19 replies to this topic

[Recidivist]

Having spent several boat units on stuff I wanted to do, when the Minister for finance said she would like an electric toilet (no more leaks from the pump handle!) I agreed to install one.

The macerator and pump draws around 18 amps, which is too much to utilise existing wiring in the area. However, the heavy cables for the anchor windlass run through the lockers just nearby, so I thought I'd tap into that source. The problem is that I would not be able to solder a 20A wire onto the heavy cables because I'd never get enough heat onto the job to get solder flowing on the heavy wires. So, I've been wondering if there's some sort of mechanical take-off I could use - mechanically clamp to the heavy cables and either clamp or solder to the lighter wiring. I can cut away the insulation from the heavy cables to attach the "takeoff" and seal the joint with self-amalgamating tape to avoid moisture ingress. Preferably no actual cutting of the heavy cables, just attaching.

Does anyone know of such a device? I've never come across one, but you never know what's out there ...

Thanks

[Moonduster]

Strongly recommend against soldering. First, it makes a brittle connection. Second, it will be very, very difficult to make a soldered splice into heavy cables without compromising the insulation for several hundred mm in each direction.

Instead, chop the cables and crimp on proper lugs. Then join all three with a single bolt, preferably on a post that is mounted to something substantial. Finally deal with insulating the posts so you don't get shorts.

Depending on the distance from your battery, it might be simpler and less expensive to just run a piece of duplex. Similarly, if you're not too far from the windless, you could run the duplex from the windlass back towards to the head.

Good luck!

[Recidivist]

Similarly, if you're not too far from the windless, you could run the duplex from the windlass back towards to the head.

Good luck!

That's what I like about this place - someone usually comes up with something you didn't think of! This is a likely solution, thanks!

[Moonduster]

Yeah - only problem is that there's certainly some sick joke in there about taking a shit while raising the anchor ...

[GybeSet®]

that mud on the anchor looks awful sticky

[Cavelamb]

Strongly recommend against soldering. First, it makes a brittle connection. Second, it will be very, very difficult to make a soldered splice into heavy cables without compromising the insulation for several hundred mm in each direction.

Instead, chop the cables and crimp on proper lugs. Then join all three with a single bolt, preferably on a post that is mounted to something substantial. Finally deal with insulating the posts so you don't get shorts.

Depending on the distance from your battery, it might be simpler and less expensive to just run a piece of duplex. Similarly, if you're not too far from the windless, you could run the duplex from the windlass back towards to the head.

Good luck!

Third, any circuit protection for the windless (fuse/breaker) will be way to big to protect the smaller wiring.
That would create real fire hazard.

So the new wiring has to have protection of it's own.

[SailAR]

Strongly recommend against soldering. First, it makes a brittle connection. Second, it will be very, very difficult to make a soldered splice into heavy cables without compromising the insulation for several hundred mm in each direction.

Instead, chop the cables and crimp on proper lugs. Then join all three with a single bolt, preferably on a post that is mounted to something substantial. Finally deal with insulating the posts so you don't get shorts.

Depending on the distance from your battery, it might be simpler and less expensive to just run a piece of duplex. Similarly, if you're not too far from the windless, you could run the duplex from the windlass back towards to the head.

Good luck!

Third, any circuit protection for the windless (fuse/breaker) will be way to big to protect the smaller wiring.
That would create real fire hazard.

So the new wiring has to have protection of it's own.

Fourth, I hope your windlass controls are pretty well secured so can't be accidentally operated, otherwise you might just want to run new wire and leave the windlass alone.

[sail1403]

that mud on the anchor looks awful sticky

Is that corn I see???

(I'm really sorry for this, it's been a long week)

[floating dutchman]

line tap : http://www.meetindus...ors_Linetap.htm

But I'd rather just run wires back to the breaker pannel and do it properly.

[Recidivist]

If I run wiring to the main anel, I'll only have to dodgy onto an existing circuit anyway. The wiring for the windlass is very well protected and the head wiring will be searately fused as well. The only issue is that the windlass breaker will need to be activated for the head to work, buy that won't create any issues.

Thanks for the feedback. Oh, and the sticky brown stuff on the anchor is mud.

[Fat Point Jack]

I looked but could not finish the search for you, but there are cable taps for hi power car stereo power amplfiers. Search the car stereo sites. But I would be leary of screwing into a power cable on a boat.

[lake Pee]

Having spent several boat units on stuff I wanted to do, when the Minister for finance said she would like an electric toilet (no more leaks from the pump handle!) I agreed to install one.

The macerator and pump draws around 18 amps, which is too much to utilise existing wiring in the area. However, the heavy cables for the anchor windlass run through the lockers just nearby, so I thought I'd tap into that source. The problem is that I would not be able to solder a 20A wire onto the heavy cables because I'd never get enough heat onto the job to get solder flowing on the heavy wires. So, I've been wondering if there's some sort of mechanical take-off I could use - mechanically clamp to the heavy cables and either clamp or solder to the lighter wiring. I can cut away the insulation from the heavy cables to attach the "takeoff" and seal the joint with self-amalgamating tape to avoid moisture ingress. Preferably no actual cutting of the heavy cables, just attaching.

Does anyone know of such a device? I've never come across one, but you never know what's out there ...

Thanks

http://electrical.ha...connectors.aspx


Copper Split Bolt Connector...

[Ishmael]

Having spent several boat units on stuff I wanted to do, when the Minister for finance said she would like an electric toilet (no more leaks from the pump handle!) I agreed to install one.

The macerator and pump draws around 18 amps, which is too much to utilise existing wiring in the area. However, the heavy cables for the anchor windlass run through the lockers just nearby, so I thought I'd tap into that source. The problem is that I would not be able to solder a 20A wire onto the heavy cables because I'd never get enough heat onto the job to get solder flowing on the heavy wires. So, I've been wondering if there's some sort of mechanical take-off I could use - mechanically clamp to the heavy cables and either clamp or solder to the lighter wiring. I can cut away the insulation from the heavy cables to attach the "takeoff" and seal the joint with self-amalgamating tape to avoid moisture ingress. Preferably no actual cutting of the heavy cables, just attaching.

Does anyone know of such a device? I've never come across one, but you never know what's out there ...

Thanks

http://electrical.ha...connectors.aspx


Copper Split Bolt Connector...

In two years in salt water environment...Verdigris Split Bolt Connector. I'm with Moonduster and the bolt/lugs.

[xyzzy]

Split bolt connector seems like a good way to unseal your nicely sealed cable. Try this:


And of course the hot wire will need to go straight to a fuse unless you size it based on your windlass breaker.

[Mr. Fixit's brother,, Mr. Fixit]

If there is room in or near the head area, you could mount a small 12v battery. Use lower guage DC wiring and bring up some wire from your charging system to keep it topped off.

[jerryj2me]

make sure you have an in-line fuse near the point where you tap off the windlass power.

that fuse protects the circuit and also the wires in the circuits. If you put the fuse near the head then a wiring short can still take the full amperage of the windlass power and melt the lines.

scale the wires down is where you put the lower amperage fuse in.

[SailAR]

I really don't like the idea of having to leave the windlass breaker on for the head to be used... too many bad things can happen, because it will be left on... Really, just run the wire from the breaker panel.

[Moonduster]

On rethinking this some, I'd recommend running a positive feed from a dedicated breaker at the panel. However, your return could run forward to the windlass return. A pretty good compromise in terms of safety and cost.

[floating dutchman]

On rethinking this some, I'd recommend running a positive feed from a dedicated breaker at the panel. However, your return could run forward to the windlass return. A pretty good compromise in terms of safety and cost.

That's just a half-assed way of doing a half-assed job.

[Moonduster]

What's half assed about it, Dutch?