Latest GP26 Starts up
#201
Posted 31 December 2010 - 08:54 PM
Happy New Year,
Kevin
#202
Posted 02 January 2011 - 10:06 PM
Kevin
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#203
Posted 03 January 2011 - 06:53 PM
Lance
#204
Posted 04 January 2011 - 02:53 PM
Kevin
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#205
Posted 16 January 2011 - 03:04 AM
Kevin
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#206
Posted 17 January 2011 - 01:52 AM
#207
Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:37 PM
Kevin
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#208
Posted 05 February 2011 - 07:39 PM
Why the use of plywood instead of MDF for this mold?
#209
Posted 07 February 2011 - 05:06 PM
We decided to cut the deck mold part ourselves instead of having them C&C cut as we did with the hull stations. We felt that the ease of working with the plywood was worth the difference in price. We will be using the same technique as was used in the hull so getting a sheet rock screw to bite the first time is important. The other thought in deciding to go plywood was the rib band to mold station epoxy bond would be more secure.
Kevin
#210
Posted 12 February 2011 - 02:30 AM
Kevin
Attached Files
#211
Posted 21 February 2011 - 04:37 PM
We fired up the oven and decided to turbo charge the heating by wiring in an infrared lamp which has brought the temperature up above the melting point of the foam. Having said that, the thermostat is now a useful devise.
The high density inserts were pre-fitted in the foam panels before heating and the foam starts going in the top of the cabin.
Kevin
Attached Files
#212
Posted 21 February 2011 - 04:55 PM
We ended up snapping a couple of the smaller pieces where high density inserts were glued to regular density foam. We replace those small panels with solid high density foam and the difference was only a few grams due to the size of the pieces.
The compound curved cabin top was completed and the flat sides bent in and attached at the cabin chine. The inside of the blister is being faired as I type and this afternoon the cabin portion of the deck mold will be re-aligned on the table and secured in place. With any luck we might get a rib band or two on the mold for the deck foam.
Kevin
Attached Files
#213
Posted 01 March 2011 - 04:08 PM
Kevin
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#214
Posted 01 March 2011 - 10:04 PM
Peter and Ed have been busy today shaping the foam for the cockpit deck radius. When all the pieces are bent to the radius they will be fitted and glued together . The starboard side is done and tomorrow its on to the port.
Kevin
Attached Files
#215
Posted 02 March 2011 - 08:38 AM
#216
Posted 03 March 2011 - 01:42 AM
#217
Posted 03 March 2011 - 02:43 PM
We have been checking the weight as we have gone along and the parts that have been weighed have all been close to Jim's targets. I guess the acid test will be after the deck is bond and we can weight the nearly completed hull. This near complete weight will be done prior ro the outside of the bottom getting laminated.
The 2011 class rules have been posted on the ORC.org website. The changes to the rule ( I believe) will give us a little more room to come in near minimum.
Kevin
#218
Posted 11 March 2011 - 03:08 PM
Attached Files
#219
Posted 12 March 2011 - 08:27 PM
The smoother your work is at the start, the less you will need to fair later.
#220
Posted 14 March 2011 - 02:51 PM
Kevin's a perfectionist. If you can afford one, I highly recommend one of his sails. The finish work is second to none.Damn, you do some BEAUTIFUL work!!
The smoother your work is at the start, the less you will need to fair later.
#221
Posted 24 March 2011 - 03:30 PM
Kevin
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#222
Posted 24 March 2011 - 03:48 PM
Kevin
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#223
Posted 24 March 2011 - 04:01 PM
After the foam is heated and fitted all the lead dive weights in the shop are placed on the foam as the glued parts cure. The deck core is sewn to the mold to convince the foam to stay in place and Ed and Peter are almost finished with the pre-lamination fairing. Lamination should happen next weekend if not sooner.
Kevin
Attached Files
#224
Posted 24 March 2011 - 06:53 PM
-jim lee
#225
Posted 24 March 2011 - 08:14 PM
As for leap frogging the design I think would come to refinements in what Jim comes up with in rudder and keel design which at the moment is not finalized.
Jim Donovan, of course, holds all rights to the design and anyone wanting to purchase the molds would first need to contact Jim and buy the plans / rights to produce.
Please contact me if you would like to discuss.
Best regards,
Kevin Farrar
#226
Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:06 PM
The deck core is sewn to the mold to convince the foam to stay in place
What, exactly, do you mean by "sewn"?
#227
Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:33 PM
We drill two holes through the foam on either side of a rib band then scratch a shallow grove in the foam between the holes. We then take a piece of #40 Dacron leech line and poke the ends of the line through the holes using a sail needle or piece of wire. Both ends of the line are drawn through the foam and knotted together or tied to sheet rock screws depending where we are fastening the foam. When we are sewing in the middle of a section between stations the end of the line are knotted around the rib band then small wooden wedges are pressed together (two opposing wedges works best (not shown)) tensioning the line and drawing the foam to the rib band. Near a station the screws are used to tie the foam down. The line pulls into the groves so that the line lays beneath the laminate and does not make a bump. The line, groves and holes fill with epoxy and become part of the boat. After one side of the laminate is complete the lines around the rib band are cut so the part can come off the mold. Once the part is off and flipped the lines are trimmed to the surface level and any remaining void filled with the laminate and epoxy.
Kevin
Attached Files
#228
Posted 24 March 2011 - 10:22 PM
#229
Posted 24 March 2011 - 11:01 PM
The tooling (all of it) is definitely for sale. Jim and I have discussed it awhile ago and think that the..
Sorry no, we have plenty of tooling. Heaps of it laying around here. I was just wondering because your process is so different than ours.
-jim lee
#230
Posted 03 April 2011 - 06:40 PM
#231
Posted 04 April 2011 - 02:21 PM
A case can be made for most all methods. We went with the idea that getting the structure in the boat first was our best option. Once the deck is bond to the hull the boat will be stable when we roll it to laminate the bottom.
Kevin
#232
Posted 04 April 2011 - 02:51 PM
Kevin
Attached Files
#233
Posted 04 April 2011 - 07:50 PM
Obviously a labor of love.
What will you name her?
#234
Posted 16 April 2011 - 10:43 PM
Measurements from the plan profile of the actual hull have been taken and transferred to the deck and the "cut line" has been splined / drawn on the underside of the deck.
After considerable head scratching and discussion we have decided not to remove the upper portion of the mold above the chine until after the deck is bonded. We will be removing only the rib band that follows the shear as with this piece removed we can attach the deck without mold interference and not take a chance that the shear flare will do something funny.
The triangular structure between the companionway bulkhead and the deck cabin blister intersection is in place and partially glass in. This part also should be finish this weekend along with some fairing of the underside of the deck.
More soon.
Kevin
#235
Posted 17 April 2011 - 09:32 PM
This morning the forward portion of the hull mold was removed so that we could access the bow transom. We flush cut the hull back to the bow transom then laminated the two sides together above the chine. The build-up for the sprit tube and the forstay assembly were included in this process.
Kevin
Attached Files
#236
Posted 19 April 2011 - 02:20 AM
#237
Posted 19 April 2011 - 04:12 PM
Not exactly the same as the vacuum pump. This particular laminate would have required the bagging tape to cross foam which would have leaked like a sieve. We instead wet out the cloth on a table then applied the cloth around the bow transom. When ever it is practical we are bagging, but when not, pre-wetting of the cloth and weighing the material dry prior to laminate to ensure that excessive resin is not used is not unreasonable.
Kevin
#238
Posted 25 April 2011 - 10:02 PM
Kevin
Attached Files
#239
Posted 25 April 2011 - 10:25 PM
Kevin's a perfectionist. If you can afford one, I highly recommend one of his sails. The finish work is second to none.
Damn, you do some BEAUTIFUL work!!
The smoother your work is at the start, the less you will need to fair later.
+1
#240
Posted 25 April 2011 - 10:50 PM
We got a coat of fairing on the underside of the deck. We still to clean up the area where the cabin blister joins the deck and the gussets on the fore side of the companionway bulkhead.
The part under the bag and in the other photos is the cabin hatch slider tray which will be bonded to the cabin ceiling on which the hatch slides in and out. This part will get trimmed down quite a bit from what it looks like in the shots. We will start it's fitting process in the morning.
Kevin
Attached Files
#241
Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:25 AM
The sprit tube was lined up with the laser and the holes cut through the bow transom and the bulkhead aft of it. We machined the sheave plates for the forestay assembly and installed those as well ( photos next post ). The rectangular holes in the bow transom are for the sheave plates.
Kevin
umm... please tell us you're going to put a pointy front on it...
seriously, that looks beautiful and the hatch looks to be lighter & stronger than any companionway structure I've seen. This is going to be an AWESOME boat!
FB- Doug
#242
Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:48 AM
#243
Posted 26 April 2011 - 01:22 AM
Keviin
#244
Posted 11 May 2011 - 09:47 PM
Hatch runner screwed to the side of the slider tray prior to installation.
Hatch getting dry fitted.
Hatch tray bonded to the underside of the cabin blister.
Keel washers bonded to transverse keel frames.
Shroud base reinforcement clamped the the transverse frames.
Shear clamp bonding flanges which have been shape to follow the changes in the curve and intersection angle of the deck / hull join.
The underside of the deck is sprayed with 545 primer (finished surface).
At this point all the shear clamp flanges are made and trimmed and the deck is "mostly" popped free of the mold. We have cut and fitted some of the temporary (wooden) supports that will keep the deck in shape while it gets flipped and then fitted to the boat. There are several parts and pieces which we need to finish up before the deck is bonded but the deck should be off the mold by the weekend.
Kevin
Attached Files
#245
Posted 12 May 2011 - 03:46 PM
We've been busy the last couple of weeks. Here is a short description of whats in the photos.
Hatch runner screwed to the side of the slider tray prior to installation.
Hatch getting dry fitted.
Hatch tray bonded to the underside of the cabin blister.
Keel washers bonded to transverse keel frames.
Shroud base reinforcement clamped the the transverse frames.
Shear clamp bonding flanges which have been shape to follow the changes in the curve and intersection angle of the deck / hull join.
The underside of the deck is sprayed with 545 primer (finished surface).
At this point all the shear clamp flanges are made and trimmed and the deck is "mostly" popped free of the mold. We have cut and fitted some of the temporary (wooden) supports that will keep the deck in shape while it gets flipped and then fitted to the boat. There are several parts and pieces which we need to finish up before the deck is bonded but the deck should be off the mold by the weekend.
Kevin
Hi Kevin,
Excellent progress... You are catching up with our boat.
Well we started spending some time on the boat again as well.
The bulkheads minus the keel support frame has been installed to the boat. Next production of keel support.
In the mean time mast is being readied and Pauger is checking some details with Jim. Also all equipment has arrived in the yard.
Looking fwd to taking the boat out of the mold...
I will post some pictures soon as well.
cheers
#246
Posted 12 May 2011 - 07:03 PM
#247
Posted 13 May 2011 - 10:24 PM
Kevin
#248
Posted 15 May 2011 - 07:25 PM
Today the lifting bridle set-up was screwed to the ceiling and adjusted and I got most of the strings and excess putty cleaned off the exterior of the deck. Next is trimming the cockpit front / cockpit sole intersection and final fairing of the hull / deck join. The goal is to have the two parts stuck together this week. We still have some minor things to complete inside but nothing that should hold us up.
It's starting to look like a boat.
Kevin
Attached Files
#249
Posted 18 May 2011 - 05:54 PM
The forestay sheave assembly has been bonded in and the first two stainless steel fasteners are in the boat.
We got a coat of fairing on the underside of the deck. We still to clean up the area where the cabin blister joins the deck and the gussets on the fore side of the companionway bulkhead.
The part under the bag and in the other photos is the cabin hatch slider tray which will be bonded to the cabin ceiling on which the hatch slides in and out. This part will get trimmed down quite a bit from what it looks like in the shots. We will start it's fitting process in the morning.
Kevin
This hatch detail is very impressive Kevin. What did you use to set it up? Really beautiful work. What laminate did you use?
#250
Posted 19 May 2011 - 03:39 PM
The sprit tube was lined up with the laser and the holes cut through the bow transom and the bulkhead aft of it. We machined the sheave plates for the forestay assembly and installed those as well ( photos next post ). The rectangular holes in the bow transom are for the sheave plates.
Kevin
When i did a similar job, I put a crash box up there between the bow transom & the bulkhead aft about 1' high just in case your false bow gets penetrated
#251
Posted 23 May 2011 - 01:11 PM
The hatch tray consists of uni and bi-ax cloth. The drain channels are 5 alternating layers and the large pan area is just 3 layers. We also added narrow reinforcement along the slider pieces to stiffen and allow the fasteners to bed.
The bow "transom" is 185mm aft of the stem and is made up of several layers of cloth plus additional local reinforcement. Forward of this, out to the stem, is solid foam which will also be covered in cloth. Aft of the bow "transom" is an air tank which is about 250mm above the inside of the hull and extends about 800mm aft.
In the photo's:
The shear clamp flanges getting glued in proving once again that you never can have too many clamps. ( There is now a clamp shortage in Southern New England)
The deck is bonded with weights, clamps and sticks.
A view from the port aft quarter with the bonding stuff cleared off.
Our first look at the "BOAT" with the upper portion of the hull mold removed.
Kevin
Attached Files
#252
Posted 26 May 2011 - 05:45 PM
Thanks for the info Kevin. On mine I don't have the false bow, so my crash box goes right up to the pointy end.Hi Heriberto and Barefoot,
The bow "transom" is 185mm aft of the stem and is made up of several layers of cloth plus additional local reinforcement. Forward of this, out to the stem, is solid foam which will also be covered in cloth. Aft of the bow "transom" is an air tank which is about 250mm above the inside of the hull and extends about 800mm aft.
Kevin
#253
Posted 14 June 2011 - 01:34 AM
#254
Posted 21 June 2011 - 06:48 PM
Kevin
Attached Files
#255
Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:35 PM
This morning I took my first walk around the deck.
Kevin
Attached Files
#256
Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:45 PM
Cool boat, can't wait to see it. I purchased a Viper last year and doing well with it. I will be in New London in a few weeks for the F5 NAs. Hope to catch up with you.
Joe H. Jr
#257
Posted 29 June 2011 - 02:48 AM
Mark Grosby Jamestown
#258
Posted 17 July 2011 - 07:33 PM
Kevin
Attached Files
#259
Posted 20 July 2011 - 02:59 AM
#260
Posted 24 July 2011 - 10:14 AM
The forestay will end with a single block or timble at it's lower end on this GP26. There are two sheeve plates sets now buried in the bow foam block foreward of the bow transom. A piece of line or wire will terminate at one plate pin then travel upward to the single block or timble then return to the other plate which has a 75mm sheave. From here the line leads aft. Earlier posts have photos of the plates before they were coverd in foam.
Kevin
#261
Posted 24 July 2011 - 11:00 AM
Hi Conny,
The forestay will end with a single block or timble at it's lower end on this GP26. There are two sheeve plates sets now buried in the bow foam block foreward of the bow transom. A piece of line or wire will terminate at one plate pin then travel upward to the single block or timble then return to the other plate which has a 75mm sheave. From here the line leads aft. Earlier posts have photos of the plates before they were coverd in foam.
Kevin
Seems like a lot of stuff changed with the new rules. I'm pretty sure in within the old rules you weren't allowed to adjust the forestay while sailing. is it allowed now? if not what benefits are you expecting from this setup? making raising the mast easier?
#262
Posted 24 July 2011 - 02:51 PM
The thought is that we will load and unload the rig with the forestay. The rule still does not allow adjustment to the forestay while racing. This is a far more cost/wieght effective way of tensioning the rig than other options. The lock off cleat will be below deck with the tail able to reach one of the winches.
Kevin
#263
Posted 25 July 2011 - 01:48 PM
Hi Quasi,
The thought is that we will load and unload the rig with the forestay. The rule still does not allow adjustment to the forestay while racing. This is a far more cost/wieght effective way of tensioning the rig than other options. The lock off cleat will be below deck with the tail able to reach one of the winches.
Kevin
Kevin didn't mention that for GP26 class racing he will need to remove the adjustment device, which is a fairly simple process.
For non-class racing, he has a better boat.
#264
Posted 25 July 2011 - 03:50 PM
Hi Quasi,
The thought is that we will load and unload the rig with the forestay. The rule still does not allow adjustment to the forestay while racing. This is a far more cost/wieght effective way of tensioning the rig than other options. The lock off cleat will be below deck with the tail able to reach one of the winches.
Kevin
Kevin didn't mention that for GP26 class racing he will need to remove the adjustment device, which is a fairly simple process.
For non-class racing, he has a better boat.
I guess you will be using a deck stepped mast then? I can imagine that this setup works somehow like a mast jack on rig with swept spreaders.
On the other hand too much forestay tension will straighten the mast so you will have to losen the forestay when the wind picks up and start pulling on the backstay? seems risky to me to do that especially upwind.
How do you plan to remove the adjustement device? simply remove the line an put in a loop/lashing or what's the plan? turnbuckle doesn't seem to be possible.
#265
Posted 26 July 2011 - 05:20 AM
Kevin's mast is stepped below-deck.
Forestay tension pulls against the swept uppers, which will restrain the forward movement of the mast. Eventually the increasing forestay tension adds compression in the tube which will tend to increase mast bend - this is of course dependant on lower shroud tuning. The rig bend can also be controlled by the adjustable backstay.
All Kevin needs to do to "fix" the forestay is to undo the shackles on the adjuster purchase blocks and lash the forestay strop to the fixed eye below deck.
He could even stick a turnbuckle in-line if he wants an "old-school" method of adjusting the forestay length.
#266
Posted 08 August 2011 - 11:44 PM
Kevin
Attached Files
#267
Posted 11 August 2011 - 02:41 PM
Beautiful job. I send great amounts of respect.
T
#268
Posted 15 August 2011 - 05:28 PM
Obviously a minimum amount of fairing required. Great to see it coming together as a boat!
#269
Posted 23 August 2011 - 02:52 PM
For a brief moment the topsides had a couple of coats of 545 on them. Most of it has already been sanded off. We will spray them again when the deck is shot. You can see that the forward hatch is layed in place. The spraying will happen when the hatch openning is done being faired.
Attached Files
#270
Posted 24 August 2011 - 01:16 PM
#271
Posted 08 September 2011 - 02:01 PM
Kevin
Attached Files
#272
Posted 08 September 2011 - 05:25 PM
We are starting to think of ways to roller her over.
Kevin
Hi Kevin,
Is there a slot that goes through the hull where the keel is or is that sealed up? That is the point I used to roll my boat over.
Attached Files
#273
Posted 22 September 2011 - 02:22 PM
#274
Posted 26 September 2011 - 09:01 PM
#275
Posted 12 October 2011 - 07:57 PM
Jim -
I never said Kevin was taking a long time to build the boat or questioned his build quality.
I was replying to StayinStrewn that I didn't think the boat would be in the water racing next year with the list of items still not built or sourced.
Yes - I know Kevin is a sailmaker. Yes - I have met kevin before. Yes - Kevin is only working part time along with the two retired engineers from Electric Boat who are working on the boat
Speaking of how long it takes to build a boat, how is your 20ft coming? Done yet? :-)
Please don't put words in my mouth Jim :-)
Kevin - Keep up the good work!
How are the Russian GP-26 boats being built so quickly? A design that doesn't keep changing? Lower quality? Full time workers?
Both Windseeker and I interpreted your comment "I don't think you will see Farrar's boat on the water for another 3-4 yrs....", as a fairly plain way of saying Kevin's taking a really long time to build his boat.
Even with help, building a boat in your free time takes a lot of time.
My boat project has taken second place to a much bigger and more important project, so it has to wait . . .
Attached Files
#276
Posted 17 October 2011 - 04:10 PM
Attached Files
#277
Posted 17 October 2011 - 10:37 PM
Kevin
Attached Files
#278
Posted 17 October 2011 - 11:13 PM
#279
Posted 17 October 2011 - 11:54 PM
#280
Posted 18 October 2011 - 01:30 AM
#281
Posted 18 October 2011 - 03:15 AM
Looks like the roll over went w/o any issues - boat looks really good
#282
Posted 18 October 2011 - 01:19 PM
#283
Posted 18 October 2011 - 01:46 PM
#284
Posted 18 October 2011 - 02:11 PM
#285
Posted 19 October 2011 - 07:58 PM
#286
Posted 23 October 2011 - 10:58 AM
This afternoon we took another step forward. With the strings shaved off its amazingly fair. Tomorrow we will start knocking the epoxy off the foam joins. The strong back and hull mold has moved to it's new home and the deck mold will follow soon.
Kevin
Looking good Kevin. Will stop by for a look soon.
~psyklik
#287
Posted 03 November 2011 - 12:01 AM
Kevin
#288
Posted 03 November 2011 - 07:15 AM
#289
Posted 03 November 2011 - 01:24 PM
yes. Kevin started his hull first. It's an impressive build.I maybe late in this thread but is your boat the same design as the one in Turkey?
#290
Posted 03 November 2011 - 11:31 PM
#291
Posted 07 November 2011 - 01:14 PM
I wonder who's going to win the "hull weight" pool...
#292
Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:21 PM
I greatly appreciate the help of the friends who made it possible. Thank you Peter, Ed, Walter, Jon, Stu, Charlie, Lisa, Ron, Lance, Brian and Linda who brought the beer.
Kevin
Attached Files
#293
Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:29 PM
Attached Files
#294
Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:33 PM
We need a full-size "after" shot too - glad it looks as good unbagged as we hoped it would!a real image
#295
Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:34 PM
and another
Attached Files
#296
Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:36 PM
Attached Files
#297
Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:40 PM
Kevin
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#298
Posted 07 November 2011 - 08:08 PM
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#299
Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:47 PM
Kevin
Attached Files
#300
Posted 08 November 2011 - 12:01 AM
Looks good Kevin!This morning after removing the bag and peel ply. Tomorrow I will wrap cloth around the lower portion of the stem then cover the hull with micro-balloons.
Kevin
Pretty soon you'll be this:
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