205 replies to this topic

[Cherie320]

West Coast has similar problem. Big runoff = brown water. But then a few white caps lighten it right up.

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[Cherie320]

And it looks like the Gulf Coast is getting brown water that does not lighten up.

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[memopad]

The harbour up here is always a bit silty in the spring as well. And by silty i mean you can only see 30ft down instead of 40.

[Cavelamb]

You sure it was dirt??

Done EVEN go there!

[Cavelamb]

I hate you people that know how to work with wood so well. I'm envious.

Well, mate, this outta make you feel better.

http://www.marisystems.com/ellipticat/moaning.htm

All TOO often...

[mrgnstrn]

M-

You had that big dog out on your boat? Wow.

He speaks the truth folks. There is a liveaboard couple in Annapolis on a large catamaran. They have a piece of Astro up on the bow and that's where the dog goes. They said it only took a day or too to train their dog.

that "big dog" only looks big because he is wicked fluffy. he's only ~45lbs, and when he's had a haircut (like happened today), he is very skinny under all that hair.

-m

[CrazyR]

I had to cut out 1/3 of aft cabin sole on my Freedom 28. Fuel tank under sole was leaking and area around mast step was rotting. Structural repairs were done, now I looked at replacing teak and hole plywood. At $300 a sheet, there is no much room for mistakes, so I decided to make templets out of cheap Lowe's plywood first. Then I found a can of stain in my locker. Then I though that if I just sand off a top stained lay of plywood, I may get a nice white line, hm..

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[bljones]

Companionway doors. Last week's project while I was being an idiot.


Hey, isn't there a thread around here somewhere on hatchboards/doors? I couldn't find it, but I picked up some good ideas from temptress. Thanks!

[Cavelamb]

Companionway doors. Last week's project while I was being an idiot.


Hey, isn't there a thread around here somewhere on hatchboards/doors? I couldn't find it, but I picked up some good ideas from temptress. Thanks!

(VERY big grin!)
You are very welcome, jones!

That looks Good!
Can't wait to see them installed.

You know, of ALL the projects I've done on this boat, those doors the handiest
and my absolute favorite. You're gonna like them!

[Cavelamb]

I finally dragged my sagging asymmetrical ass up out of the Moaning Chair,
made a LEFT side fiddle (hey, That should be handy!) , and started varnishing and painting.

Which is more boring?
Watching varnish dry?

Or pictures of varnish drying???

So while the varnish dried this thread sank 10 - 12 fathoms deep?
We need some more help here guys!

Anyway...

Today the laminate went on the table and was trimmed down, the pieces all went back together
(and they fit still! That's a yea!)

I set the fiddles in place for a dry fit...
and tried it out... First beer...

Guess what? It works!

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[INFIDEL]

So where do dogs... go when cruising on boats anyway?

I looked into that a bunch when we got a dog.

The internet (which tells no lies) said that a piece of astro-turf/green porch carpet sprinkled with ode-de-puppy-pee would give the signal to the dog to do business there.

Then you take the soiled carpet and toss it overboard to clean it off.

you either tie a line around a corner (with a sheet bend obviously), or put a big grommet in the corner of the carpet and tie off to that.

We only had one chance to use it. it worked, the dog peed where required, and it drained off the deck. a bucket of seawater later and nobody was any the wiser.

-M

Arent' you supposed to hit a marina and have the dog pumped out??? Just sayin'...... :0)
Regards
INFIDEL

[Ajax]

I finally dragged my sagging asymmetrical ass up out of the Moaning Chair,
made a LEFT side fiddle (hey, That should be handy!) , and started varnishing and painting.

Which is more boring?
Watching varnish dry?

Or pictures of varnish drying???

So while the varnish dried this thread sank 10 - 12 fathoms deep?
We need some more help here guys!

Anyway...

Today the laminate went on the table and was trimmed down, the pieces all went back together
(and they fit still! That's a yea!)

I set the fiddles in place for a dry fit...
and tried it out... First beer...

Guess what? It works!

Wow, looks damned good!

[Cavelamb]

Wow, looks damned good!

Some modifications are to make the boat work better.
Some are to add value.
Some are just because we want it that way,
and some are just to show off.

I think this one belongs squarely in that last category...

[bljones]

Low-buck/ no-buck sandpaper cutter:

http://docksixchroni...per-cutter.html

[bljones]

and some are just to show off.

I think this one belongs squarely in that last category...

Bullshit. It keeps the booze on the table and off the sole. Therefore, it may be one of the most important mods on your boat.

Nice work.

[SereneSpeed]

Low-buck/ no-buck sandpaper cutter:

http://docksixchroni...per-cutter.html

What are you using for sandpaper on the longboards... How do you span the length of the board? How are you keeping it attached to the boards?

Thanks!

[bljones]

Low-buck/ no-buck sandpaper cutter:

http://docksixchroni...per-cutter.html

What are you using for sandpaper on the longboards... How do you span the length of the board? How are you keeping it attached to the boards?

Thanks!

Serene,
Lee Valley Tools sells adhesive backed sandpaper on 2 1/2" x 30' rolls. Which I keep on a low-buck roll-rack.

http://www.leevalley...179&cat=1,42500

[Cavelamb]

Low-buck/ no-buck sandpaper cutter:

http://docksixchroni...per-cutter.html

What are you using for sandpaper on the longboards... How do you span the length of the board? How are you keeping it attached to the boards?

Thanks!

Serene,
Lee Valley Tools sells adhesive backed sandpaper on 2 1/2" x 30' rolls. Which I keep on a low-buck roll-rack.

http://www.leevalley...179&cat=1,42500

I've been looking for a reasonable source for sticky rolls of sandpaper.
That's a keeper.
Thanks

[bljones]

Lee Valley is one of those dangerous stores like Costco- No matter how little is on my list when I walk in, I always walk out at least $200 poorer.

[PNW Matt B]

While I agree about the dangers of Lee Valley, that's actually a great price. I'd been getting it from an autobody supplier for about $25/roll - I don't know why Lee Valley didn't show up in my google search.

[Cavelamb]

While I agree about the dangers of Lee Valley, that's actually a great price. I'd been getting it from an autobody supplier for about $25/roll -
I don't know why Lee Valley didn't show up in my google search.

I picked up one of those new-fangled Dremel Multi-Max tools - the 3 degree of wiggle things.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=Multi-Max

The saw blades have turned out to be really handy - makes some of the really awkward jobs really easy.
(I'll dig up pics and post a couple examples)

Problem arises with the triangular sanding head. Well, not the head itslef, but the sandpaper that goes on it.

It's Velcro backed, expensive as girls, and not very aggressive stuff.

Cutting up Velcro disks from Home Despot sucks because they all have holes in them that leave part of the sanding head exposed.

I've been trying to find Velcro backed flat sheets to make triangles with...

120, 220, maybe 320-400???

[PNW Matt B]

I picked up one of those new-fangled Dremel Multi-Max tools - the 3 degree of wiggle things.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=Multi-Max

The saw blades have turned out to be really handy - makes some of the really awkward jobs really easy.
(I'll dig up pics and post a couple examples)

Problem arises with the triangular sanding head. Well, not the head itslef, but the sandpaper that goes on it.

It's Velcro backed, expensive as girls, and not very aggressive stuff.

Cutting up Velcro disks from Home Despot sucks because they all have holes in them that leave part of the sanding head exposed.

I've been trying to find Velcro backed flat sheets to make triangles with...

120, 220, maybe 320-400???

For sheet sandpaper I use Grainger or McMaster-Carr, but I don't know of any velcro-backed sheets other than the ones made for the tool. Though Grainger at least has packs of that cheaper than the big box home supply stores.

[bljones]

what I did with my multi-tool velcro- faced sanding head is eliminate the need for velcor altogether. I cut a piece out of a plastic putty spreader, using one of the proprietary over-priced sanding pads as a template. I then sprayed some adhesive on it, and rolled on a piece of fuzzy velcro. I attached it to the sanding head, and now I have a surface that will accept adhesive sandpaper, which you can buy by the roll at Lee Valley.. tear a piece off, slap it on the sander, trim to fit, and off you go.
Those of you not able to tear a piece off before getting some real work done can rub one out in the bathroom, or in the shower, or whatever it is those of you who aren't getting any have to do.

[Cavelamb]

what I did with my multi-tool velcro- faced sanding head is eliminate the need for velcor altogether. I cut a piece out of a plastic putty spreader, using one of the proprietary over-priced sanding pads as a template. I then sprayed some adhesive on it, and rolled on a piece of fuzzy velcro. I attached it to the sanding head, and now I have a surface that will accept adhesive sandpaper, which you can buy by the roll at Lee Valley.. tear a piece off, slap it on the sander, trim to fit, and off you go.
Those of you not able to tear a piece off before getting some real work done can rub one out in the bathroom, or in the shower, or whatever it is those of you who aren't getting any have to do.

I ain't going there, BJ...

Rather than reproduce the whole mess here, how about a link back to my site...
http://www.home.eart...e.htm#waterstop

But for a teaser...


The problem was that the bottom of the head wall is raw unfinished plywood.
And edge-grain plywood LOVES to suck up water.
And water in plywood LOVES to make mold,
Which leads to wood rot...

The Multi-Max flush cut saw blade made this little job - fun.

Otherwise howinthehell are you going to cut 1/4" off the bottom of a plywood wall while it's still in the boat???



This?
(!wall02.jpg)

or this?
(wall07.jpg)

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[Cavelamb]

Wow, looks damned good!

Some modifications are to make the boat work better.
Some are to add value.
Some are just because we want it that way,
and some are just to show off.

I think this one belongs squarely in that last category...

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•  p_00010.jpg   317.5K   28 downloads

[Cavelamb]

This one is even cheaper than a resistor!

And it really really works, too!

When disassembling things, KEEP THE SCREWS ORGANIZED!
The pic shows one way...

Otherwise you wind up with a can of mixed screws and no idea what goes where...

Working on the head wall, I had disassembled a lot of stuff to get the wall partly loose.
Trim pieces, door hinges, wall attachment screws, etc.
This one was pretty involved.
So what I did was draw a rough sketch of the wall, circle areas of common screws and
number the areas. Then the screws were collected in baggies, NUMBERED according to
the sketch, and stashed in a gallon baggie - WITH THE SKETCH.

A half dozen baggies - .$0.10
Knowing what screws go where? - Priceless!

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[Just Bob]

This one is even cheaper than a resistor!

And it really really works, too!

When disassembling things, KEEP THE SCREWS ORGANIZED!
The pic shows one way...

Otherwise you wind up with a can of mixed screws and no idea what goes where...

Working on the head wall, I had disassembled a lot of stuff to get the wall partly loose.
Trim pieces, door hinges, wall attachment screws, etc.
This one was pretty involved.
So what I did was draw a rough sketch of the wall, circle areas of common screws and
number the areas. Then the screws were collected in baggies, NUMBERED according to
the sketch, and stashed in a gallon baggie - WITH THE SKETCH.

A half dozen baggies - .$0.10
Knowing what screws go where? - Priceless!

You must love building flat pak stuff

There are many time i wish I had been as organised as you, especially when you kick over the can of screws.

[Cavelamb]

This one is even cheaper than a resistor!

And it really really works, too!

When disassembling things, KEEP THE SCREWS ORGANIZED!
The pic shows one way...

Otherwise you wind up with a can of mixed screws and no idea what goes where...

Working on the head wall, I had disassembled a lot of stuff to get the wall partly loose.
Trim pieces, door hinges, wall attachment screws, etc.
This one was pretty involved.
So what I did was draw a rough sketch of the wall, circle areas of common screws and
number the areas. Then the screws were collected in baggies, NUMBERED according to
the sketch, and stashed in a gallon baggie - WITH THE SKETCH.

A half dozen baggies - .$0.10
Knowing what screws go where? - Priceless!

You must love building flat pak stuff

There are many time i wish I had been as organised as you, especially when you kick over the can of screws.

I love building ONE of anything....
It's the run from Serial Number 2 - on that loses my interest...

Who would want to build the same thing every day???

Or is that just me?

YMMV.

[Just Bob]

I love building ONE of anything....
It's the run from Serial Number 2 - on that loses my interest...

Who would want to build the same thing every day???

Or is that just me?

YMMV.

Nice job on the table, but yet another thing I had to look up YMMV... Yachts Make Men Voluptuous. WTF

[Ajax]

Just Bob- Your Mileage May Vary.

[Just Bob]

Just Bob- Your Mileage May Vary.

I guess the Friday night drinking bird can catch the early worm in the USA. TX Ajax have an excellent day

[mrgnstrn]

This one is even cheaper than a resistor!

And it really really works, too!

When disassembling things, KEEP THE SCREWS ORGANIZED!
The pic shows one way...

Otherwise you wind up with a can of mixed screws and no idea what goes where...

Working on the head wall, I had disassembled a lot of stuff to get the wall partly loose.
Trim pieces, door hinges, wall attachment screws, etc.
This one was pretty involved.
So what I did was draw a rough sketch of the wall, circle areas of common screws and
number the areas. Then the screws were collected in baggies, NUMBERED according to
the sketch, and stashed in a gallon baggie - WITH THE SKETCH.

A half dozen baggies - .$0.10
A Sharpie Permanent Marker - $0.75
Knowing what screws go where? - Priceless!

Fixed it for you.

I must have a dozen sharpies on board, stashed in every concievable cabinet, drawer, and pocket.

-M

[mrgnstrn]

This "low-buck" investment is pricey at first, and way cheaper in the long run:

A label maker. ~$25 investment but hundreds and hundreds of $0.05 labels result.

-Electrical wires
-Clutch handles (outside and [b]inside [/b] of each)
-instrument hints (like: "Depth in Fathoms" or "Depth in Meters" on your depth sounder if something other feet, or vice versa for you non-seppos)
-Crew/self reminders (like "close sea cock after using head.")
-Where to store things ("Winch handles here." "Spin sheets here")

Seriously, buy one and leave it on board for a month. If you don't end up with labels everywhere, you aren't really thinking creatively.

-M

[Cavelamb]

[/quote]

Fixed it for you.

I must have a dozen sharpies on board, stashed in every concievable cabinet, drawer, and pocket.

-M
[/quote]

Thanks!


Ok, moving on....

How many can splice their own lines?

3 laid is easy enough, but what about double braid???

[bljones]

Boom!

http://docksixchronicles.blogspot.com/2011/05/splash-progress.html

[Cavelamb]

Boom!

http://docksixchroni...h-progress.html

Ya done real good, pilgrim!

All the new furniture fit first time out?
That's impressive all by itself!

[Cavelamb]

This one is even cheaper than a resistor!

And it really really works, too!

When disassembling things, KEEP THE SCREWS ORGANIZED!
The pic shows one way...

Otherwise you wind up with a can of mixed screws and no idea what goes where...

Working on the head wall, I had disassembled a lot of stuff to get the wall partly loose.
Trim pieces, door hinges, wall attachment screws, etc.
This one was pretty involved.
So what I did was draw a rough sketch of the wall, circle areas of common screws and
number the areas. Then the screws were collected in baggies, NUMBERED according to
the sketch, and stashed in a gallon baggie - WITH THE SKETCH.

A half dozen baggies - .$0.10
A Sharpie Permanent Marker - $0.75
Knowing what screws go where? - Priceless!

Fixed it for you.

I must have a dozen sharpies on board, stashed in every concievable cabinet, drawer, and pocket.

-M

Amortize the cost of the marker over all the marks it makes and the cost disappears...

[blackjenner]

Boom!

http://docksixchroni...h-progress.html

Nicely done. My compliments.

[Cavelamb]

I have to qualify my 'low buck' fix.

I rebuilt my dodger. I probably have less than $100 in material.

HOWEVER

My 'training' costs consist of virtually making the dodger twice. Plus, I bought a sailrite LSZ1-like sewing machine for $300.

Any business oriented professional will tell you the $300 is charged off to physical plant capital costs and the training is just overhead. To figure out the portion of the cost you would assign to the project you'd divide the $300+ by the number of projects you expect to be able to do in the future.

I just cut the corner and married a seamstress. She's even been making full-size, finished nylon battle flags for the racing boats that ask for them.

She is, of course, awesome...

[Poda]

This one is even cheaper than a resistor!

And it really really works, too!

When disassembling things, KEEP THE SCREWS ORGANIZED!
The pic shows one way...

Otherwise you wind up with a can of mixed screws and no idea what goes where...

Working on the head wall, I had disassembled a lot of stuff to get the wall partly loose.
Trim pieces, door hinges, wall attachment screws, etc.
This one was pretty involved.
So what I did was draw a rough sketch of the wall, circle areas of common screws and
number the areas. Then the screws were collected in baggies, NUMBERED according to
the sketch, and stashed in a gallon baggie - WITH THE SKETCH.

A half dozen baggies - .$0.10
Knowing what screws go where? - Priceless!

I do the exact same thing..

The sink in my boat is filled with zip-lock bags containing screws, fasteners, etc with a piece of paper labeling what they're for (bulkhead bolts, chainplates, etc), and I have a notebook with all the diagrams and where stuff fits. I still know which screws go where almost a year after initial dis-assembly.. Reassembly is going to be a snap!

An undesired side effect is that I've developed a fetish for zip-lock bags and I save every small one I come across. I feel like I'm "wasting" it if I throw it out I probably have enough now for 3 complete rebuilds

[Cavelamb]

Here is one I found wandering around the net...
Don't know what boat, but I admire his approach...

It's an interesting approach to solving two questions at once.
First, the doors open all the way back against the deckhouse, and
two, no high step-over at the bottom (like mine).

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[Ajax]

Damn, that sure looks good. I wonder what kind of wood he used.

[Ishmael]

Damn, that sure looks good. I wonder what kind of wood he used.

It's all about the varnish job. Nice varnish job, great depth. I might guess at Baltic Birch (or aircraft grade, whatever has the waterproof glue), maybe with a light stain.
A good job in utilizing the plywood to maximize the cuts. However...I would have bookmatched the doors and used a plainer piece for the base.

Jeez, forgive me I'm feeling bitchy tonight. I have an ancient teak hatchboard epoxied and filled and painted white. But it's well painted.

[Cavelamb]

Damn, that sure looks good. I wonder what kind of wood he used.

It's all about the varnish job. Nice varnish job, great depth. I might guess at Baltic Birch (or aircraft grade, whatever has the waterproof glue), maybe with a light stain.
A good job in utilizing the plywood to maximize the cuts. However...I would have bookmatched the doors and used a plainer piece for the base.

Jeez, forgive me I'm feeling bitchy tonight. I have an ancient teak hatchboard epoxied and filled and painted white. But it's well painted.

I thought Baltic Birch to, but with a West epoxy coating.
Use old dark catalyst and get that deep beautiful tone for free.
THEN a few coats of varnish to add UV protection.

But who knows? It might even be Bristol?

As a note to Mr. Bitchy (I'll forgive you if you forgive me?)
It's awful hard to book match a sheet of plywood...

As for your hatchboard?
Pics or tits?

[Occams Razor]

you see a hatch like that - and wonder why we even bother with lock on our boats.

All the hinge screws are exposed.

Of course - I have a nice lewmar ocean hatch - a big one - on the foredeck that isn't lockable - at least I don't think it is.

And my main hatch hasp could likely be busted out with a swift kick.

I dunno - the exposed hinges just look off.


Guess I'm feeling bitchy too.

[PNW Matt B]

you see a hatch like that - and wonder why we even bother with lock on our boats.

All the hinge screws are exposed.

Of course - I have a nice lewmar ocean hatch - a big one - on the foredeck that isn't lockable - at least I don't think it is.

And my main hatch hasp could likely be busted out with a swift kick.

I dunno - the exposed hinges just look off.


Guess I'm feeling bitchy too.

We lock our boats so someone will have to do something visible to get in without a key. That's about the best we can do for security, other than restricted-access marinas and security guards that know their boats and owners.

[Cavelamb]

you see a hatch like that - and wonder why we even bother with lock on our boats.

All the hinge screws are exposed.

Of course - I have a nice lewmar ocean hatch - a big one - on the foredeck that isn't lockable - at least I don't think it is.

And my main hatch hasp could likely be busted out with a swift kick.

I dunno - the exposed hinges just look off.


Guess I'm feeling bitchy too.

We lock our boats so someone will have to do something visible to get in without a key. That's about the best we can do for security, other than restricted-access marinas and security guards that know their boats and owners.

Locks only keep out honest people...

[Ajax]

I agree. Small sailboats just aren't inherently vault-secure like a brick-and-mortar house. One thing you could do for the picture in question though, is try to find some odd headed fasteners like torx head screws or something even more proprietary. Most casual thieves don't carry specialized tools like a full set of torx bits.

[Auspicious]

Small sailboats just aren't inherently vault-secure like a brick-and-mortar house.

Most houses aren't very secure either. My Mom's purse got stolen with her keys AND my Dad's keys in it. I didn't have my keys with me at work and going home for them didn't seem a good idea with someone wondering around with keys and the address. A quick stop for a couple of tools at the hardware store and I yanked the kitchen window out of the rough-in within about 20 minutes. It cost more to rekey the house than to put a new window in.

I burglar could go faster with a battery-powered sawzall instead of a hacksaw.

My boat is at least as secure as my house ever was. Heck, I never had an alarm on the house!

[Ajax]

True enough. My house is a joy to live in, but it's not very secure. I have so many large windows, that it's absurd. If the zombie apocolypse were ever to occur, my house would be a very bad place to make a stand.

[blackjenner]

you see a hatch like that - and wonder why we even bother with lock on our boats.

All the hinge screws are exposed.

Could it be the nuts on the back sides are set so the screws cannot be simply undone from the outside?

[Innocent Bystander]

I'm a believer that most boats should be secure enough that somethign chep has to be broken to get in. That's why I like a cheap hasp and padlock. Can be broken with a large screwdriver which is evidence of forced entry for the insurers but is not likely to do expensive damage to the boat in the process. If somebody wants in bad enough, they will get in. The basic lock keeps out the curious and teenage vandals.

Then again I live in a very low crime area. Some of my neighbors have full blown monitored alarm systems and some leave their houses unlocked. None seem to have a theft problem....

[Soñadora]

at my former marina, I rarely locked the boat and the key was always left in the ignition.

Of course, the marina owner is the Midwest's version of Walking Tall (the '73 version)

[Cavelamb]

So I got the idea for this thread as a one-stop shop for all the smaller projects from another site, and there was tons of good info there - I think the CA mentality here is a lot more conducive to "alternate methods" however and I'm willing to bet we have some creative tinkerers around here that have found cheaper (but emphasis on safe and reliable) solutions to the traditional "marine-grade" fare, or simply because you think you can do a better job than what's readily available.. I know some folk (including me) like to try to make things just to see if they can instead of buying even if it costs a little more, so let's see those too..

So let's see 'em.. A lot of us are frugal bastards so let's try to keep the total cost down to under $100 or so, although if you spent 5 bills building something that would cost 5 grand retail that would work too..

I'd start, but while I have a couple of projects in the starting phases I have nothing worthwhile to show, and no pics. I plan to remedy that this weekend and finish at least one of them to put up here..

This has turned out to be a very popular and useful thread, Poda.
Good on ya'...

[bljones]

I gotta brag on myself.

The low-buck cabin, squared away.


http://docksixchroni...uared-away.html

$12 spice rack installed,

[Poda]

Nice BL!

I'll have pics on the weekend of my sub $60 sheet of ply that turned into bulkheads, 3 cupboard frames and doors, and backing blocks for the throughulls. Still have some left over for a small shelf or galley table.. not sure what yet.

Cavelamb - thanks, but the credit belongs to BL for the original idea.. I just moved it on over here so I'll take that portion of the credit

[hard aground]

I gotta brag on myself.

The low-buck cabin, squared away.


http://docksixchroni...uared-away.html

$12 spice rack installed,

Ummm, do you store the spice shakers away when you go sailing? I can't imagine any of them staying there in even the most moderate chop.

[Cavelamb]

I gotta brag on myself.

The low-buck cabin, squared away.

Jones,

That is indeed a squared away cabin and I love the "nap station" moniker.
But that "table cloth" has got to go!

[bljones]

Hard, we'll see how the spice shaker experiment works out. if they shake right off in the chop, then I'll come up with a plan b.
There is always a plan b.

Cave, the tablecoth is a compromise. In other words, I prefer sleeping aboard to sleeping on the dock, so I gave in, er, compromised.

[Ajax]

BL-

Velcro on the bases of the spice containers and the back of the slots on the spice rack.

[blackjenner]

BL-

Velcro on the bases of the spice containers and the back of the slots on the spice rack.

This reminds me of something.

When I was a kid, my dad had this setup in his garage for holding various sizes of screws, nails, parts and pieces.


He'd screw/nail the lid of a jar to the underside of a shelf. He's put the stuff in the jar, then screw the jar into the lid. When you wanted something you used *one hand* to unscrew the jar, take the part you want out with your other hand, and use *one hand* to put the jar back.

I thought it was pretty brilliant.

[bljones]

I gotta brag on myself.

The low-buck cabin, squared away.


http://docksixchroni...uared-away.html

$12 spice rack installed,

Ummm, do you store the spice shakers away when you go sailing? I can't imagine any of them staying there in even the most moderate chop.

hard,
Spice jars sea-tested last weekend- all six stayed where placed, even when heeled to the rail, even when bouncing through Searay wakes. Now, if they were filled with nuts and bolts and nails, I could see them leaping to the sole, but with only light leaves and powders like rosemary, thyme, cumin, etc., it seems to be fine.

[bljones]

New low-buck stern perch/cockpit table...

http://docksixchroni...-of-week-2.html

And for those of us who ain't too proud to admit to a modicum of white-trashiness, a really low-buck cockpit table:

http://docksixchroni...ct-of-week.html

[smackdaddy]

I have to admit bl, you're pretty good at this stuff. You're like a modern day Fred Sanford.

[Cavelamb]

Thanks for the bump, Smack.
But now you have to listen to me sing! (LOL!)

"I'm fixing a hole where the rain comes in - that keeps my mind from wandering..."

Now whas dat fool white boy tink he doin now? fiberglassin a coke bottle!

It's really simple. I couldn't find one on the net that I knew would fit!

For the rest of the story.... http://www.home.eart...tress/parts.htm

Attached Files

•  frp0001.jpg   63.75K   8 downloads

[blackjenner]

Thanks for the bump, Smack.
But now you have to listen to me sing! (LOL!)

"I'm fixing a hole where the rain comes in - that keeps my mind from wandering..."

Now whas dat fool white boy tink he doin now? fiberglassin a coke bottle!

It's really simple. I couldn't find one on the net that I knew would fit!

For the rest of the story.... http://www.home.eart...tress/parts.htm

Damn! That's beautiful work. So when someone asks where you got that, you can smile a little and say, "Uh made it."

Nicely done.

[Cavelamb]

Thanks for the bump, Smack.
But now you have to listen to me sing! (LOL!)

"I'm fixing a hole where the rain comes in - that keeps my mind from wandering..."

Now whas dat fool white boy tink he doin now? fiberglassin a coke bottle!

It's really simple. I couldn't find one on the net that I knew would fit!

For the rest of the story.... http://www.home.eart...tress/parts.htm

Damn! That's beautiful work. So when someone asks where you got that, you can smile a little and say, "Uh made it."

Nicely done.

Yeah, but I don't think the believe me.

Dorothy said it "looked like store-bought".
But she watched me make it, so I think she believes me.
One never knows with women...

[Ajax]

I have to admit bl, you're pretty good at this stuff. You're like a modern day Fred Sanford.

Cue funky 70's music.

[bljones]

"It looks like store-bought" is a compliment when it comes from your wife, aimed at you, pertaining to boat projects.
"It looks like store-bought" is an insult when it comes from your mother, aimed at your wife, pertaining to birthday cake.

Nice work!

[Ajax]

Thanks for the bump, Smack.
But now you have to listen to me sing! (LOL!)

"I'm fixing a hole where the rain comes in - that keeps my mind from wandering..."

Now whas dat fool white boy tink he doin now? fiberglassin a coke bottle!

It's really simple. I couldn't find one on the net that I knew would fit!

For the rest of the story.... http://www.home.eart...tress/parts.htm

Damn! That's beautiful work. So when someone asks where you got that, you can smile a little and say, "Uh made it."

Nicely done.

Yeah, but I don't think the believe me.

Dorothy said it "looked like store-bought".
But she watched me make it, so I think she believes me.
One never knows with women...

You gotta be kidding me. That's amazing, it does look store-bought! I've never worked with gelcoat. I'm going to have to get some and try it out. I have several chips and dings I'd like to fix. The color match doesn't even have to be perfect.

[bljones]

I have to admit bl, you're pretty good at this stuff. You're like a modern day Fred Sanford.

Thank you, you big dummy.

[Cavelamb]

You gotta be kidding me. That's amazing, it does look store-bought! I've never worked with gelcoat. I'm going to have to get some and try it out. I have several chips and dings I'd like to fix. The color match doesn't even have to be perfect.

It will help to try hard for a good color match, Ajax.
Otherwise that spot will haunt you til the final trumpet calls...
(out damn spot!)

It's not that hard to do - just take your time, and use toothpick tips of color instead of whole drops.
(that's for small mixes anyway)

When the color looks right, catalyze and fill.

THEN the fun starts. Sanding and smoothing without damaging the surrounding area.
Fun!

I've had good results filling small dings with Marine-Tex, colored to match.
Sometimes that works better than gelcoat. Fur sure easier.

[Clipper]

Cool thread this.

I finally tried out my home built 'low buck' endless line furler last weekend. It is based around what I think is a stainless steel anchor swivel. For flying a screecher on my 28' cat, so not massive luff loads, but high enough that I was concerned it might not swivel under load.

All built from scrap and offcuts. Drum was made in an old plastic sugar container from the pantry, with a 4mm plywood base, carboned over. Pulley was made from layeing 5 layers of 3 different diameter 4mm plywood disks, carbon skin top and bottom. Glue filled in the 'steps' and then holes drilled for grip.

Photos are during construction, and then nearly finished. No photos of it in action, but it seemed to work great.

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•  P1050387.JPG   181.92K   79 downloads
•  P1050385.JPG   180.27K   73 downloads
•  P1050383.JPG   167.67K   55 downloads

[blackjenner]

I just created a new salon table for Brigadoon out of the old salon table for the cost of some brackets and some shop time.

http://forums.sailin...howtopic=125398

[blackjenner]

Cool thread this.

I finally tried out my home built 'low buck' endless line furler last weekend. It is based around what I think is a stainless steel anchor swivel. For flying a screecher on my 28' cat, so not massive luff loads, but high enough that I was concerned it might not swivel under load.

All built from scrap and offcuts. Drum was made in an old plastic sugar container from the pantry, with a 4mm plywood base, carboned over. Pulley was made from layeing 5 layers of 3 different diameter 4mm plywood disks, carbon skin top and bottom. Glue filled in the 'steps' and then holes drilled for grip.

Photos are during construction, and then nearly finished. No photos of it in action, but it seemed to work great.

That is really cool. I love sh*t like this.

Make it yourself.

[bljones]

Koozie Katcher:

http://docksixchroni...-of-week-3.html

[blackjenner]

I like it.

[Cavelamb]

So I got the idea for this thread as a one-stop shop for all the smaller projects from another site, and there was tons of good info there - I think the CA mentality here is a lot more conducive to "alternate methods" however and I'm willing to bet we have some creative tinkerers around here that have found cheaper (but emphasis on safe and reliable) solutions to the traditional "marine-grade" fare, or simply because you think you can do a better job than what's readily available.. I know some folk (including me) like to try to make things just to see if they can instead of buying even if it costs a little more, so let's see those too..

I think it's about time to bump Poda's thread again - see if anybody else is still messing with their boats...


This one is a bit involved - but still well under $100.
The cabin lights that were in the boat when I got it were working perfectly well.
You had the choice of bright glaring white or bright glaring red.

At night the red works better because it doesn't rob you of your night vision quite so badly.
But it was still pretty damned bright! I am blessed with excellent night vision. Unless blinded by a bright light.
And this year we sail mostly at night.
The 110 (plus) daily temperatures dictated that(!)


So to make the cabin more comfortable - at night - this project was cooked up and executed.


What I wanted to do was to provide an alternative to the bright cabin lights that worked fine - but
destroy my night vision every time they are turned on. My idea was to split off the cabin light circuit
and add LEDs under the shelves and cabinets that would not have a direct line-of-sight glare.

Sounds simple enough...

Except for the question of How and Where. (We'll overlook Why and When for a moment, ok?)

So...
The obvious solution was to provide a small switch panel to control the added features.
Here is what I came up with to do that...

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress/cablight.htm

[Cavelamb]

I found a link on the net for the LED strips - way better price too without the "Try Me" battery pack and push button switch.
http://www.oznium.com/led-flex-strips

There is no power supply involved with this approach.
The voltage drop across 3 diodes works out to 12 volts.
So it's a very quiet (electronically) DC installation.

Note that these are flexible strips - can can be cut down in multiples of 3 diodes each for smaller pieces.
A sharp knife or razor can slice through the transparent cover
Tin the little tabs and solder on new wires.
I used red and black 20 gauge, red to +, black to -.
But nothing bad happens i f they get hooked up backwards.

Once the wires are on, to maintain waterproof-ness - seal the wires.
I (strongly) recommend against using silicone to seal cut ends.
Shoe Goo is what I use...
Good Stuff, Maynard.

Attached Files

•  clights12.jpg   61.3K   58 downloads

[bljones]

Noice work, cavey, noice work.

[Cavelamb]

Noice work, cavey, noice work.

Speaking of nice - your Beneteau panel looks like something from a Star Trek movie!
Too Cool.

[bljones]

Low-Buck tools: Scarphing jig and pin rail boring jig.

http://docksixchroni...ggy-wit-it.html

[Ritchard]

This post is ported directly from the original, infamous, BLJones thread on that other board. I think it is worth reposting here because it is a frequent problem for which there hasn't to my knowledge, been an easy solution. This project was a part of the "Great Winter of 2011 Cheapskate So My Wife Doesn't Kill Me Sailboat Refit." In the interest of disclosure, I have never owned a sailboat before this past August, and am prone to remarkable feats of stupidity, and frugality - which as we well know is the actual mother of invention.

Among the items needing renewing on my new-to-me '79 Endeavour 32 was the cutlass bearing. There was noticeable side to side movement in the shaft. On the Endeavour 32, the cutlass bearing (1-1/2 OD x 1" ID x 4 inch length) is carried in a bronze strut.





Everyone told me that the way to do it was to remove the propshaft and sort of cut out the bearing from the strut. I have an (lazy) aversion to taking more stuff apart than necessary, so wasn't keen on the idea of removing the shaft. Then when I measured, I found that to take out the prop shaft, you have to drop my rudder. My response to that idea is "no freakin' way." I went looking for an option, and Google's your best friend, came up with this tool:

Strut-Pro Cutless Bearings


Now this Strutpro tool looks like an excellent tool set for a marina or maybe a club to have but a little rich for my single use. So I decided to make the tool. I drew up the bits, and sent them to my blacksmith buddy, but even when my buddy gives me a super deal, it was still going to be a little costly. Then I thought that I could maybe make the tool out of off-the-shelf parts.

Here's what I came up with:



I know, it's a little unclear, but it's just Home Depot plumbing parts, more or less. There are:
-4 x 1-1/2" pipe flanges
-2 step down Hex bushings (1-1/2 to 1-1/4", and 1-1/4" to 1" - it might be possible to find a 1-1/2' to 1" instead and save three bucks)
-1x 1" x 5" nipple fitting, with one end of the threads cut off.
-1 chunks of 1/2" all thread cut in half-6 nuts for the above
-10 fender washers
-2x 5/16" x 1" bolts with a couple of nuts and 4 washers holding together the "active" end.

All 4 of the flanges have had two of their 4 holes drilled out to 1/2" to accept the rod.

Two of the pipe flanges have been notched to fit over the shaft (forward of the strut) for the static side of the tool. The threaded, protruding bit of the flange nests perfectly on the end of the strut - though took a tiny bit of fiddling to get set properly. The active end flanges are paired and bolted together only to ensure that the relatively soft metal has enough strength. This paired up set of flanges has the step down bushings and the pipe nipple used for pushing the bearing out installed.

Here it is laid out a bit:



The notched flanges paired:



The Active end of the tool has that piece of pipe nipple with one end cut off that slides over the propshaft perfectly, and is thick-walled enough that it at the same time engages the bronze outer shell part of the cutlass bearing.
To use the tool, place the pair of notched pipe flanges together to encircle the propshaft shaft forward of the forward end of the strut. Put the last inch or so of threaded rod through them, sandwiched between four of the nuts and washers and wrench the whole Magilla up tight. Set the now-paired set of notched flanges against the forward end of the strut, so that the protruding bit of the flange encircles the end of the strut. Slide the active end of the tool over the aft end of the propshaft, then slide the free ends of the threaded rods though the paired flanges. Now slide the active end of the tool up tight to the cutlass bearing. Install three oiled washers, and the nuts. Snug up the nuts, double triple check that the static end is sitting correctly against the strut. If it is, start cranking on the nuts.

It took about 30 or 40 minutes start to finish to remove the bearing from the strut, much of that fiddling with getting the tool together and placed properly. A helper would have been very useful, but my teenaged sons would rather die. I oiled the active end washers and the threaded rod to help things along a bit. It might have been less difficult had I (duh) removed the set screws. They were so obscured by years/layers of paint, I didn't know they were there.

Once the bearing was out - that is, pushed forward out of the strut toward the bow, but still on the shaft - I slit it with a cutting wheel on a dremel tool. Which died.

Two weeks later I received my new bearing, and used the same tool to force it back in, much in the way that it forced the old one out. ***note, you can also use the tool to take the prop off. It involves a small plate of metal and a method that I will explain if you ask.

If I were to make this tool again, I might go up one size in the threaded rod. I am not sure if the cheapskate design could be reworked for different sized shafts and bearings. I felt really lucky that both the pipe nipple, and the flanges, were perfect fits for my particular scenario.

Total cost for the tool? $50 more or less.

I am sure I have not been clear enough. Here is a video from Strutpro to show you what I have tried to emulate:

In Action - The Cutless Bearing Replacement Tool from Strutpro - YouTube

__________________

[prof_mariner]

You could probably take some of those bits (and a piece of flat steel) and turn it into a prop puller as well. Good post, thanks!

[Cavelamb]

The pipe flange mod - I've never seen that one before.
If you made it up all by yourself you get a gold star!

Brilliant.

[olaf hart]

Great idea moving the bearing forward, not aft, so you can use the tool to insert the new bearing.
Would be a PITA though if the pusher tube became stuck in the strut tube ....
Brilliant idea though, now how would you remove a bearing in a full keel boat?

[Sublime]

My favorite so far (which are also in the thread on sailnet) is this hatchboard holder I made from a cedar furring strip.

Attached Files

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•  photo0535d.jpg   90.83K   20 downloads

[bljones]

low-buck cabin refit, part One:
http://docksixchroni...2-part-one.html

[Cavelamb]

low-buck cabin refit, part One:
http://docksixchroni...2-part-one.html

I love sunsets like that.

[bljones]

Just to close out the tale:
http://docksixchronicles.blogspot.ca/2012/05/first-wet-week-end-of-2012-part-two.html

[Cavelamb]

Just to close out the tale:
http://docksixchroni...2-part-two.html

Very nice, Mr. Jones!
Very nice indeed.

I do believe you have developed a real talent for this kind of stuff!

[toddster]

Before: That's a chart table?



After: THAT's a chart table. Maybe even a nav station.




Other than the electronics and stuff that was around the shop: 2 mahogany 1 x 8's, 10 ft2 of formica, some scraps of star board, and one three-day weekend. Oh, I did blow more than $100 stocking up on stainless fasteners at grainger. Maybe a little crude, but I'm digging it.

[bljones]

Nice work!

[smackdaddy]

Oh man, bl's gonna be pissed.

I just replaced the rotted bilge cover in my C27 with Hardiboard. I have no idea if it will stand up to the pressure of being stepped on over time (so far it's fine) - but I sure as hell know it won't rot. Stained, it looks beautimus.

$9.

Hardi used to make roofing materials, until they found out too much moisture caused them to turn to mush. I saw a Hardi roof shingle that had a swamp cooler drip on it until it looked like wet graham cracker, it will rot.

Well - it didn't seem to be totally "rotting" but it definitely didn't hold up to being stepped on for more than a year. Either way, 805, you were absolutely right about the moisture breaking it down over time.

So, verdict: not the best approach. Back to the tried and true, high-buck marine plywood.

[bljones]

Latest:
http://docksixchroni...-kickin-it.html

[smackdaddy]

There's always a fine line between can and should.

Heh-heh.

[Diarmuid]

We encountered the same problem: our furling line is dressed down the side decks & around the coachroof. Since furling here often takes place in 40kts, there were Panic Grooves forming in the gelcoat:



Piece of scrap SS, four rivets, and UV4000 -- all better.

[Diarmuid]

While we at it, here's our new deck layout.



Not entirely Low-Buck: new (old) winches, longer jib tracks, mast plate, & KiwiGrip add up to about four bills. But the cheap bit is in the middle: that thing bridging the companionway is a cut-down roof rack off our ancient Toyota van. It is thru-bolted with 1/4" machine screws, with phenolic core to handle the leverage. It puts the main halyard, tack reefing line, cunningham, spinnaker/drifter halyards, and pole lift/drifter release cord within easy reach.

Like Beau V., we need to play with outhauls for the jib sheets. excessive reaching twist is a problem on this boat.

[smackdaddy]

We encountered the same problem: our furling line is dressed down the side decks & around the coachroof. Since furling here often takes place in 40kts, there were Panic Grooves forming in the gelcoat:

Piece of scrap SS, four rivets, and UV4000 -- all better.

There you go. That looks much better with the rivets.

Big-ass screws on a chafe-plate are kind of like lederhosen with an extra set of suspenders AND a belt.

[Diarmuid]

There you go. That looks much better with the rivets.

Big-ass screws on a chafe-plate are kind of like lederhosen with an extra set of suspenders AND a belt.

I like overkill, usually. But screws tend to snag worse than rivets, and they are prone to sharp burrs or corrosion around the recess. Heh. One of my clients wanted a SS backsplash around the whole kitchen. Happy to oblige -- say, you don't need these offcuts for anything, do you? It's only 304, but we're fresh(ish) water here. Got a lifetime supply.