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Bottom Paint Opinions - Did you try anything new this season that work


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#1 stealingisacrime

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 04:55 PM

I know bottom paint has been discussed 1000 times, so I just want to know if anyone tried anything new this season... 2013.

I figure by now you would know.

 

I am a VC Offshore user who is just wondering if their is anything better.



#2 arr4ws

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 07:04 PM

Im quite interested in this . Im prepping my new J/88 this winter and wish to use interprotect/vc-17 in freshwater. Is there anything better ? most of my club are using the combination im refering to.



#3 Trendsetter

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:50 PM

if you are in freshwater no there is nothing better then VC-17 period.  

 

as for VC offshore I am still using it on my sailboat because I cant find anything better, however my local awl grip rep gave me some new Interlux bottom paint Micron CF, I am very pleased with how it has held up this season.  Sadly the boat sat for over a month and when I took her out of the slip finally for a day run 99% of the growth had sloughed off, what didn't came off was easily removed with a soft bristle brush and I did not notice a huge blue plume around me in the water



#4 sailman

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 11:58 AM

Tried Interlux ACT this year, very pleased with its performance.  For the prop Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray keeps the prop spotless throughout the season.



#5 stealingisacrime

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 12:57 PM

Anyone tried this: http://coppercoatusa.com/

OR some of that silicone based stuff that a few people are making?



#6 CharlieCobra

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 02:28 PM

We used that copper stuff on a boat and will never touch it again, EVER!!!!



#7 Trendsetter

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 02:58 PM

I can not agree more with Charlie I will never ever use the copper stuff again, I have even been sent messages from the makers asking me why, and how it is never there fault.  

 

I have used the silicon based paints in the past.  If you are doing a first time bottom job and you leave your boat in the water 8-10 months a year or year round this is the way you should be looking to go!  I have used the Sherman Williams and the intersleek.  I prefer the intersleek for ease of application, I have had it on the bottom of one of my boats right now for over 5 years and it still holding up great and working fine with out re-coating it.  



#8 sailman

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 03:16 PM

Charlie,

What was the issue?  Difficult to work with?  Doesn't work?

We used that copper stuff on a boat and will never touch it again, EVER!!!!



#9 Py26129

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 05:22 PM

I also would be interested in what the issue with the Copper stuff is. 

 

 

As to bottom paint, nope, nothing new this year.  We will haul the boat out for the winter, pressure wash the bottom and put it back in the water in the spring.  Unless it comes out scummier that the other boats, the current paint will do.



#10 CharlieCobra

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 11:45 PM

We put on eight freaking coats of the stuff EIGHT!  Just to get coverage and it has to cure 72 hrs with no moisture as well as 24 hours between coats.  Does it work?  Don't know yet since the boat is on the hard and tied up in litigation.  I do know that it's looking shabby in places already and has given up and flaked off of the strut in places.



#11 quezal1

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 01:53 AM

We are using e paint on both powerboats and the sailboat in the Great Lakes and is truly amazing lasts 2 seasons in chicago and holds it color .bit more exepensive than most others but lasts 2 seasons so well worth the initial cost

#12 JRC808

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 05:27 AM

coppercoat is holding up nicely on a holder 20' near me( southern ca). not a bit of crap on the bottom. they had a strict application routine. "To ensure a satisfactory chemical bond between coats, all the required coats should be applied consecutively in a single day." rolled straight onto the gelcoat hull after roughing up and wiping with acetone.



#13 Trendsetter

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 11:35 AM

quezal1, are you talking about copper coat or VC 17?  because if its copper coat you should be seeing a hell of a lot longer then two years out of it according to the manufacturer 



#14 thefuture

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 02:45 PM

For fresh water why VC-17? You realize Pettits SR-21 has more copper, goes on easier, you actually get a full can, and it's a better price? It will roll on right over VC-17.

#15 Trendsetter

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 03:06 PM

Sorry I should have said any of VC 17 derivatives be it sr 21 or the old west marine house brand. That style of paint in fresh water is hands down the best way to go

#16 thefuture

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 08:44 PM

West marines house brand bottom paints are all made by Pettit.

#17 WHK

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 11:28 PM

Tried Interlux ACT this year, very pleased with its performance.  For the prop Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray keeps the prop spotless throughout the season.

+1000 for Sailman's Rustoleum recommendation.  I've tried everything under the sun for prop & shaft.  This is the first stuff I have found that actually works, is readily available and dirt cheap.  I have zero growth of anything on the prop or shaft here in Narraganset Bay this year since painting them in the spring with Rustoleum.



#18 quezal1

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 02:43 AM

quezal1, are you talking about copper coat or VC 17?  because if its copper coat you should be seeing a hell of a lot longer then two years out of it according to the manufacturer 


Trend setter

I am talking about a product called http://www.epaint.com absolutley amazing stuff comes Ina range of colors and for all types of use

#19 thefuture

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 01:49 AM

You must work for epaint? Because I have never seen/heard good things.

#20 FastBottoms

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 02:05 AM

E-paint definitely has its fans. I ain't one of 'em, however.



#21 Gray Skies

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 02:13 AM

I've used Sea Hawk Smart Solutions copper free. It is wothless. By the third week you could not see the paint for the growth. The factory rep's response when I could get one has been basically yeah we know. I was told it needs scrubbing every couple of weeks. I was also told if seeing the growth bothered me use black instead of white.

 

There other paints may be ok but this is not ready for prime time.



#22 Tucky

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 12:49 PM

FWIW, the EPaint ZO racing finish works well for me, in Maine with a four month season and a boat I can clean easily, and repaint lightly each year. Stays nice and clean and white.



#23 Steven B

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 11:54 AM

Hydrocoat SR this year (Upper Narragansett Bay - Rhode Island) and more barnicles than an abandoned pier.  I have NEVER had barnicles before with any other paint.  Tried this due to Practical Sailor reports, but at least here it is just awful.



#24 sailman

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 12:35 PM

Thanks for the report.  I tried Interlux ACT this year after not being able to get my normal Bluewater Marine 45.  It performed very well, my boat is in Brewer's Sakonnet.  I had considered the Hydrocoat, glad I did not experiment with it.

Hydrocoat SR this year (Upper Narragansett Bay - Rhode Island) and more barnicles than an abandoned pier.  I have NEVER had barnicles before with any other paint.  Tried this due to Practical Sailor reports, but at least here it is just awful.



#25 Pooch692000

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Posted 22 October 2013 - 09:20 PM

used micron csc after sanding/re-fairing whole bottom and barrier coating the keel and rudder.  Had it dove on every 2-3 weeks this summer.  Gets slimey if you go more, but sailing it every week takes it right off.  No barnacles at all.  Put the petit zinc zince barnacle  barrier coat on shaft and props and no issues or barnacles whatsoever or eelage of paint.  Applied correctly with 2 coats hot worked great and it is still there.  Very happy.   2 coats on hull just coming off a slight bit on bow at waterline from scrubbing every 2 weeks  good stuff!!



#26 DrewR

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Posted 23 October 2013 - 10:53 AM

Tried Interlux ACT this year, very pleased with its performance.  For the prop Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray keeps the prop spotless throughout the season.

+1000 for Sailman's Rustoleum recommendation.  I've tried everything under the sun for prop & shaft.  This is the first stuff I have found that actually works, is readily available and dirt cheap.  I have zero growth of anything on the prop or shaft here in Narraganset Bay this year since painting them in the spring with Rustoleum.

 

Tell me more about the Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing paint, please. I've tried everything on my boat as well and NOTHING seems to work for long on the shaft and prop. I am sick and tired of diving on it all summer.  

 

Can it be sprayed on a bronze prop as well as the stainless shaft? There is no electrolosis issues or anything? It works in Narraganset Bay well? I'm in Buzzards Bay and I really would like to get something that works more than the first 3 weeks of the season I normally get. 



#27 Trendsetter

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Posted 24 October 2013 - 12:45 AM

The only thing that works for the prop and shaft is prop speed. It's pricey but done right should last two seasons

#28 sailman

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Posted 24 October 2013 - 12:05 PM

Spray it on bronze or stainless, works like a charm. 

 

Corros1.gif

 

Tried Interlux ACT this year, very pleased with its performance.  For the prop Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray keeps the prop spotless throughout the season.

+1000 for Sailman's Rustoleum recommendation.  I've tried everything under the sun for prop & shaft.  This is the first stuff I have found that actually works, is readily available and dirt cheap.  I have zero growth of anything on the prop or shaft here in Narraganset Bay this year since painting them in the spring with Rustoleum.

 

Tell me more about the Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing paint, please. I've tried everything on my boat as well and NOTHING seems to work for long on the shaft and prop. I am sick and tired of diving on it all summer.  

 

Can it be sprayed on a bronze prop as well as the stainless shaft? There is no electrolosis issues or anything? It works in Narraganset Bay well? I'm in Buzzards Bay and I really would like to get something that works more than the first 3 weeks of the season I normally get. 



#29 Bill's Sock Puppet

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Posted 24 October 2013 - 11:00 PM

I am talking about a product called http://www.epaint.com absolutley amazing stuff comes Ina range of colors and for all types of use

 

 

E-paint definitely has its fans. I ain't one of 'em, however.

 

Anyone have any more experience with Epaint.  Years ago I used some on a powerboat and it worked great, it was hard and burnished smooth. 

 

They don't make that paint anymore ... I'm leery of trusting paint manufactures on what their paint can do.  Any recommendations?



#30 FastBottoms

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 12:01 AM

E-Paint is definitely still in business. Are you talking about a particular E-Paint product that is no longer available?

#31 Bill's Sock Puppet

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 06:53 AM


E-Paint is definitely still in business. Are you talking about a particular E-Paint product that is no longer available?

it was probably the original ePaint formulation, I don't recall what it was called

#32 offshorecats

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 04:17 PM

In South Florida I have had the best luck with Vivid Bottom Paint (on our sail or power catamarans).

The last big boat we built, an OFFSHORE 48, that summers in New England and here in Palm Beach in the winter has Coppercoat.

After one year the Coppercoat had zero growth...zero.

We followed the directions on the package.

The only downside in my opinion is the color which starts off new penny and turns old green penny.

I talked to their rep about adding a black color tint and his short answer was NO.

 

Michael Bell

 

www.offshorecats.com



#33 FastBottoms

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 05:35 PM

Here is a "before" shot of a CopperCoated Hallberg Rassy 42 we cleaned in Berkeley last month. You tell me how good it works.

coppercoatbottom.jpg

#34 offshorecats

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 06:34 PM

Did you apply the CopperCoat that failed? 

 

Prep and application is very important for all coatings.

 

The only boat we used Coppercoat on is performing 100% as advertised.

 

Again we followed the package directions to the letter and also watched their how to video.

 

I have been in the Epoxy business for 35 years and when one guy has a failure out of a thousand...?

 

MB



#35 FastBottoms

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 06:37 PM

Did you apply the CopperCoat that failed? 
 
Prep and application is very important for all coatings.
 
The only boat we used Coppercoat on is performing 100% as advertised.
 
I have been in the Epoxy business for 35 years and when one guy has a failure out of a thousand...?
 
MB

I did not apply the product but have come across it and other copper-loaded epoxy anti fouling coatings like it many times. I wouldn't recommend any of them to my worst enemy. Terrible results 100% of the time.

Edited by FastBottoms, 25 October 2013 - 06:41 PM.


#36 FastBottoms

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 06:47 PM

Further, I find it dificult to believe that any anti fouling coating available in this country can be left untouched for a year in a saltwater environment and exhibit "zero gowth", as you claim. Especially in a high-fouling region like Florida. Maybe you're a shill for CopperCoat?

#37 offshorecats

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 07:21 PM

Since you make your living "fixing" bottoms if you do find a system that works you should buy it and hide it.



#38 FastBottoms

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 07:44 PM

I don't "fix" bottoms, I clean 'em. Have for a long time. And I know anti fouling bullshit when I hear it.

#39 NoStrings

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 11:15 PM

Here is a "before" shot of a CopperCoated Hallberg Rassy 42 we cleaned in Berkeley last month. You tell me how good it works. coppercoatbottom.jpg

Matt, how long was that between cleanings?

I had my boat painted before the '12 Pac Cup. It was SUPPOSED to have been painted with Trinidad SR. I started seeing grassy growth in November, about 6 weeks after returning to SFO. In March we started seeing kind of hard growth. In May, I hauled and pressure washed it, and the paint more or less ran off in a blue river...like you'd expect from an ablative paint, not an epoxy paint like SR. Now when I wipe it, I get massive clouds of toxic blue, and within a week, the slime is back. Normally my SR paint jobs go at least dos anos. Would a round trip to HI degrade a paint like SR this much?

Just for grins, I jumped in the water and completely scraped the fingers of my dock clean. Sides and bottom. I was trying to dissuade the mussel embryos from getting sucked into my refrigeration system and clogging it. A great workout, and totally pointless. Within a month it looked like a specimen tank at the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

#40 FastBottoms

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 11:48 PM

Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.

Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

#41 NoStrings

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 11:59 PM

Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.
Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

Wow, I thought that copper stuff was supposed to kill damn near everything, for ages.

I may need to buy you lunch to talk about bottom prep and paint application. I'm getting a bit of the run around.

Oh, quick one...could you get a similar effect from painting over a bottom that was insufficiently "roughed up"? They essentially wet sanded the bottom by hand before painting. It was nothing like the machine sanding done at the yard next door.

#42 Dorado

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 12:50 AM

Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.

Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

How much time should pass before the 2nd coat ? (bay area weather)



#43 FastBottoms

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 12:55 AM

How much time should pass before the 2nd coat ? (bay area weather)


Completely dependent on the product in question. Read the label on the can.

#44 FastBottoms

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 01:04 AM

Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.
Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

Wow, I thought that copper stuff was supposed to kill damn near everything, for ages.

It has very little in the way of anti fouling properties. That's why we don't see it much around here.

could you get a similar effect from painting over a bottom that was insufficiently "roughed up"? They essentially wet sanded the bottom by hand before painting. It was nothing like the machine sanding done at the yard next door.


I doubt it. In that case, my guess is you'd have adhesion issues resulting in paint flaking off the hull, not soft, sloughing paint.

#45 NoStrings

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 03:09 AM

Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.
Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

Wow, I thought that copper stuff was supposed to kill damn near everything, for ages.

It has very little in the way of anti fouling properties. That's why we don't see it much around here.

could you get a similar effect from painting over a bottom that was insufficiently "roughed up"? They essentially wet sanded the bottom by hand before painting. It was nothing like the machine sanding done at the yard next door.


I doubt it. In that case, my guess is you'd have adhesion issues resulting in paint flaking off the hull, not soft, sloughing paint.

Thanks Matt. Bob H. Asked "why did you paint it with an ablative?" Kim says "our records show that we used Trinidad Pro (over two yr old SR)." All I know is that the only art of the bottom paint that is working is the SpeedProp, and I did that.

#46 Sheethead

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 04:36 PM

The boat is still in the water but from diving the bottom I think the Vivid held up better this year than in years past. I machine sanded the entire bottom to what I think was the barrier coat, scrubbed it down with Simple green, rinsed several times then following the mfg's recommendation, wiped down the hull with denatured alcohol.

The difference this year is that I sanded all of the old shit off and that we used mohair rollers, roll and tip style. The weather last spring was fickle so we had several days between coats, usually we only wait the minimum time. (24 hrs?)

The shaft and prop, different story, I was scraping shit out of the folding prop gears every week. Going to use that stuff Sailman said was the answer next season. And the fn speedo impeller... What the hell do you do with that? 



#47 FastBottoms

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 05:13 PM

Pull it when you park the boat.

#48 Sheethead

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 07:11 PM

Yeah, I said that was what I'm going to do but... ya know...



#49 Plumbean

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:36 PM

Petit Vivid (in Western LIS).  The guy who scrubs my bottom said it was the best one in the entire harbor ...



#50 familysailor

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 02:11 AM

Petit Vivid (in Western LIS).  The guy who scrubs my bottom said it was the best one in the entire harbor ...

I'll bet he says that to everyone who lets him scrub their bottom..... :blink:



#51 BobJ

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 03:09 AM

After 11 years my boat will no longer have a white bum.  I've tried Trilux, Trilux 33 and Micron CSC (and I've heard nothing good about Vivid) so I'm switching to a co-polymer - Micron 66.

 

The topsides are flag blue (very dark) and the boot is white.  I need to decide between red, blue or green.  I wanted a lighter green for that East Coast look, but Micron 66's colors are dark.  I guess I'll have a dark blue bottom on a darker blue boat, but I'm not thrilled about it.

 

I'm pretty certain about the Micron 66 and the yard says the color can't be lightened.

 

Suggestions welcome.



#52 FastBottoms

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 04:46 AM

Umm... Bob, you've been using co-polymer ablatives- Trilux 33 and Micron CSC.  :P

 

That being said, Micron 66 is one of the two anti fouling paint products I ever recommend. The other being Trinidad. All other paints are inferior by comparison, IMHO. 

 

Not that you asked or anything.  :D



#53 BobJ

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 05:31 AM

Yep, just quoting the yard manager.  I'm told it's a much harder ablative - we'll see.

 

So what's your pleasure with flag blue topsides - blue or green?



#54 FastBottoms

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 05:34 AM

Yep, just quoting the yard manager.  I'm told it's a much harder ablative - we'll see.

 

So what's your pleasure with flag blue topsides - blue or green?

 

 

It's actually a "hybrid" ablative, sharing some properties of both hard paints and ablatives.

 

I say go with green. Need some contrast.



#55 familysailor

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 12:09 AM

Yep, just quoting the yard manager.  I'm told it's a much harder ablative - we'll see.

 

So what's your pleasure with flag blue topsides - blue or green?

Look at the green on my boat. C-31

(Micron 66)

Matt gently rubs my bottom once a month......



#56 FastBottoms

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 12:13 AM

Matt gently rubs my bottom once a month......

 

And the boat gets cleaned now and then too...



#57 familysailor

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 12:28 AM

Here's a photo from 2007 --- same paint used now. Green Micron 66

 

 

 

 

 

 

Attached File  85669733_daKFLtAr_SDIM3184 a.jpg   574.05K   17 downloads

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



#58 dash34

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 02:24 AM

I've used Micron CSC for the past 20 years or so, ever since the TBT paints went off the market.  I plan to put it on again next year.  It does not give the kind of mirror smooth finish you can get with VC and some of the others, but it is super easy to clean and I easily get two years out of it.  All I get is slime which is easily removed.  In the second year I need to have a diver on it before regattas to make sure there isn't any remaining slime in areas where I can't see very well.

 

It does need to be completely cleaned off and refreshed every 2nd or 3rd haulout, otherwise the bottom layers tend to flake.  It is easily removed with a scraper or chemicals.  

 

The shark white is pretty close to white (it is actually light grey) in the water, which helps to slow down growth for some marine organisms.  In our area you do NOT want a dark bottom, lest the herring decide to use your boat as a place to put their spawn.

 

Looking for something new to try, but haven't seen anything that really grabs me with a ton of people supporting it.  For every positive report on new technology there seems to be an equal number of complaints.  Hence the decision to put it back on again.



#59 BobJ

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 02:58 AM

Dash, the boat has CSC in shark white on it now.  It hasn't held up any better than Trilux did, plus Trilux didn't turn green around the waterline (since it's not a copper paint).  Our water is probably a bit warmer than yours, and I have a slip that exposes the rudder to lots of sun.  It turns brown in a week.

 

Family, I was there today but hadn't seen your post.  If I'm back tomorrow I'll take a look. That green is lighter than the color sample on-line and would work fine.

 

@FB - There's been some talk up in the club about you guys and your rubbing . . .



#60 FastBottoms

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 06:49 AM

@FB - There's been some talk up in the club about you guys and your rubbing . . .

 

Not that there's anything wrong with that.



#61 hard aground

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 01:25 AM

Anybody considered using these yet:  http://www.nrgmarine.com/



#62 Trendsetter

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 03:44 AM

There is already an entire thread a few posts down about that system. Sounds like snake oil to me. Part of the instructions tell you to make sure you have bottom paint on the boat... Wtf?!?!

#63 FastBottoms

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 05:41 AM

There is already an entire thread a few posts down about that system. Sounds like snake oil to me. Part of the instructions tell you to make sure you have bottom paint on the boat... Wtf?!?!

 

How's it supposed to work without a proven anti fouling system already in place?  :P



#64 Mr. Fixit's brother,, Mr. Fixit

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 12:58 PM

There is already an entire thread a few posts down about that system. Sounds like snake oil to me. Part of the instructions tell you to make sure you have bottom paint on the boat... Wtf?!?!

 

How's it supposed to work without a proven anti fouling system already in place?  :P

Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.



#65 FastBottoms

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 02:39 PM

Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

 

No, they recommend anti fouling paint as protection against blistering, which of course is complete bullshit. From the Sonihull FAQ page:

 

Will i still need to paint my boat with antifouling paint?
Painting the hull is not only for purpose of antifouling. it is also an important waterproofing barrier, protecting the gel coat from the effects (and immense cost) of osmosis. Therefore we would still recommend that the boat is protected under the water line.
 
And the retardation doesn't stop there:
 
...some yacht owners who have installed the sonihull system have opted to use a harder grade of antifouling paint, as apposed to the soft self polishing versions which have a higher drag factor through the water.
 
 
 
The high school dropout spelling and grammar errors in the quoted passages are just the icing on the cake.


#66 Mr. Fixit's brother,, Mr. Fixit

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 04:34 PM

Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

 

No, they recommend anti fouling paint as protection against blistering, which of course is complete bullshit. From the Sonihull FAQ page:

 

Will i still need to paint my boat with antifouling paint?
Painting the hull is not only for purpose of antifouling. it is also an important waterproofing barrier, protecting the gel coat from the effects (and immense cost) of osmosis. Therefore we would still recommend that the boat is protected under the water line.
 
And the retardation doesn't stop there:
 
...some yacht owners who have installed the sonihull system have opted to use a harder grade of antifouling paint, as apposed to the soft self polishing versions which have a higher drag factor through the water.
 
 
 
The high school dropout spelling and grammar errors in the quoted passages are just the icing on the cake.

To start off with I'm totally not sold on this item.  I read the same thing so we can agree to disagree on what this means FB. It is certainly poorly worded but my read is you still need to paint your hull to prevent osmosis on fiberglass hulls and as an Anti-Corrosive on steel or aluminum hulls.  That would indicate some epoxy barrier layers not AF cuz we all know that wouldn't work don't we?.  Now if you want to waste your money and buy the sonic hoopla while you already have a good anti-fouling go right ahead.



#67 FastBottoms

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 04:48 PM

 

Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

 

No, they recommend anti fouling paint as protection against blistering, which of course is complete bullshit. From the Sonihull FAQ page:

 

Will i still need to paint my boat with antifouling paint?
Painting the hull is not only for purpose of antifouling. it is also an important waterproofing barrier, protecting the gel coat from the effects (and immense cost) of osmosis. Therefore we would still recommend that the boat is protected under the water line.
 
And the retardation doesn't stop there:
 
...some yacht owners who have installed the sonihull system have opted to use a harder grade of antifouling paint, as apposed to the soft self polishing versions which have a higher drag factor through the water.
 
 
 
The high school dropout spelling and grammar errors in the quoted passages are just the icing on the cake.

To start off with I'm totally not sold on this item.  I read the same thing so we can agree to disagree on what this means FB. It is certainly poorly worded but my read is you still need to paint your hull to prevent osmosis on fiberglass hulls and as an Anti-Corrosive on steel or aluminum hulls.  That would indicate some epoxy barrier layers not AF cuz we all know that wouldn't work don't we?.  Now if you want to waste your money and buy the sonic hoopla while you already have a good anti-fouling go right ahead.

 

I don't know where you get anything about a barrier coat from the Sonihull FAQ. It is never mentioned. Further, the FAQs specifically say that anti fouling paint provides protection from blisters. I don't understand how that escapes anybody reading them.



#68 Mr. Fixit's brother,, Mr. Fixit

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 04:54 PM

 

Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

 

No, they recommend anti fouling paint as protection against blistering, which of course is complete bullshit. From the Sonihull FAQ page:

 

Will i still need to paint my boat with antifouling paint?
Painting the hull is not only for purpose of antifouling. it is also an important waterproofing barrier, protecting the gel coat from the effects (and immense cost) of osmosis. Therefore we would still recommend that the boat is protected under the water line.
 
And the retardation doesn't stop there:
 
...some yacht owners who have installed the sonihull system have opted to use a harder grade of antifouling paint, as apposed to the soft self polishing versions which have a higher drag factor through the water.
 
 
 
The high school dropout spelling and grammar errors in the quoted passages are just the icing on the cake.

To start off with I'm totally not sold on this item.  I read the same thing so we can agree to disagree on what this means FB. It is certainly poorly worded but my read is you still need to paint your hull to prevent osmosis on fiberglass hulls and as an Anti-Corrosive on steel or aluminum hulls.  That would indicate some epoxy barrier layers not AF cuz we all know that wouldn't work don't we?.  Now if you want to waste your money and buy the sonic hoopla while you already have a good anti-fouling go right ahead.

 

My Bad FB.  However poorly written that FAQ was this is straight out of the brochure "Sonihull and Oceanic are ...Antifoul products that work alongside conventional antifoul paints with additional benefits."  My apologies. 



#69 FastBottoms

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 04:59 PM

No need to apologize. Let's just agree that the makers of Sonihull have either a very flawed perception of how anti fouling paint works or they are intentionally attempting to cover their asses while peddling an ineffective product.



#70 hannibal

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Posted 12 November 2013 - 11:35 PM

Micron 66  nothing better

in water 12months,  no cleanings  just a very thin  "slime"    outstanding!



#71 Schnick

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Posted 12 November 2013 - 11:49 PM

Dash34 - I am just down the way from you and in my entire life being around sailboats I have never heard your 'dark bottoms bad' theory.  Interesting.  Of course our old theory was 'Yacht Club near CanOxy chemical plant = no growth' so I guess times change!

 

I used to do CSC Shark white on my last boat but this boat I have gone with Petit Horizons, in black, and I get much less growth than I did with CSC.  I still rub it every week anyways, and they both last about two years like that.  I would probably go white if they had it, but the Horizons is winning over the CSC for me.



#72 FastBottoms

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 12:32 AM

I have never found any particular color of a given product to have any advantage over another. They all foul the same and I have certainly never found herring to favor one over another. Not saying that isn't possible, but I've never found it to be the case.

#73 dash34

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 12:58 AM

Dash34 - I am just down the way from you and in my entire life being around sailboats I have never heard your 'dark bottoms bad' theory.  Interesting.  Of course our old theory was 'Yacht Club near CanOxy chemical plant = no growth' so I guess times change!

 

I used to do CSC Shark white on my last boat but this boat I have gone with Petit Horizons, in black, and I get much less growth than I did with CSC.  I still rub it every week anyways, and they both last about two years like that.  I would probably go white if they had it, but the Horizons is winning over the CSC for me.

There were usually a few boats in False Creek that got it every year.  Unless all the herring have died off....  I know a couple race boats that had it happen but I haven't lived over there since '94.  The theory was that herring choose dark coloured objects to attach their spawn to so they remain hidden from predators.   



#74 FastBottoms

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 01:01 AM

When the herring come in and slime a marina around here, they seem to be pretty indiscriminate about their targets.

#75 jc172528

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 09:31 PM

Micron 66  nothing better

in water 12months,  no cleanings  just a very thin  "slime"    outstanding!

 

It should be for the price.






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