier to work on. 

definitely has a purchase on it as I can see it through a hole in the end cap, but the hole isn't big enough for the block to come through.  with a 16' boom, getting it home in a hatch back that isn't much larger than a Prius wouldn't be my first choice.  

washed all the reefing lines, halyards, main sheet, jib sheet, and dock lines.  all came out ok, except for the topping lift,  it got "frizzy" on me  so I'll salvage what can of the parts that were protected by the mast and use it elsewere and I'll have to start spending the $$$

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Marc, 

I'm sure you will question it, but I think you bought a gem of a boat and one that will justify the sweat, tears, and bucks you put into it.  

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Once you clean the crap out, give it a good wash and buy yourself an el cheapo buffer from harbor freight. Compound the hull and then a compound/wax. You'll shine her right up and it'll feel like you've made real progress even though you have a long road ahead. 

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If you plan to paint the hull, please think Navy.  That would set off the cabin top and look awesome.  Any darker color but Navy doesn't get second-guessed.  Pictures and a progress blog would be appreciated and applauded.  

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2 hours ago, Cal20sailor said:

If you plan to paint the hull, please think Navy.  That would set off the cabin top and look awesome.  Any darker color but Navy doesn't get second-guessed.  Pictures and a progress blog would be appreciated and applauded.  

No plans to paint above the waterline except boot stripes, and maybe something near the sheer

  I’ve got pics of the boat with a dark blue antifoul and it looks sharp with the red and blue boot stripe.  But it does seem to need something near the sheer line....  to break up all the whiteness 

and some sort of stripe connecting the windows adds something as well based on pics of other 376’s

but yeah some spit and polish goes along way to make the progress look like things are moving along...

if I don’t plan to splash the boat until March.  Should I paint now, since we’ve got some good weather, or should I wait until a couple weeks before splash, knowing that Late February/early March are usually pretty chilly.  I know It also depends on paint formulation, or I’m looking at a scuff job before I splash.

 

i will keep this thread updated as progress is made.  And yes I own a random orbital buffer, that I will become intimately acquainted with 

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12 hours ago, bodega87 said:

Once you clean the crap out, give it a good wash and buy yourself an el cheapo buffer from harbor freight. Compound the hull and then a compound/wax. 

Make sure to wear at a minimum some foam ear plugs or a combination of the foam plugs and noise reduction earmuffs.

Tinnitus is not a very fun condition to have.

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Good sailing boat from my friend Bill Dixon. Built by Marine Projects (now Princess Yachts). Solid and simple construction, although one or two bizarre failures of rudder stock. Roomy and practical interior. Interior wood work quality pretty basic, but that means you can restore it. Cabin linings usually age OK. Plumbing, wiring etc decently done by the yard, but sometimes screwed around with by owners.

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CMS,  this boat had a complete rudder delam while going down the ICW back in 90, at least that's the story i was told by the PO.

He had a yard in NC weld some skins onto the frame so he could continue his trip.  Moody sent him a new rudder/post under warranty and paid for the shop time, hauling fees.  at least according the pile of receipts he gave me and correspondence from moody

I have a few hanging wires from one of the removed ceiling panels near the nav station.  looks like autopilot/instrument stuff. 

good friends with the owner so he'll be receptive to Q/A as it come up. 

all of the ceiling panel vinyl is sagging and has mildew staining.  my plan is to remove all the interior headliner and wall vinyl.  I figure the wood ceiling panels can be painted and put back up sans covering.

Electrical panel was replaced in 92  by a yard due to a lighting strike.  so I'm hoping that the PO didn't muck with it up too much.  Genset, hvac, refer, all installed by professionals, according to the receipts.

next visit will be Wednesday.  tackle the outhaul and pull all the chain out of the chain locker  and clean up that area.  I might have a couple extra hands on board which is nice.

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2 hours ago, Marcjsmith said:

next visit will be Wednesday.  tackle the outhaul and pull all the chain out of the chain locker  and clean up that area.  I might have a couple extra hands on board which is nice.

ah, yes, the chain ... one of my little tasks while on the Moody is that when they heave anchor I go to front cabin, there is a little door to the anchor well and the chain tends to pile up  to bottom of the windlass and block the whole thing, so a shove now and then to spread the chain around the well is needed. depends of course a bit on place of winch etc... but you might look into that later if it's a similar problem. Couple of years ago windlass stopped working, appeared that all electricity related to windlass was located in the -wet- chain well and was corroded all over, no idea if that was original or not so another detail to check. That Moody comes to its own in the typical Greece afternoon F5/6 blow

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1 hour ago, ROADKILL666 said:

And let’s not forget the cursing.congrats on your new baby.

Bloodletting as well...

25 minutes ago, Albatros said:

ah, yes, the chain ..

mechanical windlass.  so no electric to worry about yet.  and I understand about the possibility of the chain building up.  I just want to pull it out,  clean it, inspect, and mark, and clean up the area.  already though about repalcing the flimsy wooden door with a proper sealed hatch. and also thinking about relocating the drain so any water on the chain drains outside the boat and not into the bilge.

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Good luck with new boat

Did he not sell you the bottom half of the keel?

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10 minutes ago, Lynch said:

Good luck with new boat

Did he not sell you the bottom half of the keel?

Scheel keel.  draft of 4'6"  which is nice for the shallow water of the chesapeake bay, until you run aground and the soft mud sucks you in.

rumor has it the the loss of a foot  of keel depth didn't hurt performance too much.  but that's like someone telling you that your blind date has a nice personality...

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31 minutes ago, Marcjsmith said:

".... but that's like someone telling you that your blind date has a nice personality..."

Or. "... she has a great sense of humor and sews all her own clothes..."

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You sound enthused/excited/challenged, all good emotions.  I expect that by  the March splashing, that boat will exhibit some of the love shown.  

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56 minutes ago, Cal20sailor said:

You sound enthused/excited/challenged, 

We’ll see how long those emotions last...it’s still early

 

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21 hours ago, Mudsailor said:

When I look at the photo all I can think is, ‘who stole the 24” of keel’.......

They swapped out depth for length.  

Well today day was a good day.   Plumb bobbed  the tank.  No sludge, did a water test, no water.  Cleaned another section of the bilge, solved the out haul problem, took all the chain out 100’ and marked. Need a new  shackle for the anchor. 

The only bad thing was that after I installed new batteries, we were pulling 12v on one bank.  0v on second bank.  Only to realize that all 4 batts were wired as one big bank.  

Also unfolded the Genoa and main. Main is perfect, old, but fine,  the uv cover on the 150 Genoa needs some stitching.  The 100 jib has never been flown.

cockpit cushions cleaned up nice 

Topping lift,didnt  didn’t survive washing,  so I’ll need a new one.   So all and all a good day   

 

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so anyone got any ideas for a sail repair guy/gal  I asked a canvas guy i've used in the past,  but he doesn't want to mess with the sail.

Quantum has a trailer at herrington harbour,  but so far haven't gotten anyone to pick up a phone.

I'm in the Dc area,  so a trip to Annapolis isn't out of the question.  unless anyone knows of anyone in the DC Alexandria area

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Another good day.  Rain from Laura rinsed the boat as we scrubbed.   Got the batteries sorted out.  The entire bilge from stem to stern is now cleaned 

will probably remove the headliner tomorrow 

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So far you have probably doubled it's value.

Sadly from here things will feel to be happening slower for the same amount of work,  Don't give up this is a great start!

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Was by myself today.  Amazing how slow thing are when you are alone.   Was able to get shore power working,   Battery charger working, onboard 120v  outlets working.  Will be nice not having to duck under and around a power cord and power strip.   Had all the hatches open nice wind, low humidity...

took the time to remove the cover plates on the shrouds and baby stay.  Cleaned and bedded with bedit tape.  And then removed the spray shield over the sliding hatch.  Clean It all up and then bedded with the tape as well.

found out that the instruments are in place,  but not hooked up, the same for the radar.  All cords there, So going to have to figure that out,

will also need to install A 12v bilge pump.  Boat never had one.  Call me crazy, but seems like cheap insurance.   It’s got two manual pumps,  only the aft one appears to be hooked up.    Could I plumb the electric pump discharge  into the manual pump suction line using a Y fitting So I don’t have to run new hoses? Or would the hand pump  block the discharge of the electric?

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On 8/28/2020 at 6:40 AM, Marcjsmith said:

so anyone got any ideas for a sail repair guy/gal  I asked a canvas guy i've used in the past,  but he doesn't want to mess with the sail.

Quantum has a trailer at herrington harbour,  but so far haven't gotten anyone to pick up a phone.

I'm in the Dc area,  so a trip to Annapolis isn't out of the question.  unless anyone knows of anyone in the DC Alexandria area

Put them in the Quantum drop box and give us a call. We'll get them turned around fast for you. We do canvas too. When you call, ask for Mike.

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Thanks Ross.  But I made an appointment yesterday with Christine from canvas connections to pick up the sail and take a look at it.

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On 8/31/2020 at 10:42 AM, Marcjsmith said:

...

will also need to install A 12v bilge pump.  Boat never had one.  Call me crazy, but seems like cheap insurance.   It’s got two manual pumps,  only the aft one appears to be hooked up.    Could I plumb the electric pump discharge  into the manual pump suction line using a Y fitting So I don’t have to run new hoses? Or would the hand pump  block the discharge of the electric?

 You can,  but you need to add the y fitting to the discharge side of the manual pump.  To avoid back flow from either pump, add the y fitting just past the highest hose height of both pumps (like how an engine exhaust mixing elbow is set up).  

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Labor Day.....truer word were never spoken.  Had two friends over helping.  Bribed with pulled pork and smoked sausages 

i spent the better part of the day in port lazerete cleaning up the genset and changing the oil and filter.  Still need to change the impeller and flush the coolant. But In the processing of turning the genset over to pressurize the oil and fill the filter. It started and ran on its own for about 15 seconds before I shut it down.   small victory, unexpected, but nice...

my friends started striping the headliners out of the aft cabin and main salon area.  And removed all cushions from the boat.  Was really surprised has to how much condensation there was under the deck, between the deck and headliner. 

 

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When in doubt, rip it out.

It will be easier to rebuild and test stuff on your workbench at home , than crouching in the bilge or hanging upside down.

But please, get it sound to put in the water and take sailing, as a priority. You can camp in frickin' thing while you get all the systems sorted. You need a sound hull, steering, rigging, an engine that works well, and darn little else. Having it clean and dry inside will make it far more habitable than quasi working comfort systems.

And sailing fun, remember??

FB- Doug

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9 hours ago, Steam Flyer said:

But please, get it sound to put in the water and take sailing, as a priority. You can camp in frickin' thing while you get all the systems sorted. You need a sound hull, steering, rigging, an engine that works well, and darn little else. Having it clean and dry inside will make it far more habitable than quasi working comfort systems.

And sailing fun, remember??

FB- Doug

Being the boat has been on the hard for 5-6 years,  i guess the "nervous nellie" in me wants to put hands on everything to make sure its sound and working as much as I can before getting her  wet.  and i can only really do that one weekend at a time.  so the process is slow.  Trust me  I do want to sail and part of me wants to rush to do that, but I don't want to miss or overlook something critical.

If I put her in the water now,  i'll just be  pulling her out again at the end of the October.    The only reason that I could see rushing to put it in the water would be so I could move it closer to home for the winter haul out to make working on it a bit easier. 

When I have help  its nice,  as I can work on the technical stuff, utilities, electronics, ect.   and my helpers can do some of the more mundane tasks.

 

bringing all the headliners home,  gives me projects to do at home.  sanding painting cutting new panels...

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most of the luan is ok  there are three panels that are shit.  but I think I d only have ot buy one 4x8 sheet to get the peices I need

I'm going to need  alot more antenna wire.  the PO just ran the wire on the surface near one of the windows.  and Id like to hide it proper.  and same with withthe electronics.   I migh have to run wires for power  to keep the cords hidden.  detail stuff. 

from a painting POV.    my thought process is to paint alll the luan with Kilz exterior primer/stain blocker.  and then get a color match to the original vinyl with an exterior paint, and then paint the luan.  hangit back up and be done.

is there any particular reason to cover it in vinyl again?

 

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what does luan mean ? all I found was : Luan means “lion” (Albanian), “moon” (Portuguese) and “bells” (Chinese).

 

let's hope these windows don't leak, the Moody I sail on had the one that you partially see in pic above leaking and somewhat cracked, had it taken out, fixed and reinstalled and the comment from the german engineer who did that in Corfu was : never again will I try this, so if you would ask me to do the other side too I'll refuse, one reason was the weird form of the window and extremely hard to do without dismantling like you did, so if there is any problem with these windows, do it now while it's stripped.

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12 minutes ago, Albatros said:

what does luan mean ? all I found was : Luan means “lion” (Albanian), “moon” (Portuguese) and “bells” (Chinese).

 

let's hope these windows don't leak, the Moody I sail on had the one that you partially see in pic above leaking and somewhat cracked, had it taken out, fixed and reinstalled and the comment from the german engineer who did that in Corfu was : never again will I try this, so if you would ask me to do the other side too I'll refuse, one reason was the weird form of the window and extremely hard to do without dismantling like you did, so if there is any problem with these windows, do it now while it's stripped.

Luan.  AKA door skin.   usually 1/4"  or 1/8" thick plywood.   Ive always heard it referred to as luan...  https://homeguides.sfgate.com/luan-wood-99466.html

albatross,  yes i do believe they drip some.    they are currently covered with plastic on the outside just as a precaution.  my plan is to either  rebuild the windows with new plexiglass and reinstall the frames per the factory guidelines (i have the procedure from the moody website),  but I'm not overly fond as this means there are two seals to worry about.  the seal between the glass and frame, and the seal between the frame and cabin.  I know if done properly, should provide years of  trouble free service.

I was also thinking of using the 3m VHB tape, ditching the  frames completely and sticking the windows to outside of the cabin.  this means that I would then have to make some sort of trim around the exposed fiberglass edge inside, or reuse the interior frame as my trim...  the down side to this is the window, being mounted to the outside of the cabin,  would stick out 6mm.  upside,  only one seal to fail, and potential would give the old boat a somewhat more modern look...  but being that all the other opening windows have aluminum trim,  might look odd.

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Luan is called Philippine Mahogany around here. AFAIK it's actually a type of cedar.

I think you'll have a difficult time getting an acceptable painted finish on it - will need lots of sanding & re-coating.

Laminating it with "Arborite" (high pressure laminate) will be a whole lot easier and will give a better final finish.

If it was me I'd cover the luan panels with thin foam - like yoga mat material - then new vinyl - much easier on the head.

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jon,

painting/sanding.    I won't know until i try.  I don't expect to be able to hide the wood grain its going to show through. and even if I paint and it doesn't look good,  I could always then still go with some sort of headliner material and I'd only be about the paint. (labor is free)

I have enough vertical clearance that I'm only banging my head on the door frames right now.

your "arborite" is a lot like formica  which would not be bad...

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You can spread a thin layer of wood filler over the surface with a drywall knife to fill the grain, which should hide it. Many of the fillers can be thinned with water to allow for an easier spread and thinner coat.

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2 minutes ago, Slick470 said:

You can spread a thin layer of wood filler over the surface with a drywall knife to fill the grain, which should hide it. Many of the fillers can be thinned with water to allow for an easier spread and thinner coat.

i'm not so sure that the wood grain showing through for texture would  look all that bad...  there are parts of the cabin roof, near the galley and chart table that are  either glass or plastic that have a "leather texture" molded into them along with the color. so it matched the old vinyl.

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If that is the look you are going for, go for it. Maybe do a test run on piece that you aren't planning on reusing. 

 

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Nothing wrong with throwing some paint on there now to get sailing, then revisiting after a couple seasons if you're not happy with it. I tore out the badly mildewed vinyl in my boat and threw up a $20 polyester bedsheet for the first season, now I'm replacing it with some PVC foam panels based on what I saw in this thread.

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56 minutes ago, Slick470 said:

If that is the look you are going for, go for it. Maybe do a test run on piece that you aren't planning on reusing. 

 

i could break out my inner martha stewart, and do a faux leather finish...  :)

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3 minutes ago, andykane said:

Nothing wrong with throwing some paint on there now to get sailing, then revisiting after a couple seasons if you're not happy with it. I tore out the badly mildewed vinyl in my boat and threw up a $20 polyester bedsheet for the first season, now I'm replacing it with some PVC foam panels based on what I saw in this thread.

thanks for the link to the thread...

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The 'vinyl' cloth used has a 'furry' inside layer. This hides imperfections in the panel & allows for tight fitting edges as it can compress. I will wager that your existing panels will have 1/8 - 1/4" gaps around the edges to allow for the old vinyl. Test fit! I would definitely consider replacing entirely with a plastic sheet that has the desired cosmetic finish - waterproof, easily cleaned, light.

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3 minutes ago, longy said:

The 'vinyl' cloth used has a 'furry' inside layer. This hides imperfections in the panel & allows for tight fitting edges as it can compress. I will wager that your existing panels will have 1/8 - 1/4" gaps around the edges to allow for the old vinyl. Test fit! I would definitely consider replacing entirely with a plastic sheet that has the desired cosmetic finish - waterproof, easily cleaned, light.

no doubt about the gaps and less than aesthetic plywood edges.   something with zero maintenance would be nice.   I think short term paint is going to win out.  I still gotta stay somewhat budget conscious

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And the hits keep coming.    Ordered ignition switch is close but NQR. So back it goes.

and found something that resembled a sponge but was actually wood...  so more interior removal...

Got the stern running light working, yay

but the bow light needs new wires from the deck gland fitting fished through the pulpit..booo

Got the dinghy mounts reinstalled and bedded was able to trace power to the vicinity of the instruments  yay.  

But no power to the base of the mast for the masthead/steaming/anchor/deck lights...booo

 

 

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Keep posting this stuff.    It is posts like these that make me stick to houses.   So much easier.   :)   The threads do a great service to show just how much work and skills you will need rehab a boat.  In this case a rather well built boat IMHO.    What do you find next?    Today I found rotting bundles of $20 bills and what appears to be solidified cocaine! 

 

Thanks

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24 minutes ago, Kent H said:

...    It is posts like these that make me stick to houses.   ...

I don't know about you but I have put way more time into my house projects than my boat projects, which included replacing bulkheads and completely stripping and putting new epoxy bottoms on two boats, and significant interior modifications on one boat.  I have owned boats at least 12 years longer than I have owned a house.

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Kent

been down the road on a home fixer upper.  Bathroom, kitchen, floor, roof, siding windows.  Nice thing about homes,  much more room to work on things.  And much better return on investment...

i knew going in I’d have some work to do...  

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Working on houses is easier and cheaper until you get to stuff like roofing or digging out old plumbing. That sucks, but you're still not throwing away benjamins to hang upside down with your hair in bilge water while you try to fish wires thru a bulkhead (insert any of 100,000 other impossible tasks here).

People will at least pay real money for the finished product, with houses. When you fix up your house, your wife smiles at you like sunshine.

FB- Doug

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6 hours ago, Steam Flyer said:

That sucks, but you're still not throwing away benjamins to hang upside down with your hair in bilge water while you try to fish wires thru a bulkhead

Wires do not belong in the bilge so you probably deserved that. ;)

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6 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:
6 hours ago, Steam Flyer said:

That sucks, but you're still not throwing away benjamins to hang upside down with your hair in bilge water while you try to fish wires thru a bulkhead

Wires do not belong in the bilge so you probably deserved that.

Hair is poor conductor, too

- DSK

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Semi productive day.   Wen looked at friends J boat who’s getting ready to cast off and cruise...

we ended up at my beast, and worked on troubleshooting electronics...

got electronics jerry rigged to power up.  Depth, knit meter, wind speed, and autopilot remote.  Raymarine st60 group of instruments

could not get the autopilot to function...but not having all instruments properly powered might have something to do with that.

could not get the radar powered and operating. Furuno 1621,  Could not even get the screen to power up.  Given its age, and the fact that I’m not likely to need it on the Chesapeake bay, it’s likely to get removed.    Maybe pull a messenger line with the cable, so if I ever decide to put one back up. It will at least have the cable run In place...

its mounted on a pole in the aft deck, so don’t need to club the big pole...Maybe just turn the radar mount into a flag pole..  or just remove it and plug the holes...

 

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15 hours ago, Marcjsmith said:

got electronics jerry rigged to power up.  Depth, knit meter, wind speed, and autopilot remote.  Raymarine st60 group of instruments

 

a little factoid on ST60 displays, suggested to me by a guy who installed and serviced that lot for years, was that the connections on the back of the display/control unit sometimes have a tendency to vibrate themselves into a "just not contact" situation,visual inspection does not help, it looks all ok, not saying this would be your problem, but in my case it avoided me to spend lotsa $$$ when one of the ST60 displays (don't remember which one) decided to go mute, quick solution was unplug all and plug again, fixed.

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albatross,

i need to get some of the 1/8" connectors,  but I just used a test clips running from the instrument power supply to ensure that they all turned on and functioned. before I got over zealous with wiring them all up...

the auto pilot didn't work either  but its a raymarine st4000  so i was frustrated, but I started digging through boxes that came with the boat and found a NIB Raymarine ST6002 S1 wheel drive.  I thought it was just the box from the unit that was mounted and was storing stuff.  nope  brand new (well 10-11 years brand new)

just added another task to the todo  list, not a critical task,  but while the ceiling is opened  makes sense to run all the wires though...

 

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ran wiring on Sunday and did the final hook ups on the instrument cluster.  need to climb the mast to replace the anemometer and direction sending unit.

ran new wires for the autopilot drive unit, ran new wires for the mast lights.  tried to run new wires for the bow running lights (failed)  didn't do a good enough job with the tape and the string.

installed ignition switch for the  main engine.

we had about  an inch and half of rain in my makeshift rain catcher.  none of the usual spots inside showed any showed any water., and my damprid hanging bag, is also showing a lot less water, Ive been marking the bag.  still had about a gallon or of water in the bilge.  so water is getting in, but not manifesting it self in the usual places.,  Also not noticing nearly as much condensation inside, when I visit the boat

tried to turn over the engine.  but no joy.  just the resounding thunk of the the starter trying to engage.  so time to start that investigation. 

Well we knew it wasn't going to be all good.  even a unicorn needs to take a dump once in a while...

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Sounds like excellent progress. Less water inside is a major plus! Will make the boat easier to work on for the next round of projects, too

I am struggling with battery charger issues, so please don't think it's a perfect world on the other side of the fence!

FB- Doug

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Steam,  yeah I know even a working boat is a project....

visited the behemoth today after work.  since I could not get the engine to rotate by hand or starter,  I figured I pop off the injectors and take a look inside the cylinder.  my bore scope  sucks,  but it showed nothing strange.  took a few pics,  and video.  you might get motion sick if you look at the video sorry.  injectors took some persuading to get out.  I understand  marvs mystery oil and PB blaster are good for this sort of thing,  so I sprayed some PB and dribbled some marvs into each cylinder.  and walked away.

plugged up each cylinder with some paper towels to keep any crap from getting in there and will bring back a socket, and breaker bar and try to get it to rotate this weekend. and I'll take the starter out and go get it checked.

I'll take the injectors to work and let the bus mechanics take a look and see what they think about cleaning and service, or just leave em be...

took about 2 hours to get the injectors out and fluid squirted in.

any special trick to getting the impeller out.  other than pry it out and replace after lubing up the new one?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBxr0yfCY3g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbFDEaLRpGg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIkdv0oxlBI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6Zq5BIuu-c

 

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I see you have that great heat exchanger with the Gatling gun "bundle" of tubes suspended in those stepped end caps. Brilliant piece of design and super easy to service.

The paint on those rubber end caps tells me it's all original so I'd take them off, pull out the bundle and take it to a radiator shop for boiling in their hot tank if it doesn't look pristine.

Clean the paint off the rubber caps so you can examine their condition - they are worth some work because they are very expensive - mine cost me a couple of hundred $$ 15 years ago.

While it's apart, paint the heat exchanger tank and polish those embossed hose clamps and buy a new pressure cap. When you're done you'll have a thing of beauty and a cool engine for many years.

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That cylinder wall doesn't look too clean, you risk wrecking the rings or maybe scoring a cylinder wall if you're not careful.Screenshot_20200929-192333.thumb.png.cb8ec69f7cb6575c42b41bf6e10f9eca.png

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SL

when I looked at the vid. I though I was able to see  the faint reflection of the  top of the piston in the cylinder wall.  In your screen grab it has a smidge of red on the wall.  My bore scope has a fitting that allows 90* side ways look, but I’m worried that if i put it on that it would fall off inside the cylinder...which would be bad.

no I do not want to break a ring which is why I’m going slow. Let the chemicals do their thing.  And with a big socket on the front pulley. I may be able to slowly rock the engine back and forth.

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Still no luck on getting the engine to rotate.  So I did more damage elsewhere 

removed starter to be tested, and raw water strainer, which ended up being being strainer, seacock and thru hull

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Also tried to tackle the external ground/zinc,  but it did not want to play nice either

So I sprayed it and will let soak..

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That zinc stack is some world class engineering. Complete with silicone between the layers?!!

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1 hour ago, longy said:

That zinc stack is some world class engineering. Complete with silicone between the layers?!!

So,  if I can’t get it to play nice,  cut it off and start new,  Replacing it in kind.  Or go a different route....

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Do not replace 'in kind'. Unless you have to replace the bolts thru the hull. That mount should hold a single slab of zinc, which has a metal bar running thru the middle of it, with holes to go over the two studs. Each stud will keep one nut up tight to the hull, then the zinc mount plate, then the double nutted securing nuts. It looks like the proper zinc wasn't available and some yard monkey made up a slab just to be able to bill for replacing the zinc. All those joints greatly reducer the efficiency of the whole lump, and if that really is some sort of caulking between the layers, almost no effect at all.

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longy,

so if the nuts and bolts are friendly.  take it all off and put a new single slab with proper nuts to separate the slab of zinc from laying against the hull and double nuts to to keep if from falling off.  or should the zinc lay against the hull

if the bolts coming out of the hull are not friendly.  remove and replace?  or is there a better way to do this?

it does have a shaft zinc as well...

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I don't see the point of one of those big slab zincs on a glass boat - they are for metal boats.

Put more zinc on the shaft and/or find out and fix the cause of needing that much zinc.

 

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6 hours ago, Marcjsmith said:

longy,

so if the nuts and bolts are friendly.  take it all off and put a new single slab with proper nuts to separate the slab of zinc from laying against the hull and double nuts to to keep if from falling off.  or should the zinc lay against the hull

if the bolts coming out of the hull are not friendly.  remove and replace?  or is there a better way to do this?

it does have a shaft zinc as well...

Bolts should be bronze, go easy on the big hammer. New zinc should sit just clear of hull so both sides of zinc are exposed/active. These hull mounts are used as they are much easier to connect all the (inside of hull) bonding wires to, and there is definite continuous contact to zinc. Some trans do not have good/any electrical continuity to shaft, there might be a plastic vibration dampener. Another way to do this is a 'shaft wiper' which is an arm that presses against shaft, but these can have lots of issues also. A hull mount zinc is sure fire connection/protection (as long as zinc is active) Shaft zincs may/may not have good electrical contact through transmission, and it's hard to connect a lot of wires to the trans. So view shaft zincs as protecting shaft & prop.

     Zinc sizing - easiest way is monitoring by a good diver, should last about 6 months. Smaller (less drag) just means replacing often. Larger  is more drag, and you can actually set up a 'reverse' current through the boat. In wood boats this erodes wood around fasteners, I don't know of any adverse problems on a glass hull

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Got the windows out....  had to wash the boat,  birds took target practice to heart recently 

Planning on scraping the keel soon and priming it...  bow lights wired up had to remove the steaming/deck light.  

Removed the radar unit and support pole. Didn’t have a chance to pull all the wires yet.

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9 hours ago, Steam Flyer said:

Dang you're taking her right down to the bones!!

FB- Doug

I have to have something to do while the engine soaks...  we knew they leaked so it made sense was a nice day to do it.

radar didn't work, would not power up,  plus the pole was ugly, no lost love there.  the gland for the cables is still in place,  I need to make a proper  seal/plug for it.

I might start sanding som eon the interior tomorrow/sunday  and slap some paint up just to see how it looks.

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17 minutes ago, eastern motors said:

Looks like you have a good time while working on the boat...

we work until we run out of ice...  10lbs  seems be the perfect amount...

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On 10/5/2020 at 8:14 AM, SloopJonB said:

I don't see the point of one of those big slab zincs on a glass boat - they are for metal boats.

Not true. Plate anodes are very common on fiberglass boats. Primarily powerboats but they are used on some sailboat models as well.

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14 minutes ago, fstbttms said:

Not true. Plate anodes are very common on fiberglass boats. Primarily powerboats but they are used on some sailboat models as well.

so find someting that fits the spread of the bolts, leave a gap between zinc and hull if it has a hydrodynamic shape, all the better...

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Sanded / scraped  the keel and primed Also did a test paint inside just to see how it would look color matched to the vinyl

but.....the best news of all,  the engine rotated.  And it rotated freely.  It did not feel gritty I did not feel any hangups. Also confirmed transmission functionality  my airline pilot cousin in-law happened to be in town and he wanted to see the boat.  So while I was working on the keel he was futzing around with the engine.  It was his hands that broke it free,  so he gets  credited with the “w”

so on a whim, I reinstalled the starter. Yeah the same one that the auto parts store guy said didnt work.  Guess what, it works. Spun the engine over.  

Yesterday was a good day....

still a ways away,  but the big ticket item appears in much better shape today, than it was a week ago.  I slept pretty good last night

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Well the engine lives and breathes.  It ran today...

it was a rainy nasty day,  which was kind of nice. I was able to locate a few leaks,  gland fittings for the mast wiring a couple of previously repaired dodger snaps, and one of the shroud cover plates that I had bedded leaked.  So,  I’ll get to do it again.   Had it not been raining. I may. It have noticed the leaks

also removed the raw water pump and replaced the impeller 

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rebed the leaky gland fittings and shroud cover plate.  supposed to rain today  so maybe tomorrow I'll see if i was successful.

also started sanding on the hull.  basically where the existing paint is "alligatoring" or has peeled.  I'm sanding back as far as it will go until it starts to feather in which tell me there is a half way decent paint bond...  so in some spots I'm going down to gelcoat and in others. maybe only a few layers if I don't see any cracks in the paint.   It is slow going.  wind kicked up real bad and started blowing my tent away.  so I had to shut down.  took about 2 hours to get 1/8th of the hull done.  I've been using muscles that I've never used before.

got the window frames home,  and I'm not as hopeful on that front.  while I think I may get them apart, not sure they'll ever clean up.  Half a decade of sun baked taped goodness.  I'm really starting to think that the 3M VHB tape is the way to go and eliminate the frames all together.  if I go that route,  then It affords me the option to do a redesign on the shape somewhat.  maybe get rid of the pointt ends and square them off a bit. and also take time an clean up the edhes so the lines are straight.  it means I'll have to make some trim for the inside to hide the raw glass edge.  but thats not critical to boat operation.

I'll have to take a good side pic and start some photoshop.

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Be very careful about redesigning the shape of your cabin windows - they have a huge effect on the looks of your boat.

I have rarely seen redesigned ones that didn't degrade the looks of a boat - designers spend a lot of time getting them right.

Try cutting your proposed shapes out of black poster board and taping them in place first

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