[d'ranger]

I need a 4wd truck with a back seat and I can't afford what I really want right now. There are a number of 02 and 03 F150 Supercrew cab (has full back seat) and all are auto and 5.4L engines. There are many more of these for sale than similar models in Chevy or Dodge and to get diesel requires a 3/4 ton and lots more money.

I tried to hijack the other F150 thread and didn't get any hits. All I really need to know is if anyone knows of problems to look out for and whether to believe those who say they get 20mpg on the highway. I do know a few that get better than that but they are diesel with programmable chips. Towing is/will be minimal and isn't as big an issue as fuel economy and reliability. All that I am looking at have between 105k and 145k miles.

thanks in advance.

[Big Stuff]

03 here with 148,000 miles. Only problems were with the a/c only blowing out of the defroster and not the vents and broken power door locks. Would get another but I'm going to drive this till the wheels fall off.

[El Mariachi]

d, sure you don't want my '97 F350 c/cab 4x4? She's still available----and I might even deliver her for ya---if you know how to cook Tex-Mex and open beers properly.....:P

[d'ranger]

El Mariachi, on Jan 23 2010, 11:01 PM, said:

d, sure you don't want my '97 F350 c/cab 4x4? She's still available----and I might even deliver her for ya---if you know how to cook Tex-Mex and open beers properly.....:P

I can open beers good and I know where to get great Tex-Mex - I ruled out one tonners because of the miles I drive everyday and am picking trucks that make me look more prosperous than I currently am for image - I have to go from muddin to sales lots of days.

If this little enterprise takes off and I need a heavy hauler I will let you know - thanks for the offer and if you are ever around Houston let me know, will be glad to rustle up some grub and suds.

Big Stuff - thanks for replying - I expect that sort of thing and will deal with it. I am going to look at an 02 today with about those same miles that appears to be clean, if so I'll be in an F150 again. I am a big guy and will be glad to get up and out of a car.

[brown scented bilgewax]

Had two F-150s, the current one being an 01 super crew. I think they're a great freaking truck. Only problem we ever had w/ both of them was the occasional plug wire going bad. Seemed like that happened more than it should.

Great on the highway, even if you're pulling a load. Throw a tonneau cover on the back and they're on of the best regatta vehicles made too.

[El Mariachi]

brown scented bilgewax, on Jan 24 2010, 08:56 AM, said:

Had two F-150s, the current one being an 01 super crew. I think they're a great freaking truck. Only problem we ever had w/ both of them was the occasional plug wire going bad. Seemed like that happened more than it should.

Great on the highway, even if you're pulling a load. Throw a tonneau cover on the back and they're on of the best regatta vehicles made too.

It's worth going with the FMS 9mm plug wires next time. I got mine from Summit and I think they were less than $50.00 delivered.

(but ya gotta keep 'em properly routed and off the exhaust mani's :P)

[d'ranger]

El Mariachi, on Jan 24 2010, 11:25 AM, said:

brown scented bilgewax, on Jan 24 2010, 08:56 AM, said:

Had two F-150s, the current one being an 01 super crew. I think they're a great freaking truck. Only problem we ever had w/ both of them was the occasional plug wire going bad. Seemed like that happened more than it should.

Great on the highway, even if you're pulling a load. Throw a tonneau cover on the back and they're on of the best regatta vehicles made too.

It's worth going with the FMS 9mm plug wires next time. I got mine from Summit and I think they were less than $50.00 delivered.

(but ya gotta keep 'em properly routed and off the exhaust mani's :P)

More good advice - I bought an 02 today and had a buddy who is a body guy take a look at it (it had landed in a ditch on passenger side) and he has had the same problem with buying cheap plug wires for his 02. Major bitch changing plugs anyway - my buddy said definitely change the wires when changing plugs - the freakin fuel rail and coil makes plug changing a whole new experience. Now, to see how the electric 2/4h/4l works out. It will be great not having to get out to lock or unlock hubs in the mud.

thanks again for the info.

[swan70]

Everyone I know who owns an F-150 loves them.

Just don't get a Dodge truck, one of my buddies just got one and is really pissed off , he just found out the fucking wheels are plastic and is now afraid to drive it. I warned him they were shit :lol:

[Brian]

Good luck with that "20 mpg"... I had a '99 F150 with the 5.4 and was pretty happy when I got 16 on the highway. Not bashing the trucks, but any fullsize wouldn't be a recommendation if fuel economy was a concern.

[hard aground]

Brian, on Jan 25 2010, 04:47 PM, said:

Good luck with that "20 mpg"... I had a '99 F150 with the 5.4 and was pretty happy when I got 16 on the highway. Not bashing the trucks, but any fullsize wouldn't be a recommendation if fuel economy was a concern.

As long as I don't drive like an idiot I get around 20 in my 5.4L '01. Certainly not when towing either.....

[El Mariachi]

d, on Jan 24 2010, 02:03 PM, said:

More good advice - I bought an 02 today and had a buddy who is a body guy take a look at it (it had landed in a ditch on passenger side) and he has had the same problem with buying cheap plug wires for his 02. Major bitch changing plugs anyway - my buddy said definitely change the wires when changing plugs - the freakin fuel rail and coil makes plug changing a whole new experience. Now, to see how the electric 2/4h/4l works out. It will be great not having to get out to lock or unlock hubs in the mud.

thanks again for the info.

1). Warn Premium manual hubs are your friend. Trust me on this.

2). And if the electric t-case shift motor/SOTF system does fail you, well then I'll send you one of these things that I invented and am selling. On the house..........:P



(this thing)

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg229/sherekhan52/Shiftster1revised5-5-09038.jpg



(replaces this thing. It's the ultimate trail repair accessory, is half the price of the electric motor and is absolutely foolproof. Hell, even the Nursetta can dial-in 4 High or Low in less than 15 seconds........:P)

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg229/sherekhan52/1AFWM00006T-Caseshiftmotor.jpg


More here----> http://www.fullsizeb...light=shiftster







('scuse the web site---she's still under construction)

http://theshiftster.com/

[A_guy_in_the_Chesapeake]

El Mariachi, on Jan 25 2010, 09:07 PM, said:

d, on Jan 24 2010, 02:03 PM, said:

More good advice - I bought an 02 today and had a buddy who is a body guy take a look at it (it had landed in a ditch on passenger side) and he has had the same problem with buying cheap plug wires for his 02. Major bitch changing plugs anyway - my buddy said definitely change the wires when changing plugs - the freakin fuel rail and coil makes plug changing a whole new experience. Now, to see how the electric 2/4h/4l works out. It will be great not having to get out to lock or unlock hubs in the mud.

thanks again for the info.

1). Warn Premium manual hubs are your friend. Trust me on this.

2). And if the electric t-case shift motor/SOTF system does fail you, well then I'll send you one of these things that I invented and am selling. On the house..........:P



(this thing)

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg229/sherekhan52/Shiftster1revised5-5-09038.jpg



(replaces this thing. It's the ultimate trail repair accessory, is half the price of the electric motor and is absolutely foolproof. Hell, even the Nursetta can dial-in 4 High or Low in less than 15 seconds........:P)

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg229/sherekhan52/1AFWM00006T-Caseshiftmotor.jpg


More here----> http://www.fullsizeb...light=shiftster







('scuse the web site---she's still under construction)

http://theshiftster.com/

Hey Boothy - a little story and then a dumb question for ya:

Story: I've got an old '96 Blazer - and those have an electrically actuated, vacuum controlled locking mechanism for the front hubs. They also use an electric solenoid, actuated by the same button on the dashboard to shift the transfer case. The vacuum diaphragm that actuates the hub-locking mechanism is NOTORIOUS for tearing, and when that happens, the front hubs won't work.

After replacing the second diaphragm in 150K miles, I got pissed, and decided to work out something different: I ended up buying a locking cable for $35 from Autozone, and rigged IT to lock in the front hubs. My transfer case switch still works fine, and now I have the option of a 2L if I just need to pull something heavy, and traction is too good to lock in the front hubs.


Question: Reaching under the truck might be a bit of a bother (especially if it's already muddy) - is there any way that your device could be actuated from inside the cab, perhaps via a remote cable connected to a bellcrank?

Just a thought -

AGITC

[El Mariachi]

A_guy_in_the_Chesapeake, on Jan 26 2010, 01:48 AM, said:

Hey Boothy - a little story and then a dumb question for ya:

Story: I've got an old '96 Blazer - and those have an electrically actuated, vacuum controlled locking mechanism for the front hubs. They also use an electric solenoid, actuated by the same button on the dashboard to shift the transfer case. The vacuum diaphragm that actuates the hub-locking mechanism is NOTORIOUS for tearing, and when that happens, the front hubs won't work.

After replacing the second diaphragm in 150K miles, I got pissed, and decided to work out something different: I ended up buying a locking cable for $35 from Autozone, and rigged IT to lock in the front hubs. My transfer case switch still works fine, and now I have the option of a 2L if I just need to pull something heavy, and traction is too good to lock in the front hubs.


So are you saying that that your front hubs are now locked all the time? (and are they auto hubs?)


Question: Reaching under the truck might be a bit of a bother (especially if it's already muddy) - is there any way that your device could be actuated from inside the cab, perhaps via a remote cable connected to a bellcrank?

Just a thought -



The S-1 is designed for a quick trail repair (if and when) the electric motor shits-out on you when you're off road and you really need to get the truck home. It's also a much cheaper alternative to replacing the motor and/or trying to fix the overly complicated SOTF system that Ford used on millions of their trucks. We've been using ours for a year now and lust lock the t-case in 4-high or 4-low before we actually need it.


As far as a version that you can shift from inside the cab, I've got a patent on that one too-----still working out a couple of bugs before it hits the market, as it's a bit more complicated to design than one would first think.






AGITC

[A_guy_in_the_Chesapeake]

El Mariachi, on Jan 26 2010, 11:27 AM, said:

A_guy_in_the_Chesapeake, on Jan 26 2010, 01:48 AM, said:

Hey Boothy - a little story and then a dumb question for ya:



So are you saying that that your front hubs are now locked all the time? (and are they auto hubs?)

No sir - not at all. My apologies for a confusing description.

What I'm saying is that instead of the little button on the dash locking the hubs AND shifting the transfer-case - now, it just shifts the transfer case. To lock the hubsIn the original configuration, the dash-button actuated an electric solenoid on the transmission that in turn sent vacuum to a diaphragm under the battery - this diaphragm has a cable connecting it to the hub actuator.

SO - I left all the electrical/vacuum stuff hooked up EXCEPT the cable to the hub actuator, and this keeps the computer happy. I disconnected the cable between the vacuum diaphragm and the hub actuator, and instead ran a locking cable from inside the cab to the hub actuator. To lock the front hubs, I pull the little locking cable I installed (handle under the dash), and twist it 1/4 turn to lock it into place. To unlock, twist the cable 1/4 turn and push it in. The generic cable was about $35 - and a made a clip to connnect it to the hub actuator.

If I don't pull the cable, and put the transfer case into 4L, the front hubs are freewheeling, which makes it easy to pull something heavy up a steep ramp and to be able to turn on dry pavement without having the axle bind that comes w/locked hubs and no wheel slippage.



Question: Reaching under the truck might be a bit of a bother (especially if it's already muddy) - is there any way that your device could be actuated from inside the cab, perhaps via a remote cable connected to a bellcrank?

Just a thought -



The S-1 is designed for a quick trail repair (if and when) the electric motor shits-out on you when you're off road and you really need to get the truck home. It's also a much cheaper alternative to replacing the motor and/or trying to fix the overly complicated SOTF system that Ford used on millions of their trucks. We've been using ours for a year now and lust lock the t-case in 4-high or 4-low before we actually need it.


As far as a version that you can shift from inside the cab, I've got a patent on that one too-----still working out a couple of bugs before it hits the market, as it's a bit more complicated to design than one would first think.

AHHHH! I didn't reallize that this was a field expedient method. Makes more sense!

AGITC

[d'ranger]

Thanks for the info on the 4wd - I will keep it in mind especially when I find out how often I will need it. So far I am very happy with the truck - it needed new shoes badly so put some BFG ATs - 285/75/16, it wasn't certain that it could carry it without a lift hit but my guy mounted one to show it would with no problem. Looks much better than the 245s that were on it and should really help if I am ever really in the muck. Now it looks like a truck rather than a car with a bed.

Just got to get used to digging a lot deeper at the pump.

[El Mariachi]

d, on Jan 30 2010, 06:15 PM, said:

Thanks for the info on the 4wd - I will keep it in mind especially when I find out how often I will need it. So far I am very happy with the truck - it needed new shoes badly so put some BFG ATs - 285/75/16, it wasn't certain that it could carry it without a lift hit but my guy mounted one to show it would with no problem. Looks much better than the 245s that were on it and should really help if I am ever really in the muck. Now it looks like a truck rather than a car with a bed.

Just got to get used to digging a lot deeper at the pump.

Christmas is coming sooner than you think. Ask Santa for a 6" lift, some Warn Premium manual hubs, some 4:55's/4:56's and two pair of Mickey's 35" A/T's.........:P

[Grrr...]

d, on Jan 24 2010, 05:03 PM, said:

Major bitch changing plugs anyway - my buddy said definitely change the wires when changing plugs - the freakin fuel rail and coil makes plug changing a whole new experience. Now, to see how the electric 2/4h/4l works out. It will be great not having to get out to lock or unlock hubs in the mud.

Be very very very very very careful. I can't stress this enough. Either change those plugs OFTEN, or do NOT change them. Make damn sure you use antiseize on them.

The 5.4L's had some issues around that time frame when they tried to go to a partial thread spark plug. The carbon build up in the cylinder cemented the plug in place, and sometimes removing them rips the threads out with the plugs.

Really it's the only knock on a great engine and a very good vehicle.