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#1 sully75

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 01:22 PM

Thought I'd share a couple of things that have been amazing for my refit this spring.  I've been working with boats for a while but somehow missed this stuff.

 

1) Pastry bags for epoxy.  I saw this on offcenterharbor.com (which itself has been pretty great for a few things).  Mix thickened epoxy, stuff it into the bag, cut the tip off and you can squeeze and control it very easily.   If you cut the tip small, you can jam it in holes and get the epoxy pretty deep.  Much cheaper and easier than syringes.  Only issue is that I can feel it heating up in my hand, I could see cooking a whole batch real quick if it were warmer but so far no issues.  8 cents a bag, not too bad.

 

http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

2) Had some CVS gloves that worked ok but acetone disintegrated them.  These are what we use at work (hospital).  I haven't tried them against acetone, but I got PB blaster all over them and none of it got onto my hands.  I think they will be a lot better.  Plus the target/CVS gloves are "one size fits most" which really means, fits most women.  These are a bit more expensive but much better.

 

http://www.amazon.co...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

3) These trauma shears are awesome.  I've bought many pairs for work and when they get nastied up I move them onto my tool bag.  They are coated in flouride which supposedly makes tape not stick to them.  I haven't really found that to be an issue at work but I notice that they are really easy to clean and even if they get munged up with epoxy you can still break them loose.  They cut glass really well.  This brand is way, way better than any other brand I've seen/tried.  I usually order 2-3 pairs at a time.  They are just great scissors in general.

 

http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

4) Ryobi cordless tools have been pretty great.  I got a good deal on a drill/sawzall set on slickdeals.net.  The drill chuck sorta sucks.  Otherwise, they've been awesome.  The sawzall is great.  I've had really great luck with the circular saw too.  It definitely eats the batteries, but it's great not to have to use a cord.  It's cut through lots of 3/4 inch plywood without fail.  The angle grinder is pretty handy (I ended up getting a corded version though because that one really does chew up batteries).  

 

They have a 12v charger which I bought but haven't really tried yet.

 

The best thing so far though is the impact driver.  I'd never used one before.  I had some bad luck with stainless bolts this spring, stripping out the heads and then wasting time drilling them out.  The impact driver is pretty amazing, even with the ? of wrong size phillips bit, it will back out almost anything.  A set of vice grips on the nut makes getting bolts out a one person job.  Pretty amazing.  

 

That's all I got.  Thought it might make a worthwhile thread if people had other suggestions.

 

 



#2 Alcatraz5768

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 08:48 AM

Thanks, I like good tips. I once used caulking tubes that came empty for epoxy. They were awesome for forcing goo into areas.

#3 Jim Conlin

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 06:08 PM

I use 6" x 6" x 4 mil zip bags for tubing bog.

I mix the epoxy in the bag, then add the filler and mix again.  If it's warm, gloves to avoid warming the googe.

To dispense, cut the corner off the bag.



#4 Remodel

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Posted 23 May 2014 - 08:47 PM

I thought this was going to be thread about a guy that installed his portable AC unit in hatch above the head.



#5 thereefgeek

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Posted 25 May 2014 - 01:35 PM

The "cool shit" tool I probably go-to the most for boat work is my Multimaster.  If you don't have one (or one like it), get one cause they kick ass.  Sanding, scraping, cutting… it does it all.

 

Another "cool shit" item to have is one of those belt sander cleaners from the woodworking store.

http://www.rockler.com/abrasive-cleaning-stick 

I use it on all my abrasive power tools and it probably quadruples (or more) the life of those expensive little velcro-backed sanding pads.  $7-$8 worth of rubber saves hundreds in sand paper.

 

 

Attached File  IMG_3152.jpg   134.22K   18 downloads



#6 MoMP

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Posted 25 May 2014 - 09:35 PM

White vinegar works really well to clean up epoxy off of hands and everywhere else you don't want it.

#7 olaf hart

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Posted 26 May 2014 - 08:22 AM

Sharp cabinet scrapers not sandpaper to smooth epoxy

#8 Py26129

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Posted 26 May 2014 - 08:09 PM

The "cool shit" tool I probably go-to the most for boat work is my Multimaster.  If you don't have one (or one like it), get one cause they kick ass.  Sanding, scraping, cutting… it does it all.

 

Another "cool shit" item to have is one of those belt sander cleaners from the woodworking store.

http://www.rockler.com/abrasive-cleaning-stick 

I use it on all my abrasive power tools and it probably quadruples (or more) the life of those expensive little velcro-backed sanding pads.  $7-$8 worth of rubber saves hundreds in sand paper.

 

 

attachicon.gifIMG_3152.jpg

+1 on the multimaster or quivalent.  Mine, very quickly went from "why the hell would I want one" and became the most used tool in the toolkit.



#9 haligonian winterr

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 12:28 AM

Not so much a tool thing, but discovered a "cool shit" trick today.

 

While splicing thimbles into a modified brummel, you can get the thimble tighter in the eye, if you use strong whipping twine instead of a spike/fid.

 

Just thought I could contribute...

 

HW



#10 ianabc

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 01:11 AM

 
Vinegar or any solvent will encourage epoxy to migrate thru the skin
 
into the circulatory system !


#11 rmb

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 01:22 AM

pinstripe removal wheels for cleaning old sika or silicone off.



#12 sully75

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 02:54 AM

do you have any evidence for that?  Seems pretty unlikely.  

 

 

 
Vinegar or any solvent will encourage epoxy to migrate thru the skin
 
into the circulatory system !


#13 sully75

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 02:57 AM

I've been making a lot of backing blocks lately, don't have a table saw.  I've been clamping a long straight edge (I think it's a mason's straight edge from home depot?) to the plywood, adding an inch and using it as a guide for my circular saw.  Seems pretty simple but I never tried it before.  Cuts damn straight.  Not like using a table saw but I can jump down and do a very nice rip in the parking lot where my boat is.



#14 Bump-n-Grind

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 05:34 AM

do you have any evidence for that?  Seems pretty unlikely.  

 

 

 

 
Vinegar or any solvent will encourage epoxy to migrate thru the skin
 
into the circulatory system !

seems to be a lot of other folks using vinager



#15 hard aground

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 01:45 PM

I've been making a lot of backing blocks lately, don't have a table saw.  I've been clamping a long straight edge (I think it's a mason's straight edge from home depot?) to the plywood, adding an inch and using it as a guide for my circular saw.  Seems pretty simple but I never tried it before.  Cuts damn straight.  Not like using a table saw but I can jump down and do a very nice rip in the parking lot where my boat is.

That sir, is a very inexpensive track saw.



#16 sully75

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 05:23 PM

Not familiar with track saws. That alumni ruler has been awesome though.

Wish there was a trick for using it to rip stuff less than an inch.

#17 phillysailor

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Posted 04 June 2014 - 01:34 AM

Saws: EurekaZone track saw system has made my table saw obsolete. Zipped out 6 bulkheads yesterday in two hours, can rip 14 ft 3/4" chine rails leaving 1/2" as remnant. Fingers nowhere near the blade, everything clamped tight. No kickback. Cheap blades create nice cuts. The track also supports routers, so makes the Porter Cable monster easily controlled.

 

WorkSharp for hand planes and chisels. Turn rusted useless tools and semi-sharp frustration into PERFECT blades in several minutes. No soaking, no leveling your stones… just buy new sandpaper disks. I'm now curling off 4-5 foot curls of millimeter thick pine. Sweet.

 

Kreg pocket screw jigs. Easy, fast and strong joints.

 

Homemade air filter: Three 1x16x20" furnace filters in a box with a bathroom exhaust fan + timer switch. Works. Cheap.

 

PTAC unit. Hot? Cold? Out there working & comfortable.

 

Plywood floor over foam board insulation. Warm, dry, so much more comfortable than concrete.



#18 BobBill

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 02:46 PM

White vinegar works really well to clean up epoxy off of hands and everywhere else you don't want it.

+1 and it seems not readily absorbed by skin...ianabc may be right, but I am sure vinegar is better than acetone etc. Interesting point, in any case. I use either vinegar or iso alcohol...



#19 SloopJonB

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 04:34 PM

Acetone is pretty benign - toxicity is very low compared to other solvents (look it up). It is actually produced by our bodies.

 

That said, it's pretty useless with epoxy - vinegar is better.



#20 BobBill

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 05:12 PM

Interesting. Not disagreeing...but I use acetone to smooth ferrules on golf club shaft/hosels...stuff softens plastic and epoxy readily...and seems strong, but what do I know?



#21 sully75

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 03:11 PM

That's crazy...I just read that about Acetone.  I was always told that it would shrink your balls and make you go blind.  Vinegar though is amazing for epoxy regardless.

 

The old guys in the yard I used to work at used to talk about basically bathing in acetone at the end of the day.  Regardless of other risks, I'm sure that makes your skin a little tough after a while.



#22 BobBill

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 03:19 PM

Sully, good one...makes it sore too and my test is this, if you would wipe it on Sweeney, not to worry! If I see a warning, I heed it.



#23 Soley

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 07:35 PM

That's crazy...I just read that about Acetone.  I was always told that it would shrink your balls and make you go blind.  Vinegar though is amazing for epoxy regardless.

 

The old guys in the yard I used to work at used to talk about basically bathing in acetone at the end of the day.  Regardless of other risks, I'm sure that makes your skin a little tough after a while.

 

That was my impression as well.

It is too good at its job to not be bad for you, or so I thought....

Makes me less concerned about washing my hands in the stuff.



#24 SloopJonB

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 08:08 PM

Glad I could help. We geezers do learn a few things along the way. ^_^



#25 BobBill

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 09:08 PM

Sloop to be clear, stuff is not a bad? I mean, it does melt stuff?



#26 SloopJonB

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 12:13 AM

So does Coke, vinegar, lemon juice etc. etc.

 

I wouldn't bathe in it but I treat it much like methyl alcohol - requires moderation and a modicum of care but.....

 

If our bodies create the stuff internally, even as a byproduct, how bad can it be? Read up on it if you're unsure. It's definitely not in the same league as MEK, lacquer thinner, toluene and other solvents.



#27 miscut jib

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 12:22 AM

bad enough to get you light headed and give you headaches? And be bad for continual exposure? in the workplace it always had more care than the alcohols. No, it's not a really nasty solvent but that's not the point. me, I'm trying to minimize exposure to most things and diluted acetic acid (vinegar) is a bit more benign.



#28 dacarls

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 12:42 AM

 
Vinegar or any solvent will encourage epoxy to migrate thru the skin into the circulatory system !

Water + acetic acid (vinegar) is useful to remove unpolymerized epoxy from skin.   Better than organic solvent. Orange oil- Goop and thick soap works great to dissolve unpolymerized epoxy- by then rubbing it off on paper- before washing up..

I don't like to dissolve epoxy in organic solvent. paint thinner or lacquer thinner-  and rub it all over my skin, as in the above complaint. .( Methanol is toxic). tho ethanol or isopropyl alcohol work ok.

I am an old Organic chemist and not dead yet. 

 

But, some of my scientist colleagues who used benzene and toluene back in the day are. Dead.

Yet, I know many old Boat builders from the polyester/ fiberglass days. These fiberglass-filled lung guys live a LONG TIME. I too was rubbing acetone all over my hands  to remove polyester in 1955..still here.



#29 woodtick

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 04:50 AM

Please be carefull with mek, it can be really bad.

#30 BobBill

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 08:36 AM

Much obliged...I switched from acetone to alcohol and worried, now not so worried.



#31 SloopJonB

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 07:23 PM

Please be carefull with mek, it can be really bad.

 

AFAIK Toluene & MEK are the worst of the common solvents - they WILL rot your brain. Toluene is the solvent in model airplane glue and look what happens to glue sniffers. I understand that MEK attacks the central nervous system and is a carcinogen.

 

I always wear chemical proof gloves and only use them outdoors (when I have to). If I was using them a lot - like in a professional environment - I'd wear an organic vapour respirator.

 

For getting epoxy off your skin, try scrubbing with a loofah and dishwashing liquid. Abrasive hand cleaners work pretty well too. Keeping lots of disposable gloves around at all times is the best plan though. I used 5 boxes of them when I recored the deck of a 43'.



#32 BobBill

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 07:45 PM

Alcohol?



#33 SloopJonB

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 11:39 PM

Alcohol?

 

I thought everyone knew the effects of alcohol. ;)  Don't drink methyl - it's poisonous but otherwise........



#34 woodtick

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 12:52 PM

We had to use mek for epoxy grouting machine bases in a pulp mill. At that time there were also companies specializing in epoxy injection for crack repair to concrete beams and columns. A fair ammount of guys built a tolerance level to mek and had to quit. We could not find gloves that would last more than a few mins before disentigrating. This isn't clean work, meaning there was a lot of solvent used to clean tools and whatever we were grouting. Nasty stuff in pulp mills all around, this was 30 years ago...

#35 tikipete

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 01:12 PM

Sharp cabinet scrapers not sandpaper to smooth epoxy

DING!DING!DING!DING!



#36 BobBill

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 01:36 PM

I have a small can of MEK. I do not have any idea why I bought it, but how do I (environmentally) dump it...I do not want to have it around and do not use it.



#37 BobBill

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 01:56 PM

Sloop...geez, without alcohol I wonder if I would be sailing...? : o)



#38 BobBill

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 02:18 PM

Sharp cabinet scrapers not sandpaper to smooth epoxy

DING!DING!DING!DING!

Tikipete, I need help...



#39 SloopJonB

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 03:57 PM

I have a small can of MEK. I do not have any idea why I bought it, but how do I (environmentally) dump it...I do not want to have it around and do not use it.

 

Virtually the only think I now use MEK for is cleaning vinyl - rub rail inserts, coated lifelines, winch handle holders etc. It is magical on them. It is so potent that even wiping with a damp cloth will temporarily soften the vinyl. This attribute means you can smooth out nicks & dings to a large extent. After it evaporates, everything hardens right up and you can wipe it with Armour All or similar.

 

It does an amazing job of restoring old streaked & dinged rub rails - even does a more than fair job of cleaning up sunburn on them.

 

Other than that I avoid the stuff except as a last resort..



#40 BobBill

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 04:37 PM

I have some chair leg slides that are plastic and separate. Next time might try MEK on the plastic and join. In meantime, will ask county if they will take...Much thanks.

 

I have a slick contribution as thanks for here but have to wait til it springs back in head.



#41 sully75

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Posted 12 June 2014 - 10:53 AM

Maybe it goes without saying...but MaineSail's Pbase page is pretty amazing.  I've gotten more info from there about things I needed to do this spring than anywhere else.

 

http://www.pbase.com...g/boat_projects



#42 Alcatraz5768

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 07:22 PM

I just remembered a trick I used about 10 years ago. I did a small repair on my boat and needed to spray the final coat of gloss, but the boat was still in the slip and no compressors are allowed. So I went to my local auto paint shop with my awlgrip and mixed it up at the shop and had them put it in an aerosol can for me, even though they thought it was a weird idea. I then hotfooted it down to the already masked boat and "sprayed" the final coat. Not a great shelf life though.

#43 SloopJonB

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Posted 11 July 2014 - 01:21 AM

These things are the best for prepping spars for paint.

 

Attached File  014 (800x600).jpg   349.26K   4 downloads

 

Use them in a small angle grinder and all the corrosion, old paint, caulking etc. etc. gets cleaned right off. Scrubbing with Scotchbrite is the only further prep needed before a solvent wipe and coating.

 

You can get them in auto body supply places. They are intended for stripping paint off cars.



#44 BobBill

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Posted 11 July 2014 - 11:37 AM

I have some chair leg slides that are plastic and separate. Next time might try MEK on the plastic and join. In meantime, will ask county if they will take...Much thanks.

 

I have a slick contribution as thanks for here but have to wait til it springs back in head.

MEK did not work...will try G-Flex now...and report. I believe now I am trying to glue plastic to Bakelite...may not be compatible.



#45 sully75

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Posted 11 July 2014 - 11:51 AM

I reiterate: if you are not using a cordless impact driver with a set of ratchets and a decent set of driver bits, you are throwing your life away.  That thing is amazing.  

 

This goes on sale pretty regularly:

http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B00AD7P22Q

 

Just bought the little one+ vaccuum which is pretty handy too.



#46 BobBill

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 11:34 PM

FWIW, I remembered my "slick thing," which may be not new to others...

 

I often mess with making rudders and centerboards out of laminated mahogany and hand sand to shape...so, before I add a glass/epoxy sheath (I do not bag)

 

I take a propane torch and sear the wood areas to be sanded to char, and repeat as needed, then sand it off with an appropriate machine or long-board.

 

The charred wood is easily taken down when it is char...carefully charred, I might add.



#47 thereefgeek

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 01:15 PM

Rolling fabric cutter.  Not sure where I got this thing, but I recently discovered how cool it is.  It's some sort of multi-tool gadget with a bunch of useless bullshit features.  It's pretty much sat in my tool chest for an eternity until the other day when I used it for cutting glass mat and cloth for a little boat project.  The roller is RAZOR sharp and cuts through fiberglass like butter.  Looks like you can get the real deal from any crafty crap store like Joann's of Michael's: http://www.joann.com...mm/1993575.html

 

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#48 SloopJonB

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 02:04 PM

FWIW, I remembered my "slick thing," which may be not new to others...

 

I often mess with making rudders and centerboards out of laminated mahogany and hand sand to shape...so, before I add a glass/epoxy sheath (I do not bag)

 

I take a propane torch and sear the wood areas to be sanded to char, and repeat as needed, then sand it off with an appropriate machine or long-board.

 

The charred wood is easily taken down when it is char...carefully charred, I might add.

 

Wouldn't it be easier & safer to just use a power plane?

 

Or a hand plane for that matter?



#49 BobBill

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 02:19 PM

SloopJonB, Perhaps!

 

I am sure for some who have one, it might be easier, they have tender touch than I.  Heck a belt sander would work also.

 

I do not have one. However, I rented a power planer, and botched the job...could not reduce enough and over-planed one edge and poof...new beginning.

 

I just do not have one now and have acclimated to the orbital disk thingy...maybe I should retry planing???

 

Was just my forgotten and limited contribution.



#50 IStream

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 03:49 PM

FWIW, I remembered my "slick thing," which may be not new to others...

 

I often mess with making rudders and centerboards out of laminated mahogany and hand sand to shape...so, before I add a glass/epoxy sheath (I do not bag)

 

I take a propane torch and sear the wood areas to be sanded to char, and repeat as needed, then sand it off with an appropriate machine or long-board.

 

The charred wood is easily taken down when it is char...carefully charred, I might add.

If I tried that, it'd go like this:

 

Beaker_muppet_fire-custom-size-310-238.j



#51 BobBill

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 05:23 PM

Happens to me a lot...

 

I remembered my problem with the planer...I tried to shave to a standard wing ration and could not angle the planer as I wanted and ended up cutting too much...duh on me!



#52 Alcatraz5768

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 09:13 AM

Another trick with a propane torch, is to sand the edge of acrylic down to about 150grit then run the propane torch over the edge to make it smooth.

#53 jerryj2me

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 07:51 PM

I have a small can of MEK. I do not have any idea why I bought it, but how do I (environmentally) dump it...I do not want to have it around and do not use it.

In many areas, the Fire Departments will take and deal with Hazmat materials free of charge and queestion.

Good place to ditch all the old flares too.



#54 BobBill

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 08:03 PM

If you have a recycling facility close by, might be county, call them and ask.

 

I have had several sealed tubes of poly hardener (MEC) for years as well as a can of the solvent type, as you, and the county will take it, but I am really not sure they know what the stuff is and what to do with it, and forget to call, so I sit on it...I have to call them and check...



#55 SloopJonB

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 01:23 AM

Poly catalyst is MEKP, Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide while the solvent MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone.

 

They are quite different.



#56 thereefgeek

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 01:21 PM

Grabit screw extractor set for removing stripped out Phillips Head screws.  One end for drilling out a hole in the head, flip it around and use the tapered extractor to spin the screw out.  Pulled off my teak decks this season and removed hundreds (if not thousands) of stainless steel screws in the process.  Many of them had f'd up phillips slots and wouldn't come out.  This thing made quick and easy work out of a shitty task.

 

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#57 BobBill

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 02:00 PM

Grabit screw extractor set for removing stripped out Phillips Head screws.  One end for drilling out a hole in the head, flip it around and use the tapered extractor to spin the screw out.  Pulled off my teak decks this season and removed hundreds (if not thousands) of stainless steel screws in the process.  Many of them had f'd up phillips slots and wouldn't come out.  This thing made quick and easy work out of a shitty task.

That is a good thingy.



#58 miscut jib

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 10:08 PM

I have a small can of MEK. I do not have any idea why I bought it, but how do I (environmentally) dump it...I do not want to have it around and do not use it.

 
Household Hazardous Waste Disposal or Collection google your county/city. Unsure of where in SE MN, but a number of counties have things this month or next, summer's the time to get rid of it. They'll take many things - fuel, flares, solvents, junky glues, epoxies, old paint, pesticides, etc. etc. for free ime.



#59 BobBill

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 11:20 PM

I have a small can of MEK. I do not have any idea why I bought it, but how do I (environmentally) dump it...I do not want to have it around and do not use it.

 
Household Hazardous Waste Disposal or Collection google your county/city. Unsure of where in SE MN, but a number of counties have things this month or next, summer's the time to get rid of it. They'll take many things - fuel, flares, solvents, junky glues, epoxies, old paint, pesticides, etc. etc. for free ime.

I thank you...am accumulating a box of items our recycling facility...



#60 BobBill

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 06:17 PM

By the way, any all'y'all want some hardener, still in sealed plastic tubes, speak up...I have a few left, PM might be best, so as not to clutter up this thread.






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