31 replies to this topic

[lela51]

Does anyone have a recommendation for an anti fouling product for the shaft and wheel. I see some using bottom paint other using a greasy looking translucent coating. Any suggestions appreciated.

[dead man walking]

Just asked a boatyard buddy the same thing, my prop and shaft were covered with barnacles. He said baby rash cream works the best and you can apply it while it's in the water as well.

[FastBottoms]

Best options (forget about the baby's ass cream and all the other bullshit homespun remedies):

Expensive- Prop Speed. Difficult to apply, doesn't last a particularly long time but works great.

http://www.propspeedusa.com/

Cheap- Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier. Easy to apply, lasts a long time, works fairly well.

http://www.pettitpai...gory.asp?id=279

[sailman]

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound



I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

[sailglobal]

Forespar had a new product at the Long Beach Sailboat show. Suggest you contact them.

[DrewR]

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound



I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

Just curious, how does it perform as an anti foulant? It doesn't seem to contain any recognizable anti fouling material...

[GybeSet®]

Expensive- Prop Speed. Difficult to apply, doesn't last a particularly long time but works great.

http://www.propspeedusa.com/

lasts 12 months IF applied according to instructions (not sparingly) and is NOT scrubbed with abrasive pads

how expensive depends on if the yard is using the opportunity to rip you off

i.e. a 'kit' can do maybe 8-10 typically sized saildrive props but you are NEVER charged an 1/8th of a 'kit'

Also when applied by the yard bozo who is not paid a rate equivalent to applying any 'brainage' or care you will get barnacles within months

[sailman]

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound



I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

Just curious, how does it perform as an anti foulant? It doesn't seem to contain any recognizable anti fouling material...

Just a slight amount of slim, never a barnacle to be seen. The 'anti-foul' is the zinc and nickel.

[dead man walking]

Best options (forget about the baby's ass cream and all the other bullshit homespun remedies):

Expensive- Prop Speed. Difficult to apply, doesn't last a particularly long time but works great.

http://www.propspeedusa.com/

Cheap- Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier. Easy to apply, lasts a long time, works fairly well.

http://www.pettitpai...gory.asp?id=279

Well, look at this, a new application for props and shafts, lanolin based (like that bullshit homespun remedy)

http://www.forespar....op-bottom.shtml

I think I'll pass on the expensive stuff and try the baby's ass cream, looks like it'll probably work, and like I said, you can apply it in the water as well. Worse case scenario is I end up with the same growth I had this year, which was OK since I did the bottom bi-weekly, just got barnacles the last month when I didn't do it.

[olaf hart]

Most folks around here use anhydrous lanoline, like lanocote but at supermarket or drugstore prices.
You want the thick greasy stuff, not the thin nappy one.

Generally heat the prop and then put it on, bonds better.
I have a Volvo seal, so I just put it on and flow it with a heat gun.

Must give the Rustoleum a go, can't get Pettit around here.

[Steven B]

Just asked a boatyard buddy the same thing, my prop and shaft were covered with barnacles. He said baby rash cream works the best and you can apply it while it's in the water as well.

I tried the "baby-rash cream" and found it lasts about 1 week, at least here in Narragansett Bay. I still have a mostly full tub of it, free to anybody with a baby (probably works better on that bottom).

[Peccadillo]

have used propspeed for two years on sailing boat, so props only get relatively short term use, therefore antifouling has to work hard. works brilliantly. lasted 12 months each time. prob wd have lasted longer but re-do at annual haul-out anyway.

[GybeSet®]

yep

[FastBottoms]

Well, look at this, a new application for props and shafts, lanolin based (like that bullshit homespun remedy)

http://www.forespar....op-bottom.shtml

...looks like it'll probably work...

Based on what- the manufacturer's claims? Hey, I've got a bridge to sell you, too.

No, seriously, I'm interested in how this product performs. Since it can be applied underwater, it could turn out to be a little revenue generator for hull cleaners such as myself. Unfortunately, I missed the product demo Forespar did at a local West Marine a few months ago. I may just buy a tub of it and do some unofficial product testing on my own here in the Bay Area. if I do, I'll be sure to post the results.

[FastBottoms]

Just ordered a tub of the Lanocote Prop & Bottom goop. Plan to begin using it on selected sail and powerboats this month. Will report back with results and pix.

[dead man walking]

Just ordered a tub of the Lanocote Prop & Bottom goop. Plan to begin using it on selected sail and powerboats this month. Will report back with results and pix.

Will you just be trying it in the Bay? Do you think there'd be a difference between the cold water there and warmer water down toward Mexico?

[FastBottoms]

Just ordered a tub of the Lanocote Prop & Bottom goop. Plan to begin using it on selected sail and powerboats this month. Will report back with results and pix.

Will you just be trying it in the Bay? Do you think there'd be a difference between the cold water there and warmer water down toward Mexico?

Yes, I will only be using it in San Francisco Bay- more specifically, the East Bay Area. The manufacturer goes to some lengths on their web site to point out that the product's effectiveness will vary depending upon several factors, among them water temperature and fouling conditions. I consider the Bay to have moderate-to-high fouling. So judge my results based on that. YMMV.

[dead man walking]

Wjat do you think the water temperature is in that area of the Bay in the summer? ~55 degrees?

[Monster Mash]

Wjat do you think the water temperature is in that area of the Bay in the summer? ~55 degrees?

65+

[dead man walking]

good, thanks.

[FastBottoms]

Wjat do you think the water temperature is in that area of the Bay in the summer? ~55 degrees?

65+

+1
It will get over 70 in the Estuary.

[floating dutchman]

Most folks around here use anhydrous lanoline, like lanocote but at supermarket or drugstore prices.
You want the thick greasy stuff, not the thin nappy one.

Generally heat the prop and then put it on, bonds better.
I have a Volvo seal, so I just put it on and flow it with a heat gun.

Must give the Rustoleum a go, can't get Pettit around here.

I use Lanicote. Oddly enought the best results I had were when I applied it IN the water.
I don't know the reason just that it seemed to work.

[Soho]

I tried some of the Forespar stuff recently on my strut, prop and shaft. Water temp was 82 degrees, and I usually get barnacles and growth pretty quickly. It was a bit tricky to apply underwater, tended to glob off in big spheres as you were trying to apply, but eventually I got it on. Results were pretty good in that it stopped the hard core stuff - barnacles - from growing but there was a little fuzz. Still, it was easy to clean the prop up. I am racing so I get it all clean each race. I will apply it again next time I clean the prop and see how it does now that the water temp has dropped to 72 and lower for the winter. I plan to apply it when I haul the boat next, which will be soon, unless I make the leap of faith and go for Rustoleum trick..

[charisma94]

Expensive- Prop Speed. Difficult to apply, doesn't last a particularly long time but works great.

http://www.propspeedusa.com/

lasts 12 months IF applied according to instructions (not sparingly) and is NOT scrubbed with abrasive pads

how expensive depends on if the yard is using the opportunity to rip you off

i.e. a 'kit' can do maybe 8-10 typically sized saildrive props but you are NEVER charged an 1/8th of a 'kit'

Also when applied by the yard bozo who is not paid a rate equivalent to applying any 'brainage' or care you will get barnacles within months

I'm a "yard bozo" I guess. I've actually applied the stuff a thousand times and get fantastic results. I'd rip you off too Gybe-set if you act like this around me. Some people make themselves a target, no?

Anyway,...

It's expensive to buy and labour intensive to apply. Below is a cut & paste from (yet) another running gear forum, where I broke down the time & materials for those of you who feel the yard is taking an opportunity to rip you off.

A two blade saildrive prop would be $200 in my yard.

Have a read how it gets applied GS...educate yourself. It's not just a tin of stuff you "paint" on & job done.

_________________________________________

We base our propspeed charges on $100 per blade.

A quick break down of our actual propspeed application costing on say a 40' game boat with 2 x 4 blade propellers...

1 x kit propspeed = $390 incl freight. If you're doing it properly, you would use just about all of the kit.
1 x 3M purple grinding disc $12
1 x PPE (leather gloves, respirators, eye protection, ear muffs, grinder) let's say proportion of expenditure for this job = $5
2 x disposable brushes = $2.20
1 x Acetone / thinner & clean rags for prep = $2

Total materials = +-$410

Labour @ $85/hr

Set up tools & grind both 4-blade props bare = 1 hr (remember not a sailing yacht, so they're bent over and crouched under the boat wielding a grinder with foggy safety goggles & not standing up working at a comfortable height like on sail boats.)

Mix the etch = 20 minutes minimum. THIS is one of the keys to successful application, getting ALL the solid off the bottom of the can and back into solution. It takes ages if done properly. If you want good results, do not skimp on this step!)

Apply etch x 2 brush coats. Each prop 15 minutes per coat, going straight from one prop to the other = 1 hr. (Again in that horrible position under the boat, it eats up time.)

Must wait for the etch to "set up" before silicone application = +-15 min

Apply silicone top coat. It's certainly not difficult. It's kinda like varnishing, you have to go slow to "float" the silicone on and get an even coat... keep going back looking for holidays, brushing in runs... = 20 min/prop = 40min

Clean up all silicone dust from grinding = 10min

Total labour = 3.4hrs lets be generous and call it 3 hrs @ 85 = $255

$410 + 255 = $665 Material & labour

$800 - 665 = $135 profit


Seriously expensive, lots of labour & materials and a small profit for the business. We ain't getti'n rich on Propspeed. But if you find people who'll sell the dregs of a tin to do a small yacht prop & do it yourself, you'll save plenty off your yard bill, but when isn't that the case?

One last thing, if you want to shorten the life of this stuff, allow your hull cleaner to wipe it. Great for us... IMO it shouldn't be touched even with a soft cloth or sponge. If you're getting barnies, it was put on wrong(holidays) or wiped by a diver.
________________________________________________________________________

[GybeSet®]

from one bozo to another

how f#%^ many do you think i've done, particularly when it became apparent that mine were the ones coming up clean 12 months later, then the next 12, then the .....

reckon you are making my point, $800 for 8 (LARGE) prop blades, racing saildrive 2bl props being about the surface area of your hands

p.s. have you used it on those underwater LED poser lights the fizzboats are using? just top coat works well
also done shafts(of course) struts, brackets rudders & trim tabs, up in size to v high powered Navy mine clearance vessels(spraying the etch ... only time 'even' appearing coverage)

" One last thing, if you want to shorten the life of this stuff, allow your hull cleaner to wipe it. Great for us "
love it

[charisma94]

from one bozo to another

how f#%^ many do you think i've done, particularly when it became apparent that mine were the ones coming up clean 12 months later, then the next 12, then the .....

reckon you are making my point, $800 for 8 (LARGE) prop blades, racing saildrive 2bl props being about the surface area of your hands

p.s. have you used it on those underwater LED poser lights the fizzboats are using? just top coat works well
also done shafts(of course) struts, brackets rudders & trim tabs, up in size to v high powered Navy mine clearance vessels(spraying the etch ... only time 'even' appearing coverage)

" One last thing, if you want to shorten the life of this stuff, allow your hull cleaner to wipe it. Great for us "
love it

Yeah works well on underwater lights. We've started using it on transducer surfaces too.

Probably not so interesting for sailors with small inefficient props. But an interesting thing I noticed recently; I was looking after a largish trawler style boat. Single screw with antifouled prop, we'd burn 49L/hr at 10 knots after dry docking. When we next went to the yard I had the prop done in Propspeed, we now cruise at 10 knots using 40L/hr. The fuel efficiencies are pretty real in my observations.

[Foreverslow]

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound



I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

Just curious, how does it perform as an anti foulant? It doesn't seem to contain any recognizable anti fouling material...

Just a slight amount of slim, never a barnacle to be seen. The 'anti-foul' is the zinc and nickel.

+1

buddy put me on to this in the spring.

he thinks rustoleum is relabeled by petit based on MSDs.

$6 is Chump change and available at home depot.
used on strut and prop with good success.
no galvanic corrosion seen.

[SailAR]

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound



I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

Just curious, how does it perform as an anti foulant? It doesn't seem to contain any recognizable anti fouling material...

Just a slight amount of slim, never a barnacle to be seen. The 'anti-foul' is the zinc and nickel.

+1

buddy put me on to this in the spring.

he thinks rustoleum is relabeled by petit based on MSDs.

$6 is Chump change and available at home depot.
used on strut and prop with good success.
no galvanic corrosion seen.

Have tried the Pettit Zinc and it does okay in WLIS, but not great. Better than nothing.

[pointyend]

Boat was hauled for the season after my experimental treatment of Lubriseal (a petrolatum blend used for ground glass joints in chemistry glassware). Barnacles galore... not effective compared to prior season. Boat is kept on a mooring in LIS. Think I'll use the Rustoleum next season.

[boomer]

Coat the prop and shaft with Bag Balm.Smear it on in a thin layer like grease.Barnacles and marine growth can't stick. When you haul out wipe off the old Bag Balm and replace with a fresh layer yearly. Learned this trick from an old timer in Port Townsend years ago. The base ingredient of Bag Balm is anhydrous lanolin mixed with petrolatum.

http://www.amazon.co...ywords=balm bag

http://www.amazon.co...ywords=balm bag

[itkiwi]

You might want to think about the prep before you put anything on. My experience with a bronze 15" 2 blade max prop on a saildrive suggests the polishing of the bronze with 600 grit or finer before you put on anything is the most significant factor. Nasty's don't stay where they can't hang on.

[Mr. Fixit's brother,, Mr. Fixit]

I saw some info on this stuff from the Lauderdale Boat show.. Promises a 2 yr finish on underwater gear. It ain't cheap...

http://clearstonecoating.com/