10 replies to this topic

[_dinsdale_]

2? problems.
1) My quadrant stop is "working" the deck each time the wheel goes to full lock and the quadrant hits the stop.

See pic below and notice the cracking/chipping gel coat around the top plate which bolts directly through the deck to another plate below which holds the stop. The deck is approx 5mm thick.



Next pic is the quadrant with the stop behind it. Part of the solution I think is to reinforce the deck from below by glassing in some marine ply between the plate holding the stop and the deck above.


But what to do about the damage to the deck above which has that dimpled finish on it? Maybe make a thin teak plate to go under (and wider than) the ss plate, further reinforcing the deck but also covering the damage? This is something I can do myself whereas gelcoat repair of this kind is a pro's job (at least for me).

2) I discovered that the quadrant stop has been welded off to one side and certainly the wheel turns slightly further to port than starboard. Should I be concerned about this?


As ever appreciate any suggestions or observations.

Attached Files

•  quadrant stop above deck.jpg   101.59K   37 downloads
•  quadrant and stop.jpg   46.17K   52 downloads
•  quadrant stop above deck CU.jpg   84.2K   53 downloads
•  quadrant stop.jpg   114.13K   38 downloads

[Moonduster]

It would help if there was a photo of your cockpit that was wider angle to give some context to all the other photos. Is that raised bit with the cross-hatch pattern a removeable part of the cockpit sole? Is the opened hole an inspection port or is that for your emergency tiller?

I'd suggest replacing that entire stop mechanism with simpler vertical post that runs between an upper and lower pair of gussets that are glassed to the inside of the hull and the bottom of the cockpit sole. The gussets should run athwartship and be relatively long - 300mm or more. By securing the post that is the stop at the top and bottom, you'll stop the deflection that is causing the crazing.

When you remove the existing stainless, you can cover the existing holes and crazing with a bit of teak or a fancy stainless plate. It's all cosmetic, so it doesn't matter which.

Good luck!

[_dinsdale_]

Thanks Moonduster. Will look at your suggestion next time I go out to the boat.
As you suspect the port is the emergency tiller but the rest of this section is not removeable. Please find the best photo I have of the area. All the photos I originally posted are looking TOWARDS aft, whilst this new wider shot is obviously not.

Attached Files

•  aft with highlight.jpg   301.26K   37 downloads

[bruno]

stop stanchion bases already have welded gusset angles, therefore suspect deck is too flexible, epoxy on plywood plate larger than subject area would probably do the job.

[_dinsdale_]

Thanks Bruno, Will do the reinforcing below deck, but any suggestions about the topside?

[bruno]

Your thought to put wood under deck backing plate=> get some marine ply, epoxy seal, bond with thickened epoxy to deck, remount hardware, paint or varnish epoxy. Watch out for change in below deck clearances.

[WarBird]

With all the work you are looking at, it seem to me (amatuer) that you would do better to have a stainless backing plate cut that ties both stops together. 1/8 or 3/16ths? Some weight? yes! When the boat backs down and the wheel gets free, the quadrant is hitting those stops pretty hard and the spinning wheel is adding energy (big flywheel) into the impact. Rubber snubbers on each stop would help too! Tie-ing the stops together will spread the load over more than double the perimeter. A heavy plate with cut out for the shaft will lock it all together.

[_dinsdale_]

Watch out for change in below deck clearances.

Should be OK but will be aware thanks.

Rubber snubbers on each stop would help too! Tie-ing the stops together will spread the load over more than double the perimeter. A heavy plate with cut out for the shaft will lock it all together.

Sorry not sure I follow this.

[Soñadora]

I think warbird is thinking there are two stops. There is only one. We have two stops on Soñadora built into stringers. Was looking at them the other day and they're pretty banged up but functional. I would second Moon's suggestion to build gussets. Seems pretty silly it wasn't built that way to begin with.

[WarBird]

I think warbird is thinking there are two stops. There is only one. We have two stops on Soñadora built into stringers. Was looking at them the other day and they're pretty banged up but functional. I would second Moon's suggestion to build gussets. Seems pretty silly it wasn't built that way to begin with.

WarBird did think two stops, sorry. Make the base of the ONE stop as big as the space will allow.

[equivocator]

The quadrant stops should not come into play, so unless you are letting go of the wheel when you are backing down, the deck distortion may be the result of excess loads on the top bearing. Either way, it might be a good idea to reinforce the deck in the way of the top bearing. G-10, bolted and bonded with thickened epoxy, would be ideal for this. Plywood would also be OK, but vulnerable to rot over time. Do not let the wheel or tiller 'free wheel' to the stop when you back down, it puts unnecessary stress on the entire steering system, which is a critical component of your boat.