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sailak

Member Since 21 Oct 2007
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: 3-D printing discontinued parts

29 September 2016 - 03:20 PM

 

Just to add:  I bought a $200 printer from monoprice that does a pretty darn good job keeping up with my $40,000 printer at work, and can print ABS just fine.  Yeah, it may be +/- 0.001" compared to the stratasys but for $200 I can't complain.  That and $16 for a spool of filament is the cost of entry. 

 

 

There ain't nothin' printed in plastic FDM that is +/- 0.001. Metal neither, at this stage. 

 

 

This would be comparing similar prints that were printed to some dimension that is a factor of nozzle width and distance per step of the axis. Actual variation from your drawings can be a lot more.  For example on the y-axis my $200 printer can increment somewhere around 0.004 inches at a time (as advertised 100 microns), and the nozzle itself is near 0.002 inches.  Those are conversions; the machine is native to metric.  It takes some care to make sure if you need precision that you work within the limits of the machine, meaning the resolution of the axis and width of the nozzle.  With some trial and error however I find the $200 machine easy to work with and quite capable of producing consistent parts that are very comparable to those made on the high end machine.  


In Topic: Volvo Penta 2003 temperature sensor

29 September 2016 - 03:02 PM

I had a hard time finding an after market equivalents on mine, also with the so called deluxe panel.  Did some research and found a power boat gauge cluster "Crownline" that had temp, oil and battery all on one and then found the appropriate senders-I think it was Autometer compatible stuff.  I had to tee off where the oil sender/switch combo was.  There isn't room to built a stack where the OE sender is, and you don't really want all that inertia on pipe threads.  The guy at NAPA introduced me to the 1/8" brake line they sell that you can form by hand, so I built a little bracket to hold a 1/8" pipe tee, mounted to the top of the engine and plumbed oil pressure up to it.  My senders had long ago malfunctioned and I had to disable to low oil pressure alarm.  It seemed like it was near impossible to find OE equivalent stuff; or was it the price?   My solution cost just around $100 and has been working great.


In Topic: 3-D printing discontinued parts

28 September 2016 - 04:14 AM

Just to add:  I bought a $200 printer from monoprice that does a pretty darn good job keeping up with my $40,000 printer at work, and can print ABS just fine.  Yeah, it may be +/- 0.001" compared to the stratasys but for $200 I can't complain.  That and $16 for a spool of filament is the cost of entry. 


In Topic: has anyone used one of these emergency bung things for real

01 September 2016 - 01:24 AM

I pulled my prop with the boat in the water and first put the forespar foam plug in, and then put a wood plug in a day or two later.  Both worked perfect on the packing gland with it's nice round 1" hole for whatever thats worth.  This was during maintenance, but a friend of mine lost his prop and shaft underway and I think used the wood plug to stop that very real and unplanned leak.


In Topic: How hot is your engine room?

21 August 2016 - 01:19 AM

I've heard the moonduster argument (that diesels suck so much air ventilation is pointless) many times, and while the numbers make a compelling argument my engine space runs 20-30 degrees cooler with an exhaust blower going.  I installed a remote thermometer at the top of the compartment.  On long durations, maybe 3 hours or more I'll kick on the blower.  Temps drop from over 100 to the high 70's.  An added benefit is the inevitable smell of warm oily surfaces, rubber, and bilge space is also blown overboard instead of permeating into the cabin space.