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#201 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 31 December 2010 - 08:54 PM

The nineteen mylar deck mold templates have been drawn and cut. We will start cutting the plywood sections this weekend and with any luck the pieces we made before I went traveling the world will also start getting glued in.
Happy New Year,
Kevin

#202 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 10:06 PM

Well i didn't get around to cutting the deck mold stations. I did get the section "C" upper bulkheads, de-watering boards and supports cut and installed this weekend. I still need to tape them in but they are at least glued in place.
Kevin

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#203 Ryley

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Posted 03 January 2011 - 06:53 PM

Looking good Kevin. Sorry we didn't catch up over the holidays - will see you soon, I'm sure.

Lance

#204 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 02:53 PM

This morning's "dawn patrol" started cutting the plywood for the deck mold. Plenty more stations to go and I still need to chase down the rib bands.
Kevin

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#205 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 03:04 AM

The deck mold stations are starting to get put together. All of them are cut and the process of pre-rib band fairing is underway. We need to extend the bagging table (now deck strong back) to accommodate the full length of the deck. The rib bands are supposed to be cut but I havn't seen them yet. The weather up here has sucked this past week so i'm not really surprised if they are not planed and slit to size yet. Building a mold nearly the same size as the hull is requiring some creative reorganization of the shop space but we think its all going to fit.
Kevin

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#206 Ryley

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 01:52 AM

Kevin, I know you've got a lot on your plate, but do you have a tentative schedule to see this beauty in the water yet? Or is it still too soon?

#207 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:37 PM

Well in the last couple of week the shelves from hell have been built and the junk that was taking up an enormous amount of space in the shop is piled on them. The lay-up table has morphed into the deck strong back and the faired deck mold stations now sit upon it. The stations that contain the cabin blister have been joined together so that that section can be moved side to side so that we can install the foam core without having to climb on the rib bands. The rib band for the cabin will start going in tomorrow. Both molds actually fit in the space with reasonable room still left to move around.
Kevin

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#208 Conny71

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 07:39 PM

Kevin,

Why the use of plywood instead of MDF for this mold?



#209 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 07 February 2011 - 05:06 PM

Hi Conny71,
We decided to cut the deck mold part ourselves instead of having them C&C cut as we did with the hull stations. We felt that the ease of working with the plywood was worth the difference in price. We will be using the same technique as was used in the hull so getting a sheet rock screw to bite the first time is important. The other thought in deciding to go plywood was the rib band to mold station epoxy bond would be more secure.
Kevin

#210 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 02:30 AM

The final leveling of the strongback/table was laser leveled to within a millimeter and then each station checked as well. The stations, with the exception of those associated with the cabin blister, have been secured to the strongback. We quickly checked the shear line with a long rib band and it looked really fair. This afternoon the first nine rib bands were glued into the top of the cabin blister. After these rib bands cure in place they will be trimmed and additional bands will be fitted to complete the blister. Sometime this next week the oven will be dusted off and the foam will be heated and will start to be installed. Once the foam is in the blister the cabin section of mold stations will be realigned on the strongback and secured. The remaining bands will then get glued on with the deck foam to follow.
Kevin

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#211 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 04:37 PM

The cabin blister ribs bands are finished being installed.
We fired up the oven and decided to turbo charge the heating by wiring in an infrared lamp which has brought the temperature up above the melting point of the foam. Having said that, the thermostat is now a useful devise.
The high density inserts were pre-fitted in the foam panels before heating and the foam starts going in the top of the cabin.
Kevin

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#212 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 04:55 PM

More photos.


We ended up snapping a couple of the smaller pieces where high density inserts were glued to regular density foam. We replace those small panels with solid high density foam and the difference was only a few grams due to the size of the pieces.
The compound curved cabin top was completed and the flat sides bent in and attached at the cabin chine. The inside of the blister is being faired as I type and this afternoon the cabin portion of the deck mold will be re-aligned on the table and secured in place. With any luck we might get a rib band or two on the mold for the deck foam.
Kevin

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#213 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 04:08 PM

After the cabin blister section of the deck mold was secured in place we took the better part of a day to make-up and install supports that held the cockpit face portions of the mold at 90 degrees to the table surface. Although time consuming this step brought that part of the mold into near perfect fairness. That being done, the rib bands were install without difficulty. This morning the wire ties and clamps were removed and most of the bands have already been covered with mylar release tape. The foam has all been cut for the cockpit face to deck radius and the oven is heating up. The radius pieces should start being formed into shape within the next hour.
Kevin

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#214 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 10:04 PM

Hot off the press.
Peter and Ed have been busy today shaping the foam for the cockpit deck radius. When all the pieces are bent to the radius they will be fitted and glued together . The starboard side is done and tomorrow its on to the port.
Kevin

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#215 fdsailor

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 08:38 AM

Looking good. How's the weight panning out? You measuring bits as they go on against a detailed weight estimate?

#216 Ryley

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 01:42 AM

Looks really good Kevin.

#217 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 02:43 PM

"Looking good. How's the weight panning out? You measuring bits as they go on against a detailed weight estimate? "

We have been checking the weight as we have gone along and the parts that have been weighed have all been close to Jim's targets. I guess the acid test will be after the deck is bond and we can weight the nearly completed hull. This near complete weight will be done prior ro the outside of the bottom getting laminated.
The 2011 class rules have been posted on the ORC.org website. The changes to the rule ( I believe) will give us a little more room to come in near minimum.
Kevin

#218 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 03:08 PM

The deck radius is slowly getting fitted. We are telling ourselves that fairing the radius will save time later. I hope that is right because these things are taking forever. The flatter cockpit sides and deck should go much faster.

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#219 gone

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 08:27 PM

Damn, you do some BEAUTIFUL work!!

The smoother your work is at the start, the less you will need to fair later.

#220 Ryley

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 02:51 PM

Damn, you do some BEAUTIFUL work!!

The smoother your work is at the start, the less you will need to fair later.

Kevin's a perfectionist. If you can afford one, I highly recommend one of his sails. The finish work is second to none.

#221 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 03:30 PM

It's been nearly weeks since an update. We have been pretty busy working on the deck. This series of photos shows the piece starting to go together.
Kevin

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#222 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 03:48 PM

We also have gone back to working on the hull because there are a number of steps that need to be completed before we can flip the deck onto the hull. In these shots the inner-gunwale foam is glue in. These foam parts will be glassed over and then ledger pieces made to become the shear clamp. Once the inner-gunwale is glassed and the hull between the shear gets a few temperary supports the hull mold above the chine will be removed.
Kevin

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#223 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 04:01 PM

Tom fine tunes a piece of foam destined for the fore deck.
After the foam is heated and fitted all the lead dive weights in the shop are placed on the foam as the glued parts cure. The deck core is sewn to the mold to convince the foam to stay in place and Ed and Peter are almost finished with the pre-lamination fairing. Lamination should happen next weekend if not sooner.
Kevin

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#224 jim lee

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 06:53 PM

I've been watching this build and I keep wondering, what happens when someone wants a sister ship? Is there any thought to a second boat? Would the second one be able to leverage on what you've already accomplished or is this one-off only?

-jim lee

#225 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 08:14 PM

The tooling (all of it) is definitely for sale. Jim and I have discussed it awhile ago and think that the mold is good for up to another four to five boats. The amount of time saved in a second or third boat using this tooling would be amazing. The deck mold should be available in about a month if not sooner. The pieces and parts tooling along with the mylar templates are available now.

As for leap frogging the design I think would come to refinements in what Jim comes up with in rudder and keel design which at the moment is not finalized.

Jim Donovan, of course, holds all rights to the design and anyone wanting to purchase the molds would first need to contact Jim and buy the plans / rights to produce.
Please contact me if you would like to discuss.

Best regards,
Kevin Farrar

#226 Trevor B

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:06 PM

The deck core is sewn to the mold to convince the foam to stay in place



What, exactly, do you mean by "sewn"?

#227 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:33 PM

Hi Trevor B,
We drill two holes through the foam on either side of a rib band then scratch a shallow grove in the foam between the holes. We then take a piece of #40 Dacron leech line and poke the ends of the line through the holes using a sail needle or piece of wire. Both ends of the line are drawn through the foam and knotted together or tied to sheet rock screws depending where we are fastening the foam. When we are sewing in the middle of a section between stations the end of the line are knotted around the rib band then small wooden wedges are pressed together (two opposing wedges works best (not shown)) tensioning the line and drawing the foam to the rib band. Near a station the screws are used to tie the foam down. The line pulls into the groves so that the line lays beneath the laminate and does not make a bump. The line, groves and holes fill with epoxy and become part of the boat. After one side of the laminate is complete the lines around the rib band are cut so the part can come off the mold. Once the part is off and flipped the lines are trimmed to the surface level and any remaining void filled with the laminate and epoxy.
Kevin

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#228 Trevor B

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 10:22 PM

Thanks.

#229 jim lee

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 11:01 PM

The tooling (all of it) is definitely for sale. Jim and I have discussed it awhile ago and think that the..


Sorry no, we have plenty of tooling. Heaps of it laying around here. I was just wondering because your process is so different than ours.

-jim lee

#230 bruno

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Posted 03 April 2011 - 06:40 PM

Kevin: I hope that I'm not repeating an earlier question in this thread, but why did you decide to use a female hull mold rather than a male? Obviously the sewn foam is cleaner and requires less bog than a screwed/bogged core. Perhaps it's also fairer due to less density variance? Impressive project.

#231 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 02:21 PM

Hi Bruno,
A case can be made for most all methods. We went with the idea that getting the structure in the boat first was our best option. Once the deck is bond to the hull the boat will be stable when we roll it to laminate the bottom.
Kevin

#232 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 02:51 PM

With the help of Peter, Roger,Walter, Tom, Ed and Pat the underside of the deck was laminated yesterday. Ed took a series of high definition photos (on a timer I think) of the six hour process. When we get those photos in a web friendly file size I'll post some of them.
Kevin

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#233 SA Lurker

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 07:50 PM

Wonderful little boat.

Obviously a labor of love.

What will you name her?

#234 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 10:43 PM

The glassing of the inner-gunwales was finished today with the exception of the part between the carbon transverse keel frames ( about 350mm). This means that tomorrow we can cut back the mold above the chine at the bow transom 185mm aft of point zero and start the laminate need to accept the forestay assembly and sprit tube. All this wants to be complete before the deck is flipped and fitted to the hull.

Measurements from the plan profile of the actual hull have been taken and transferred to the deck and the "cut line" has been splined / drawn on the underside of the deck.

After considerable head scratching and discussion we have decided not to remove the upper portion of the mold above the chine until after the deck is bonded. We will be removing only the rib band that follows the shear as with this piece removed we can attach the deck without mold interference and not take a chance that the shear flare will do something funny.

The triangular structure between the companionway bulkhead and the deck cabin blister intersection is in place and partially glass in. This part also should be finish this weekend along with some fairing of the underside of the deck.

More soon.
Kevin

#235 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 09:32 PM

Clamping the last of the inner gunwale, it seems you can never have enough clamps. The same shot yesterday after the uni's and biaxial were laminated.
This morning the forward portion of the hull mold was removed so that we could access the bow transom. We flush cut the hull back to the bow transom then laminated the two sides together above the chine. The build-up for the sprit tube and the forstay assembly were included in this process.
Kevin

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#236 Conny71

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 02:20 AM

That's high tension green tape holding your peel ply in place, about the same as vacuum bagging?

#237 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 04:12 PM

Hi Conny,
Not exactly the same as the vacuum pump. This particular laminate would have required the bagging tape to cross foam which would have leaked like a sieve. We instead wet out the cloth on a table then applied the cloth around the bow transom. When ever it is practical we are bagging, but when not, pre-wetting of the cloth and weighing the material dry prior to laminate to ensure that excessive resin is not used is not unreasonable.
Kevin

#238 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 10:02 PM

The sprit tube was lined up with the laser and the holes cut through the bow transom and the bulkhead aft of it. We machined the sheave plates for the forestay assembly and installed those as well ( photos next post ). The rectangular holes in the bow transom are for the sheave plates.
Kevin

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#239 us7070

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 10:25 PM


Damn, you do some BEAUTIFUL work!!

The smoother your work is at the start, the less you will need to fair later.

Kevin's a perfectionist. If you can afford one, I highly recommend one of his sails. The finish work is second to none.



+1

#240 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 10:50 PM

The forestay sheave assembly has been bonded in and the first two stainless steel fasteners are in the boat.
We got a coat of fairing on the underside of the deck. We still to clean up the area where the cabin blister joins the deck and the gussets on the fore side of the companionway bulkhead.
The part under the bag and in the other photos is the cabin hatch slider tray which will be bonded to the cabin ceiling on which the hatch slides in and out. This part will get trimmed down quite a bit from what it looks like in the shots. We will start it's fitting process in the morning.
Kevin

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#241 Steam Flyer

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:25 AM

The sprit tube was lined up with the laser and the holes cut through the bow transom and the bulkhead aft of it. We machined the sheave plates for the forestay assembly and installed those as well ( photos next post ). The rectangular holes in the bow transom are for the sheave plates.
Kevin


umm... please tell us you're going to put a pointy front on it...

seriously, that looks beautiful and the hatch looks to be lighter & stronger than any companionway structure I've seen. This is going to be an AWESOME boat!

FB- Doug

#242 fullsail

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:48 AM

I was a bit slow on this one, but of course a pointy end makes sens now.

#243 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 01:22 AM

The bow transom is 185mm aft of the actual stem. We will be adding a glass covered foam "pastie" which will cover the sheaves and bring the boat to full length.
Keviin

#244 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 09:47 PM

We've been busy the last couple of weeks. Here is a short description of whats in the photos.

Hatch runner screwed to the side of the slider tray prior to installation.
Hatch getting dry fitted.
Hatch tray bonded to the underside of the cabin blister.
Keel washers bonded to transverse keel frames.
Shroud base reinforcement clamped the the transverse frames.
Shear clamp bonding flanges which have been shape to follow the changes in the curve and intersection angle of the deck / hull join.
The underside of the deck is sprayed with 545 primer (finished surface).

At this point all the shear clamp flanges are made and trimmed and the deck is "mostly" popped free of the mold. We have cut and fitted some of the temporary (wooden) supports that will keep the deck in shape while it gets flipped and then fitted to the boat. There are several parts and pieces which we need to finish up before the deck is bonded but the deck should be off the mold by the weekend.
Kevin

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#245 windseekeryachts

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 03:46 PM

We've been busy the last couple of weeks. Here is a short description of whats in the photos.

Hatch runner screwed to the side of the slider tray prior to installation.
Hatch getting dry fitted.
Hatch tray bonded to the underside of the cabin blister.
Keel washers bonded to transverse keel frames.
Shroud base reinforcement clamped the the transverse frames.
Shear clamp bonding flanges which have been shape to follow the changes in the curve and intersection angle of the deck / hull join.
The underside of the deck is sprayed with 545 primer (finished surface).

At this point all the shear clamp flanges are made and trimmed and the deck is "mostly" popped free of the mold. We have cut and fitted some of the temporary (wooden) supports that will keep the deck in shape while it gets flipped and then fitted to the boat. There are several parts and pieces which we need to finish up before the deck is bonded but the deck should be off the mold by the weekend.
Kevin


Hi Kevin,
Excellent progress... You are catching up with our boat. Posted Image
Well we started spending some time on the boat again as well.
The bulkheads minus the keel support frame has been installed to the boat. Next production of keel support.
In the mean time mast is being readied and Pauger is checking some details with Jim. Also all equipment has arrived in the yard.
Looking fwd to taking the boat out of the mold...
I will post some pictures soon as well.
cheers







#246 Ryley

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 07:03 PM

Coming up quickly on the 1 year mark...

#247 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 10:24 PM

We got the deck fully released from the mold this afternoon ( it took some doing). I was able to stand in the companionway opening and lift the deck up without damaging my back (a very good sign). We have sails in the loft that weigh more than it.
Kevin

#248 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 07:25 PM

It flipped without anything breaking. Well, a couple of the temporary glue joins popped on the wooden support cradle - but no big deal. It's right side up!
Today the lifting bridle set-up was screwed to the ceiling and adjusted and I got most of the strings and excess putty cleaned off the exterior of the deck. Next is trimming the cockpit front / cockpit sole intersection and final fairing of the hull / deck join. The goal is to have the two parts stuck together this week. We still have some minor things to complete inside but nothing that should hold us up.
It's starting to look like a boat.
Kevin

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#249 Heriberto

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 05:54 PM

The forestay sheave assembly has been bonded in and the first two stainless steel fasteners are in the boat.
We got a coat of fairing on the underside of the deck. We still to clean up the area where the cabin blister joins the deck and the gussets on the fore side of the companionway bulkhead.
The part under the bag and in the other photos is the cabin hatch slider tray which will be bonded to the cabin ceiling on which the hatch slides in and out. This part will get trimmed down quite a bit from what it looks like in the shots. We will start it's fitting process in the morning.
Kevin


This hatch detail is very impressive Kevin. What did you use to set it up? Really beautiful work. What laminate did you use?

#250 barefoot children

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 03:39 PM

The sprit tube was lined up with the laser and the holes cut through the bow transom and the bulkhead aft of it. We machined the sheave plates for the forestay assembly and installed those as well ( photos next post ). The rectangular holes in the bow transom are for the sheave plates.
Kevin


When i did a similar job, I put a crash box up there between the bow transom & the bulkhead aft about 1' high just in case your false bow gets penetrated

#251 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 01:11 PM

Hi Heriberto and Barefoot,
The hatch tray consists of uni and bi-ax cloth. The drain channels are 5 alternating layers and the large pan area is just 3 layers. We also added narrow reinforcement along the slider pieces to stiffen and allow the fasteners to bed.
The bow "transom" is 185mm aft of the stem and is made up of several layers of cloth plus additional local reinforcement. Forward of this, out to the stem, is solid foam which will also be covered in cloth. Aft of the bow "transom" is an air tank which is about 250mm above the inside of the hull and extends about 800mm aft.

In the photo's:

The shear clamp flanges getting glued in proving once again that you never can have too many clamps. ( There is now a clamp shortage in Southern New England)

The deck is bonded with weights, clamps and sticks.

A view from the port aft quarter with the bonding stuff cleared off.

Our first look at the "BOAT" with the upper portion of the hull mold removed.

Kevin

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#252 barefoot children

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Posted 26 May 2011 - 05:45 PM

Hi Heriberto and Barefoot,
The bow "transom" is 185mm aft of the stem and is made up of several layers of cloth plus additional local reinforcement. Forward of this, out to the stem, is solid foam which will also be covered in cloth. Aft of the bow "transom" is an air tank which is about 250mm above the inside of the hull and extends about 800mm aft.

Kevin

Thanks for the info Kevin. On mine I don't have the false bow, so my crash box goes right up to the pointy end.

#253 007

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 01:34 AM

Looks like it's coming along Kevin. Let me know when the next beer drinking work party is scheduled, if you could use an underqualified but thirsty assistant one night during the week at the loft.

#254 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 06:48 PM

The pointy end is attached and fairing started along with hours spent on shaping the gunwale. It won't be to much longer and we will glass the deck to the topsides.
Kevin

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#255 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:35 PM

A very successful weekend. We prepped the boat Saturday and glassed the deck yesterday.
This morning I took my first walk around the deck.
Kevin

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#256 Joesailor

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:45 PM

Hi Kevin,

Cool boat, can't wait to see it. I purchased a Viper last year and doing well with it. I will be in New London in a few weeks for the F5 NAs. Hope to catch up with you.

Joe H. Jr

#257 MacGyver Tech

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 02:48 AM

Hi Kevin, Boat looks great. Can't wait to see it and sail it.

Mark Grosby Jamestown

#258 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 07:33 PM

The fairing process is moving along. The second coat of ballons has been allpied to the deck join and the foredeck toe rails have been installed. We still need to do some trimming in and around the cockpit and companionway. We will spray 545 primer on the topsides and deck in a couple of weeks and then roll her over.
Kevin

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#259 Conny71

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 02:59 AM

How Does your forestay attach with the round tube right there? The project looks great, you have to be looking forward to splashing it and enjoying the end result.

#260 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 24 July 2011 - 10:14 AM

Hi Conny,
The forestay will end with a single block or timble at it's lower end on this GP26. There are two sheeve plates sets now buried in the bow foam block foreward of the bow transom. A piece of line or wire will terminate at one plate pin then travel upward to the single block or timble then return to the other plate which has a 75mm sheave. From here the line leads aft. Earlier posts have photos of the plates before they were coverd in foam.
Kevin

#261 quasi-expert

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Posted 24 July 2011 - 11:00 AM

Hi Conny,
The forestay will end with a single block or timble at it's lower end on this GP26. There are two sheeve plates sets now buried in the bow foam block foreward of the bow transom. A piece of line or wire will terminate at one plate pin then travel upward to the single block or timble then return to the other plate which has a 75mm sheave. From here the line leads aft. Earlier posts have photos of the plates before they were coverd in foam.
Kevin


Seems like a lot of stuff changed with the new rules. I'm pretty sure in within the old rules you weren't allowed to adjust the forestay while sailing. is it allowed now? if not what benefits are you expecting from this setup? making raising the mast easier?

#262 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 24 July 2011 - 02:51 PM

Hi Quasi,
The thought is that we will load and unload the rig with the forestay. The rule still does not allow adjustment to the forestay while racing. This is a far more cost/wieght effective way of tensioning the rig than other options. The lock off cleat will be below deck with the tail able to reach one of the winches.
Kevin

#263 Jim Donovan

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Posted 25 July 2011 - 01:48 PM

Hi Quasi,
The thought is that we will load and unload the rig with the forestay. The rule still does not allow adjustment to the forestay while racing. This is a far more cost/wieght effective way of tensioning the rig than other options. The lock off cleat will be below deck with the tail able to reach one of the winches.
Kevin


Kevin didn't mention that for GP26 class racing he will need to remove the adjustment device, which is a fairly simple process.
For non-class racing, he has a better boat.

#264 quasi-expert

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Posted 25 July 2011 - 03:50 PM


Hi Quasi,
The thought is that we will load and unload the rig with the forestay. The rule still does not allow adjustment to the forestay while racing. This is a far more cost/wieght effective way of tensioning the rig than other options. The lock off cleat will be below deck with the tail able to reach one of the winches.
Kevin


Kevin didn't mention that for GP26 class racing he will need to remove the adjustment device, which is a fairly simple process.
For non-class racing, he has a better boat.


I guess you will be using a deck stepped mast then? I can imagine that this setup works somehow like a mast jack on rig with swept spreaders.
On the other hand too much forestay tension will straighten the mast so you will have to losen the forestay when the wind picks up and start pulling on the backstay? seems risky to me to do that especially upwind.

How do you plan to remove the adjustement device? simply remove the line an put in a loop/lashing or what's the plan? turnbuckle doesn't seem to be possible.

#265 Jim Donovan

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Posted 26 July 2011 - 05:20 AM

TP52s have adjustable forestays on a swept spreader rig which works pretty well compared to a rig with a fixed forestay and runners.

Kevin's mast is stepped below-deck.
Forestay tension pulls against the swept uppers, which will restrain the forward movement of the mast. Eventually the increasing forestay tension adds compression in the tube which will tend to increase mast bend - this is of course dependant on lower shroud tuning. The rig bend can also be controlled by the adjustable backstay.


All Kevin needs to do to "fix" the forestay is to undo the shackles on the adjuster purchase blocks and lash the forestay strop to the fixed eye below deck.
He could even stick a turnbuckle in-line if he wants an "old-school" method of adjusting the forestay length.

#266 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 08 August 2011 - 11:44 PM

Topside and deck fairing is nearly finished. We should be spraying primer before to long. The deck mold needs to clear out so we can roll the hull over - we think it has a new home to go to.
Kevin

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#267 timber

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 02:41 PM

Kevin,

Beautiful job. I send great amounts of respect.
T

#268 Heriberto

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 05:28 PM

Wow Kevin,

Obviously a minimum amount of fairing required. Great to see it coming together as a boat!

#269 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 23 August 2011 - 02:52 PM

Wax on wax off.
For a brief moment the topsides had a couple of coats of 545 on them. Most of it has already been sanded off. We will spray them again when the deck is shot. You can see that the forward hatch is layed in place. The spraying will happen when the hatch openning is done being faired.

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#270 StayinStrewn

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Posted 24 August 2011 - 01:16 PM

Looking good...I'm wondering how the boat is going to come out of that 'mold' or whatever it's sitting in.

#271 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 02:01 PM

We are starting to think of ways to roller her over.
Kevin

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#272 Mike in CT

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 05:25 PM

We are starting to think of ways to roller her over.
Kevin


Hi Kevin,

Is there a slot that goes through the hull where the keel is or is that sealed up? That is the point I used to roll my boat over.

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#273 mustang__1

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 02:22 PM

man im sorry i still havent made it down there to help out with this - really sweet project and its amazing to follow in the thread. when i have a weekend off i'[ll try to come down (said that before i know) before she;'s finished up..

#274 Heriberto

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 09:01 PM

You must be considering the keel options about now.... :)

#275 Jim Donovan

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 07:57 PM

Jim -

I never said Kevin was taking a long time to build the boat or questioned his build quality.

I was replying to StayinStrewn that I didn't think the boat would be in the water racing next year with the list of items still not built or sourced.

Yes - I know Kevin is a sailmaker. Yes - I have met kevin before. Yes - Kevin is only working part time along with the two retired engineers from Electric Boat who are working on the boat

Speaking of how long it takes to build a boat, how is your 20ft coming? Done yet? :-)

Please don't put words in my mouth Jim :-)

Kevin - Keep up the good work!

How are the Russian GP-26 boats being built so quickly? A design that doesn't keep changing? Lower quality? Full time workers?


Both Windseeker and I interpreted your comment "I don't think you will see Farrar's boat on the water for another 3-4 yrs....", as a fairly plain way of saying Kevin's taking a really long time to build his boat.


Even with help, building a boat in your free time takes a lot of time.

My boat project has taken second place to a much bigger and more important project, so it has to wait . . .

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#276 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 04:10 PM

Believe it or not, we have not been letting to much grass grow around here. Here are a few shots since the last post.

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#277 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 10:37 PM

This afternoon we took another step forward. With the strings shaved off its amazingly fair. Tomorrow we will start knocking the epoxy off the foam joins. The strong back and hull mold has moved to it's new home and the deck mold will follow soon.
Kevin

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#278 timber

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 11:13 PM

Very nice, Kevin.

#279 Savage 17

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 11:54 PM

Looking good Kevin!!!! Keep up the good work :)

#280 Winchgrinder69

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 01:30 AM

Tis a thing of beauty , and a joy to behold......a glance at a boat that will change the perception of sport boats...it even has 4 ( count them ) berths ! Lots of cockpit area, and an amazing polar chart ! Winchgrinder69

#281 Jim Donovan

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 03:15 AM

Thanks for posting some photos to let us all know what you've been up to.
Looks like the roll over went w/o any issues - boat looks really good

#282 Ryley

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 01:19 PM

Kevin, when you say the molds went to their 'new home,' does that mean there's another build pending?

#283 Prova

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 01:46 PM

Congrats Kevin! You enlarged your shop! Brilliant Idea!

#284 StayinStrewn

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 02:11 PM

what are next steps?

#285 Heriberto

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 07:58 PM

That's awesome Kevin!

#286 psyklik

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 10:58 AM

This afternoon we took another step forward. With the strings shaved off its amazingly fair. Tomorrow we will start knocking the epoxy off the foam joins. The strong back and hull mold has moved to it's new home and the deck mold will follow soon.
Kevin



Looking good Kevin. Will stop by for a look soon.
~psyklik

#287 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 12:01 AM

With the exception of knocking the sharp edges off the chines, so the glass will bend around, the fairing of the bottom (pre-glass) is done. Earlier today I cut long strips of a dacron material we sometimes use at the loft on the Gerber xy plotter/cutter. Tonight I started laying these strips out along the hull surface which began the patterning for the e-glass cloth layout of the hull bottom. Once the patterning is complete the unidirectional cloth will be cut to these patterns. We have already laminated the keel and rudder reinforcement. A fresh shipment of vacuum bagging supplies is due in tomorrow and with luck the lamination with be done on Sunday.
Kevin



#288 williwaw

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 07:15 AM

I maybe late in this thread but is your boat the same design as the one in Turkey?

#289 Ryley

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 01:24 PM

I maybe late in this thread but is your boat the same design as the one in Turkey?

yes. Kevin started his hull first. It's an impressive build.

#290 Slappy

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 11:31 PM

Looking good Kevin, keep up the good work.

#291 Ryley

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 01:14 PM

I'm sure Kevin will be along eventually with pictures and his own update, but yesterday saw some amazing progress on the hull, with a cast of thousands getting the bottom skins laminated and bagged. I got there around 10, and the bag was on and working its magic by around 4:30. Not bad, considering the layup. It was great to meet so many of the players in this build - Kevin's got a good, knowledgeable crew and I'm just glad I could learn a thing or two. The bag for the bottom was a pretty impressive piece of engineering in its own right.

I wonder who's going to win the "hull weight" pool...

#292 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:21 PM

It's a boat. As mentioned in the post above yesterday was the culmination of a very busy week. Making patterns, cutting glass and bag preparation -- just a ton of work. The tedious work of patterning each piece was well worth the effort because the lay-up went smoothly and when I took the bag off the hull this morning it was really close to prefect.
I greatly appreciate the help of the friends who made it possible. Thank you Peter, Ed, Walter, Jon, Stu, Charlie, Lisa, Ron, Lance, Brian and Linda who brought the beer.
Kevin

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#293 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:29 PM

a real image

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#294 Ryley

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:33 PM

a real image

We need a full-size "after" shot too - glad it looks as good unbagged as we hoped it would!

#295 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:34 PM

and another

and another

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#296 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:36 PM

still more

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#297 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:40 PM

This morning after removing the bag and peel ply. Tomorrow I will wrap cloth around the lower portion of the stem then cover the hull with micro-balloons.
Kevin

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#298 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 08:08 PM

Shortly after the beer began to flow.

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#299 Kevin Farrar

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:47 PM

How could I have forgotten our mixologist Tom. Tom mixed the countless pails of resin while reminding us all not to make the laminate to wet. He also kept the running total resin usage weight.
Kevin

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#300 Jim Donovan

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 12:01 AM

This morning after removing the bag and peel ply. Tomorrow I will wrap cloth around the lower portion of the stem then cover the hull with micro-balloons.
Kevin

Looks good Kevin!

Pretty soon you'll be this:






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