Hike, Bitches!

HB's 'new' boat thread

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thanks for the tips..i think I'll try the nut buster. it can't hurt, because I can't seem to remove the nuts with a chisel..on one hand I am glad they didn't break apart with the chisel, but I kinda wished they had and it would provoke more of a straightforward repair process.

 

Something else I didn't think to post about but found recently was a busted bulkhead...there are a couple of bolts under the hanging locker that hold that bulkhead to the hull..the wooden bulkhead has ripped out of those bolts, but I found some guys on the C30 yahoo group that are basically making a small shroud to connect the chainplate to the bolts in the hull tying everything back together. It reminds me of a screen door support to keep the door square (obviously a little more robust). I even found a supplier for stainless 'angle' in 2' lengths..I figure I only need about 12" so I wonder if I can chop that in half, secure it to the bolts in the hull and build my mini shroud to support the chainplate. I don't know much about manipulating stainless in that matter..I'd be hacking at with a jig saw I guess to get it the correct length..24" is the shortest i've found it so far. How do you cut stainless angle in the garage...with a hack saw?:unsure:

 

OK..so here's the latest update on this and other stuff.

 

Keel

Nut Buster - on order. I found a Taiwan company that advertised 1 1/8" nut busters...I asked for a quote and I got back "$13.80/set in minimum qty of 360 units"!!! - oops...wholesale! <_< - Then I found the JC Whitney one for $11.99. I used to buy ricer gear for my '78 Civic from these guys when I was a kid :P

 

thread restorer kit - on order - I think I got the Kastar made Craftsman line from Sears..lotsa sizes, reasonable price..I can see lots of places to use that..never had one.

 

Bulkhead

With further research I found, onlinemetals.com that will cut 12" pieces of stainless, and they sell 316 SS angle for about $12/ft. The 'shroud' to tie the points together will cost more than that to fabricate. The other company (2' lengths) only sold 304 stainless..probably OK for inside the boat, but if you can source 316, why not get it?

 

Holding tank

Need to find out more info on a C30 holding tank..I do not like the 'stock' setups..The custom tank I had built for the Tartan from TripleM plastics was awesome..I need to get the dimensions and have them build me another tank.

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thanks for the tips..i think I'll try the nut buster. it can't hurt, because I can't seem to remove the nuts with a chisel..on one hand I am glad they didn't break apart with the chisel, but I kinda wished they had and it would provoke more of a straightforward repair process.

 

Something else I didn't think to post about but found recently was a busted bulkhead...there are a couple of bolts under the hanging locker that hold that bulkhead to the hull..the wooden bulkhead has ripped out of those bolts, but I found some guys on the C30 yahoo group that are basically making a small shroud to connect the chainplate to the bolts in the hull tying everything back together. It reminds me of a screen door support to keep the door square (obviously a little more robust). I even found a supplier for stainless 'angle' in 2' lengths..I figure I only need about 12" so I wonder if I can chop that in half, secure it to the bolts in the hull and build my mini shroud to support the chainplate. I don't know much about manipulating stainless in that matter..I'd be hacking at with a jig saw I guess to get it the correct length..24" is the shortest i've found it so far. How do you cut stainless angle in the garage...with a hack saw?:unsure:

 

OK..so here's the latest update on this and other stuff.

 

Keel

Nut Buster - on order. I found a Taiwan company that advertised 1 1/8" nut busters...I asked for a quote and I got back "$13.80/set in minimum qty of 360 units"!!! - oops...wholesale! <_< - Then I found the JC Whitney one for $11.99. I used to buy ricer gear for my '78 Civic from these guys when I was a kid :P

 

thread restorer kit - on order - I think I got the Kastar made Craftsman line from Sears..lotsa sizes, reasonable price..I can see lots of places to use that..never had one.

 

Bulkhead

With further research I found, onlinemetals.com that will cut 12" pieces of stainless, and they sell 316 SS angle for about $12/ft. The 'shroud' to tie the points together will cost more than that to fabricate. The other company (2' lengths) only sold 304 stainless..probably OK for inside the boat, but if you can source 316, why not get it?

 

Holding tank

Need to find out more info on a C30 holding tank..I do not like the 'stock' setups..The custom tank I had built for the Tartan from TripleM plastics was awesome..I need to get the dimensions and have them build me another tank.

 

Yum! Holding tanks again. You'll be a pottie pro soon.......

 

IB

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To expound on my quick comments from earlier about this great community....

 

The mechanical fuel pump in Post #201 showed up on my doorstep today via UPS from stickboy.

 

Thanks, stickboy...I appreciate it. :)

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To expound on my quick comments from earlier about this great community....

 

The mechanical fuel pump in Post #201 showed up on my doorstep today via UPS from stickboy.

 

Thanks, stickboy...I appreciate it. :)

 

Be careful. All your other mechanical components are going to be jealous and go on strike.

 

Great job StickBoy!

 

IB

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To expound on my quick comments from earlier about this great community....

 

The mechanical fuel pump in Post #201 showed up on my doorstep today via UPS from stickboy.

 

Thanks, stickboy...I appreciate it. :)

 

Be careful. All your other mechanical components are going to be jealous and go on strike.

 

Great job StickBoy!

 

IB

Sympathetic new part envy?

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To expound on my quick comments from earlier about this great community....

 

The mechanical fuel pump in Post #201 showed up on my doorstep today via UPS from stickboy.

 

Thanks, stickboy...I appreciate it. :)

 

Be careful. All your other mechanical components are going to be jealous and go on strike.

 

Great job StickBoy!

 

IB

 

Stickboy's other half says YAY!!! Another "spare part" we were not going to use goes to good use!!!

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OK, so here goes my little brain working overtime again :wacko:

 

The Tartan had the holding tank in the v-berth....what about putting the new one up there and making it bigger than 17gals, which is apparently the stock-under-port-settee-Ronco size. I am going to have problems running the hoses out of the top of the tank if I put a tank under the settee. I kinda want to put another water tank over there anyway to balance the 24 gals. of fresh water on the stbd side.

 

The ONLY reason I can see to have it on the port side under the settee is that the thru-hull is over there..it just means I would need to buy more hose I guess. If I didn't think I'd ever need it, I'd glass in the thru-hull since we always use the tank.

 

Apparently some Catalina 30's added fresh water with a v-berth tank..that makes NO sense to me. I guess they did that because the holding tank's stock location was already on the port side, and the orig. 24 gal water was on the stbd side and too small. Since this boat never had a holding tank as standard equipment, nor the extra water tank, I will need to fabricate it anyway, might as well put the holding tank in the v-berth where 90% of the time it will be empty, and put the water in the middle of the boat, which will generally be full.

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OK, so here goes my little brain working overtime again :wacko:

 

The Tartan had the holding tank in the v-berth....what about putting the new one up there and making it bigger than 17gals, which is apparently the stock-under-port-settee-Ronco size. I am going to have problems running the hoses out of the top of the tank if I put a tank under the settee. I kinda want to put another water tank over there anyway to balance the 24 gals. of fresh water on the stbd side.

 

The ONLY reason I can see to have it on the port side under the settee is that the thru-hull is over there..it just means I would need to buy more hose I guess. If I didn't think I'd ever need it, I'd glass in the thru-hull since we always use the tank.

 

Apparently some Catalina 30's added fresh water with a v-berth tank..that makes NO sense to me. I guess they did that because the holding tank's stock location was already on the port side, and the orig. 24 gal water was on the stbd side and too small. Since this boat never had a holding tank as standard equipment, nor the extra water tank, I will need to fabricate it anyway, might as well put the holding tank in the v-berth where 90% of the time it will be empty, and put the water in the middle of the boat, which will generally be full.

 

 

Makes sense, but "always" have a way to pump out manually unless you are prepared to sail a day to a pump out facility from some distant place on the eastern shore. Murphy says you'll find yourself with a full holding tank and no pump out station someday. I don't advocate pumping into the Bay, but.....

 

Watch your hose length. You need to pump enough on each flush to clear the hose. More hose equals more water per flush equals less flushes per galon of tank capacity.

 

IB

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Right...Peggy the Headmistress says about 6' if we can swing it. The way the boat is configured now, if I go with this plan, the potty will be in the middle, so hose to the thru-hull one way and hose to the tank the other when they come out of the "Y" valve. That should keep the runs fairly short. The longest run right now is going to be the tank to deck fitting.

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To expound on my quick comments from earlier about this great community....

 

The mechanical fuel pump in Post #201 showed up on my doorstep today via UPS from stickboy.

 

Thanks, stickboy...I appreciate it. :)

 

Glad it found a happy home. It was lonley under the quarterberth with the coils and the distributor parts and plugs, it really needed to be close to an engine.

 

Of course, it came with the boat so I have no idea why it was originally replaced........ :unsure:

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I started taking it apart last night to check the diaphragm and internals, and then introduced it to the thermostat housing, carb and water pump...they seem to be getting along OK. The old fuel pump was a little jealous, but it will get over it.

 

I am thinking about giving it a renewed lease on life and sending my old dead piece in as a core to Don Moyer so he can rebuild it for someone else. He manufactures his own top sections and sediment bowls anyway, which are the parts that have failed on my old one.

 

stickboy....I hear you guys got the nasty end of that storm that blew up the East Coast yesterday...all we got was cold rain here...stay safe!!

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I started taking it apart last night to check the diaphragm and internals, and then introduced it to the thermostat housing, carb and water pump...they seem to be getting along OK. The old fuel pump was a little jealous, but it will get over it.

 

I am thinking about giving it a renewed lease on life and sending my old dead piece in as a core to Don Moyer so he can rebuild it for someone else. He manufactures his own top sections and sediment bowls anyway, which are the parts that have failed on my old one.

 

stickboy....I hear you guys got the nasty end of that storm that blew up the East Coast yesterday...all we got was cold rain here...stay safe!!

 

yea, it's kinda ugly right now. C Koch is getting lots of radio and TV airtime telling everyone that their power is out. I came to work to get coffee and a shower, had to duck a few hanging trees but 4WD with studded snows on the Tacoma I get around OK. I think I'll take home a UPS so we can at least get online tonight.

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Why chop off the nipple? Drive a wooden plug in from the outside, cut it off flush, and use that as a place to center the drill bit on the hole saw. Take everything out at once.

Ish...this was a great idea. I finally got a chance to use it, and this is what i did...sorta. First, I removed the nipples with vice grips...once I got them loose, they twisted out pretty easily. The 1/2" hole is perfect for the new marelon thru hull, so I just need to sand the old glass down (the laminate they had going up the nipple) flush to accept my backing plate flush against the hull.

 

I drove a plug in the larger hole and used it as a guide...worked great! As with the other hole, now I just need to clean up the inside of the hull to allow a wood block to go flush with the hull.

 

Moving along but slowly. My re-threader kit is too small (the bolts are larger than 5/8"), and the nut buster is not the size advertised I can only fit it over nuts that have had some material removed...need to return these f$%*#ers and get larger kits. I think I've decided I am simply going to screw in some lag bolts and be done with the keel. I beat on the nuts with cold chisels and once the bad material is removed, they are solid underneath. I can't get a socket on them, but the lag bolts seem a common repair that works, so I'll go with that, to aide the existing bolts, and hold that big lead thingie attached to the boat.

 

Cold and 40 degs here today...glad I took the afternoon off and worked on the boat yesterday! B)

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Why chop off the nipple? Drive a wooden plug in from the outside, cut it off flush, and use that as a place to center the drill bit on the hole saw. Take everything out at once.

Ish...this was a great idea. I finally got a chance to use it, and this is what i did...sorta. First, I removed the nipples with vice grips...once I got them loose, they twisted out pretty easily. The 1/2" hole is perfect for the new marelon thru hull, so I just need to sand the old glass down (the laminate they had going up the nipple) flush to accept my backing plate flush against the hull.

 

I drove a plug in the larger hole and used it as a guide...worked great! As with the other hole, now I just need to clean up the inside of the hull to allow a wood block to go flush with the hull.

 

Moving along but slowly. My re-threader kit is too small (the bolts are larger than 5/8"), and the nut buster is not the size advertised I can only fit it over nuts that have had some material removed...need to return these f$%*#ers and get larger kits. I think I've decided I am simply going to screw in some lag bolts and be done with the keel. I beat on the nuts with cold chisels and once the bad material is removed, they are solid underneath. I can't get a socket on them, but the lag bolts seem a common repair that works, so I'll go with that, to aide the existing bolts, and hold that big lead thingie attached to the boat.

 

Cold and 40 degs here today...glad I took the afternoon off and worked on the boat yesterday! B)

 

 

Hiker,

There is a cutoff tool we use in aviation called a highspeed. It is an angled (or straight) airtool that takes a mandrel with a fiber disk on it we use to cut sheetmetal for making "custom" replacement parts. If you go to www.yardstore.com it looks like a dremel mandrel on steriods and should chuck up into a drill or maybe one of those flexible extension things that go into a drill for off off angle hole drilling. I'll try to find you a link. Seems like I saw one at walmart make by campbell hausfeld. Admittedly a high quality one from the yardstore will set you back a few bucks but I use the shit out of mine. Mac tools makes one too. Just a thought... The wheels are about 2 1/2 in diameter. I'm thinking if you cut an "X" on the nut sides then whack it with a blunt chisel the nut will crack. Then you can get a small wire brush and clean 'er up. The lag bolts will work just fine but it would give you much more satisfaction to know it's "all good" down below.

Tool is handy for cutting squares out of stuff without having to drill starter holes for whatever with no overlapping lines like you would get with a circular saw...

 

Angle grinder

 

cutoff wheels and mandrel

 

They also make a bunch of shit to chuck up in the tool like rotary files, wire brush wheels et al...

I use them to put in hatches and stuff without having such a hassle rounding the corners. They are the shiznit for cutting wire rigging as well!!! In fact, you could have sawn slices on the exterior of the thruhulls then broken the edges off with some pliers and pushed it in. Lastly, they make another mandred that takes 3m abrasive disks which would work well for the inside of the thruhulls especially if you have limited space to work in...

My .02

 

Good luck pal,

Mike Sr.

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#1 - I love my DeWalt Random orbit sander, coupled to my ShopVac for cleaning up the holes in the boat B)

#2 - Catalina did a shitty job of cutting the holes square to the hull. <_<

#3 - I need to make thicker wooden blocks for my thru-hulls/seacocks <_<

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Why chop off the nipple? Drive a wooden plug in from the outside, cut it off flush, and use that as a place to center the drill bit on the hole saw. Take everything out at once.

Ish...this was a great idea. I finally got a chance to use it, and this is what i did...sorta. First, I removed the nipples with vice grips...once I got them loose, they twisted out pretty easily. The 1/2" hole is perfect for the new marelon thru hull, so I just need to sand the old glass down (the laminate they had going up the nipple) flush to accept my backing plate flush against the hull.

 

I drove a plug in the larger hole and used it as a guide...worked great! As with the other hole, now I just need to clean up the inside of the hull to allow a wood block to go flush with the hull.

 

Moving along but slowly. My re-threader kit is too small (the bolts are larger than 5/8"), and the nut buster is not the size advertised I can only fit it over nuts that have had some material removed...need to return these f$%*#ers and get larger kits. I think I've decided I am simply going to screw in some lag bolts and be done with the keel. I beat on the nuts with cold chisels and once the bad material is removed, they are solid underneath. I can't get a socket on them, but the lag bolts seem a common repair that works, so I'll go with that, to aide the existing bolts, and hold that big lead thingie attached to the boat.

 

Cold and 40 degs here today...glad I took the afternoon off and worked on the boat yesterday! B)

 

 

Hiker,

There is a cutoff tool we use in aviation called a highspeed. It is an angled (or straight) airtool that takes a mandrel with a fiber disk on it we use to cut sheetmetal for making "custom" replacement parts. If you go to www.yardstore.com it looks like a dremel mandrel on steriods and should chuck up into a drill or maybe one of those flexible extension things that go into a drill for off off angle hole drilling. I'll try to find you a link. Seems like I saw one at walmart make by campbell hausfeld. Admittedly a high quality one from the yardstore will set you back a few bucks but I use the shit out of mine. Mac tools makes one too. Just a thought... The wheels are about 2 1/2 in diameter. I'm thinking if you cut an "X" on the nut sides then whack it with a blunt chisel the nut will crack. Then you can get a small wire brush and clean 'er up. The lag bolts will work just fine but it would give you much more satisfaction to know it's "all good" down below.

Tool is handy for cutting squares out of stuff without having to drill starter holes for whatever with no overlapping lines like you would get with a circular saw...

 

Angle grinder

 

cutoff wheels and mandrel

 

They also make a bunch of shit to chuck up in the tool like rotary files, wire brush wheels et al...

I use them to put in hatches and stuff without having such a hassle rounding the corners. They are the shiznit for cutting wire rigging as well!!! In fact, you could have sawn slices on the exterior of the thruhulls then broken the edges off with some pliers and pushed it in. Lastly, they make another mandred that takes 3m abrasive disks which would work well for the inside of the thruhulls especially if you have limited space to work in...

My .02

 

Good luck pal,

Mike Sr.

Hey HB I do have a angle grinder and wheel cutter in my tool box if you need it. Unless you need to buy one!

VS

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Thanks VS..

I bought lag bolts and a long ass drill bit yesterday...may have an excuse to go over to the boat today instead of working...Oh wait...I am not doing that either :lol:

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Hey HB, hope Santa brings you lots of boat bits for your project. I hope he brings me lots of boat bits too...

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Thanks Sculpin..I hope the same for you.

 

VS and I didn't make it to the boat today, but we did have lunch and Mrs. VS & Mrs. Bitches joined us. I told VS (before the girls showed up) that in the last 10 days I've had about 12 packages show up at the front door...3 of them were presents, the rest were boat bits.

 

Do you think Mrs. Bitches would mind if I wrapped up the 105 &205 Epoxy from Defender and put it under the tree for me?? (To: HB, From: Santa!) :unsure: - ha..I think I'll go do that now!! :lol:

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Thanks Sculpin..I hope the same for you.

 

VS and I didn't make it to the boat today, but we did have lunch and Mrs. VS & Mrs. Bitches joined us. I told VS (before the girls showed up) that in the last 10 days I've had about 12 packages show up at the front door...3 of them were presents, the rest were boat bits.

 

Do you think Mrs. Bitches would mind if I wrapped up the 105 &205 Epoxy from Defender and put it under the tree for me?? (To: HB, From: Santa!) :unsure: - ha..I think I'll go do that now!! :lol:

 

Yah, I hear you. My postman here is baffled. A couple of hatches, some inside cabin hardware, lights, a new GPS, and then 1 box that is actually a Christmas present...

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Update time.. :lol: - I think I have 4 major updates:

 

So, the last few warm days we've had I've tried to get to the boat and get some stuff done. Last week I kept the 5200 in the house so it would stay warm...the temp outside actually got into the 60's that day, and I had a buddy in the yard with a step wrench working on his boat, so he helped me get the two new thru-hulls mounted with my either epoxied 1/2" plywood backer, or my 1" PVC (no rotting!) board. I tightened 'em down with the plastic nuts to let the 5200 cure. After a few weeks I'll remove the nuts, and then go ahead and install the seacocks and those will be done and waiting for hoses to be attached. The only issue is the big-ass 1-1/2" marelon seacock may require me to trim the end of the handle to be able to spin it on to the thru-hull properly, as there doesn't seem to be any way to disassemble that unit. Looking back, I should have just screwed it all down holding the seacock still and said fuck it!

 

update #2 - last weekend, anarchist No Patience came over (enticed with beer of course) to help me mock up a holding tank. I've decided to loosely use the Catalina guidelines for their 'optional' bow holding tank, but will likely have Triple M Plastics fabricate one for me, after they were recommended by someone here at SA a few years ago - see HB's T-3000 holding tank thread for those details..that tank was great, so I'll likely pay a few extra bucks to get them to do another one for me. I'll try to get some pics of the mockup...furring strips and half a roll of duct tape later, it dropped easily into the v-berth hole :P

 

update #3 - This weekend, anarchist Vitamin Sea came down to the boat to give me a hand with the exhaust hose. Those pics are elsewhere on this thread I think. Basically, the C-30 has two 9'-ish (3 m) pieces of hose with an anti-syphon valve in the middle in the sail locker. This is convenient since my local chandlary was offering 1-5/8" Shields exhaust hose in 10' lengths on sale. As expected, the flap in the anti-syphon valve had failed, so I spent some time fixing that up. At least the flap was still laying inside the fitting! A lot of fiberglass splinters, one 6" inspection port, two galley sinks & cabinet out, sore shoulders from laying in the back of the quarter berth, & a new transom thru-hull later, the exhaust is complete to the water-lift muffler.

 

update #4 - Over the weekend, I've been fiddling with the hot section of the exhaust as well. My local Ace & Lowe's each has some of the parts I need so I've been sizing it up with mostly black pipe, then I will build it with galvanized & wrap it (Mmmm, asbestos!)

 

Here are two pics...the first one is the old exhaust in the boat & before I had to remove the galley to do the exhaust work - oh yeah, the counter top is all rotten, so there's another project. My biggest issue is the amount of clearance I have for the new hot section..I'd like it to go up some before heading over to the water mixer. How short can my hose be after the water mixer before I go into the Vetus muffler?? Does the water cool the hot exhaust pretty quickly?

post-4755-1231168282_thumb.jpg

post-4755-1231168403_thumb.jpg

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HB -glad to see somebody else preserving an old C30!

I haven't read through all the posts here, in case nobody's mentioned it theres a very good Catalina discussion board in Yahoo Groups, http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Catalina30/

I'm currently restoring hull number 8 and I've blogged most of the projects on my website: www.catalinathirty.com

If I can be of assistance don't hesitate to email me through my site.

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KeelHaulin' - good to see you join the SA community..by the way - I love your boat name, Steely Dan (or Donald Fagen doing solo) has always been one of my favorites.

 

As a matter of fact, I have had your site up on the home PC for a couple of days & bookmarked & have been referencing it often. This week we found the galley counter rotten when replacing the exhaust hose. I used your upgrades as a show & tell for the wife. My boat came with two sinks, but I am considering ditching one for more counter space. I am having trouble finding a slightly larger stainless sink that will fit the 14" width dimension (unless I want to spend $400+), and may just re-use one sink. What are your thoughts on sink location? As a kid I remember the outboard sink filling up when sailing, and also, if too far outboard it is less accessible due to stove location. I guess I am trying to sneak it out there as far as I can and still use it.

 

Your site and updates have been a little bit of an inspiration. I will likely not be going to the time & expense you have, but I am trying to make her safe and enjoy her a few more years. She was neglected for a lot of years by my father as the P.O.!

 

I've been using this thread to do the same as your (much better) site. I have been too lazy to do any website building.

 

Cheers B)

 

P.S.> mine is hull #511.

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nice work HB. This is the time of year when one thinks whistfully of doing boat work. Hopefully in the fall of '10 I'll be hauling out Soñadora for an extensive - indoor - refit.

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HB you can quite working on those keel bolts just saw this on the Yahoo group. I didn't include the drawing not really needed.

 

 

From: Kent Nelson <Kent@...>

To: gwarith@...

Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 8:02:07 PM

Subject: C 30 Keel Bolt Reinforcement

 

 

Carlos,

Attached is the drawing we have for reinforcing the keel bolts. You can use 1/2" x 10" Stainless Steel lag bolts to help reinforce the keel. Use a 27/64" drill bit to pre drill for the lag bolts. Usually try to add as many as there are existing keel bolts, but if you can get 5 or 6 in you should be ok. Have not had a keel fall off before and in fact people have had to use sledge hammers and wedges even with the keel nuts remove and the boat hanging in the air to get the keel off.

 

Happy New Year,

 

Kent Nelson

Engineering Department

Catalina Yachts

21200 Victory Blvd.

Woodland Hills, CA 91367

(818) 884-7700 ext. 236

(818) 884-3810 Fax

kent@...

www.catalinayachts.com

 

 

That is a nice C30 site KeelHaulin. It just makes my feel like such a slacker. I am lucky the PO's on my C30 we saints they took good care hull 199.

 

Pulled the ice box out of mine this weekend then stood there and stared at the opening for a beer or two. I think a ac refrigerator with take care of my needs and the price is most likely better than a DC refrigerator, not that I have checked.

 

My next project is backing plates, there are not even any on the cleats, maybe that is normal?

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dew...thanks! After I'd ordered those tools that turned out to be useless (for this particular application), I decided to do the lag bolt thing. I got an e-mail from someone else on the C-30 Yahoo group with pics of his lag bolt setup and it looked good to me. That is enough piece of mind for me! B)

 

As a matter of fact I just bought the 1/2" stainless lag bolts last week. I think the biggest I could find was 8" length. Thanks for the tip on the drill bit size. I had bought an 18" long 1/2" bit ($20 by itself!) but it is still in its packaging, so I will see what else I can find in a slightly smaller size.

 

Keelhaulin' makes me feel like a slacker too. I think I got a link to his site thru the Yahoo group also. I've been checking into it since I got the boat. My wife really likes his galley set up, especially the cool etched spalsh rails and mirrored doors and stuff. 'Honey, he has access to a CNC milling machine. I am a computer geek, sorry!!' <_<

 

Backing plates and that sort of thing I think came on some later boats. That's pretty far down the list for me right now, but on the 'check in to'. I even read about some guys fretting over rebedding or clearing out their 'stanchions with the holding tank vent' or something - my boat didn't even have a holding tank and the tank that was installed was not engineered very well, and has been removed. Stanchion vents my ass!

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Thanks for the kind words guys!

HB, regarding the sink, just ask your wife...counterspace is waaay more important than a second sink!

If you need a replacement check out Ebay for RV Sinks.

If you need to do some reconstruction of the galley cabinet anyways, you might consider extending the cabinet/countertop to the starboard side a bit to make use of that stupid triangular deadspace on the end.

I wish I had done that on my boat, too late now.

I've never heard of any problem with the sink filling while underway but I usually keep that thru-hull closed except when needed or moored, however...

My girlfriend (now wife) didn't make a very good first impression with my dad when she neglected to close the toilet valve after using the head on his C&C '36, jeebus what a mess when we heeled.

HB, if you're a computer nerd, and you have access to any CAD or draw program Corel, Adobe etc., it's pretty easy to make up files (.ai or .dxf) that you can send out for cnc work, they can be done in 2D, 3D is only required for sculpting.

You'll often find that smaller sign shops that are cnc equipped are quite willing to take on outside work at reasonable rates and they'll probably have offcuts of plexi a lot cheaper than full sheets.

Again, contact me if can be of help!

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thanks KH..I hadn't thought of that. We have a sign guy in the sailing club that does most of the vinyl work around here on boats..I'll ask him about it!

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Sorry Dew, I neglected to answer your question.

I did find backing plates on my cleats but just some bis-ass fender washers on the stanchions.

My boat never came with a factory lifeline gate.

When I ordered the lifeline gates from Catalina they were shipped with aluminum backing plates.

I used those as models to reproduce for the rest of my stanchions.

I'm finding there are some differences between my boat and most others, I usually attribute the differences to Catalina still being in the development stage with the C30 when mine (#8) was built.

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KH,

Thanks also for the tip on the counter length..you are right...that area is useless except for more counter space!

 

Also, you need to modify your signature. NEVER show your wife the receipts. Read the earlier posts in this thread.

 

And finally, in SA tradition. F off newbie!!! Except don't really, because you are already a great help and we need more hands-on dudes like you here..only in regular SA do they say that! It's just tradition. B)

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Thanks for the warm welcome HB...

nuthin' says welcome like a nice big "fuck off newbie"! :lol:

 

Fixed that for you, :lol: and HB forgot "show us your...etc B)

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I dry fitted my hot exhaust today after work. I figured I'd better go visit the boat since it is supposed to snow tomorrow.

 

I also got the last of the four thru-hull/backing plate dealios secured with 5200...After that one cures I can get those seacocks screwed on and move forward. I had to cut an inch off my large seacock handle so it would fit..it is close to the edge of the setee.

 

here is a pic of the hot section.

post-4755-1233618100_thumb.jpg

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I dry fitted my hot exhaust today after work. I figured I'd better go visit the boat since it is supposed to snow tomorrow.

 

I also got the last of the four thru-hull/backing plate dealios secured with 5200...After that one cures I can get those seacocks screwed on and move forward. I had to cut an inch off my large seacock handle so it would fit..it is close to the edge of the setee.

 

here is a pic of the hot section.

 

 

HB,

 

You need some insulating wrap for that? I may still have most of a roll of 2" "Welder's Cloth" I bought last time I put together a dry side.

 

IB

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IB,

Sure..I will need some. I was adding it to my shopping list! The stuff that was on the old section is pretty beat, and I've probably doubled the length of the pipe now too.

 

So, here's a question. When I put this together for real, do I need any pipe goop or anything? Teflon tape (will that melt?)? Will the pipe seal itself up after a couple of heat cycles with no thread stuff?

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IB,

Sure..I will need some. I was adding it to my shopping list! The stuff that was on the old section is pretty beat, and I've probably doubled the length of the pipe now too.

 

So, here's a question. When I put this together for real, do I need any pipe goop or anything? Teflon tape (will that melt?)? Will the pipe seal itself up after a couple of heat cycles with no thread stuff?

Bitches,

 

No.2 Permatex

 

You will get a mild smell on the first run through, but NO.2 is the best stuff going for a sealant. It stays pliable and will release if you need to do repairs.

 

Will Museler

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sailman, thanks. I am familiar with the No.2 Permatex, but never thought about it for this application. Way back in the day when I was yanking major components on & off my '78 Civic almost daily I used this stuff all the time. Almost as messy as 5200 though! <_<

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So, here's a question. When I put this together for real, do I need any pipe goop or anything? Teflon tape (will that melt?)? Will the pipe seal itself up after a couple of heat cycles with no thread stuff?

Since those are tapered pipe threads, use pipe dope. It has been my experience doing (too much) plumbing that pipe dope ALWAYS works, whereas teflon tape usually works. Apply it to the male threads only.

 

EDIT: Sailman's advice might be good. Never tried it. But permatex is often used on auto engine cooling systems.

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jfr - using sailman's provided link it seems the temp range for No.2 Permatex is -65 to 400F. I think that should cover whatever the A-4 can spit out.

 

I am using pipe dope on all of my thru-hulls & seacock fittings. I permanently installed & sealed my first one a few weeks ago and wasn't able to loosen it by hand yesterday.

 

Boy, these travel lift guys won't like me at launch time. "Hang on guys, I have 6 thru-hulls to check for leaks!...um, yeah..how about you just splash her and leave the slings attached until after lunch time??" :o:lol:

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jfr - using sailman's provided link it seems the temp range for No.2 Permatex is -65 to 400F. I think that should cover whatever the A-4 can spit out.

 

I am using pipe dope on all of my thru-hulls & seacock fittings. I permanently installed & sealed my first one a few weeks ago and wasn't able to loosen it by hand yesterday.

 

Boy, these travel lift guys won't like me at launch time. "Hang on guys, I have 6 thru-hulls to check for leaks!...um, yeah..how about you just splash her and leave the slings attached until after lunch time??" :o:lol:

If they've done any wooden boats it should'nt be a hassle. Watching one of my Brother's woodies go in and seeing the sprinklers go off down below was not a comforting sight!

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So, here's a question. When I put this together for real, do I need any pipe goop or anything? Teflon tape (will that melt?)? Will the pipe seal itself up after a couple of heat cycles with no thread stuff?

Since those are tapered pipe threads, use pipe dope. It has been my experience doing (too much) plumbing that pipe dope ALWAYS works, whereas teflon tape usually works. Apply it to the male threads only.

 

EDIT: Sailman's advice might be good. Never tried it. But permatex is often used on auto engine cooling systems.

 

Permatex 1372 Sealant goes all the way up to 600F. Defiantly put something on there!! Loctite 592 has never failed me but I have never used it for something that hot. Its max temp is 400F.

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Nice...good weather day here in So. MD. Two new holes drilled in the boat. Raymarine ST40 depth & speed transducers ready to go in when the 5200 cures.

 

Also pulled some more nasty water lines off the engine and secured some more thru-hulls with TPFE pipe dope since I've cured the backing plates to the hull.

 

Busy...busy...busy...Thanks to Anarchist Smurff and Anarchist Hobie Dog for coming over to the boat today to help..Major steps to having the 4KSB floating this spring were made today!! B)

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Thanks Burnsy & Ryley, I've done the blister mark/grind/dry/fill/sand before..on a buddy's J/36. Those were pinholes, and we were making a racing bottom. If I recall, most of these blisters were dime or nickel sized, so I suspect more of the "100 or so good ones."

 

I think I'll haul and dry out toute suite. Hopefully the engine will run well enough to get the 25 minutes to the marina where I am hauling...she starts missing under load, and I suspect there are plenty of barnacles on the prop too, further reducing efficiency.

...snip

I am still catching up on your thread, so maybe that missing under load issue has been dealt with, but in case it hasn't, that sounds very much like a points adjustment issue. Just increasing the gap a tiny little bit might dramatically improve performance under load. That or advancing the timing a teeny bit. Or both.

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Thanks LN..it has not been dealt with. Since I couldn't get a long 3/8" drill bit for my keel bolts (the 7/16" is about 1 inch too short, and no one makes long 7/16" drill bits that I can find around here), I piddled with the motor some more this weekend. I was pretty sure the waterjacket side plate had never been removed, so I decided to yank it..Not too bad, but the inside of the motor smells like the bottom of the creek. Lots of sediment build up..but initial inspection shows it to be sound anyway. Which is good..another common problem with the sideplate is bolt failure. I had none, but I can see the P.O. upsized the alternator bracket bolt to a 9/16" and all the others are 1/2". The diverter for the raw water that belongs in the plate is gone/disintegrated/was never there, so I am glad I pulled the plate to inspect. I figured I might as well since i had already removed all those other parts to get to it & replace the hoses that run along it.

 

I just pulled the distributor off this weekend (to get to the sideplate). I am considering ponying up the boat buck (~$100) for electronic ignition, but haven't done it yet. Before haul out and motoring in the creek this past fall, I twisted the dizzy a little to get it running the best, as recommended by Don Moyer, but I didn't pull the cap or anything to check the points, etc.. I am sure I'll have to redo all that again, now that the distrbutor and alternator are laying over in the chart table now. The points looked good at initial inspection, but it was just in passing as I was doing other things.

 

Me & Hobie Dog & Smurff worked on some other parts of the boat this weekend. HD helped me drill more holes in the boat for my new depth sounder transducer & get that and the new paddlewheel installed. I also cut one of my new hatchboards...the one that was failing (repaired 20 years ago) failed again this weekend. Since the weather was nice, I could take the hatch board home and leave the boat open overnight, where I could template it and cut a new one on the table saw. It came out pretty good. The thru-hull/seacocks are all finished and doped, and screwed in (finally). I'll have to do a bit of engineering to get the head thru-hull hose (that will always be closed anyway) routed, but Smurff came up with a good idea for that. The issue there is the damn Marelon seacocks are so huge that there isn't enough room (without cutting a hole in the setee) to put a 90 degree elbow on the thing.

 

I am considering taking some leftover exhaust wrap (50' roll!) after I finish the hot section and wrapping the exhaust behind the ice box, if I can get to it. It runs outboard of the ice box on its way back to the transom, and I seem to remember it always made the old man grumble when we had to motor a lot.

 

Need to take the camera over and get some more pics.

 

Oh, and I am in the middle of installing a ceiling fan for Mrs. Bitches in the kitchen at home too. B)

 

I can't wait for the day when I start putting things back together again..

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Ahhhh...my new 4ksb thread fell off the front page of CA...the horror!

 

OK, so yesterday I pulled the exhaust hose back out from behind the icebox, and double wrapped it with header wrap. Basically, I have enough play in between the hull and the icebox now (since me and Vitamin Sea spent all day yanking out all of the styrofoam chunks) I figured rather than try to do a shitty job of improving the icebox insulation and make another mess, I should insulate the pipe itself to reduce the heat it spews out there, for the same reason you wrap the hot section.

 

Then it got cold & dark, so it was time to head home. I was also fitting some new bunk boards and stuff, and I have them home to sand/seal. The old board, which you can see here under the counter top, did not provide full access to the motor..what a dumb design! So, I have built two new boards here, and it should come out just about flush with the cabinet when it is all reinstalled, and I will be able to get to things like the oil dipstick & the dizzy and stuff.

post-4755-1235157235_thumb.jpg

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Wow, she's starting to look like a whole new boat! At least in that shot...

P.s> OMFG top of page!!! AND it's a friday!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

nicebw.gif

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Lord Nougat...thank you for the Friday picture...my pic is unfortunately are old pics of the boat, before disassembly - it was posted to show the stupid board design that goes under the cabinet that limits engine access. I have since remedied that with my new boards.

 

I will get her back together though..The filler on the counter top came out nice, I'll be sanding and sealing that tomorrow!!!

 

Beer & TV tonight..too cold & late to warm up the garage. Gotta keep an eye on my ailing VOR boat too <_<

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OK..well..today was pretty nice, so I did all the cuts on the hatchboards and got them temporarily installed. I still need to 'seal' them with something, as they look great when clean, but like to collect dirt. I am thinking just a nice quick UV clear coat or something, but at least for now they'll keep the rain out of the boat.

 

I also epoxied my new counter top and my new seat boards that will go under the counter & over the engine eventually..this will solve that full access problem a few posts up. (just above the beautiful Friday post! ;) )

 

So the engine cover & stuff are done, tomorrow I hope to cut the formica if the epoxy has cured enough I can lay it out and use the counter as a pattern.

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Bump,

 

Too cold to work on the boat, Bitches?

 

I was thinking of heading out to climb under the tarp for the first time this winter. I've been doing field measurements on an uncovered sistership that's closer to the clubhouse, but it may be time for a proper visit myself today.

 

Cheers,

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CHuck...it has been pretty cold here...We just got 12" of snow on Sunday night! I actually did go to the boat yesterday afternoon. The tarp idea didn't work so well, as it turns out it was too big, so it did a great job of hanging over the stanchions and collecting snow/ice/water and holding it for me. If I was Reid Stowe I'd have full tanks! <_< - I did kick some of the snow off the deck, and I am happy to report that my new hatchboards are doing great..I did not see one drop of water inside the boat near the companionway.

 

So, in addition to checking on the tarp, my short trip to the boat was predicated by some parts I had ordered that made it into the wrong bin, you know, the stuff-to-work-on-in-the-garage bin, stuff-that-goes-to-the-boat bin, misc.-crap-for-later-bin, etc.. Anyway, some gaskets & the bowl screen I need for the mech. fuel pump which I am putting together in the garage were in the boat bin on the boat. While painting this weekend, I also had the thermostat housing crumble in my hand, so it is shot and must be replaced...preferential flow in the bypass portion of the housing can cause overheating. I wanted to make sure I found all my parts before placing an order at Moyer Marine so my order list is as complete as possible.

 

I also picked up a #0 screwdriver to remove the old big-ass plastic 1977-vintage letters off the transom, & thirty #8 x 1" SS screws yesterday to secure the trim/splash rail back to the counter top & to the cabinet, which may be this evening's project.

 

Good thing the garage has heat to keep things moving..mid-April is coming up FAST! :unsure:

 

Oh, I am also waiting on my holding tank from Triple M still, and have my Sealand sanitation list here at my desk to place that order in a few days

 

thanks for the bump, and there's the update. B)

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The tarp idea didn't work so well, as it turns out it was too big, so it did a great job of hanging over the stanchions and collecting snow/ice/water and holding it for me. If I was Reid Stowe I'd have full tanks!

I pull my stanchions out every year to let the tarp sit flat against the deck. I should look at doing the PVC pipe arches some time, they would make working on the boat so much easier. Maybe next year...

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The tarp idea didn't work so well, as it turns out it was too big, so it did a great job of hanging over the stanchions and collecting snow/ice/water and holding it for me. If I was Reid Stowe I'd have full tanks!

I pull my stanchions out every year to let the tarp sit flat against the deck. I should look at doing the PVC pipe arches some time, they would make working on the boat so much easier. Maybe next year...

That is my plan for next year. I have seen two setups using PVC conduit instead of pipe, its cheaper and more flexible.

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My goal was to have the tarp be too short and miss the stanchions and lay on the boom like a boom tent, and straight down & tight to the stanchion bases. Not so good for deck work but it would keep (most) of the water off the windows, my main leak point right now. I guessed on the width I needed while here at work, and picked up a cheapy $22 one from Harbor Freight while I was ordering other stuff, it was too big. Since it is supposed to warm up this week, I figured getting the tarp off was smarter, so the sunshine could melt the snow on deck, rather than shield it. Mine were the only footprints in the yard back to any boats in storage, except for the marina/yard guys that had been at work in the yard.

 

The other issue which mucks with my plan is that this boat has forward & aft lower shrouds, which is 18" farther back the tarp has to sit, rather than using the entire boom's length to get more coverage. I hope I'll fix all the windows & leaky chainplates & probably leaky stanchion bases this spring. This was an interim measure.

 

I am also too cheap (& poor) for a real properly fitted cover that would zip around shrouds, etc.. I used to help build those when I worked in a canvas shop, I know how much they cost :o

 

edit - Oh i see. you guys must have stanchions that pull out of their bases so you can then insert PVC...My stanchions/bases are all one piece screwed to the deck.

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My goal was to have the tarp be too short and miss the stanchions and lay on the boom like a boom tent, and straight down & tight to the stanchion bases. Not so good for deck work but it would keep (most) of the water off the windows, my main leak point right now. I guessed on the width I needed while here at work, and picked up a cheapy $22 one from Harbor Freight while I was ordering other stuff, it was too big. Since it is supposed to warm up this week, I figured getting the tarp off was smarter, so the sunshine could melt the snow on deck, rather than shield it. Mine were the only footprints in the yard back to any boats in storage, except for the marina/yard guys that had been at work in the yard.

 

The other issue which mucks with my plan is that this boat has forward & aft lower shrouds, which is 18" farther back the tarp has to sit, rather than using the entire boom's length to get more coverage. I hope I'll fix all the windows & leaky chainplates & probably leaky stanchion bases this spring. This was an interim measure.

 

I am also too cheap (& poor) for a real properly fitted cover that would zip around shrouds, etc.. I used to help build those when I worked in a canvas shop, I know how much they cost :o

 

edit - Oh i see. you guys must have stanchions that pull out of their bases so you can then insert PVC...My stanchions/bases are all one piece screwed to the deck.

Bitches,

 

My stanchions are the same as yours, thru bolted. I plan on using the frame setup with the boom and then draped over the stanchions. Buying a couple cheap blue tarps every other year is the plan.

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Will,

I was chatting with Mrs. Bitches at lunch today about that. I was thinking that I could probably just zip tie (lash with small line, whatever) the bottom of the PVC to the stanchions, or lash larger stiff PVC to work as a base, and insert the smaller diameter in there, or something. I'll have to think this through a little bit. Version 1 resulted in a ripped grommet, and ~300 lbs. of sagging snow...But that is also 300 lbs. less to melt on the deck, since I flipped it all off the tarp before I yanked it.

 

we have stupid people in the boat yard that left biminis up and rigged over the winter too all full of snow and sagging..."Honey, I wonder why you are smacking your head on this thing this summer?" <_<

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thanks for the bump, and there's the update. B)

 

Thanks for the update! Not much snow here in February -- we got it in December and January, during our bus strike, of course.

 

Visited the boat today. First time on board since October (I did too good a job sealing her up -- it's a pain to get on and off the boat, under the tarp, around the mast support (mast comes down), over the pushpit). Everything intact, did some test fitting and planning.

 

Damn phone didn't ring all day until I got there. Then it didn't stop until I got home. Figures.

 

Cheers,

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Will,

I was chatting with Mrs. Bitches at lunch today about that. I was thinking that I could probably just zip tie (lash with small line, whatever) the bottom of the PVC to the stanchions, or lash larger stiff PVC to work as a base, and insert the smaller diameter in there, or something. I'll have to think this through a little bit. Version 1 resulted in a ripped grommet, and ~300 lbs. of sagging snow...But that is also 300 lbs. less to melt on the deck, since I flipped it all off the tarp before I yanked it.

 

we have stupid people in the boat yard that left biminis up and rigged over the winter too all full of snow and sagging..."Honey, I wonder why you are smacking your head on this thing this summer?" <_<

It is amazing how some folks just seem to walk away from their boat in the fall, and magically it's ready in the spring - or not!

 

With the tarp, one thing I love is having a net over it. The net really holds it down. We get some mighty winds some times...

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Ha ha sculpin...I was hoping the winds would have blown the snow off as it fell, but no luck...we had sleety/freezing rain before the snow which likely foiled that plan. The boatyard where I am storing for the winter is actually closer than the dock I keep the boat at, and even closer than my office (except the wrong way. The boat is about 3.5 miles, the dock about 7.5 miles (4 past the boatyard), and the office, about 6, the other way.) It is awfully hard to turn right and go to work every day!!! <_<

 

Chuck..this is the most snow we've gotten in about 4 years. Usually February is our snowy month, but we've seen markedly less & less over the years. This 10" was VERY unusual. My daffodil buds are 8" tall and the krocuses are popping thru as well and they don't know WTF to do with this weather! :unsure:

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Chuck..this is the most snow we've gotten in about 4 years. Usually February is our snowy month, but we've seen markedly less & less over the years. This 10" was VERY unusual. My daffodil buds are 8" tall and the krocuses are popping thru as well and they don't know WTF to do with this weather! :unsure:

 

You and Hung, sheesh. I hate hearing how difficult it is when it snows, so hard on all the daffodils and tulips in February...

 

We got hammered with snow last year, particularly in March (just as we were heading south for March Break), so it's not "over" by a long shot yet. Having said that, we are just about to get 13 degrees (what, mid 50s?) tomorrow and a week of above-freezing days. I'm ready for that!

 

Cheers,

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Don't listen to Hike Bitches, we got at least 12" and since I am a Dude it was at least 14". :lol: But yea very unusual for us this late in the season but the the sun is strong this time of year so it is melting quick. 60's tomorrow and 70's on Sunday; wish the Antrim was ready to go as we have a race at the club...

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OK..today I finished the counter top and got the tiller lumber ripped and glued & clamped.

 

Jesus, table saws scare me!!! But, I still have all my fingers.

 

Here is the tiller all clamped up. Maple & mahogany ripped to 1/4" thick, soaked in the bathtub, then glued up with Gorilla glue and clamped. Would have been nice to have a few more clamps..I ran out.

 

Tomorrow is spend-the-day-at-the-boat day, and work on the motor and start putting that bitch back together!

post-4755-1236482727_thumb.jpg

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OK..today I finished the counter top and got the tiller lumber ripped and glued & clamped.

 

Jesus, table saws scare me!!! But, I still have all my fingers.

 

Here is the tiller all clamped up. Maple & mahogany ripped to 1/4" thick, soaked in the bathtub, then glued up with Gorilla glue and clamped. Would have been nice to have a few more clamps..I ran out.

 

Tomorrow is spend-the-day-at-the-boat day, and work on the motor and start putting that bitch back together!

Looks good Hike!

Re the table saw, I highly recommend the plastic push things. I've got a couple that are 1/2 gone now, if that was my fingers there I wouldn't be able to type too fast these days...

 

And agreed - you can never have too many clamps!

 

I'm off to the basement to put some finish on cabin sole. Stinky house!!!

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Thanks, Sculp. I have a few pushers; one of the best classes I took in high school was shop class, and they taught us how to use a table saw with no guard. The point there being, that you are much safer seeing the blade, than it being covered up by a guard and getting surprised. It is still scary though!! As much as I like booze, my rule is, no beer before the table saw...absolutely zero. Which hopefully is why I still have my fingers. I didn't have my first beer until 6:45 PM yesterday! :o

 

I have an old meat baster (like a 2" paint brush with a 16" wooden handle) that I am using as a pusher. Once you cut the notch in it, it holds the wood pretty well.

 

So today, I went over to the boat and scraped all the rust off the motor (Atomic 4) and primed it and started spraying some "Orange Mist" Duplicolor. I'll have to get some pics off it primed. The other thing I noticed was my thermostat housing studs are broken. Moyer Marine just told me not to yank them unless I was removing the head, but I vaguely remembered them coming out, and yep...the studs broke somewhere in the middle of the threads...So, I guess I need to get oversized studs and drill those out to get the new thermo housing properly installed. <_<

 

Fortunately, I had fellow anarchists, "Innocent Bystander" and "Sequoia" stop by at seemingly planned intervals to get me out of the boat and into some fresh air. I was feeling pretty good after spraying 15 oz. of paint in the bilge. B)

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Thanks, Sculp. I have a few pushers; one of the best classes I took in high school was shop class, and they taught us how to use a table saw with no guard. The point there being, that you are much safer seeing the blade, than it being covered up by a guard and getting surprised. It is still scary though!! As much as I like booze, my rule is, no beer before the table saw...absolutely zero. Which hopefully is why I still have my fingers. I didn't have my first beer until 6:45 PM yesterday! :o

 

The table saw is pretty scary, I had a kickback one time that went about 10 ft, only stopping when it destroyed the rest of the project (small table). Made me happy that I don't stand in line with the wood. The lathe scares me about as much, I had a bowl blow up one time - fragments bouncing off the ceiling.

That's funny about your shop class, mine similar. In this age of bubble wrapped kids, I expect shop class for my little guy will consist of gluing up stuff the teacher cuts out... whereas I had a metal shop teacher who would let us make throwing stars and a grappling hook. Good times, and surprisingly - nobody lost an eye.

 

So it goes. Cabin sole is looking good, and I taped the basement door shut to keep the fumes in - worked well, Mrs. Sculpin isn't too annoyed about varnish stink.

 

And good rule - no beer + power tools. I live by that one as well. I'd feel pretty stupid losing a finger or worse, just 'cause I had to have a beer.

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the studs broke somewhere in the middle of the threads...So, I guess I need to get oversized studs and drill those out to get the new thermo housing properly installed. <_<

 

As long as you're going to be drilling them out, you might think about using Left-Handed Drill Bits to do the drilling. You might get lucky and have the old one spin right out, as these left-handed bits are used by auto mechanics instead of easy-outs. I hate easy-outs - I've had them break off inside the drilled hole - which was just what I needed least: a plug of hardened steel stuck right where I now REALLY need to drill! Mechanics use left-handed bits, because when the bit "grabs" it tries to spin out the stud. I've seen them work before; quite impressive. Use them the same as with regular drill bits: start small and work your way up. Maybe spray some WD40 on it occasionally to keep it cool.

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Ran the A4 yesterday :D . Just long enough to pull each plug wire off and verify firing on all 4 cylinders. No water, in fact no hoses. VERY happy day.

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Bitches,

 

How did your keel bolt augmentation go? Here is a sample of what I have gone through this winter:

Before

post-420-1236630764_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Bitches,

 

How did your keel bolt augmentation go? Here is a sample of what I have gone through this winter:

Before

post-420-1236630764_thumb.jpg

After

 

post-420-1236630849_thumb.jpg

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Will,

 

I bought 8" long stainless lag bolts and put 6 in teh bottom of the keel. The wood under the sump was dry in some places, and damp in others, but still yellow and no black rotten wood where I drilled. I decided not to mess with it for now, and keep the bilge clean and dry. Mine doesn't look as good as yours, but I'll snap some pics when I remember the camera.

 

Update on the thermostat housing. Studs are not broken. 4 threads are plenty. I compared them to some others I found on Moyer's forum..I just need to get the nuts unstuck.

 

Nice job stickboy..thanks for your long post over at the Moyer forum. As you now know, no worries..your info about the bottoms being a bit corroded was spot on, which was way at initial glance I thought they were broken.

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OK..update time.

 

I was only able to free one nut from its stud (thermostat housing) so I ordered new studs..they should be here today. I spent most of the weekend working on the engine, getting her ready and assembled. The only thing left is the fuel line & filter between the pump & carb, and then the thermostat & housing once the studs show up.

 

I've painted the engine last week, and had left all the gaskets on the wide plate, water pump, fuel pump, thermo housing, etc.. with the intention of scraping them off after painting..that worked out great. The block is in pretty poor shape near the side plate, we'll see how that goes..I used some goop with the gasket to hopefully keep water from leaking out. I also installed the water pump & distributor this weekend. Hopefully I was successful at getting the motor to TDC. The Moyer bible says to locate the roll pin on the crankshaft vertically, but I can't see mine except thru my tiny inspection mirror, so hopefully I got it right after trying things like a stick in the cylinder, etc..

 

After the thermo housing is done, I am ready to re-install the starter & alternator. Then maybe I'll run a hose into the boat and try to fire her up! B) THEN, I can start putting the rest of the boat back together! :unsure:

 

Now, where the hell is my camera? :angry:

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I have read that using a hose to test an inboard motor can be a problem. It was someithing about too much pressure and volume forced in instead of the amount usually supplied by the onboard water pump, the result being flooding the mixing chamber and exuast elbow with back up into the exaust manifold and cylinders. If the motor is not running when the hose is turned on it may be even worse since there is no exuast pressure to evacuate the raw water. This is the type of info that comes with the understanding that I do not have any personal experience, and very little intelegence, so take it at face value.

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I have read that using a hose to test an inboard motor can be a problem. It was someithing about too much pressure and volume forced in instead of the amount usually supplied by the onboard water pump, the result being flooding the mixing chamber and exuast elbow with back up into the exaust manifold and cylinders. If the motor is not running when the hose is turned on it may be even worse since there is no exuast pressure to evacuate the raw water. This is the type of info that comes with the understanding that I do not have any personal experience, and very little intelegence, so take it at face value.

 

City water pressure generally runs 60-80 psi depending on season. CA cities tend to run on the high side due to high fire dangers and giving the FD enough pressure to work with etc.

 

My guess is that 60-80 PSI from the hose could blow a gasket in the cooling system on an engine.

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I don't know for sure that running with a hose on the intake would be a problem, but either way, the solution is simple. Run your hose to a bucket of water and make sure the hose is full before starting. (Put a 5 gallon bucket in the salon, say, and use as short a hose as possible.) Pressure will be slightly higher than normal but not enough to make a difference.

 

An Atomic 4 should be able to run quite a while on 5 gallons of water, but just in case, run another hose to keep the bucket topped off.

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I don't know for sure that running with a hose on the intake would be a problem, but either way, the solution is simple. Run your hose to a bucket of water and make sure the hose is full before starting. (Put a 5 gallon bucket in the salon, say, and use as short a hose as possible.) Pressure will be slightly higher than normal but not enough to make a difference.

 

An Atomic 4 should be able to run quite a while on 5 gallons of water, but just in case, run another hose to keep the bucket topped off.

 

Matt, thanks - that is my plan...that seems to be the documented procedure at the Moyer site...pull from the bucket with the pump, and set the hose to keep the bucket level constant. The Oberdorfer pump varies its capacity, but I think it is about 2 gallons/minute at 1,500 rpm, and slightly less at idle which seems to be about 1,000 RPM.

 

One of the other things I need to do is some re-wiring. I have a buddy that gave me his old alternator (he's re-powered to a diesel) with a functioning regulator, so I need to rip out all the garbage electrical engineer wiring my old man did in the boat. I am also going to re-locate the ammeter into the engine bay, so I don't have a 20 foot run to the cockpit in the charging circuit. These old alternators don't pump much voltage anyway...the less loss the better! :unsure:

 

Thanks to everyone else for your tips as well...the hose run is pretty long in the yard, probably 200 feet to the frost-free spigot. Dunno how much pressure I should expect after that and a run uphill into the boat .

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The bucket system makes sense. I think the guy I read about just shoved the cut off end of the hose in the raw water intake. Good luck.

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I don't know for sure that running with a hose on the intake would be a problem, but either way, the solution is simple. Run your hose to a bucket of water and make sure the hose is full before starting. (Put a 5 gallon bucket in the salon, say, and use as short a hose as possible.) Pressure will be slightly higher than normal but not enough to make a difference.

 

An Atomic 4 should be able to run quite a while on 5 gallons of water, but just in case, run another hose to keep the bucket topped off.

 

That's how we run our Volvo while on the hard - to give it a good freshwater rinse. And then when the bucket is almost empty we run the antifreeze into it. Works a charm.

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yep, nuthin' to it. Run the garden hose enough to keep up with the engine's desires depending on RPMs. The best trick I've come up with is I clamped a too-small shaft zinc that I had laying around onto the end of the intake hose to keep in in the bottom of the bucket. Well, the best trick is the two way valve I put on the through hull. Makes winterizing a piece of cake.

 

I left the end of the garden hose in the bucket once with the hose end turned off but the hose faucet still on. After a couple of days the small drip almost sunk my boat right there in the driveway :) (Well, filled the bucket anyway.)

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It was a bunch of years ago, but I remember giving a friend a hand running antifreeze through this A4. Mixed the antifreeze and water in a 5 gallon bucket, stuck the intake hose in said bucket, and fired up the engine. Both of us were surprised at how unbelievably quick the bucket was empty. Be prepared to shut the engine off Mr. Bitches.

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Thanks guys, I did a test run of this procedure this fall when I sucked antifreeze thru the engine prior to hauling.

 

At that time, I yanked the intake hose off the water pump and used a spare bit of hose from bucket to pump. You are right, it is surprising how much it pumps. What was more exciting was that even with the thru-hull closed, I couldn't get the water to stop coming in the engine intake hose. This is when I decided to replace all the thru-hulls. The antifreeze part was not the exciting part, but realizing the only way to keep the boat afloat in the travel lift slip was to stick the intake hose back on the water pump was a little worrysome. I have come to realize the whole boat is pretty much in this condition. I am surprised it only sank once. <_<

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