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Member Since 08 Mar 2006
Offline Last Active Today, 04:37 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: J/88

Yesterday, 07:08 AM

According to the mythical FP, that was a very light air race, so the 88 ought to have an advantage over the 109 and 105 in those conditions...


One of the challenges of a single number system.  88 should do well in the light or when it can plane, so 69 ish maybe not too far off...but in more moderate breezes, where waterline matters, and the 88 can't plane, 84ish seems not to far off...

In Topic: Deck core work

26 July 2014 - 01:24 AM

I know the same way you know :)

Agree that wet in the end leads to bigger problems later...just meant it's not an "emergency"

In Topic: Deck core work

25 July 2014 - 04:23 PM

Actually, wet balsa retains most of its strength. So if the core is "just" wet, but is still bonded to the skins, it doesn't "need" to be fixed, at least not right away. If it's started to rot, or there's a delam, then you "should" repair it. But just wet is, in reality, plenty strong...

In Topic: Deck core work

24 July 2014 - 07:19 PM

So Gouv is right. Having bought a mid 80s boat with a known wet deck 5 years ago, I started with the plan to sail it for awhile and see...by end of the first season the top skin of the deck by the mast partners cracked and that winter the foredeck cracked. I recorded the foredeck, and most of the cabin top including the partners myself from the top as deck was craked anyway. Took 16 months of on again/off again weekend work. Missed a entire racing season. Spend ~ $2.5-3k when all was said and done. Did a very nice job for an amateur. Not as good as a good pro would have done. Also bought a sail, some halyards did the bottom 2x, had the hull buffed and polished, fixed hatches and deck gear, etc. probably put 7 grand into it overall in those 5 years not counting routine operating costs. It was in nice shape when I was done and getting better. Sold it for 3k less then I bought it.

So overall investment was 10k over 5 years. Cost to me was 2k/year (plus operating expenses) for 4 great years of racing the boat. For me, that was worth it. YMMV :)

In Topic: The hull job

24 July 2014 - 03:36 PM

Fast, while I agree with you, I think with Ajax, we are talking more about where to prioritize his (limited) resources (time, effort, $) to maximize his gains. I suspect his P30 has many areas still to optimize - crew work, deck layout, sails, gear and bottom - and the question for him is what to "fix" first.

Having raced against him on another boat, followed his progress here on SA, raced my last boat with moderate success on the "smooth but not faired & painted with Micron CSC" approach in PHRF B on the Chesapeake Bay, and most recently done bow on another largely original P30 during this years SBRW, I think a full on bottom job will use up resources that would be better "spent" in other places...

For where you are in you continuing quest to improve, I'd go with the suggestions of most here and make it smooth by getting rid of all the old paint (sand or blast) then fill any nicks, cracks, craters so they are smooth, then barrier coat & roll with a very smooth roller.

Then, based on my recent SBRW experience, take a hard look at ways to optimize you deck layout and sail handling gear and controls. What was state of the art racer cruiser in the early 70s is hopeless now on anything short of a long distance race. It's slow, cumbersome, and hard to do anything, and as a result you lose time all around the course... The design of the deck doesn't help, but there is room for huge improvement by mimicking today's deck layouts as much as possible with used gear from places like Bacons and EBay. I know you done some of that already, but I'd bet there's a bunch of room still left for improvement...