Iips for painting a Laser hull.

[Admiral Hornblower 191]

35 minutes ago, Steam Flyer said:

Orange peel is difficult to avoid. Making sure the surface is totally free of oil or wax is the usual prescription.

You're not going to make much progress with 1000 grit. I'd also suggest that you really don't want to create bumps & hollows at this stage... if you've been using a batten/longboard then tell me to shut up... but my suggestion is to use one and drop to 600 grit. Do this until the shiny spots (the low area) are ju-u-st starting to disappear. Then start shifting up in grit to 800, 1000, etc.

Your surface doesn't look that bad, frankly. Next time I refinish a boat I am going to ask YOUR advice!

FB- Doug

Thank you, as always!

 I'll give it a go with the rougher grit.

45 minutes ago, Bill5 said:

A few decades ago a guy in our club painted his Fireball with the same result. He claimed he did it in purpose and called it the “golf ball effect” and resulted in reduced drag. His nose was growing as he spoke...

LOL

[Teener 124]

I have been here enough times to justify $300 for a proper Bosch 1/2 sheet orbital sander.  One of my better investments.  I budget tools separately from tasks.

Follow post #32 steps 11-14.

[Admiral Hornblower 191]

I want to install two inspection ports on my Laser for air flow, on in the front and one in the back. Where the best place to install these on a Laser?

[thengling 104]

Is this for drying out?
Other than that, I can't recommend a location, though -- one of the worst places to locate one (beside the obvious) is just beyond reach of backing for important rigging. 
Incidentally, a while ago I read elsewhere in Dinghy Anarchy that someone blew apart his (5O5?) when he aimed the "blow" end of a shop vac into an inspection port.