Hike, Bitches!

HB's 'new' boat thread

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Hello..is Spring here, yet? :wacko::rolleyes:

No. Not here.

 

Just because the cherry blossoms have come and gone and the dogwoods have bloomed doesn't mean spring is here.

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Hello..is Spring here, yet? :wacko::rolleyes:

No. Not here.

 

Just because the cherry blossoms have come and gone and the dogwoods have bloomed doesn't mean spring is here.

 

 

Mother nature is being a fickle witch this spring - I'm looking at seeing SNOW on my mountain in Winchester tomorrow!

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Spring or no spring, the mast is coming out on the 18th and going back in with new bits on the 26th so we can go sailing when winter turns immediately to stinking hot summer. It shall be so!

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Yes, 80 yesterday, sun this weekend, if not for a prior dinner plan we would be out overnight.

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Ugh...Nice Ajax. Snow forecast tomorrow afternoon for SMSA opening day!!!

 

Global Warming, my ass..

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I washed the boat today, while wearing shorts. It was warm and sunny and my boat is covered in green slime.

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Ish, we saw mini hail/frozen precip yesterday. but I did the same as you today in 45°F ..scrubbed all the green stuff off the interior teak. Better than mowing the lawn!

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Ish, we saw mini hail/frozen precip yesterday. but I did the same as you today in 45°F ..scrubbed all the green stuff off the interior teak. Better than mowing the lawn!

 

You have green stuff on your interior teak? That's a bad sign. Many mushrooms in the lockers?

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Ish, we saw mini hail/frozen precip yesterday. but I did the same as you today in 45°F ..scrubbed all the green stuff off the interior teak. Better than mowing the lawn!

 

I was pounding nails into dock boards in the "conversational snow" that we got in the Annapolis area.

Go home February, you're drunk!

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We've gotten over 40" of snow so far this April. Got about 18in over the weekend, though this is pretty typical spring weather up here :)

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Ish, yes, a little bit. It only shows up on the 1977 original teak which has not been urethaned. I have lotsa Damp-rid in the boat, and a 4" solar fan in the v-berth that actually sees sun all winter and runs 24/7. (my boat is moored on the North side of a 15' tall boat house, so most of it is in shade in the winter.) I think the mold growth happens about this time of year (March-ish) when the extreme temperature swings in spring from day to night allow condensation on the cabin liner inside the boat. Usually one afternoon of scrubbing per season is sufficient. I am working on getting all the interior teak re-finished. I have done all of the stuff I can remove from the boat and re-finish in the garage, now i gotta do that last pieces, which is the large structural main bulkhead and the stuff enclosing the head. They will probably be done in place, because I don't plan to remove them unless I need to replace them! :unsure:

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Ok, the engine runs, but the tach is not working. This is not a big deal but gives me an excuse to maybe do some gauge upgrades.

 

I am also making new cushions because Mrs. Bitches said she would not go cruising with me anymore with the 1977 plaid anymore. :rolleyes:

 

Here is cushion #1 that I am test fitting to see how my sail loft skillz are holding up after 20+ years with an office job. Of course, Mrs. B picked striped fabric, so I have fucking keep everything all lined up as I sew it too!

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Ok, the engine runs, but the tach is not working. This is not a big deal but gives me an excuse to maybe do some gauge upgrades.

 

I am also making new cushions because Mrs. Bitches said she would not go cruising with me anymore with the 1977 plaid anymore. :rolleyes:

 

Here is cushion #1 that I am test fitting to see how my sail loft skillz are holding up after 20+ years with an office job. Of course, Mrs. B picked striped fabric, so I have fucking keep everything all lined up as I sew it too!

 

Looks like you haven't lost the skillz, nicely done.

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Well done Bitches! You can take the sailmaker out of the loft but you cant take the sailmaker out of him.

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Note to self: Solid colors only.

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Note to self: Solid colors only.

 

That's stock advice from decorators - solid upholstery highlighted with patterned cushions or pillows.

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Sigh. The saga continues. We're trying to replace the main bulkheads (all 3). Catalina made the silly things bigger than a standard size piece of teak plywood. And the the prices of teak are crack prices. $140 for a 4'x8'x1/4" piece, and I need 3 1/2" pieces to get all the grains going the right way. Holy crap.

 

I can replace most of the smaller pieces because the local marina is in the process of chopping up an oyster (39'?) and we're stealing bits of teak from there. Unfortunately it's mostly 3/4". And according to all the local yards they can't get teak right now. Whoosh. So much for getting it done over the 3 day weekend.

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grr...yes...I think the port bulkhead is about 53" wide (without me actually measuring it!) The seam is to port of the chainplate under the window..(you can see I have another 1/2" piece of teak which I epoxied to the main bulkhead to sister it and give it some more strength.) I replaced the stbd bulkhead in 2014, but I have not replaced the port bulkhead for the reasons you mention. "Exotic Lumber" in Annapolis is where I got mine..they were $250/sheet for ONE-SIDED 1/2" teak years ago when I rebuilt the chart table. I had enough left over for the stbd bulkhead, and used a veneer on the part that shows forward outside of the hanging locker.

I just got the 2nd coat of polyurathane on the bulkheads this weekend..this pic is after the 1st coat.

 

So, I've owned this dumb boat for almost 8 years now, and the black iron hot section which I replaced way back in 2009, failed again..Got that all done, and got the motor running again today..I am up to 5 of the 6 main salon cushions/seatbacks done.

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Absolutely first rate. :)

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Ha...except for the wrinkles near the fiddle (probably from the slightly overstuffed foam), and the piping fading around the corner over the outboard outboard corner. I knew those compound angles along the hull shape outboard would be the bane of my existence. :rolleyes:, but I notice all the little details, and the outboard edge of piping will be covered when I get the seatback done. B)

 

This is probably the best (and latest) cushion. The first one I took apart again and re-did it after I'd sewn the 2nd one...I am improving as I go along. :)

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Whew. Got lucky, found the plywood, and redid both the major bulkheads on the port side. Thank god for my elderly father and my wife, who both did more work than I did.

 

I have to cut a couple more pieces of teak out to replace rotten shelves and a small starboard bulkhead. We actually stained the teak to match the original colors - dark red/brown. It looks pretty good. We'll probably go back and varnish everything in a year or two when all the other major projects are done.

 

We also decided to do away with the folding French door in the bathroom. That bathroom is already on the small side if you're a larger person, and changing in it is nearly impossible. We're going to go with a curtain instead. 20 pounds lighter, much better ventilation, and leaves a lot more room. And quieter when someone is trying to sleep in the V-berth.

 

Do you have any problems with slippery interior floors? Mine are like ice-skating. I'm not sure how to fix that one. I don't want to re-nonskid them (I still have to nonskid the deck!). I hate the look of adhesive non-skid.

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HB used a white, Rustoleum paint with a Rustoleum non-skid sand mixed in. Looks great, works great, was cheap.

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+1 what Ajax said...Rustoleum Topsides Gloss White paint (about $15/quart) plus the non-skid additive. It really brightens up the interior of the boat. The only issue is it is hard to clean compared to the slippery OEM floor. I've found you need to use a bristle brush and soap/water, and then let it head to the the bilge and clean out the soapy residue/pump bilge for best results.

 

I also recommend based on my experience that you apply two coats of paint (I used a foam roller)....apply coat #1 and then evenly/carefully sprinkle the non-skid additive onto the tacky paint (timing & placement here is critical related to keeping access to various parts of the floor and how well you can climb around the boat and stay off the floor!!) and then apply a second coat of paint a couple days later. Mixing the non-skid in with the paint did not produce consistent results for me although that is certainly an option. Sprinkle the non-skid sand double in the head & along the stbd side near the hanging locker (any C-30 owner will understand why you need to do this). :rolleyes:

 

The Rustoleum non-skid additive is not real aggressive, and nice under bare feet.

 

 

Ajax, time to update your signature, Commodore.. ;)

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Nope, I'm demoted to "Captain" Obvious.

 

I sold the Pearson yesterday to another fellow in my neighborhood, so they'll still be parked right next to each other.

The guy has prior sailing experience, having lived aboard an old, wooden ketch, sailing up and down New England with a feral cat onboard.

I didn't get as much as I wanted, but I made a quick sale and it was enough to completely pay for the Tartan.

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Nope, I'm demoted to "Captain" Obvious.

 

I sold the Pearson yesterday to another fellow in my neighborhood, so they'll still be parked right next to each other.

The guy has prior sailing experience, having lived aboard an old, wooden ketch, sailing up and down New England with a feral cat onboard.

I didn't get as much as I wanted, but I made a quick sale and it was enough to completely pay for the Tartan.

 

That's already a win. Well done!

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Nope, I'm demoted to "Captain" Obvious.

 

I sold the Pearson yesterday to another fellow in my neighborhood, so they'll still be parked right next to each other.

The guy has prior sailing experience, having lived aboard an old, wooden ketch, sailing up and down New England with a feral cat onboard.

I didn't get as much as I wanted, but I made a quick sale and it was enough to completely pay for the Tartan.

 

That's already a win. Well done!

 

+1. Congratulations on the quick transition.

 

When is the new name coming?

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Going sailing today. Maybe something of a name will pop out at me. We have a few ideas.

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Here ya go - new bulkhead on the left. It took forever to color match it to the wood on the right.

 

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This sort of thing makes me sad - this is the boat where we are stealing some the 3/4" teak. Gulf Star 39. We're probably going to steal the shelf here that is on top of the galley bulkhead and put new formica in it to match our boat, then hang it over the galley.

 

20160525_174830.jpg

 

Totally rotten deck and hull though.

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Wow...lots of work..your stuff is much darker than mine...nice work though. Is there any mechanical link between the compression post and the port bulkhead?? Also, interesting how your hanging locker drawers are reversed from mine..but makes sense..the hanging locker on my boat is not deep enough..so you get more depth aft, and probably better access to the chainplate without all the damn drawer bullshit in the way.

 

I hauling the good ship "T.A." on Wednesday for much needed bottom paint. Hope to get her back in the water in a week or so. B)

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There's no mechanical connection between the post and the bulkhead. Taking out the bulkhead was easy once we realized that you don't disassemble the post. Take the screws at the top and bottom out and then use a jack to remove the pressure from the desk and it comes right out.

 

Wow...lots of work..your stuff is much darker than mine...nice work though. Is there any mechanical link between the compression post and the port bulkhead?? Also, interesting how your hanging locker drawers are reversed from mine..but makes sense..the hanging locker on my boat is not deep enough..so you get more depth aft, and probably better access to the chainplate without all the damn drawer bullshit in the way.

 

I hauling the good ship "T.A." on Wednesday for much needed bottom paint. Hope to get her back in the water in a week or so. B)

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Paint. Splash on Wednesday..time to go do some damn sailing on my own 4KSB.

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Paint. Splash on Wednesday..time to go do some damn sailing on my own 4KSB.

 

 

Quick and dirty, I can relate. :)

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Ajax, I chatted with the yard foreman briefly, and I need to confirm with the yard queen tomorrow, but i did get the 'spots' sanded & painted this evening before all the storms and she is ready to launch.

 

Hopefully tomorrow.

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Boat splashed..I am going cruising this weekend, Bitches. That is all..(for now).

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Go The Bitches!!!

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Went cruising. Came home a day early because the forecast suxors for the 4th here in the mid-Atlantic. Everything on the boat worked great. B)

 

Check out my new chartplotter.

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iPad (This is my first iProduct) with iSailor running. Lifeproof case and RAM Mount on the companionway hatch handrail. Need to take a pic of the mount...much more impressive than the iProduct.. (can you tell I am an Android guy?) Got the iPad for free, so with all the accessories, I am up to a $200 chartplotter...but my $$ laptop is now no longer being drug down to the boat. This iPad does NOT have the cell chip (if I understand correctly, the iPads without a cell chip also don't have a GPS antenna), so I had to buy a Dual Bluetooth GPS 'puck' which works great hanging out on the chart table.

 

I am actually impressed with iSailor..recommended by Ajax and a few other SA people..it is easy to use, easy to create waypoints (and edit mid-route when you realize you don't need to give excessive room to a shoal), so it works great. The software is free, and you buy the charts..I think it was about $10 for the Chesapeake Bay.

 

Might need to update my sig since I am doing 5.6k in my 4KSB... :rolleyes:

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Nothing is "free." You got off light for $200.

 

I'm into it for a free iPad, the puck, and now a GX2200 vhf/ais/gps for $270 or so. Next will be the DMK box for nearly $500 so I can have AIS and ditch the puck. :rolleyes:

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Ajax, I will be interested to hear about your real AIS plan. I am using the mAIS apps, but I have to remember to turn it on, it burns battery on the phone so I have to plug the phone in now too, and it needs a cell connection to send position reports to marinetraffic.com, which I realize is not real AIS, but it did help yesterday when a ship was coming down the Bay at 12.9 knots and I could easily adjust my position to slide behind him as I crossed the Bay between Taylors Island and Cove Point.

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I have a new head pump coming tomorrow from Defender..yay! (not..) :rolleyes:

 

This will update my Jabsco to the newer twist-lock style. It was only a few $$ more than rebuilding my existing pump (now ~8 seasons old I think) and I can just bolt the whole thing on and not fuss around with little parts.

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Fun with heads!

 

Just remember working on the head is always better than "being in the heads" when hitting a reef in the middle of the Indian ocean! LOL

 

Good call updating the pump to the newer version.

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Quick update - topsides paintwork is all done and we've been doing reinstall and teak work for the last month or so. Just finished changing all the cabin lights over to LED - we're using a dual-light fixture for an RV. One side will be white, the other side of the fixture red leds.

 

Here's a picture of topsides before and after.

 

 

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Huge kudos to my wife - who now knows how to find this thread on sailing anarchy. She did most all the work on the deck. I did get to teach her how to do wiring, and explain why you don't wire LED lights backwards. Not that she did.... but she didn't know it was a bad thing.

 

Next up - mahoganey rub rails. My brother-in-law and wife already cut them, my son and his grandfather scarved them into single pieces that are almost 30' long, and now we get to install and paint them. It's a true 'family' boat.

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Grrrr...coming along nicely..I see you have upgraded to the Lewmar ports up forward..a minimal amount of grinding for a much better port. I would also recommend getting away from the wire lifelines and go to dyneema.

 

Not the best pic, but recent with dyneema life lines using CSJohnson hardware..this pic was really about keeping the sun out of the cockpit in 95°F heat this weekend.

 

Your work is top notch work, dude.

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Thanks man. I love the dodger. I'm going to have to save that picture.

 

I'm convinced my brother-in-law is Satan. Since he redoes boats for a living, every time I say I want something he whips it out. I'm now the proud owner of a stainless propane stove out of the gulfstar I mentioned earlier, a B&G Hydra processor with full function displays, a refrigeration system, stainless steel dingy davits, and god only knows what else. He's not giving them to me for free, but I know I want them eventually and he's offering them for obscene prices - the davits he sold me for $200. I can't say no - but I don't even own the dinghy yet.

 

I don't know why my previous image host deleted those pictures. I'll let you try to figure out what's going on in this one.

 

4d13c6f6de.jpg

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New bitch of the day - the gasket material that catalina direct sells does NOT directly replace the original catalina 30 gaskets. It's double the thickness. Cutting it in half is a bitch.

 

If i ever had to do it again I'd probably get some port gasket material. You need it to be right around .5" in diameter. I couldn't find any at the time in that size and I had already bought catalina's assuming it was the right stuff.

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I have a new head pump coming tomorrow from Defender..yay! (not..) :rolleyes:

 

This will update my Jabsco to the newer twist-lock style. It was only a few $$ more than rebuilding my existing pump (now ~8 seasons old I think) and I can just bolt the whole thing on and not fuss around with little parts.

 

Speaking of - I had to repair my holding tank (it had cracked) a while ago. Yesterday when I got on the boat, it smelled like... well.... you know.

 

Same smell today, but worse. I don't have time for this crap (ha-ha-ha).

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Is that a Festool sander? Nice kit!

Brother in law's sander. He has all the high tech stuff.

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GRR..Puttin' me to shame..but carry on..I am getting inspired.

 

We took the ol' girl on the one "race" we do each year this past weekend. We were 2nd fleet to our Wednesday night ride, Easy Button...and we beat a J/111. B)

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You know, I find it funny that when I was a kid I'd look at a boat like this and shake my head. Yeah, sure, it's a 4ktsb. It always will be. But the idea of spending time with your family on that 4ktsb just feels better and better as you get older. It's that old saying about enjoying the trip rather than the destination.

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Yep...there are a few things about my boat that trip that trigger..but in my case when I was a kid this was my family's boat. I can't even count the miles/hours, but as an adult I am learning it was a lot..so, for that I am grateful, even if my family was a little screwed up..Boat life was always normal in our 4KSB.

 

Every upgrade I've made also helps me enjoy some things I did not like to endure as a kid. And otherwise, my wife and kid (now 25) would never get the experience I did growing up. As weird and elusive and selfish as my father is, the one great gift he's "given" me is this 4KSB, so, like you, I keep working on it.

 

We might go sailing tomorrow!!

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Well, we've got the wooden rail painted and the stainless rail on the boat.

 

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Originally I had planned on buying new solid stainless rails. Then I saw the prices! $330 / 12 ft? Holy poop. We got lucky - we cut them off a junk boat in the yard, polished them up, and put them on. I'm sanding one for the starboard side and we'll polish and install that tomorrow. It had some fair nasty scratches. All in all though, I can live with a couple scratches that you can't even see after polishing - especially for the low low price of not having to cough up $1500!

 

I'm seriously considering going with dyneema for the life lines. The cost and weight savings will be significant. Especially since I can do my own splices on it and not have to pay a rigger. They are good, but damn... $$$$$.

 

I'm also seriously considering having some 3D printing done. I want plastic caps that will fit over the nuts on the inside of the boat. It's both a safety and an asthetic thing. But I can only find the damn things on the market in metric:

 

http://www.plasticplugsandcaps.com/nut-and-bolt-protection-caps-1.html

 

I just want them for standard sized nuts - #8, #10, 1/4-20, etc. You'd think something like that would be easy to find.

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Just use polished S/S acorn nuts - they look great IMO, better than some sort of IKEA snap on plastic cover.

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Just use polished S/S acorn nuts - they look great IMO, better than some sort of IKEA snap on plastic cover.

 

Believe it or not - I plan on racing this thing competitively. I found the secret to that back when we were racing my dad's old boat. Lighten everything as you go, and it ends up being a whole lot of weight. It might just offset all the cruising additions we're making. It's going to be a chore fitting some of this stuff inside the boat though (air conditioner, etc) because I'm not putting it all in the stern locker and making her ass heavy.

 

The engine we're putting in is twice the horsepower and almost 50 pounds lighter, for instance. The new head the previous owner had installed was also lighter than the original.

 

Hey HB - do you have an adjustable backstay?

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Thanks - but the smallest they have is for 1/4" and the majority of my hardware is #10 - plus I'd much prefer white over black.

 

Maybe I can get some folks to do a group buy - minimum quantities are a bitch:

 

http://us.essentracomponents.com/en-US/caps-plugs/plastic-nut-bolt-screw-cover-caps/bolt-caps/bolt-protection-caps/bolt-protection-caps-us-p050155

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It is nice to see my thread carrying on with another C-30 owner. Grr..is much more dedicated than me. I did visit the boat today in anticipation of Hermine passing thru. If she goes by quickly, we could be out on the boat on Sunday!! B)

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Just use polished S/S acorn nuts - they look great IMO, better than some sort of IKEA snap on plastic cover.

 

 

Hey HB - do you have an adjustable backstay?

 

Grrr...yes. I moved the split up from 6' to 12' feet when I replaced all the standing rigging..Mostly, because I am "med moored" so i climb off and on via the transom and kept scraping my head. It is still split, but up a lot higher so the transition is less dramatic than a normal shorter squeezy style backstay. On the T-3000, we eliminated the squeezy and added multi-part purchases for I think a final 32:1, which worked great. For my boat, the squeezy is fine for getting some headstay tension in a blow. Oh, I even have a pic of that. The hardware is Garhaurer.

 

Bitches... can you post a pic or link to the RAM mount you went with?

Slick - I ended up piece mealing the parts thru mostly Amazon. the mount is on the boat..i'll try to remember a pic so you can see the individual parts.

 

RAM makes a specific cradle for the iPad LifeProof case, and I screwed on their 'standard' 1" ball to that. Then I attached that to one of their 'arms' that accepted the 1" ball and it has a small clamp on the other end.

 

The clamp and articulating arm do not have enough friction to hold the iPad in its case in midair (probably double the weight with the case) attached to a stainless handrail without slipping down. It does better on the vertically mounted hand rails inside the companionway where it can rest on the companionway and sorta be propped up. I have had pretty good success also mounting it to the teak handrails down below..this exposes it to less sunlight and I can keep the brightness somewhere below 100%..this is my current preferred configuration..I can see it with an easy head poke thru the companionway. Again, I'll try to remember some pics.

 

Here is the clamp that their standard 1" ball fits into on one end - https://amzn.com/B00LFNC1FS

Here is the cradle I bought..it has "AMP" standard hole pattern that the 1" ball and lots of their other stuff conforms too: https://amzn.com/B00DUU2MLM

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Thanks HB... looking forward to the pictures. I just bought a Vulcan 5 and now I'm trying to figure out how and where I want mount it. If I put it at the nav station, such that it is on a 30 footer, then I might use it to push to a tablet and mount the tablet via a removable mount like yours, or, mount the Vulcan at the companionway with one of the more robust fixed swing arm type mounts. Leaning towards the latter, but the tablet has a bigger screen and supposedly I can control the Vulcan through the tablet via an app. Which is pretty cool if it works as advertised.

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Slick, This clamp likes to stick to wood and stays still better than clamped to SS, that is for sure. On SS, it slides down from the leverage created by the weight of the cradle/LifeProof case/iPad

 

I've also found the mounting it down below allows me to not keep the backlight at 100% and also the chart table with 12v sockets is directly below, so I am not running a charge cable across the boat.

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Slick, This clamp likes to stick to wood and stay still better than SS, that is for sure. On SS, it slides down from the leverage created by the weight of the cradle/LifeProof case/iPad

 

I've also found the mounting it down below allows me to keep the backlight at not 100% and also the chart table is directly below, so I am not running a charge cable across the boat.

 

This is in storage mode..When I add the iPad, I move it up and aft to face the companionway.

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Slick, This clamp likes to stick to wood and stay still better than SS, that is for sure. On SS, it slides down from the leverage created by the weight of the cradle/LifeProof case/iPad

 

I've also found the mounting it down below allows me to keep the backlight at not 100% and also the chart table is directly below, so I am not running a charge cable across the boat.

 

This is in storage mode..When I add the iPad, I move it up and aft to face the companionway.

 

Damn I'm jealous of your interior wood work and the paint.

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Grrrr..it just takes time and that is not a fair representation of the boat. It seems you are focusing on the outside, and I have been working on the inside. Every piece of exterior boat I touch leaves a powder on my gear/shorts/clothes, and I wish it didn't. One thing at a time.

 

That bulkhead in the first pic in the background that I repaired with epoxy in 2009 lasted for several years but I finally I replaced in 2014 as it was hopelessly failing..the replacement one-sided teak 4x8 sheet was $250(!!). To save $$ I bought a sticky 1/16" veneer for the exposed sides on the forward side that wasn't hidden by the hanging locker.

 

Here are some more pics of that procedure...I have one somewhere of nothing from the bow to the nav station.

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here is a pic of the front side....with veneer above the hanging locker shelf and jockstrap anchored down to the settee. The SS angle I added holds the load and is bolted thru the settee. On the port side, I bumped up the SS angle to be both thicker and wider, however, even this modest piece seems to be holding up fine on the stbd side. The distortion in the cable in the 2nd pic is the camera angle I think..it is not there in reality. There are nylon stop nuts & washers on the bottom of the piece of SS and also a ring ding just in case things move around as a safety.

 

When I was a kid, the boat creaked a lot and little pieces of teak were always flying around the bottom of the boat near the main bulkheads..I finally learned why when I peered behind the hanging locker. The jockstrap installation has eliminated the pieces of flying teak, and all of the creaking and shifting.

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Ok, the Catalina 30 was in production for a very long time and sold huge numbers. Did the factory ever fix this issue on their own? Did they add jockstraps at the factory or address the root cause somehow?

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Not that I know of. I borrowed some of the ideas from the Olson 30 and Evelyn 32 crowd.

 

Now, keep in mind that if the chainplates were sealed and water didn't rot the main bulkheads, everything should have been OK. My bulkheads have/had a lot of water damage. I am hoping that the main bulkhead to port has enough spread under the deck plus the jock strap to keep everything sound, and I've also sistered another 1/2" piece of teak with epoxy where the port chainplate is, and throughbolted everything . I decided to replace the stbd bulkhead since it was a little easier task.

 

There was a "fix" for the lowers, with additional and larger bracing, and beefier angle under the deck, which I have installed partially (85%). I haven't put the bolts & angle thru the deck yet that anchor the v-berth bulkhead..Maybe after I paint the deck...that part of my boat isn't moving and the sheet metal screws are holding.

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Ya know how to ruin a weekend? Pull a fractured poop tank out of the boat for a second time. Stupid thing. Threw it in the dumpster. Got a new one through Ronco using our distributorship for $200 shipped.

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Grrr..I had a custom tank built by Triple M Plastics in Maine..their main business seems to be building various poly tanks for fire trucks = my Triple M tank does not leak. I have had a holding tank fail in a boat....not a pretty site, and not something I ever plan on happening again. I have had two different tanks for two different boats built for me by Triple M.. highly recommended.

 

The real key is to not have a fixture at the bottom of the tank. I am not sure what you call it, but both tanks have a "pick-up tube" for extraction and all fittings are on the top of the tank. They built each to my specs and they have performed great.

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Thanks bitches. I've got a couple avenues if this one breaks - I'll keep yours in mind too. We have a local shop that does stainless tanks and I was considering doing a group buy with the maintenance shop at the marina, but the price on the double-thick tank from ronco was untouchable.

 

Also - we found out the hard way that the new paint isn't as durable as gelcoat. The spot where the dock lines rub on the corners quickly wear through. We're putting strips of the stainless rub rail in front of each docking cleat to stop the chafing.

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Yeah...gel coat still lasts longer than paint, even the two part epoxy kind, which I am impressed with its durability.

 

So, this holding tank is in the bow..the typical holding tank in a C-30 is port settee.. (17 gals) and the bow tank usually is water and gravity feeds to the stbd settee (17 gal) water tank. I put the holding tank in the bow, and made the two settee tanks water. Partially because the water tanks always start full and the bow tank always starts empty in the configuration I have for better sailing/performance. I am losing out on about 7 gals. of fresh water capacity, but we also do not have refrigeration, so we are coming into port for ice and provisions (beer!) before the water tanks are empty and before the holding tank is full.

 

BTW - I never posted any new cushion pics. A few weeks ago, I ripped the head out for pump rebuild and cleaning up the head area, so ignore the head in the saloon, but it does show some cushions.. :rolleyes:

 

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Hope you gave that port settee tank a good scrubbing.

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Hope you gave that port settee tank a good scrubbing.

 

It's an acquired taste. What the French call a frisson. A bit of je ne sais quoi? You need a screen to make sure the corn doesn't make it through the faucet.

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Thanks bitches. I've got a couple avenues if this one breaks - I'll keep yours in mind too. We have a local shop that does stainless tanks and I was considering doing a group buy with the maintenance shop at the marina, but the price on the double-thick tank from ronco was untouchable.

 

Also - we found out the hard way that the new paint isn't as durable as gelcoat. The spot where the dock lines rub on the corners quickly wear through. We're putting strips of the stainless rub rail in front of each docking cleat to stop the chafing.

You can also call up RONCO Plastics. (No connection to Ron Popeil) They have a large number of patterns for tanks. They were very helpful and a pleasure to deal with when I ordered my holding tank form them

 

They will position fittings to your specs and will bump up the wall thickness if you tell them you are ordering a holding tank.

 

http://ronco-plastics.net/

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I used info on Ronco's site for some of my tanks since they made all the tanks for Catalina as far as I know.

 

Unfortunately for all you weirdos, the port tank was always a fresh install and never had black water in it. Does that mean I never posted the pics of pulling 50% of the motor out to jam that bitch in there from like 2012?

 

This install turned into a blessing in disguise..I discovered a manifold stud leak, which explained why I was losing antifreeze after my FWC conversion..I pulled the manifold to get the water tank in, and then repaired the stud issue and put the motor back together after the fresh water tank went in.

 

Ish, you must have hung out with the French more than I did...but that was back in like 1998 when I was there, so who knows???

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Wow, Mrs. Bitches must *really* like her fresh water for you to dismantle the engine to install more capacity.

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Hmmmm. How easily does that cabinet to the port of the engine bay come out? It will probably make the new motor install much easier.

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Grr..The galley to port comes out with removal of several sheet metal screws...it does come out. There is a seam that runs between the sinks and the stove. A lot of rigidity comes from the fiddles..once you remove those things move around a bit..There are cleats on inside of the cabinet, (like under the sink), that like to hide screws holding the cabinet to the port settee, and a few more screws jamming up the assembly in the bulkhead between the aft and middle window...the structure here varies based on hull number..my buddy Spence's hull #355 is a little different than my #511.

 

I've fully removed all the teak furniture in the boat from the ice box forward, at least once..except the main port bulkhead & compression post. That is a jack up the deck and sawzall job on my boat. I can't get the screws in the compression post to move with regular screwdrivers and stuff.

 

I might have some more pics from back in the day...let me know what areas you are looking for more detail.

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If you have panels that will come out occasionally then using nut-serts and machine screws works very well. Screwing self tappers (sheet metal screws) in and out several times will usually strip out what they are screwed in to.

 

There is a type that has a machine thread in the hole and a lag type thread on the outside for placing it - they are used in some types of furniture - work great.

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