Hike, Bitches!

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I removed some deck hardware and over-drilled some holes in the boat today...21 to be exact. That equals two spin pole chocks, half the bow pulpit, 1/4 of the stern pulpit, and three stanchion bases. I doubt the epoxy I poured in the over-drilled holes will cure here in MD since it is in the 30's again tonight, but maybe it will tomorrow in the sun & 50's before we get rain. Once I build backing plates for all this nonsense and get these re-bedded, that will be about 75% of the stanchion/pulpit holes in the deck that have received this treatment . I am desperately trying to stop the deck leaks, one hole at a time.

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I removed some deck hardware and over-drilled some holes in the boat today...21 to be exact. That equals two spin pole chocks, half the bow pulpit, 1/4 of the stern pulpit, and three stanchion bases. I doubt the epoxy I poured in the over-drilled holes will cure here in MD since it is in the 30's again tonight, but maybe it will tomorrow in the sun & 50's before we get rain. Once I build backing plates for all this nonsense and get these re-bedded, that will be about 75% of the stanchion/pulpit holes in the deck that have received this treatment . I am desperately trying to stop the deck leaks, one hole at a time.

 

Have you ever used System 3 Cold Cure? Works very well right to almost freezing.

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No..never heard of it. I am not in any real rush...however, I did want to get the batch mixed and in the holes today, so they would cure before the next storm system comes thru...here it will be rain, but lots more snow up in NE apparently.

 

I'll check into it, Ish, thanks.

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I feel your pain on little leaks and pulling hardware. I pulled the track on the starboard toe rail last weekend. Has been a hack job by the prior PO's EVEN had silicone caulk on the interior. I was not aware it was there until I pulled interior wood trim that cover the bolts where the track is. Many of the screws had damaged heads from others that had given up on this project. I put an electric torque wrench on them, 3 hours or so and 40 screws and bolts later it was off. It took longer to clears all of the caulk off the track.

 

For now all of the holes are plugged with butyl tape, waiting for warmer weather and a bunch of new bolts. No, I am not refilling and redrilling all of those holes, I would never finish the project.

 

Who has the best price on stainless screws and bolts, Fastenal?

 

dew

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Just be sure to countersink all the screw holes so you get an O-ring of butyl around every one of them.

 

Your comment about silicone sort of indicates that you know this but just to be sure - do NOT put sealant on the inside - if the deck seal fails you want the water to drip through so you know about it.

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I feel your pain on little leaks and pulling hardware. I pulled the track on the starboard toe rail last weekend. Has been a hack job by the prior PO's EVEN had silicone caulk on the interior. I was not aware it was there until I pulled interior wood trim that cover the bolts where the track is. Many of the screws had damaged heads from others that had given up on this project. I put an electric torque wrench on them, 3 hours or so and 40 screws and bolts later it was off. It took longer to clears all of the caulk off the track.

 

For now all of the holes are plugged with butyl tape, waiting for warmer weather and a bunch of new bolts. No, I am not refilling and redrilling all of those holes, I would never finish the project.

 

Who has the best price on stainless screws and bolts, Fastenal?

 

dew

 

dew, it seems that Hillman has the corner on the market here in SoMD (Lowe's, Ace, Dyson's). I do not know who supplies Fastenal, but I do have one nearby.

 

I agree that pulling the tracks on the toe rail is a giant PITA. On my boat, about 50% of the nuts need some dremel grinding of the cabin liner to even get a wrench on them..and I have not done this yet, but inspected it closely. :rolleyes:

 

Thanks Sloop..You guessed it, what I am really fighting now is leaks thru the deck that don't make it thru the cabin liner, and end up in an ugly brown streak (stained from the plywood used as deck core) that the water runs thru along the way, and exits at the back of the boat in the quarter berth. I do not know if I will ever get them all...but I'll keep trying to reduce it.

 

Went to the boat today after our snow on Tuesday, and the temp has been below freezing since then..it is still floating & scupper drains are still well above waterline. It has about 6" of snow on it, extra in the cockpit due to the nearby boathouse (drifts) and that extra weight dropped the waterline about 1/2"...not much I could do about it. Supposed to be in the 40's tomorrow, maybe some will melt.

 

I can cut some HDPE stanchion backing plates to feel like I've done something boat related this weekend. - Mrs. Bitches has had me busy ripping out carpet and replacing the flooring in the guest bedroom with wood laminate recently. If Mrs. Bitches is happy, everyone's happy!!! :D

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Started de-winterizing this weekend...The motor runs...the stbd settee is back in order (water tank & batteries back in place)..

 

Tightened up all of the port side 'toe rail' nuts I could reach while I had trim out for refinishing. A few of them had signs of leaking when raining. Desperately trying to get the inside of the boat to stay dry, at least when she is not moving is proving very difficult. :rolleyes:

 

Current state of the port side..last year I ripped the stbd side apart!

 

Sent the window frames off to the powder coaters finally. I have nice new smoked acrylic windows to go back in when they are done that will replace the tempered glass from 1977.

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Nice. We just pulled all the windows in mine. Found gaps between the inner and outer skin. In some cases its clear that it froze and cracked the inner skin. Replaced the front 2 windows with lewmar size 2 opening. The rear are getting external lexan. No more aluminum frames.

 

Had to pull the engine to rebuild the hbw100 tranny. Its in pieces on the kitchen table... because thats where mrs. Grrrr disassembled it.

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Started de-winterizing this weekend...The motor runs...the stbd settee is back in order (water tank & batteries back in place)..

 

Tightened up all of the port side 'toe rail' nuts I could reach while I had trim out for refinishing. A few of them had signs of leaking when raining. Desperately trying to get the inside of the boat to stay dry, at least when she is not moving is proving very difficult. :rolleyes:

 

Current state of the port side..last year I ripped the stbd side apart!

 

Sent the window frames off to the powder coaters finally. I have nice new smoked acrylic windows to go back in when they are done that will replace the tempered glass from 1977.

 

 

Why not use glass again?

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Nice. We just pulled all the windows in mine. Found gaps between the inner and outer skin. In some cases its clear that it froze and cracked the inner skin. Replaced the front 2 windows with lewmar size 2 opening. The rear are getting external lexan. No more aluminum frames.

 

Had to pull the engine to rebuild the hbw100 tranny. Its in pieces on the kitchen table... because thats where mrs. Grrrr disassembled it.

That's awesome.

 

 

 

Started de-winterizing this weekend...The motor runs...the stbd settee is back in order (water tank & batteries back in place)..

 

Tightened up all of the port side 'toe rail' nuts I could reach while I had trim out for refinishing. A few of them had signs of leaking when raining. Desperately trying to get the inside of the boat to stay dry, at least when she is not moving is proving very difficult. :rolleyes:

 

Current state of the port side..last year I ripped the stbd side apart!

 

Sent the window frames off to the powder coaters finally. I have nice new smoked acrylic windows to go back in when they are done that will replace the tempered glass from 1977.

 

 

Why not use glass again?

 

 

Other than the ability to have smoked lenses, I'd also like to know. I was just planning on reusing my glass.

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"If your wife ever said 'honey come move the transmission so I can take a bath' you might be a redneck" Jeff Foxworthy.

 

Congratulations Grrr on marrying that woman.

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Nice. We just pulled all the windows in mine. Found gaps between the inner and outer skin. In some cases its clear that it froze and cracked the inner skin. Replaced the front 2 windows with lewmar size 2 opening. The rear are getting external lexan. No more aluminum frames.

 

Had to pull the engine to rebuild the hbw100 tranny. Its in pieces on the kitchen table... because thats where mrs. Grrrr disassembled it.

 

Boy did you marry well.

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Acrylic? Are you sure about that? Acrylic has a really nasty tendency to Crack. Polycarbonate is usually a better option.

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Acrylic? Are you sure about that? Acrylic has a really nasty tendency to Crack. Polycarbonate is usually a better option.

 

Polycarbonate? Are you sure about that? Polycarbonate has a really nasty tendency to scratch and yellow. Cast acrylic is usually a better option.

 

:)

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Nice. We just pulled all the windows in mine. Found gaps between the inner and outer skin. In some cases its clear that it froze and cracked the inner skin. Replaced the front 2 windows with lewmar size 2 opening. The rear are getting external lexan. No more aluminum frames.

 

Had to pull the engine to rebuild the hbw100 tranny. Its in pieces on the kitchen table... because thats where mrs. Grrrr disassembled it.

 

Boy did you marry well.

 

She has only demonstrated an affection for transmission pieces in the kitchen, bonus points will be awarded when she correctly reassembles it!

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Nice. We just pulled all the windows in mine. Found gaps between the inner and outer skin. In some cases its clear that it froze and cracked the inner skin. Replaced the front 2 windows with lewmar size 2 opening. The rear are getting external lexan. No more aluminum frames.

 

Had to pull the engine to rebuild the hbw100 tranny. Its in pieces on the kitchen table... because thats where mrs. Grrrr disassembled it.

 

Boy did you marry well.

 

She has only demonstrated an affection for transmission pieces in the kitchen, bonus points will be awarded when she correctly reassembles it!

 

 

I'm sorry, someone spoke affection for a tranny in the kitchen?

 

Great, get ready for Cross-Dressing Anarchy any time soon.

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It's his WIFE that spoke affection for a tranny - he may have to start cross dressing just to keep her.

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Hey bitches give us an update! My wife and I just finished installing the transmission and we finished our Window patterns. I cut the deck off around the mast step due to some compression and I'm going to reglass it this weekend.

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Grrrr...here is your update!

 

The port side of the boat is re-assembled. I have been off at weddings, and Southern Bay Race Week (on Easy Button, another PHRF "C" 4KSB), so ol' T.A. has been neglected. I did drive by and sponge out the bilge today..so she hasn't sunk, yet. :)

 

Still working on the wiring..it is just hanging out in this 2nd pic. Also relocated the P.O.'s original placement of the holding tank vent (it was in the head, sticking out the side of the cabin next to the window, which smacked you in the head, every time you sat on the head.. :rolleyes:...you can just see the new vent location in the right edge of this pic, adjacent to the 2013 water tank vent I added, & outboard of the aft lower chainplate. Some day, I may close in the plumbing stuff under the forward window in the pic with cabinet doors..apparently that is a popular option on newer boats to hide the plumbing that was added, and I am slowly following suit.

 

Here is my take on the acrylic windows...for some reason, Frank Butler thought in about 1974 that a compound curved cabin would be cool..(actually, he probably thought about this in the late 60's when he did the Catalina 22!!) however, tempered glass is flat.... when you try to conform the flat glass to a compound shape it inevitably leaks...the acrylic is apparently better at conforming, so maybe it will leak a little less. I chose to keep the frames because I think the "retrofit" Catalina screw-on-the-outside windows are ugly..but that is just me.

 

1st pic is the parts getting poly in the garage after refacing the little mini-bulkheads with teak veneer, and 2nd pic is stuff screwed back in the boat. All fresh gloss white paint too, except for the overhead...need to yank the teak grab rails and finish filling/sanding/smoothing in the holes between windows & grab rail before painting. Damn this type of detail work takes a loooong time! You can't see it in the #2 pic, but the wooden shelf surfaces now have formica on them to match the galley counter top...I'm so fancy!!!! :unsure:

 

edit - in the first pic, on top of the table saw in the background, you can see the acrylic windows, sandwiched in between 1/4" plywood which I used to keep from chipping the acrylic when I cut it on the band saw. Still waiting on the frames!!

 

edit 2 - Here is a picture you are never sure about as a boat owner...willingly drilling holes in the hull!!! (Adding the vent) - that blue stripe is the cove stripe on my dock neighbor's 4KSB sister ship C-30, hull #355.

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Edited by Hike, Bitches!

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Nice! I agree with you on retrofit windows, the frames look much better on these boats. Mine are frameless, just plexiglass stuck on the outside of the cabin top, no leaks yet *knock on wood*

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Nice. We were tightening up the trim - which required removing all the teak plugs and putting longer screws in - when we discovered the rear port shroud bulkhead is rotten. It's the right vertical piece in your middle picture. This weekend I'll be adding the last 5 layers of glass to the mast step, and probably pulling that bulkhead in the process.

 

My external teak is in pieces. Literally. I have to buy new and replace it, but the checkbook for the boat is running a bit low right now. I'll try to get some pictures to show what we're doing.

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Nice! I agree with you on retrofit windows, the frames look much better on these boats. Mine are frameless, just plexiglass stuck on the outside of the cabin top, no leaks yet *knock on wood*

 

I agree some. A lot of people who do the lexan/acrylic windows make them too large so they look bad because of proportions. Like these.

 

RetrofitWindows1big.jpg

 

Not only large, but they didn't even take the time to line up the bottom edges so that the things were straight. Yuck. And those are the 'premade' windows from the retrofitwindow website that are specifically for cat 30's.

 

But done correctly, I think they look nice. Hopefully, mine look this nice:

 

newportscloseup.jpg

 

I've got a call in to cruising concepts to see if they sell the plastic fascias seperately. Don't get me wrong - I like how wood looks. But I've got so many other things to do on this boat, I'll be perfectly happy with interior frames that look like this

 

interiortapedtrim.jpg

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Grrr...those do not look too bad in that 2nd pic!!!

 

I am slowly removing ALL the of the exterior teak. I just bought four 48" SS rails off a 22' Sea Ray from Great Lakes Skipper and it was about 1/3 of the cost of what Catalina Direct wants for the 100" pieces.

The only teak left on deck is the parts that screw into the deck to hold the companionway slider in place...I gotta have a pic around somewhere....

 

Be sure to take some pics of the mast step debacle...I've been lucky that mine is holding up so far...and I have not replaced the main port bulkhead, yet...BTW, that port bulkhead is a little bit wider than a 4x8 sheet...you'll notice a seam and a small second sliver of plywood outside the port main chainplate...just under that forward main cabin window.

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Grrr...those do not look too bad in that 2nd pic!!!

 

I am slowly removing ALL the of the exterior teak. I just bought four 48" SS rails off a 22' Sea Ray from Great Lakes Skipper and it was about 1/3 of the cost of what Catalina Direct wants for the 100" pieces.

The only teak left on deck is the parts that screw into the deck to hold the companionway slider in place...I gotta have a pic around somewhere....

 

Be sure to take some pics of the mast step debacle...I've been lucky that mine is holding up so far...and I have not replaced the main port bulkhead, yet...BTW, that port bulkhead is a little bit wider than a 4x8 sheet...you'll notice a seam and a small second sliver of plywood outside the port main chainplate...just under that forward main cabin window.

 

Holy crap on a cracker. The frames for the insides of the windows I showed in my picture are actually CNC milled from stock rather than molded. I spoke with Cruising Concepts. $655 for a set of 8. I think I'm going back to my plan of making my own. I bet they're a nice quality product, but I only paid $3k for the boat. I sure can't justify that for the window frames. Elbow grease is always cheaper.

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Your windows do look nice. On my boat there is a recessed area where the windows mount, so they fit flush with the cabin sides when finished. That first picture you posted is more typical to what i've seen around, yuck.

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HB,

As I am now going into my 5th summer without a sailboat (other than my 8' Trinka), I am having serious boat withdrawal, and opened up SA yesterday to see what's up. I started reading through some posts and stumbled on your saga of renovating your Dad's old Catalina. I fell asleep into about the 4th page and woke up 7 years later. [Just kidding.] Actually, quite a fascinating read. You have much more patience that I do HB! By the looks of the few pix that you have posted, you've done a great job with the restoration. I'm sure Mrs. Bitches is very proud of your handy work as well as your perseverance.

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Hey, FC...great to hear from you on the SA. Yes...the thread got off track for a while, and in the last couple years, I've just posted occasional updates. Cosmetically, she is still not so good but it is a work in progress. Mechanically, I'd take it almost anywhere. On the cosmetic front, I have a small palette of Alexseal products to experiment with and start on the priming/painting part too (if I have my history correct, the guy that started Alexseal a few years ago was the same guy that developed Awlgrip back in the day, and then started his own company after the patent restrictions expired..) De-cluttering the deck of teak and windows and hardware has been the main priority recently, so I can figure out how to use a two-part enamel paint and try to freshen up the boat, and then re-install the necessities like windows, and upgrade to stainless hand rails instead of teak.

 

Just got a call from Ship Point Machine in Hollywood, MD today that my window frames are baking in the oven and will be ready to pick up tomorrow!!!! (What that really means is I gotta get busy on the painting part of the deck around the windows since now I have no more excuses and all of the parts in hand.) Me and my DeWalt sander will be good friends this weekend!

 

If you ever want to come help me work on the boat to get your fix, I always have cold beer!

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So...here are some pics of the window project, as I've realized I haven't really been posting enough detail.

 

I am usually really bad at taking before pics..but the first pic is before I started. The P.O. slathered everything with grey silicone..great.. :rolleyes:

Also, the teak hand rails are gone, holes filled, and so are the cabin top tracks..None of my sails fit that track..eight less holes on each side!!

 

pic 2 - Windows out and doing some repair work on the core between the deck and cabin liner..this pic still shows the relatively new Lewmar #2 ports up front..I also yanked those this spring and had them powder coated too, so that all the window frames will match.

 

pic 3 - Pile of window frames after hours and hours on a the bench grinder with a wire wheel to remove all that silicone.

 

pic 4 Using the old windows as a template to make the new plexi windows on the router..the plexi is sandwiched in the 1/4" ply to avoid chattering in the router..that worked great.

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Nice. Wish I had a router table like that. No garage space though right now. I noticed that your boat has a traveler mounted in the rear. Mine has a cabin top. How is it mounted so that your rear seat still opens?

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Grr...remember, mine is really old school..1977..hull#511...the traveler is mounted directly over the rudder post. just forward of the lazarette...you can jam your fingers in between the lazarette door and the traveler if you are not careful.

I noticed with the bolts/nuts in your cabin pics, that you have the cabin mounted traveler.. :D

 

Sometimes, I think I want a cabin mounted traveler..but sometimes I don't...every piece of deck hardware I am removing makes me like the clean deck more and more..especially if I ever build my PT11 nesting dinghy...I need a clean deck under the boom to store it. B)

 

That router & table is a Harbor Freight special..item # 95380 (currently $99, I paid a little less than that, but that is still decent price)..I clamp it to my Black & Decker Workmate portable bench. Any 1/4" shaft router bits fit in it just fine. One caution..the skinny wrenches it comes with to tighten the collar really suck..my better quality cone bike wrenches work much better.

 

See attached pic of the tiller pilot I added a couple years ago..it shows traveler location details.

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Ok, you asked for more info on the mast step. Here's the 80% finished picture: 20150616_155001.jpg

 

We talked before we started cutting and decided to cut out to the same width as the center hatch, then build it back up to match the same height as the hatch so it looks like it belongs there. We used the Fein to cut through the deck. This boat has a THICK layer of gelcoat, followed by a crapload of brown filler, then glass. I peeled that off and the plywood was wet but still had structure to it. I used a chisel to remove the plywood, only to find what appeared to be another layer of plywood underneath. However, there was epoxy between and the bottom plywood was dry, so we stopped pulling out there.

 

We let it dry a couple days, then mixed up a gallon ($100) of penetrating epoxy and started pouring in. Mrs. Grrr ran around inside the boat watching for it to come through. Unhappily, it came through in a couple places we didn't expect. More on that later though. Once the gallon was in, we let that cure overnight. Then we laid up:

 

1. 6 layers of cloth with West epoxy.

2. 4 layers of chopped up boat with epoxy and cotton flox. ( http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/flockedcotton.php) The chopped up boat was large pieces (8"x8") of 1/4" thick solid glass that we cut out of another boat with a chainsaw then ground flat. This makes for a much quicker layup that doesn't start anything on fire, since 1.5" of solid epoxy would get very, very hot. Your neighbors may be very upset when they come back and see the side of their boat missing. We plan to be gone before they return.

3. 6 layers of cloth on top of that.

 

That was all left to sit and cure overnight, then I came back with the 4" angle grinder and cleaned off the blush and smoothed it a little.

 

4. The green you see in the picture, which is the high-strength vinylester filler. Ground this flat. Used a meter stick laid across the rear and front edge of the hatch to make it completely true.

 

The picture is us building up the edge and sculpting it to the match the same angle that's on the hatch lip so it looks like it was original boat.

 

The real bitch of the whole thing is that penetrating epoxy came out on top of 3 different bulkheads. It came out of the rear bathroom wall, the small one aft of that, and the starboard one. Tap tests confirm the worst - there are rotten areas in all three. We're going on a three week cruise soon with this boat, so temporary stainless straps are going to be installed for the cruise, but starting in September we're going to tear the interior bulkheads out and remove all the deck hardware and the sucker is getting new bulkheads and a new interior + exterior paint job. We'll only have use of a shop for two months or so. That's going to be tight considering I already have a real job + kids. Mrs. Grrr got the windows finished yesterday and will probably have the mast step sanded today.

 

I cheaped out on the wiring. Since it works as far as I know, I didn't cut into it and put a vertical PVC tube through the deck for the wires to run in. That will come later if I have to rewire. Fingers are crossed that I don't. I expect that when we pull the bulkheads I'll end up cutting the deck open around the chainplates. If it's leaked through enough to rot the bulkheads, odds are that it's in the plywood around the chainplates inside the deck sandwhich too. It's smarter to do that now since we'll repaint it later this year anyway.

 

Mrs. Grrr was happy to inform me that Awlgrip now comes in metallic flake colors. I was simply estatic to hear that. Just estatic. Really. Happy. I'm going to go find a corner and cry now.

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Grrr...nice..you are really tearing the boat apart...no pic though..try again!

 

I added jock straps to the bottom bolt of my chain plates and bolted in stainless angle at the lower anchor points for the original wood bulkheads...I figure the bulkheads are almost fluff now and not needed except to spread the load a bit and keep the boat from oil canning..I did replace the stbd chainplate bulkhead last year (2014), and I will eventually have to replace the port bulkhead..but I think structurally, I am doing OK..the boat does not creak or moan down below like it did a few years ago!

 

pic 1 - jockstrap pic from 2009. since I do not remember the last time I posted them..anyone familiar with a C-30 will know where they are..The stbd bulkhead has since been replaced (see pic 2), but the jockstrap remains in between the hanging locker and bulkhead.

 

pic 2 - new stbd bulkhead with refinished hanging locker.. i have doors for the hanging locker too..just haven't re-installed them yet. :rolleyes:

 

pic 3 - angle of hole saw to get conduit thru deck without disturbing the compression post

 

pic 4 - conduit I drilled thru the deck while mast was down in 2010-2011??. I put in a junction box in the head (who the hell showers in a C-30 head?) if/when I ever drop the mast again. My buddy and fellow SA'er Smurff did that calculation!! B)

 

pic 5 - Port jockstrap anchor at the bottom of the settee. Gotta pull the head counter top for access to that one, but I am thinking about adding an access port behind the head for inspection. This was before the jockstrap was installed, but it is similar to the stbd seen in previous pic. Digital cameras are great too though..like this shot..just stick your hand in there and take a pic..look OK? Cool..check it next year!

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P.S.> The windows are turning out to be a giant PITA. Got the frames back from the machine shop (powdercoated!!)..they turned out great...and the new acrylic I made looks good..but re-assembling is a bitch. Here is window #1, just dry-fitted to see how it goes.

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P.S.> The windows are turning out to be a giant PITA. Got the frames back from the machine shop (powdercoated!!)..they turned out great...and the new acrylic I made looks good..but re-assembling is a bitch. Here is window #1, just dry-fitted to see how it goes.

 

Looks gorgeous!

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I am in catalina 30 hell. We were supposed to leave June 30th for Georgian bay. Instead, on June 30th, we stepped on the boat and were greet with a smell that surely emanated from the deepest bowels of hell. Or from one of my sons. The ABS holding tank split along the bottom seam. Luckily the C30's tank is accessible so we pulled it, cleaned it, patched it, and reinstalled it. That took 3 days.

 

But wait! My good old atomic diesel 5411 decided not to turn over when we tried to take the boat down and pump out the broken holding tank. Because it's a diesel everyone thought it was just a dead battery bank. So I replaced the car battery someone had put in place with a new deep cycle, so now I have twins. We turned the motor over again with high hopes and were met with the same whirrrrrr-clunk. Whirrrrr-clunk. The third clunk was followed by water pouring out of the air intake at roughly the rate of a fire hose.

 

The anti-syphon valve evidently failed on our 100 yard trip from the hoist to this slip. When the engine cooled it pulled water from the exhaust box into the engine, and somehow turned the whole system into a giant irrigiation system for my bilge. After 1.5 weeks of injectors, compression tests, changing the oil, and ether, the only thing on the engine that we hadn't touched was the injection pump. So that's down at Superior Turbo getting rebuilt (and has been there since Friday). Did I mention the broken head bolt, the shattered valve spring, or the lost exhaust-box plug? God help me if I ever hear the engine turning over more and more slowly as we deplete the battery.....

 

Believe me we've discussed an insurance claim on the engine. That escalated to a discussion on which fuel would best light the boat on fire. The diesel filling the bilge hasn't done it yet. The old wood boat in the slip next to me is the leading choice for kindling, but the keel was laid in 1936 and the guy just got the wood to expand enough so that he's not sinking. I just can't do that to him....

 

In the mean time the boat has redone spreaders, a new inverter, rewired AC wiring, new spreader deck lights, a new mast head light, all new head plumbing, an anti-drain back on the bilge pump, a new shelf in the bathroom, a new 110 outlet in the kitchen, and a direct-wired microwave that won't run from the inverter.

 

The mast went up yesterday after resolving our wiring. So much for my vacation. Now I just need to get the thing going so my wife and kids can go without me.

 

I hope you don't mind me sharing your thread. I imagine if each catalina 30 owner posted all his own work and pain we could flood the cruising forum.

 

PS - I almost forgot one of the best items! The motor would turn over and all the electronics would function with the main 1/2/All Perko switch set to 'off'. I blamed the previous owner. Turns out I was partly right. Someone had over-tightened the #1 battery lug on the back of the big Perko Main switch. It broke the anti-rotate feature in the plastic housing and was laying up against its next door neighbor. It had been that way long enough that it rubbed through the electrical tape they had wrapped it with and was directly shorting. I replaced the switch with a new-fangled one that has built in alternator protection for when one of my sons shuts it off with the motor running. That's a nice piece of mind right there, and was only $20 more than the normal switch.

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Oh my... I'm genuinely sorry for your troubles. Persevere, my friend.

In the interest of benefiting from your tribulations, would you mind sharing the part number of your new battery switch?

Thanks.

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Oh my... I'm genuinely sorry for your troubles. Persevere, my friend.

In the interest of benefiting from your tribulations, would you mind sharing the part number of your new battery switch?

 

Thanks.

 

Yep, it's an 8503DP. Sells at West Marine for $73,

 

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/perko--battery-switches--P009_272_004_007

 

This best describes how they work:

 

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/91

 

I'm upgrading my alternator to a higher amperage and external regulator - the original is only 55 amp and that doesn't charge quite fast enough if you've got a lot of load.

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Wow, I am out of the loop...Grr...the original Atomic 4 Motorola alternator is only 35 amps...and it is stock regulated at 13.8V. Too low. I have the Motorola alt. still but I have an adjustable regulator that allows me to pump 14.1V into my battery banks. If you have a 55amp that might be a Moyer Mando alternator.?????

 

So..here is a bit of an update. I've been fucking around with the windows for almost a year now, and I finally have got them installed. I used Gatekeeper's advice and bought some Alexseal paint to start the deck refurbishing process, and painted the smooth white area where the windows go, while I had them out. I've installed the new plexi windows, new U channel using Dow 795 silicone, and butyl on the frame to cabin seal. Two rain storms in the last week, and no leaks. B)

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Wow, I am out of the loop...Grr...the original Atomic 4 Motorola alternator is only 35 amps...and it is stock regulated at 13.8V. Too low. I have the Motorola alt. still but I have an adjustable regulator that allows me to pump 14.1V into my battery banks. If you have a 55amp that might be a Moyer Mando alternator.?????

 

So..here is a bit of an update. I've been fucking around with the windows for almost a year now, and I finally have got them installed. I used Gatekeeper's advice and bought some Alexseal paint to start the deck refurbishing process, and painted the smooth white area where the windows go, while I had them out. I've installed the new plexi windows, new U channel using Dow 795 silicone, and butyl on the frame to cabin seal. Two rain storms in the last week, and no leaks. B)

 

I love the redone deck and the window looks great. We're still located in catalina hell. The motor couldn't be fixed, so we insuranced it. Got a new Beta sitting in a box waiting to go in. The old one is out (for the third time). Going to ebay off the transmission since it had only 10 minutes run time on it. Not sure what we'll do with the old motor yet. No vacation at all for me this year. Wife and kids went on my father in-laws boat. He managed to hurt his knee so badly that I had to drive up and get him and he spent the last month living at my house. Then I had to drive back up when their boat wouldn't start for my wife to bring it home - wiring short. Then, in the middle of that, with my truck filled with boat-rebuild stuff a 'new' driver blew a stop sign and I broadsided him at 55. Totaled my truck and did a boatload (pardon the pun) of damage to all the bits and pieces in the bed - including the boat's electronics and radar display. Fuck. Fuck. Fuck.

 

So insurance replaced my truck. I'm wondering how much longer I'll have insurance....

 

The boat's naked. Spent the last 4 days pulling everything off the hull and deck. Wife's down there right now grinding the deck holes open to fill them while I sit here on the couch doing my best impression of a potato. We'll fill and sand, then take it in to paint it. She's the adventurous sort so she's opting for metallic flake paint. I'll be happy when it's late November and it's too cold to work outside. I'm going to try to forget this year ever happened.

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HB,

I'm quickly learning what it's like to own an old ('83) boat. Alternator doesn't work. Battery Charger doesn't work. The trickle charge of 1/2 amp by the solar panel is the only thing keeping the batteries topped off. Oh, and the autopilot won't hold a course.

Other than that, seems to be a great boat!

Did you make it over to IB's rz Saturday?

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Your Shannon is still a beauty though. The photos didn't do it justice. :)

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HB,

I'm quickly learning what it's like to own an old ('83) boat. Alternator doesn't work. Battery Charger doesn't work. The trickle charge of 1/2 amp by the solar panel is the only thing keeping the batteries topped off. Oh, and the autopilot won't hold a course.

Other than that, seems to be a great boat!

Did you make it over to IB's rz Saturday?

Let's hop that this is just part of the usual curve of bringing a new to you boat up to snuff. With our previous boat, that curve involved an engine rebuild etc. but once over the hump, it was a great, reliable boat, that took good care of us and did not ask for much in return.

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HB,

I'm quickly learning what it's like to own an old ('83) boat. Alternator doesn't work. Battery Charger doesn't work. The trickle charge of 1/2 amp by the solar panel is the only thing keeping the batteries topped off. Oh, and the autopilot won't hold a course.

Other than that, seems to be a great boat!

Did you make it over to IB's rz Saturday?

FC, No worries you will sort it all out. Pull the alternator and have it rebuilt. Unless the battery charger is relatively new I would not mess around with it and just replace with a brand new one. Obviously check for loose wires and fuses first.

 

If it makes you feel better my new to me boat (2001) had the starter quit on a cruise and I had to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. The was NOT FUN! Torched the screwdriver by the end of the cruise. But it turned out to just be a chaffed wire at a relay switch and screwdriver is a Craftsman so took it to Ace and got a brand new one for free. Double plus! :lol: Dude at hardware store was like you must have had fun with this one! :lol:

 

And my autopilot has not worked since the delivery home and I still have not been able to sort that one out. Maybe we should get together one evening and have an autopilot fix party over a few beers?

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Had and engine that wouldn't start on a Tomcat during a cross country...borrowed the Air Force Lineman's screwdriver. Used it to jump the solenoid. Engine started. Screwdriver was seriously screwed. Shoulda seen the look on the poor kids face when I gave him back the screwdriver. Jumped in the jet and got going before we could get charged by the Air Force...

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A very wise old Maintenance Master Chief took me out to one of the squadron jets right before my first Cross Country and taught me how to do that (amongst other assorted maintenance tricks) so that he wouldn't have to send a 3 man team half way across the country to fix a jet for something simple...2 years later I used that trick to get the jet going and get it home where it was way easier/cheaper to fix. Big plastic handle, thick soled flight deck boots, and don't touch the jet with your other hand while your doing it :blink:

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HB,

I'm quickly learning what it's like to own an old ('83) boat. Alternator doesn't work. Battery Charger doesn't work. The trickle charge of 1/2 amp by the solar panel is the only thing keeping the batteries topped off. Oh, and the autopilot won't hold a course.

Other than that, seems to be a great boat!

Did you make it over to IB's rz Saturday?

 

FC, If you haven't already done so, I 2nd HD's suggestion...take the alternator up to the Mennonites at Wenger's and let them take care of it and it will be done.

 

And, yes, i made it, with zero issues other than the autopilot being wired backwards from my recent maintenance and unusable (uh oh, I see a trend here!!) and Mrs. Bitches met me by car (with reinforcements & rz offerings, I had nothing but a 30-pack on board! :o:D). I took a few pics of your boat when we passed...I need to send them to you. I even brought the boat home Sunday single-handed with 20 knots of breeze..but it was 'mostly' downwind..except for Sandy pt. into Solomons.

 

I've since fixed the tiller pilot...I simply got the wires on the drive motor reversed, but had to take it all apart to swap them. red button = stbd and green button = port does not work so good..it is a compounding problem in "auto" mode...the tiller pilot reads the compass heading and keeps correcting the wrong way!! :huh:

 

We were planning a long weekend to San Domingo Creek this weekend, but we bailed after checking the weather forecast.. I am old (& maybe wise) enough now that I would rather not sit in a boat all weekend in foul weather gear, whether that is from 20 knots in the Bay in may face all day, or 20 knots in my face dinghying to shore. I can hang out in the garage and fuck off on the Internet instead! B)

 

Grrr..sorry about all the issues you have going on. What motor was in the boat before you got the Beta? If I recall correctly there are at least four variations in the C-30 over the years...Atomic 4, 5411, M-25, M-25xxx?? :wacko:

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I only use the screw driver trick the occasional time the state button on my diesel refuses to work. I do jar

have a dedicated starting screw driver which is referred to as "the other key".

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A very wise old Maintenance Master Chief took me out to one of the squadron jets right before my first Cross Country and taught me how to do that (amongst other assorted maintenance tricks) so that he wouldn't have to send a 3 man team half way across the country to fix a jet for something simple...2 years later I used that trick to get the jet going and get it home where it was way easier/cheaper to fix. Big plastic handle, thick soled flight deck boots, and don't touch the jet with your other hand while your doing it :blink:

Crash,

So, you had your RIO up there in the front seat lighting the igniters? I might have shown him where to hold the screw driver!

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Rubber mallets also can work wonders on solenoids that are stubborn.

Rubberised screwdriver handles combine two tools in one. Three if, for some odd reason, you actually use the screwdriver to drive a screw

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A very wise old Maintenance Master Chief took me out to one of the squadron jets right before my first Cross Country and taught me how to do that (amongst other assorted maintenance tricks) so that he wouldn't have to send a 3 man team half way across the country to fix a jet for something simple...2 years later I used that trick to get the jet going and get it home where it was way easier/cheaper to fix. Big plastic handle, thick soled flight deck boots, and don't touch the jet with your other hand while your doing it :blink:

Crash,

So, you had your RIO up there in the front seat lighting the igniters? I might have shown him where to hold the screw driver!

 

FC, I was the RIO...

 

What's the new (old) boat? We've moved from Norfolk to Southern California and are currently boatless (sob)...Say hi to your beautiful bride from me!

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Rubber mallets also can work wonders on solenoids that are stubborn.

Rubberised screwdriver handles combine two tools in one. Three if, for some odd reason, you actually use the screwdriver to drive a screw

 

:D

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A very wise old Maintenance Master Chief took me out to one of the squadron jets right before my first Cross Country and taught me how to do that (amongst other assorted maintenance tricks) so that he wouldn't have to send a 3 man team half way across the country to fix a jet for something simple...2 years later I used that trick to get the jet going and get it home where it was way easier/cheaper to fix. Big plastic handle, thick soled flight deck boots, and don't touch the jet with your other hand while your doing it :blink:

Crash,

So, you had your RIO up there in the front seat lighting the igniters? I might have shown him where to hold the screw driver!

 

FC, I was the RIO...

 

What's the new (old) boat? We've moved from Norfolk to Southern California and are currently boatless (sob)...Say hi to your beautiful bride from me!

 

Crash,

 

Oh... ok. I think I knew that.

 

Southern California.... very good. (Especially when you're a military family and claim another state as legal residence)

 

Boatless... very bad. (We tried that for 4 years. Didn't work out very well.) Three weeks ago we bought a 1983 Shannon 28. It's in very good condition (other than a few electrical problems) and is a very cool/salty little cruiser.

 

Jody says hi too. Best to you and your family.

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HB,

I'm quickly learning what it's like to own an old ('83) boat. Alternator doesn't work. Battery Charger doesn't work. The trickle charge of 1/2 amp by the solar panel is the only thing keeping the batteries topped off. Oh, and the autopilot won't hold a course.

Other than that, seems to be a great boat!

Did you make it over to IB's rz Saturday?

 

FC, If you haven't already done so, I 2nd HD's suggestion...take the alternator up to the Mennonites at Wenger's and let them take care of it and it will be done.

 

And, yes, i made it, with zero issues other than the autopilot being wired backwards from my recent maintenance and unusable (uh oh, I see a trend here!!) and Mrs. Bitches met me by car (with reinforcements & rz offerings, I had nothing but a 30-pack on board! :o:D). I took a few pics of your boat when we passed...I need to send them to you. I even brought the boat home Sunday single-handed with 20 knots of breeze..but it was 'mostly' downwind..except for Sandy pt. into Solomons.

 

I've since fixed the tiller pilot...I simply got the wires on the drive motor reversed, but had to take it all apart to swap them. red button = stbd and green button = port does not work so good..it is a compounding problem in "auto" mode...the tiller pilot reads the compass heading and keeps correcting the wrong way!! :huh:

 

We were planning a long weekend to San Domingo Creek this weekend, but we bailed after checking the weather forecast.. I am old (& maybe wise) enough now that I would rather not sit in a boat all weekend in foul weather gear, whether that is from 20 knots in the Bay in may face all day, or 20 knots in my face dinghying to shore. I can hang out in the garage and fuck off on the Internet instead! B)

 

Grrr..sorry about all the issues you have going on. What motor was in the boat before you got the Beta? If I recall correctly there are at least four variations in the C-30 over the years...Atomic 4, 5411, M-25, M-25xxx?? :wacko:

 

 

Yeah, we had the atomic diesel 11 horsepower. Loud and gutless. So the new motor will be a nice improvement. I'll take a picture of the boat tomorrow morning and post it. We're getting close to finishing the sanding for the paintjob.

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Grr...yeah that is the 5411 (almost identical to the M-15)...worst motor they ever put it in the fat-bottomed-girl C-30.

 

Pictures are always great. My old girl is not real cosmetically pleasing, but I am working on it.

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Grr...yeah that is the 5411 (almost identical to the M-15)...worst motor they ever put it in the fat-bottomed-girl C-30.

 

Pictures are always great. My old girl is not real cosmetically pleasing, but I am working on it.

 

Well... this will make you feel better on how yours looks. That's for sure.

 

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As you can see, we've filled the bow lights in with glass and filler. We're moving them up to the bow pulpit. Unfortunately, the bow pulpit was smashed by the previous owner and quotes in the Detroit area run about $1200 for a new one (holy CRAP). So... not sure what we're going to do to replace it yet. The green tape is how we mark spots to fill as we are going along grinding. It's at about 90% right now - my wife just put in a 12 hour day sanding and grinding.

 

Recipe:

80 grit the non-skid till it's flat.

220 grit the 'brightwork'.

Grind out all the holes you aren't refilling.

Hard filler.

Soft filler over the hard filler.

Sand.

Repeat ad nauseum =).

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Grrr...wow...I wish I could tear the boat apart to that level. But, I'd never get done. At least the stern cleats are intact! :unsure:

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Grrr...wow...I wish I could tear the boat apart to that level. But, I'd never get done. At least the stern cleats are intact! :unsure:

 

LOL. That's only because we needed a way to tie to the dock. We moved the boat into the paint shop today. Tomorrow comes the scaffolding, degreasing, and charcoaling the topsides. We have to pull the outboard mount and the swim ladder too now that we have it out of the water.

 

On another note, I was shocked. No blisters, no issues, 2 inches of 'smile' on one side of the front of the keel.

 

I think while we have the motor out we're going to cut the inner skin of the boat out under the sole to remove the plywood and replace it with straight glass. That's a common C30 failure point. Water migrates from the bilge down the keel bolts into the ply. In our case the previous owner screwed the bilge pump down and pierced the skin, so I'm certain the plywood is soaked if not rotten. I'll get some pictures of the process. Busy weekend - painting should be done by Tuesday. Metallic blue with metallic silver stripe, name, and MC numbers.

 

Believe me - this is a once in a lifetime process unless you're a masochist. Shit. I just finished doing this to my 7.9 2 years ago... just before my wife decided it was too small to comfortably cruise the family.

 

With regards to getting it done - I'd never finish if it was just me. My wife's an absolute beast at getting stuff done, my father just retired from working on boats and is helping, and my brother-in-law who does it professionally is watching over the whole deal to insure we don't make any mistakes. He'll be painting it too.

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Grrr...yes..I am familiar with all the bilge/keel/smile issues...I have not had to replace the mast post in the bilge yet, or the ply in the bilge. As a stop-gap, the first year I had the boat (2009), I added 3 pairs of lag bolts to help with the smile. So far, that has held up, but I know it is not a permanent repair.

 

For sure, you are doing it right...here are my 2008-09 keel repairs, since I also have the mild steel stud problem to deal with too some day. Incidentally, I can report that when I was at the boat today, the bilge was 100% dry..which I try to keep it that way...the fixed up windows have helped A LOT. I have not had to do any additional repairs to the keel. The pink was West System with low density filler, but there was lots of high density underneath prior to that jammed up in the gap,etc.etc. and the lag bolts torqued as tight as I could get with a breaker bar.

 

 

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Jesus, that's some job.

Now that your bilge is continually bone-dry, is there *any* hope at all, that you can wire-wheel those bolts and chase the threads and put new nuts on?

(I'm thinking that you'd use a nut splitter to destroy and remove the old nuts, and put new, stainless nuts on.)

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Ajax, You are exactly on the ball. I already have new SS nuts to put on there, I have a nut splitter, I have a die to re-cut the threads, blah blah blah. They've been sitting in my garage for years now, still in the paper bag I bought them in from my local hardware store.

 

I'd probably cut the nuts off with a dremel or something, as the nut splitter isn't big enough to get around those nuts. The nuts take something like a 13/16" or 7/8" wrench.

 

I hear that most experiences are when the crappy nuts are removed, the threads underneath are in great shape...so you just clean up the exposed stuff and put some new SS nuts on and off you go. I guess the corroding nuts keep the moisture and oxygen away from the threads underneath.

 

A buddy of mine out in CA, did some research and said that a 1/2" SS lag bolt was capable of holding something like 2,500 lbs in tension..In addition to the rusty studs, I have six, 10" long, 1/2" diameter lag bolts in a #4500 keel, so after I got that news, I stopped stressing out about it so much.

 

If/when I ever get around to cutting the plywood out of the bilge, I of course would add the SS nuts on the original studs.

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Just for giggles. Finished painting the hull. Got the shiny bits of the deck done, but haven't done the non-skid yet. Probably won't until next year. Have to do the keel sump and install the engine first. It's not a great picture - my camera sucks and the lighting is shadowed. But that's metallic flake paint.

 

In the shop before the name:

 

20151024_044415.jpg

 

 

 

Out of the shop:

20151101_163042.jpg

 

 

 

Here are the shiny bits:

20151101_162034.jpg

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Ok...your paint job trumps anything I'll ever do..nice.

 

Since this is sorta a C-30 thread, I did see a successful transom cutout of a C-30..and it was floating..I'll get my pic off the cell phone. Newer boat with the traveler on the cabin house..A waste of time for one like mine with the traveler on top of the rudder post.

 

edit - here ya go. Sorry the pic is even worse than your fleck paint pic.

post-4755-0-46798800-1446521922_thumb.jpg

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Ok...your paint job trumps anything I'll ever do..nice.

 

Since this is sorta a C-30 thread, I did see a successful transom cutout of a C-30..and it was floating..I'll get my pic off the cell phone. Newer boat with the traveler on the cabin house..A waste of time for one like mine with the traveler on top of the rudder post.

 

edit - here ya go. Sorry the pic is even worse than your fleck paint pic.

 

Team effort. I never would have attempted it by myself, so I'm not claiming responsibility for the results.

 

So that catalina must have gotten rid of the rear locker. I wonder though what happens in a big following sea? I suppose if there's no lip so water can flow straight out that would work without too many issues since we have a pretty high companionway.

 

It's funny. I've always considered a 30 footer as a small boat. Then I had to sand the entire thing.

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Ok...your paint job trumps anything I'll ever do..nice.

 

Since this is sorta a C-30 thread, I did see a successful transom cutout of a C-30..and it was floating..I'll get my pic off the cell phone. Newer boat with the traveler on the cabin house..A waste of time for one like mine with the traveler on top of the rudder post.

 

edit - here ya go. Sorry the pic is even worse than your fleck paint pic.

 

Team effort. I never would have attempted it by myself, so I'm not claiming responsibility for the results.

 

So that catalina must have gotten rid of the rear locker. I wonder though what happens in a big following sea? I suppose if there's no lip so water can flow straight out that would work without too many issues since we have a pretty high companionway.

 

It's funny. I've always considered a 30 footer as a small boat. Then I had to sand the entire thing.

 

 

Believe me, a 35-footer is twice as big.

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Grr..I understand...Just sanding the area around the windows was a lot.

 

I'll chat with the marina manager and see if I can get some better pics...although it is close to my Frostbite/Wednesday night ride, I just need to have the phone out and snap some pics as we go by..

 

Losing the lazarette would be a big issue..I store lots of crap in there.

 

i would also worry about a following sea...the scuppers on my boat at the back end of the cockpit are not that big, but big enough I would not expect the boat to sink or anything so maybe it is OK. I also wonder what is going on with the rudder post. I am not sure if you could cut it down to the cockpit sole and have enough leverage???

 

The other thing this guy did was build a fold down ladder that folds up to the stern pulpit height, which gets him about 6-8" lower than the stock C-30 fold down ladders that were already pretty low in their hinge point on the transom...but were a bit awkward.

 

I have a ladder I hang off the stock transom that is 7 steps I bought at the boat show a few years ago..I know it is nice to step up the transom and into the cockpit like all the sugar scoop cruisers these days, but I just don't know if this is worth the effort..the $400 ladder was way cheaper.

 

So...slightly off topic...PM me some details on your S2...there is a mild interest around here for one..we have two in the club already and someone randomly talking about maybe wanting to get one. Trailer??/etc.

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Grr..I understand...Just sanding the area around the windows was a lot.

 

I'll chat with the marina manager and see if I can get some better pics...although it is close to my Frostbite/Wednesday night ride, I just need to have the phone out and snap some pics as we go by..

 

Losing the lazarette would be a big issue..I store lots of crap in there.

 

i would also worry about a following sea...the scuppers on my boat at the back end of the cockpit are not that big, but big enough I would not expect the boat to sink or anything so maybe it is OK. I also wonder what is going on with the rudder post. I am not sure if you could cut it down to the cockpit sole and have enough leverage???

 

The other thing this guy did was build a fold down ladder that folds up to the stern pulpit height, which gets him about 6-8" lower than the stock C-30 fold down ladders that were already pretty low in their hinge point on the transom...but were a bit awkward.

 

I have a ladder I hang off the stock transom that is 7 steps I bought at the boat show a few years ago..I know it is nice to step up the transom and into the cockpit like all the sugar scoop cruisers these days, but I just don't know if this is worth the effort..the $400 ladder was way cheaper.

 

So...slightly off topic...PM me some details on your S2...there is a mild interest around here for one..we have two in the club already and someone randomly talking about maybe wanting to get one. Trailer??/etc.

 

 

I've been leaning toward adding a swim platform to the rear. I know just about every racer on the forum just let out a collective cry... but something like this would be really nice.

 

4443294_20130822121101190_1_XLARGE.jpg

 

I question the sanity of this particular owner. Why add a swim platform and then run your adjustable backstay down between the legs like that so it's a pain to access? Some people....

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My buddy's boat #355 does not have the platform, but has the backstay adjuster anchor smack in the middle like Maria and the split only 6' off the deck like Maria, and how mine was originally. When I replaced the standing rigging, I moved the split up to 12' (thanks Mauri Pro for trusting me, they were advertisers of this forum at the time, so I used them in 2010-2011 to build me new standing rigging and they built it perfectly to my spec) so it is easy to climb thru/over the stern pulpit now without scraping your head on the squeezer/triangle and assoicated hardware. Then, I set up my tackle for the squisher as a simple 2:1 using the Garhaurer C-30 set up and I've never needed any more on the C-30 telephone pole rig.

 

I have a bit of backstay on here, but notice how high the Garhauer squeezer still is since it starts at 12' off the deck. At anchor, it is up and out of the pic. And, check out Mrs. Bitches driving all happy and shit! B)

post-4755-0-80307800-1447388447_thumb.jpg

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bump.

 

I don't want to turn into Ajax and have my thread shut down. I went by the boat today but the water was over the dock with the 20+ SW wind. She was floating so that is good!

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Hell, I wrapped my boat up nice and cozy in it's plastic blanket and just finished screwing together the hockey rink walls in the back yard. Your boat should NOT be in the water :lol:

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Shit, the water is nearly 50F here on the Chesapeake. I could have gone sailing on Sunday if I wasn't such a nancy about the stiff breeze and re-winterizing the engine.

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The boat is still floating..the cockpit is still filled with snow and the Damp Rid and new solar fan are doing their job keeping mold at bay.

 

There was only 1" of water in the bilge, I squirted some Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes and turned it over by hand and everything is sound.

 

C'mon Spring!

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Amazing what happens in about 2 weeks.

The snow that fell into the cove melted and then froze solid into an impressive sheet of ice last week. I intended to sail yesterday but aborted when I realized I could safely walk around on the ice.

I'm bound up, only 200 yards from freedom where the water turns liquid again.

 

We've got 4 straight days of 50-60F degrees, so we'll see if the cove opens up by the weekend.

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I know that was last week Ajax...here we are again with several days of sub-freezing in the forecast, and I know you had a couple other issues that kept you from sailing..remember, it is February..this is the time on the East Coast to repair and get ready for the next season!

 

I did make it to the boat this weekend.. Except for some condensation on the cabin over my head when I went by the boat this past weekend, she is in simply splendid shape. 90% of the snow had melted on the boat, but there was still a bit in the cockpit.

 

I cannot fucking wait for spring to arrive! I should probably be sewing new cushions right now instead of screwing around on SA. :unsure:

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I was also going to work on cushions until I discovered the failed exhaust hot section.

 

I was down on the boat after work yesterday, and had only taken one turn on the tap to cut new threads for the manifold stud when my phone rang.

Daughter was stranded with a dead battery. I told her last *August* that her battery was EIGHT years old, and to replace it, and she's pissed off that it stranded her! Are you fuckin' kidding me?

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Ajax, get her a Weego as a "Welcome to the real world" present- teaches a lesson much better than "I told you so" and useful for lots of things.

 

https://myweego.com/

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