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How to remove concrete like deckpaint

Paint removal stripping

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#1 fdsailor

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 06:01 PM

Hi all, I've started work on Merlin Rocket 3236 (Rowsell Omega foam sandwich NSM 1) and whilst the boat has a number of issues, the one that has me stumped is removing the thick non-slip deck paint which seems to have the consistency (and thickness) of concrete...I've tried 60 grit sanding discs on a DA sander, tungsten carbide scraper and a very small test patch using the heat gun and a scraper. Unfortunately the last one, which feels very dodgy, is the only one which seems to have worked. Problem is, the laminate ends up soft and exposed (not a problem as it's getting a full new hi-build anyway) and the foam definitely softens a bit (this is the worry), although on cooling it seems to go back to it's usual solid self with no signs of delamination or distortion. Is this crazy?



#2 Py26129

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 02:00 AM

Have you tried Easy Off oven cleaner? I have used it in the past to remove paint from fiberglass but have never tried it on anti skid. The usual disclaimers apply. They in a small inconspicuous area first........

#3 ToeCutter

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 06:10 AM

If the paint is thick enough, try a multitool with a scraper blade attachment between the paint and deck.



#4 bruno

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 02:30 PM

Better chem strip than heat

#5 Tucky

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 02:56 PM

+1 on a multitool possibly working. It has worked a treat for me sometimes. 



#6 mad

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 03:04 PM

Hi all, I've started work on Merlin Rocket 3236 (Rowsell Omega foam sandwich NSM 1) and whilst the boat has a number of issues, the one that has me stumped is removing the thick non-slip deck paint which seems to have the consistency (and thickness) of concrete...I've tried 60 grit sanding discs on a DA sander, tungsten carbide scraper and a very small test patch using the heat gun and a scraper. Unfortunately the last one, which feels very dodgy, is the only one which seems to have worked. Problem is, the laminate ends up soft and exposed (not a problem as it's getting a full new hi-build anyway) and the foam definitely softens a bit (this is the worry), although on cooling it seems to go back to it's usual solid self with no signs of delamination or distortion. Is this crazy?

 

Be very careful using heat, it may go back to solid after the heat, but chances are you may damage the resin system by subjecting it to localised heat.



#7 hobie17li

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 03:27 PM

what's the matter with 24 grit and a nice 7" grinder..Makita 2 speed

if you are careful at low speed...i put heavy grit sand in epoxy that

came out way too aggressive and had to sand it down, but not off.



#8 Raked aft \\

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 04:25 PM

How about one of those elec planers they use to take bottom gelcoat off with?

Then flatten with the 7" disc and some 80g.



#9 SloopJonB

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 07:27 PM

Have you tried Easy Off oven cleaner? I have used it in the past to remove paint from fiberglass but have never tried it on anti skid. The usual disclaimers apply. They in a small inconspicuous area first........

 

Easy Off works great on names and so forth painted with sign paint - the paint just wipes off. I doubt it will work on non-skid though.

 

I wouldn't let a grinder anywhere near the hull or deck of a boat - only sanders. A grinder can & almost certainly will fuck up a glass boat in no time. I've seen several boats trashed by people using grinders on the bottom trying to save time getting thick bottom paint off.

 

A big sander with very coarse (36 grit) disks should take any kind of non-skid off - it will work its way through solid steel, given time & enough disks.



#10 fdsailor

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 08:36 PM

Ordered some 40 grit Makita discs and will give that a shot on the DA sander. Might need the small grinder with soft pad first though, will see. Thanks for the suggestions (as a point of note, the shavings so far, about 1/4 of the area, weigh more than 1kg...mental on a 14ft boat)



#11 SloopJonB

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 01:47 AM

The way you have described it, I doubt a D/A will work - they are finishing tools and don't do "coarse" very well. You need a 7" or 8" disk sander running about 2000 RPM.

 

If by "small grinder" you are referring to a 4" or 5" angle grinder, they run way too fast - 10,000 RPM or thereabouts - to use any sort of soft pad on. It will tear apart from the centrifugal force.

 

Buy a $30 disk sander at Harbour Freight.



#12 pauloman

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 08:58 PM

sounds like epoxy or epoxy and sand mix - if so - heat and scraper.



#13 Ishmael

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 01:51 AM

pACE3-5994345t181.jpg

 

Cheap, effective, and nasty. You should be able to get it at Ace.



#14 silverp40

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 12:59 PM

Getting this or that at ACE or Harbor freight? He is in England!! :blink:

 

BTW, why are you removing this well installed nonskid?



#15 Ishmael

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 04:47 PM

Getting this or that at ACE or Harbor freight? He is in England!! :blink:

 

BTW, why are you removing this well installed nonskid?

 

My bad. Scotland, actually.



#16 dreaded

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:56 PM

get some 3m flap discs on an angle grinder...  36 - 120 grits..     will remove anything...

 

 

MMM-60070014141.jpg



#17 SloopJonB

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 12:22 AM

Getting this or that at ACE or Harbor freight? He is in England!! :blink:

 

BTW, why are you removing this well installed nonskid?

 

My bad. Scotland, actually.

 

Well it's expected, almost required that a small boat be ugly there. ;)



#18 Rex II

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 12:57 AM

get some 3m flap discs on an angle grinder...  36 - 120 grits..     will remove anything...

 

 

MMM-60070014141.jpg

+1

 

The sander will not work as the abraded material will heat up and clump the Disc very quickly.  A 7 inch Grinder turned down to a speed which will scratch off the material at a rate you can control is the solution. Plain old 36 grit followed by 80,180, 220 will get you to a very respectable result. remember though if you are recovering you will need to scratch it back to 80 to get a good bond.

 

The flappy discs above will work even better, as they are much more forgiving.

 

Also there is a purpose made tool by Wagner called the "Paint Eater" for the timid with the grinder. I own both. prefer the Grinder. 

PaintEater.jpg



#19 SloopJonB

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 01:18 AM

You can buy that type of disk to use in a 5" angle grinder. They are fabulous for stripping spars but I've never tried it on a deck or hull.



#20 Ishmael

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 02:40 AM

You can buy that type of disk to use in a 5" angle grinder. They are fabulous for stripping spars but I've never tried it on a deck or hull.

 

I have one, I used it, it worked well...but I can't remember the project...wtf did I do with that thing?



#21 Foreverslow

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 03:40 AM

You can buy that type of disk to use in a 5" angle grinder. They are fabulous for stripping spars but I've never tried it on a deck or hull.

 

I have one, I used it, it worked well...but I can't remember the project...wtf did I do with that thing?

 

 

Cocaine - Its a hell of a drug

Rick James 1948-2004



#22 Ishmael

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 05:23 AM

 

You can buy that type of disk to use in a 5" angle grinder. They are fabulous for stripping spars but I've never tried it on a deck or hull.

 

I have one, I used it, it worked well...but I can't remember the project...wtf did I do with that thing?

 

 

Cocaine - Its a hell of a drug

Rick James 1948-2004

 

I wish. Senility - I forget what it is.



#23 dreaded

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 08:50 PM

You can buy that type of disk to use in a 5" angle grinder. They are fabulous for stripping spars but I've never tried it on a deck or hull.

 

 

If you're talking about the discs on that paint eater thing,  yeah,  those discs are great on hulls where you don't mind playing with a LOT of filler..



#24 DRDNA

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 07:44 PM

an electric planer- I've done decks every way imaginable.  Removers and heat are very sketchy to fiberglass- especially cored construction and heat- the heat can exceed the bonding and distortion limits.  I stumbled upon using my planer- super fast and less dust.  Replace blades afterwards in case you use it to shape a surfboard or to plane wood.(although I do love 36 grit and a high speed grinder just for fun- it just takes longer and makes more to fair.)  



#25 Alcatraz5768

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 06:22 PM

I've done exactly this job on a previous boat. Use 36grit discs on a grinder but be careful. The sand will burn them up really fast so you will use a lot of them, but don't waste your time with a sander of any sort as it just can't cut through the sand. The key is to keep the grinder moving in small arcs all the time, so as soon as you go through the paint, you can avoid that area on the next pass. Once you get the hang of it it's easy and fast, but not fun, and it's insanely noises. Good luck.




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