208 replies to this topic

[Shibby]

Wow, I didn't realize people did that sort of thing! I'm happy to verify (but sorry, floating dutchman, the clothes are staying on ).

So, here's me on my J-30 from today. As you can see, she's currently named Chanson, with a hailing port of Seattle, Washington. The guy I bought it from liked the attention he got from having Seattle on a boat here in SF. I'll be changing that, and the name as well (yeah, I know...).

I don't think I'll be doing much racing, at least for a year or two while I get some experience. My main interest is day sailing and weekend overnight trips to local destinations - Angel Island, Sausalito, etc.

As for her seaworthiness, currently her engine needs a little attention, and I have things like new lifelines, etc that I want to get done before I'll feel comfortable taking her out, especially with anyone else aboard.

I was gonna say that boat looks wet...

[Anomaly2]

s.s. would be shinier. Maybe a little deerskin anti chafe around the back of the neck.
Maybe a nice big carbon horseshoe for formal occasions.

Ahem!....... (do I have to call KD to find out whether you've been working on your assignment? No, the above does not count as a contribution towards "freshening" this thread....)

[Shibby]

Are you related to the Drunk Kitchen girl on youtube???

Learn him about boat bucks and pirates...

[alx]

You guys make reading this thread on the bus or at work very interesting indeed.

[Beer Fueled Mayhem]

Here's a J/30.



And just to freshen up the thread a bit:

Good old Pronto. Owned by Tom and Marilyn. Tom had the best quote I've ever heard after doing poorly in a race, "I blame myself. I thought you guys were better than that." Classic!

[boomer]

I never found body piercings to be attractive, to tell the truth I'm repulsed by them....but to each his or her own.

[mad]

Gee whizz, I could have saved her the cost of those piercings. I would have done them with my teeth for free.
I just can't understand the wisdom of spoiling a perfectly good nipple by putting a hole through it.
Did she think they needed improving?
Why didn't she talk to me?

Oh well, when she gets old she can hang her pants up on bungies to her nipples.

Thanks Bob, I'm sitting in a hotel bar at a conference and everybodies wondering why this guy just choked on his beer.

Edit
And you other guys are not helping either with the mental image that's forming.

[Soñadora]

J/30 Pronto is now called Screamin 'O owned by Scott Brue. A classic J/30 picture if there ever was one.....

hold the PHONE! That's Scott and Kate's boat??? I know it very well (Kate used to work for me at my sign shop - and we did the graphics). Didn't know the history though. That's pretty awesome. Anyone know the source of that photo? Know of any high resolution versions? That would make a great poster.

[slap]

Yet another CA thread running off the rails.....

[Soñadora]

most tits get blocked by the tit blocker on our firewall at work.

[Beer Fueled Mayhem]

J/30 Pronto is now called Screamin 'O owned by Scott Brue. A classic J/30 picture if there ever was one.....

hold the PHONE! That's Scott and Kate's boat??? I know it very well (Kate used to work for me at my sign shop - and we did the graphics). Didn't know the history though. That's pretty awesome. Anyone know the source of that photo? Know of any high resolution versions? That would make a great poster.

Coming back from the Tri State race in the early 90's I believe. They were leaving Michigan City Ind. Tom and Marilyn were both teachers and HAD to be back. NE wind blowing and that fetch of Lake Michigan can be a bitch. You can see the breakwall just beyond in the photo. I think couple of the crew got banged up but no real damage. "Latest Trick" was following (Olsen 30 I think) them and they had their MOB stuff dangling in the water after the wave hit. Once they got out of the breakwater area it was a beam reach to Jackson Park Harbor in Chicago. Sailing magazine has the before and after of Pronto and Latest Trick. I have it somewhere. I'll look it up.

[4knotSB]

When she gets older , we'll all be dead anyway. The joke is on us.

[crash]

bit of 7 by 19 s.s., snap shackle on each end, around the neck, clipped on? Damn good idea Elegua. That'll keep those puppies perky.

Gotta be dynaform Bob, 7 x 19 will get caught up in the hairs on the back of her neck, which would really hurt.

Edit: The deerskin is a really good idea though...

[Bob Perry]

What rails?

[Tom Ray]

What rails?

Is that what those were?

I stuck them in the attic.

[crash]

Tom, I think he meant a rail running through both nips, with a single point hoist system to replace the two point lift system current being discussed....

[alx]

I really think straps in addition to nails would be necessary. Otherwise there's just too much force over too small an area.

And to lay some new rails for this thread...

I'm considering the addition of an easy jack system to use with the new main. I don't like the idea or the look of them while the sail is up, though. So I'm looking at the retractable "EZ-JAX" system - has anyone tried this or has experience with it to weigh in?

[jackdaw]

Alx,

We have harken lazy jacks on Kestrel. A total boon when cruising. As they are permanently attached to the boom and mast, they are not readily removed. But if your lines a long enough (do NOT cut them) you can slack them and them pull them forward and down to the gooseneck where they are out of the way. We do that when racing.

The ex-jax system looks interesting. I suppose the value is the easier retraction. On the harken system it is not something you want to do every day.

[WHK]

Alx,

There is info on the J/30 website for the Lazy Jack system and what works. Register for free on the J/30 class forum and post your Lazy Jack question there and you'll get responses from people who have installed Lazy Jacks or similar systems. Have you run into other J/30s in the SF Bay area?

[alx]

Alx,

There is info on the J/30 website for the Lazy Jack system and what works. Register for free on the J/30 class forum and post your Lazy Jack question there and you'll get responses from people who have installed Lazy Jacks or similar systems. Have you run into other J/30s in the SF Bay area?

I have not. I've been reluctant to ask questions in a J/30 specific manner because my understanding is that most J/30s are raced, and I'm setting mine up purely for cruising.

[WHK]

Alx,

Not true. There are many that cruise only. You'll get some good pointers on how to setup your boat for cruising. I cruise, do one design and PHRF racing. There are plenty who just cruise. Go to the J/30 forum and feel the love! I know the guy real well who will approve your forum account

[boomer]

I agree with WHK...The wealth of shared knowledge available on the J-30 website would be the best resource for anything J-30.

[WHK]

Alx - check your email / spam folder. You have to click on the link you should have received from the J/30 forum to activate your account. Make sure all mail from @j30.us is set to go to your inbox.

[alx]

So I took delivery of my new main last night. My wallet hurts, but I'm looking forward to installing it. How hard can it be to do by myself?

The Strong Track system looks really cool, too. I'm glad I went that route. I'll probably end up ordering the EZ-JAX system too (retractable lazyjacks).

All in all, I'm starting to get excited. My engine runs (though I don't trust it quite yet) and I'm going to have an easy-to-manage mainsail. Next I just need to replace the hunk o' rust that is the anchor I inherited, and I'll feel comfortable leaving the slip (at long last!) Of course, it's December now, so I'm not sure I'll *want* to..

I need to get hauled out and have the bottom done, the furler installed, and the instruments installed, too. Oh, and at some point I need to have the old name sanded off/painted over and the new name painted on

[Tom Ray]

I remember freezing my ass of in San Fran one August. Are you saying it actually gets even colder?

[Salazar]

and because I'm too lazy to reread the whole thread, what is the new name going to be?

[alx]

"Ananda"

One of the beloved authors from my childhood reading, Madeleine L'engle, described it as meaning "that joy in existence without which the universe would fall apart and collapse."

[WHK]

Alx - There are a few J/30s with alternate main sail track systems. On the J/30 forum you can post and ask about setup. Vee Jay (Hulls 505 and 526) uses the Tides Marine track. Is your new main with full length battens? If so, you need to be careful with twisting and making it difficult because the slides may twist on the track. There are batten car systems that eliminate the batten twist problem.

I'd try the main without lazy jacks first. I singlehand my boat and am able to flake my main on the boom without problem. I don't have any special track system, but use slugs for my everyday sail. My One Design race main uses a bolt rope, not recommended unless you plan on racing and have the crew available to roll it. It will save you the expense so you can use the $ for other things. If you don't have one, I'd suggest investing an a good autohelm system if you plan on sailing short handed. I have a Raymarine X5 Tiller Pilto with the remote. It works great. Look on my website at this link, then click "the boat" on the menu. You see links for some equipment installed, including the Raymarine X5 (now the SPX-5 with a different display head).

For an anchor, consider the Fortress FX-16 aluminum. It's lighter than the same sized zinc covered steel, but has excellent holding power.

[alx]

WHK,

Thanks for the advice! The Tides system looks very similar to the Strong Track system which I'll be installing. I've never heard of the twisting problem but I'll be careful of it - yes, my main is full battened.

I probably will sail a few times without the lazy jacks first. I do like the idea of being able to just let go of the halyard and drop the sail in a hurry without it spilling all over the deck, and then make it pretty back at the dock.

As for the autohelm, I do have a Raymarine ST-2000, rated to 10,000 lbs of displacement. I did have concerns that it would be able to handle the conditions in the slot on San Francisco Bay, but that's at least 1,600 lbs over my displacement even fully loaded with a full crew. Do you think the 2000 would be inadequate? I can certainly sell it and upgrade to the X5 if I need to.

Thanks for the anchor recommendation - I'll definitely take a look at them.

One of the more daunting parts of this project has been sorting, researching, and validating all the little pieces of often conflicting advice that everyone has given me. I really appreciate it though - I'm learning so much every day. And very, very slowly, I'm beginning to feel like I know a little bit about what I'm talking about.

[WHK]

Many have found the ST2000 to be underpowered for the J/30 unless the sails are very well balanced. I have an ST1000+ that is my backup if the X5 fails when I go cruising. There is absolutely no comparison. I bought the X5 because the ST1000+ was so underpowered. The X5 has a compass that senses roll and pitch. The X5 also has a computer that integrates this information with the boat dynamic response to optimize autohelm movement. The boat dynamics are "learned" as part of the sea trial calibration procedure after installation. Even though the X5 is more powerful, it uses less power because there is less tiller motion to turn and correct for changes. When sailing with a spinnaker off the wind in following seas, the autohelm steers a straighter course over time than I can. It doesn't fatigue!

I have a fully integrated system with my TackTick, Garmin GPS and backup Lowrance GPS. These all connect using the TackTick NMEA interface. I also have the Autohelm S100 remote. I can use the remote and have the X5 steer by compass, have the GPS drive the autohelm, or sail by relative wind angle. All these are great when cruising, or single handed racing / sailing.

You can see the schematic on how I networked all this stuff at this link. - once there you'll see a link for the schematics.

[alx]

WHK,

My fears confirmed!

Alright. I'll probably install the ST-2000 and see if I can get by with it. I really only need something to use when my attention and hands will be away from the tiller for various reasons (reefing, rolling up the jib, etc), as well as just generally being able to enjoy being on the boat with friends instead of working hard all day. After I get a handle on the cost of everything else, I'll see if I can justify installing the X5 with a p70 autopilot head (to compliment the i70 instrument display I already have ready to install). The ST-2000 will be handy as a backup in that case, I think.

Thanks for the schematics! I come from a tech background... I work as a software engineer for a major company, and I've been working with computers, networks, and protocols since I was 8 years old - and all of the various marine networks and protocols just seem totally arcane to me, so it's really useful to see a known-good example to validate my own understanding.

[Tucky]

One of the more daunting parts of this project has been sorting, researching, and validating all the little pieces of often conflicting advice that everyone has given me. I really appreciate it though - I'm learning so much every day. And very, very slowly, I'm beginning to feel like I know a little bit about what I'm talking about.

As good a description of gaining experience as I've seen- you'll do fine. And take everything slow until you start sailing- the boat will really tell you what works and what doesn't better than most people .

[alx]

One of the more daunting parts of this project has been sorting, researching, and validating all the little pieces of often conflicting advice that everyone has given me. I really appreciate it though - I'm learning so much every day. And very, very slowly, I'm beginning to feel like I know a little bit about what I'm talking about.

As good a description of gaining experience as I've seen- you'll do fine. And take everything slow until you start sailing- the boat will really tell you what works and what doesn't better than most people <_</> .

I really look forward to actually trying things out.

One major decision I've been postponing until I actually sail her a bit is how to set up reefing. Right now the two reefing lines run internally the length of the boom, but aren't led back to the cockpit. I'm not sure if I want to keep this configuration, or try to go to single-line reefing, or something else. I'd like the ability to reef-unreef without having to go forward and manually put the tack of the sail on the tackhorn, but that's more of a luxury.

There's also a problem with one of my reefing cleats (it doesn't work... swings too freely and too much tension to push it where it needs to be). I'll either have to figure out what's wrong and fix it or just replace it (or remove it if I lead the lines aft).

Any advice? Some additional points:

* I will probably spend a lot of time reefed, as San Francisco Bay has some pretty heavy air.
* It would be nice if it were convenient to put in a reef before raising the sail.

[Great Red Shark]

Yes, I can offer a little advice here. *

Leave it be for now. The simplest reefing system (the stock arrangement) works fine and will teach you how / when to shorten sail adequately - the mast isn't THAT far away, afterall. And the more complex any system - the more turns it makes, parts it has - the draggy-er it will be. Fix the stoppers (probably just gummed with corrosion from non-use) and use them before changing anything.

Keep. Things. Simple.

ESPECIALLY at this point in your sailing adventure. There will be lots of time to complicate systems later. Concentrate on the things you need to get safely underway, and then GO SAILING. If you need to reef you'll likely toss them in on hoisting and leave them set for awhile - it's not like passage-making where you tuck them in and shake them out for every squall - and even those guys often have the most basic systems (halyards on the mast, reefing gear forward) because it's the easiest way to do things on some boats.

One thing about cockpit-led everything is that it makes for longer, stretchier runs and induced drag into the systems CAN impart a lot more humbug than old-school solutions - not everything old is that way because they didn't have miracle gizmos, sometimes its actually pretty refined.

Lastly, I've sailed some J/30s - you have a good design there, don't try to 'improve' it too much just yet - fix the stuff that needs it and let it teach you what it will, if you just listen to it and acquire the 'sense' for what a balanced sailplan feels like.


* Qualifications: I've sailed for about 30 years, have owned several boats and sail in a windy place.

[oregonarchist]

+1 on simple.

I like a fixed tack point for reefing -- anything you can do to help with sail shape is a good thing.

As far as going forward to reef, I have found that I always end up working the length of the boom anyway to tidy up the reefed part of the main, so as long as you're up and about anyway, like GRS said, keep everything simple.

[alx]

What you guys are saying makes a lot of sense. There's also an aesthetical consideration, I think. Sailing would be a lot less fun if all you did was sit in the cockpit, adjust the autopilot, and tug on different lines from time to time

[floating dutchman]

Just a quick comment about not trusting your engine, I was brought up to belive that an engine can never be trusted, It WILL die on your just when you don't want it to.
If you never fully trust your engine you will live longer.

Seamanship as I was tought.

Still, having the engine right is inportant, possably not as inportant as not trusting any engine with your life.
I just don't understand hellecopters.

[Tom Ray]

Helicopters can "autorotate" in the event of engine failure. Basically, this means get the blade spinning really fast at low pitch as you plummet to earth, then increase the pitch and use the momentum of the blade as the power source to make a soft landing.

A former employer of mine was an FAA designated examiner (the lady who gave you the check ride that gets you your license) in airplanes, gliders and helicopters and had some hair raising stories about helicopters. And every other kind of aircraft.

[alx]

+1 to never fully trusting an engine. That's why I don't plan on leaving the dock until 1) I have a mainsail ready to go that I can handle myself, and 2) I have an anchor ready to drop in case I need to float for a while to wait for a tow.

Helicopters can "autorotate" in the event of engine failure. Basically, this means get the blade spinning really fast at low pitch as you plummet to earth, then increase the pitch and use the momentum of the blade as the power source to make a soft landing.

A former employer of mine was an FAA designated examiner (the lady who gave you the check ride that gets you your license) in airplanes, gliders and helicopters and had some hair raising stories about helicopters. And every other kind of aircraft.

There is a relationship between airspeed and altitude in a helicopter that determines whether an autorotation landing is possible. Pilots call this the "dead man's curve", as an engine loss on the wrong side of this curve is pretty much fatal. This includes any sort of hovering below 800 feet, though, so news, police, military helicopters almost always end up flying in this unsafe region.

This is also why helicopters use the runway to take off at airports, which can look kind of silly. They're gathering airspeed before they increase altitude, to stay on the right side of the curve.

[steele]

I agree about not trusting the motor. I am the guy who always has one sail ready to go, even just motoring to the gas dock. The fenders stay out, on both sides of the boat, until I am well clear of the marina. I know having my big Bruce anchor on the roller all the time hurts performance, so what. I am often surprised how much other boaters trust their motors, the point of getting really close to the breakwater in an onshore blow or skirting shallow water, situations where if there is a failure there is no room for plan B.

In regards to the discusion of reefing, having a way to raise the main into the reef is a nice way to go, we often do this if the conditions are borderline. It always seems easier to shake out a reef you do not need than to set one when it gets snotty.

[kimbottles]

SWMBO and I like practicing anchoring under sail, docking under sail, etc. There have been several times where those skills have come in handy. We once sailed into the customs dock in Roche Harbor when our engine decided not to run any longer. And we once sailed from anchor in the San Juan Islands to our then slip in Everett when we had an engine failure. It is rather comforting to know you can just sail somewhere if necessary.

I heard of a story where an unexpected storm hit Cabo and the only boat that got off the lee shore was some single hander on a Cal 40 who sailed off the anchor and out to the relative safety of the open ocean while others were trying to unsuccessfully motor out of danger. Don't know if that story is true, but I like the theory.

We are always ready to sail and always ready to anchor. Lots of security wrapped up in those skills.

[Elegua]

+1 to never fully trusting an engine. That's why I don't plan on leaving the dock until 1) I have a mainsail ready to go that I can handle myself, and 2) I have an anchor ready to drop in case I need to float for a while to wait for a tow.

Helicopters can "autorotate" in the event of engine failure. Basically, this means get the blade spinning really fast at low pitch as you plummet to earth, then increase the pitch and use the momentum of the blade as the power source to make a soft landing.

A former employer of mine was an FAA designated examiner (the lady who gave you the check ride that gets you your license) in airplanes, gliders and helicopters and had some hair raising stories about helicopters. And every other kind of aircraft.

There is a relationship between airspeed and altitude in a helicopter that determines whether an autorotation landing is possible. Pilots call this the "dead man's curve", as an engine loss on the wrong side of this curve is pretty much fatal. This includes any sort of hovering below 800 feet, though, so news, police, military helicopters almost always end up flying in this unsafe region.

This is also why helicopters use the runway to take off at airports, which can look kind of silly. They're gathering airspeed before they increase altitude, to stay on the right side of the curve.

Not trusting your engine is a sensible approach. I find it helpful to think of your boat the same way: change airspeed for boatspeed and altitude for windward room. It can suck to be out of boatspeed, windward room and options.

[Tom Ray]

Not trusting your engine is a sensible approach. I find it helpful to think of your boat the same way: change airspeed for boatspeed and altitude for windward room. It can suck to be out of boatspeed, windward room and options.

I have lost the engine with sails down and very little room separating us from rocks, but was not quite out of options. Down went the anchor, which fortunately caught quickly and held.

[Beau.Vrolyk]

Guys,

Really, if one couldn't trust a well build and installed engine then almost every single fishing boat I know of would be in deep brown sticky stuff.

Come on. I sail my boat in and out of the slip, on and off of anchor and all sorts of other places. But that isn't because the engine is unreliable. It's because I like to sail and I have a sail boat.

If the engine is unreliable then you need another engine. In an era when even a lowly subcompact can run for 100,000 miles without a rebuild it's really inexcusable to have a boat with a motor you don't trust. Especially if you think of it as "safety" equipment. (Which I don't.)

BV

[Tom Ray]

A reliable engine will reliably shut down if a helpful person who has changed the fuel filters fails to turn the fuel back on, and such a failure could happen at a very inconvenient moment.

Sincerely,
The Voice of (a rather unsettling) Experience

[Beau.Vrolyk]

A reliable engine will reliably shut down if a helpful person who has changed the fuel filters fails to turn the fuel back on, and such a failure could happen at a very inconvenient moment.

Sincerely,
The Voice of (a rather unsettling) Experience

OK, Tom, I'll buy that. Same thing happens with a car if you don't put enough gas in it etc... My favorite trick is to forget the sea cock and then the over-temp alarm goes off. I sail with the sea-cocks all closed. I now hang the key to the motor on the sea-cock handle. For the same reason that when I used to have a bike rack that was on the roof of my car I'd put the garage door opener in the trunk, too much busted stuff.

[Elegua]

OK, not to over egg it....I said it is sensible and helpful, not a life changing event.

It's saved me a lot of hassle when things have not gone my way to have conserved a bit of excess sea room or headway - like the time when my freshly rebuilt engine decided not to start after working like a champ for an entire 3 week cruise just as I was returning home and reaching the head of a narrow river with a 2+kt adverse tide, a 90 degree turn, and lots of very expensive yachts alongside - we had one chance at that mooring

....anyway I wasn't worried about my SB, just that rich white guy's 100' Swan.

[WHK]

Back to the topic main and reefing.....
You'll find many J/30 owners have mounted Harken 150 cam cleats on the mast, about a foot below the plate where the halyard exits the mast. The cleats are offset by the width of the cam so when the halyard is under tension it runs straight to the turning block at the base of the mast without going through the cleat. However, when raising the sails, the halyard is jumped at the mast, and set in the cam cleat. You then pull the slack out of the halyard back at the normal cabin top position through the rope clutches. Then pull the halyard away from the mast out of the cam cleat so you can do the final halyard tension on the winch and rope clutch. I also leave the reefing line always run through the reef point on the leech. I have a loose footed main so the line is tied in a loop with a bowline around the boom, runs on stbd side of main up through the aft reefing grommet, down the port side through the sheave at the end of the boom, inside the mast forward, exits through the turning block and cam lever in the forward casting on the boom. When the sail is stowed, I do not pul the slack out of the reef line but instead take up the excess and push it under the aft sail tie so it stows neatly under the sail cover.

Using this method you have all the items needed for reefing at your fingertips by the mast. Let me tell you it really needs to be honkin out there if you have to go to the 2nd reef point on a J/30. My main is setup with only a single set of grommets at the 1st reef point. To reef with this configuration here are the steps, assuming your boat is headed into the wind. If the main is already up, drop the halyard so the reef point by the luff is about a foot below the reefing hook on the boom, if not up, don't raise the main yet.
1. Pull the reefing line at the front of the mast and lock the cam so that the clew is now the reef point tight to the boom.
2. Tie a sail tie through the aft reef point grommet around the boom. I usually wrap it twice around. I found without this, the reefing line chafes at the grommet. You want the sail tie taking the load from leech tension, not the reefing line. The reefing line merely puts the aft tension along the boom.
3. At the mast, jump the main halyard and for the last foot, loop the forward reefing cringle on the hook on the boom. If you have the Harken 150, you can use one hand on the halyard, and the other on the reefing cringle, lock the halyard in place in the harken 150, then take the slack out of the halyard aft by the rope clutch.
4. Once the slack is out and the rope clutch is locked, pull the halyard out of the Harken 150
5. Tension the halyard on the winch - lots of tension is needed here
6. Tension the reefing line as tight as you can get it, lock the cam lever and tie off the line to the cleat on the boom.
7. If I'm doing a delivery of long distance, I'll put sail ties through the reef point grommets and tie off the excess sail to the boom so it looks neater. If it's only a short time, I don't worry about the extra sail bunched at the boom.

Here is my boat racing in the Leukemia Cup last year with winds up to 35 and gusty. Reefed main and #3 Jib (110%) with an experienced crew on the boat for the race.


A much more leisurely 100 mile delivery back from the 2009 NAs with wind blowing 25, reefed main and #3 genoa with me and 3 friends. The friends are all sailors, but were just learning and wanted to get some experience on a long trip. - That speed shown is through the water. We were almost 2 kts faster over ground with the tidal current on Long Island Sound.

[Ravac]

+1 to never fully trusting an engine. That's why I don't plan on leaving the dock until 1) I have a mainsail ready to go that I can handle myself, and 2) I have an anchor ready to drop in case I need to float for a while to wait for a tow.

Good plan on never fully trusting the engine and having the anchor set to go.

This year as we motored on down the river to our mooring spot after launch, our OB died right after I turned upriver to approach the ball, and I couldn't get it started again quickly. We were lucky that the tide had just started to come in so the river current was nearly slack. We drifted only 100 feet or so in the time it took me to retrieve the anchor from below and secure it to the rode. We we never in any danger, but it does get the heart pumping a bit when you aren't 100% prepared for trouble. Chalk one up to live & learn. Anchor will be ready to go when we launch next year.

[alx]

+1 to never fully trusting an engine. That's why I don't plan on leaving the dock until 1) I have a mainsail ready to go that I can handle myself, and 2) I have an anchor ready to drop in case I need to float for a while to wait for a tow.

Good plan on never fully trusting the engine and having the anchor set to go.

This year as we motored on down the river to our mooring spot after launch, our OB died right after I turned upriver to approach the ball, and I couldn't get it started again quickly. We were lucky that the tide had just started to come in so the river current was nearly slack. We drifted only 100 feet or so in the time it took me to retrieve the anchor from below and secure it to the rode. We we never in any danger, but it does get the heart pumping a bit when you aren't 100% prepared for trouble. Chalk one up to live & learn. Anchor will be ready to go when we launch next year.

Nice. Yeah, I'm lucky in that respect. The J/30 has an anchor locker on deck, that holds the anchor and chain. I keep my 200ft of nylon rode in the cockpit locker. It takes me about 45 seconds to pull the rode, connect it to the anchor, and be ready to drop the thing if I need to. If I'm doing something in close quarters, I expect I'll rig it and leave it on deck, just in case.

[WHK]

+1 to never fully trusting an engine. That's why I don't plan on leaving the dock until 1) I have a mainsail ready to go that I can handle myself, and 2) I have an anchor ready to drop in case I need to float for a while to wait for a tow.

Good plan on never fully trusting the engine and having the anchor set to go.

This year as we motored on down the river to our mooring spot after launch, our OB died right after I turned upriver to approach the ball, and I couldn't get it started again quickly. We were lucky that the tide had just started to come in so the river current was nearly slack. We drifted only 100 feet or so in the time it took me to retrieve the anchor from below and secure it to the rode. We we never in any danger, but it does get the heart pumping a bit when you aren't 100% prepared for trouble. Chalk one up to live &amp;amp; learn. Anchor will be ready to go when we launch next year.

Nice. Yeah, I'm lucky in that respect. The J/30 has an anchor locker on deck, that holds the anchor and chain. I keep my 200ft of nylon rode in the cockpit locker. It takes me about 45 seconds to pull the rode, connect it to the anchor, and be ready to drop the thing if I need to. If I'm doing something in close quarters, I expect I'll rig it and leave it on deck, just in case.

I keep the rode run out the forward cowl vent, lead aft to the anchor locker and hooked to the chain at all times. I put three tie-wraps spaced 120 degrees apart on the rode with the tails left on to form a "stopper" below the cowl vent to prevent the rode from inadvertently deploying. If the anchor is needed, just tug on the rode and the tails pull through the cowl vent.

[alx]

+1 to never fully trusting an engine. That's why I don't plan on leaving the dock until 1) I have a mainsail ready to go that I can handle myself, and 2) I have an anchor ready to drop in case I need to float for a while to wait for a tow.

Good plan on never fully trusting the engine and having the anchor set to go.

This year as we motored on down the river to our mooring spot after launch, our OB died right after I turned upriver to approach the ball, and I couldn't get it started again quickly. We were lucky that the tide had just started to come in so the river current was nearly slack. We drifted only 100 feet or so in the time it took me to retrieve the anchor from below and secure it to the rode. We we never in any danger, but it does get the heart pumping a bit when you aren't 100% prepared for trouble. Chalk one up to live &amp;amp; learn. Anchor will be ready to go when we launch next year.

Nice. Yeah, I'm lucky in that respect. The J/30 has an anchor locker on deck, that holds the anchor and chain. I keep my 200ft of nylon rode in the cockpit locker. It takes me about 45 seconds to pull the rode, connect it to the anchor, and be ready to drop the thing if I need to. If I'm doing something in close quarters, I expect I'll rig it and leave it on deck, just in case.

I keep the rode run out the forward cowl vent, lead aft to the anchor locker and hooked to the chain at all times. I put three tie-wraps spaced 120 degrees apart on the rode with the tails left on to form a "stopper" below the cowl vent to prevent the rode from inadvertently deploying. If the anchor is needed, just tug on the rode and the tails pull through the cowl vent.

Oh, this is a great idea. I'll have to try something like this. I guess as long as the rode is coiled properly below, it should unravel without tangling.

[WHK]

Don't coil the rode. Just push it through the vent and let it sit in the forward v-berth space the way it falls. It will deploy just fine. If you coil it, you'll be guaranteed that it will tangle.

[alx]

Nice, I will have to give that a try.

Seriously, thanks for all the great advice, guys.

Another question, if you'll accommodate me: The tiller in the J/30 is exceptionally long, reaching almost all the way to the front of the cockpit. While this is nice for single handing, I'm thinking it might be uncomfortable when I have friends aboard. Is shortening the tiller an option? I'm concerned about the J/30's "barn door" style rudder. Do I really need all that leverage to control it?

-Alex

[WHK]

I wouldn't shorten it, particularly for SF Bay winds. Your crew should be cheeks on the teak to keep the boat flat anyway

If at the dock or mooring, you can swing the tiller up and bungee to the stern rail. Note the tiller tied off below.

Here is a sampling on how many you can get in the J/30 cockpit. There were 3 more on the dock who got off for the picture.

[alx]

I wouldn't shorten it, particularly for SF Bay winds. Your crew should be cheeks on the teak to keep the boat flat anyway

If at the dock or mooring, you can swing the tiller up and bungee to the stern rail. Note the tiller tied off below.

Here is a sampling on how many you can get in the J/30 cockpit. There were 3 more on the dock who got off for the picture.

Nice picture. Yeah, I already tuck the tiller behind the backstay when at the dock. I don't plan on really making people push their weight out to the rail when I go out, though. A little bit of adjustment is alright, but for daysailing I'm not worried about squeezing the last bit of performance out. I'd rather reef early and ease out the main to carry a luff than have everyone dangle their toes over the edge. Then again, this is all theoretical... I won't know what works best until I actually get out there.

[Ishmael]

I wouldn't shorten it, particularly for SF Bay winds. Your crew should be cheeks on the teak to keep the boat flat anyway

If at the dock or mooring, you can swing the tiller up and bungee to the stern rail. Note the tiller tied off below.

Here is a sampling on how many you can get in the J/30 cockpit. There were 3 more on the dock who got off for the picture.

Nice picture. Yeah, I already tuck the tiller behind the backstay when at the dock. I don't plan on really making people push their weight out to the rail when I go out, though. A little bit of adjustment is alright, but for daysailing I'm not worried about squeezing the last bit of performance out. I'd rather reef early and ease out the main to carry a luff than have everyone dangle their toes over the edge. Then again, this is all theoretical... I won't know what works best until I actually get out there.

Instead of shortening the existing tiller, why not make a new shorter one out of something cheap, just to see if it works well enough.

[alx]

I wouldn't shorten it, particularly for SF Bay winds. Your crew should be cheeks on the teak to keep the boat flat anyway

If at the dock or mooring, you can swing the tiller up and bungee to the stern rail. Note the tiller tied off below.

Here is a sampling on how many you can get in the J/30 cockpit. There were 3 more on the dock who got off for the picture.

Nice picture. Yeah, I already tuck the tiller behind the backstay when at the dock. I don't plan on really making people push their weight out to the rail when I go out, though. A little bit of adjustment is alright, but for daysailing I'm not worried about squeezing the last bit of performance out. I'd rather reef early and ease out the main to carry a luff than have everyone dangle their toes over the edge. Then again, this is all theoretical... I won't know what works best until I actually get out there.

Instead of shortening the existing tiller, why not make a new shorter one out of something cheap, just to see if it works well enough.

Oh, yeah, the plan would be to replace it with a shorter tiller, not cut down the existing one. The existing one is kind of worn anyway, and would need a lot of work to refinish. Debating whether I should invest in it or just replace it with something smaller.

[Spoonie]

Oh, yeah, the plan would be to replace it with a shorter tiller, not cut down the existing one. The existing one is kind of worn anyway, and would need a lot of work to refinish. Debating whether I should invest in it or just replace it with something smaller.

Which option would give you the most enjoyment? I wouldn't be shortening a tiller just to fit people in a cockpit. General operational/clearance reasons maybe...

[Beau.Vrolyk]

Alx,

I crew on a Express-37 where the skipper sails around while standing up with the tiller in his hands. As a result, the tiller passes over the heads of the aftermost two guys in the cockpit. It works great. Of course, he's racing, but you can just lift the thing up to let people change sides and then lower it again when you're on the new tack/gybe. I do think you'll find that you need all that length, and perhaps a bit more, at times on the J30.

You can take another tack and just sail underpowered. That will remove a lot of the pressure on the tiller.

BV

[Leka]

Great thread.
With all the other shit that is going on at the moment, its refreshing to see some good stuff as well.

Some great advice from people that have obvious experience in the right areas.

Alx, seems like your having fun with your boat, well done.

This does seem like a re-run of the Ajax thread as someone said before.

Alx, How long before your upgrading and working out racing spinnaker set up?

[Great Red Shark]

Mark the tiller with tape 6 inches and 1 foot from the forward end, then GO SAILING and try not using anymore tiller than those lengths - you'll likely find the length you need pretty quickly. Trimming off a couple inches may really help, or not make much difference - I've experienced both - and on not-new boats.

Like any worn bit of gear, your first instinct to just get a new one can prove expensive, quick. Refurbishing the tiller is a relatively easy chore - you can take it home to trim & sand & epoxy & sand & paint - thus establishing the realization that a substantial part of boat care is carrying things and sanding. Having that break at the wrong time is bad - take care of it AND shop around for a spare.

[Tom Ray]

Don't coil the rode. Just push it through the vent and let it sit in the forward v-berth space the way it falls. It will deploy just fine. If you coil it, you'll be guaranteed that it will tangle.

+1 to this and if you're keeping the anchor hooked to its rode, presumably with at least one shackle involved, remember what shackles want to do: unscrew themselves. Wire it.

[Alpha FB]

I think most of us have stories about engines quitting at the most inopportune moments (for me, just when crossing a shipping lane, with a lock-load of inland freighters bearing down on me, adverse tide, aiming for the harbour entrance nearly dead down wind... made it without drama in the end, but not a comfortable situation by all means...)

The thing is, the marine environment is very harsh for internal combustion engines and ancillary systems. So just from the perspective of good seamanship, it is wise to be prepared at all times for the eventuality of the engine stopping, whether its a brand new installation or a 40 year old block of rust...

[Tucky]

Mark the tiller with tape 6 inches and 1 foot from the forward end, then GO SAILING and try not using anymore tiller than those lengths - you'll likely find the length you need pretty quickly. Trimming off a couple inches may really help, or not make much difference - I've experienced both - and on not-new boats.

Like any worn bit of gear, your first instinct to just get a new one can prove expensive, quick. Refurbishing the tiller is a relatively easy chore - you can take it home to trim & sand & epoxy & sand & paint - thus establishing the realization that a substantial part of boat care is carrying things and sanding. Having that break at the wrong time is bad - take care of it AND shop around for a spare.

+1. The tiller (actually the last three feet) is the only piece of wood on my boat and is fun to take care of- every few years I put it in a warm place, sand it completely and put a few coats of fancy clear finish on it. My memory says you don't have much more wood on your J 30, so have fun.

Of course this is the winter for refinishing it (4 years) and I'm having trouble getting it out of the 6 feet of carbon fiber that make up the rest of the tiller- seems in my haste to do the install I drilled a hole through my perfectly varnished tiller to pin it in the carbon fiber socket, and that one little hole (I should have drilled oversized, filled with epoxy and redrilled) let in enough moisture to stick the two together.

I haven't given up, but I considering not following my own advice.

[alx]

Really good advice regarding shackles. I plan on wiring the pelican hooks for my lifeline gate shut while underway too - I've heard those things spring open at the worst times as well.

So my artwork for the new name is in - opinions, anyone?

Attached Files

•  ananda_crop.jpg   89.47K   6 downloads

[On the Hard]

Looks nice to me. I like the Font choice.

Have you replaced the halyards and other running rigging yet? Have you actually taken it sailing yet? I can't imagine the anticipaltion if you haven't. For a relative newbie you have been very thoughtful about making sure your boat is properly sorted before going out and getting in trouble. (very unlike me)

[Beau.Vrolyk]

Really good advice regarding shackles. I plan on wiring the pelican hooks for my lifeline gate shut while underway too - I've heard those things spring open at the worst times as well.

So my artwork for the new name is in - opinions, anyone?

Alx - plastic electrical wire ties are often better than wire. The ends of the wire can cut/stab things - like thumbs - while the wire ties are kinder. Bad thing is plastic is a one-use thing, while the wire is multi-use. For many applications, small string does just fine and it multi use - like our lifeline gate. BV

ps: I like the font except that it might be a little hard to read from far away, not a biggie.

[alx]

Looks nice to me. I like the Font choice.

Have you replaced the halyards and other running rigging yet? Have you actually taken it sailing yet? I can't imagine the anticipaltion if you haven't. For a relative newbie you have been very thoughtful about making sure your boat is properly sorted before going out and getting in trouble. (very unlike me)

Thanks! I've been trying to be very responsible about not going out until I was confident I wouldn't end up in a bad situation. The channel from MBYH out to the bay is actually fairly long, and narrow at some points. It wouldn't be good to break down there without preparation. The anticipation has been crazy, although it's good to be doing repairs this time of the year.

Yes, I've replaced most of the running rigging: main halyard, mainsheet, traveler, backstay adjuster, reefing lines, boom vang, and cunningham. My jib halyard is in good condition, and I haven't figured out how to gain access to the outhaul in order to replace it (but it's not really that distressed).

I took it out on Sunday, after putting on the new mainsail! No wind to speak of, but I had a fun time motoring around, and anchoring for some light engine repairs (fixing the shutoff cable).

Attached Files

•  main_dock.jpg   72.63K   41 downloads
•  on_water.jpg   67.5K   36 downloads

[Tom Ray]

Really good advice regarding shackles. I plan on wiring the pelican hooks for my lifeline gate shut while underway too - I've heard those things spring open at the worst times as well.

So my artwork for the new name is in - opinions, anyone?

Alx - plastic electrical wire ties are often better than wire.

The thing about those is, they tend to sit up on the bow in the sun where the plastic gets baked and cracks. The black ones are more UV resistant than others, but all degrade. If you go that route, I'd say cut and replace it at least once a year.

[WHK]

.....
I took it out on Sunday, after putting on the new mainsail! No wind to speak of, but I had a fun time motoring around, and anchoring for some light engine repairs (fixing the shutoff cable).

Alx - is that the original sail number for the boat on your new main? Looks like a US Sailing assigned number.

[On the Hard]

Good for you for getting out before you get it perfect. I tend to go too far the other way and figure I can recover fom almost anything in-shore. But no doubt, having your main halyard part while in the middle of the bay would be a PIA of the highest order. You've done a lot of good work and asked a lot of good questions. You are going to make a fine skipper.

Just one thing. If you get married and have kids, don't ever sell the boat. Even if you don't use it as much as you like and the expense vs. time used seems crazy, don't sell it. Otherwise you'll wind up -

On The Hard

20 years and counting for me...

[alx]

.....
I took it out on Sunday, after putting on the new mainsail! No wind to speak of, but I had a fun time motoring around, and anchoring for some light engine repairs (fixing the shutoff cable).

Alx - is that the original sail number for the boat on your new main? Looks like a US Sailing assigned number.

I believe Pineapple just copied the number from the old main. I've actually been trying to figure out where it came from / what the registration is so I can move it to my name. I don't know very much about sail numbers or how they work.

[A_guy_in_the_Chesapeake]

For those who don't want to use wire ties, aviation wire bundle tying may be a viable option.
http://www.aeroelect...cable_lace.html

[Tucky]

.....
I took it out on Sunday, after putting on the new mainsail! No wind to speak of, but I had a fun time motoring around, and anchoring for some light engine repairs (fixing the shutoff cable).

Alx - is that the original sail number for the boat on your new main? Looks like a US Sailing assigned number.

I believe Pineapple just copied the number from the old main. I've actually been trying to figure out where it came from / what the registration is so I can move it to my name. I don't know very much about sail numbers or how they work.

My memory is that they are assigned by US Sailing and are unique and stay with the boat. I don't think you need to contact US Sailing at all, but I could be wrong- I never have.

US25568

[breezetrees]

The San Francisco bay SF30 fleet includes the J-30 and other similar boats, if you join the yahoo group you can get in touch with other local owners.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sf30s/

I've got a Laser 28 at Richmond YC (also a SF30 boat), maybe I'll see you on the water.

[deadbeatracer]

Nice, I will have to give that a try.

Seriously, thanks for all the great advice, guys.

Another question, if you'll accommodate me: The tiller in the J/30 is exceptionally long, reaching almost all the way to the front of the cockpit. While this is nice for single handing, I'm thinking it might be uncomfortable when I have friends aboard. Is shortening the tiller an option? I'm concerned about the J/30's "barn door" style rudder. Do I really need all that leverage to control it?

-Alex

The load on the helm will be very heavy in certain winds and angles. I was worn out after some reaches on our J30 in decent breeze. You might regret shortening the tiller even if it gives more room in the cockpit, your crew will adapt to space given. Sitting on the side decks, leaning back against the cabin is a comfortable spot to be. A friend who owned a 30 for a long time and only raced PHRF put a Humbolt 30 rudder on and he said it made a huge difference on the effort it took to drive his boat. This is a more balanced rudder and may be a direction to look at in the long term.

[WHK]

If you properly trim the sails, the pressure on the tiller is ok. I sailed another J/30 with a balanced rudder and didn't like the feel at all, as I am used to the stock J/30 rudder. The rudder provides feedback to you that the sail trim is good or needs adjustment. Look at if this way, if the forces on the rudder are causing problems steering, you aren't converting the wind energy into moving the boat forward and need to adjust the sails. You'll cruise longer distances and sail faster if you trim for slight pressure on the helm. So my recommendation is to go out and practice with sail trim to get a balanced helm feel. Your most challenging point of sail to trim for will be big wind about 60 degrees apparent.

You'll find the J/30 is very responsive and can turn in its own boat length when maneuvering in tight spaces (e.g. narrow channel to enter a slip). The transom hung rudder facilitates that. That same rudder acts like a brake if you are fighting it due to unbalanced sail trim.

[kdh]

Really good advice regarding shackles. I plan on wiring the pelican hooks for my lifeline gate shut while underway too - I've heard those things spring open at the worst times as well.

So my artwork for the new name is in - opinions, anyone?

alx, did I miss something? I thought the boat was going to be named Chanson.

I just realized that there are two reasons for the italics for Chanson. 1) It's a foreign language word (French); 2) It is the name of a vehicle.

I'm a stickler for proper italicization.

[Just Bob]

Really good advice regarding shackles. I plan on wiring the pelican hooks for my lifeline gate shut while underway too - I've heard those things spring open at the worst times as well.

So my artwork for the new name is in - opinions, anyone?

alx, did I miss something? I thought the boat was going to be named Chanson.

I just realized that there are two reasons for the italics for Chanson. 1) It's a foreign language word (French); 2) It is the name of a vehicle.

I'm a stickler for proper italicization.

Scroll up check it out

or

[deadbeatracer]

If you properly trim the sails, the pressure on the tiller is ok. I sailed another J/30 with a balanced rudder and didn't like the feel at all, as I am used to the stock J/30 rudder. The rudder provides feedback to you that the sail trim is good or needs adjustment. Look at if this way, if the forces on the rudder are causing problems steering, you aren't converting the wind energy into moving the boat forward and need to adjust the sails. You'll cruise longer distances and sail faster if you trim for slight pressure on the helm. So my recommendation is to go out and practice with sail trim to get a balanced helm feel. Your most challenging point of sail to trim for will be big wind about 60 degrees apparent.

You'll find the J/30 is very responsive and can turn in its own boat length when maneuvering in tight spaces (e.g. narrow channel to enter a slip). The transom hung rudder facilitates that. That same rudder acts like a brake if you are fighting it due to unbalanced sail trim.

I agree that these boats have a good feel and can be balanced by sail trim most of the time. We found in certain conditions this is harder to do and I was sailing with a full crew of experienced sailers. The question of shortening the tiller was the reason for considering the balanced rudder. My friend who did this owned his boat for 20 years and did a lot of racing and cruising and he really liked the results and said it was easier for his wife and less experienced sailers to drive. Also for day sails and cruising where you might not be paying as much attention to the trim. I personally never thought it needed it but I also would not shortening the tiller to much

[alx]

Tomorrow I'm delivering the boat to KKMI Point Richmond. I have a laundry list of to-do items: installation of running lights, the new winches, roller furler, instruments, tiller pilot, plus the basic stuff like bottom job, buff & wax, and of course, new name vinyl decal.

Can't wait to post some pictures for you guys when she's all shiny!

Also, I signed papers on a slip at Pier 39, so I'll be moving there within the month. Woohoo!

[wick]

So my artwork for the new name is in - opinions, anyone?

Alx, been enjoying your posts and glad to see you getting out on the boat. Ananda, A-n-a-n-d-a. Kind of reminds me of this classic Stompin' Tom song. Maybe you can make it work for you with a bit of rewrite.

Are you putting the name on the stern, or the aft quarters?

<img src="

[Tucky]

Aix, check the thread on Polynavicular Morbus, stat. Are your inoculations up to date. The disease is frequently found in marinas.

[alx]

So my artwork for the new name is in - opinions, anyone?

Alx, been enjoying your posts and glad to see you getting out on the boat. Ananda, A-n-a-n-d-a. Kind of reminds me of this classic Stompin' Tom song. Maybe you can make it work for you with a bit of rewrite.

Are you putting the name on the stern, or the aft quarters?

<img src="

Nice!

Name is going on both aft quarters. J/30s have transom-hung rudders, so putting the name on the stern wouldn't look so great.

[Tom Ray]

Can't wait to post some pictures for you guys when she's all shiny!

Looking forward to them. Don't forget the "before" shots. Those can come in handy if things go horribly wrong.

Maybe a new avatar picture? Yours still freaks me out a bit, though it is funny and I'm getting used to it.

[Beau.Vrolyk]

Alx,

I used to work in a boat yard, and one thing I learned there was that the owners who were always hanging around, that were always working on the boat alongside the yard crew while staying out of the way, and always treated the yard crew with respect - they had their boat done beautifully. Most owners, in my experience, look down their end of their noses at the crew (best case) and treat them badly (worst case). Those folks just can't understand why they don't get the best service and workmanship, despite how obvious it looks when I put it the way I just did.

If you can take the time to be around while your boat's on the hard, it'll make a world of difference in the results.

Beau

[alx]

So wow, did I have an interesting day today.

Left the dock around noon. My launch was a little less coordinated than I would've liked, but I got out just fine. Headed out of the marina and rounded up into the Richmond Harbor channel. I'm nursing the engine a little, trying to be careful with it. About halfway before the bend into the inner channel, I decide to throttle up a little (I'm making maybe 2-3 knots at this point). As I throttled up, it seemed like the engine was vibrating the boat quite a bit. After about 1-2 seconds, it settled down and became much quieter, though obviously still at a higher RPM.

I noticed a few seconds later that I'd completely lost all forward thrust. I tried shifting to neutral and back, then to reverse. No thrust whatsoever. I was just drifting in the middle of the channel.

I shut off the engine and made sure my anchor was ready to go. The water was slack and there was no wind to speak of, so I didn't really need to anchor, and didn't attempt to sail. I called KKMI and waited for them to come get me. I was definitely glad I had my VHF handheld, in case my cell hadn't worked or died on me (or if I dropped it in the water).

The mechanic confirmed what I observed while troubleshooting - the shaft coming out of the gearbox was still spinning, so the problem, whatever it is, is on the propeller shaft itself. Either I lost the prop, the shaft, or it backed off and is just spinning in place.

Boats are so much fun! I'm actually glad this happened on the way to the boatyard though, and not later while I was out on my own in the middle of the bay.

Alx,

I used to work in a boat yard, and one thing I learned there was that the owners who were always hanging around, that were always working on the boat alongside the yard crew while staying out of the way, and always treated the yard crew with respect - they had their boat done beautifully. Most owners, in my experience, look down their end of their noses at the crew (best case) and treat them badly (worst case). Those folks just can't understand why they don't get the best service and workmanship, despite how obvious it looks when I put it the way I just did.

If you can take the time to be around while your boat's on the hard, it'll make a world of difference in the results.

Beau

Great advice! My job prevents me from being there at all, but I'm always nice to everyone, so I think I'll be okay. I'm probably one of the most cheerful, friendly people you'll meet.

[Jose Carumba]

If you sre there around quitting time a beer or soda for the guys on your project never hurts.

[Tom Ray]

Jose, I took my little Whaler to get a new (used) engine a few years back. I asked the old guy if he would like for me to hang around and help swap the engines. He said it would cost more if I did. He told me about a big marine surplus warehouse not too far away, so I went there and browsed the whole place, had lunch, came back, paid and left. Not everyone wants an owner around while they work. But pretty much everyone enjoys a beer or other small treat at the end.

[Tom Ray]

Jose, I took my little Whaler to get a new (used) engine a few years back. I asked the old guy if he would like for me to hang around and help swap the engines. He said it would cost more if I did. He told me about a big marine surplus warehouse not too far away, so I went there and browsed the whole place, had lunch, came back, paid and left. Not everyone wants an owner around while they work. But pretty much everyone enjoys a beer or other small treat at the end.

I enjoy a beer, what is this 'other small treat' you speak of?

Generally something nice that I grew myself, and sometimes not so small. Just what depends on the season.

Here's an example:

[WHK]

So wow, did I have an interesting day today.

Left the dock around noon. My launch was a little less coordinated than I would've liked, but I got out just fine. Headed out of the marina and rounded up into the Richmond Harbor channel. I'm nursing the engine a little, trying to be careful with it. About halfway before the bend into the inner channel, I decide to throttle up a little (I'm making maybe 2-3 knots at this point). As I throttled up, it seemed like the engine was vibrating the boat quite a bit. After about 1-2 seconds, it settled down and became much quieter, though obviously still at a higher RPM.

I noticed a few seconds later that I'd completely lost all forward thrust. I tried shifting to neutral and back, then to reverse. No thrust whatsoever. I was just drifting in the middle of the channel.

I shut off the engine and made sure my anchor was ready to go. The water was slack and there was no wind to speak of, so I didn't really need to anchor, and didn't attempt to sail. I called KKMI and waited for them to come get me. I was definitely glad I had my VHF handheld, in case my cell hadn't worked or died on me (or if I dropped it in the water).

The mechanic confirmed what I observed while troubleshooting - the shaft coming out of the gearbox was still spinning, so the problem, whatever it is, is on the propeller shaft itself. Either I lost the prop, the shaft, or it backed off and is just spinning in place.

......

Alx - don't be so sure it's the prop. The clutch slipping exhibits the exact same symptoms. Go to the J/30 forum and read these two threads:

• Prop Rattle
• Prop Vibration, Slipping Clutch??

I also have info on fixing the clutch / rebuilding the transmission on my blog.

[alx]

So wow, did I have an interesting day today.

Left the dock around noon. My launch was a little less coordinated than I would've liked, but I got out just fine. Headed out of the marina and rounded up into the Richmond Harbor channel. I'm nursing the engine a little, trying to be careful with it. About halfway before the bend into the inner channel, I decide to throttle up a little (I'm making maybe 2-3 knots at this point). As I throttled up, it seemed like the engine was vibrating the boat quite a bit. After about 1-2 seconds, it settled down and became much quieter, though obviously still at a higher RPM.

I noticed a few seconds later that I'd completely lost all forward thrust. I tried shifting to neutral and back, then to reverse. No thrust whatsoever. I was just drifting in the middle of the channel.

I shut off the engine and made sure my anchor was ready to go. The water was slack and there was no wind to speak of, so I didn't really need to anchor, and didn't attempt to sail. I called KKMI and waited for them to come get me. I was definitely glad I had my VHF handheld, in case my cell hadn't worked or died on me (or if I dropped it in the water).

The mechanic confirmed what I observed while troubleshooting - the shaft coming out of the gearbox was still spinning, so the problem, whatever it is, is on the propeller shaft itself. Either I lost the prop, the shaft, or it backed off and is just spinning in place.

......

Alx - don't be so sure it's the prop. The clutch slipping exhibits the exact same symptoms. Go to the J/30 forum and read these two threads:

• Prop Rattle
• Prop Vibration, Slipping Clutch??

I also have info on fixing the clutch / rebuilding the transmission on my blog.

Good resources regarding clutch slip - I will have a mechanic check that out.

I've got confirmation the prop is to blame for this incident though, though. Or rather, the lack of a prop...

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•  missingProp.jpg   287.29K   28 downloads

[hard aground]

I hate it when that happens!!!

[WHK]

I gues the screw threads on the shaft are a little too fine to propel the boat....

[Ishmael]

I have a nicely polished and balanced 17x10 RH 2-blade for 1" shaft sitting in my shop...comies with a free castle nut.

[WHK]

J/30 needs a Martec Right Hand 14 in diameter, 14 pitch, elliptical. Shaft diameter matched to boat. could be 3/4" or 1" diameter.

[alx]

J/30 needs a Martec Right Hand 14 in diameter, 14 pitch, elliptical. Shaft diameter matched to boat. could be 3/4" or 1" diameter.

Is that a class rule?

The guys at the yard are recommending a Max-Prop as a replacement.

[WHK]

yes it is per class rules. More importantly the diameter and pitch are matched to the engine/transmission ratio. The max prop will give you better power astern than the folding Martec though.

[alx]

Aha, love it!

Just got this today from the boatyard. New name vinyl applied!

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•  photo.jpg   82.95K   13 downloads