• Announcements

    • Zapata

      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

dickie greenleaf

Trailing edge keel repair

16 posts in this topic

Can you fellas suggest what would be needed to do some minor trailing edge keel repair?

 

There exists a small quarter-sized chunk that is missing from the trailing edge of my keel. The yard takes no direct responsibility, however, they said that they would give me whatever is needed to make the proper repair.

 

So, that being the case, can you point me in the proper direction? I've got a friend that could help, but I don't know what I would need.

 

As always, appreciating the responses from the SA community.

 

Thanks again.

 

DG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought this was an announcement for a voluntary recall by a manufacture :o:lol::lol::lol:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ok not really funny :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

easy fix, little thickened 5 minute epoxy or JB weld held in place with a clamp and couple plactic squeegees and it will be smooth and fair...touch up with some sandpaper...done. :D

 

Can you fellas suggest what would be needed to do some minor trailing edge keel repair?

 

There exists a small quarter-sized chunk that is missing from the trailing edge of my keel. The yard takes no direct responsibility, however, they said that they would give me whatever is needed to make the proper repair.

 

So, that being the case, can you point me in the proper direction? I've got a friend that could help, but I don't know what I would need.

 

As always, appreciating the responses from the SA community.

 

Thanks again.

 

DG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These typs of repairs are a nuisance as they keep re-appearing due to the lack of bondability of the edge.

1st question would be how thick is the keel trailing edge, and how thick is the forward end of the break?

If the front of the broken out part is less than 1/4" then you'll need to bevel one side of the edge of the area by about 1/2" and use an epoxy filler with microfibers. Either use a flat sheet of something with some mold release on it, or just use wax paper over somthing flat and press it against the side opposite the bevel. Use peel-ply or wax paper to give the goop some ability to stay in place.

Once that is cured, go to the other side and dish out the repair causing some bevel to the lead and apply more of your goop. The double bevel will help hold the repair in place.

If the damage edge of the keel is thicker than 14", then you can add a ss fastener fore/aft into the lead, then cut the head off so you'll have a threaded stud to add some structure to the repair. If the trailing edge of the keel is thicker than the head of the screw, then don't cut the head off the screw, then do the above repair method.

We don't need to say anything about sandpaper, filing, rasps, drills, tape, goggles, paint-suits & resperators, do we?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so not very big (we don't have quarters in the colonies). Couple of interesting products - epoxy filler, I use Norglass but I guess anything similar. Also that brown packing tape stuff.

 

I've put filler on then used the non sticky surface of the tape to lay it along the repair - it doesn't stick and the repair is pretty much acceptable with a nice glossy outer. With the trailing edge if you taped the reverse side along one side then fill then tape the other side.

 

The filler also has an interesting 'feature' after about an hour, you wet your finger (or gloved finger) and rub gently - you can smooth off the fill to a reasonable finish. Sanding is better of course but sailing or drinking beer is better still.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

West Systems 105/205 with high density microfibers mixture. Mix it to a nice density, set in place. Need painter tape and wax paper to hold in position. sand the next day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remember to wet the bonding area out with unthickened epoxy. Then the West with fillers will do the trick. If any rust prone metal is exposed, make sure you grind to rust free first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Remember to wet the bonding area out with unthickened epoxy. Then the West with fillers will do the trick. If any rust prone metal is exposed, make sure you grind to rust free first.

 

Better bet on rust is Ameron 235 and then use thickened west on it. You can also just use Ameron 140. The stuff is a REAL PIA to sand but will be there long after the keel's fallen off :ph34r:

 

If you use 140, make sure you use peelply, wax paper or reversed mylar tape (or any mylar film). If you need to clamp it, cut up a couple of plastic milk cartons and put those under the clamps...they are stiff enough to hold form but nearly nothing will stick to 'em.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks fellas.

 

I truly appreciate the advice.

 

Off to get the goo this weekend.

 

DG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The nick below in my keel trailing edge was repaired 2 seasons ago and has not reappeared. Job was done by a french yard, don't have more details, just filler I assumed.

 

post-3223-1239688419_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The nick below in my keel trailing edge was repaired 2 seasons ago and has not reappeared. Job was done by a french yard, don't have more details, just filler I assumed.

 

post-3223-1239688419_thumb.jpg

 

J/80?

 

Seriously, that is not a nick, it's a stress crack waiting to happen!

 

If the keel root is metal (rust makes it look like an iron keel) then that crack is on its way from the back, across the keel to the front, whereupon it may one day crack right off.

 

If it's the fibreglass sump, then it looks like a J/80 (all kidding aside it looks like a structural crack, not just cosmetic).

 

Seriously.

 

[edit - looks like the fibreglass sump, not the metal keel, but still I hope they ground the crack out (inside and out) and applied a structural repair to the area.]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That looks like a "C+C smile" to me.

 

C+C 41?

 

Most C&C's smile from the leading edge, or at least the older vintage (pre-Tartan) did.

 

-M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That looks like a "C+C smile" to me.

 

C+C 41?

 

Most C&C's smile from the leading edge, or at least the older vintage (pre-Tartan) did.

 

-M

 

The 41's complete the smile on both leading and trailing edges!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I heard from a couple of sources that it's a filler crack only, not unheard of. It's my understanding the sump is quite squared off. It's not rust but the colour of the filler material. Boat has done lots of miles since in all weathers and there has been not a trace of it reappearing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMO, you need to grind that crack to good material.

 

It does you ZERO good with that thing in the back of your mind in a significant seaway.

 

Make sure this isn't a structural issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites