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      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

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johnkimura

TackTick Race Master battery replacement

18 posts in this topic

The older Race Master compasses take a finite number of charges after which charge is not stored. The only solution is to replace the battery as with Ni - Cd powered products.

 

 

A New Race Master is now $900 and some say the battery cost all of $20.

 

 

Tackticks will take back dead Race Master and offer a small amount off on a new compass, which ends up being a lot of money.

 

I would like to replace the battery myself and would welcome advice regarding removal of the back plate of the case, the model # of the battery, and a vendor from whom to purchase.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

John Kimura

802.425.2218

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Well, I always thought that it can´t be done without breaking something...? It is not waterproof anymore if you open it using violence. It can´t be opened without it?

 

So I´m very curious too...

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Not sure how you do it, but if you want to know how to do it right, my guess is that you could call the U.S. importer for Tack Tick; Ocean Equipment in California (949.588.1470).

 

I've had to call them a few times to set up some warranty's for a couple of RaceMaster's and Micro's, and O.E. has always been real helpful.

 

Good luck.

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Matubu thanks for the reference to Pelle - somehow I missed his post in the search.

 

FYI the Tackticks policy is

 

Currently the tacktick system is as follows:

 

0 - 2 years = Full replacement no cost

2 - 3 years = 50% discount

3 - 4 years = 35% discount

4 - 5 years = 20% discount

 

So if you have a 4 y/o racemaster which now costs $900 MAP and the return is 20%, if replacing the battery for $20 plus cost of some glue, the savings is $700.

 

In the end Tackticks should have designed with a waterproof access panel to allow low cost swop. Customers would have been alot happier.

 

I must have half a dozen friends who are in the same situation, who would rather not cough up $700 to get the numbers back on the mast.

 

John

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I had mine go dead a while back. I put it in the back glass of my car for two straight weeks and the battery finally took a charge and it is good now. Don't keep them in their case, put them in a window sill or somewhere they will get light.

 

But, if that won't work, the best way to get the back cover off is to use pressure. You need to screw some kind of valve/fitting into the back of the thing. Then, you pump air into the tacktick and the back of the thing will just pop out. I haven't done this, but I understand that there was some guy that was repairing these things for a while and that is how he got into them.

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Not battery related, but is there a way to adjust the contrast. We have one that attaches to our main hatch but is not visible due to the angle when in the cockpit or out on the ama. You basically have to look down at it, or mount one on each side of the boat, as you can't mount it on a rotating mast.

 

Hey John hows the 24? When are you going to give us a ride? Make you a deal, I give you a ride on the F18ht, and you can give us a ride on the M24

 

Tri

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Tacktic can eat butt hairs

Pomie bastards

They don't tell you how to get the stinking thing open, now do they? Why do you think they don't?

The secret is in the plastic sticker on the back, if you look closely you will see a grove where a sticker fills a half inch width. Peel this off to expose the small fastners inside, disasemble without breaking it.

You then unsolder the battery, visit electronics store, purchase new one. Re solder and Bob's you Uncle.

 

Lovely outfit they make me want to install their wireless system on my 37 not.

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Tacktic can eat butt hairs

Pomie bastards

They don't tell you how to get the stinking thing open, now do they? Why do you think they don't?

The secret is in the plastic sticker on the back, if you look closely you will see a grove where a sticker fills a half inch width. Peel this off to expose the small fastners inside, disasemble without breaking it.

You then unsolder the battery, visit electronics store, purchase new one. Re solder and Bob's you Uncle.

 

Lovely outfit they make me want to install their wireless system on my 37 not.

Thank you 40 grit, you are a scholar and a gentleman. Nice work. The Tacktick will live again soon!

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It's been a few years, if I remember correctly: once you are past the decal and inside, you will find 6 or 8 cells all in parallel. There is a ribbon connector that interfaces the buttons, it has a sort of lock that you slide up. After you have just the pcb assembly you need to gently bend back the LCD displays, make sure you bend just the leads, and don't put pressure on those leads where they are sandwiched in the glass LCD screens. Have some de soldering braid and a pump available to you - both cheap.

 

When I had 2 or 3 cells removed the unit sprung back to life - a sure indication that one or more of the removed cells had an internal short, robbing you of the charging and operating current. Anyhow, I had the cells (sorry I forget the product number) so I replaced them all.

 

I remember looking up the specs on the originals, they were to have a life span of 10 yrs, and funny, they are not available anymore. The replacements have worked fine over the past 2 years or so.

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Thanks every one for comments.

 

40Grit and Wendna provide the most accurate procedure for battery replacement

 

The power is supplied by four Sanyo ML2430-TT1.

 

The equivalent may be purchased at

 

http://www.ebatts.com/part_b-331.aspx?equiv=ML2430-TT1

 

for $9.95 each including shipping.

 

It is possible to replace the cells without bending the displays if using appropriate solder removal equipment.

 

Also be careful to not damage the 10 mil track close to the battery solder terminals.

 

Again thanks,

 

John

 

PS we have two of them and are replacing the batteries in both units. The fix in parts cost $80 versus replacing the part at $1800 less the 20% tacktick would place toward the replacement. Note calculation for two Race Master compasses.

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I want to thank all for this great thread, will save me some cash and frustration.

 

I've had a TT for almost 8 years now. Love it. I keep it sitting in a window sill to keep it chaged when not using it on the boat. I knew battery replacement would be an issue soon.

 

Thanks again nice work.

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Sent back a Racemaster to OE today. Would not power up, expect it is the battery but not sure. It is less than two years old but is also the second failure of a new unit in less than two years. It is covered under warranty but only by 12 days. 13 days from now and they would skid me for $450.50!

 

For $900 bones, these things should last longer or be cheap to fix. I smell some out-of-warranty profiteering going on. Bastards!

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Now if someone could tell me how to get a Sailcomp control keypad open that would be very cool. I want to replace a worn rubber button strip with a new one.

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<<<<Sailcomp? Wow...you're old school. Way to go.>>>>>..

 

Hey, I like DooWop music too.

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A few notes on my experience. My Tacktick Racemaster was six years old. One race day I took it out of the pouch and it would not turn on. Left it in the sun etc for several days, no joy. I decided to change the batteries. My local TV repair shop did the soldering. I'm dissapointed to say that the unit still does not work.

 

The advice in the posts above is accurate regarding opening the case. In cracking the case, my opinion is that the battery design and implementation is crappy. For $900 the unit certainly should have readily replaceable batteries that can easily be sourced. It would be so easy for Tacktick to modify the battery installation to use snap in batteries - that they don't is a shame.

 

One note on the ML2430 TT batteries - the tacktick terminals require tapered leads and my new batteries did not have them. The shop was able to modify them, though. But if you attempt the repair yourself you will need to know this.

 

Any other ideas I can try on my unit????? Thanks in advance.

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Hello:

I can replace the batteries in the older white TackTick race Master units.The new batteries will last 5-10 years and are the OEM batteries . E-Mail me at tpcook@videoautomation.com for details

I can also replace the batteries in the newer black units and all TackTick units

 

Thanks

TpCook

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