100 replies to this topic

[nige]

I need to replace the mainsheet track on a 32ft Multihull.

It has 4 1/2 inch bolts each side of the cockpit holding it to the deck.

The builder seemed to use about a gallon of 5200.

I removed the nuts but the bolts are caked with 5200, as is the full contact area of the track to the deck. The bolt heads are not accessible as they are inside the track so I cannot wind them out.


The track is in a bit of a recess in the deck so its hard to get a tool in there to cut into the 5200.

I have tried applying considerable pressure (with the mainsheet) and cannot get it to budge an inch.


Anyone have any tips?!


Thanks!

[Ishmael]

This stuff

[nige]

This stuff

Thanks - saw that on another thread too. I was a bit worried about what it might to do the paintwork, its not a gelcoat boat.

Will probably get some and give it a careful try though.

[Wet Spreaders]

I had the same problem with wooden toe rails stuck on with bolts and 5200.

I could get the bolts out, but I could not move the wood. I tried prying and chemicals. In the end, cheesewire was the best. I bought some steel guitar strings, tied one end to a stanchion base and the other to a line around a winch. Then, one click at a time over 30 mins or so, I was able to cheeewire through the 5200 bead with no damage to the wood or the deck.

[dinghydoc]

I had the same problem with wooden toe rails stuck on with bolts and 5200.

I could get the bolts out, but I could not move the wood. I tried prying and chemicals. In the end, cheesewire was the best. I bought some steel guitar strings, tied one end to a stanchion base and the other to a line around a winch. Then, one click at a time over 30 mins or so, I was able to cheeewire through the 5200 bead with no damage to the wood or the deck.

Damn, nice trick!

[Vernon Green]

Someone mentioned to me that getting 5200 really cold would do it. They suggested for small areas that you could use "keyboard Duster" turn the bottle upside down and it comes out VERY COLD. Hit the track and 5200 with that and see what happens.


"

[entropy]

Never tried really cold, but a heat gun works.

[nige]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will try guitar wire to see if i can get at least to the first bolts on each side.

The issue I have with the guitar wire is that i cannot take the bolts out, they are captive in the track so I cant wire past those.

I am also concerned about using a head gun with the paint work. Maybe I just need to make sure the track gets hot and not the deck (again, its recessed deeply so not much room).


cheers

Nige

[ICBT]

This stuff

Here's a link to actually purchasing Anti-Bond:
Fisheries Supply

This stuff is amazing. I've used it on paint before, I don't think it would ruin it. It's not too pricey, you could buy a can and test out a small area first. Be sure to let it sit for a little while.

[LakeBoy]

What issue are you trying to solve? Is it absolutely necessary to remove the track?

Can you apply slow, steady pressure up on the bottom of the bolts? Maybe you can start on one end using a combination of the main sheet lifting and pushing the bolts to get a start. Then wedges to work down the length slowly but steadily applying force to separate the track from the boat.

[nige]

What issue are you trying to solve? Is it absolutely necessary to remove the track?

Can you apply slow, steady pressure up on the bottom of the bolts? Maybe you can start on one end using a combination of the main sheet lifting and pushing the bolts to get a start. Then wedges to work down the length slowly but steadily applying force to separate the track from the boat.

Thanks - yes, I am trying to replace the track completely. I may be able to get a car jack under the 4 bolts and get some consistent pressure to help - thanks.

[LakeBoy]

Is the track worn or damaged? Changing sizes?

You mentioned the track is in a bit of a recess. What are the ends like? Can you insert any type of bar or rod?

If you can get a bar extended out and lift the end, that will give you some more leverage. Again, recommending slow steady pressure. Another alternative is rigging a support like a saw horse over the end and using a turn buckle to twist on some pressure over time. A turn buckle with an "L" shaped bolt inserted into the end or in Eye bolt with the rod/bar inserted into the track and through the eye.

[nige]

Is the track worn or damaged? Changing sizes?

You mentioned the track is in a bit of a recess. What are the ends like? Can you insert any type of bar or rod?

If you can get a bar extended out and lift the end, that will give you some more leverage. Again, recommending slow steady pressure. Another alternative is rigging a support like a saw horse over the end and using a turn buckle to twist on some pressure over time. A turn buckle with an "L" shaped bolt inserted into the end or in Eye bolt with the rod/bar inserted into the track and through the eye.

Replacing a lewmar one with a harken windward sheeting track.

Thanks for the advice on the slow steady pressure - that seems like a good idea whatever way ends up working on the 5200 itself.

I can get a bar int the end of the track, the recess is fore/aft of the track, the ends are open.

Thanks all - think this is a lot to go on.

[Star_Sailor]

Can you use an angle grinder to remove some of the track to get to the bolts? Might be a bit harsh, but if you are not trying to save the track ... sacrifice it for your sanity.

[vmg]

Oooerrr Nige tricky job!

Can you get a battery opperated impact driver on the bolts?

You might be able to make up an angled blade for one of those vibrating multi-cutters, and get it under the track.


Mind that nice blue paint though.

Paul

[breezetrees]

I've heard of people bolting low-profile track right on top of an existing track if you can get the same hole spacing.

[mustang__1]

i usually use a blow torch and a knife. oh, and a glove. but, thats to get the scuppers out of a 29er, from the way iread that you dont quite have the same amount of access.

[Left Hook]

i usually use a blow torch and a knife. oh, and a glove. but, thats to get the scuppers out of a 29er, from the way iread that you dont quite have the same amount of access.

So how is your post even moderately relevant?

[mustang__1]

i usually use a blow torch and a knife. oh, and a glove. but, thats to get the scuppers out of a 29er, from the way iread that you dont quite have the same amount of access.

So how is your post even moderately relevant?

how is yours relevant? or do you just like to search out my posts and derail threads.

[Recidivist]

Nige

I think removing the bolts is a key issue before putting too much effort into lifting the track. If you were able to remove the nuts, clearly you have access to the bottom of the bolts (end of the thread). How much thread is exposed? Is there enough to put a nut on, followed by a second nut and tighten the 2 nuts against each other? If you can do this, you can place a spanner or socket on the bottom nut and try to torque the bolt inside the hole to break the 5200. I'd try soaking with the solvent as well to soften it as much as possible. But if you can't budge the bolts within the hole this way, you won't get far trying to move them vertically by applying upward pressure.

Assuming you are successful at removing the bolts, I'd try using a strong paint scraper with a bevelled edge as a chisel. Width to suit the rebate within which the track sits. You may have to look around, but here in AUS I have a couple of these multi purpose scrapers. The blade is a bit over 1mm thick, made from stainless steel and has a sharp bevel. The blade edge is also off square by 5 - 10 degrees which also helps. These have a strong wooden handle and tapping away with a hammer forces the scraper under the track like a wedge. But the depth of operation is limited - if you are trying to lift 10' of track, the wire is the only thing I can see that will work.

Good luck and please report back.

Oh, and don't use 5200 on the new track!

[GybeSet®]

Replacing a lewmar one with a harken windward sheeting track.

it's not the track that is 'windward sheeting'

if the current car is of the right shape, tap into it and add the Harken windward sheeting Retrofit 'Adapter Kit' to it

if the car is not of the right dimensions, get someone to make it fit

[nige]

Replacing a lewmar one with a harken windward sheeting track.

it's not the track that is 'windward sheeting'

if the current car is of the right shape, tap into it and add the Harken windward sheeting Retrofit 'Adapter Kit' to it

if the car is not of the right dimensions, get someone to make it fit

Yeah I get that - I just dont like it, I am not a fan of the bearings or any part of the system. The retrofit also does not fit this car. Admittedly, had I known how much of a headache removing the track would be, I would not have purchased the upgrade so lightly.

But I now have the system I want sitting in my garage and i would much prefer it on the boat.


Recidivist - thanks but the hex nuts are captive in the bottom part of the track, the track holds them in place so they cannot turn, so there is no way to loosen by twisting from the bottom of the bolt.


cheers

Nige

[LakeBoy]

I know this solution is a bit of a weight issue. Have you thought about tapping the old track and bolt the new track on top of it?

[nige]

I know this solution is a bit of a weight issue. Have you thought about tapping the old track and bolt the new track on top of it?

Yeah, someone else mentioned that too but the track is 7ft long, weighs a ton and this is a new boat so I want it to look right too.

Will dig into the fun over thanks giving probably!

Thanks all.

I'll report back on what worked (or didnt)!

[vmg]

Can you get a holesaw [without the pilot] to fit snuggly over the bolts from the underside to cut the deck to bolt bond?

[keel trimmer]

i usually use a blow torch and a knife. oh, and a glove. but, thats to get the scuppers out of a 29er, from the way iread that you dont quite have the same amount of access.

So how is your post even moderately relevant?

how is yours relevant? or do you just like to search out my posts and derail threads.

Each of you boys go sit in your corner. Go study or something.



Back to the thread. Love the cheesewire idea. Thanks.

[entropy]

Is it the whole track that is bolted down, or just the bolts?

[nige]

Is it the whole track that is bolted down, or just the bolts?

The whole track.

[Windward]

Can you grind just above the bolts to remove them, then start pulling with the main from one end? And if you can get the bolts out, the wire option comes into play.

[nige]

Can you grind just above the bolts to remove them, then start pulling with the main from one end? And if you can get the bolts out, the wire option comes into play.

Yeah, i think thats the last resort scenario. Its the high beam, high load track so thats a lot of shit to grind away, plus its only a year old and despite the fact I want to replace, it, also want to keep it in a functioning state for whatever reason (mental hoarding issue probably).

I am pretty sure the grinder will come out after I have spent a weekend swearing at it.

Pretty sure the first plan is going to be pressure on the bolts from underneath and pulling from above with a heat gun/guitar wire and see if there is any promise.

[Rasputin22]

I've used Fredricksen low-profile track to fit right on top of an integral track on the rear crossbeam of a Tornado (un-removeable!) and topped right in. I think Fredricksen got bought out by Lewmar, but it is outstanding gear and your original track will take the spanning load across the cockpit and I would think that this solution would save you lots of anguish. Just did a search and it was Ronstan that bought Fredricksen. Here is a windward sheeting car that might be right up your alley, http://www.ronstan.u...?ProdNo=RC12227

Kind of pricey, but quality stuff, probably on a par with Harken.

[Recidivist]

Can you grind just above the bolts to remove them, then start pulling with the main from one end? And if you can get the bolts out, the wire option comes into play.

Yeah, i think thats the last resort scenario. Its the high beam, high load track so thats a lot of shit to grind away, plus its only a year old and despite the fact I want to replace, it, also want to keep it in a functioning state for whatever reason (mental hoarding issue probably).

I am pretty sure the grinder will come out after I have spent a weekend swearing at it.

Pretty sure the first plan is going to be pressure on the bolts from underneath and pulling from above with a heat gun/guitar wire and see if there is any promise.

Grumpy has previously advocated using petrol (gas to you?) to soften 5200, but that mightn't be good for your paint. But you'll have to apply masking tape to protect the paint if you bring out the grinder as well.

Is the track straight or curved?

[U20guy2]

For removing the bolts I've found one way that seems to work for me in a few different cases. From the head side using a standard drill with the torque converter setting on the drill to a lower setting allowing it to slip ie click ie vibrate the bolt as your trying to back them out this seems to knock them loose in some cases and back them out. Also warming the area up helps also soften up the 5200 a tad and might give you just enough wiggle to break them loose and back them out. If they aren't threaded through the track or deck or mount location you could try the hammer drill from the bottom side of the bolt - toss a socket on the drill that fits over the bolt if you can get to the underside and see if you can essentially vibrate them loose while pushing them up through the deck and track etc.

The warm 5200 vs the piano or cheese wire idea to pry the track off the deck sounds like a good idea to try.

[nige]

Can you grind just above the bolts to remove them, then start pulling with the main from one end? And if you can get the bolts out, the wire option comes into play.

Yeah, i think thats the last resort scenario. Its the high beam, high load track so thats a lot of shit to grind away, plus its only a year old and despite the fact I want to replace, it, also want to keep it in a functioning state for whatever reason (mental hoarding issue probably).

I am pretty sure the grinder will come out after I have spent a weekend swearing at it.

Pretty sure the first plan is going to be pressure on the bolts from underneath and pulling from above with a heat gun/guitar wire and see if there is any promise.

Grumpy has previously advocated using petrol (gas to you?) to soften 5200, but that mightn't be good for your paint. But you'll have to apply masking tape to protect the paint if you bring out the grinder as well.

Is the track straight or curved?

Its straight. Thanks for all the ideas, for anyone else suggesting i bolt on another track - appreciate the suggestions but its not going to happen. Its a new boat and its going to look right, i have also already bought the harken track so not after other hardware suggestions.

(also, to be clear - i have no access to the head side of the bolts, they are captive inside the track).

I have a plan from the above suggestions - thanks!


Nige

[dacapo]

I had the same problem with wooden toe rails stuck on with bolts and 5200.

I could get the bolts out, but I could not move the wood. I tried prying and chemicals. In the end, cheesewire was the best. I bought some steel guitar strings, tied one end to a stanchion base and the other to a line around a winch. Then, one click at a time over 30 mins or so, I was able to cheeewire through the 5200 bead with no damage to the wood or the deck.

time consuming, but it works. We used that technique at the boat yard I used to work at when trying to take 5200'd toerails off

[aus_stevo]

this is the captive head of the bolt inside the track itself, like the harken windward sheeting high load one?
now that you have the nuts off, pull the track sideways with a chain block to slide it off the heads of the bolts?, with a lot of heat gun usage you might have a half a chance.

I'm thinking chain block hooked in the the outboard edge of the track and pulling inboard to a pad eye or anything else really strong

[BalticBandit]

I know this solution is a bit of a weight issue. Have you thought about tapping the old track and bolt the new track on top of it?

Yeah, someone else mentioned that too but the track is 7ft long, weighs a ton and this is a new boat so I want it to look right too.

Will dig into the fun over thanks giving probably!

Thanks all.

I'll report back on what worked (or didnt)!

Drill out the old bolts? Since you don't care about the track, and since you seem to have access to the bolts from below, drill off the old head and then using a rod the size of the bolt - hammer the bolt through to the underside.

then use the guitar string approach to cut through the 5200... Note - remember not to run the wire onto the winch itself

[nige]

I know this solution is a bit of a weight issue. Have you thought about tapping the old track and bolt the new track on top of it?

Yeah, someone else mentioned that too but the track is 7ft long, weighs a ton and this is a new boat so I want it to look right too.

Will dig into the fun over thanks giving probably!

Thanks all.

I'll report back on what worked (or didnt)!

Drill out the old bolts? Since you don't care about the track, and since you seem to have access to the bolts from below, drill off the old head and then using a rod the size of the bolt - hammer the bolt through to the underside.

then use the guitar string approach to cut through the 5200... Note - remember not to run the wire onto the winch itself

The heads are captive inside the track - I dont have access to them without grinding out the track and if i did that I could just unwind the bolts.

I do have access to the thread end of the bolt but cutting them off and drilling up is sounds like an even more daunting task.

Stevo - like the idea of pulling the track sideways off the heads but with the amount of 5200 holding the track down, that would take a huge amount of force....

[BalticBandit]

I know this solution is a bit of a weight issue. Have you thought about tapping the old track and bolt the new track on top of it?

Yeah, someone else mentioned that too but the track is 7ft long, weighs a ton and this is a new boat so I want it to look right too.

Will dig into the fun over thanks giving probably!

Thanks all.

I'll report back on what worked (or didnt)!

Drill out the old bolts? Since you don't care about the track, and since you seem to have access to the bolts from below, drill off the old head and then using a rod the size of the bolt - hammer the bolt through to the underside.

then use the guitar string approach to cut through the 5200... Note - remember not to run the wire onto the winch itself

The heads are captive inside the track - I dont have access to them without grinding out the track and if i did that I could just unwind the bolts.

I do have access to the thread end of the bolt but cutting them off and drilling up is sounds like an even more daunting task.

Stevo - like the idea of pulling the track sideways off the heads but with the amount of 5200 holding the track down, that would take a huge amount of force....

If you know where the bolt heads are inside the track, why not drill down trhough the track to the heads, drill off the heads, and then PULL the bolts out from below?

[nige]

I know this solution is a bit of a weight issue. Have you thought about tapping the old track and bolt the new track on top of it?

Yeah, someone else mentioned that too but the track is 7ft long, weighs a ton and this is a new boat so I want it to look right too.

Will dig into the fun over thanks giving probably!

Thanks all.

I'll report back on what worked (or didnt)!

Drill out the old bolts? Since you don't care about the track, and since you seem to have access to the bolts from below, drill off the old head and then using a rod the size of the bolt - hammer the bolt through to the underside.

then use the guitar string approach to cut through the 5200... Note - remember not to run the wire onto the winch itself

The heads are captive inside the track - I dont have access to them without grinding out the track and if i did that I could just unwind the bolts.

I do have access to the thread end of the bolt but cutting them off and drilling up is sounds like an even more daunting task.

Stevo - like the idea of pulling the track sideways off the heads but with the amount of 5200 holding the track down, that would take a huge amount of force....

If you know where the bolt heads are inside the track, why not drill down trhough the track to the heads, drill off the heads, and then PULL the bolts out from below?

I would like to not destroy the current track unless I really need to - obviously it may come to that pretty quickly, I am not known for my patience...

The thought of drilling the heads off of 8 1/2 inch stainless hex bolts is daunting enough before then trying to pull them out from limited space below.

I think if i was going to attack the track itself, I would just grind a hole in it then wind the bolts out.

[U20guy2]

I know this solution is a bit of a weight issue. Have you thought about tapping the old track and bolt the new track on top of it?

Yeah, someone else mentioned that too but the track is 7ft long, weighs a ton and this is a new boat so I want it to look right too.

Will dig into the fun over thanks giving probably!

Thanks all.

I'll report back on what worked (or didnt)!

Drill out the old bolts? Since you don't care about the track, and since you seem to have access to the bolts from below, drill off the old head and then using a rod the size of the bolt - hammer the bolt through to the underside.

then use the guitar string approach to cut through the 5200... Note - remember not to run the wire onto the winch itself

The heads are captive inside the track - I dont have access to them without grinding out the track and if i did that I could just unwind the bolts.

I do have access to the thread end of the bolt but cutting them off and drilling up is sounds like an even more daunting task.

Stevo - like the idea of pulling the track sideways off the heads but with the amount of 5200 holding the track down, that would take a huge amount of force....

If you know where the bolt heads are inside the track, why not drill down trhough the track to the heads, drill off the heads, and then PULL the bolts out from below?

Hmm? Now that idea isn't so bad. I think that might be filed away for future swearing contests when dealing with removing a track. LOL
Let us know how it goes

[Shaggy]

Sounds like a PITA on a brand new boat. Can't you just live with it or retrofit the existing car with something......

Just askin.

[nige]

Sounds like a PITA on a brand new boat. Can't you just live with it or retrofit the existing car with something......

Just askin.

Thats the route a sensible person would take for sure.

But in short - no! I dont like the setup, I could adjust the cleats and lines to make it useable but this is a cool and great looking boat and I want to keep the upgrades going as some of the parts it was built with are not quite right for racing.

I am very aware that the pain/benefit ratio of this task is terrible, but I am going to do it anyway.

[Occams Razor]

you forgot this is a family cruising boat, didn't you!

[nige]

you forgot this is a family cruising boat, didn't you!

Funny - that's what my wife said when I (stupidly) showed her this pic from Round the County last week:

Attached Files

•  blue_steel_submerged.jpg   37.89K   136 downloads

[Occams Razor]

Stormin!

[GRUMPY]

Can you grind just above the bolts to remove them, then start pulling with the main from one end? And if you can get the bolts out, the wire option comes into play.

Yeah, i think thats the last resort scenario. Its the high beam, high load track so thats a lot of shit to grind away, plus its only a year old and despite the fact I want to replace, it, also want to keep it in a functioning state for whatever reason (mental hoarding issue probably).

I am pretty sure the grinder will come out after I have spent a weekend swearing at it.

Pretty sure the first plan is going to be pressure on the bolts from underneath and pulling from above with a heat gun/guitar wire and see if there is any promise.

Grumpy has previously advocated using petrol (gas to you?) to soften 5200, but that mightn't be good for your paint. But you'll have to apply masking tape to protect the paint if you bring out the grinder as well.

Is the track straight or curved?

Cool for exposed clean up. Don't reckon it would work in this situation by the sound of it.

[Jim Conlin]

Holesaw down through the track and around bolt heads, then lift track off with some combination of goo softener, heat and brute force.

[Ishmael]

Fuck the track. Cutoff wheel in a grinder to gash line down track, find bolt heads and drill right through them with a cobalt bit and lube, drill holes out until gone, then use g-string to cut off sealant.

I did exactly this except for the line gashing to get my old Schaefer track off the aluminum I-beam supporting it. 30 minutes, done. Have spare bits on hand, you will break some.

[Rex II]

From below start the nuts till they are just less than flush, then using cribbing on the interior start at one end and bridge 2-3 nuts with a piece of 1/2 inch bar stock and place a bottle jack between the cribbing and the bar and apply a good amount of pressure. make sure you spread the load on the interior with blocks and boards to spread the load out over as much area as is reasonable. The point load on the nuts and bolts will cause the track end to want to lift. now go up and apply heat to the end of the track and it will separate on its own. shoot a lubricant like wd40 in the gap to prevent re-adhesion and move to the next 2-3 nut/bolt combos repeating as required. you should be able to remove a 6 foot track factory bedded in about an hour using this method. Do not pry from above as this can mar or bend the track.

Cheers.

[Caca Cabeza]

The easiest way by far is to take it to a reputable yard and pay them all the money that you have, and charge the rest.

[BalticBandit]

From below start the nuts till they are just less than flush, then using cribbing on the interior start at one end and bridge 2-3 nuts with a piece of 1/2 inch bar stock and place a bottle jack between the cribbing and the bar and apply a good amount of pressure. make sure you spread the load on the interior with blocks and boards to spread the load out over as much area as is reasonable. The point load on the nuts and bolts will cause the track end to want to lift. now go up and apply heat to the end of the track and it will separate on its own. shoot a lubricant like wd40 in the gap to prevent re-adhesion and move to the next 2-3 nut/bolt combos repeating as required. you should be able to remove a 6 foot track factory bedded in about an hour using this method. Do not pry from above as this can mar or bend the track.

Cheers.

clever idea

[Foreverslow]

5200 softens with heat. Try a good heat gun.

another way is a multifunction tool to cut it loose.
any hd or Lowe's has them. Or go cheap

http://www.harborfre...tool-67707.html

comes with an offset blade for wood.
it will cut right through the 5200
I would heavily mask both sides next to track to reduce chances of scratching boat

for trimming inside a boat,this tool is the bomb!

[LakeBoy]

Nige,

Any update on the project?

Heat is an interesting idea. Wonder if there is a way to apply heat to the aluminum and let it conduct that to the 5200 without tempering the alum.

[nige]

Nige,

Any update on the project?

Heat is an interesting idea. Wonder if there is a way to apply heat to the aluminum and let it conduct that to the 5200 without tempering the alum.

the only update is a little procrastination so far. The weather was pretty shite over the weekend so I put it off and worked on some indoor stuff.

I am trying to think through the heat idea, I really like the idea of applying a good amount of pressure from beneath and above then heat it but as this pic shows, the area is so restricted, I would have to only heat the track and hope it conducted but I am not convinced I could get enough area hot enough that way. I think it would be very hard to not damage the paint work if I tried to heat the edge of the 5200 directly.

The grinder is still the backup plan but I am mulling over all the other options first.

Attached Files

•  track.jpg   164.43K   170 downloads

[BalticBandit]

Nige,

Any update on the project?

Heat is an interesting idea. Wonder if there is a way to apply heat to the aluminum and let it conduct that to the 5200 without tempering the alum.

the only update is a little procrastination so far. The weather was pretty shite over the weekend so I put it off and worked on some indoor stuff.

I am trying to think through the heat idea, I really like the idea of applying a good amount of pressure from beneath and above then heat it but as this pic shows, the area is so restricted, I would have to only heat the track and hope it conducted but I am not convinced I could get enough area hot enough that way. I think it would be very hard to not damage the paint work if I tried to heat the edge of the 5200 directly.

The grinder is still the backup plan but I am mulling over all the other options first.

Go the drill route before the grinder. After all, with the drill approach the track can still be recycled for use

[Rex II]

Looking at the picture, I would verify that the traveler car will indeed fit at the depth of the recess at the extremities of travel. More than once I have mounted the Harken unit on top of the old track, including on my personal boat, because the car is quite large. It would be a shame to remove the track just to have to shim the new track to gain clearance. I'm not suggesting you haven't verified but the car is quite large. Be careful if you use the car to measure as the track loader can come out of the car easily and refilling the bearings is a PITA!

Cheers

[Goonda]

First thought after seeing that picture: What did you do to piss off that designer? Someone wasn't thinking when they decided to put the track in such a tight spot.

How many bolts do you have to remove? I'm wondering if you can heat up a wire and lace it through between the bolts. Or maybe do something with a heated putty knife bent into a hook shape of some kind.

[bammiller]

Nige,

Any update on the project?

Heat is an interesting idea. Wonder if there is a way to apply heat to the aluminum and let it conduct that to the 5200 without tempering the alum.

the only update is a little procrastination so far. The weather was pretty shite over the weekend so I put it off and worked on some indoor stuff.

I am trying to think through the heat idea, I really like the idea of applying a good amount of pressure from beneath and above then heat it but as this pic shows, the area is so restricted, I would have to only heat the track and hope it conducted but I am not convinced I could get enough area hot enough that way. I think it would be very hard to not damage the paint work if I tried to heat the edge of the 5200 directly.

The grinder is still the backup plan but I am mulling over all the other options first.

I know someone else mentioned it, but I would double check the width of the Harken car; the Midrange car is 2.75" wide (70mm) but you will need at least 3.125" opening, which looks tight as shown in your picture. Perhaps you could use a tandem set of Smallboat cars with a coupler, but based upon your 4-1 traveler controls, Midrange looks like the right size selection.

As for removing the track, if you are committed to changing it, I would cut out the center clear span of the track and use a heater of some sort to blow warm air down the middle of the track tube. While that is heating up, I would drill and tap a padeye to the top of the track and attach the main sheet and start pulling straight up. Of course you will have to attach your main halyard to the boom, but a reasonable amount of steady pressure, combined with the slow heating of track should break the seal of 5200. 5200 has a upper temperature service limit of 190 degrees (http://multimedia.3m...s6EVs6E666666--), so it wont take much for the material to soften up and let go.

I think that slow heating and reasonable amounts of vertical pressure should lift that off with no damage to the surrounding paintwork; dont rush it.

Bam Miller

[Sean]

I would leave the track on and mount the new one on top. Think of the old track as reinforcement. If you don't like it after a season, you can always start over next year.

[aus_stevo]

well?

[allen]

Has anyone ever considered passing a current through a track so that it becomes the heater element? It might take a welding power supply to do it though. I know the resistance would be very low so the current would need to be high and the voltage low. May not be practical but it would get the heat where you want it.

I know this doesn't apply here, but the best thing to do with 5200 is leave it in the tube or take it back to the store. I once saw a guy remove all his keel bolts and still could not get the keel off -- 5200.

[Ishmael]

Has anyone ever considered passing a current through a track so that it becomes the heater element? It might take a welding power supply to do it though. I know the resistance would be very low so the current would need to be high and the voltage low. May not be practical but it would get the heat where you want it.

I know this doesn't apply here, but the best thing to do with 5200 is leave it in the tube or take it back to the store. I once saw a guy remove all his keel bolts and still could not get the keel off -- 5200.

Chainsaw time.

[nige]

Sorry for keeping everyone on the edge of their seats...

Ran out of time to get started on it and am now out of the country for a couple of weeks. Will see if I can tackle it the last weekend of the year.

Thought about the electricity to heat it up but quickly dismissed it as the most likely way of killing myself.

[allen]

Sorry for keeping everyone on the edge of their seats...

Ran out of time to get started on it and am now out of the country for a couple of weeks. Will see if I can tackle it the last weekend of the year.

Thought about the electricity to heat it up but quickly dismissed it as the most likely way of killing myself.

The voltage you would need to heat it would be very low so you would not electrocute yourself. You could, however, burn yourself to death if it did work :-)

A car battery would be a great source of current if you could find out if the battery would blow up if you short it out. Hey, another way to kill yourself. Maybe you are right.

Best of luck, it sounds like a very difficult task.


Allen

[Grrr...]

Sorry for keeping everyone on the edge of their seats...

Ran out of time to get started on it and am now out of the country for a couple of weeks. Will see if I can tackle it the last weekend of the year.

Thought about the electricity to heat it up but quickly dismissed it as the most likely way of killing myself.

The voltage you would need to heat it would be very low so you would not electrocute yourself. You could, however, burn yourself to death if it did work :-)

A car battery would be a great source of current if you could find out if the battery would blow up if you short it out. Hey, another way to kill yourself. Maybe you are right.

Best of luck, it sounds like a very difficult task.

Allen

Do not under ANY circumstance attempt to use a battery or electricity to heat that up. They used to use aluminum in wires back in the 40's when copper was scarce. It's a good conductor. A boat battery will put out enough amperage to spot-weld the wires to the aluminum, and then you'll get either a nice fire, or a wonderful explosion.

[allen]

Sorry for keeping everyone on the edge of their seats...

Ran out of time to get started on it and am now out of the country for a couple of weeks. Will see if I can tackle it the last weekend of the year.

Thought about the electricity to heat it up but quickly dismissed it as the most likely way of killing myself.

The voltage you would need to heat it would be very low so you would not electrocute yourself. You could, however, burn yourself to death if it did work :-)

A car battery would be a great source of current if you could find out if the battery would blow up if you short it out. Hey, another way to kill yourself. Maybe you are right.

Best of luck, it sounds like a very difficult task.

Allen

Do not under ANY circumstance attempt to use a battery or electricity to heat that up. They used to use aluminum in wires back in the 40's when copper was scarce. It's a good conductor. A boat battery will put out enough amperage to spot-weld the wires to the aluminum, and then you'll get either a nice fire, or a wonderful explosion.

Well, if anything was going to explode it would be the battery, which is why I said I wouldn't try it without knowing from someone who had tried it that it would work. As you said, aluminum is a good conductor, almost as good as copper. A traveler rail also has a good cross section so the resistance would be very low. That means to get several hundred watts into it you are going to need a lot of current. Power is I^2 x R and if R is low, I has to be high. And now that I think of it, it is likely that the traveler is going to be lower resistance than the wires used to attach to it and in that case it is going to be the wires that get hot so just forget the whole thing.

Allen

[SilverSurfer]

Well - maybe you could combine the wire idea and the idea with the car battery. Used to build windsurfers out of EPS, and I cut the EPS with a big chese cutter made from a stainless wire (around 0.8 mm) connected to a car battery. Going along the templates it went through the EPS like butter..... Got the wire from a dentist.

[allen]

I did a rough calculation, just an order of magnitude thing. Resistivity of Aluminum is 2.7x10-8ohm-meters. Assume traveler is 1 square inch cross section or 6.5x10-4 square meters. Assume traveler is 2 meters long. Then the resistance is 2.7x10-8 x 2 / 6.5x10-4 or .83x10-4 ohms. Call it 10-4 ohms. If we want to heat it with 100 watts then we need to use the equation for power of P = I^2 x R so the current is sqrt ( P / R) or sqrt ( 10^2 / 10^4) or 1,000 amps. To get 1,000 amps through 10-4 ohms we need 0.1 volts.

I looked at a cheap arch welder and it puts out 200 amps. Using that you could get 4 watts of heating into our hypothetical traveler. That might not be enough and it might be hard on the welder, which might require 220 volts.

The battery could probably deliver more current than the arc welder but it would probably explode or catch fire at these levels. I wouldn't try it.

In summary, use a grinder.

[Rex II]

I did a rough calculation, just an order of magnitude thing. Resistivity of Aluminum is 2.7x10-8ohm-meters. Assume traveler is 1 square inch cross section or 6.5x10-4 square meters. Assume traveler is 2 meters long. Then the resistance is 2.7x10-8 x 2 / 6.5x10-4 or .83x10-4 ohms. Call it 10-4 ohms. If we want to heat it with 100 watts then we need to use the equation for power of P = I^2 x R so the current is sqrt ( P / R) or sqrt ( 10^2 / 10^4) or 1,000 amps. To get 1,000 amps through 10-4 ohms we need 0.1 volts.

I looked at a cheap arch welder and it puts out 200 amps. Using that you could get 4 watts of heating into our hypothetical traveler. That might not be enough and it might be hard on the welder, which might require 220 volts.

The battery could probably deliver more current than the arc welder but it would probably explode or catch fire at these levels. I wouldn't try it.

In summary, use a grinder.

Nice Calculations. Do Not Attempt To heat the track using current!!! If you do it will become the element in a very large flash bulb reaction. Unless that is there is some other weak link like the wiring which would need to be MT250 (1.5 inch diameter) or the source Car battery (Boom).

It can be done using a Step up transformer of say 500VA ($$$) and a proper resister 6K Ohm in line after the track rated for the output of the Transformer like an array of several Pringle can sized ones used to regulate the charge rate of large UMGE vehicles. So like 10 grand and an engineer like Allen or!

One of these will work perfectly. http://www.mcmaster....heaters/=fj7dg5

If you don't have a temp controller, they can get very hot if you oversize them, so again use a heat gun and start at the end like I suggested, It works, I've used the method on brand new Deliveries to upgrade the exact system your doing on some very pricey boats.

[allen]

I did a rough calculation, just an order of magnitude thing. Resistivity of Aluminum is 2.7x10-8ohm-meters. Assume traveler is 1 square inch cross section or 6.5x10-4 square meters. Assume traveler is 2 meters long. Then the resistance is 2.7x10-8 x 2 / 6.5x10-4 or .83x10-4 ohms. Call it 10-4 ohms. If we want to heat it with 100 watts then we need to use the equation for power of P = I^2 x R so the current is sqrt ( P / R) or sqrt ( 10^2 / 10^4) or 1,000 amps. To get 1,000 amps through 10-4 ohms we need 0.1 volts.

I looked at a cheap arch welder and it puts out 200 amps. Using that you could get 4 watts of heating into our hypothetical traveler. That might not be enough and it might be hard on the welder, which might require 220 volts.

The battery could probably deliver more current than the arc welder but it would probably explode or catch fire at these levels. I wouldn't try it.

In summary, use a grinder.

Nice Calculations. Do Not Attempt To heat the track using current!!! If you do it will become the element in a very large flash bulb reaction. Unless that is there is some other weak link like the wiring which would need to be MT250 (1.5 inch diameter) or the source Car battery (Boom).

It can be done using a Step up transformer of say 500VA ($$) and a proper resister 6K Ohm in line after the track rated for the output of the Transformer like an array of several Pringle can sized ones used to regulate the charge rate of large UMGE vehicles. So like 10 grand and an engineer like Allen or!

One of these will work perfectly. http://www.mcmaster....heaters/=fj7dg5

If you don't have a temp controller, they can get very hot if you oversize them, so again use a heat gun and start at the end like I suggested, It works, I've used the method on brand new Deliveries to upgrade the exact system your doing on some very pricey boats.

Actually, you want a step down transformer because you need low voltage and high current and low resistance wire like maybe 10/0 but let's just not go there.

Just follow the voice of experience above, use the heat gun, and don't listen to me on this :-) Just be careful you don't point the heat gun at your deck and do some serious damage.

Allen

[Grind4Beer]

I haven't done the calculations for running a current through the track to heat it, but I suspect you'd be more likely to melt the track where you'd connected leads to it than to get it hot enough to bother the glue. If you can the bolts out of the way, and if the glue layer is thick enough, you might be able to rig a hot-wire cutter, as is often used on foam. Even that seems sort of iffy.

Somewhere, in prowling the web, I've seen grit-coated wire, in spooled lengths of several feet. Local hobby stores stock it cut into 4-5 inch lenghts as refills for jeweler's saws. Dunno if that can work for the situation you've got, but it might be worth looking into. If you can get a loop of it around the end of the track and work towards the footwell, it should cut the glue instead of the track.

G4B

[Rex II]

I did a rough calculation, just an order of magnitude thing. Resistivity of Aluminum is 2.7x10-8ohm-meters. Assume traveler is 1 square inch cross section or 6.5x10-4 square meters. Assume traveler is 2 meters long. Then the resistance is 2.7x10-8 x 2 / 6.5x10-4 or .83x10-4 ohms. Call it 10-4 ohms. If we want to heat it with 100 watts then we need to use the equation for power of P = I^2 x R so the current is sqrt ( P / R) or sqrt ( 10^2 / 10^4) or 1,000 amps. To get 1,000 amps through 10-4 ohms we need 0.1 volts.

I looked at a cheap arch welder and it puts out 200 amps. Using that you could get 4 watts of heating into our hypothetical traveler. That might not be enough and it might be hard on the welder, which might require 220 volts.

The battery could probably deliver more current than the arc welder but it would probably explode or catch fire at these levels. I wouldn't try it.

In summary, use a grinder.

Nice Calculations. Do Not Attempt To heat the track using current!!! If you do it will become the element in a very large flash bulb reaction. Unless that is there is some other weak link like the wiring which would need to be MT250 (1.5 inch diameter) or the source Car battery (Boom).

It can be done using a Step up transformer of say 500VA ($) and a proper resister 6K Ohm in line after the track rated for the output of the Transformer like an array of several Pringle can sized ones used to regulate the charge rate of large UMGE vehicles. So like 10 grand and an engineer like Allen or!

One of these will work perfectly. http://www.mcmaster....heaters/=fj7dg5

If you don't have a temp controller, they can get very hot if you oversize them, so again use a heat gun and start at the end like I suggested, It works, I've used the method on brand new Deliveries to upgrade the exact system your doing on some very pricey boats.

Actually, you want a step down transformer because you need low voltage and high current and low resistance wire like maybe 10/0 but let's just not go there.

Just follow the voice of experience above, use the heat gun, and don't listen to me on this :-) Just be careful you don't point the heat gun at your deck and do some serious damage.

Allen

Allen you are absolutely right that your ratios of voltage current and resistance will work. the trouble is we are trying not to kill the poor fucker doing the work. many combinations of Current voltage and resistance can do the job but you need to design to the Electrical engineering concept of finger safe. you don't want to explode if you touch it in other words.

OSHA Agrees- http://www.osha.gov/...leccurrent.html

My reasoning for the big voltage, and big resistors was to keep the Current low, real low.


The electrical resistance of the human body depends on the condition of your skin at the time of measurement. If your skin is wet, you could have a resistance of only about 1100 Ohms. With dry skin, the amount is much higher at around 495,000 Ohms.

When working with any kind of electricity, you need to make sure you are staying dry as we discovered above. If you get shocked while wet, you are much more likely to feel the jolt, and in some cases this can be the difference between life and death. Now let's discuss the reason that getting shocked could lead to death. Whenever you hear on the news or internet, "Oh wow, he just got shocked by 50,000 volts", how in the world is he still alive? Well here is the answer to this time aged question.

The amount of voltage is not the issue, it's the amount of current (amperage) introduced into the human body that can kill. It only takes about .015 amps across the heart to kill a person.That's it, .015 amps!(See Linky above) So the bottom line is no matter how little the voltage might be, its the current (Amperage) that will kill you. Have fun, BE SAFE, and always respect electricity.

Allen i'm just having fun So I decided to go there.

Cheers happy new year.

[allen]

I did a rough calculation, just an order of magnitude thing. Resistivity of Aluminum is 2.7x10-8ohm-meters. Assume traveler is 1 square inch cross section or 6.5x10-4 square meters. Assume traveler is 2 meters long. Then the resistance is 2.7x10-8 x 2 / 6.5x10-4 or .83x10-4 ohms. Call it 10-4 ohms. If we want to heat it with 100 watts then we need to use the equation for power of P = I^2 x R so the current is sqrt ( P / R) or sqrt ( 10^2 / 10^4) or 1,000 amps. To get 1,000 amps through 10-4 ohms we need 0.1 volts.

I looked at a cheap arch welder and it puts out 200 amps. Using that you could get 4 watts of heating into our hypothetical traveler. That might not be enough and it might be hard on the welder, which might require 220 volts.

The battery could probably deliver more current than the arc welder but it would probably explode or catch fire at these levels. I wouldn't try it.

In summary, use a grinder.

Nice Calculations. Do Not Attempt To heat the track using current!!! If you do it will become the element in a very large flash bulb reaction. Unless that is there is some other weak link like the wiring which would need to be MT250 (1.5 inch diameter) or the source Car battery (Boom).

It can be done using a Step up transformer of say 500VA ($) and a proper resister 6K Ohm in line after the track rated for the output of the Transformer like an array of several Pringle can sized ones used to regulate the charge rate of large UMGE vehicles. So like 10 grand and an engineer like Allen or!

One of these will work perfectly. http://www.mcmaster....heaters/=fj7dg5

If you don't have a temp controller, they can get very hot if you oversize them, so again use a heat gun and start at the end like I suggested, It works, I've used the method on brand new Deliveries to upgrade the exact system your doing on some very pricey boats.

Actually, you want a step down transformer because you need low voltage and high current and low resistance wire like maybe 10/0 but let's just not go there.

Just follow the voice of experience above, use the heat gun, and don't listen to me on this :-) Just be careful you don't point the heat gun at your deck and do some serious damage.

Allen

Allen you are absolutely right that your ratios of voltage current and resistance will work. the trouble is we are trying not to kill the poor fucker doing the work. many combinations of Current voltage and resistance can do the job but you need to design to the Electrical engineering concept of finger safe. you don't want to explode if you touch it in other words.

OSHA Agrees- http://www.osha.gov/...leccurrent.html

My reasoning for the big voltage, and big resistors was to keep the Current low, real low.


The electrical resistance of the human body depends on the condition of your skin at the time of measurement. If your skin is wet, you could have a resistance of only about 1100 Ohms. With dry skin, the amount is much higher at around 495,000 Ohms.

When working with any kind of electricity, you need to make sure you are staying dry as we discovered above. If you get shocked while wet, you are much more likely to feel the jolt, and in some cases this can be the difference between life and death. Now let's discuss the reason that getting shocked could lead to death. Whenever you hear on the news or internet, "Oh wow, he just got shocked by 50,000 volts", how in the world is he still alive? Well here is the answer to this time aged question.

The amount of voltage is not the issue, it's the amount of current (amperage) introduced into the human body that can kill. It only takes about .015 amps across the heart to kill a person.That's it, .015 amps!(See Linky above) So the bottom line is no matter how little the voltage might be, its the current (Amperage) that will kill you. Have fun, BE SAFE, and always respect electricity.

Allen i'm just having fun So I decided to go there.

Cheers happy new year.

OK, as long as we are going there, your example of 500 volts (you said VA but I assume you meant volts) and 6000 ohms is enough to kill someone (.08 amps). So basically you have a good idea but went in the wrong direction. You want to limit the voltage to a very low level. Then it doesn't matter that the step down transformer can source 1000 amps, it cannot put that through the human body because the resistance of the human body will keep the current low. We all know that a 12 volts is safe and 120 volts is not even though the 12 volt starter battery can source hundreds of amps. Keep the voltage low to keep the circuit safe.

I don't really want to hijack the thread with this discussion but as suggesting 500 volts with 6000 ohms could actually kill someone I thought perhaps I should comment. If anyone does want to heat up a strip of metal using current, keep the voltage low and use something that will not blow up to do it. In the case of the traveler, this probably does not exist so the other ideas, a strip heater or a blow dryer heater are superior ideas.

Happy New Year to all.

Allen

[Rex II]

We must both be bored!!!

No Snow and and the boats are put up for the season!!

PS from Wiki

A volt-ampere (VA) is the unit used for the apparent power in an electrical circuit, equal to the product of root-mean-square (RMS) voltage and RMS current.^[1] In direct current (DC) circuits, this product is equal to the real power (active power) ^[2] in watts. Volt-amperes are useful only in the context of alternating current (AC) circuits (sinusoidal voltages and currents of the same frequency).

While both the volt-ampere (abbreviated VA) and the watt have the dimension of power (time rate of energy), they do not have the same meaning. Some devices, includingUninterruptible Power Supplies (UPSs), have ratings both for maximum volt-amperes and maximum watts.

The VA rating is limited by the maximum permissible current, and the watt rating by the power-handling capacity of the device. When a UPS powers equipment which presents a reactive load with a low power factor, neither limit may safely be exceeded.

[haligonian winterr]

Heat gun, turn buckle to an overhead support (sawhorse or similar) while running the guitar wire sounds like the most solid idea.

All mechanical and not likely to blow yourself up with from what I can see.

Best of luck and make sure you report back

HW

[hobie17li]

Would somebody please go remove the mainsheet track before
he gets back and sign the work order love mainsheet track removal
fairy

[allen]

You guys realize he cannot get the guitar wire past the first bolt. If he could get the bolts out this would be easy but they are captured somehow inside the track. Seems odd to me as most things can be disassembled because they were assembled.

[Mastadon]

What about drilling holes into the heads of the bolts and screwing eye bolts into them. You could then heat the area to soften the 5200 and pull the bolts out, perhaps using the sawhorse-hung block method?

[nige]

You guys realize he cannot get the guitar wire past the first bolt. If he could get the bolts out this would be easy but they are captured somehow inside the track. Seems odd to me as most things can be disassembled because they were assembled.

You are obviously correct but the key diff between assembly and dis assembly is half the worlds supply of 5200..... Without that it would be easy.

Looks like this - you can see where the bolt heads go.

http://www.harkenindustrial.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=hi&Product_Code=2721-3-6m

Will see if I can apply pressure to both sides and eat this weekend..... Unless te track fairy came.

When patience runs out I will get destructive.

[JimL]

You guys realize he cannot get the guitar wire past the first bolt. If he could get the bolts out this would be easy but they are captured somehow inside the track. Seems odd to me as most things can be disassembled because they were assembled.

You are obviously correct but the key diff between assembly and dis assembly is half the worlds supply of 5200..... Without that it would be easy.

Looks like this - you can see where the bolt heads go.

http://www.harkenind..._Code=2721-3-6m

Will see if I can apply pressure to both sides and eat this weekend..... Unless te track fairy came.

When patience runs out I will get destructive.

Nige, I am surprised no one has suggested a small amount of semtex .......only if you get destructive......

Yeah OK I'm gone....

Cheers,

Jim

[bammiller]

I still think this is a matter of time, heat and force. If you slowly heat the track, the bolts that are going through the deck will also get hot, and all the 5200 will lose its adhesive qualities at less than the temperature of boiling water. Apply a vertical force of 500 lbs to the top of the tracks and let it sit all day. Eventually the track and connecting bolts will lift off; you just have to be patient.

I would also suggest that you cut off as much of the track that is spanning the cockpit; no sense having more aluminum to heat that necessary.

Bam Miller

[Caca Cabeza]

Was down working on my boat yesterday when I snapped a picture of this:



on a boat a couple of slips down. Seems the guy couldn't get his engine to start, but now it runs like a champ.

Could have just been a coincidence though.

[Christian]

I still think this is a matter of time, heat and force. If you slowly heat the track, the bolts that are going through the deck will also get hot, and all the 5200 will lose its adhesive qualities at less than the temperature of boiling water. Apply a vertical force of 500 lbs to the top of the tracks and let it sit all day. Eventually the track and connecting bolts will lift off; you just have to be patient.

I would also suggest that you cut off as much of the track that is spanning the cockpit; no sense having more aluminum to heat that necessary.

Bam Miller

Yep - constant pressure and time is the key (although heat can be necessary if it is really cold). Same when taking off a keel that has been 5200'ed in place: Take off the keel nuts, remove a bit of the support under the keel (leave a 1-2" gap) - go to lunch, and the keel will 9 times out of 10 be sitting down on the support when you come back.



This is also the reason 5200 is NOT a good adhesive for joints that are under constant stress in one direction

[US 307]

The sliding sideways thing probably won't work. I put the same kind of Harken track on my boat, and it was difficult to slide sideways with no adhesive under it. Also, you can get extra square ss washers from Harken if you ask. I let one fall out of the end over the side and into the water. Was able to find it first try with swimming pool skimmer net. Who says the fixit fairy doesn't exist. My bridge isn't entirely flat, so I made two wedges of Starboard to go under the elevated ends of the track(1/4" tapered to 0 over a 10" span). Works great. I really like the windward sheeting traveler. Read the instructions.

Good luck. Heat, tension, and time will probably prevail.

US 307

[dreaded]

Well?

[DAK]

I still think this is a matter of time, heat and force. If you slowly heat the track, the bolts that are going through the deck will also get hot, and all the 5200 will lose its adhesive qualities at less than the temperature of boiling water. Apply a vertical force of 500 lbs to the top of the tracks and let it sit all day. Eventually the track and connecting bolts will lift off; you just have to be patient.

I would also suggest that you cut off as much of the track that is spanning the cockpit; no sense having more aluminum to heat that necessary.

Bam Miller

I would have guessed the aluminum would be a great conductor to get the heat to exactly where you want it.

[Caca Cabeza]

I regret to report that due to the extensive amount of time that this has been under discussion and not under action, Nige has died of old age.

Services are pending.

[nige]

I regret to report that due to the extensive amount of time that this has been under discussion and not under action, Nige has died of old age.

Services are pending.

Not dead yet but cant argue with all talk no action.

Had to go on the road as soon as I got back, wife is away for a few days so might be able to find time this weekend to get the pressure on...

Sorry to keep everyone waiting on this thrilling drama but fear not, I will update when I have pulled my finger out!

[Occams Razor]

not this weekend - you guys have the fluffy white stuff falling….

[nige]

not this weekend - you guys have the fluffy white stuff falling….

Its meant to just be the wetter variety by the weekend. 6 inches so far this morning though.

[entropy]

We are going to end up with sash weights.

[IanA.]

Maybe if you wait long enough the 5200 will eventually harden, then crack up and fall off. I think the half life of the stuff is only 500 years but thats just a guess.

[Windward]

Fossilized 5200 should be no match for the tension route.

Lets get-er-done!

Snow, pftt....

[dreaded]

not this weekend - you guys have the fluffy white stuff falling….

Its meant to just be the wetter variety by the weekend. 6 inches so far this morning though.

The snow will just keep everything else from melting once it starts heating up..

[JimL]

Can't the semtex solution (see post 81) be revisited?
Cheers,
Jim

[nige]

I am very happy to report that this thread can now die!

I used 4 bottle car jacks and some iron C channel to push the bolts/track up from below. Once the pressure was applied, it only took a few hours for the tack to start popping up. I had to then use a jack and a 3/th bolt to push the bolts past flush with the bottom of the deck.

It did not take any heat.

Now I just need to clean up the residue - will get a can of the stuff recommended earlier.

Thanks for all the suggestions- the track is off with no damage to the boat or track.

[Trevor B]

Congrats, dude.
Ordered any new sails?

[nige]

Congrats, dude.
Ordered any new sails?

Dan came up to measure for a new main last week... a couple of months apparently...

[Rex II]

nice.

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