201 replies to this topic

[sailingkid]

Yeah i thought of that, but ive got an old 29er top mast that i already have so ill use that.

[sailingkid]

Ive got the stainless steel for the bowsprit bracket, but because the hull is kinda dodgy there i think ill put a tab on the top of it to bolt it into some solid timber. Also i think ill have to put some horizonal chainplates(just forward of the regular ones) on it to hold the bowsprit. Im starting to think i wont need twin traps, becuase well probably just sail it when its under 12 knots anyway.

[sailingkid]

Today i started on the bowsprit braket, as well as trying out weather the 29er sails fit on the cherub mast, which they do.

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[cherub_sailorgirl]

For interest's sake, my crew and I currently have in our possession Cherub 2999 formally known as 'Beam Me Up'. I believe she won a few regattas in her time. She is an O'Mahony mark 2 hull, but has been professionally converted to carry an asymmetric.

Thought some of you might be interested to add her to the list of old-school cherubs owned by people here.

Anyway, we are in the process of restoring her to her former glory. She has been rather 'unloved' for a while it seems and we picked her up cheap because of this. Yesterday we ripped all the grip off her and discovered about four layers of old paint - no wonder she is so heavy! It seems that instead of stripping her back and repainting her, it has just been painted over. We also discovered some cracks in the seat sides, so I'm glad we took the grip off before they got any worse.

These are pictures of how she looked when we bought her.

Sailingkid - good luck with the restoration! That looks like a nice boat you've got there.

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[sailingkid]

Thanks, your boat looks good to. I spent all day yesterday going to hardware shops trying to find some sort of anadode thing for the welder, and we still havent found it, so i havent been able to do much to the boat over the holidays.

[3.7 385]

http://www.javelins....Conversion.html

This article from the Javelin website might be useful re attaching a prod / converting to assy..

In my experience windsurfing top sections are way too bendy for prods.... we put one on the Jav and first time we had the gennaker up in 10kts of breeze the tip was about 50cm off centreline!!

;-D

[sailingkid]

Thanks for that 3.7 385, I spent 2 hours on the angle grinder yesterday trying to get the bowsprit triangles the same size, which i did eventually.

[sailingkid]

We spent 2 days over the weekend welding and grinding(until the 6 year old $30 angle grinder blew up, then we had to go buy a new one) and we have made the bowsprit bracket, as well as a block of timber to mount it to inside the hull. These are the things that have been slowing us down for a while so hopefully ill be able to do some more, although we do have to fill in that little hole in the front, as well as a soft spot further back, before we can paint it and acctually fit the bracket. Im thinking about painting it bright orange because apparently it separates water molocules faster.We put the tube around the bracket for more surface area to weld it to, so that it doesn't snap. (it will have guide wires holding the pole) Here are some pics:

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[sailingkid]

It doesent look like anyone is reading my thread anymore

[milkybar kid]

im reading your thread im just too lazy to say any thing

so i guess nows my chance, if you want to really turbo this thing, you will want a spinnaker bigger than a 29er kite, and make it mast head. like f15 or b14.

[nick125]

im also reading the thread. the 29er kite is tiny. you definently want bigger than that.

[RobS]

Probably worth sticking with the 29er kite and a single trap until you have ironed out bugs in rebuild, then going for a bigger kite and 2nd trap

[nick125]

nah big kites are the shit.

[sailingkid]

Where would i get one if these massive kites then?
Maybe one of those massive ones you see on ebay for $50 occasionally.

[milkybar kid]

well you could start by asking the people on here, ive got a doonah you could have.
btw nick go on msn
also why have one trap, when you can have 2?

[sailingkid]

well you could start by asking the people on here, ive got a doonah you could have.
btw nick go on msn
also why have one trap, when you can have 2?

Thats what I thought! Ill proabably start with 1 because with two i would need lowers im told.

[nick125]

james what are you sailing this sun? ditch emma and sail 2 strings with me man.

[Ross_Cherub]

For serious speed you want small sails in big breeze.

[ravings]

When we first tried twin wires & assym, they were a joke, an old hull won't cut it, in the slightest

If anyone knows what happened to 2618 "Hysteria", a Forman 8, give me a PM

[sailingkid]

Yeah and i probably won't be sailing this boat in heaps of wind anyway, and 1 trap should be enough to start with and ill see if I need another.

[sailingkid]

Ive spent a fair bit of time over the weekend fixing more of the boat. We got the bowsprit braket attched to the boat(see pic), even though were gunna have to take it off when we paint the boat, we also put a new hunk of tasmainian oak inside the boat to hold the braket in there, i epoxyed in the bulkhead that is a bit warped, and i probably just used a little bit much epoxy(see pic) i also filled in the hole where all the ants were , as well as other holes in the boat( see pics)

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[sailingkid]

Today I spent a couple of hours making templates then cutting out the ply, which we then stuck inside the whole in the hull, with about 1 inch showing all the way around it. Now in 48 hours once the glue dries we can start to glue another piece of ply to the peices we put in today to make the new peice of hull, although i can't see that happening until the school holidays. I also sanded the fibreglass off the centreboard, until i figured out that it acctually held all the peices of wood that the centreboard is made out of together , and i could lift the top of one peice and it would move nearly all the way down the board, which is a fair way on this centreoard because its so big.

[sailingkid]

Tonight I made the template to put on the ply to fill in the hole in the front. I tried to make it out of cardboard first, then that was to thick so in the end i made it out of 2 sheets of A3 paper duct taped together. I then stuck it to the cardboard, cut it out, then traced it onto the ply. I would of cut it out to but apparently it was to late to use the jigsaw....

[sailingkid]

I just cut out the ply to fill in that hole, and i think i can make it fit, but it won't bend enough. I think i might have to steam it or something to make it fit.

[sailingkid]

Does anyone know how to soften/bend marine ply? We didn't steam it because it probably would of warped.

[sailingkid]

Today I glued the peices of the centreboard back together because i still don't know how to shape marine ply. Can someone please tell me or i might just start up a thread asking that question because not to many people read this one.

[sailingkid]

Ive got the hole in the boat filled, although ill have to take i apart once the ply dries to glue it down and sand it back so it acctually fits. Sorry the pic is so small but i don't have the software i used to use to resize pictures. Also when i glued the centreboard back together it glues slightly crooked so im gunna have to have a go at it with the belt sander to make it less like a rudder and so it will acctually fit down the case.

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[sailingkid]

Over the last 2 weekends I have been filling in the hole permanetly. Last week we glued and nailed that peice of wood into the boat. But there were some gaps around the edge, so today i filled them in using that same plastic bog stuff that stinks i used to fill in those other holes. The first batch i made probably had a bit much harderer in it because it went rock solid after like 2 mins. So i made another batch, and finished that off. Now i need to put a layer of that fibreglass cloth over it and the other areas on the hull where i used that bog stuff, then i will be able to paint it. I'm still trying to figure out what colours i should paint it, and what i should name it. With the colours i was thinking about painting it like a container ship with black above the water and red below, but that will look heavy as. Another idea was to paint it like the kingfisher open 60, exept with the majority of it blue, and the top part yellow. If anyone has any ideas for names or paint schemes that will look good post them here!

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[sailingkid]

Any ideas?

[sailingkid]

Today we were fixing my 29er because of a fairly substantial and annoying leak its had ( turns out there way a hole in the front of the centreboard case) And at the same time we glassed up a fair bit of the cherub. Later on we might do the rest of itm then i need to find a tiny venturi that i dont know if they make anymore, then i'll be able to paint it.

[PKGB]

sailingkid,
I just wanted to add some encouragement to you as I see no one has posted in awhile.
This project is awesome and you deserve big props for keeping on working this hard.
Keep it up, cant wait to see it sail!

-PKGB

[jfunk]

Yea keep going youngster, I can see you are picking up some skills that will benefit your sailing throughout your life.

[JimC]

then i need to find a tiny venturi that i dont know if they make anymore, then i'll be able to paint it.

You mean self bailer? I wouldn't bother with a tiny one: trust me on this. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to pick up an Andersen Super Max (which is the old Elvstrom type) in Aus, but they are pretty expensive. If you can get one off a scrap boat and then buy a repair kit it might be cheaper.

[sailingkid]

Since you're all so interested, here are some photos. Jim since the boat has 1 working bailer, should i just fill in the hole in the one thats broken? I think its been plugged up before, but i think it could be done better seeing as the plug is about cm in from the hull. How should i go about doing this?

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[Boats13]

Bump, for Jim to answer....

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[sailingkid]

Waiting for Jim.....

[Toolbox]

why not make your own vent.

A tube cut on an angle with a two small shaped risers and a bottom.

Or better ask your mates and see if anyone has an old but useable one.

how bad is the vent your taking out. a smal drip is nothing to worry about if your only going to take the boat out on nice days.

TB

why not make your own vent.

A tube cut on an angle with a two small shaped risers and a bottom.

Or better ask your mates and see if anyone has an old but useable one.

how bad is the vent your taking out. a smal drip is nothing to worry about if your only going to take the boat out on nice days.

TB

P.S. Great to see the project getting along.

[sailingkid]

The drain im gunna have to take out is probably about 2 inches by 1 inch (sorry but its easier then talking in cm) I think i might be able to make a wooden plug, but in a couple of weeks ill go to the yacht shop and see if they have one, becuase maybe they still make ones this size for things like sabots. It looks like its gunna be 25+knots here on the weekend so there might not be any sailing, so i might get some sanding done, then mark out the painting lines. I'm not sure if ive mentioned it here before but ive decided i want to paint it red and white like the car on Starsky and Hutch because it suits the era.

[Toolbox]

Look for someone with some of old riley stock they may be the thing your looking for most of the old sabots seamed to come standard with them.

TB.

[sailingkid]

Ok, next week ill ask at the yachtshop.

[Liquid]

Since you're all so interested, here are some photos. Jim since the boat has 1 working bailer, should i just fill in the hole in the one thats broken? I think its been plugged up before, but i think it could be done better seeing as the plug is about cm in from the hull. How should i go about doing this?

Taping off the work area and using peel ply are you friends!

[sailingkid]

OK, i'm not sure what peel ply is, but if i can't find one i might have to find out.

[Liquid]

OK, i'm not sure what peel ply is, but if i can't find one i might have to find out.

Peel ply sucks up excess resign to help achieve a better resign ratio and leaves a smoother finished surface.

"Peel Ply: A sacrificial nylon, polyester or non-porous Teflon ply that is placed over the outer plies of a laminate during lay-up. When the resin has cured the peel ply is removed. The results are a smooth surface that is easily prepared for subsequent bonding or painting."

When I worked on my 14 last winter, I would lay up the carbon - then peel ply - then breather fabric - then some weight (bags of lead shot that I had taken out of the boat worked wonderfully). Let cure then peel the ply and breather right off for a vacuum bag like finish.

"Breather: A loosely woven or nonwoven material that does not come in contact with the resin (directly)."

Breather also takes up the excess resign if/when the peel ply gets saturated. It also allows you to put weight and/or tape around the area without causing a huge mess.

Both of these fabrics can be bought in a fabric store for very short dollars. Just make sure to test the nylon/peel ply fabric's ability to peel on a test piece.

[sailingkid]

Ok, i learnt something. I still think it would be easier to find the right drain.

In other news, ive got a new number 1 name for the boat that i noticed i one of vegas's posts. Hot Nasty Speed Enraged Ass Kicking Swan, which is kind of ironic becuase a swan like this is what sunk my RC yacht 15 seconds into its first sail.(we got the boat back)

If i was to go out and sand the fibreglass back will i need anything more then one of those paper dust masks? Its 44C and gusting to 40 knots so there was no racing.

[Boats13]

Ok, i learnt something. I still think it would be easier to find the right drain.

In other news, ive got a new number 1 name for the boat that i noticed i one of vegas's posts. Hot Nasty Speed Enraged Ass Kicking Swan, which is kind of ironic becuase a swan like this is what sunk my RC yacht 15 seconds into its first sail.(we got the boat back)

If i was to go out and sand the fibreglass back will i need anything more then one of those paper dust masks? Its 44C and gusting to 40 knots so there was no racing.

Aaaack, I hate those things.. they just redirect the glass fiberdust around the edges....
A Much Better Idea is a halfmask respirator... SAS or MMM. Have it fitted and disposable discs are cheaper than the "dustmask" junk, then when you are painting or doing SERIOUS time indoors with VOC's add the carbon cans.... to soak up the poisons... warning, carbon is not enough for some urethanes, supplied air mask only, make sure you read the labels...

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[sailingkid]

Then sanding might have to be another thing that waits until next week too...

[JimC]

Since you're all so interested, here are some photos. Jim since the boat has 1 working bailer, should i just fill in the hole in the one thats broken? I think its been plugged up before, but i think it could be done better seeing as the plug is about cm in from the hull. How should i go about doing this?

Whenever I've sailed a boat with one bailer its irritated the **** out of me... If you can possibly source a second one do so. The puddle that doesn't reach the other bailer always looks huge! On repairs, there's stuff on the Pom website... for instance...http://www.sailingsource.com/cherub/restoring.php

[sailingkid]

Thanks for the link Jim. I'm not sure theres much i can do now if i need a fancy dust mask to sand back the fibreglass, the yacht shops are shut, and i dont have any red or white paint.
When i was looking at that site i noticed that they are running 21sqm kites. I might have to see if i can get an old B14 kite or something eventually.

[Boats13]

Thanks for the link Jim. I'm not sure theres much i can do now if i need a fancy dust mask to sand back the fibreglass, the yacht shops are shut, and i dont have any red or white paint.
When i was looking at that site i noticed that they are running 21sqm kites. I might have to see if i can get an old B14 kite or something eventually.

Someone brought you up well! Polite, listens, and grateful. Kudos to your parents!

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[JimC]

When i was looking at that site i noticed that they are running 21sqm kites. I might have to see if i can get an old B14 kite or something eventually.

Its worth noting that opinion varies on how much extra through the water speed that gives you. If the idea is to go fast and have fun, as opposed to winning windward/leeward races, in any comditions there is an optimum size kite. If you go past that you may go deep and get plenty of vmg, but you won't actually go as fast through the water. A lot of folks have a very hard time believing that, but it remains true... There's no evidence I've seem that the UK boats are going any faster with 21m kites over 15, although they are going a hell of a lot deeper and getting round a w/l course more quickly. You also need to consider loads...

[JackMontana]

Is there any guidance on building the chute launching bit? I'm going to build a through-deck spinnaker launcher for a similarly small boat and am open to all suggestions. As of now I am planning on making a male mould out of insulation foam, fairing with bondo b/c it's cheap, many coats of high-build primer, make it nice and shiny and then laminate around that. I don't know a thing about the sizing though and there's no similar dinghy's around here to go take a look. Thanks!

[JimC]

Is there any guidance on building the chute launching bit? I'm going to build a through-deck spinnaker launcher for a similarly small boat and am open to all suggestions. As of now I am planning on making a male mould out of insulation foam, fairing with bondo b/c it's cheap, many coats of high-build primer, make it nice and shiny and then laminate around that. I don't know a thing about the sizing though and there's no similar dinghy's around here to go take a look. Thanks!

Yes, the advice is "don't". I did it once to much the same technique you suggest, and it was an absolute b****** of a job. The particular problem area is between between the lip and the tube running aft which was a nightmare to get half smooth. A beter solution from the point o view of construction is to have a low bow tank and just a moulded curve round the mouth, which is a hundred times easier to make.

[sailingkid]

I get what your saying jim. Putting a huge kite on my boat would be like sailing a 29er super low. It might get down the course quicker, but it doesn't feel fast. I'm goin to have my little brohter sailing it with me so i might not be able to have a kite that big anyway, or ill be singlehanded so i wont need sails that big.

[sailingkid]

Today i spent an hour and a half, as well as 6 pieces of sandpaper sanding the fibreglass. I'm going to need to use a fair bit of filler because as soon as you fibreglass one but the piece of wood next to it seems to be really warped. I would post pics but it doesen't really look that different, just less shiney. Also once i was finished i was so yellow. Imagine that in this song whenever they say blue its yellow and you get the idea. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=H25lz7gchaw

[Boats13]

Today i spent an hour and a half, as well as 6 pieces of sandpaper sanding the fibreglass. I'm going to need to use a fair bit of filler because as soon as you fibreglass one but the piece of wood next to it seems to be really warped. I would post pics but it doesen't really look that different, just less shiney. Also once i was finished i was so yellow. Imagine that in this song whenever they say blue its yellow and you get the idea. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=H25lz7gchaw

LoL! I emailed that link to my kids!
Pssssst, think about doing that to a 99ft x 32ft work barge, fairing consisted of cutting out the caved in plates chamfering the edges of patch plate and hull.... no filler allowed weld it, grind it, PING the welds (sonic hidden crack checking), spray base epoxy (Mare Island Green) over a metal acid wash and Black it!! Had a Great MasterChief that would get right down on the float with us.... learned a lot from that Old Man. btw, black and green powder and rust looks like BAD Puke!

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[sailingkid]

That song has been around for a while. I might get some more work done this weekend, depending on if i race on saturday, which depends if my crew will sail. I think now i just have to get some sort of filler then fill it, then paint it.

[Boats13]

Well, did you fill and sand or go sailing? Progress report, please.

13

[sailingkid]

I went sailing and won the first race across the line and on both handicap divisions. Dad says i need to sand more. Tonight i have basketball, but since your all so keen for progress i might have to do some sanding tommrow then take some pictures. I really want to get this boat finished quickly becuase i have a crazy idea for an 8 foot catamaran to fit under the rig off the cherub.

[Boats13]

I went sailing and won the first race across the line and on both handicap divisions. Dad says i need to sand more. Tonight i have basketball, but since your all so keen for progress i might have to do some sanding tommrow then take some pictures. I really want to get this boat finished quickly becuase i have a crazy idea for an 8 foot catamaran to fit under the rig off the cherub.

Welll?????? Spaulding???????

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[sailingkid]

Dad wants the boat out of the shed, so after a brief intermission i've started working on it again. The other night we put filler on it, then today we fitted the new venturis. I do have a question though, what sort of paint do we use to paint over the west system filler, and the boat?
At the moment i'm thinking of painting it bright orange because all the fast boats have orange keels and the way i see it the more orange the better.

[bistros]

Dad wants the boat out of the shed, so after a brief intermission i've started working on it again. The other night we put filler on it, then today we fitted the new venturis. I do have a question though, what sort of paint do we use to paint over the west system filler, and the boat?
At the moment i'm thinking of painting it bright orange because all the fast boats have orange keels and the way i see it the more orange the better.

Paint depends on a whole bunch of issues, number one among them is available funds. If funds are no object, two part marine paints like Epiphanes, Awlgrip, Interlux, Imron and the like. Every one of these has their fans and detractors. Two part paints are serious chemicals, and require environmental protection for the painter.

There are lots of threads about paint here and on other sites. Perhaps a little Google time is in order to save repetition.

Roll & Tip is a great technique for painting. If you have a large roll of cash, get someone else to paint the boat and tip them well. If you don't, use a foam rolller, paint a small area and then brush out the bubbles with the dry tip of a pure bristle brush.

--
Bill

[sailingkid]

We have the compressor spray system bistros and thats what Dad wants to use, i assume that 2 part paints can be used in spray guns? All we really want is just for it to stick to the hull and the fller at the same time.

[Phil S]

There are good 2 packs available in Aust from several companies not in Bistro's US list. The probelm with most is that spaying is dangerous to your health without very good specialist masks and ventilation.
I would recommend brushing or rolling + tip for a finish good enough for this project.
A finish is only as good as the preparation so unless you have the time and energy for several coats of undercoat and heaps of sanding between coats, then brushing will be as good as you will get anyway.
Brushing a one pack is not recommended as its too soft for cradle pads and will wear easilly.

[sailingkid]

Fair enough Phil, i've got all holidays to paint it so I have enough time to whack on a few coats. Thanks for your advice.
Tonight we also put more filler on just to fill out the big hollows, now we just need to do a bit more sanding and sikaflex round the new venturis, then we might have to make a fitting to hold the 29er mast tip bowsprit down, and then we can paint it.

[Doug Lord]

Dad wants the boat out of the shed, so after a brief intermission i've started working on it again. The other night we put filler on it, then today we fitted the new venturis. I do have a question though, what sort of paint do we use to paint over the west system filler, and the boat?
At the moment i'm thinking of painting it bright orange because all the fast boats have orange keels and the way i see it the more orange the better.

---------------------------------
Kid, did you give up on the Hobie 16?

[FoilerMothGuy]

Doug, unlike you, kid has several working/semi-working boats that all demand his time and attention. The Hobie 16 is technically his father's boat, but kid races it occasionally.

[bistros]

There are good 2 packs available in Aust from several companies not in Bistro's US list. The probelm with most is that spaying is dangerous to your health without very good specialist masks and ventilation.
I would recommend brushing or rolling + tip for a finish good enough for this project.
A finish is only as good as the preparation so unless you have the time and energy for several coats of undercoat and heaps of sanding between coats, then brushing will be as good as you will get anyway.
Brushing a one pack is not recommended as its too soft for cradle pads and will wear easilly.

US? Nope. Canada actually. We live in the unheated attic of North America.

If your dad knows someone with a spray booth and a positive pressure breathing system sure, spray it. Better to get someone on the gun who does it a lot. I've been learning how to spray but would never consider spraying a two pack myself. I've only got one set of lungs and I've already got an asthma problem.

You can get very good results with roll & tip. Be aware that the color you choose will define the number of coats and amount of work necessary. Transparent & jewel toned tints are the worst - red needs five or six coats on top of medium to dark gray primer to look good. Black shows every surface problem like it's 100 times worse than it actually is. Carefully research what primer tint make your color look best, and pre-tint the primer to make painting more effective with less coats. White paint is the easiest to cover with.

My mentor spent time with one of the industry's best finish experts and learned to use a high build white primer layer once things were good and fair, covered by a gray primer layer before final sanding. Sanding with a long board on the gray gives very instant feedback on how much you are sanding - when the white starts to show, you stop. If you've faired correctly, the final sanding evenly cuts the gray layer - if not, bumps and hollows are immediately apparent by white patches on the high spots and gray hollows.

You will learn a lot doing this, and learn to appreciate the quality of finish of other people's work. Don't be afraid of re-starting if a result doesn't meet your standards, and take your time. Painting and sanding is the one place that speed can kill a great project.

If you live close to an Anarchist who is willing to show you painting technique, get hands-on help to get going. 10 minutes of hands-on coaching is better than six weeks of reading.

--
Bill

[sailingkid]

Doug I have a 29er,Cherub and a Sabot, but the hobies my Dads boat, and I found someone to skipper my 29er so i race that now because of the big fleet in our state. I will be sailing the hobie Sunday though.
Thanks Bistros, I plan to paint it fluro orange, so does that mean i need primer or can i just get away with a few coats of orange paint?

[GybeSet®]

Thanks Bistros, I plan to paint it fluro orange, so does that mean i need primer or can i just get away with a few coats of orange paint?

depends on the substrate, what are you going over ?

needs to be two pack (or GRP) you want to use 2 pack over it.

you'll need to prime the filler, may as well get a high build primer

[sailingkid]

I think we're gunna use a brush now since everyone recomends it.
Tonight we wet sanded down the filler, not its pretty much ready for painting, just need the paint.

[GybeSet®]

We have the compressor spray system bistros and thats what Dad wants to use, i assume that 2 part paints can be used in spray guns? All we really want is just for it to stick to the hull and the fller at the same time.

mad to brush if you have this, also previous posts suggest your dad knows how to use it, or at the very least giving good advice

use a good respirator 3M and the like

learn to spray, it's a good skill to have
.

[bistros]

We have the compressor spray system bistros and thats what Dad wants to use, i assume that 2 part paints can be used in spray guns? All we really want is just for it to stick to the hull and the fller at the same time.

mad to brush if you have this, also previous posts suggest your dad knows how to use it, or at the very least giving good advice

use a good respirator 3M and the like

learn to spray, it's a good skill to have
.

Kid:

Not so great advice, probably given by someone young enough to have no fear of things.

Read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the chemicals you intend to play with. Chemistry is not just for lab coats and mad scientists. If you don't understand the MSDS, do a little research and call the manufacturer. They generally have people available and lots of info available on the web so they can avoid liability lawsuits from carefree people who don't bother to protect themselves.

Two part marine paints are often include the same chemicals as super glue - not something you really want in your lungs. They are not good to have on exposed skin as well. If you read the MSDS, you'll see they recommend complete exposed skin coverage, eye protection and postive pressure breathing apparatus. Not a 3M respirator. Real professional painters are very careful about chemical exposure, because they realize risk isn't worth it.

Even sanding fairing compound and paint should be treated carefully. I wear a dust mask when sanding. I used to skip the mask - it's hotter and gets sweaty, but I've blown my nose after sanding sessions in the past without the mast and it's amazing how much sanding dust ends up in your respiratory system.

I've got bad asthma from allergies, and my breathing is sketchy enough during a bad incident that I don't want to try one with 30% of my lungs damaged by inhaling super glue. If you appreciate being able to draw full breaths when you are working out without coughing up a lung, be careful around paint.

I'd certainly use the high build primer and then put down a uniform colored coat of light to medium gray under the orange if you want good results and want to keep paint weight to a minimum. Painting final color on top of mottled primer increases the number of coats needed to cover it.

Spray if you like, but you don't want to watch your dad on a respirator in a few years. If you are going to brush, remember to still have positive airflow, filtered air would be good. I wear blue nitrile gloves always working with chemicals, and besides making clean up quicker, they reduce exposure to chemicals for the largest and most sensitive organ on my body - the skin.

Cheers,

--
Bill

[GybeSet®]

ha ha, maybe older than you and in the business of painting boats among other tasks

Dust mask is not enough for sanding fairing compounds/epoxies,
could be near as bad as the paint you're describing, wear a 3M type sealed respirator there too,
the carbon cartridges won't 'get old' in a day if you keep them in a sealed tupperware-type container

there's no doubt it (2 part paint) is nasty shit, but most boats are done that way, I hear you Bill but how can marine paints stop being sprayed ? even antifouls

on the other hand IT IS an old boat so maybe brushing can match the character of the day, home-build and brushing was a bit more prevalent then !!! that too is a good skill to develop and at a 'competent' level needs advice from a painter

agree there !

[sailingkid]

Apprently the local paint dealer has 2 pack in AS2700. I've picked the colour i like called inca gold. I think they said something about having to do an undercoat with primer etc, but ill find out when we go to get the paint tommorow. If worst comes to worst i'll use dads darth vader mining/industrial mask.

[GybeSet®]

again IS there bare timber where the Gold is going, or paint


--------------------

the mask will need new cartridges, there are a few grades of these get the one for the urethane thinners

when finished first coat put the cartridges in a sealed container or many many bags ready for the next shoot

[sailingkid]

Theres paint where the new paints going Gybeset. I'll see what happens when we get the paint.

[sailingkid]

We went to the paint shop today, the paint we were going to get was gunna cost us $290 because we had to buy like 5 litres of white and 5 of orange, so we are getting the same stuff from a different supplier now, it should get here eventually, but i'm not sure when!

[GybeSet®]

jesus you'll be lucky to use 2 ltrs, even one, comment Gouv, JimC anyone, Cherub is a small 12'er

talk to someone in the marine or panelbeater trade and try to source the right amount of 2pack at the right price

put the saving toward a litre or 2 of sanding primer/hi-build-surfacer/ucoat to get a nice base for the yellow

[GybeSet®]

IF you can use ONE ltr (good chance of that)

you could go to Bias or Whitworths and do it for $80 maybe in one-pack ( ie Inter. Brightside modified polyurethane or Norglas equiv, Inter being dearer)

even 2-pack Norglass or Nautical under 150 + thinners, 2-pack Inter a bit more ..this is INCLUDING a litre of primer/surfacer ,

way under $50 (1part) or $100 (2part) for the gloss .... Stockists here
.
I'd go here to Glenroy for even better prices www.aallpaints.com

better give them a headstart in advance though since you want 'other than white',they can prob tint one-part anyway

2-part
9314823040817 Norglass ShipShape 2K Epoxy Primer Undercoat 1lt Kit $51.00
9314823040886 Norglass ShipShape 2K Epoxy Primer Undercoat 2lt Kit $110.00

9314823050014 Northane 2 Pack Polyurathane 1lt Kit $74.25
9314823050038 Northane 2 Pack Polyurathane 2lt Kit $160.00

One-part
Norglass Weatherfast 1lt $34.60

I would go International Brightside if going one part as its HARD modified Urethane
.

[sailingkid]

Thanks gybeset, i'll keep that in mind when the paint shop rings us back.

[sailingkid]

Ok so we've ordered the paint, it's bright orange and it gets here sometime this week. Dads decided he's going to spray it and he's picking up a mask this week too.
Meanwhile we have put sealant all the way round the gunnels to fill the gaps, have put filler on the bow and hull and epoxyed the back tonight so it looks slightly less dodgy when painted, as long as it dries seeing its about 10c here and the epoxy requires 15. Hopefully the heater will sort that out. However epoxy stinks and i now have a headache, and if someone made a smell-less epoxy they would make a fortune.
I've also sanded back the centreboard and rudder.

Anyway here are some pictures of the last few weeks progress

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[sailingkid]

And heres another:

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[sailingkid]

And another:

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[sailingkid]

Last one, these foils still seem out of proportion, i've seen 25 footers with smaller centreboards and sabots with bigger rudders...

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[TinkerSailor]

Ok so we've ordered the paint, it's bright orange and it gets here sometime this week. Dads decided he's going to spray it and he's picking up a mask this week too.
Meanwhile we have put sealant all the way round the gunnels to fill the gaps, have put filler on the bow and hull and epoxyed the back tonight so it looks slightly less dodgy when painted, as long as it dries seeing its about 10c here and the epoxy requires 15. Hopefully the heater will sort that out. However epoxy stinks and i now have a headache, and if someone made a smell-less epoxy they would make a fortune.
I've also sanded back the centreboard and rudder.

Anyway here are some pictures of the last few weeks progress

ther are lots of epoxies that dont stink but they are more toxic than good old polyster from what I hear.

I sure hope you are going to take out those bailers before you paint?

Leigh

[_Vegas_]

Ok so we've ordered the paint, it's bright orange and it gets here sometime this week. Dads decided he's going to spray it and he's picking up a mask this week too.
Meanwhile we have put sealant all the way round the gunnels to fill the gaps, have put filler on the bow and hull and epoxyed the back tonight so it looks slightly less dodgy when painted, as long as it dries seeing its about 10c here and the epoxy requires 15. Hopefully the heater will sort that out. However epoxy stinks and i now have a headache, and if someone made a smell-less epoxy they would make a fortune.
I've also sanded back the centreboard and rudder.

Anyway here are some pictures of the last few weeks progress

ther are lots of epoxies that dont stink but they are more toxic than good old polyster from what I hear.

I sure hope you are going to take out those bailers before you paint?

Leigh

Actually the VOC of epoxy is much less than polyester due to no loading of solvents on epoxy - nothing to out gas - polystyrene and the beloved Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide (MEKP) are the business chemical in polyester. The amines in epoxy are highly corrosive prior to curing - after the cure - they are inert and find a full cure within 2 weeks - polyester continues to cure throughout its life - it also shrinks (IT SHRINKS?!! I don't know how you walk around with those things )

[sailingkid]

We plan to just tape up the bailers Tinker when we paint, because theres a fair bit of sealant between them and the hull. I'd hate to be the person that goes to take them out in 20 years! Hopefully we'll be able start painting this weekend.

[cosmicsedso]

ok So what happened?
Only just found this thread and reminded me of my youth. Sabots with cadet jib and spin two up in 35 knots!
Go for it kid and dont let oldies talk you out of having a go.

[sailingkid]

Been a bit busy sailing recently to do anything to the boat. Its ready to paint, after nationals we should get the paint on, which should be in 2-3 weeks. Keep looking for updates!

[sailingkid]

After a slight delay the new timber side rail things got put on today. Tommorow I might have a crack at either putting the undercoat on the boat or fibreglassing the foils. I'm between jobs atm and after sailing a 420 in 25+ the other day its inspired me to have another go at finishing this off, considering its really close to competion, the boats now painted fluro orange and the deck just needs painting and fitout, and it will probably make a really good heavy air boat. Now I'm just wondering weather the mast post can take having 2 wires off it...

[skiffsailor_aus]

Good luck with the restoration mate! I currently sail a new cherub and we restored an old one (not as old as that - it was fibreglass) a few years ago. It had been professionally converted to take an assymetric, so it was mostly just stripping the million old layers of paint off, & giving her a new coat of paint, as well as fixing broken/old fittings etc.

Check out the class association - there are stacks of people who have restored/converted old timber boats - Cherub Association of Australia. There is a Victorian contact on there - he might be able to give you some tips. Also, the facebook page is great - Australian Cherub Sailors - Facebook

Don't know whether a timber boat could take twin-wires etc, but it's worth talking to people on the website/facebook. Plenty of modern cherubs have been turbo'd to sail with 12's so it can be done, just depends if the boat can take it.

If you are going to put a fixed pole on, make sure you check the bow as you will probably need to re-inforce with carbon or something so that the bow of the boat can take the extra stress of the kite. Not sure if a 29er kite will be mast-head, didn't think they were that much bigger than a cherub kite. Will still be a blast though!

By the way, those foils look ok - our rudder is about that length, and our centreboard is really long (I think it's longer than a 16ft skiff centreboard).

[sailingkid]

Yeah I'm thinking I might go for a b14 kite or similar to get some real sail area...probably just go for 1 trap for starters, I'll stay the pole back to the chainplates and the bow like a 12, and the bracket it attaches to is pretty overbuilt, then its bolted to an internal block of oak, however the entire bow is pretty dodgy as you've seen so theres every chance the front'll just fall off on the first wave.

[skiffsailor_aus]

See if you can get your hands on a 12 number 4 kite! The number 4 rig is not much bigger than a cherub rig, so it would be a mast-head kite. That'd be fun - it's what we want to put on our boat one day!

[sailingkid]

See if you can get your hands on a 12 number 4 kite! The number 4 rig is not much bigger than a cherub rig, so it would be a mast-head kite. That'd be fun - it's what we want to put on our boat one day!

Yeah I've been sailing on a matthews 12 down here recently, maybe that could work, it'll end up being whatever I can get my hands on cheap.

[sailingkid]

Spent 2 hours putting a coat of primer on the boat today. Next jobs either undercoat or glassing the centreboard.

[sailingkid]

Tried glassing the cetreboard, got 1 half done, now I'm all sticky and I'm not too sure how well the glass will set due to possiby not putting enough resin on it.

[nzrat]

Any more action on what looks like your Murray Hushpower design Cherub?

[sailingkid]

Boats got 1 coat of paint on the deck to go, then its just down to fitting it out and finishing the glassing. I need to track down a kite that roughly fits (I can have a crack at cutting it down). Anyone looking to flog off an old 14, 29er, B14 or similar kite, let me know. Preferably in my part of Aus.

[sailingkid]

Started the fit out tonight after dad sprayed the topcoat on.

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[Shu]

You're almost there. I stumbled on this thread today. The boat looks beautiful. I think you'll be ok with 2 strings, as you're just trading compression load from the shroud for compression load from the second string. Also, I built a single string 14' plywood boat using scantlings from a Farr Javelin (similar construction to yours), then later converted it to an I14 by throwing an I14 rig on it. I just kept the rig tension low and it was fine. I've had close to 200kg on the wire. Then again, that was a new boat. It's now 6 years old, and I've retired it back to the single string rig, since launching my new I14.