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Trailing edge keel repair


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#1 dickie greenleaf

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 07:19 PM

Can you fellas suggest what would be needed to do some minor trailing edge keel repair?

There exists a small quarter-sized chunk that is missing from the trailing edge of my keel. The yard takes no direct responsibility, however, they said that they would give me whatever is needed to make the proper repair.

So, that being the case, can you point me in the proper direction? I've got a friend that could help, but I don't know what I would need.

As always, appreciating the responses from the SA community.

Thanks again.

DG

#2 DA-WOODY

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 07:38 PM

I thought this was an announcement for a voluntary recall by a manufacture :o :lol: :lol: :lol:



















ok not really funny :wacko:

#3 Kaptainkriz

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 07:59 PM

easy fix, little thickened 5 minute epoxy or JB weld held in place with a clamp and couple plactic squeegees and it will be smooth and fair...touch up with some sandpaper...done. :D

Can you fellas suggest what would be needed to do some minor trailing edge keel repair?

There exists a small quarter-sized chunk that is missing from the trailing edge of my keel. The yard takes no direct responsibility, however, they said that they would give me whatever is needed to make the proper repair.

So, that being the case, can you point me in the proper direction? I've got a friend that could help, but I don't know what I would need.

As always, appreciating the responses from the SA community.

Thanks again.

DG



#4 OceanBien

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 09:11 PM

These typs of repairs are a nuisance as they keep re-appearing due to the lack of bondability of the edge.
1st question would be how thick is the keel trailing edge, and how thick is the forward end of the break?
If the front of the broken out part is less than 1/4" then you'll need to bevel one side of the edge of the area by about 1/2" and use an epoxy filler with microfibers. Either use a flat sheet of something with some mold release on it, or just use wax paper over somthing flat and press it against the side opposite the bevel. Use peel-ply or wax paper to give the goop some ability to stay in place.
Once that is cured, go to the other side and dish out the repair causing some bevel to the lead and apply more of your goop. The double bevel will help hold the repair in place.
If the damage edge of the keel is thicker than 14", then you can add a ss fastener fore/aft into the lead, then cut the head off so you'll have a threaded stud to add some structure to the repair. If the trailing edge of the keel is thicker than the head of the screw, then don't cut the head off the screw, then do the above repair method.
We don't need to say anything about sandpaper, filing, rasps, drills, tape, goggles, paint-suits & resperators, do we?

#5 knobblyoldjimbo

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 10:30 PM

so not very big (we don't have quarters in the colonies). Couple of interesting products - epoxy filler, I use Norglass but I guess anything similar. Also that brown packing tape stuff.

I've put filler on then used the non sticky surface of the tape to lay it along the repair - it doesn't stick and the repair is pretty much acceptable with a nice glossy outer. With the trailing edge if you taped the reverse side along one side then fill then tape the other side.

The filler also has an interesting 'feature' after about an hour, you wet your finger (or gloved finger) and rub gently - you can smooth off the fill to a reasonable finish. Sanding is better of course but sailing or drinking beer is better still.

#6 Polaris

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 01:31 AM

West Systems 105/205 with high density microfibers mixture. Mix it to a nice density, set in place. Need painter tape and wax paper to hold in position. sand the next day.

#7 happyending

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 02:24 AM

Remember to wet the bonding area out with unthickened epoxy. Then the West with fillers will do the trick. If any rust prone metal is exposed, make sure you grind to rust free first.

#8 schoonerman

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 05:26 AM

Remember to wet the bonding area out with unthickened epoxy. Then the West with fillers will do the trick. If any rust prone metal is exposed, make sure you grind to rust free first.


Better bet on rust is Ameron 235 and then use thickened west on it. You can also just use Ameron 140. The stuff is a REAL PIA to sand but will be there long after the keel's fallen off :ph34r:

If you use 140, make sure you use peelply, wax paper or reversed mylar tape (or any mylar film). If you need to clamp it, cut up a couple of plastic milk cartons and put those under the clamps...they are stiff enough to hold form but nearly nothing will stick to 'em.

#9 dickie greenleaf

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 12:52 AM

Thanks fellas.

I truly appreciate the advice.

Off to get the goo this weekend.

DG

#10 Jambalaya

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 05:54 AM

The nick below in my keel trailing edge was repaired 2 seasons ago and has not reappeared. Job was done by a french yard, don't have more details, just filler I assumed.

Attached File  Jambalaya_Keel.jpg   110.91K   93 downloads

#11 Chuck L

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 11:15 AM

The nick below in my keel trailing edge was repaired 2 seasons ago and has not reappeared. Job was done by a french yard, don't have more details, just filler I assumed.

Attached File  Jambalaya_Keel.jpg   110.91K   93 downloads


J/80?

Seriously, that is not a nick, it's a stress crack waiting to happen!

If the keel root is metal (rust makes it look like an iron keel) then that crack is on its way from the back, across the keel to the front, whereupon it may one day crack right off.

If it's the fibreglass sump, then it looks like a J/80 (all kidding aside it looks like a structural crack, not just cosmetic).

Seriously.

[edit - looks like the fibreglass sump, not the metal keel, but still I hope they ground the crack out (inside and out) and applied a structural repair to the area.]

#12 Squalamax

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 12:14 PM

That looks like a "C+C smile" to me.

C+C 41?

#13 mrgnstrn

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 02:44 PM

That looks like a "C+C smile" to me.

C+C 41?


Most C&C's smile from the leading edge, or at least the older vintage (pre-Tartan) did.

-M

#14 Squalamax

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 03:24 PM

That looks like a "C+C smile" to me.

C+C 41?


Most C&C's smile from the leading edge, or at least the older vintage (pre-Tartan) did.

-M


The 41's complete the smile on both leading and trailing edges!

#15 Jambalaya

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 03:47 PM

I heard from a couple of sources that it's a filler crack only, not unheard of. It's my understanding the sump is quite squared off. It's not rust but the colour of the filler material. Boat has done lots of miles since in all weathers and there has been not a trace of it reappearing.

#16 schoonerman

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 04:29 PM

IMO, you need to grind that crack to good material.

It does you ZERO good with that thing in the back of your mind in a significant seaway.

Make sure this isn't a structural issue.




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