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Ultraman

Olson 30 Jock Straps and BOD

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Here is a thread that is actually about boats and sailing instead of incessant bickering between a bunch of snow-bound asshats.

 

I know it has been discussed before and I have done a search and read all the posts.

 

Boat is a 1983 Olson 30 now in Vancouver that I purchased from an SA ad last fall. Boat is originally from SF area. Mast is out, floor boards up, furniture tabbing is still good, but the mast step needs to be rebuilt - it is moderately compressed and cracked. This work is being done.

 

Question: Should I install the jock straps? What about BOD?

 

Sailing conditions in Vancouver are generally light 5-10kts although sometimes it blows 20-25kts.

 

I have heard many conflicting opinions. Some of the Vancouver boats have them, some don't.

 

Thoughts?

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If you are going to rebuild the mast step I would put a Jock Strap in and maybe a BOD. PM me and I will email you the instructions I wrote for the Olson 30 Website. I wrote them for both the Jock Strap and BOD. Also I have pictures of the ne approved bulkhead stiffeners I can send you.

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If you have read all the posts then you know that the decision is yours. This is a 26 year old boat, probably raced hard for some time of its life. The sails load up more than when the boats were built, plus things wear out and the boat gets softer as it ages. You already are replacing the mast step, so that should be your first clue that the boat is getting tired and needs help.

 

JM

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Yes, and when OldSchool sees this thread, you will be strong-armed into bringing the boat east for CORK in August.

 

Cheers,

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BRING IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I have a rebuilt step, but no BOD nor straps, and everything still seems stiff to me. Luckily my boat spent most of its life in Kansas, not SF...

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My personal feeling is that the Jock Strap and BOD are great for areas of high winds and large crews...aka SF. I recently purchased an O30 myself, 3rd one for the family, and it also came from SF but luckily was not raced there...or anywhere for that matter. I have reinforced the mast step due to some slight settling of the original. I race in an area similar in winds as yours, 5-10knts mainly with days of 15-25 occasionally and am not planning on adding the above mods. If I was going to sail in SF or any other place with higher average winds I might look into adding them. The other O30 in our harbor did add the BOD and has since blown a shroud due to over tensioning. O30's are well build boats, it's when you begin to add larger then needed sails in higher winds and then add 8-9 large bodies on the rail that the integrity of the boat begins to weaken. By the way which O30 did you get from SF? Mine is hull #133 White Lightning. Good luck with the boat, they are a blast to sail.

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My personal feeling is that the Jock Strap and BOD are great for areas of high winds and large crews...aka SF. I recently purchased an O30 myself, 3rd one for the family, and it also came from SF but luckily was not raced there...or anywhere for that matter. I have reinforced the mast step due to some slight settling of the original. I race in an area similar in winds as yours, 5-10knts mainly with days of 15-25 occasionally and am not planning on adding the above mods. If I was going to sail in SF or any other place with higher average winds I might look into adding them. The other O30 in our harbor did add the BOD and has since blown a shroud due to over tensioning. O30's are well build boats, it's when you begin to add larger then needed sails in higher winds and then add 8-9 large bodies on the rail that the integrity of the boat begins to weaken. By the way which O30 did you get from SF? Mine is hull #133 White Lightning. Good luck with the boat, they are a blast to sail.

 

 

Having already broken on O 30, I would respectfully disagree. The boats are getting old and it is a good safeguard. It doesn't cost much, if you do it yourself. I would seriously consider both.

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I belive I would go with a bra and thong underwear (matching), but I would leave off the chastity belt.

 

Cheers on the boat purchase! ;)

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Here is a thread that is actually about boats and sailing instead of incessant bickering between a bunch of snow-bound asshats.

 

Where's the fun in that? <_<

 

 

I know it has been discussed before and I have done a search and read all the posts.

 

Boat is a 1983 Olson 30 now in Vancouver that I purchased from an SA ad last fall. Boat is originally from SF area. Mast is out, floor boards up, furniture tabbing is still good, but the mast step needs to be rebuilt - it is moderately compressed and cracked. This work is being done.

 

Question: Should I install the jock straps? What about BOD?

 

If you want to support the rig, do it on the cheap, and don't mind a serious PITA in the cabin (I mean, Olson 30s don't have any friggin' room down below anyway), then yeah.

 

If you don't mind the boat flexing a bit, and getting flexier every year until it pops it's tabbing (might not take that long :huh: ), then don't.

 

If you want the boat to be stiff & strong, and stay that way, and don't want your cabin cluttered up by an Erector Set conglomeration, put in a ring frame. It wouldn't be that much more work, it will offer better support, it will be lighter, and it will last longer.

 

I've seen a number of boats with ring frames but only one O30 done that way. I dunno why. Style maybe?

 

FB- Doug

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Make sure your BOD is curved up to the countours of the cabin top. This keeps the cabin much more open than a BOD that cuts straight across. Check out the O30 website for photos of these curved BODs.

I changed mine and the difference is significant.

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Ring frames are not OD legal...

 

So if he put in a properly constructed ring frame, which weighs more than a boat without a BoD and jock straps, would you tell him that he can't come and race OD with you guys?

 

We have this debate all the time. Unlike J/24s or J/105s, but like the O30, the Kirby 25 does not have a large OD class, but it does have pockets of OD fleets. Every now and then you get someone turning up with a modified rudder, extra winches or an oversize Genoa (151% is class maximum, vs. 155% for PHRF). Do you tell them that they can't play (seeing as how any one of these changes by itself is pretty insignificant in terms of boat speed), do you tell them they can't use their nice Genoa in your regatta (here, use this old blown-out sail instead) or that they tape up their extra deck hardware (I bought those winches for regattas, dammit, and I want to use them!) or do you suck it up and realize that a good start or catching the right shift will make more difference than all those things put together?

 

Sorry to rag on you OS but I wanted to make the point -- when we invite boats for a OD regatta (for a 30-year-old boat built in limited numbers -- 221 boats total), pretty much everyone is welcome!

 

Cheers,

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You want him to go to the trouble of building a ring frame which the class measurer has specifically said is illegal and take the chance?

A straight beam takes about 1/2 hr to install, if he's got the mast step apart, the jockstrap adapter is cheap and easy and takes no extra time. If you want to get fancy and improve forepeak access, laminate a curved beam that runs under (but not touching) the deck. If you're going to race at all, add the beam and straps.

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You want him to go to the trouble of building a ring frame which the class measurer has specifically said is illegal and take the chance?

A straight beam takes about 1/2 hr to install, if he's got the mast step apart, the jockstrap adapter is cheap and easy and takes no extra time. If you want to get fancy and improve forepeak access, laminate a curved beam that runs under (but not touching) the deck. If you're going to race at all, add the beam and straps.

 

Fair dinkum. Just wanted to make the point: sometimes the rules need to be changed to accommodate reality.

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Sorry to be obtuse here gang but WTF is a BOD and a jockstrap? Some kind of stiffener/deck tiedown?

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Sorry to be obtuse here gang but WTF is a BOD and a jockstrap? Some kind of stiffener/deck tiedown?

 

Sometimes you get too buried in the details.

 

Yes, BoD = "Beam of Destiny". Runs between the chainplates inside the cabin, just below deck level. Apparently in straight or curved form. (Is there a class-legal BoD design?)

 

Jockstraps run from each chainplate to the keel step. Rod + turnbuckles, I believe.

 

Cheers,

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Nettles, Thanks for asking the same question that I have but was afraid to ask.

 

Do these things keep the rig in the boat? If It make it safer, then screw the OD config.

 

 

Sail safe!

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Nettles, Thanks for asking the same question that I have but was afraid to ask.

 

Do these things keep the rig in the boat? If It make it safer, then screw the OD config.

 

 

Sail safe!

 

There are different ways to stiffen the boat -- as illustrated above -- all are effective if done right, but some are either more convenient or more class legal than others.

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You want him to go to the trouble of building a ring frame which the class measurer has specifically said is illegal and take the chance?

 

Ah so... have sailed O30s some, never owned one myself.... didn't know a ring frame would be illegal

 

A straight beam takes about 1/2 hr to install, if he's got the mast step apart, the jockstrap adapter is cheap and easy and takes no extra time.

 

In other words, it's quick, cheap, can be assembled from stuff available at Home Depot... all good things, but a ring frame solves the problem much better & will last longer, as well as preserving what little cabin space there is.

 

I've seen BoDs and nut-cutter stays on a bunch of 030s and most look like they were assembled by grade-schoolers who weren't sure how to use Daddy's tools.

 

It's one reason why I haven't bought an Olson 30 and now that I know a proper structure is NOT CLASS LEGAL I would never consider one. Why does the class want to penalize doing the job right?

 

If you're going to race at all, add the beam and straps.

 

Agreed.

 

Although buying a different boat might be a better long-term solution.

 

FB- Doug

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You want him to go to the trouble of building a ring frame which the class measurer has specifically said is illegal and take the chance?

 

Ah so... have sailed O30s some, never owned one myself.... didn't know a ring frame would be illegal

 

A straight beam takes about 1/2 hr to install, if he's got the mast step apart, the jockstrap adapter is cheap and easy and takes no extra time.

 

In other words, it's quick, cheap, can be assembled from stuff available at Home Depot... all good things, but a ring frame solves the problem much better & will last longer, as well as preserving what little cabin space there is.

 

I've seen BoDs and nut-cutter stays on a bunch of 030s and most look like they were assembled by grade-schoolers who weren't sure how to use Daddy's tools.

 

It's one reason why I haven't bought an Olson 30 and now that I know a proper structure is NOT CLASS LEGAL I would never consider one. Why does the class want to penalize doing the job right?

 

If you're going to race at all, add the beam and straps.

 

Agreed.

 

Although buying a different boat might be a better long-term solution.

 

FB- Doug

Good point - what the big deal about doing the ring thing - maybe the class can reconsider? Is it really a cheater thing or just something never addressed?

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Just wanted to make the point: sometimes the rules need to be changed to accommodate reality.

 

Good point - what the big deal about doing the ring thing - maybe the class can reconsider? Is it really a cheater thing or just something never addressed?

 

My point exactly.

 

Sometimes the [existing class members don't] want to allow stuff like this because they feel that they need to do the same thing to remain competitive. IMNSHO I think that a change like this would improve the usefulness of the boat (by making the bow more accessible) while serving the same purpose as the BoD and Jockstraps. It's more expensive to do right than the quick bolt-ons. Truthfully it's the way that the boats should have come out of the factory in the first place.

 

Adding stiffness to a boat should always be allowed when it results in additional strength and weight. I have a problem if you allow someone to cut-out standard structure and either not replace it, or put something lighter (and more expensive) in its place.

 

But that's just my opinion. I'm not always that popular in my own class association.

 

Cheers,

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owned three Olson 30's. I say do a bod and a jock strap even for light air. I also think a ring bulkhead is a great idea- I'd add one if I was re-doing a boat.

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I am not saying that the ring frame is a big deal, but that it is non-OD. I know of one boat that did it before it was "outlawed", and that boat was grandfathered in. It also had titanium pushpit, pulpit and stanchions IIRC. This boat was extremely competitive, and continues to be AFAIK. Peckerhead knows more about that boat than I do, though.

 

I am not a measurer, but at this point, I am sure that most regattas would accept any O30 that is not flagrantly outside of the rules. Some people have modified their pushpits to aid in dealing with the outboard. No big deal, as the total weight of the pushpits did not change appreciably. One person wanted to put an open transom on...fine, but not for OD events! Also, asymetric chutes were outlawed for OD racing a while ago.

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I say go the ring frame! and while you'r at it, open transoms. the moore 24's have been doing it for a while, and they get 30-40 boats to there nats.

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I agree with the idea that a ring frame or similar stiffener should be allowed. You're basically doing the same thing as the beam and straps, while keeping good access to the forepeak. If anything it would add weight to the boat.

I've never ripped a sail on my jockstraps, but we've snagged sailbags and clothes more than once, and clobbered a bunch of heads on the beam.

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Make sure your BOD is curved up to the countours of the cabin top. This keeps the cabin much more open than a BOD that cuts straight across. Check out the O30 website for photos of these curved BODs.

I changed mine and the difference is significant.

 

 

Pride Marine

 

I see no reason one could not add a section of a ring frame that spanned

the cabin top from chainplate to chainplate and not be class legal. But

it's up to the class.

 

The lower part of it sould be illegal though.

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As one of the grunts hauling sails to and fro from the forepeak a couple of times a week - I vote neither. If you do, supply bicycle brain buckets and kneepads for the crew.

 

The narrow distance from chainplate to chainplate sure loads the shrouds in a blow, but if you don't overtension so the windward is still fighting the leeward tension, things stay in place - at least to 45 kts and 15 years on.

 

Taking an O30 from the relative desert of SF to the rainforest, you would better spend your time keeping water out of the cored deck areas by resealing stanchion pockets, jib tracks, cabin top winch bases and the portlights. A dry and stiff cabin top is the original spreader beam between chainplates. Keep the core, top and bottow skins working and life is good.

 

The boat is certainly no faster with them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a thread that is actually about boats and sailing instead of incessant bickering between a bunch of snow-bound asshats.

 

I know it has been discussed before and I have done a search and read all the posts.

 

Boat is a 1983 Olson 30 now in Vancouver that I purchased from an SA ad last fall. Boat is originally from SF area. Mast is out, floor boards up, furniture tabbing is still good, but the mast step needs to be rebuilt - it is moderately compressed and cracked. This work is being done.

 

Question: Should I install the jock straps? What about BOD?

 

Sailing conditions in Vancouver are generally light 5-10kts although sometimes it blows 20-25kts.

 

I have heard many conflicting opinions. Some of the Vancouver boats have them, some don't.

 

Thoughts?

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I love another thread where the BOD lives on. I copied the idea from an IOR boat I sailed on in the 80's and buddy of mine who owned a machine shop in the early 90's built a couple for me. He used to call everything the "whatever" of destiny, lug nut, beam, connecting rod etc. The name stuck and I get a good laugh every time I read it. We made a very official looking RSEmarine "Beam of Destiny" logo that was right next to the "I donated blood" sticker.

 

BTW you will find there is a measurable performance advantage with a JS and BOD, even in light air. If doing a JS, do an adjustable mast step and headstay toggle also. Rake is good in light air.

 

Ring frame would be killer IF it was class legal.

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Try googling for "Beam of Destiny" (with the quotation marks). You'll find that not only has the name stuck, but basically nothing else in the world is called that!

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I sailed all last season on Lithium - one of the other Vancouver O30s. Li has a JS but no beam. The owner of Black Ice told us that his beam didn't seem to do anything - ie there was no evidence of fatigue around the holes where the bolts when through.

 

If you call the local Q loft and talk to Dave (Black Ice owner) he can give you lots of good advice.

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Many thanks for all the comments and PMs. I think I will at least install the Jockstraps while the mast is out and look into the BOD.

 

On Pride Marine it seems you can get a full kit for the Jockstraps for C$330=US$285. Has anyone used this? Looks pretty simple to install.

 

Pardon my ignorance on all this, as rig tuning on the Magic 25 was so easy - pump up the mast ram to the desired amount and away you go... I guess that is one of the benefits of the new Rocket 22 with the screw mast adjuster.

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I wonder if someone could build/market one of those mast screws,

 

just replace your step and your in business - or is there more to it? Forget about class regs for a minute.

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We had half a dozen actively raced boats here when Olson 30s wer brand new. The locals quit racing Olson 30s in Austin sometime in the nineties. We are a light air no waves place.

 

I had already reinforced some of the boats because the masts were pushing things apart inside.

 

I cannot imagine would rather not be sailing an Olson 30 offshore without additional reinforcements...

 

 

especially as all the structural failures I saw were on boats that were only a few years old

 

and

 

 

especially since the boats are all about 25 years old now.

 

If the class rules don't allow significant additional reinforcements, I think the class rules should be changed immediately.

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Here is what is allowed for strengthening the boat, according to the rule. It should be noted that the ring frame is not specifically mentioned in the rule, but there was a measurer's decision several years ago against them.

 

Fore and aft stiffeners or stringers are allowed only in the area between the cabinets and the aft end of the V-berth on both sides of the hull, extending upward from the hill, no higher than the height of the v-berth. The material should be of plywood, similar thickness and strength, and fastened in keeping with the existing construction method. The blukhead shall not have cut outs other than a half (1/2) inch weep hole at the aft end to allow for water drainage (rev 2004)

 

The mast step and keel frames shall be stock or their equivalent except that the keel frame under the mast step may be reinforced as long as the mast step point is no closer than 48 inches below the inside of the deck laminations. The mast step may be replaced with a slotted plate to allow for adjustment of the mast base location. No device shall allow movement or adjustment of the mast base location under load or while sailing. (rev 2000) Installation of stiffeners horizontally between the chainplates is allowed. Installation of wire or rod between the chainplates and the mast step is allowed. (rev 2000)

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Many thanks for all the comments and PMs. I think I will at least install the Jockstraps while the mast is out and look into the BOD.

 

On Pride Marine it seems you can get a full kit for the Jockstraps for C$330=US$285. Has anyone used this? Looks pretty simple to install.

 

Pardon my ignorance on all this, as rig tuning on the Magic 25 was so easy - pump up the mast ram to the desired amount and away you go... I guess that is one of the benefits of the new Rocket 22 with the screw mast adjuster.

 

David Wilby at Pride Marine (along with O Natural and Old School and the other guys there) has built a nice OD fleet in Kingston. The BoD and JS fix is the fastest and cheapest way out (along with the mast step work).

 

In terms of OD class rules, seeing as how there are 2 legal rigs for the O30, I don't see why the class would object to a rule change like this. But I have no dog in that fight. My dog fights in a similar class that resists change because... well, I'm not sure why. Because they've lived with the existing class rules for so long, I suppose.

 

If I wanted to perpetuate an arms race I would buy new sails every year. Making sound improvements to a 30 year old boat with known weaknesses seems to me a pretty non-threatening thing to do.

 

Sorry for the hijack. Overly restrictive class rules are a pet peeve of mine. To answer your original question, IMHO, yes, the BoD and JS mods are probably a very good thing to do.

 

Cheers,

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I was just looking for the CAD file or any pic's of the last batch of BOD's and JS's we made and I'm afraid they went out with my last computer. The BOD's were made from sections of mast tube (Hunter 19 I think) welded to aluminum angle plates with a gusset. We machined oval lightening holes (mostly for cosmetics) in the boom section, and an entry slot to the sail groove on each end. They were annodized black. You could use a luff slug with a loop of velcro and hang sheets, a curtain etc. from the beam. The JS used Schaeffer strap tangs, turnbuckles and SS wire along with a slotted delrin step connected to a ronstan turnbuckle screw for adjustment (like a J-24 set up).

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As far as jock straps go, couldn't you use some type of Spectra lashing rather than cable? That way at least there is some give, plus rigging something like that would probably be easier then cable, and lighter.

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It already has some give as the boats are flexing around like a piece of spaghetti. You could make vectran jock straps no prob, and they are out of the sun so they should be fine, but I think you still want a turnbuckle to tension them. The BOD on the Olson I sail from time to time never seems to load up so not sure how necessary it is.

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Ya i figure you can rig it something like a spectra lifeline, with a turn buckle at each end. I can see the BOD being more necessary than the jock strap, especially if you have a rebuilt mast step.

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For a jock stap I'd use line without any creep- like vectran in some coolio color(or colour). Be sure to also anchor the deck to the mast step or the mast where the halyards turn out as there's a tad bit of "lift".

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Yeah, I'd use a line with minimal creep and stretch too. Something with good strength to weight ratios, something easily handled and widely available. Something like.. stainless steel rigging wire.

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Yeah, I'd use a line with minimal creep and stretch too. Something with good strength to weight ratios, something easily handled and widely available. Something like.. stainless steel rigging wire.

 

Rod. Spend a buck...

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Yeah, I'd use a line with minimal creep and stretch too. Something with good strength to weight ratios, something easily handled and widely available. Something like.. stainless steel rigging wire.

 

Rod. Spend a buck...

 

Cobalt Rod!

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Yeah, I'd use a line with minimal creep and stretch too. Something with good strength to weight ratios, something easily handled and widely available. Something like.. stainless steel rigging wire.

 

Rod. Spend a buck...

 

Cobalt Rod!

 

 

I prefer unobtainium.

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Wire and rod are nice, but why not try some of the new pieces of technology out there. I am pretty sure Vectran is pretty obtainable everywhere. Plus it is much easier to splice on a new piece of vectran then it is to try and swedge wire.

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The maststep of my Olson 30 has now been beautifully rebuilt by Trevor Salmon of TGS Boatworks and I went with the Jockstrap kit from Buzz Balengar. Both of whom have been great to work with.

 

I am still thinking of the BOD, but that is something I can add later on.

 

Some pics of the work for your viewing pleasure.

 

Didn't quite get all the work done in time to prep the boat for the VARC Opener, but that is more my own fault due to my travel schedule for work, which is seriously interfering with my play these days.

 

Now, all I gotta figure out is the mast tune and how to make the boat go fast and "Ultraman" is set to go for the upcoming season. Good times ahead this summer!

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post-2097-1237990847_thumb.jpg

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The maststep of my Olson 30 has now been beautifully rebuilt by Trevor Salmon of TGS Boatworks and I went with the Jockstrap kit from Buzz Balengar. Both of whom have been great to work with.

 

I am still thinking of the BOD, but that is something I can add later on.

 

Some pics of the work for your viewing pleasure.

 

Didn't quite get all the work done in time to prep the boat for the VARC Opener, but that is more my own fault due to my travel schedule for work, which is seriously interfering with my play these days.

 

Now, all I gotta figure out is the mast tune and how to make the boat go fast and "Ultraman" is set to go for the upcoming season. Good times ahead this summer!

 

 

Can I ask how much that jock strap kit cost. Looks pretty nice. Do you have to buy it as a kit or can you just buy each piece seperately?

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i have an o-30 near you.

installed bod and jocks, to reduce the pressure on the chainplates ,

and allow you to put on more #'s in the rig and keep the tension in the rig.

not trying to fold your boat in half.

had my mast step replaced in granville island by SC Marine.

he did a great job ,quickly and good price. he also made a base tang for the jocks at the

same time.

i designed my BOD and jocks and had a local machinist make them up.

installed it in the water with no rig tension and installed larger bolts for the

attachment points.

the cost for my BOD and jocks came to 330$ can. installed.

post me if you want a view.

FB.

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The maststep of my Olson 30 has now been beautifully rebuilt by Trevor Salmon of TGS Boatworks and I went with the Jockstrap kit from Buzz Balengar. Both of whom have been great to work with.

 

I am still thinking of the BOD, but that is something I can add later on.

 

Some pics of the work for your viewing pleasure.

 

Didn't quite get all the work done in time to prep the boat for the VARC Opener, but that is more my own fault due to my travel schedule for work, which is seriously interfering with my play these days.

 

Now, all I gotta figure out is the mast tune and how to make the boat go fast and "Ultraman" is set to go for the upcoming season. Good times ahead this summer!

 

 

Can I ask how much that jock strap kit cost. Looks pretty nice. Do you have to buy it as a kit or can you just buy each piece seperately?

 

For the latest price call Buzz Balenger

Ballenger Spar Systems, Inc.

215 Walker St.

Watsonville, CA 95076

tel: 831-763-1196

fax: 831-763-1198

website: ballengerspars.com

email: buzzballenger@att.net

 

I bought everything all made up for US$360, but he will sell it in parts. Check the website for pricing.

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i have an o-30 near you.

installed bod and jocks, to reduce the pressure on the chainplates ,

and allow you to put on more #'s in the rig and keep the tension in the rig.

not trying to fold your boat in half.

had my mast step replaced in granville island by SC Marine.

he did a great job ,quickly and good price. he also made a base tang for the jocks at the

same time.

i designed my BOD and jocks and had a local machinist make them up.

installed it in the water with no rig tension and installed larger bolts for the

attachment points.

the cost for my BOD and jocks came to 330$ can. installed.

post me if you want a view.

FB.

Sent you a PM.

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The maststep of my Olson 30 has now been beautifully rebuilt by Trevor Salmon of TGS Boatworks and I went with the Jockstrap kit from Buzz Balengar. Both of whom have been great to work with.

 

I am still thinking of the BOD, but that is something I can add later on.

 

Some pics of the work for your viewing pleasure.

 

Didn't quite get all the work done in time to prep the boat for the VARC Opener, but that is more my own fault due to my travel schedule for work, which is seriously interfering with my play these days.

 

Now, all I gotta figure out is the mast tune and how to make the boat go fast and "Ultraman" is set to go for the upcoming season. Good times ahead this summer!

One last pic that I forgot to upload that gives a better view of the whole jock strap setup...

post-2097-1238094540_thumb.jpg

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The maststep of my Olson 30 has now been beautifully rebuilt by Trevor Salmon of TGS Boatworks and I went with the Jockstrap kit from Buzz Balengar. Both of whom have been great to work with.

 

I am still thinking of the BOD, but that is something I can add later on.

 

Some pics of the work for your viewing pleasure.

 

Didn't quite get all the work done in time to prep the boat for the VARC Opener, but that is more my own fault due to my travel schedule for work, which is seriously interfering with my play these days.

 

Now, all I gotta figure out is the mast tune and how to make the boat go fast and "Ultraman" is set to go for the upcoming season. Good times ahead this summer!

One last pic that I forgot to upload that gives a better view of the whole jock strap setup...

With more of a true mast step...think athwartship box beam (perhaps 2-3 feet wide at the base)...you would have less of a shin buster...AND the beam wouldn't be necessary because the angle of the stays (your current 'jockstrap') would NOT be busy trying to crush your deck into a narrower configuration ( think of the jock straps being more vertical instead of diagonal) Plus...structural weight down low won't hurt performance... (This is all based on the idea that you can do this within Class rules, right?????) with a wide base you get several benefits...a jock strap & BOD all in one AND you can still get to the front of the boat without an obstacle course.

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It's a vicious circle. Add the jock straps then need the BOD to keep the shrouds apart. I feel that if the mast step has been rebuilt and is structurally sound then the only addition would be the BOD to be able to add tension without fear of compression between the shrouds. The jock straps where designed as a quick fix for those that didn't want to take the time to properly fix their mast steps in the first place. Next thing that is gonna happen is popping the shrouds cause now you can crank on way too much tension. Vicious circle...

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