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Sons's Baba Rebuild Thread


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#1 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:07 AM

Now that the weather is no longer borderline arctic (today it was almost 90) and the monsoon downpoors have abated it seems, I've finally begun the re-beautification of Soņadora. Below is a list of all the stuff I want to get done this season:
  • companionway hatch rebuild (started)
  • fwd berth hatch rebuild
  • cockpit hatch rebuild
  • seal leaks in butterfly hatch
  • new beadboard headliner throughout
  • all exterior 'decorative' teak stripped and varnished, varnished, varnished...and more varnish! I like varnish. It's like perfect tits - with a nice tan
  • deck re-caulked
  • nav lights re wired (long story)
  • topside re-painted
  • instruments located to binnacle (currently located on the bulkhead where they're always blocked by someone's ass)
  • new base for compression post
  • 2 new chainplates
  • cabin sole re-finished
Then, over the winter


  • New interior cushions
  • Bimini (measurements taken before hibernation)
  • Fix binnacle cover
  • Fix mainsail cover
  • Make cover for companionway hatch
Of coures, there's a whole bunch of other shit I've probably forgotten, but that's the gist. I'll post as much here as I can, but I'll keep most of the good stuff on my Baba forum. Less cluttered that way.

These are pics of my companionway hatch as it was when I started its rehab

Attached Files



#2 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:26 AM

I should be done with the hatch by next weekend. I want to use beadboard for all the headliner.

I've been reading about this stuff. There's a guy on another forum who used it on his Tartan 34. It's made out of hardboard. Sounds like hardboard is at least as water resilient as plywood. Thoughts?
Posted Image

#3 Innocent Bystander

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:25 AM

A good indication wold be if GP recommends it for "below grade (basement) installation. I once bought a house with an owner finished basement. Paneling over open studs and warped to all hell. When I ripped it out, it was clearly stamped "not for below grade installations". It did not like humidity.....

#4 Gatekeeper

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 11:07 AM

Sons

A club member just finished doing his headliner on a traditional boat like yours...he used Melamine laminate in sheet form (no wood or particle board backing) water proof, mark proof, very tough, very flexible, and not expensive. Lots of colour selection in some very nice matte finishes.

He simply cut them out from patterns, and held them in place with the exiting trim and battens, or contact cement in places where he needed a better grip.

It looks outstanding.

#5 memopad

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 11:21 AM

Sounds perfect Gate, where can I find some B).

#6 Gatekeeper

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 01:39 PM

My pal got all his at Home Depot...they seemed to keep a good selection on hand.

If you are fussier about the colour and finish any cabinet shop should have access to a huge variety.

#7 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:03 PM

Thanks gate.

I considered melamine, but I'm really after a beadboard look. Are you saying they have melamine beadboard? I suppose if I got kooky, I could route my own beads.

I'll have to check around more about this GP stuff. So far it seems pressboard is at least as resilient as luaun plywood. Besides, after I fix all the leaks, the headliner's going to stay all nice and dry, right? Posted Image

#8 Gatekeeper

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:06 PM

Thanks gate.

I considered melamine, but I'm really after a beadboard look. Are you saying they have melamine beadboard? I suppose if I got kooky, I could route my own beads.

Posted Image


The melamine he used was VERY thin...maybe 1/64th (or less?). The teak interior trim looked great against the cream coloured melamine. I doubt there is a bead board look though.

But, if you are 100% sure of no leaks, ever again, it's hard to argue with that.

Posted Image

#9 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:25 PM


Thanks gate.

I considered melamine, but I'm really after a beadboard look. Are you saying they have melamine beadboard? I suppose if I got kooky, I could route my own beads.

Posted Image


The melamine he used was VERY thin...maybe 1/64th (or less?). The teak interior trim looked great against the cream coloured melamine. I doubt there is a bead board look though.

But, if you are 100% sure of no leaks, ever again, it's hard to argue with that.

Posted Image


ha. Sure, I'll go with 100% no leaks. Well, it made it 30+ years with the original plywood, so I think I'll be ok. 30 years from now, it's possible I'll still be sailing around, but I won't be interested in any restoration. By then I'll be sailing in a custom Perry design.

I put in a query to GP to see what they think.

#10 Gatekeeper

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:32 PM

I think pressboard is wood code for sponge...I would even be concerned with humidity. Do you plan on having the material installed near water??

Posted Image

I imagine it will get down to whether the glue is water soluble, or oil based.

#11 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:43 PM

pressboard? wtf. That's not what I meant. HARDboard...

man I'm sloppy.

Tempered hardboard is hardboard that has been coated with a thin film of linseed oil and then baked; this gives it more water resistance, impact resistance, hardness, rigidity and tensile strength. An earlier tempering process involved immersing the board in linseed oil or tung oil until it was 5 to 6 percent saturated, and heating to 170° C (340° F).[4] Tempered hardboard is used in construction siding.


Now I just need to find out if this stuff is tempered hardboard....

#12 crash

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:50 PM

Sons,
I've been looking for a good source for laminate beadboard too. Now that boatbuilders are starting to use them as hull and headliners, there ought to be some way to find some. JBoats uses them (J/122, J/108, etc) and I think Schock is planning on using similar in the Harbor 30...Must be a source for them somewhere.
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#13 maxtrim

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:59 PM


Thanks gate.

I considered melamine, but I'm really after a beadboard look. Are you saying they have melamine beadboard? I suppose if I got kooky, I could route my own beads.

Posted Image


The melamine he used was VERY thin...maybe 1/64th (or less?). The teak interior trim looked great against the cream coloured melamine. I doubt there is a bead board look though.

But, if you are 100% sure of no leaks, ever again, it's hard to argue with that.

Posted Image


Are you talking about the GRP panels like they use for showers, etc ? I've not seen any melamine panels at Home Depot (nor did a google search turn up anything beside melamine panels on mdf ).

#14 Gatekeeper

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:05 PM

Try Formica...I may have sent you down the wrong path. I am 100% sure it was HD.

http://formicacounte...formica-sheets/

#15 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:22 PM

ahh...formica. Yes. I have thought about this one too and will probably go with that if I can't find a good beadboard source. I also considered PVC sheet, but that stuff can leech nasty chemicals and will kill you if you breathe any fumes if the stuff burns.

#16 Gatekeeper

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:24 PM

Sorry to send you off on a goose chase...

#17 maxtrim

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:27 PM

Sorry to send you off on a goose chase...


no problem, Formica makes more sense !

should work great as long as there's no complex curves.

our boat-C&C 37R-came with panels made from fiberglass sheets, formica or the grp panels would be easier to work with.

#18 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:37 PM

no worries Gate ;)

I'm really sold on the beadboard idea.

Here's what it looks like on that Tartan I mentioned earlier.


Attached File  Figure_6.jpg   481.38K   118 downloads


The headliner on the older Babas is not removeable. I will not be removing the entire headliner. Instead, I'm going to do the best I can to remove any bad sections and simply put new headliner over the old using teak battens so at least that will be removeable.

#19 Gatekeeper

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:42 PM

That is nice....I see your point.

#20 maxtrim

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:58 PM

no worries Gate ;)

I'm really sold on the beadboard idea.

Here's what it looks like on that Tartan I mentioned earlier.


Attached File  Figure_6.jpg   481.38K   118 downloads


The headliner on the older Babas is not removeable. I will not be removing the entire headliner. Instead, I'm going to do the best I can to remove any bad sections and simply put new headliner over the old using teak battens so at least that will be removeable.


found these-not a sheet but at least weather proof

http://products.cons...9784/233863.PDF

#21 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:03 PM


no worries Gate ;)

I'm really sold on the beadboard idea.

Here's what it looks like on that Tartan I mentioned earlier.


Attached File  Figure_6.jpg   481.38K   118 downloads


The headliner on the older Babas is not removeable. I will not be removing the entire headliner. Instead, I'm going to do the best I can to remove any bad sections and simply put new headliner over the old using teak battens so at least that will be removeable.


found these-not a sheet but at least weather proof

http://products.cons...9784/233863.PDF



ohhh...I like! Is that PVC?

#22 maxtrim

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:07 PM



no worries Gate ;)

I'm really sold on the beadboard idea.

Here's what it looks like on that Tartan I mentioned earlier.


Attached File  Figure_6.jpg   481.38K   118 downloads


The headliner on the older Babas is not removeable. I will not be removing the entire headliner. Instead, I'm going to do the best I can to remove any bad sections and simply put new headliner over the old using teak battens so at least that will be removeable.


found these-not a sheet but at least weather proof

http://products.cons...9784/233863.PDF



ohhh...I like! Is that PVC?


plastic of some sort judging from their name, even in your part of the world !

#23 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:10 PM

plastic of some sort judging from their name, even in your part of the world !


hey, I'm not from around here...
E-mail sent to them.

#24 maxtrim

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:19 PM



plastic of some sort judging from their name, even in your part of the world !


hey, I'm not from around here...
E-mail sent to them.


ok, ok, just stuck there for now ... :P

#25 Jose Carumba

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:23 PM

There are several plastic beadboard mfrs out there if I recall from my bathroom renovation several years back. I used one that was about 3/16-1/8" thick and came in 6-8" wide "planks". I think I got it at Home Depot.



#26 Hike, Bitches!

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:28 PM

Ooooo...that stuff looks nice maxtrim (but not for my boat..for the house). I even sent a copy of the PDF off to my wife..that was probably a mistake. :unsure:

#27 Gatekeeper

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:30 PM

It looks like it will probably bend ok on it's length...but it would seem quite structural 90 degrees to the long side.

#28 maxtrim

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:32 PM

Ooooo...that stuff looks nice maxtrim (but not for my boat..for the house). I even sent a copy of the PDF off to my wife..that was probably a mistake. :unsure:


sorry..... or your welcome-up to you !

#29 memopad

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 05:01 PM

Bah sometimes I wish my cabin top was less curvey... It almost forces me to exclusively use fabrics for a headliner. The melamine/formica looks interesting, i'll have to go play with some at the hardware store. The vinyl I looked at was very flexible also. Just not sure these materials can make the complex multiple bends I've got.. unless I'm thinking about it all wrong.

#30 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 05:13 PM

memo

there aren't too many bends on Soņadora's headliner...just a nice gentle curve. However, there are all sorts of jogs and fittings and crap that I'll need to cut around. Mater Huang was very clever with how he assembled our boat, thwarting any obvious attempt to remove something.

I'm all "hmmm, I should be able to get at those bolts that hold the traveller arch"
but Master Huang is all "ahhhh, but your eyes decieve you grasshoper...that's no ordinary teak batten you see."

Then, "I can just remove these screws here and the thing should come off."
"BUT, grasshopper, you do not understand the way of the Epoxy Dragon!"

#31 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 05:51 PM

ok, so the plastic stuff comes in tongue and groove 'boards'. You can get individual boards or panels that are 5 or 6 wide. At first it didn't sound so nice, but actually this may make it easier. They're sending samples to Grand Portage Yachts. ;)

#32 bljones

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 06:15 PM

The pvc beadboard is essentially the same stuff used to make real estate signs and the like. it is VERY thin, and doesn't like curving in two directions. not even a little. the beads will kink and compress, leaving an unsightly finish.
If it was me, I'd laminate this stuff...

http://reviews.homed...ews/reviews.htm

to 1/4" mahogany doorskin with clear epoxy, then relief the backside of the doorskin with 1/16" deep kerfs on 3"-6" centers to allow it to fit the contours and compound shapes of your overhead. Laminate the backside and the beadboard face (if desired) with clear epoxy to seal it.
Now you have a waterproof, mould proof, tightfitting beadboard that will also add some sound insulation.

I've used it in the past, and it looks and feels like beadboard, and installs better on wavy walls.

#33 Soņadora

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:50 PM

The plastic tongue-and-groove that I'm getting a sample of is 1/2" thick. It's not PVC.

This could be the ticket. Otherwise, based on the pic above of the Tartan, I'm inclined to think the hardboard stuff will work. My headliner is not one continuous section. It's broken up by beams every 2' or so so I'll be able to do this in sections. The hardest part will be where the bulkhead curves into the V-berth.

#34 Ishmael

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 12:48 AM

This one is PVC.

http://epiplastics.t...nels/item-1018?

I don't think hardboard is a good material on a boat. It's relatively heavy and turns to mush with extended water.

#35 tdwombat

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 01:06 AM

I've always liked tongue and groove v join as a headliner. Just looks the goods I reckon but if not that I'd be staying with battened melamine/formica whatever . Raven has that and I've always liked it. PLain and simple yet it looks the part and is easily removed if access is required. Somehow , non V Groove board never quite does it for me.

#36 Soņadora

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 04:47 AM

Ish, This is what I was thinking of using.

http://epiplastics.t...anels/item-1015?

I didn't think it was PVC, but after digging a little deeper, that seems to be the case.


If I do all the rehab I plan on doing, there shouldn't be any standing water in the headliner. And unlike the original headliner (which is going to stay in place) I'm going to make the beadboard removeable.

#37 bljones

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 11:40 AM

Ish, This is what I was thinking of using.

http://epiplastics.t...anels/item-1015?

I didn't think it was PVC, but after digging a little deeper, that seems to be the case.


If I do all the rehab I plan on doing, there shouldn't be any standing water in the headliner. And unlike the original headliner (which is going to stay in place) I'm going to make the beadboard removeable.

From the link:
"P1300 12-inch Flat Panels are extruded from 100% virgin, exterior-grade PVC. "
I thought you wanted beadboard? Those are flat panels.




#38 Soņadora

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 01:54 PM


Ish, This is what I was thinking of using.

http://epiplastics.t...anels/item-1015?

I didn't think it was PVC, but after digging a little deeper, that seems to be the case.


If I do all the rehab I plan on doing, there shouldn't be any standing water in the headliner. And unlike the original headliner (which is going to stay in place) I'm going to make the beadboard removeable.

From the link:
"P1300 12-inch Flat Panels are extruded from 100% virgin, exterior-grade PVC. "
I thought you wanted beadboard? Those are flat panels.




they're tongue and groove with a small reveal between the panels.

In any case, I've decided to try the hardboard stuff. If it doesn't work out, I can always switch it.

#39 Ajax

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 02:50 PM

Doooooood...the photo from that Tartan looks good! That'll look good on your boat. Hell, I'm considering it now!

Much of my interior is that faux wood-grain laminate. It's a photo of wood-grain, basically. it's sun-faded and looks like ass. The white bead board would brighten up the cabin considerably, while still leaving plenty of wood trim and cabinetry for a warm feel.

#40 Soņadora

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 03:27 PM

I think it will look pretty nice :)

On another note, just got a quote from a plaque maker.

we have two holes on the cabin bulkhead where instruments used to reside. I want to cover those holes up and my wife suggested a bronze plaque.

I think this looks great, but I'm not sure if it's weird from a spanish language point of view. I was thinking it should look more like:

Soy
la Soņadora

In the song by Enya, she actually sings it sort of the way it is on the plaque. Thoughts?

Attached File  plaque.JPG   361.15K   12 downloads

#41 Sail_Cascade

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:08 PM

I have a Cascade 42 that I built and I used formica for the headliner, worked great, looks good, easy to clean, been in place for over 25 years. For Nepenthe I used strips of mahogany attached to the plywood under the headliner with a double rabbet so that the formica is held about 1/4 inch clear giving a sace for deck fasteners, wire and etc. The formica is held in place by mahogany strips (5/15" x 1-1/4") over the double rabbet strips making it easy to remove and replace. But you need to seal the back of the formica and for longer spans between supports (over a foot or so) you also need to put stiffeners on the back. First try I didn't do either and the formica warped from just the humdity on the back side. Looked terrible. So I re-did the panels, varished the back and added stiffeners and since have had no problems.

#42 Soņadora

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:14 PM

wow...3 years and ONE post. Welcome newb ;)

Good idea with the rabbets. I was planning on epoxying the back of the hardboard. Rabbets would give some roome to breathe and dry out if, you know, someone spilled a drink or something since there won't be any leaks at all once I'm done.

#43 Sail_Cascade

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:24 PM

Well, I only sign on at lunch here at work and like my Dad used to say "If you don't have anything important to say, keep your mouth shut". Mom did most of the talking.

I mostly learn from all the great experince all you guys have. We take the boat form Portland up the coast to the West Coast of Vancouver island every year but we don't ahve anything like the experince of most.



#44 Soņadora

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 09:03 PM

"If you don't have anything important to say, keep your mouth shut".


d00d, this place would have been shut down years ago, if that logic had been followed. :P

#45 PNW Matt B

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 03:15 AM

Besides, Portland to West Coast Van Isle isn't nothing.

#46 Ishmael

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 04:28 AM

I think it will look pretty nice :)

On another note, just got a quote from a plaque maker.

we have two holes on the cabin bulkhead where instruments used to reside. I want to cover those holes up and my wife suggested a bronze plaque.

I think this looks great, but I'm not sure if it's weird from a spanish language point of view. I was thinking it should look more like:

Soy
la Soņadora

In the song by Enya, she actually sings it sort of the way it is on the plaque. Thoughts?

Attached File  plaque.JPG   361.15K   12 downloads


Sons, yours looks like a label for Chinese bean sauce. I say that in the nicest way possible, you know?





And plaque is stuff on teeth, should not be on a boat either.





Unless it's in a museum or otherwise famous.

#47 Soņadora

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 02:34 PM

I guess that means I need to remove the plaque with my hull number on it.
And the plaque that warns me about dumping plastic

:P

I'm not crazy about the border. I was trying to reflect on the scrollwork on the bow/stern. I may be able to provide custom graphics. In any case, these things are stupid expensive and most likely outside the budget.
This plaque is just one idea. I need to come up with something to cover the two 5" holes in the bulkhead. I'm definitely not going to replace any of the teak (which would be ideal) since I'm certain Master Huang has all sorts of booby traps set for someone trying to do something that crazy.

Another option is to simply route out a nice piece of teak. Will definitely be a lot cheaper.

#48 sculpin

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 02:48 PM

I guess that means I need to remove the plaque with my hull number on it.
And the plaque that warns me about dumping plastic

:P

I'm not crazy about the border. I was trying to reflect on the scrollwork on the bow/stern. I may be able to provide custom graphics. In any case, these things are stupid expensive and most likely outside the budget.
This plaque is just one idea. I need to come up with something to cover the two 5" holes in the bulkhead. I'm definitely not going to replace any of the teak (which would be ideal) since I'm certain Master Huang has all sorts of booby traps set for someone trying to do something that crazy.

Another option is to simply route out a nice piece of teak. Will definitely be a lot cheaper.


Put an opening port there. Boats can always use better ventilation... That's my plan when I get to the "re-do the instruments" part of my refit (when I can afford it).

#49 Soņadora

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 02:52 PM

Put an opening port there. Boats can always use better ventilation... That's my plan when I get to the "re-do the instruments" part of my refit (when I can afford it).


Not a bad idea.

#50 Soņadora

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 02:53 PM

As for the beadboard, Georgia Pacific recommends this:

http://www.gp.com/bu...t.aspx?pid=1401



#51 Beer Fueled Mayhem

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:25 PM

I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.

#52 Poda

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:33 PM

I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.


I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit

#53 Beer Fueled Mayhem

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:36 PM


I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.


I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit


No problem. I am at work till 1930 west coast time. Scan them after I get the kids to bed.

#54 Poda

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:42 PM



I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.


I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit


No problem. I am at work till 1930 west coast time. Scan them after I get the kids to bed.


Cool! No worries, no rush :) Thanks!

#55 Ishmael

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:49 PM

I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

Attached File  PK_0451.jpg   992.47K   41 downloads

#56 Poda

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:59 PM

I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

Attached File  PK_0451.jpg   992.47K   41 downloads


I love that you thought to put it in vertically so you can pass the bevvies without spilling!

I've been thinking of doing something similar - current hole is an oval 12" wide, 5" high, so that's the size of the smallest rectangular hole I can make.. Was thinking of putting in an opening port instead and mounting the ST40 on the other side bulkhead (where the compass is currently), or above it/below it.. But that's unfortunately the perfect height for the instrument. I have also thought of putting in an opaque port, and mounting the ST40 within it.. Ventilation when I need it, and closed when sailing. The slight recess of what I've looked at so far would help protect the display to boot.

But I'd love other ideas..

#57 Soņadora

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 06:36 PM

I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

Attached File  PK_0451.jpg   992.47K   41 downloads



'cuz there's no way in hell you're going to reach the other 3 inches to hand it out of the companionway :P

actually, I like vertical mount idea. I was actually considering a square hole with a small hatch rather than a port. So not only passing beer, but passing food too.

Keep in mind, that is a prime lounging spot.

#58 Beer Fueled Mayhem

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 07:22 PM


I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.


I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit


Did a little looking around on google and found the article! I'll scan a picture of the stained glass port if anyone is interested.

LINKY!

#59 Soņadora

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 07:26 PM



I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.


I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit


Did a little looking around on google and found the article! I'll scan a picture of the stained glass port if anyone is interested.

LINKY!


sure! I like that chalkboard idea.

#60 SereneSpeed

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 07:29 PM

The PO's left me this hole:

Posted Image

I can't figure out for the life of me why it was SOOOOO big?

They used double sided tape to 'stick' a piece of HDPE over the hole...

We glassed over it:

Posted Image

Posted Image

#61 Poda

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 08:14 PM

The PO's left me this hole:

Posted Image

I can't figure out for the life of me why it was SOOOOO big?

They used double sided tape to 'stick' a piece of HDPE over the hole...

We glassed over it:




Wow.. I think they were trying to make this fit through there..

Posted Image

#62 Jose Carumba

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 08:33 PM

Holy crap! Must've been rotten core in that area.

#63 Beer Fueled Mayhem

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 02:23 PM




I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.


I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit


Did a little looking around on google and found the article! I'll scan a picture of the stained glass port if anyone is interested.

LINKY!


sure! I like that chalkboard idea.


Sorry it took so long for this. PDF'd the whole article from GOB. Cannot put multiple files on one reply.
Attached File  page1.pdf   722.85K   39 downloads

#64 Beer Fueled Mayhem

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 02:24 PM

Attached File  page2.pdf   842.23K   27 downloads

#65 Beer Fueled Mayhem

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 02:26 PM

Attached File  page3.pdf   855.76K   19 downloads

Attached File  page4.pdf   864.34K   16 downloads

#66 Soņadora

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 05:26 AM

scratch the port idea. You'd think I know enough about my boat to remember I've already got an opening port there.

Probably just make a nice teak cover though the food pass-thru isn't out of the question.

Here's some updates

First - have to build a workbench!
Attached File  100_7679 (Small).jpg   111.24K   4 downloads

See the forest back behind the table? Yesterday I heard something rustling in there. A 4' snake of some kind.
Attached File  100_7688 (Small).jpg   77.94K   15 downloads

Attempting to get rid of the old plywood. Finally just bought a grinder with a sanding wheel. That took care of it. What a mess!
Attached File  100_7684 (Small).jpg   75.66K   22 downloads

The beadboard in place
Attached File  100_7714 (Small).jpg   52K   30 downloads

Looks pretty good I think
Attached File  100_7715 (Small).jpg   75.52K   28 downloads

Still a lot to do on the outside
Attached File  100_7717 (Small).jpg   63.72K   19 downloads

#67 PNW Matt B

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 06:03 AM

That's a good start, Sons. I'd post a picture of the workbench I have at the boat, but it's kind of scary. I built an 8' bench out of 2x4s, used it to build a temporary shed over the boat from 2x4s... including the ones in the bench (went on last, naturally.) Still needed a bench, so I put a couple 2x4 sawhorses about 4' apart, nailed a couple scrap 2x4s across them, and slapped a dozen random pieces of wood in between the two fixed pieces. Looks like crap but it works pretty well.

No pretty completed projects to show yet - I finally filled the osmotic blisters today, but I'll wait to show off pictures until I've sanded them smooth. Six layers of glass cloth for one, eight for the other.

#68 Ajax

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 12:46 PM

Looks good!

#69 Ishmael

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 04:22 PM


I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

Attached File  PK_0451.jpg   992.47K   41 downloads


I love that you thought to put it in vertically so you can pass the bevvies without spilling!

I've been thinking of doing something similar - current hole is an oval 12" wide, 5" high, so that's the size of the smallest rectangular hole I can make.. Was thinking of putting in an opening port instead and mounting the ST40 on the other side bulkhead (where the compass is currently), or above it/below it.. But that's unfortunately the perfect height for the instrument. I have also thought of putting in an opaque port, and mounting the ST40 within it.. Ventilation when I need it, and closed when sailing. The slight recess of what I've looked at so far would help protect the display to boot.

But I'd love other ideas..

You could mount the instrument on a swing-away arm so you can see it through the port/hole...


I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

Attached File  PK_0451.jpg   992.47K   41 downloads



'cuz there's no way in hell you're going to reach the other 3 inches to hand it out of the companionway :P

actually, I like vertical mount idea. I was actually considering a square hole with a small hatch rather than a port. So not only passing beer, but passing food too.

Keep in mind, that is a prime lounging spot.


You can't feel the port at all when lounging, it's almost flat. And we have cushions. We do have some trappings of civilization up here y'know.

#70 Soņadora

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 06:03 PM

You can't feel the port at all when lounging, it's almost flat. And we have cushions. We do have some trappings of civilization up here y'know.


Well, you'd think after owning the boat for 10 years I'd realized I already have a port there. The mind is the first thing to go I guess. :rolleyes:

So most likely, I'll just put a piece of teak over the holes.

#71 Jose Carumba

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 06:56 PM

That beadboard looks nice Son's. What did you coat it with and what did you fasten it to the hatch with?

#72 Soņadora

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 07:20 PM

That beadboard looks nice Son's. What did you coat it with and what did you fasten it to the hatch with?


thanks Jose

I used 3 coats of BilgeKoat white enamel. Seems to me it's the same stuff that Rustoleum is made from (Rustoleum is 1/2 the price) so I'll probably use that for the rest of the beadboard. Right now they are tacked in place with a couple brass nails. Later I'll put some teak battens around the perimeter of each piece and screw those down with brass screws. I want these to be removeable.

No adhesives other than lifecaulk. I coated the underside of the teak with it and pressed it up into the seams then slid the plywood into the grooves on each side. It was a very tight fit and I ended up splitting the teak on one side of the hatch. It's not a major split and I've repaired it with some epoxy filler.

#73 Jose Carumba

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 07:31 PM

Have you thought about using finish washers with the screws? They look really nice with flathead and especially oval head fasteners.

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#74 Hike, Bitches!

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 07:31 PM

Sons - a friend recommended Rustoleum on the inside of my boat too. I used something similar (oil based white gloss enamel) from the local Lowe's and it looks great. Screw all that money for the "Interlux/US Paints" marine name. there are pics over in HB's new boat thread (recent posts) of the before & after of the area's I've managed to get to so far.

#75 Soņadora

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 09:08 PM

Right on HB

Jose, yep that's what I'm planning to use ;)

#76 Hike, Bitches!

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 10:18 PM

Son's, to further that..the local guy in Lowe's (a former sorta out of work marina boat yard guy) also recommended it. Alykid (sp?) based stuff about $25/gallon, with a "Killz" type primer applied prior to in the dirty areas..probably not needed on the new stuff...I did this in the bilge/engine room. The seat backs just got a sand/acetone wipe & the oil based gloss.

try the link below for an example. I've scrubbed this since (the bilge is the first to collect "stuff" and it is holding up just fine.) Linky to HB's thread

#77 Greever

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 12:17 AM

I used White Rustoleum under the settees and seatbacks on SevenSundays. Also on the inside of some of the lockers. It has worked great so far, and looks good too. Makes the insides of the lockers brighter too...

#78 Hike, Bitches!

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 07:30 PM

Amen, buddy. I love opening up my settees now! :D

#79 Poda

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 07:57 PM

Beer Fueled Mayhem - Thanks! Great article

#80 tdwombat

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 01:42 AM

Looks good Sons. Better than I thought it would to be honest.

#81 Soņadora

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 03:00 PM

Thanks Womby

I will be filling in the seams tomorrow and re-assembling the hatch. Hopefully have all that done by tomorrow.

I have a LOT of seam-filling work ahead. Anyone know where I can buy a case of life caulk cheap :D. I will be picking up a Fein Multimaster next week. This tool looks like the shiznit!

#82 Poda

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 03:37 PM

Thanks Womby

I will be filling in the seams tomorrow and re-assembling the hatch. Hopefully have all that done by tomorrow.

I have a LOT of seam-filling work ahead. Anyone know where I can buy a case of life caulk cheap :D. I will be picking up a Fein Multimaster next week. This tool looks like the shiznit!


Looks awesome!

I have the dremel version, and it is hands down the most versatile power tool I've got. Done everything from finishing-sanding in tight corners, contouring, cutting out tabbing (helpful hint - the grout attachment cuts through fiberglass better than anything else I've tried), trimming, removing throughulls bonded with 5200 ("like butter" is an understatement) using the scraper attachment between the throughull and the hull, etc.. You'll love it.

#83 memopad

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 03:40 PM

Hey Son's I actually have a tube of lifecaulk I might not be able to use. Defender shipped it to me and the tip was broken off, pulled slightly away where it attaches to the main tube. So no tip, just a hole in the end of the tube. They sent me another one for free, but i still have the broken one sealed in plastic wrap.

If I don't use more than a whole tube rebedding all of my deck hardware you can have the broken tube. Not sure how it will work but for seems you might be using your hands more anyway.

#84 Soņadora

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:07 PM

Poda...which dremel tool? The Fein is anywhere from 3 to 5 boat dollars. If the dremel is cheaper, I could use those boat dollars for something else.

memo...I'll pm you. I can always use more polysulfide to get all over my hands, pants, shoes, eyeglasses, kid's shirt, bike, cat, dishes, you get the picture.

#85 Innocent Bystander

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:14 PM

Poda...which dremel tool? The Fein is anywhere from 3 to 5 boat dollars. If the dremel is cheaper, I could use those boat dollars for something else.

memo...I'll pm you. I can always use more polysulfide to get all over my hands, pants, shoes, eyeglasses, kid's shirt, bike, cat, dishes, you get the picture.


If you want a throw away version (once covered in polysulfide) try this one Cheap tool

Gate will be along shortly to tell you to HTFU and buy a quality tool once and keep it forever. :D A lot to be said for that approach..

#86 Soņadora

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:16 PM

yeah, I saw that. I do like quality tools and something like the Fein will get a lot of use.

#87 Slick470

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:27 PM

I've enjoyed the rockwell version. Only home projects so far, but I'm sure it will find it's way to the boat eventually. You can get quite a few blades and such and outfit yourself pretty nicely for about $200 if you pick up one of the kits off of Amazon.

#88 Poda

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:28 PM

I've got the Multi-Max.. roughly a boat buck.. Fein and Dremel attachments are interchangeable, by the way..

I did have some issues with fine fiberglass dust gumming it up a bit, but a few well placed knocks and it started right back up. It was mostly my fault for not properly ventilating the boat, and that stuff gets eeeeeeverywhere.. Since I've stopped cutting fiberglass, it's behaved flawlessly.

#89 Jose Carumba

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:43 PM

I have and like the Dremel model but if there is a Harbor Freight Tools shop near you their version is $40.

#90 memopad

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:53 PM

My multi-tool is Performax brand. Got it on sale after thanksgiving I think for like 30 bucks. Came with a big box of accessories and whatever, haven't killed it yet.

#91 Soņadora

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:30 PM

thanks pods! I have had good luck with Dremel tools.

#92 Gatekeeper

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 10:54 PM

Fein...absolutely nothing close...but others may be acceptable depending on expectations.

#93 Innocent Bystander

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Posted 09 June 2011 - 01:13 AM

Fein...absolutely nothing close...but others may be acceptable depending on expectations.


B)

#94 Soņadora

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 03:16 AM

pretty much done with the companionway hatch for now. I will need to reassembly it in place unless I get the wild hair to remove my traveler arch. Which, as time goes by, I'm thinking more and more about doing. I'm afraid Master Huang has some surprises waiting for me though if I do that. :unsure:

I also fixed up the cockpit hatch which has suffered chronic self-disassembly. I think I've solved that problem and will post pics soon.

Gave the boat a good bath. Now she's the prettiest thing in the marina. Which isn't hard to do if you saw the place. Watergate Marina would be a cool place to keep a floating condo. Tucked down in a hollow below the bluffs along the Mississippi River.

#95 Soņadora

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 12:38 PM

Had a special treat when I got to the boat over the weekend. Lots of rain the past couple of weeks.

The Baba 30 has a well at the bow. I'm guessing the reason for this well was to allow the bow sprit to have clearance underneath it. WIthout the well, the bowsprit would be on top of the deck and would probably look a bit odd with the pulpit significantly raises.

In any case, this well does a great job of collecting water. There are two drains in the well and they will drain the well very quickly... when they're not clogged.

Well, because my boat is backed up against a forest, lots of tree debris ends up on the deck. And when it rains, all the water pushes that debris toward the well. The drains clog and there's nowhere for the water to go but in through the anchor hawse (or whatever you call it). No worries, there's a nice drain in there too. Which drains into the bilge.

The boat is not level. At first I asked the yard to adjust it, but then I changed my mind. This way, all the mucky water will drain through the bow instead of out the scuppers and streakind down the side of the hull. That also means water collecting in the boat will not drain into the bilge under the engine. Which in my case is good because my bilge pump is shot.

So I walked into the boat on Saturday and was greeted with a foward bilge full of water. Posted Image


The trees behind the boat
Attached File  100_7769.jpg   284.74K   9 downloads

The drain that gets clogged. Not where the anchor chain enters the deck
Attached File  100_7771.jpg   163.25K   32 downloads

The great bilge flood of 2011
Attached File  100_7775.jpg   81.71K   42 downloads

#96 Innocent Bystander

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 01:41 PM

Had a special treat when I got to the boat over the weekend. Lots of rain the past couple of weeks.

The Baba 30 has a well at the bow. I'm guessing the reason for this well was to allow the bow sprit to have clearance underneath it. WIthout the well, the bowsprit would be on top of the deck and would probably look a bit odd with the pulpit significantly raises.

In any case, this well does a great job of collecting water. There are two drains in the well and they will drain the well very quickly... when they're not clogged.

Well, because my boat is backed up against a forest, lots of tree debris ends up on the deck. And when it rains, all the water pushes that debris toward the well. The drains clog and there's nowhere for the water to go but in through the anchor hawse (or whatever you call it). No worries, there's a nice drain in there too. Which drains into the bilge.

The boat is not level. At first I asked the yard to adjust it, but then I changed my mind. This way, all the mucky water will drain through the bow instead of out the scuppers and streakind down the side of the hull. That also means water collecting in the boat will not drain into the bilge under the engine. Which in my case is good because my bilge pump is shot.

So I walked into the boat on Saturday and was greeted with a foward bilge full of water. Posted Image


The trees behind the boat
Attached File  100_7769.jpg   284.74K   9 downloads

The drain that gets clogged. Not where the anchor chain enters the deck
Attached File  100_7771.jpg   163.25K   32 downloads

The great bilge flood of 2011
Attached File  100_7775.jpg   81.71K   42 downloads


If you have a removeable transducer, pull it. If not, pull the hose off the lowest thru hull. Either will provide an emergency drain that can save you from flooding. Alternative is to install a garboard drain close to the low point of the bilge since you will be out of the water for a while.

#97 Soņadora

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 02:18 PM

transducer...brilliant! :D

my speed transducer is somewhere in there.

Really though, what I'd like to do is get one of those temporary RV storage shelters. I need to have the boat sheltered if I'm going to get serious about bringing up the brightwork to pristine condition.



#98 PNW Matt B

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 02:48 PM

Do both, actually. The shelter will help a great deal but some water will still find it's way in. I've known many professionals to just drill a hole into the bilge as a drain and patch it when the work is done.

#99 Soņadora

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 03:05 PM

hmm....not crazy about drilling a hole there. It would have to be in the side of the keel, which I suppose is ok. Bottom line though is that I'm at the boat almost every day. I'm ok with some water getting in there and I can vacuum it out. I just hadn't realized how much water had been flowing into the chain locker. So the real lesson learned here is that I need to find a way to cover up the chain inlet. Offshore, the anchors should be stowed and the chain put away. Then I can completely cover that inlet. John McGrady reported a problem like this when he sailed from Seattle to the South Pacific. After pounding into heavy seas and shipping a lot of water on board, the floorboards down below started floating. In his case, though, the hose to the drain had split.



#100 Jose Carumba

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 03:41 PM

The drains clog and there's nowhere for the water to go but in through the anchor hawse (or whatever you call it).


It is called the spurling pipe, no kidding.




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