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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  
stinky

DC Designs

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Coffee bags from Duncan Doughnuts "Box O Joe" also work well.

T think Chis meant T nuts not well nuts.

I wouldn't trust the neoprene things.

I have been pretty happy with 3/16 pins or shoulder bolts( if you can find them) for spreader attachment.

 

The hounds can be a 1/4" stud between two marine eyes with nylocks on the outside.

Or you can use aircraft eves and drill and tap them for 1/4 28 thread and wind them on directly.

In any event you want the clear threads all the way through the spar. The nutted solution is slightly stronger because the shrouds themselves are not hanging on a tread.

Van Dusen puts some patching in the hounds area, but you probably want to add some more.

 

I like T terminals, but have concerns about how they hang in the mast. I want all the wires to land at more or less the same height, but don't want that many holes in one place. I've also had both good and bad results with the conventional installation, so I do something differently

post-738-094775800 1331571099_thumb.jpg

The backing plates are tacked to a tube the same diameter as the mast. A laminate is packed over the top. This sleeve is released, trimmed sanded and then bonded to the mast. The holes for the t terminals is then cleaned out. As you can see I am not consistent about whether or not to rivet. This maximizes the bearing area of the backing plate, adds laminate around the holes and is easier to do than carefully cutting the holes, and pulling the T terminals into place.

 

Rod rigging is an art project, I do it because I have the rod and the rest of the stuff. It isn't really necessary. I would probably just use 1/19 if I didn't have a ton of the stuff left over from C Cats.

SHC

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Bladders from Chateau du box [fit the bill, just leave a little space for heat and density altitude expansion before you seal the cap.

The SS barrel nuts are the choice, 3/16" washer head bolts make a sexy look on the spreader bracket.

As for rod rigging SHC is the expert there. We're old school out here, 1x19 or die-form. We generally use the 'Gibb' 'T' lock & plate for attaching shrouds but have seen 1/4" marine eye termals bolted thru. the thru bolt option survives longer when the mast wall thickness at the hounds has been doubled or thereabouts.

Keep the pix comming, looking forward to seeing her splash,

good luck !

quote name=El Crapitano' timestamp='1331565408' post='3622569]

I will be cartopping. My car rails are solid and have been tested with 120 lbs of bikes.

 

Milk jugs for bouyancy work better on paper than real life. They are larger than the holes in the bulkhead and the space under the deck. So wine bags are coming from a brewmaster supplier.

 

It's almost time to drill the spreader pivot holes. Are the Well Nuts that Chris uses the neoprene rubber encased nuts like in the picture, or are they solid stainless barrel nuts?

 

Are rod rigging shrouds a do it self project or is there a source? I need to sort out what the fittings at the hounds will be. I'm assuming that tangs are not used and the shroud fittings bolt directly on.

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This is the mold for my spreader bracket. The carbon goes around the triangular piece in the middle and it gets clamped into the bottom piece using the three parts at the top of the picture. The bracket has sweep and dihedral. Unlike some of my earlier work, this part came out of the mold easily.

post-32376-009600800 1331691613_thumb.jpg

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This picture shows the spreader bracket with the uncut spreaders around the sleeve. The spreader bracket needs some trimming to size and the pivots need to be installed. The spreaders are airfoil sections with a carbon center spar. Filler is added to the inboard ends of the spreaders to make them fit in the bracket.

post-32376-091296200 1331692169_thumb.jpg

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These are the upper and lower gooseneck parts. Both need holes drilled in them for the gooseneck pivot and cunningham lines. The bottom part in the picture has a recessed annulus milled in it so it fits atop the mast stump. It needs a square hole to accept the 1 inch square anti rotation steel bar. The bar will be throughbolted in the mast stump and the mast. The dark marks are where the smoke that set off the smoke detector that made the auto dialer call the security company that called the fire department formed. Just another rookie mistake.

post-32376-023391700 1331692625_thumb.jpg

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The gooseneck will go together like this.post-32376-099849000 1331692796_thumb.jpg

 

I just figured out how to attach more than one picture to a post.

 

The mast stump is sleeved internally to spread the bearing loads of the anti twist bolt.post-32376-071343600 1331692909_thumb.jpg

 

I used excess mast material that I kerfed. The mast looks better with the internal reinforcement than if I had laminated the outside. Both ends of the stump have reinforcements and a third one will go into the mast butt.

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Hey, so who's going to pass the news about the IC midwinters to the website guy?

 

Sail A Canoe Day at RYC is this Sunday. It will also coincide with the first splash of USA 245. May she be fast!

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If you are using a halyard lock that requires hoisting the sail higher to latch/unlatch then 1.5 " is plenty.

Looking good.

& anxious minds want to know the Mobile Bay Midwinters results. ??

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IC MID-WINTERS report. Three days of racing with breezes @ 8-16 knots. 8 boats competed, results as follows

1st David Clark

2nd Steve Clark

3rd Bill Beaver

4th Karl Klienstrodt

5th David Gilliland

6th Don Brennan

7th Willie Clark

8th Eli ?

 

11 races sailed, lots of break downs, sore muscles, and swimming. Steve Clark has the scores and also some pics. He and the clan are just getting back home; so maybe he'll give a report manana. I will tell ya this; David Clarks USA 150 is blazing fast!!!

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For those who missed it Buccaneer Yacht Club and Don are a great reason to head south in March. Thanks to all of the volunteers who made this a great weekend of sailing canoes. Thanks to Steve for making the long trip and for bringing in new faces. Special thanks to Eli and Bill and David who spent the big bucks to fly in and play. Enjoyed being part of this group. Oh and the oysters and shrimp were to die for.

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IC MID-WINTERS report. Three days of racing with breezes @ 8-16 knots. 8 boats competed, results as follows

1st David Clark

2nd Steve Clark

3rd Bill Beaver

4th Karl Klienstrodt

5th David Gilliland

6th Don Brennan

7th Willie Clark

8th Eli ?

 

11 races sailed, lots of break downs, sore muscles, and swimming. Steve Clark has the scores and also some pics. He and the clan are just getting back home; so maybe he'll give a report manana. I will tell ya this; David Clarks USA 150 is blazing fast!!!

 

150? Is that Alice on yet another diet? Oh wait I think she was 93 or something. 150?

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So, Mr. Maas, what is happening with your foil shaped folded foam?

 

Anything class legal?

 

When I try to put my epp variant through the required hoops, bad things happen...

 

Paul

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For all those who aren't as good as the amazing craftsman we get on this thread...

 

post-60-001130000 1333299348_thumb.jpg

 

post-60-051165800 1333299370_thumb.jpg

 

This is my prototype halyard lock. Painted with an odd bit of half dried up paint because I needed something that was a contrasting colour to the spar.

 

The white rope is the halyard

The black line is the trip

 

Pull up the halyard and the stainless shackle pushes the bail out of the way and engages with the hook, usually first time, occasionally pull it down a couple of inches and try again.

 

Release the halyard and tug on the trip (which just comes out of the bottom of the mast with a loop on the end) and the shackle disengages from the hook and the sail just pulls down.

 

I wasn't originally planning the big solid lump that joins the two halves of the bail, but I got nervous:-) Not so much about in use but about having it drag on the bottom if I tip the boat in in shallow water. It has hit the bottom a couple of times and survived.

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Speaking of craftsmen, that looks really neat, and it should avoid the problems I've seen on other systems when it won't release. Only question/concern, how do you avoid the possibility of something swinging around and catching the release? Would be really unfortunate to have your main just drop mid-race on a breezy day...

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Speaking of craftsmen, that looks really neat, and it should avoid the problems I've seen on other systems when it won't release. Only question/concern, how do you avoid the possibility of something swinging around and catching the release? Would be really unfortunate to have your main just drop mid-race on a breezy day...

You could cleat off the halyard I guess, which would effectively lock the thing in place, but there isn't anything that can catch it at the top, and there isn't much at the bottom of the mast either. It does need a pretty firm pull to operate the trip too: its not like a trigger release. No doubt it will prove me wrong the next time I find myself doing unexpectedly well in a race... Mind you I have to get healthy enough to be able to sail again first.

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Hellcat has hit the water!!

 

If your April Fool's Day lacked for tomfoolry...or even if it didn't... read the exploits of USA 245's first splash here: http://international-canoe-usa.org/?page_id=90

 

Tons of photos were taken at the event, but I don't have any of 'em yet, so give me a few days to get them up on the website. For those of you who sent me photos of Mobile, thanks...I'll get 'em up once the scars heal from this weekend.

 

I have seen at least one video of the event. I need a few days to edit it for content. I think it has a few seconds of me sailing along looking competent.

 

Thanks to all the US canoe folks that helped me get to this point!

 

Next US IC regatta: Big Dinghy, Richmond YC Apr 14-15th. Who's coming?

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Excellent:-)

 

Good to see it... There seems to be something about the launch of new boats that leads to embarassment. The last time I launched an all new boat the string on a toe strap came unknotted and I disappeared over the side to come up with a two piece tiller extension...

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Great write up, sounds not unlike my second venture out on the IAC this weekend. Didn't look like much breeze from the shore, or as I got away from the beach, but turns out a nice lumpy F4 was lurking out there and certainly made for an interesting 2nd sail!

 

Still learning how to string the thing together, my old boat, a Blaze, had nowhere near the number of sails or controls to rig, adjust and then (apparently if you can actually think of something to let go of long enough without baling in) adjust again!

 

I ticked off some more boxes though;

 

Hiked off the end of the seat - damn it's fast from out there on a tight reach!

Fell off the end of the seat - and remembered to let go off the extension :-)

Got washed half-off the seat, hung on with one leg and go back onboard - well flung back on by next gust anyhow!

Tacked and gybed by going behind the boom, instead of under it

Fell out the back of the boat - twice, just to make sure I know how to get that right in future

Capsized a lot - check

Found out why shin pads come in handy - check

Cursed my 2-4-1 cocktails inspired fuzzed head and complete lack of fitness frequently - check

Smiled a lot - check

Still smiling writing this and thinking about it - check

 

Looking forward to the long Easter weekend - some light breezes hopefully, get the kite up again and practice my swimming a bit more. Hope the water warms up soon!

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My mast is complete except for dodads to hold the shrouds onto the spreader tips and holes for the anti rotation pin at the bottom. The mast stump is complete too, just needs to be bonded in place once the dance floor is there.

 

I need to measure the length for the shrouds so the mast had to be raised. A piece of wood between the chainplates keeps the structure intact:

 

post-32376-095260000 1334171012_thumb.jpg

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I marked the shroud lengths with the mast tipped slightly forward of vertical - 2" at the hounds.

 

The jib went up so I could mark for foredeck hardware:

 

post-32376-051678300 1334171334_thumb.jpg

 

How much adjustment do I want in the shrouds?

 

Is 1/8" Dyform the right stuff for shrouds? Or is 3/32 strong enough?

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I marked the shroud lengths with the mast tipped slightly forward of vertical - 2" at the hounds.

 

The jib went up so I could mark for foredeck hardware:

 

post-32376-051678300 1334171334_thumb.jpg

 

How much adjustment do I want in the shrouds?

 

Is 1/8" Dyform the right stuff for shrouds? Or is 3/32 strong enough?

Very good question, will be fiddling with my boat at the weekend now its out of store and will measure the adjustment I have on the shroulds, I think I have 3.5mm Dyform but thats over kill, 3mm is OK, but I think 3/32 may be a bit thin??

Alistair

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Did I never post photos of sailing USA 245 for the first time?

 

===================

Absolutely gorgeus!

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well done !!

I remember my first sail out of there in Chris's new boat.

I also remember having some difficulty in my boat, with the wall, exiting the harbour.

don't tack too close to the damned wall !

cheers K

 

Did I never post photos of sailing USA 245 for the first time?

 

P1060711.jpg

 

 

 

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I marked the shroud lengths with the mast tipped slightly forward of vertical - 2" at the hounds.

 

The jib went up so I could mark for foredeck hardware:

 

post-32376-051678300 1334171334_thumb.jpg

 

How much adjustment do I want in the shrouds?

 

Is 1/8" Dyform the right stuff for shrouds? Or is 3/32 strong enough?

Very good question, will be fiddling with my boat at the weekend now its out of store and will measure the adjustment I have on the shroulds, I think I have 3.5mm Dyform but thats over kill, 3mm is OK, but I think 3/32 may be a bit thin??

Alistair

 

Measured the throw on the fore stay/ jib , seems to be about 90mm and the shrouds about 70mm. System still not quite right yet, I have 4:1 on the forestay and 18:1 on the shrouds, think they could both do with being a bit more, sailing this weekend in about a force 4 ish (perhaps a 5, very changeable) and the shrouds where waving about quite a bit. Not helped I am sure by the dyneema on the purchase system, prob should have Vectran. Had a great first sail of the season!

 

Steve- great to see another boat launched, read your report and it sounded very like Dragonfly's first couple launches, always eventful when you have a new boat and have been stuck in the shed building it for a while!

Alistair

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Measured the throw on the fore stay/ jib , seems to be about 90mm and the shrouds about 70mm. System still not quite right yet, I have 4:1 on the forestay and 18:1 on the shrouds, think they could both do with being a bit more, sailing this weekend in about a force 4 ish (perhaps a 5, very changeable) and the shrouds where waving about quite a bit. Not helped I am sure by the dyneema on the purchase system, prob should have Vectran. Had a great first sail of the season!

 

 

 

Thanks Alistair. I have the hardware to do 18:1, could become 36:1 but that would take 2.5 meters of line pulling through the blocks to adjust 70mm. hmm....

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Been working on the carriage rails. My original plan was to build two of these 8' tubes (.75" sq inside, .10" thick walls) and fitting one to port and one to starboard:

 

post-32376-077951900 1334628389_thumb.jpg

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The rails will needs slits in the top for the carriage to slide in, and some gubbins inside the tubes to retain the carriage. They fit into the shape molded into the hull like this (the demo part is an end castoff of the real tube):

 

post-32376-069725800 1334628736_thumb.jpg

 

After looking at the rail, I realized that maybe this one tube can be split into two C shapes that would retain the carriage SHC style. My question is will .15" of overlap between the retaining gubbins and the top of the C shape be enough to capture the carriage securely?

 

The carriage exists.

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This is the carriage standing on end inside the gunwhales:

 

post-32376-074539200 1334629082_thumb.jpg

 

There is .25" between the inside of the hull and where the carriage fits.

 

Chris made the carriage so don't assume I have skills.

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This is how the gooseneck and mast receptacle turned out:

 

post-32376-063197900 1334629713_thumb.jpg

 

The white part is delrin and fits inside the mast. The square aluminum tube transmits any rotational torque from the mast into the mast stump via the cross bolt below the top half of the gooseneck.

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After looking at the rail, I realized that maybe this one tube can be split into two C shapes that would retain the carriage SHC style. My question is will .15" of overlap between the retaining gubbins and the top of the C shape be enough to capture the carriage securely.

 

I think that would depend on how stiff the hull is where the gunwhales are. Is your deck a significant distance below the gunwhales? If it is you may get sideways flex in the topside panels. When the plank hits the water at speed you get a big racking moment which will tend to spread out the carriage rails so the the two diagonally opposite corners of the carriage will come out of the rails if they are an open C shape. I would be inclined to stick with the closed U shape.

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The deck will attach to the underside of the carriage rails.

 

Should be OK with the open C then, if it's a neat fit. The other thing to watch is that you have enough bearing area with the inserts. I'd make them the full length of the carriage rather than just at the corners. This is just to spread the load along the track to minimise deflection of the flanges of the C.

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Some years ago Erich Chase gave up on the commercial plugs as they tend to sprout legs and be on a hike when you want to go sailing. So he found some 1/4-20 nylon machine screws from the local hardware store for the perfect lo-tec lo-cost replacement.

If you haven't glued the transom panels to your Maas Machine put a little extra filler in the lowest corner near the centerline and mark the location on the outside. then drill a hole and tap with a 1/-4-20 slide an 'o'ring on the plastic machine bolt insert and voila, done.

The drawback is if you didn't reach the goal of building a watertight hull it'll take a bit longer drain thru the smaller hole.

Great work.

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Re lost Bungs: The cleaverest idea I have seen is from Greg Wise, Moth and IC sailor from Sth AUS. He uses coke bottle tops. He glues the top of a plastic coke bottle into his transom, and can find plenty of new caps on any beach anywhere in the world.

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He glues the top of a plastic coke bottle into his transom,

That's depressingly brilliant... brilliant because it ill work, and depressing because there's enough litter for it to work!

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He glues the top of a plastic coke bottle into his transom,

That's depressingly brilliant... brilliant because it ill work, and depressing because there's enough litter for it to work!

 

And when I'm feeling a little 'crazy', I'll change from a Coke bottle top to a Pepsi one, and then back again!

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He glues the top of a plastic coke bottle into his transom,

That's depressingly brilliant... brilliant because it ill work, and depressing because there's enough litter for it to work!

 

And when I'm feeling a little 'crazy', I'll change from a Coke bottle top to a Pepsi one, and then back again!

 

woah :o

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Mk 12

 

 

 

 

 

 

anyway, more fiddling with non toxic glue in search of light structures

post-906-014443200 1336017477_thumb.jpg

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Hemlock, 4mm okume, Titebond 3, no screws or nails. I'm afraid it (hemlock) will splinter. Is there any wood that is straight? So far, the framework looks like it will weigh 10-15 lbs. It's a lot less hassle and $$$ to use Indonesian 'marine ply'. Not as light as Joubert, but I don't need to have it sent overland freight. CLC Joubert nice though, but with shipping pricey. CLC Cypress ( for chine logs, shear clamps etc.) started doing curly cues when it experienced our low humidity here. Using a Pratt Truss ( well, it will be a Pratt truss some of the time) made from hemlock struts as a strong back, in lieu of plywood, which i have discovered weighs a lot, what with my preference for end butting plywood sheets.

 

Will be using marine spar varnish for sealing, finish on hull.

 

Rather monolithic compared to some of the projects I've seen here.

 

Anyway, foil ordered from Phil's foils, tracks etc. will be ordered soon, sail, mast and boom here. Bruce Peterson down at the Gorge a big help there. Getting a bit stoked.

 

Oh, 3" rocker.

 

Paul

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Cool Paul.

 

You can find vg fir that's as light as sitka spruce, straight and strong. Western red cedar is great if you want more glue surface for the same weight.

 

Keep us posted.

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Thanks Chris. This is the most intense fun Ive had outside of a recording studio.

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Must admit Ive got the next iteration in my head already. Any good outlets for vg or Western red cedar on the wet side of the state? 17.5' lengths available?

 

Using Hemlock because it's available niceley milled, with slightly rounded edges, so 'print through' is less of a problem. At least that's my theory.....

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Must admit Ive got the next iteration in my head already. Any good outlets for vg or Western red cedar on the wet side of the state? 17.5' lengths available?

 

Using Hemlock because it's available niceley milled, with slightly rounded edges, so 'print through' is less of a problem. At least that's my theory.....

 

Amati,

 

Try these guys: http://macbeath.com/

 

I just picked up some teak from them a week ago.

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Must admit Ive got the next iteration in my head already. Any good outlets for vg or Western red cedar on the wet side of the state? 17.5' lengths available?

 

Using Hemlock because it's available niceley milled, with slightly rounded edges, so 'print through' is less of a problem. At least that's my theory.....

 

Amati,

 

Try these guys: http://macbeath.com/

 

I just picked up some teak from them a week ago.

 

 

Or maybe Compton Lumber in Seattle.

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Raised the mast a second time, this time with real shrouds. They appear to be about the right length:

 

post-32376-068458200 1336962805_thumb.jpg

 

I learned that I need to learn how to rig up without a deck and a son handy.

 

I also learned that I don't know how to install full length battens. All of the full batten sails I've owned had camber inducers.

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The dance floor is trimmed to the hull but not for the mast hog so its not slid all the way in, and the carriage rails aren't clamped in place either:

 

post-32376-088667300 1336963155_thumb.jpg

 

I was planning to tab in the dance floor but looking at the forward end where it meets the hull contour its going to be a trick to preinstall the tabbing underneath. Maybe globs of bog instead?

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I've lost sleep over installing a limber hole in the main bulkhead. Drill won't fit. To install backing plugs for jib cleats, I spun a router bit by hand because there was no access for a power tool. Not fun. Ended up grinding down a beat oscillating tool blade to make it narrower. Five minutes later the limber hole was there. I filled it with bog and pushed a bic pen through the hole. Done once the epoxy cured and the pen came out. I can sleep now.

 

post-32376-005073500 1336963843_thumb.jpg

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The dance floor is trimmed to the hull but not for the mast hog so its not slid all the way in, and the carriage rails aren't clamped in place either:

 

post-32376-088667300 1336963155_thumb.jpg

 

I was planning to tab in the dance floor but looking at the forward end where it meets the hull contour its going to be a trick to preinstall the tabbing underneath. Maybe globs of bog instead?

 

 

Gobs of bog, or a precisely applied bead, does the trick.

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The plan was to install the dance floor today, but the centerboard trunk didn't pass the leak test. I forgot to fillet the forward edge. :blink:

 

This shows the trunk along with the Gybe Lock mechanism. The Gybe Lock needs a bit of finishing. The mast stub step isn't in position. The hardware is for the vang and cunningham attachment.

 

 

post-32376-003421300 1339033538_thumb.jpg

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Results from Ottawa

1st John Kells

2nd Willy Clark

3rd David Clark

4th Steve Clark

 

Made the trip to Ottawa for the 9th annual Skiff Grand Prix for the first time in a couple years. Got some extremely variable if not down right strange conditions, but managed to get some good racing in when we were able to figure out what was going on. Pretty flukey stuff but John was on the right side more than the rest of us. Was great to see Paterson, Norm, Matt D, Price Club, and the other damn Canadians again. Wish Sorta could have gotten out there, but that didn't stop it from being a good event. Once again big thanks to Matt for putting on such a good regatta in trying conditions.

 

Dad made a few more mods to Kaito including moving the forestay down the mast a little which seems to have really helped. Still can't point for shit but feeling pretty fast otherwise as long as the water is flat. Really want to build a new boat but the fact that I was winning each race in Alabama every time the boat broke is stalling me. However might be best for the fleet to move the boat and get someone else a new ride.

 

This is my first post on this site in a long time. I've sort of been caught up elsewhere, and while I'm still sailing, the Canoe has not been in the front of my mind lately and I've been neglecting my duties as newsletter editor. However that is about to change. Next issue should be out soon. Anyone with anything for the newsletter, build stories, regatta reports, anything, please send me your stuff. I'm about to start putting a new one together.

 

Would like to get a lot of people to Sugar this year. That's always where our best racing seems to happen, though we may be without Tommy this year so I'm unsure how we can possibly hope to survive.

 

Hope everyone is well. Like I said I've been out of the loop for a while but worlds are on the way. Time to ramp it up.

 

Willy

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Please keep us informed, as a newbie, really enjoyed reading the newsletter for info, and would love to sail a new design someday.

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Sugar Island Annual Encampment is fast approaching. Thus far we have 5 boats on board. Me, Dave, Eli, John and Bill are all planning on making the trek. Wondering who else is interested.

 

Dates:

Sunday, July 22nd, - Around the Island Race

Monday, July 23rd, - Butler Trophy, 1st Race of Championship Series

Tuesday, July 24th, - Crane Trophy, 2nd Race of Championship Series

Wednesday, July 25th, - Mermaid Trophy, 3rd race of Championship Series

Thursday, Lay Day

Friday, July 26th, - 3 race mini-series.

 

This year will also be the first year of the in which Steve Lysak Trophy for the winer of the "Hangover" Series will be awarded. Hope to see people there.

 

Best,

Willy

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Sugar Island Annual Encampment is fast approaching. Thus far we have 5 boats on board. Me, Dave, Eli, John and Bill are all planning on making the trek. Wondering who else is interested.

 

Dates:

Sunday, July 22nd, - Around the Island Race

Monday, July 23rd, - Butler Trophy, 1st Race of Championship Series

Tuesday, July 24th, - Crane Trophy, 2nd Race of Championship Series

Wednesday, July 25th, - Mermaid Trophy, 3rd race of Championship Series

Thursday, Lay Day

Friday, July 26th, - 3 race mini-series.

 

This year will also be the first year of the in which Steve Lysak Trophy for the winer of the "Hangover" Series will be awarded. Hope to see people there.

 

Best,

Willy

 

I am trying to encourage El Crapitano to launch his new ride in the crystal clear waters of the St. Lawrence....

Even if he has to finish it after he arrives. I promised the support of the island natives is getting his boat finished.

 

JK

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That'd be perfect. No better place to have your first sail.

 

Sugar Island Annual Encampment is fast approaching. Thus far we have 5 boats on board. Me, Dave, Eli, John and Bill are all planning on making the trek. Wondering who else is interested.

 

Dates:

Sunday, July 22nd, - Around the Island Race

Monday, July 23rd, - Butler Trophy, 1st Race of Championship Series

Tuesday, July 24th, - Crane Trophy, 2nd Race of Championship Series

Wednesday, July 25th, - Mermaid Trophy, 3rd race of Championship Series

Thursday, Lay Day

Friday, July 26th, - 3 race mini-series.

 

This year will also be the first year of the in which Steve Lysak Trophy for the winer of the "Hangover" Series will be awarded. Hope to see people there.

 

Best,

Willy

 

I am trying to encourage El Crapitano to launch his new ride in the crystal clear waters of the St. Lawrence....

Even if he has to finish it after he arrives. I promised the support of the island natives is getting his boat finished.

 

JK

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I am trying to encourage El Crapitano to launch his new ride in the crystal clear waters of the St. Lawrence....

Even if he has to finish it after he arrives. I promised the support of the island natives is getting his boat finished.

 

JK

 

I hope to make it, but it won't be easy. Some parts have to be finished before I hit the road - like the roof rack, rudder cassette and tiller extension. Meanwhile, another batch of questions:

 

1. If anyone with a stock Kinder jib could measure the batten lengths, that would be really helpful. Somehow I have misplaced my jib battens, but not my main battens.

2. I have not one, but two, 1/4" drain holes. Easy to install, cheap and I have 100 spare plugs for $5. I tried to leak check my hull yesterday using vacuum pressure and sudsy water. I thought I was in my element from lots of experience finding leaks in bike tires. Anyway, the only leak I found was the unpressurized drain hole. It produced a solid bubble but it is a gaping hole. Has anyone else with small drain holes successfully leak checked?

3. Any tips for rolltipping a garage paint job? I have all the Awlgrip products and the Awlgrip directions.

4. Should I use foam non-skid on the outside of the gunwhales or salt in the paint? I have foam, and lots of it, on the dance floor. Padding seems like a good idea.

5. Do I put limber holes in my carriage rails?

6. I broke a tap after the deck went on and the tip rattles around in the hull. I guess I need to drill a hole and pull it out with a magnet on a string. Any better ideas?

 

Thanks

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Sugar island is great but it is no place to go for a maiden sail. Trust me on this.

 

Salt works well.

 

My advice on awlgrip would be do the prep and pay someone to shoot it. Or roll test panels until you are happy. Or just prime it and declare victory for now.

 

Big limber holes are the ticket when it comes to getting random items out of the hull (and not getting plugged up).

 

I have only built one hull so I may not know what I am on about.

 

Congrats on nearly being there.

 

Karl

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BE CAREFUL...

 

I almost turned a laser into a beachball by pressurizing it using a vacuum cleaner. I was totally unprepared for how destructive that little test was.

 

:)

 

l

 

 

I am trying to encourage El Crapitano to launch his new ride in the crystal clear waters of the St. Lawrence....

Even if he has to finish it after he arrives. I promised the support of the island natives is getting his boat finished.

 

JK

 

I hope to make it, but it won't be easy. Some parts have to be finished before I hit the road - like the roof rack, rudder cassette and tiller extension. Meanwhile, another batch of questions:

 

1. If anyone with a stock Kinder jib could measure the batten lengths, that would be really helpful. Somehow I have misplaced my jib battens, but not my main battens.

2. I have not one, but two, 1/4" drain holes. Easy to install, cheap and I have 100 spare plugs for $5. I tried to leak check my hull yesterday using vacuum pressure and sudsy water. I thought I was in my element from lots of experience finding leaks in bike tires. Anyway, the only leak I found was the unpressurized drain hole. It produced a solid bubble but it is a gaping hole. Has anyone else with small drain holes successfully leak checked?

3. Any tips for rolltipping a garage paint job? I have all the Awlgrip products and the Awlgrip directions.

4. Should I use foam non-skid on the outside of the gunwhales or salt in the paint? I have foam, and lots of it, on the dance floor. Padding seems like a good idea.

5. Do I put limber holes in my carriage rails?

6. I broke a tap after the deck went on and the tip rattles around in the hull. I guess I need to drill a hole and pull it out with a magnet on a string. Any better ideas?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

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Test your leakage first with a 1/4in plastic hose presurised with your mouth. Seal up the drains with BluTac or some other goey stuff which cleans off easilly. If you can not get back pressure by mouth you have a serious leak and are then safe to use some mechanical means. Too much pressure will destroy the boat, loosen all the bulkheads and potentially crack some pannels or joints, avoid. A Vacuum cleaner on blow mode is safer than a compressor. You can tape you 1/4in plastic to the vac hose end. A bucket of soapy water and a big sloppy plastic sponge will soon find the bubbles. Once you glue up the big ones go back to the mouth method to find the little annoying ones.

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I've used a vacuum cleaner on "blow" mode without a problem. I use some rags to seal the inspection hatch its usually enough to find the leaks without it building up so much pressure it causes damage.

 

ICU2

 

 

 

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Mouth is good I think 20 lungfuls is the go. Either bang the bung back in v quick, or vacuum tacky tape is good.

If the indignity of appearing to be giving your boat a rim job in a public place is too great, I've found using a kite pump pretty good, nozzle tacky taped in place (regarding indignity - I am not a kiter, I borrowed the pump)

Anyhow, on a return pump (pumps on both strokes) 3 strokes ( 2 down one up) seemed about right on an i14.

4 strokes and she started groaning and creaking in protest.

Dan

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Best system i've seen for pressurizing a hull for leak testing is a balloon blown up and fitted to a tube in the bung hole. More than enough pressure, a built in reservoir and no risk of too much pressure.

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I am trying to encourage El Crapitano to launch his new ride in the crystal clear waters of the St. Lawrence....

Even if he has to finish it after he arrives. I promised the support of the island natives is getting his boat finished.

 

JK

 

I hope to make it, but it won't be easy. Some parts have to be finished before I hit the road - like the roof rack, rudder cassette and tiller extension. Meanwhile, another batch of questions:

 

1. If anyone with a stock Kinder jib could measure the batten lengths, that would be really helpful. Somehow I have misplaced my jib battens, but not my main battens.

2. I have not one, but two, 1/4" drain holes. Easy to install, cheap and I have 100 spare plugs for $5. I tried to leak check my hull yesterday using vacuum pressure and sudsy water. I thought I was in my element from lots of experience finding leaks in bike tires. Anyway, the only leak I found was the unpressurized drain hole. It produced a solid bubble but it is a gaping hole. Has anyone else with small drain holes successfully leak checked?

3. Any tips for rolltipping a garage paint job? I have all the Awlgrip products and the Awlgrip directions.

4. Should I use foam non-skid on the outside of the gunwhales or salt in the paint? I have foam, and lots of it, on the dance floor. Padding seems like a good idea.

5. Do I put limber holes in my carriage rails?

6. I broke a tap after the deck went on and the tip rattles around in the hull. I guess I need to drill a hole and pull it out with a magnet on a string. Any better ideas?

 

Thanks

 

El Crap,

 

I used AWLGRIP on my first AC and I have to say it gives a brilliant finish and is as hard as nails. I rolled it and then tipped it with a fine foam brush and the finish was excellent. Biggest issue is making sure there is no dust so a good clean of the area your working in before hand is essential and also using tacky rags on the surface picks up any residual bits. Roll out well and then let is settle for a few minutes where the air bubbles rise to the surface and then run your foam brush lightly over the surface.

 

There is a few issues with the acrylic AWLGRIP however which I only discovered later;

 

1. It is only intended for above water use. This is fine but if you leave your boat with its undercover on for any length of time and it stays wet, the water can get under the paint and blister especially where the boat rests on the trailer .

2. You can't rub it down as the colour rises through the surface and sits under the final finish. Anything more than a light polish dulls the surface and you can't get it back to the ultra gloss. This doesn't seem to apply to the clear gloss which is brilliant stuff.

3. The fumes are nasty. Make sure you use a good quality mask with charcoal filter. If you breath the fumes for more than a few minutes you will be a sick as a dog - done that, not nice.

 

Steve C (UK)

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El Crap,

 

I used AWLGRIP on my first AC and I have to say it gives a brilliant finish and is as hard as nails. I rolled it and then tipped it with a fine foam brush and the finish was excellent. Biggest issue is making sure there is no dust so a good clean of the area your working in before hand is essential and also using tacky rags on the surface picks up any residual bits. Roll out well and then let is settle for a few minutes where the air bubbles rise to the surface and then run your foam brush lightly over the surface.

 

There is a few issues with the acrylic AWLGRIP however which I only discovered later;

 

1. It is only intended for above water use. This is fine but if you leave your boat with its undercover on for any length of time and it stays wet, the water can get under the paint and blister especially where the boat rests on the trailer .

2. You can't rub it down as the colour rises through the surface and sits under the final finish. Anything more than a light polish dulls the surface and you can't get it back to the ultra gloss. This doesn't seem to apply to the clear gloss which is brilliant stuff.

3. The fumes are nasty. Make sure you use a good quality mask with charcoal filter. If you breath the fumes for more than a few minutes you will be a sick as a dog - done that, not nice.

 

Steve C (UK)

 

Thanks for the response AngloSteveClark.

 

I should be ok on count #1. I'm leaving below the waterline bare primer. The paint is for topsides and cockpit. I have no undercover at this point. The boat will live in my garage and basement, protected from sun and the elements.

 

My garage is relatively dust free and will not be used for cars for the duration of the paint process, including drying. My central vacuum has an port in the garage so I can vacuum without putting dust into the air. Temperature is a concern though. Forecast says 95F tomorrow (did I move to Oz?) which is above Awlgrips' maximum application temperature. The garage will invariably be hotter than the outside.

 

Yesterday's dumb thing I did was to epoxy the rudder and cassette together. The epoxy was in green state when I tested the steering and then began a frantic forensic investigation. All is well now, no damaged parts and the rudder stock turns smoothly now. I'm getting too much practice unbonding parts. When I attached the bearings to the rudder stock I bonded the alignment tool that Chris provided to the bearings even though the tool explicitly said do not bond to the bearings in bold letters. Sometimes I think Homer Simpson follows directions better than me.

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Hey El.

fFrom your posted pix I seem to recall you are using the imbeded square carbon tube with some sort of roller/slider on the carridge. I haven't seen anyone drill thru the rail, most all the Super String Theory canoes I've seen just let the water flow out the open aft end. However you will need a stop to prevent the thing from running off the rails and or jamming the tiller!

 

I am trying to encourage El Crapitano to launch his new ride in the crystal clear waters of the St. Lawrence....

Even if he has to finish it after he arrives. I promised the support of the island natives is getting his boat finished.

 

JK

 

I hope to make it, but it won't be easy. Some parts have to be finished before I hit the road - like the roof rack, rudder cassette and tiller extension. Meanwhile, another batch of questions:

 

1. If anyone with a stock Kinder jib could measure the batten lengths, that would be really helpful. Somehow I have misplaced my jib battens, but not my main battens.

2. I have not one, but two, 1/4" drain holes. Easy to install, cheap and I have 100 spare plugs for $5. I tried to leak check my hull yesterday using vacuum pressure and sudsy water. I thought I was in my element from lots of experience finding leaks in bike tires. Anyway, the only leak I found was the unpressurized drain hole. It produced a solid bubble but it is a gaping hole. Has anyone else with small drain holes successfully leak checked?

3. Any tips for rolltipping a garage paint job? I have all the Awlgrip products and the Awlgrip directions.

4. Should I use foam non-skid on the outside of the gunwhales or salt in the paint? I have foam, and lots of it, on the dance floor. Padding seems like a good idea.

5. Do I put limber holes in my carriage rails?

6. I broke a tap after the deck went on and the tip rattles around in the hull. I guess I need to drill a hole and pull it out with a magnet on a string. Any better ideas?

 

Thanks

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Hey El.

fFrom your posted pix I seem to recall you are using the imbeded square carbon tube with some sort of roller/slider on the carridge. I haven't seen anyone drill thru the rail, most all the Super String Theory canoes I've seen just let the water flow out the open aft end. However you will need a stop to prevent the thing from running off the rails and or jamming the tiller!

 

I do have the square carbon tubes, and use sliders on the carriage. The stops I fabricated seal the aft end of the tubes. I can fix that, but holes in the tubes may be more effective. I knew that I didn't want the carriage to slide off the back of the boat, but hadn't considered jamming the tiller, hmm. It may not be a problem but I better check.

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One solution is to fit a piece of 1/4" G-10 to the inside of the tube track with another shaped piece on the top. Drill a clearance hole in the top , tap the bottom/inside piece and use a RH machine screw as a clamp-stop through the slot . Works everytime I've done it. It opens up the track so the H20 flows out .

Also it you plan to sail withour a wetsuit, at least some of the time, I'd put the foam on the gunwale .

Yea, you have to replace it every 2 or 3 years but it's less painful than growing skin.

Cheers]

Hey El.

fFrom your posted pix I seem to recall you are using the imbeded square carbon tube with some sort of roller/slider on the carridge. I haven't seen anyone drill thru the rail, most all the Super String Theory canoes I've seen just let the water flow out the open aft end. However you will need a stop to prevent the thing from running off the rails and or jamming the tiller!

 

I do have the square carbon tubes, and use sliders on the carriage. The stops I fabricated seal the aft end of the tubes. I can fix that, but holes in the tubes may be more effective. I knew that I didn't want the carriage to slide off the back of the boat, but hadn't considered jamming the tiller, hmm. It may not be a problem but I better check.

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