1039 replies to this topic

[Robcooper0767]

Stickboy,

Should I try to round the bronze cap (or get it honed?)  it's not wide enough "head to tail".  Seems to make more sense to take some out of the cap than try to sand a stainless steel shaft?

it's about .010-.012 too small head to toe (2.342 instead of 2.354-2.355)

R

[Ajax]

Rob-

 

You're saying that the cap is tapered (head to tail)?  First, just sand the shaft as Stickboy says. You'd be surprised at the burrs and imperfections a light sanding will remove. If that fails, then we'll look at modifying the bronze cap. Bronze is soft, and you don't want to weaken it by removing material or stretching it.

[Ajax]

Well, I've endured my first screw-up involving drilling a hole into my boat.

 

I used the installation directions available from Raymarine and measured 20 times, and still installed the mounting socket incorrectly by nearly 5", which resulted in the tiller being almost on centerline when the tiller pilot was fully extended.

 

I filled the hole with epoxy, but now I'll have to sand it and put a dot of paint on it. Grrrrrrrr!

I managed to work out where the mounting socket should go to ensure equal travel of the tiller, and the proper distance from the tiller head, and I've at least got the tiller pilot at a 90 degree angle from the tiller.

I also had to flip the little rheostat inside for a port side installation, because the fluxgate compass would be driving backwards, because the unit is setup for a stbd side installation from the factory.

 

Hopefully I'll run the wiring this week and the installation will be complete.

[stickboy]

Aww, bummer. I hate drilling holes in the boat, that would bum me out wicked. Personally I'd consider bedding a panhead or countersunk bolt in the hole, it will catch your eye less.

I'm surprised you have to do something physical in this day and age to set it to port but I'm sure that's what the instructions say.

[stickboy]

Rob, I'm with Ajax, I'm unclear what you mean head-to-toe. Is it tapered? Not deep enough? Is it out of round? Too small in diameter? If it's diameter maybe you can try throwing the cap in the oven for a while and chilling the rudder shaft (I've had success with canned air upside down but I'm low budget shadetree). If it's too shallow, how so? Do the holes in the rudder shaft not line up?  

 

Sometimes you just need a bigger hammer.

[Ajax]

Well, this thing isn't even an ST1000, it's an old Raymarine Autohelm 1000...the early version.

 

I tested it yesterday under engine power and it drives the boat well enough, but the autotack function does not appear to be working. Bummer. Well, I only paid $150 for it.

 

I hope the newer ST series of tiller pilots are a drop-in replacement.

 

Aww, bummer. I hate drilling holes in the boat, that would bum me out wicked. Personally I'd consider bedding a panhead or countersunk bolt in the hole, it will catch your eye less.

I'm surprised you have to do something physical in this day and age to set it to port but I'm sure that's what the instructions say.

[Alex W]

You can get extensions for the ST series ones that give you a lot of flexibility over where that hole is located.

[toddster]

Actually, mine came with a ca. 5 or 6 inch rod extension that I don't need.  I think it's in the chart table somewhere.  I removed the extension and the ST2000 dropped perfectly into the hole/tiller pin previously installed for the PO's autohelm.  Of course, the electrical socket was different.  

 

I've found the auto-tack feature to be great... when it works.  Half of the time, Otto tacks correctly, then over-corrects and puts us into irons.  (Especially if we're tacking, say, directly in front of a beach full of people.)   I suspect that the problem is probably the current in the Columbia, but not really convinced yet.  i.e. Otto "learns" the amount of tiller movement needed to stay on course in the port tack, then when we swing around to starboard tack, the current is on the other side and the responses are all wrong.  So now I usually hit the autotack keys, then hit "+10" a couple of times right after.  Then I fine tune things after I get the sheets squared away.  

[Ajax]

Well, it looks like Otto has a faulty synapse in his brain or something.

 

As an electronics dude, I made sure that all of my wire connections are clean and tight. I used the Dri-Plug parts that forum members graciously contributed. I restrained the wires every 18" with wire clamps, and Otto is on his own DC switch. The Dri-Plug where Otto plugs in, is hidden in a cockpit coaming due to an excellent suggestion from Stickboy.

 

I tested Otto in place at the dock. I then motored around my cove, and he functioned perfectly.

Yesterday, I went sailing and he performed correctly while I raised sails, and gave a huge sigh of relief for the convenience.

Later in the sail, he began to dump to "Standby" from "Auto" mode for no reason. Then, he would simply shut off and re-activate for no reason, as though there was a loose power wire. I noticed that if I kept plugging him in, the power light would flicker and die.

 

I ran a multi-meter over the entire boat wire run for the auto pilot, and it's perfect. No loose conections, 12v available at all legs. I took Otto home, and connected him to my 50cc scooter battery (12v), and he behaved the same screwy way. The power light would flicker and die, and he would power on intermittantly and briefly. Otto totally mutinied against me on the transit home, and I had to wrestle with the boat and sails alone, and docking was an adventure.

 

I took the body apart and verified that the primary power wires were clean and secure. I took the male part of the Dri-Plug apart, and it was all clean and tight. I was using alligator clips with the scooter battery. It seemed that if I scraped the Dri-Plug prongs with the alligator clips, Otto would power up. After scraping them a bit, he seemed to power up reliably.

 

I am hoping that the problem was simply oxidation on the contacts after a long period of disuse. If I can't get it working reliably, I guess I'll be shopping for an ST2000.

 

I will say this:

The AH1000 easily had the grunt to sail my boat close-hauled in 28 knots of breeze yesterday. Admittedly, I was using my 90% jib and a full main. The trick is obviously to help the unit out by balancing your sails.

 

Pray for Otto's speedy recovery.

[Innocent Bystander]

Well, it looks like Otto has a faulty synapse in his brain or something.
 
As an electronics dude, I made sure that all of my wire connections are clean and tight. I used the Dri-Plug parts that forum members graciously contributed. I restrained the wires every 18" with wire clamps, and Otto is on his own DC switch. The Dri-Plug where Otto plugs in, is hidden in a cockpit coaming due to an excellent suggestion from Stickboy.
 
I tested Otto in place at the dock. I then motored around my cove, and he functioned perfectly.
Yesterday, I went sailing and he performed correctly while I raised sails, and gave a huge sigh of relief for the convenience.
Later in the sail, he began to dump to "Standby" from "Auto" mode for no reason. Then, he would simply shut off and re-activate for no reason, as though there was a loose power wire. I noticed that if I kept plugging him in, the power light would flicker and die.
 
I ran a multi-meter over the entire boat wire run for the auto pilot, and it's perfect. No loose conections, 12v available at all legs. I took Otto home, and connected him to my 50cc scooter battery (12v), and he behaved the same screwy way. The power light would flicker and die, and he would power on intermittantly and briefly. Otto totally mutinied against me on the transit home, and I had to wrestle with the boat and sails alone, and docking was an adventure.
 
I took the body apart and verified that the primary power wires were clean and secure. I took the male part of the Dri-Plug apart, and it was all clean and tight. I was using alligator clips with the scooter battery. It seemed that if I scraped the Dri-Plug prongs with the alligator clips, Otto would power up. After scraping them a bit, he seemed to power up reliably.
 
I am hoping that the problem was simply oxidation on the contacts after a long period of disuse. If I can't get it working reliably, I guess I'll be shopping for an ST2000.
 
I will say this:
The AH1000 easily had the grunt to sail my boat close-hauled in 28 knots of breeze yesterday. Admittedly, I was using my 90% jib and a full main. The trick is obviously to help the unit out by balancing your sails.
 
Pray for Otto's speedy recovery.

Ajax

I'd say there is a good chance you solved it. My first cruising boat had an auto helm 4000 and the plug had a tendency to create that sort of intermittent problem.

God luck.

[Slim]

Ajax, I think those plugs are the achilles heal of that pilot - here's a post with some answers in it, check it out.

 

http://forums.sailin...16#entry1124894

[Robcooper0767]

Ajax, I'm jealous you are already sailing.....DUDE, I don't even have a Rudder!!!!!!

 

Here' the answer to the bronze rudder cap.  My explanation was obviously confusing.....No, it is not supposed to be tapered, and it's just a tiny bit out of round.  No issues with depth, etc.  Guess that during manufacture, the cap was not "perfectly" rounded (but then, neither is my rudder shaft I'm sure).

So answer is, not tapered, just a bit of bronze material left that keeps it from being perfectly round at 2.354 diameter.  I called Rudy and left message, but need to try him again to see what he suggests.

 

Also for Rudder Install:  Advice please

Stickboy, you mentioned you've done this before on P30.  what is correct way to install?

Is it the following?

Before installing (with epoxy, I understand you want to do a dry run to find out if you need 1 or 2 washers to take up the up and down slop.  After determining correct number of washers/spacers, is this the correct order?

1.  Bottom bushing put all the way to bottom of rudder shaft at top of rudder (before getting rudder "near the boat")

2.  Put epoxy on bottom rudder bushing/rudder tube at the boat

3.  Insert Rudder shaft into rudder tube

4.  Elevate rudder

5.  install top bushing (with epoxy) and washer/spacer(s) (1 or 2 to take up "space")

6.  Install bronze rudder cap and bolt.

7.  stand back..........

 

Clean Epoxy residue?

Question:  How do you ensure that you don't get residual epoxy "everywhere" or in places that would basically freeze up the movement.  I ask this because I'm concerned about being "sloppy" and having epoxy get where I don't want it.

You might avoid alot of epoxy mess by installing the bushings with epoxy and cleaning residual mess, BUT,

 

****.  If you install (epoxy) bottom bushng in the rudder tube, then try to slip rudder shaft all the way through the rudder tube, I can see alot of pressure and manipulation (and time!) trying to "thread the needle".  Also, think that it would be just harder to do, or screw up something else, since this is supposed to be a tight fit anyway.

 

So, what's the right way?


Got my PCV kit from Indigo!!!

 

 

Rob

[Kaptainkriz]

When my AH800 did the same thing I cut all the connectors off and used a locking 12v lighter plug instead. All was good after that.

Ajax, I think those plugs are the achilles heal of that pilot - here's a post with some answers in it, check it out.
 
http://forums.sailin...16#entry1124894

[Ajax]

Excellent link, thanks.

 

It happens under power and under sail, problem was replicated in the garage, so I guess it is the connector.  If the problem persists, I'll trim it and splice in a different connector.

 

Ajax, I think those plugs are the achilles heal of that pilot - here's a post with some answers in it, check it out.

 

http://forums.sailin...16#entry1124894

[hard aground]

When my AH800 did the same thing I cut all the connectors off and used a locking 12v lighter plug instead. All was good after that.
 

Ajax, I think those plugs are the achilles heal of that pilot - here's a post with some answers in it, check it out.
 
http://forums.sailin...16#entry1124894

And the extra nice thing about using a 12v lighter plug is when you aren't using your pilot there's a charge point handy, or plug in a 12v cooler in the cockpit.

[Ishmael]

Before installing (with epoxy, I understand you want to do a dry run to find out if you need 1 or 2 washers to take up the up and down slop.  After determining correct number of washers/spacers, is this the correct order?

1.  Bottom bushing put all the way to bottom of rudder shaft at top of rudder (before getting rudder "near the boat")

2.  Put epoxy on bottom rudder bushing/rudder tube at the boat

3.  Insert Rudder shaft into rudder tube

4.  Elevate rudder

5.  install top bushing (with epoxy) and washer/spacer(s) (1 or 2 to take up "space")

6.  Install bronze rudder cap and bolt.

7.  stand back..........

 

Clean Epoxy residue?

Question:  How do you ensure that you don't get residual epoxy "everywhere" or in places that would basically freeze up the movement.  I ask this because I'm concerned about being "sloppy" and having epoxy get where I don't want it.

You might avoid alot of epoxy mess by installing the bushings with epoxy and cleaning residual mess, BUT,

 

****.  If you install (epoxy) bottom bushng in the rudder tube, then try to slip rudder shaft all the way through the rudder tube, I can see alot of pressure and manipulation (and time!) trying to "thread the needle".  Also, think that it would be just harder to do, or screw up something else, since this is supposed to be a tight fit anyway.

 

So, what's the right way?


Got my PCV kit from Indigo!!!

 

 

Rob

If you mask off the areas you want to bond to, then spray Pam all over everything else, you should be able to clean off any stray epoxy. I would also do a temporary fit of the rudder with Pam cooking spray on the shaft (that sounded just wrong) while the epoxy kicks, then remove it and clean up any spillage before final assembly.

[Robcooper0767]

Spoke to Rudy today.  He recommends 180 grit (Stick said 800) big difference, and even a belt sander (don't think so) on the shaft.  You were right Ajax, he said keep the bronze cap intact.  Rudy said shaft should be 2.350, mines about 2.354 and 2.356 in some places (have some work to do).

His point was you can have up to .04 gap (max) and have a good, snug fit.  Above .04, you start to get slop.

He also said bushings should spin freely (like when spinning a top) and freely move 1/2 way around the shaft before they stop.  I can't even get them on the shaft - this should solve the issue of concern over trying to jam it home during install, the threading the needle problem.  If I get all to spin freely, the rudder should move in fairly easily.

 

Ish, I also like the idea of PAM (yes, it did sound dirty! but I think I'll mention it to the Admiral!!!).  Is it OK to put leave the PAM on the shaft if I can't access it to clean it off?  I will have a hard time (or impossible) to clean the PAM off since once I set the bushings (and they dry) and install the rudder since there is very little free space inside the rudder tube around the shaft.  It is acceptable to leave the PAM on or really bad idea?   what's the harm?

 

Rudy also suggested an interesting install.  Get a 2" PCV pipe, 3+ feet long and use to set the bushings in place when epoxying, and let epoxy dry for 1 full day.  Then, install rudder by just slipping it in after epoxy is dry.  The keeps the bushings true, and since the rudder will move freely after sanding, should be acceptable.

Problem is, to get the right vertical tightness, would need to dry install the rudder, with bushings to see how many washers I need to bolt on cap.  then remove, epoxy bushings, wait 1 day to dry, then do final install of rudder.  This means lifting the boat 2 different times with the boat lift, since the marina owner doesn't want me to dig a hole to allow for 2' rudder shaft.  He is concerned about creating a soft spot in the ground (that could be a cause of problem if a jackstand is placed there and sinks under the weight of a boat in off season.....can't blame him, wouldn't want to have a boat crash off the jackstands either.

 

This "let the bushings dry first" is contrary to Dan Pfeiffer writeup that says dry test it, then put the bushings and the rudder in at the same time and mount everything up (cap included so everything dries "in line").  You must take the weight off the rudder with a jack so all dries well in this process.  Rudy says he's heard that when you do it this way, and if bushings are a little off when they dry, that it has caused the rudder to bind.

 

"So much data, so little experience".  Alot of info out there....just don't want to screw it up

[steele]

Ajax, I guy on my dock uses motorcycle/snowmobile 12v sockets in his cockpit, claims they are more rubust and have a waterproof cap, might be worth a look.

[Ajax]

Well, Otto is officially psychotic.

 

It's definitely not a loose power connection. Somewhere on one of the boards, is a failing capacitor or something.

 

When you apply power to the unit, it will remain on for a period of time, then it simply dies. If you repeatedly apply power to it, the power light barely flickers and dies. If you let the unit sit unpowered for about 10 minutes, it will power up again, and work for a period of time before it dies. I have ohmed out all of the power connections and they are rock solid, so that's not the problem.

 

It was a low-buck risk, so I bought it. I'll have to come up with another solution.

[Slick470]

Ajax, if you have opened up the unit. Take a look at the board for any obvious bad connections, but also check the capacitors on the power board to see if any of the tops have swelled or cracked. If so, you definitly have a bad cap. It sounds like a cap is trying to charge but not holding it consistently so you get funky power.

 

This is really common on computer monitor power boards, Dell PC's and several TV manufacturers from the past 7-8 years or so. Somebody shipped a lot of bad capacitors in that timeframe. I've fixed about 30 or so monitors in my office by swapping out the caps, pretty easy soldering job and a ton cheaper than buying new monitors.

[Ajax]

You're absolutely right, but identifying the faulty component is the problem. I have looked at the circuit boards. They are both clean, with no signs of corrosion, and none of the capacitors look swollen or damaged in anyway.

 

I mean, there aren't that many of them. I guess I could buy some, replace them and pray.

[Kaptainkriz]

Wash it in alcohol anyway and see if it helps... Check for loose solder joint. I had one of mine open on the board at the motor transistors and it kind f behaved like that.

[mrgnstrn]

actually....this sounds crazy but isn't.....

 

put it in the dishwasher with NO SOAP.

 

make sure you do the "heated dry" part.

 

the pure water will wash out any salt, and without the soap it won't corrode any connections.

 

then dry dry dry with heat.

 

maybe throw it in the oven on 200F for a half hour or so when you are done washing to make sure it's dry.

 

-M

[Ajax]

I'm on a well, and my water isn't that pure. It contains many minerals, and I have to use a water softener plant to reduce the minerals. They aren't completely eliminated. I'm certain that mineral traces would persist between circuits that would just cause more damage.

 

I have done what you are suggesting with de-mineralized water from the reactor chemistry guys when I served on submarines. I washed down the guts of some VHF radios and got them working again. I could probably buy a gallon of distilled or de-mineralized water from the grocery store if I wanted to try it.

[Alex W]

Cold solder joints is a good guess.  I've fixed numerous high current electronics by finding solder breaks and then reflowing them.  

 

Look first at the largest traces and flex the components slightly to see if there are hairline cracks under the solder pad.  What can happen is that as a component (normally a power transistor of some sort) heats up that it pushes on one of it's pins more than the others and that will pop a little bit out of the board.  Then the component cools down and makes contact again.

[mrgnstrn]

I'm on a well, and my water isn't that pure. It contains many minerals, and I have to use a water softener plant to reduce the minerals. They aren't completely eliminated. I'm certain that mineral traces would persist between circuits that would just cause more damage.

 

I have done what you are suggesting with de-mineralized water from the reactor chemistry guys when I served on submarines. I washed down the guts of some VHF radios and got them working again. I could probably buy a gallon of distilled or de-mineralized water from the grocery store if I wanted to try it.

 

or you could visit and i can give you a gallon or two of water from our RO unit.

[Ajax]

Yesterday, a friend and I were able to replace all of my lower shrouds and turnbuckles with shiny, new Sta-lok gear.

 

All of the lower shroud bottom swage fittings had very fine, hair-line fractures and the turnbuckle threads were all galled and unadjustable.

 

The upper shrouds, forestay and backstay bottom swage fittings definitely look better, but the turnbuckles are still ugly, so all of this is on the replacement list as well. I anticipate scraping together enough pennies to get them replaced in a month or two.

 

Irie Mon has a very interesting split-backstay arrangement with a block-and-tackle backstay adjuster that I really think I would like to emulate. I'm pretty sure that this will require two external chainplates on the stern. I'll need to crawl into the lazarette to assess the structural strength of transom corners to see if it can support this arrangement.

 

Merit 25 has started a rigging business. He has created for me, a "wham-o-dyne" halyard (not to be confused with Super-wham-o-dyne) which will be a spare jib halyard, once I cut an exit hole in the mast.

 

I'm also rigging up a jib downhaul to help me manage things when I'm single-handing.

 

In spite of my greatly reduced financial firepower, I am managing to keep her in fighting trim, which I feel pretty good about.

I'll try to post some photos this week of the latest improvements.

[A_guy_in_the_Chesapeake]

Yesterday, a friend and I were able to replace all of my lower shrouds and turnbuckles with shiny, new Sta-lok gear.

 

All of the lower shroud bottom swage fittings had very fine, hair-line fractures and the turnbuckle threads were all galled and unadjustable.

 

The upper shrouds, forestay and backstay bottom swage fittings definitely look better, but the turnbuckles are still ugly, so all of this is on the replacement list as well. I anticipate scraping together enough pennies to get them replaced in a month or two.

 

Irie Mon has a very interesting split-backstay arrangement with a block-and-tackle backstay adjuster that I really think I would like to emulate. I'm pretty sure that this will require two external chainplates on the stern. I'll need to crawl into the lazarette to assess the structural strength of transom corners to see if it can support this arrangement.

 

Merit 25 has started a rigging business. He has created for me, a "wham-o-dyne" halyard (not to be confused with Super-wham-o-dyne) which will be a spare jib halyard, once I cut an exit hole in the mast.

 

I'm also rigging up a jib downhaul to help me manage things when I'm single-handing.

 

In spite of my greatly reduced financial firepower, I am managing to keep her in fighting trim, which I feel pretty good about.

I'll try to post some photos this week of the latest improvements.

 

Is there a reason that some reinforcing hard points (thinkin' like a coupla G10 blocks) couldn't be epoxied to the inside of the hull w/appropriate tabbing to provide the needed strength to hold through-bolts? 

[Hike, Bitches!]

Ajax, nice.keep up the good work...good seeing you last weekend!

 

Rob..I didn't even know Dyson's had a website, but that hardware store is about 1 mile south of the turn off to Callaway to get to Piney Point Lighthouse. I had 1/16" thick by 1" by prolly a 50ft roll.

[toddster]

I've just been messing around inside my transom (replacing the traveler and other fiascos). So, the hull back there s only about 3/8" thick, and the backstay is attached by sinking it into a 2"-thick x 4" wide build-up of fiberglass layers.  (All the chainplates on old ericsons are  sunk into the hull - guess they never thought they'd have to replace them.)  Anyway, seems like you just need to spread the load over a similarly wide area.

 

BTW:  In case you have trouble reaching things from the lazarette...  My boat has lots of inaccessible hardware hidden behind the liner (installed before the hull and deck were joined) and the access hatches to bow and stern spaces are made for... people with far narrower shoulders than I.  Anyhow, I've had to cut a lot of holes and install deck plates in the liner and soon in the deck.  I've gotten over cringing about it.  But it occurred to me that with a bit of planning, holes cut into the transom might make good locations for stereo speakers.  In case you were going to do that anyway, it saves a lot of dislocating your shoulder and still not reaching that bolt anyway.   

[Ishmael]

I've just been messing around inside my transom (replacing the traveler and other fiascos). So, the hull back there s only about 3/8" thick, and the backstay is attached by sinking it into a 2"-thick x 4" wide build-up of fiberglass layers.  (All the chainplates on old ericsons are  sunk into the hull - guess they never thought they'd have to replace them.)  Anyway, seems like you just need to spread the load over a similarly wide area.

 

BTW:  In case you have trouble reaching things from the lazarette...  My boat has lots of inaccessible hardware hidden behind the liner (installed before the hull and deck were joined) and the access hatches to bow and stern spaces are made for... people with far narrower shoulders than I.  Anyhow, I've had to cut a lot of holes and install deck plates in the liner and soon in the deck.  I've gotten over cringing about it.  But it occurred to me that with a bit of planning, holes cut into the transom might make good locations for stereo speakers.  In case you were going to do that anyway, it saves a lot of dislocating your shoulder and still not reaching that bolt anyway.   

 

You could cut a bunch of holes and have quadrophenia.

 

Or quintophenia, or even sextophenia, if you can find enough willing participants.

[mrgnstrn]

You probably don't need any reinforcing at all if you go to the corners.

 

the corners are naturally reinforced by the shape of the corner.  the hull side provides a lot of rigidity in the bending direction (it acts like part of an I-beam).

 

you need the reinforcing in the middle of the transom because there is no other support in the "vertical" direction (i.e., perpendicular to the face of the transom, in the direction of the load)

 

if I were doing this to install a backstay adjuster, i'd go fiber all the way around, and

1) install beefy padeyes on the deck in the corners,

2) as backing plates for the "deck" padeyes - matching padeyes on the underside of the deck.

3) thru-bolt a third beefy padeye on the inside transom under this,

4)lash the two together with some spectra, or a simple eye-to-eye turnbuckle.

 

Since your transom has an overhang this is easy to do.

 

(my reverse transom makes it hard to put an attachement on deck and tie it to the hull on the transom, I'd just put it on the corners of the outside transom.)

 

now you've provided an easy attachement point on the deck, and transfered the load to the hull. bingo.

 

-M

[Robcooper0767]

HB:  THanks.  It's fallen lower on my list due to Rudder and Keel.  Almost there!

Question:

PCV kit installed and before I re-synch the carb, I figured I'd tune her up.

I've got about a 15-20 minute motoring from dock to sail (via channel), so I'm required to motor, versus sail in and out of dock.

The coil works but looks pretty "corroded", thinking of replacing it.  Moyer Marine:  $50.00

For the tune up:  Moyer has an Ignitor Elec Ignition (replaces points/condenser).  Bottom line ($-wise) is: Tune up parts with Electronic replacement inside distributor (if I have a Delco distributor - think I do) is about $60.00 more total for Plugs, Ignitor kit, Rotor, Cap.

Long ago - 30+ yrs, I put one of these, a Mallory kit, on my old 1972 Celica for the same effect.  It worked great, basically forever.

Opinions please:  Stick with the regular tuneup w/ Points, Plugs, Condenser, Distrib Cap.

Any horror stories about this kit?

http://www.moyermari...orebuilder.html

  Product No. - IGLM_13_195 Ignitor electronic ignition kit - late model
 

 

Thanks

Rob

[craigjoh]

Replacing the points on my 77 Toyota Corona (486K miles, my daily driver) with an ignitor was one of the best mods I've ever done to the car.  It has worked flawlessly for 10 years now, where I was having to dick with the points every 4-6 months.  I wouldn't think twice about doing this on a boat.

[Robcooper0767]

I'm going with it......just have to check the distributor.....R

[sculpin]

Ajax, two comments on the backstay project.  Firstly, keep in mind that the loads on the corners will be a lot less than the straight version, and as has been noted the corners are stronger than the middle of the transom.  Secondly, as a backing plate you can use a slab of hardwood - easy to shape, slap some epoxy on and glue it up.  G-10 is overkill on this and if you are worried about rot I'll have to ask why you think it would be getting wet up in there...

[Ajax]

Sculp-

 

There is truth in what you say. However, my view has just been tainted by another racer with a P30-

 

He has a ratcheting, mechanical, backstay adjuster, so he just kept the single backstay. The simplicity was pretty enticing. He managed to avoid the hydraulic adjuster. Ugh...the choices!

 

Ajax, two comments on the backstay project.  Firstly, keep in mind that the loads on the corners will be a lot less than the straight version, and as has been noted the corners are stronger than the middle of the transom.  Secondly, as a backing plate you can use a slab of hardwood - easy to shape, slap some epoxy on and glue it up.  G-10 is overkill on this and if you are worried about rot I'll have to ask why you think it would be getting wet up in there...

[mrgnstrn]

yeah...you don't need hydraulics. rope/wire/spectra is fine with purchase for your deal.

 

-M

[Merit 25]

+1 and you can lead it farther forward if needed, also double end it with faster adjustments. 

 

yeah...you don't need hydraulics. rope/wire/spectra is fine with purchase for your deal.

 

-M

[Bruce T. Shark]

Sculp-

 

There is truth in what you say. However, my view has just been tainted by another racer with a P30-

 

He has a ratcheting, mechanical, backstay adjuster, so he just kept the single backstay. The simplicity was pretty enticing. He managed to avoid the hydraulic adjuster. Ugh...the choices!

 

Ajax, two comments on the backstay project.  Firstly, keep in mind that the loads on the corners will be a lot less than the straight version, and as has been noted the corners are stronger than the middle of the transom.  Secondly, as a backing plate you can use a slab of hardwood - easy to shape, slap some epoxy on and glue it up.  G-10 is overkill on this and if you are worried about rot I'll have to ask why you think it would be getting wet up in there...

 

Ajax; Go with the bascading backstay arrangement.  I had a adjustable harken turnbuckle (looked like a periscope) to tighten the backstay up, the cascade is faster, easier and you keep the weight out of the back of the boat during mark roundings.