Hike, Bitches!

HB's 'new' boat thread

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No. not compared to the fucking teak. The biggest problem is the P.O. power washed the deck every season. He blew away all the soft teak, and most of the gelcoat. Regardless, I gotta do something - and replacing it with "not-teak" seems to be the way to go.

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No. not compared to the fucking teak. The biggest problem is the P.O. power washed the deck every season. He blew away all the soft teak, and most of the gelcoat. Regardless, I gotta do something - and replacing it with "not-teak" seems to be the way to go.

 

+1 on the Plasteak/Noteak/G10...or something you can fabricate or purchase prefabricated and modify to fit. The Catalina 34 forum had some folks discuss their use of the replacement hand rails. Seemed very happy. The current GoodOldBoat issue has an article on a boat that has the decks done in the stuff and it looks good in that application. Not having wood to maintain adds sailing days to your life.

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Cherie...thanks for that info..I'll check out the Cat34 stuff. My next step is to get rid of the teak hand rails on the cabin house and move to some sort of 100"-ish long stainless (maybe two 48" long pieces) :unsure: - PVC board is proving to be acceptable so far for the hatch boards. They are made out of that and working well. I need to pull out the table saw again and mill some more PVC board for other outside teak areas I am trying to get rid of.

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holy crap. Sep 30? Jesus. :rolleyes:

 

OK..well..here's an update. went sailing on Dec 31, 2011. Weather was awesome.

 

Somewhere in this thread, there was discussion about removing the busted screws & trim for the companionway, & the fact that the trim was so thin that I was grinding down pointy ends of screws on the external side of the trim. Well..I just fuckin' ripped it all out on Thursday. I am going to replace them with PVC board, same stuff I made the companionway boards out of and as I have done with any other piece of teak I've ripped off the boat. (Notice the sliding main hatch with SS hand rail & PVC board). Right now, the boards are duct taped in to keep the rain out. :rolleyes:

 

I am also re-wiring the engine harness and building a new gauge 'pod' in the cockpit..you can see the black Gorilla duct tape closing up the hole in the pic taken from inside the boat. It will all be tinned copper & ABYC compliant with help from genuinedealz.com. I might have some pics of that floating around..I'll see if I can find them.

 

Oh, I am also replacing my 1977 lifelines with 1/4" spectra..I have acquired the Brion Toss Book #5 and his splicing wand..that has been my lunch time & bedside reading...

 

One of my other tasks is to get the A4 converted to fresh water cooling. I have most of the parts for that..just a few more to acquire, like a Johnson CM30 12v DC pump to circulate the antifreeze. I'll let the Oberdorfer continue to circulate the raw water thru the heat exchanger.

 

Busy...busy..busy.

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Yabbut, it's almost sailing times!!! Don't get too deep into projects!

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Oh, I am also replacing my 1977 lifelines with 1/4" spectra..I have acquired the Brion Toss Book #5 and his splicing wand..that has been my lunch time & bedside reading...

Glad to see another convert. You won't regret it. It's really easy to splice and check for wear, no reason to stick with wire unless there is a chafe problem somewhere.

 

I used alumnum channel stock for the hatch boards, home depot special. So far no corrosion, just glued them in with 4200. I didn't like the PVC stuff b/c its usually pretty thick.

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Yabbut, it's almost sailing times!!! Don't get too deep into projects!

 

 

Now you tell me!

 

Bottom gets starch blasted next week. New inverter/charger going in but it'll be a few weeks until the yard can do it and I don't have the time. New house bank went in this morning (4 X Trojan T-145+ GC for 520 AH at 12V). Still have to make up some custom cables to series/parallel them as I took out 2 X 4D's. I'm hoping to be in the water by 1 May. Hopefully, it'll be ready to go in time for greeting Matt and providing a few miles of escort as he comes up the Bay. Pulling the powerboat out of the shed tomorrow so C can get started cleaning and waxing. Maybe launch it next weekend. DST will hopefully give me some project time after work now.

 

This afternoon was lime and fertilize followed by a BBQ tonight for 10 teenagers. Amazing how much they can eat.

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Update time.

 

I know, i know..there is lots more going on than this..Here is what I have tonight.

 

Ajax has inspired me with his splicing techniques, so thru birthdays, Christmas, etc, I've acquired Brion Toss' book & one of his splicing wands.

 

First test is to splice loops into the jib sheets and build myself a soft shackle. Since I know where to find Merit25 now close by, I can tap him for the intricacies of the soft shackle details..in the meantime, I am teaching myself conventional double braid splices which will attach to said soft shackle.

 

Not perfect, but not too bad either...these are two year old sheets, and I hear it it easier to splice new line. That will be sweet!

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Thanks, boom :wub:

 

Mrs. HB says hello...she is watching our duel on the high seas from afar! I almost had you into Brazil, but I sailed off into a cove for a bit prior to Itajai. :rolleyes:

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Update time.

 

I know, i know..there is lots more going on than this..Here is what I have tonight.

 

Ajax has inspired me with his splicing techniques, so thru birthdays, Christmas, etc, I've acquired Brion Toss' book & one of his splicing wands.

 

First test is to splice loops into the jib sheets and build myself a soft shackle. Since I know where to find Merit25 now close by, I can tap him for the intricacies of the soft shackle details..in the meantime, I am teaching myself conventional double braid splices which will attach to said soft shackle.

 

Not perfect, but not too bad either...these are two year old sheets, and I hear it it easier to splice new line. That will be sweet!

 

Those look good. Yes, new line is much easier than any line that has been loaded up.

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Ajax, I purchased some new spin sheets this spring too. They are brand new and all coiled up and waiting for me to splice them. I have snap shackles all ready to go. B)

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Holy crap..these Brion Toss double-braid splices suck...If you do them right they are beautiful, so they only suck for us amateurs. I am attempting my first new-rope-with-a-snap-shackle-in-the-eye-splice, which will be my new port side spinnaker sheet. I am at step 18...this is where you have to start 'snapping' the rope...too late for that tonight. <_<

 

Don't bitch at me about the core bunching up...that is my best one yet! :rolleyes:

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That'll milk right up! :). Got blisters yet?

I use the Samson splice guide...I found it easy to understand.

Kk

 

Holy crap..these Brion Toss double-braid splices suck...If you do them right they are beautiful, so they only suck for us amateurs. I am attempting my first new-rope-with-a-snap-shackle-in-the-eye-splice, which will be my new port side spinnaker sheet. I am at step 18...this is where you have to start 'snapping' the rope...too late for that tonight. <_<

 

Don't bitch at me about the core bunching up...that is my best one yet! :rolleyes:

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KK is right. You should be able to milk that up when snapping it. Splicing is definitely a dark art. I've already forgotten how to do it since I don't do it every week. :rolleyes:

 

I really need a new set of sheets that I can splice for soft shackles. Tying bowlines is for the birds.

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Every time I do a splice I have to get the instructions out again, the retention time is too long.

 

And then my wife wonders why I'm tying rope to a radiator (big cast iron thing in the hallway) and hauling on the rope while wearing dish washing gloves... To date it's my best method of getting the core back inside.

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Every time I do a splice I have to get the instructions out again, the retention time is too long.

 

And then my wife wonders why I'm tying rope to a radiator (big cast iron thing in the hallway) and hauling on the rope while wearing dish washing gloves... To date it's my best method of getting the core back inside.

 

Best trick for burying splices I heard was to use your two primary winches for it, one to tie to and one to haul with.

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Every time I do a splice I have to get the instructions out again, the retention time is too long.

 

And then my wife wonders why I'm tying rope to a radiator (big cast iron thing in the hallway) and hauling on the rope while wearing dish washing gloves... To date it's my best method of getting the core back inside.

 

Best trick for burying splices I heard was to use your two primary winches for it, one to tie to and one to haul with.

 

Last time I spliced 5/8" moooring lines, I used two cars with trailer hitches.

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Ish & IB, great ideas....Mrs. Bitches yelled at me the other day when I tied the end to the workbench & started snapping and she came out and said, "Hey, Bitch!!!! you are knocking shit out of the cabinets in here!" (workbench in the garage is lag bolted into the same studs as the kitchen cabinets..) OOoops...:rolleyes:

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Ish & IB, great ideas....Mrs. Bitches yelled at me the other day when I tied the end to the workbench & started snapping and she came out and said, "Hey, Bitch!!!! you are knocking shit out of the cabinets in here!" (workbench in the garage is lag bolted into the same studs as the kitchen cabinets..) OOoops...:rolleyes:

 

 

I have this image of you and the Mrs. calling each other out- I trust it ends well. Growing up my parents had friends I called Uncle Creep and Aunt Pigwoman- you can gather what they called each other.

 

 

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I am attempting my first new-rope-with-a-snap-shackle-in-the-eye-splice, which will be my new port side spinnaker sheet.

Hey, at least you remembered to put the shackle in. I did a great tight splice for Ajax and forgot the shackle on his spin halyard. :angry:

 

I am at step 18...this is where you .... <_<

I'm sorry did you say "step 18"? I would never try splicing if there were that many steps, I just don't have the attention for... What was it?

Go for Samson or NER. There's like 6-8 steps.

 

Don't bitch at me about the core bunching up...that is my best one yet! :rolleyes:

By far this is the hardest part. All the other steps takes 15 minutes or less. This part can take an hour or more. And sometimes, I've left it over night to come back later. You can try soaking the rope in a little soapy water. But you'll need rubber gloves to grip the line after that. Then just rinse the line when you're done.

 

When pulling on the line, use a fid or spike through the loop to put tension on the core. This makes it skinny and will loosen up the cover a bit. Also, try pulling on the loop that has the cover on it. This part is hard to explain.

 

If you're milking the cover over the splice and it binds up, pull on the side of the spliced loop that has the cover. Don't keep stacking up cover. Milk a little, then pull the cover over the splice using part of the loop you made. This helped me splice very used and abused rope. Unfortunately, I've damaged the bed post, 2 door nobs, the ilsand in the kitchen, some trim work in the appartment, bent a 1/2" metal fid, stabbed myself with lots of needles, and have scared the neighborhood kids with colorful language while trying to splice. So maybe having a rigging shop do it isn't a bad idea either. Class I is easy, just wait until you start doing class II. B)

 

Also, for spin sheets, I have 1/8" dyneem on the ends and luggage tag a shackle to it. For light air round the cans stuff, I take the shackles off and use a soft shackle. Gets the weight of the shackle off the clew.

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If you're milking the cover over the splice and it binds up, pull on the side of the spliced loop that has the cover. Don't keep stacking up cover. Milk a little, then pull the cover over the splice using part of the loop you made. This helped me splice very used and abused rope. Unfortunately, I've damaged the bed post, 2 door nobs, the ilsand in the kitchen, some trim work in the appartment, bent a 1/2" metal fid, stabbed myself with lots of needles, and have scared the neighborhood kids with colorful language while trying to splice. So maybe having a rigging shop do it isn't a bad idea either. Class I is easy, just wait until you start doing class II. B)

 

 

Gold.

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merit, thanks for those tips, that all makes sense & helps a lot..this spice has 23 steps, but Brion Toss explains his shit in great detail.

 

Someone else suggested a luggage tag loop in case I ever wanted to change/remove shackles..I don't ever expect to have issues with the spin gear on this boat wearing out, we use it two or three times a year. :rolleyes:

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OK, bitches...check it. I found a new anchor point which was quite effective. Milked that bitch right in with almost no trouble. I didn't have anything small enough to get into the eye, so I tied one of my test pieces to the eye.

 

Merit25, you are right on the "sometimes I leave it 'til tomorrow." You just gotta come back to it later. On to the stbd side.

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Right on. Satisfying, isn't it?

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Ahhhhhh, file lookin schplice that is! Knew that would milk right up. :D

Nice technique.

 

OK, bitches...check it. I found a new anchor point which was quite effective. Milked that bitch right in with almost no trouble. I didn't have anything small enough to get into the eye, so I tied one of my test pieces to the eye.

 

Merit25, you are right on the "sometimes I leave it 'til tomorrow." You just gotta come back to it later. On to the stbd side.

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Kaptain Krazy...notice the West System pumps in the backround!??!?!?!? B)

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That and madamme B's flower pots. :)

 

Kaptain Krazy...notice the West System pumps in the backround!??!?!?!? B)

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Stick, is that a Pearson 30?

 

 

 

Wohoo! It's coming together HB. You're going to have a sweet boat when you're done.

 

I put water to mine this weekend (actually still antifreeze-we still have freezing ahead). No leaks so far! I got her up to temp and changed the oil a couple of times.

 

Today I started cleaning up the fallout from the project. I'm not exactly a meticulous worker.

 

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Stick, is that a Pearson 30?

 

 

 

Wohoo! It's coming together HB. You're going to have a sweet boat when you're done.

 

I put water to mine this weekend (actually still antifreeze-we still have freezing ahead). No leaks so far! I got her up to temp and changed the oil a couple of times.

 

Today I started cleaning up the fallout from the project. I'm not exactly a meticulous worker.

 

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:lol: :lol: :lol: If you can pick that out as P30 in that shot you must know them well!

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HB, dipping my toes into the CA pond..... just read your entire thread.....glad I didn't read it before pulling the trigger on buying this a couple weeks ago.....1970 Morgan 30......I reckon ya might have scared me off :P

 

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Stick, is that a Pearson 30?

 

 

 

Wohoo! It's coming together HB. You're going to have a sweet boat when you're done.

 

I put water to mine this weekend (actually still antifreeze-we still have freezing ahead). No leaks so far! I got her up to temp and changed the oil a couple of times.

 

Today I started cleaning up the fallout from the project. I'm not exactly a meticulous worker.

 

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:lol: :lol: :lol: If you can pick that out as P30 in that shot you must know them well!

 

 

Honestly, the only difference between mine and yours in that pic is the brand of tools. I about shit my pants when somebody asked you if you start every project by throwing every tool you own in the air....

 

 

Mrs. F wanted to know wht I was cackling about...... "oohhhhh nothin"..."

 

 

 

WAY too familiar in that pic

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Grabbler...no worries...jump right in & looking good! Race boats suck up even more $$$$. Cruising is where it's at if you own your own boat.

 

P.S.> Drinking beer while I am mowing the lawn is high on my list too..almost as high as drinking beer while on the boat. B)

 

Here's my stbd spin sheet..I am getting a little better at these splices, I think. :unsure:

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Now push yer donut up into that and stitch in. Sweet!

 

Grabbler...no worries...jump right in & looking good! Race boats suck up even more $$$$. Cruising is where it's at if you own your own boat.

 

P.S.> Drinking beer while I am mowing the lawn is high on my list too..almost as high as drinking beer while on the boat. B)

 

Here's my stbd spin sheet..I am getting a little better at these splices, I think. :unsure:

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Kaptain Krazy...don't I want to load up the line and 'skinny it up' a bit before i do the donut? :unsure:

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Always the perfectionist!! you pound that bitch with a mallet, tug and pull and winch and whatnot and think a silly chute will skinny it up..... :rolleyes: ok, it might a little. <_<

 

Kaptain Krazy...don't I want to load up the line and 'skinny it up' a bit before i do the donut? :confused:

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Ok..by the way...here is an update from 20-ish posts ago..for now, the new companionway grab rails/hatch board retainers MARK I complete. I dunno if I like all of the intricate details which you cannot see in the pics, but at least I don't have to duct tape the boards to the cockpit anymore when I leave the boat..:rolleyes: & the new SS handrails are thru-bolted to the glass...so they are solid as a rock. B)

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Ok..by the way...here is an update from 20-ish posts ago..for now, the new companionway grab rails/hatch board retainers MARK I complete. I dunno if I like all of the intricate details which you cannot see in the pics, but at least I don't have to duct tape the boards to the cockpit anymore when I leave the boat..:rolleyes: & the new SS handrails are thru-bolted to the glass...so they are solid as a rock. B)

HB - The SST hand holds are a great idea. Easy to clean and never have to oil, varnish or replace. The teak replacement is wonderful as well. A most excellent upgrade. They should have built it that way to begin with.

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The only issue I have with this stuff is that when you attack the PVC board with a tool, the nice smooth finish that the outside of the stock material has is gone. The exposed material that was cut with a blade likes to attract dirt & sometimes snags 'technical' clothing...not sure the solution to that yet. May need to find a place that makes starboard in sizes like shelving boards, hence the Mark I moniker...but thanks..it looks great in the pics & every piece of exposed teak gone is good! B)

 

I like PVC board, but it is not HDPE.

 

Maybe I'll just buy big ass chunks of treated lumber.. :rolleyes:

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Fresh Water Cooling, Bitches.

 

edit - oops..here's the pic. This is prototype mode.. It works..now I gotta mount everything, cut hoses to length, & add OPSS's and fuses and shit.

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Bitchin! :)

 

Fresh Water Cooling, Bitches.

 

edit - oops..here's the pic. This is prototype mode.. It works..now I gotta mount everything, cut hoses to length, & add OPSS's and fuses and shit.

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Fresh Water Cooling, Bitches.

 

edit - oops..here's the pic. This is prototype mode.. It works..now I gotta mount everything, cut hoses to length, & add OPSS's and fuses and shit.

 

I envy your access. That's nice and clean. Good job on the ongoing rebuild.

 

I changed my oil and filter last week, filter first so I didn't pour hot oil all over everything, and an excellent vacuum pumpout of the whole sump if I do say so myself because it took the full amount of oil to refill it.

 

However, the repeated stabs of dipstick into unyielding Yanmar in the dark around the corner and behind some fucking braided hose was a little unenlightening while I added the last 600 ml in stages. I'm still bleeding.

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Sorry, Ish...one nice thing about the Catalina 30 is you can see the fucking engine. ;)

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He's bein' all secretive and shit. He's calling it "The Solomons Experiment". B)

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OK, so, I've realized the OPSS is useless in this setting. The electric antifreeze circulating pump that draws 2.1 amps is now wired directly to the ignition switch...there is no worry of backfilling cylinders, etc..since the fresh water side is a closed loop. I still keep the RWC part of the system closed during cranking, and open it up when the engine runs. KISS. I dunno what I was thinking with the OPSS.

 

Sea trials & a sleepover this weekend..Vitamin Sea will be geo-bacheloring on his boat, as well as a couple of other Solomons area anarchists that may join us. If you are around, we'll be in Cuckhold Creek on the Patuxent. B)

 

I even put the mainsail on last weekend. :rolleyes:

 

VS...did you check out post #941??? :unsure: I took that picture on May 5th. ? ?? ?

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BTW - 160°F water is hot when you drain it out of the block & it splashes your hand on the way by to the bilge for removal..:rolleyes:

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Check it...new house bank, bitches. I have no idea how old the start battery is (Gr24, the most stbd in the pic) but it works just fine. Combined the two Group 29's for 244 amp hours..I had a single Gr27 as a house battery and it was new in 2009 & is dead...WTF? :rolleyes:

 

And don't give me a hard time about the sloppy epoxy work and wires everywhere..it is an old boat..I'll paint that shit white and move the RG-8 cable out of there when I feel like it, and maybe even put red cable on the (+) side someday..Black is what I had on hand.

 

Goin' cruising tomorrow. Next up is doubling the fresh water capacity with another 17gal tank on the port side...Gonna need to do a little surgery on the boat to shoehorn that in though. :unsure:

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I think it's great, and no one is giving you any shit, you OCD perfectionist. It only has 17-20 gallons now? I'm surprised, I thought a boat that spacious would have had more from the factory.

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Yeah...17 is stock. that blue thing you see is the OEM water tank. Its stock location was where the batteries are now...i slid it as far forward as possible to get the batteries on the stbd side of the boat to solve the "Catalina port list from all the furniture & batteries on the port side" problem, and also, when I rebuilt the chart table and added the new DC panel, all the DC shit is on stbd now.

 

Anyway, later on, they offered a 25 gallon tank in the v-berth that gravity fed to the stbd tank, and the 17 gal. tank in the port settee was the holding tank. Since my boat only had the one 17 gal tank to stbd, I decided to build the 25 gallon tank as the holding tank, so now I am finally getting around to adding the other water tank. Part of that is a performance thing for me...the holding tank should start out empty, because who wants 25 gals. of water in the bow!! :unsure: - and the full tanks should at least be offsetting each other opposite the keel. It has become obvious to me however, that the port settee tank was one of the first pieces into the boat, so I either remove everything except (and maybe including) the motor to get it in there, or cut the boat and glue it back together...I am gonna cut & glue..it will be easier...but not this weekend. Mrs. Bitches will have to do with 17 gals. of water (plus the emergency spare 5 gals. I carry in the sail locker.)

 

So...the point is I am sure they offered this stuff by my hull number..the P.O. was cheap and was the minimalist. <_<

 

you OCD perfectionist.

 

By the way...you need to put those letters in alphabetical order like they should be...C-D-O.....:D

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You're putting a lot of tankage into this thing. You must be planning some nice, long cruises down the road. B)

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34 gallons of fresh is not a lot of tankage. It is minimalist by today's standards, but more than I am used to having. Mrs.Bitches however managed to use all of the fresh water by Sunday morning...:rolleyes: (not including my emergency stash..)

 

It was nice to sail upwind home from Broad Creek to Solomons in 15-18 true and still be able to go upwind. Once out of the Choptank River, we came across (& passed) a much newer C-30 (with big diesel) that was pounding directly south with no sails up and lost site of them as we rounded Drum Point...so we overtook & lost them thru the course of the afternoon while we beat down the Bay and they chose to pound & motor...must be all that water in the bow! :unsure:

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1337945545[/url]' post='3726749']

You're putting a lot of tankage into this thing. You must be planning some nice, long cruises down the road. B)

 

Baba 30 has 90 gallons. Just saying' cool.gif

We're prepared for the zombie apocalypse.

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34 gallons of fresh is not a lot of tankage. It is minimalist by today's standards, but more than I am used to having. Mrs.Bitches however managed to use all of the fresh water by Sunday morning...:rolleyes: (not including my emergency stash..)

 

It was nice to sail upwind home from Broad Creek to Solomons in 15-18 true and still be able to go upwind. Once out of the Choptank River, we came across (& passed) a much newer C-30 (with big diesel) that was pounding directly south with no sails up and lost site of them as we rounded Drum Point...so we overtook & lost them thru the course of the afternoon while we beat down the Bay and they chose to pound & motor...must be all that water in the bow! :unsure:

We can go through that much in a hot weekend, if we're not in conserving mode. We have 40 gal. tanks fore and aft and I think having the forward one full helps a bit with chop...that and the 40 lb. Delta and 50' of chain.

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By the way, we motored all the way to San Domingo Creek from Solomons, and the fucking motor ran at 2,000 RPM without a hitch.

 

With 240 Ah on the house bank now, I have more battery than I know what to do with.

 

On the way home, I wish I had a deck monkey to do the headsail change for me, but Mrs. Bitches took care of the driving (tiller, no autopilot) while I swapped headsails, just south of Choptank #5 (maybe #3?? :unsure: ). We proceeded across the Bay with #3 & reef, and shook the reef at the Gas docks.

 

The best sailing part of the weekend was close reaching from Li'l Cove Point to Drum Point at 6.5 knots over ground. Thanks to anarchist Vitamin Sea for cleaning the keel/rudder/prop this past weekend while we were at anchor. B)

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We have the original 20 gallon tank under the starboard settee, and no plans to change it at this time. Of course, we also use square juice bottles of ice in the icebox and cooler, and those turn into drinking water as we go, so that helps. We went 12 days on three tanks as a family of four - but we also replenished the cooler ice once or twice.

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Wow, you guys have a lot of tankage compared to me. I've got 20/20/5: 20 fuel, 20 water, 5 holding.

 

Four adult crew, (2 male/2 female) over two full days, we consumed 5-6 gallons of jugged water, and did not overfill the holding tank. I only put 3-5 gallons of water in the fresh water tank for washing up and doing dishes. I haven't run out yet. I bathed in the river, with a fresh water rinse off, the others showered at the marina.

 

I'm almost outta beer though...B)

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1337945545[/url]' post='3726749']

You're putting a lot of tankage into this thing. You must be planning some nice, long cruises down the road. B)

 

Baba 30 has 90 gallons. Just saying' cool.gif

We're prepared for the zombie apocalypse.

 

Kestrel has an amazing (for a racy boat) 80 gallons for water. But only stock with a ridiculous 10 gallon holding tank. The french must sweat it all away.

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Ajax...Mrs. Bitches uses lots of fresh water..she must do so while I am on another boat working on something, because I can't quite figure out where all the water goes yet.:unsure: - I went out a couple weekends ago by myself and used about 3-4 gallons, based on 1.5 GPM refill time. I carry a 5 gallon jerry can of extra water, plus 4 or 5 one gallon jugs for flushing (no salt water in the black water lines) that we could use for potable water if needed. So, I have ~27 gallons aboard, just not all in the pressure water tank. I figure I can say to Mrs. Bitches, "uh....you burned thru 17 gallons in xx hours...you have 5 left until we get to a place with water..." :rolleyes:

 

 

I do like my 25 gallon holding tank..because I do not want to overfill that bitch....<_<

 

My gas tank is 18 gallons..I have not had it 100% filled since I installed that tank.

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Well, flushing with fresh water certainly changes the equation. That's a whole other load on the system that I wasn't thinking of. I understand why you do it, trying to keep the odors to a minimum.

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Ajax, the reason to flush with fresh water is that urine and salt water combine to create a nasty crystallized mess in the hoses. I learned that from "Peggy, the head Mistress".

 

So at least, you should do the last flush of the day with fresh. Right now, it is easy to put three one gallon jugs in the bottom of the hanging locker.

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In an attempt to save CA (well, not really, but this thread is the closest thing I have to a 'boat blog'), I have an update on the continuing saga.

 

No pics..so it didn't happen. :rolleyes:

 

Finally made it back to the boat..what an epic day for sailing in the mid-Atlantic, high-wind warnings...NW 20-30 gusts to 50....it would be have been very sporty out there...There was nothing quite that intense in my nice little cove, and I worked on the boat instead. :)

 

Changed the oil today, along with the add-on Indigo oil filter that I installed last season. Also removed the heat exchanger, because I need to tidy up the "beta test" version which worked fine, and then hopefully permanently install it over the winter.

 

I removed the galley & stove (again), along with everything related to the engine exhaust behind the manifold..(hot section, waterlock muffler) The objective is to create enough room to install another water tank on the port side of the boat. Remember a Catalina 30's engine is in the middle of the boat, & the largest settee access point is directly above the engine, once the counter is removed. Back in the olden days, it is somewhat obvious to me that this port water tank (Catalina used it as the holding tank) was likely done prior to the engine going in the boat..i cannot see any other way to get a 17 gal. water tank in the current settee cutouts without structural (i.e., I gotta rebuild it later) consequences. I've gotten so good with the galley removal that it took about 45 minutes to have the stove out & moved to the settee, the galley counter in the v-berth and the hot stack/muffler for the engine off the manifold & out of the way.

 

Tomorrow, we'll try to make the tank fit...maybe I'll remember to take some pictures.

 

In other news, I've removed the lifelines on the port side after finding a cracked stanchion. Perfect excuse to replace it and go to synthetic lifelines. I am also thinking about replacing the windows..I have a full set of spares..a friend in California powder coated the frames and re-bedded them and loved the results. Leaky chainplates and no lifelines are a little higher on the priority list, but a wish list is nice.

 

Oh, and Merry Christmas, bitches...guess the Mayans weren't as accurate as everyone thought. <_<

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here's an update & a few pics.

 

Found a corroded manifold stud..how this thing was holding fluid in the block I am not sure. Hopefully, all of the stud is corroded enough I just need to run a tap into the block and put in a new stud. Pics are of:

#1 - the block..(notice the tell-tale signs of a coolant leak under the empty hole..probably been leaking a while..)

 

#2 manifold (stud coming thru right to left..corroded nubby sticking out the left side,

 

#3 current boat condition and trying to stuff in that water tank I discussed this spring (the galley is out again.. :rolleyes:) and

 

#4 a beer huggy that one of Mrs. Btiches' friends gave to her for Christmas. :D

 

P.S.> Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays if you celebrate something else. B)

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Wow, I bet all you bitches thought this thread was dead. It seems SA is slightly less toxic...time to give you an update!

 

That water tank in pic #2 above is now installed under the port settee...the busted manifold stud is fixed...the FWC has been permanently installed with an electric circulating pump. I upgraded the raw water pump to a Moyer 502 pump this year, and dropped the engine temp 20°F by forcing more raw water thru the exchanger. B)

 

I ripped out, templated, and built a new stbd bulkhead and also painted that side of the interior this winter while I had all that ripped out. Also poly'd all the other stuff on the stbd side, since I had it out & home.

 

I am on to window replacement & deck painting now. These are temp windows while I powdercoat the frames and replace the glass with new plexi windows. I am making these myself..I am NOT using that ugly ass kit where you screw these big ass windows on the outside..I will have tinted plexi inside the OEM frames, which I think looks great, when properly done. I removed all the old silicone the P.O. had smeared all over the frames to seal them, etc.

 

I am thinking Alex Seal for the deck & topsides (when I get around to it.) ...Gatekeeper seems to like it...maybe KiwiGrip for the non-skid parts. Right now, I am just painting all the smooth surfaces on the deck to learn roll & tipping techniques..that is the part that has failed the most..most of the gelcoat is flaking off on deck...the non-skid is holding up.

 

Oh..yeah..and a bimini...hey, it is a cruising boat.

 

Anyone notice the synthetic lifelines?

 

By the time I get all this other stuff done, it will be time to drop the rig and replace the standing rigging again.... :rolleyes:

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WOW HB that looks awesome!!! love the new interior varnish.

oceaneer

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You're going to have the best C-30 on the planet.

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This is like reading a soap opera, only useful... I've gotten to post #400, skipped ahead to see what the most recent post is... only thing is, when I start to do my own project list, I'm going to have to start reading from the beginning!

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No. not compared to the fucking teak. The biggest problem is the P.O. power washed the deck every season. He blew away all the soft teak, and most of the gelcoat. Regardless, I gotta do something - and replacing it with "not-teak" seems to be the way to go.

 

 

So I see the teak driftwood is still in place.

 

One of the first boats I listed as a broker was an Endeavour 32 owned by a gearhead. It was in mechanically good condition, but his solution to teak maintenance also involved a power washer.

 

I remarked in another thread that if a boat looks like it will do what I plan to do, it's beautiful to me. Everything worked on this one. That's beautiful to me.

 

The first customer I took to the boat took one look at the teak driftwood, yelled at me for wasting his time, and left. After that, I wouldn't take anyone to see the boat without first warning them that the teak looked like driftwood. No one else yelled at me.

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Tom, SS rails are $$. There is nothing wrong with the driftwood at present so, for now it stays. When I get around to painting the deck, it will be removed for that, and it will not return. The only other teak still on deck are the companionway slider covers....whatever you call those.

 

I did get to the boat today after about a month, to make sure she didn't sink. Sponged out the bilge, opened the hatches, checked dock lines, etc. There is lots of home shit to do this time of year..

 

This is what I installed this weekend. Mmmmmmm...pellet stove. Someday, I'd like to build a nice custom hearth. The one I bought with the stove did not fit the corner, so this one, although black & ugly was cheap, meets code, and is fiberboard clad with sheet metal (likely aluminum) so I was able to cut the corners down with a circular saw to fit it into the alcove, so it wasn't a toe stubber like the 48" $$$ stone thing that I can now return. However, the stone hearth is still cheaper than the SS handrails. I can buy about 1.25 SS handrails with the saved money. :D

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I knew this astute group would not be content with one picture. :rolleyes:

 

Tom, Out the side of the house. Underneath the generous valances, it is about a 5" square hole in the drywall/sheathing, to accomodate the in & out of the smoke/fresh air business. It did require some calculations to miss the studs (there is a stud in between the black wall fitting and the TV cable heading off to the right). The silver hose is fresh combustion air from outside, and the black is exhaust. This is a temporary setup since I will be re-doing it next summer when I don't need it and building a hearth..so ignore the zip ties on the fresh air intake. :D

 

If you really want a picture with the insulation hanging out of the wall, I have that too.

 

I do have an LP ventless heater in the garage..the main byproduct is watervapor, but it is only heating 460 sq. feet, and I only run it when I need the garage warm for the many winter 'boat stuff' products I am working on. The pellet stove in theory will heat 2,000 sq. ft. with 41,000 BTU output. A buddy came over to check it out and noticed when we walked outside, "oh..there's the burning wood smell".

 

I even get a Maryland gov't credit for installing an 'efficient' metal box in my house that burns compressed sawdust! B)

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Hey Bitches,

 

Have you considered installing inboard genoa tracks yet? I've been poking around the net and haven't found any measurements for where they should be placed, but everyone agrees the boat needs it if you really want to go upwind.

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Grrr...all the cool kids have them just under the aft most windows on the side deck. It definitely gives you a few more degrees of point. When tacking in tight quarters, I get pissed off not being able to tack inside 90°...so maybe.

 

Speaking of tracks...those renegade tracks up on the cabin top that are too far forward for a 155%, but also are too far aft for the OEM 120% working jib are now gone. Since I was mixing epoxy, and plan to pain the deck soon, I removed them and filled the holes. I also started filling in all the voids in the cabin top between the window & cabin liner today, until I was tired of mixing epoxy. It is getting brisk here, so I used 2 pumps of slow & 1 pump of fast hardener, mixed with some 406 & 407 to get as thick as possible but so I could still inject it with a syringe in the gaps between the cabin liner & deck where the windows belong. With the big voids, the window frames on the inside were crushing when you sucked the two pieces of window together. I mixed about 6 or 7 batches and got tired and it got dark, so I'll go back tomorrow and do some more. Maybe I'll take some pics since it won't be dark. :rolleyes:

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One more note, when I last was working on upwind ability, I used the above said tracks to create inhaulers...the problem was they were too far forward...maybe I'll just slide them aft and sheet the jib from there...I'd have to figure out a cheek block behind the winch or something on the coaming since the cabin is higher than the genoa winches...lots of work.

 

TAB, sometimes...It is much better in a nice tranquil spot where i have the boat. If I was at a real marina, I'd never get anything done with all the 'dock experts' running around.

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Wow, that's nice! I've been thinking about adding one of those to replace the LP turd we have.

 

Tom, SS rails are $$. There is nothing wrong with the driftwood at present so, for now it stays. When I get around to painting the deck, it will be removed for that, and it will not return. The only other teak still on deck are the companionway slider covers....whatever you call those.

 

I did get to the boat today after about a month, to make sure she didn't sink. Sponged out the bilge, opened the hatches, checked dock lines, etc. There is lots of home shit to do this time of year..

 

This is what I installed this weekend. Mmmmmmm...pellet stove. Someday, I'd like to build a nice custom hearth. The one I bought with the stove did not fit the corner, so this one, although black & ugly was cheap, meets code, and is fiberboard clad with sheet metal (likely aluminum) so I was able to cut the corners down with a circular saw to fit it into the alcove, so it wasn't a toe stubber like the 48" $$$ stone thing that I can now return. However, the stone hearth is still cheaper than the SS handrails. I can buy about 1.25 SS handrails with the saved money. :D

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Not much REAL progress today. Had to stop in the middle of the day and go racing, and highs in the 50's and lows around 40°F make for VERY slow curing epoxy. Did some work injecting & stuffing epoxy in the window grooves today. Getting better getting them in and out. I had 7 of the 8 windows out today and got them all back in before it got dark.

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Ok..by the way...here is an update from 20-ish posts ago..for now, the new companionway grab rails/hatch board retainers MARK I complete. I dunno if I like all of the intricate details which you cannot see in the pics, but at least I don't have to duct tape the boards to the cockpit anymore when I leave the boat.. :rolleyes: & the new SS handrails are thru-bolted to the glass...so they are solid as a rock. cool.gif

 

Sorry to dig this up from way back - that's Starboard isn't it? I bought some off-brand HDPE for some work on my S2, and it's cracked to hell over the last 3 seasons.

 

I've heard some say that there isn't enough hatchboard engagement on the C30's companionway. Did you increase the overlap by making your trim pieces wider?

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Grrr..those hatchboard trim/retainers are PVC board. No, I did NOT extend them, but I should have..I basically replaced what was there, but in a hard rain, some water works around the hatch boards & ends up on the floor under the stairs. One of my boards is noticeably heavier than the others, so somehow it is soaking up water as well.

 

Once I am not busy with other stuff, I may come back and re-do these again..your comments are interesting since I am experiencing issues with it.

 

So this weekend, I added some tape on the outside of the windows and added some more screws in the temp frames, as it was almost raining in the boat last Monday evening. Got her all winterized and took home all the cushions and other "soft" stuff that likes to grow mold over the winter. Sad day, but we'd never go out on the boat again anyway, except for a daysail this time of year. But at least with all the stuff off, that means the boat is back in "maintenance mode", so I have more room to work. More wiring is on the agenda this winter..I have no cabin lights to stbd yet.

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Baby steps. Got some 1/4" ply from the local big box store and chopped it all up. I have a plexi sandwich for each new window.. 1/4" ply --> .316" tinted plexi --> 1/4" ply --> old glass as template. This is all held together with double-sided outdoor carpet tape.

 

Thought about several different options for cutting, from a table saw, to a router with the old glass on the bearing, a scroll saw, or maybe a band saw. I don't own a band saw, but I have the other three. I have a scrap of plexi that I am using as a sacrificial test piece. It worked OK on the table saw, but it is tough to not shatter the old glass..I could get it close though, but I still need a second cut. When I get my scroll saw back from my buddy, I am gonna try it too. :rolleyes::D

 

If those options don't work out with my scrap piece, I have access to a nice industrial sized band saw from the same guy that helped me build a few tillers over the years. B)

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My method for cutting acrylic or lexan has been to rough cut with either a circular saw or a jig saw, and then trim to a template using the router and bearing (as you mentioned). Works a charm.

 

Slow cutting, or you will melt it.

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My method for cutting acrylic or lexan has been to rough cut with either a circular saw or a jig saw, and then trim to a template using the router and bearing (as you mentioned). Works a charm.

 

Slow cutting, or you will melt it.

 

A band saw with a fine blade works a treat for the trim cut. Router for the final cut for sure.

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Sculp & Ish, Are we talking about moving the material at slow speed to avoid melt? My router is a single speed. But, my 18v Porter Cable jig saw is variable.

 

Might need to check into cheap band saws, so i can get another tool!! :D

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If you are making direct replacement lenses for hatches or cabinsides, the best tool is a router. You simply use the old lense as a template to guide the router while cutting the new. Stick the old lense to the new (with the mask still in place on it) with double sided tape. Use a router with a flush trim bit set to follow the edge of the old lense. A router table works best for this. Once you've trimmed all the way round, you're done - the new piece is identical to the old.

 

There's no need to cut it out with any kind of saw first as long as the new rough blank is reasonably close in size to the old.

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