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mast gooseneck bracket on CFJ, rivets


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#1 southcarolinaf150

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 07:31 PM

Hi, first post on the forum

I'm the maintenance guy for a new college club racing team. Back in November we bought 6 used CFJ's from another club, and finally got the chance to sail last weekend now that our lake is thawed.
Aside from the various little missing pins and parts, the only major damage to one of the boats was a sheared off piece of the gooseneck bracket on the mast.
I haven't really worked with rivets before so I have a few q's:
What is the best way to remove them? I assume drilling them out
How do I replace them, and what kind of tools do I need?
Attached pic for reference

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#2 cal40john

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 06:07 AM

http://www.gesipausa...ets_basics.html

 

 

If you're going to use monel or stainless steel rivets don't buy the $10 Sears pop rivet gun, get one with long handles.

 

http://www.sears.com...pe=CAT_REC_PRED



#3 European Bloke

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 09:38 AM

And make sure that you do use monel rivets and make sure you do use the required gop to stop the whole lot corroding into a horrible mess.

 

Not being funny, but you've got a bit on if you're the maintenance guy and you can't deal with a few rivets.

 

Oh, and that looks like a horrible home brew fitting.  Have you got much else like that to deal with?



#4 scowlover

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 03:34 PM

Here's the technique the pro's use for removing rivets. Choose COBALT drill bit bigger than the rivet itself. In this case, you have a 3/16" rivet. Grab a 1/4" bit and buzz the head until the head falls off of each rivet. http://www.mcmaster.com/#3069A25 A rocking motion will make it go faster and increase the life of the bit. Once the head is gone, take a 3/16" punch and punch the remaining rivet into the mast with a firm whack of a hammer. http://www.mcmaster.com/#3416A15 Replace the part. Use 3/16" stainless rivets. http://www.mcmaster.com/#97525A505 The best tool is the Big Daddy rivet gun. Once you own this, you will never let it go. An added bonus is that you can buy replacement jaws and other wear parts so you can truly own this tool forever. http://www.mcmaster.com/#90239A510 Be sure to use some silicone to seal it and create a galvanic barrier to avoid corrosion. By the time you are done with the first fitting, this task will no longer be daunting. 



#5 southcarolinaf150

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 04:44 PM

Thanks for all the extremely detailed help with this guys. Its just not a job I've done before so I want to do it right.
In reply to @European Bloke I've built 2 work boats but just never had to rivet anything. Which is kind of ironic/lucky seeing as one of my other boats is riveted aluminum. The most I've had to do with that is hammer a few tight.
Learning as I go though so thanks everybody

#6 bluelaser

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 05:48 PM

Don't bother with a hand rivet gun. Go to harbor freight and grab this:

 

http://www.harborfre...eter-93458.html

 

And an air compressor if you don't have one. We did 60 rivets in under a half hour. Eventually the jaws will wear out but for $40 you can't go wrong(and a good snap-on air riveter will wear the jaws out just as quickly). DO NOT LOOK AT THE BACK OF THE RIVET GUN WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER! Good way to hit yourself in the eye with the rivet shank.

 

 

 

Oh, and that looks like a horrible home brew fitting.  Have you got much else like that to deal with?

 

That's the Factory laserperformance fitting that Raceline builds. Really special stuff. /sarcasm



#7 BobBill

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 07:13 AM

Two questions. Most of us have a short handled gun, why not lengthen handle with pipe pieces?

 

Why not Monel, if a mast, it is likely AL, and Monel is non-reactive, isn't it, if that makes a diff over time?



#8 Dex Sawash

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 09:07 PM

Aluminum drive rivets. Only need a hammer. Great for shear loads.
http://www.hansonriv...rive-rivets.htm

#9 BobBill

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 10:40 PM

True, Dex, but not always practical...need clear shot to strike or appropriate countersink drive, if cramped space and metal thickness matters.



#10 david r

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 06:55 PM

If the rivet spins when you try to drill the head off, a mallet/wood chisel will cut the head right off.   Also it saves some time. Assuming you have an old wood chisel that you can sharpen up with a grinder.

aluminum rivets won't last long on a gooseneck.  the loads come from a variety of directions.



#11 Poodle Head Mikey

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 07:21 PM

Dex?  

 

Do you know anything about A/C or refrigeration?

 

PHM
-------



#12 Dex Sawash

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 08:25 PM

Just automotive, a little theory bleeds to other applications. I'm a car fixer person in real life, AKA mechanic.

#13 BobBill

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 08:31 AM

So, you drilled out rivets had new bracket welded on the plate, now what, back on with rivets, screws or ?



#14 WarBird

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 01:02 PM

I will be fitting out a complete.mast.soon. I had assumed I ll use stainless rivets. Monell? Strong enough? Silicone or lanolin or Tef gel? Won't the rivet squeeze it out mostly?

#15 European Bloke

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 09:14 AM

Monel.  Tef gel.



#16 WarBird

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 01:47 PM


Monel.  Tef gel.


It seems spar makers use stainless. Why?

#17 European Bloke

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 08:56 AM


Monel.  Tef gel.


It seems spar makers use stainless. Why?

My mast guy always uses monel, and always sells me monel.  Perhaps I'm just a mug.



#18 bluelaser

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 05:45 PM

Stainless is technically a harder metal so in theory it's stronger with stainless. But in reality it's just cheaper with stainless.



#19 WarBird

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 06:45 PM



Monel.  Tef gel.

It seems spar makers use stainless. Why?
My mast guy always uses monel, and always sells me monel.  Perhaps I'm just a mug.
I am listening. Much of the stuff on a mast doesn't need the extra strength of stainless. T ball inserts for example. But they are stainless anyway. So monel rivets and a coat.of tef gel.?

#20 European Bloke

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 08:56 AM

Always worked for me. There are obviously varying grades of stainless, so it’s probably not cut and dried.  In reality most problems I’ve seen have been down to; -Failure to use something to isolate the dissimilar materials. -Fucking sloppy fitting positioning.  Some of the shit people try is never going to work no matter what type of fastener is used.  It was especially bad when we started to use carbon, some of the goons didn’t seem to have any common sense, and I’m talking big reputable spar producers.

#21 BobBill

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 10:48 AM

I may be way off here, but seems to me most makers today use alum pop rivets with AL masts, at least with dinghies...Mr Ensign and some others, as I recall, did not have but AL on the mast. I added some tracks etc using stainless, however. Seemed fine at the time.






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