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UV Protection for Carbon Sprit Pole


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#1 WHK

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 11:39 PM

I'm buying a J/109 and have the following recommendation from the survey report:

The exposed end of the retractable spinnaker sprit should be re-finished to prevent UV degradation

 

What is the recommended method to re-finish the exposed end of the sprit pole for UV protetction?



#2 Christian

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 12:20 AM

Paint

I'm buying a J/109 and have the following recommendation from the survey report:

The exposed end of the retractable spinnaker sprit should be re-finished to prevent UV degradation

 

What is the recommended method to re-finish the exposed end of the sprit pole for UV protetction?



#3 pacice

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 07:06 AM

clear coat



#4 jerryj2me

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 11:24 AM

get a cover made for it as well.



#5 Christian

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 03:45 PM

Only if the clearcoat has good UV properties.  If going clear:  Awlgrip

clear coat



#6 _Vegas_

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 03:54 PM

Awlcraft 2000 Clear is the best you can get

 

Automotive Clear Coat works very well too - like Dupont ChromaClear



#7 WHK

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 03:58 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. Since the area is small can I use a Preval sprayer or will I have to use a real paint pot and spray gun?

#8 Christian

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 11:27 PM


Thanks for the suggestions. Since the area is small can I use a Preval sprayer or will I have to use a real paint pot and spray gun?


You can even brush it on. If using Awlgrip clear it flows nicely if you use the brush thinner

#9 Tucky

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 01:53 PM

+1 on the brush- just use foam brushes and a bit of thinner and it will look fine if you are careful. Trying to clean a good brush or spray equipment is not worth it for a small job.



#10 Raked aft \\

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 02:34 PM

After you clear coat w/ awlgrip.  Put a couple coats of car wax on it.  Most have good uv protection, (look on bottle)

 

 Can't hurt...



#11 WHK

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 08:45 PM

Great - thanks for the info.  I'll be offline the next few days headed to Naptown so we can deliver the boat back to Newport.  Refinishing the sprit is on my project list now.



#12 foshizzle

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 04:39 PM

Assuming it's carbon/epoxy, you should find out if the epoxy matrix used in the sprit has UV inhibitors, or if a UV inhibited coating was used in the lay-up, in which case additional protection may not be required.  The carbon fiber is not affected by UV radiation.



#13 Christian

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 05:36 PM

That is just plainly bad advice

Assuming it's carbon/epoxy, you should find out if the epoxy matrix used in the sprit has UV inhibitors, or if a UV inhibited coating was used in the lay-up, in which case additional protection may not be required.  The carbon fiber is not affected by UV radiation.



#14 solosailor

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 05:45 PM

UV inhibitors in epoxy resin is like drinking sunblock.    The protection needs to be on the outside !    



#15 NewLeaf

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 06:37 PM

how do you remove the bad layers? sanding?



#16 Raked aft \\

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 07:31 PM

^ yup,

 

  i'd start w some 320 on an orbital hand sander.  That's what i used and was just right.  not too gritty, not too fine.  The goldey locks paper...



#17 SailAR

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 08:15 PM

Also, depending upon the tolerance, be careful to not add too much paint, or you will lots of fund getting the pole to move....



#18 Raked aft \\

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 08:37 PM

Not sure about awlgrip clear, but i used West 207 clear hardener and rolled it on with a 6" foam roller.  Did it in the garage where it was cooler than room temp, say 65.  and it came out like glass.  only in a few spots did i use a brush to tip out some small air bubbles.

 

  I only loaded the roller slightly, and ran strokes down the length, rotating the pole after the top half was coated.  Did two lighter coats, no sanding between.

  Use a good hand shop light and watch for runs on the sides/bottom after each coat, they can be easily rolled out after your done with a coat. If you keep the coats thin, you shouldn't get runs anyway.

 

 That was 2 years ago and the pole still looks great!



#19 Wet Spreaders

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 12:36 AM

Congrats on the new boat.

 

I had this issue with the pole on my J105 - hot carbon in the sun - the exposed clearcoat lifted and flaked off a 4-year new pole. I sanded the delaminated clearcoat off and sprayed with exterior gloss polyurethane in a can from Home Depot. Looks great and still going strong +2 years later - $4.95 plus half a sheet of 220 grit from the shed.

 

Or you could get all anal and fancy with bunny ass-fluff crocus leaf marine exotic polishing and two-part UV inhibiting raise-shields radiation resistant awlgrabber methylethylbadshit from the chandlers. That's guaranteed an extra 0.00001 kts off the line and critical for OD racing.



#20 BobJ

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 01:03 AM

:lol:



#21 jerryj2me

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Posted 22 October 2013 - 11:32 PM

Congrats on the new boat.

 

I had this issue with the pole on my J105 - hot carbon in the sun - the exposed clearcoat lifted and flaked off a 4-year new pole. I sanded the delaminated clearcoat off and sprayed with exterior gloss polyurethane in a can from Home Depot. Looks great and still going strong +2 years later - $4.95 plus half a sheet of 220 grit from the shed.

 

Or you could get all anal and fancy with bunny ass-fluff crocus leaf marine exotic polishing and two-part UV inhibiting raise-shields radiation resistant awlgrabber methylethylbadshit from the chandlers. That's guaranteed an extra 0.00001 kts off the line and critical for OD racing.

Nah its a 2.7 point hit on your phrf






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