Blur 92 #1 Posted December 28, 2020 Any pointers/tips on how to arrange for twin tacklines on the J/111? The top/left one is from SD Boatworks (tried to get in contact with them). The bottom/right is Ramrod. Would prefer to keep the inside dry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teener 104 #2 Posted December 28, 2020 Which do you prefer? Floppy fairleads or fixed fairleads? Seems obvious to me but what do I know? I really like that picture in the lower right, my 3d printer aches to make it, and the drill can stay in the toolbox where it belongs. In case you were wondering what the rules of the game are, you may only use the drill on pop-rivets. Drilling out carbon fiber is strictly prohibited. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwoLegged 779 #3 Posted December 29, 2020 I am curious why you would want two tacklines. I'm sure that Blur knows what they are doing, but I can't see any use other than flying a blooper or doing IOR-style spinnaker peels. What have I missed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Controversial_posts 87 #4 Posted December 29, 2020 Assuming you're running asym kites, peeling from the A2 to the reacher or code zero. Or vice-versa 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowden 271 #5 Posted December 30, 2020 If the idea is to do code zero peels, do you want to set one up for a dead-ended 2:1 tackline? Can't see how you would achieve that on either of the designs posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blur 92 #6 Posted December 30, 2020 Today we run the code from 1 meter out on the sprit, and a typical scenario is going back and forth between code and A3. With a new Helix Code that is run from the end of the sprit, we want to perform the same sequence: Hoisting an A3 outside and just furling the code - unfurling the code and dropping the kite. Plus that the furling works much better on a 2:1 tackline (see photo above for dead-ended port tackline). Additional benefits would be the ability to do proper peels (today we use a short peeling strop and move the tackline before tripping the strop) and also as a backup if something breaks. The downside is more complexity and added weight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T sailor 41 #7 Posted December 30, 2020 Blur, Do you put the peeling stop at the inboard end of the pole or tacked somewhere else? I am guessing the operation is something like this for the tackline: Hoist new kite inside old tacked to a strop at the bow. blow the tack of the old kite (use a martingale to blow the tack shackle) retrieve tackline from pole end using martingale line and attach to new kite. Release the strop from the new kite and grind the tackline down. thanks, T Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blur 92 #8 Posted December 30, 2020 50 cm peeling strop from the bow or the "code loop" on the sprit (that you can reach). We just open the tackline jammer & bowman retrieves it directly from the sail and runs forward to connect. Key thing is to get the old kite down cleanly and the new one to fill, so plenty of time for the bow to do his thing. We've been talking about different ways to trip the tackline, but ended up with a very basic setup. Things tend to get tangled up in 24 knots at 03:00 AM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T sailor 41 #9 Posted December 30, 2020 Thanks. That sounds simple. The remote tackline trip seems like a good opportunity for things to get screwed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites