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unfix8r

Flying Dutchman rebuild/ remodel questions and answers

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Hello all. Great thread! Have been looking for a wood boat to restore for a while. Something that will not only look great but be fun to sail. Was lucky enough to find an FD in need of some help here in Virginia, sail number 1231. Have been to the FD website, but other than a build year of 1968, I haven't been able to find any other info. I will post a pic or two once I figure out how. Will also have a site to track the progress with more pics.

 

Definitely...do! Can't wait to see what you've got and what it'll look like when you're finished. It's also a tradition to tell a first time poster: Fuck off, noob. Now you are properly initiated.

 

You forgot the second part, we need a boob-shot.

 

Otherwise keep us appraised of your progress, I absolutely love watching these restoration threads...

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Thanks for the welcome.......and initiation. Here are a some pics before cleaning her off.

 

Reht, I will work on the other pics.

 

Personally, I'm happy with boat pics and she looks like a little clean up could make a real beauty...

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Thanks for the welcome.......and initiation. Here are a some pics before cleaning her off.

 

Reht, I will work on the other pics.

 

Nice. Let me know if you find out the builder, it looks really like my one (which I don't know the origins of either...)

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Thomas:

We have had better luck using Kevlar on the back side of plywood.

It is lighter and has better tensile strength. So a win.

It is a pain otherwise.

On the bare hull, I would inspect the veneer carefully to see if it has checked ( little splits along the grain)at all.

This is pretty common for cold molded hulls after a number of years.

The best solution if this has happened is a careful sanding to clear away whatever finish is on the wood, a good suck and blow to clean out the splits followed by a coating with WEST or equivalent high quality woodworking epoxy. I often use a very light glass ( less than 120 G/m^2) on these hulls to give the outer vneer a bit more help. You want to make sure that the hull is as fair as you ever hope it to be before glassing, because the glass has fundamentally no thickness and sanding a bump out will cut all the fibers and thus render the operation pointless.

 

How you finish this hull depends on what you want as a finished product. If you want the final word in wood FD building, contact Andrew Boyd from Saehorse Magazine. He has spent years restoring Rodney Pattison's Supercalifragilisticexealidious.

SHC

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Big bump to an old thread:

 

I sold the Wounded Moose I to Todd Ueker in Port Townsend... he's a boatbuilder and will take her the next step back to pristine-ness. Sad day for me... wish I had the shop to bring her back to her old greatness. Even more so since Bob Hoare passed away, and apparently did so while, of all things winning a sailboat race.

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Big bump to an old thread:

 

I sold the Wounded Moose I to Todd Ueker in Port Townsend... he's a boatbuilder and will take her the next step back to pristine-ness. Sad day for me... wish I had the shop to bring her back to her old greatness. Even more so since Bob Hoare passed away, and apparently did so while, of all things winning a sailboat race.

 

RIP Bob,

 

Here is a piece of Bob's death I found on the Flying Fifteen page;

 

 

Bob Hoare – a Loss of One of My Childhood Heroes…..

Posted on September 9, 2012

It is with great sadness that Parkstone Flying Fifteens have to report that Bob Hoare collapsed and died when in the lead during our Friday evening Club race at Parkstone on 7 September.

Bob had been sailing in the Parkstone Flying Fifteen fleet since its inception. He has been a major figure in the dinghy racing world both as a boatbuilder and as a competitor. He built Olympic Gold winning Flying Dutchmen and championship winning Merlin Rockets. Bob first sailed a Merlin in 1953, was Merlin National Champion in 1960 and also had successes at international level in Flying Dutchmen.

In recent years he has competed regularly in our Club races with his wife, Tessa. He has always been a competitive and canny sailor and he was a force to be reckoned with to the last.

Our condolences go to Tessa and to their family. Bob will be much missed.

 

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I haven't seen to many boats out there without continuous trapeze gear, Ieven did part of a season on a boat with no floor. But each to their own, I'm still not sure if the continuous system is faster it just seems that nearly all the FDs have that setup.

As for the pink ropes. My stag do started with a wednesday beer can race, so when the call was made for the pink spinnaker there were a few Questioning looks, untill the realisation hit. Pink is fast

 

I dont know what "stag do" means, but Im going along with the last thing.

2620042185_dc0c7b7d38.jpg

this guy had never been in an FD before, bought my old boat, sailing in his third FD regatta, ahead of me in every race, and nipping the heels of the top of the fleet. the only thing he added to that boat is the pink spinnaker.

 

 

Dude;

 

Now I own that spinnaker!! Woo Hoo!

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Now i know where to ask questions when i start on my FD project.I have a 1968 Binks.Fibreglass hull,timber everything else with Hawker DeHaviland spars.It's upside down as i type having the many dings in the gell coat repaired.Most of the decking has been removed.ALL the cockpit floor ply has delaminated,meaning a complete strip out.YES! I will start posting pics as soon as i am able,,,lol

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Helliconia,

 

Nats are down at Paynesville over Easter this year. There is a Victorian boat that needs crew if you want to sail, otherwise come down and say G'day to the rest of the fleet. Send me you a pm with your email if you're interested.

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Bumping this wonderful thread again ;)

2 days ago I've bought and older (late 70s-80s) racing FD hull with alu mast in mint condition (not sure who made the hull, couldnt find any builders plate or anything, just a laminated sticker of IFDCO builders permit with number, though don't know if that could help at indentifying the boat at all, and came with mainsail numbered DDR-124 -yay gogo east germany- though have no idea if its original sail). I've sailed wooden FD before, though with veeeery simple rigging compared to the new boat (mast couldn't be raked at all, no provisions for spinnaker whatsoever, sailed mainly in light winds for leisure).

 

After a lot of reading here and there (mainly here in this thread here, kudos to you gentlemen), I was able to indentify most of the rigging on the new boat, though i have question if there's something missing in the rigging of my boat. Yesterday in the evening I tried to raise the mast, though I've encountered a problem. I know the shrouds go under the deck, connected to magic box, for fine length adjustment when raking.

 

Nevertheless, the ultimate question is about the forestay. I know it should go under the deck fore of the genoa fitting point, however I'm not sure where to fit the end of the forestay - I assume there must some kind of adjustable magic under the deck, because of the varying forestay length when raking the mast. Nevertheless, there are the genoa furling control lines only, and two shock cords under the front deck not connected to anything (reason of their existence is still mystery to me).

 

So finally THE question - is it possible that the forestay is connected to the one or both the shock cords? Since most of the mast load is taken by the genoa halyard, when the genoa is up, and i guess the shock cord can support the mast when the genoa is not fitted (like on trailer, or when raising the mast), and the shock cord keeps the forestay tight even when raking, eliminating the need for some complex adjustment system. Unfortunately, there is no similar boat in reasonable distance I could compare the rigging to, and the owner just inherited the boat with no knowledge of rigging on it at all.

 

Sorry for not so good English (I'm from Czech Republic), and I'll post some photos when the weather gets better :)

 

Thank you very much for your replies

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the "forestay" is only there to keep the mast upright while the genoa is not there. it does not take any kind of load during actual sailing and yes it should be attached to shock cords under deck to keep it tight.

 

for identifying the hull it would be nice to have some pics (my boat is a 78 Mader - Germany)

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the "forestay" is only there to keep the mast upright while the genoa is not there. it does not take any kind of load during actual sailing and yes it should be attached to shock cords under deck to keep it tight.

 

for identifying the hull it would be nice to have some pics (my boat is a 78 Mader - Germany)

Thanks for swift reply, I'll make some photos of when the weather gets better :)

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the "forestay" is only there to keep the mast upright while the genoa is not there. it does not take any kind of load during actual sailing and yes it should be attached to shock cords under deck to keep it tight.

 

for identifying the hull it would be nice to have some pics (my boat is a 78 Mader - Germany)

Thanks for swift reply, I'll make some photos of when the weather gets better :)

From the current Meteo... that means... August???

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Hey there;

 

I started this dinosaur thread all those years and Fd's ago. The forestay does need to hold up the mast in a heavy blow should the genoa fail for any reason. ... the bungee and the wire were most likely both attached to the forestay.... the wire to hold the actual load, the bungee to take up the slack. I have a picture of this arrangement on the fdbulletin.org forum under the USA section... you should look there, and post your pictures there, too.

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My vote is Leonard Mader Boatworks... contact the FD International site... with the builder's number they can tell you exactly the year built and the maker.

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So i have a repair/ remodel question:

 

The openings on my genoa sheet were too damned small; we couldn't "cowboy flip" the gennie sheet out of the blocks. So I cut through the Nomex, and made it all the way open to the floor. To support the front, I epoxied in (don't laugh) a section of old wood tennis raquet in , and then built up above that with System 3 Sculpwood. I am going to cover the whole thing with Tap plastics epoxy and carbon cloth; I was wondering: Has anyone out there used Sculpwood for coring material? It seemed ideal: it's light, it's waterproof, it's semi sticky, it's easily moldable and sandable, it just doesn't seem all that structural. I figure the epoxy/ cloth is where the strength is, right? The coring material doesn't matter all that much in the whole strength equation, right?

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I could hear it over here, too. I was building a jig to lay up some carbon laminate, and then out of th corner of my eye I saw the pieces I needed right in the garage. I thin he'd appreciate that it was theChris vert model raquet,... I looked the the job thus far and it's looking pretty good. The opening is finally where it needs to be: three inches lower in the boat.

 

The scuplwood makes for an ideal substrate for building over: waterproof, light, moldable/ sandable. The laminate pieces ofwood already take much of the load, so it's going to be stronger afterwards than it was. I'll paintit up afterward,and you'll neverknow there was everanything else there. Not being able to release the genoa in an FD is what the crew calls a "major problem". Will post up some pictures.

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Yeah, I was a little horrified when I thought about it initially, but then I thought: it's thin kerf bent laminated ash, with holes throughout, and it's not under a huge load. So I used it. The glass cloth will cover it all, anyway, but it will add a significant amount of strength to the work.

 

There's centerboard work to do, as well... what should I do with that old truck tire....... hmm.......

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